How to care for trees in the garden in autumn. Top Tips for Proper Garden Care in the Fall

No matter how much they say and write, warning about the mistakes of novice gardeners, nevertheless, some omissions happen. Apparently, the proverb is appropriate here: "The one who does nothing is not mistaken." As a result, individual trees may still be deeply planted, that is, with a root collar immersed in the ground. Such trees need to be raised. To do this, in the spring around the tree at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk, dig a small trench of the same depth and carefully lift it from both sides with shovels located under the plant. Underneath the raised plant, pour the earth in such a way that your seedling is at the right height.

If you find a tree planted too high, then add enough soil to root collar and the roots were not out. It happens to see a strongly inclined tree. In this case, you will carefully straighten it, giving it a vertical position with a rope tied to a stake firmly driven into the ground.

At the beginning of life, the roots of a fruit tree do not extend beyond the trunk circle. Then this circle expands annually by about 60-70 cm. In the second year, the width of the near-stem circle should be increased to 2 m. Then it is increased annually by at least half a meter.

Since trees in young gardens do not fully use the area allotted to them in the first years, it is necessary to plant vegetables and potatoes between the rows. The aisles of apple trees can be used up to about 15 years, and the aisles of, say, cherries and plums - half as much. A wide variety of crops are planted, such as cucumbers, pumpkins, potatoes, tomatoes, beets, carrots, parsley, rutabagas, onions and turnips. Especially useful are peas, beans and beans. Being leguminous plants They enrich the soil with nitrogen.

About two misses. In the aisles, you can also plant strawberries for 4-5 years, currants and gooseberries for 12-15 years. In no case do not occupy the aisles with grain and corn. This will harm fruit crops. Do not make another mistake, which, unfortunately, takes place - do not occupy tree trunks for any culture.

Trunk circle processing

As already mentioned, the trunk circles gradually expand, reaching 3 meters or more in the tenth year. Keep the soil on the trunk circles clean and loose. In the fall, you need to dig the earth. On the trunk circles of apple and pear trees - deeper (up to 18-20 cm), and on the trunk circles of cherries, plums - smaller (up to 15 cm), since the roots of stone fruits are located close to the surface. Dig up the soil like this. At first, at a distance from the tree, deeper, and as you move towards the trunk - very shallow. Hold the shovel so as not to cut the roots, edge to the tree. And best of all, dig with a garden pitchfork.

In early spring, as soon as the opportunity arises, again, only smaller, dig up the soil that has compacted during the winter or loosen it with a hoe to a depth of 6-8 cm. For the period from spring to the first half of summer, carry out such processing (in the central region of the Non-Chernozem strip) 3-4 times.

It is very useful, especially in dry years, to mulch the soil between the rows, that is, to cover it with humus, peat, straw manure, rotten straw, with a small, 5-8 cm layer. Just don't lay the mulch directly against the trunk, back off 10 cm. There are two common mistakes gardeners need to make here. The first is the use of fallen leaves for mulching. You can't do this. The second mistake is using a dark synthetic film as mulch. We believe that this should not be done either, since it creates too favorable conditions for rodents that cause great damage to trees. Mulch the soil in spring, immediately after the first loosening. If you are dealing with straw, then it must be lightly crushed with earth so that the wind does not blow away. Mulched near-trunk circles do not loosen, but only regularly remove weeds on them. In autumn, during the main digging, manure and peat are incorporated into the soil as fertilizer, and it is better to put straw and other dry materials in a compost heap.

Watering

In the first years after planting, fruit trees need watering. Even brief dry spells can be detrimental to young trees. In Moscow and nearby regions, it is watered three to four times. Watering should be plentiful. To do this, pour 2-3 buckets of water under one planted tree. For older trees, the rate increases. On average, it is necessary to pour 1-2 buckets per 1 m 2 of the trunk circle.

The main amount of water should fall under the very crown of the tree. To do this, along the borders of the crown, it is recommended to make compacted rollers from the ground. After watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil.

Fertilizer

In order for fruit trees to grow and develop well, and then bear fruit, fertilizers must be applied regularly.

It is best to fertilize the garden with manure, compost, peat and peat feces. These organic fertilizers, along with the fact that they provide the plants with the necessary nutrients, also restore and improve the structure of the soil, which is destroyed during its cultivation.

It is better to apply manure from the fall at the rate of a bucket per 1 m 2 of the trunk circle. This is perhaps the best soil fertilization of all. But gardeners everywhere experience difficulties in purchasing manure, and therefore relying only on this type of organic fertilizer would be a mistake.

Yet more experienced gardeners find a way out. They prepare compost on their plot, which has a good effect on fruit trees. For the preparation of compost, woody leaves, tops of potatoes and vegetable crops, weeds, leaves and mustaches of strawberries removed during processing, rotten straw and chaff, house rubbish and kitchen waste are used.

The compost heap is placed on a cleared area approximately 1.5-2 m wide at the base at the bottom, 1-1.5 m high and of arbitrary length. Bookmarking is carried out from early spring, when the first material appears in the form of old leaves from a strawberry patch, and ending late autumn when cabbage leaves are put into the compost. Compost, in order to rot, must be periodically watered with water, and even better with slops, slurry. Add to a pile of ash or lime. It would be nice to shovel the compost heap to the very foundation twice during the summer. By shoveling, we accelerate the decomposition of waste. Compost is ready after 2 years. Most often, gardeners lay not one, but two piles. Then they have a usable, well-decomposed compost from year to year.

In garden plots, it happens that feces are used for fertilizer. They are best used in the form of peat feces, that is, peat mixed and aged for 2 years with feces. Peat feces can be prepared separately by spreading fine peat in a layer of 15-20 cm, and pouring plenty of liquid feces on it. It is easier to cook peat feces directly in the restroom, periodically pouring portions of fine, well-decomposed peat into it. Then the toilet is cleaned and the resulting mixture is placed nearby in a pile, which is kept for decomposition for 2 years.

Bird droppings can also be used to fertilize the garden, especially since it is now widely offered by local poultry farms. In addition, many gardeners, not to mention the villagers permanently residing in the villages, keep the bird in their backyards.

Bird droppings in dry form should be made at the rate of 120-150 g per 1 m 2 of the trunk circle.

An excellent fertilizer is stove wood ash, which contains potassium, phosphorus and lime. Ash is consumed approximately one glass (120 g) per 1 m 2.
Mineral fertilizers are very useful for fruit trees. Of the main fertilizers, the most common ammonium nitrate(nitrogen), superphosphate (phosphoric) and potassium chloride (potassium).

Doses of fertilizers are different, they depend mainly on the age of the trees. Below we give the average rates of fertilization in the near-stem circles per tree (established by scientists and practice).

Note to gardeners: one glass contains ash 120-125 g, ammonium nitrate - 200 g, superphosphate - 150 g and potassium salt - 250 g.
Apply potash and phosphorus fertilizers in the fall, for deep digging, and nitrogen fertilizers in the spring, during the first loosening. With the joint introduction of mineral and organic fertilizers(manure, compost, feces), their application doses are halved against those given above.

Not everyone who has been gardening for more than a year knows that when mixing mineral fertilizers, care must be taken; it is impossible, for example, to mix them with nitrogen fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate can be mixed with superphosphate, but shortly before they are introduced into the soil. Do not mix superphosphate with lime. Any mixing with potassium chloride is permissible only before the very introduction.

Very effective fertilizing fruit trees. First of all, use solutions of bird droppings and mullein, feces, slurry and urine. Dilute slurry and animal urine for liquid feeding with 4-5 parts of water, and bird droppings and feces with 10 parts.

Mineral fertilizers are also suitable for top dressing. If the weather is dry, then before fertilizing, pour water on the tree trunks.
How much do you need to put in? Divide those norms that were previously named by the number of top dressings, say, into shares. Give the first top dressing in the spring, when the buds are just blooming, the second - 20 days after the first, and the third - three weeks after the second.

A big mistake is made by those gardeners who, having properly processed fruit trees in early spring, believe that then little, “cosmetic” care is required for the apple tree.
In fact, it is necessary all summer not only to keep the soil under the crowns clean from weeds, but also to take measures to prevent pests and diseases from entering the garden, but also to supply fruit trees in a timely manner and in the proper quantity and quality. nutrients. To do this, you should regularly feed the plants with mineral, and, if possible, organic fertilizers. Fruit buds at apple trees begin to form in late July - early August, that is, the gardener should already be preparing at this time the base for next year's harvest.

Fertilize the garden regularly. True, in the first year you can limit yourself to one mulching. In other years, it is desirable to apply mineral fertilizers at least once every two years.
If soil analysis shows that your soil is acidic, add lime. It must be applied every 7 years, scattering 0.5 kg per 1 m 2 of the near-trunk circle. Apply lime only in the fall.

Pruning young trees

From how you carry out the formation of fruit trees, their productivity and longevity largely depend. Crown formation is achieved by creating a strong tree skeleton, a strong trunk (stem) and well-developed, correctly, evenly spaced and tightly connected main branches with the stem.

If you planted an annual seedling of an apple or pear tree, then it needs to be shortened. Such pruning will promote the growth of lateral buds and the appearance of strong branches, from which the skeleton of the tree will subsequently form. Annual plum and cherry trees usually have a well-developed crown and therefore do not need pruning.

If you planted two-year-old apple and pear seedlings on seed stocks, then spend the first year light pruning. Remove dry, broken branches. If there are more than six branches in the crown and they are well developed, then transfer the extra ones to a horizontal position. Do this by garter or hang a small load on the 7th, 8th, etc. branches, and then it will take a drooping position. In subsequent years, this will contribute to the formation of darlings on these branches, and, consequently, fruits.

They treat seedlings on dwarf rootstocks somewhat differently. If they have a well-developed root system, then after planting, make an emerging pruning, in which the conductor should be 18-20 cm higher than the side branches. At the same time, transfer all branches that will not be used as future skeletal ones to an inclined position.

It happens, often in a three-year-old or older seedling different reasons the crown died, and a new strong shoot appeared from the trunk, then in the spring cut off the entire dead crown and form a new one due to the young shoot that appeared.

In trees 3-5 years old, cutting and shortening are carried out very small. Do this only when you notice that you need to fill the skeletal branch with overgrown branches harder or change the direction of its growth. When strong annual branches are formed during this period, they are transferred, tied up, to a horizontal position or simply intertwined.
Pruning must be carried out so that the ends of the main skeletal branches are at the same level. Semi-skeletal in the middle of the crown needs to be thinned out a little. In a word, the crown of the tree after your pruning should have open center where sunlight and air can easily penetrate. On it, over time, a crop of fruits will ripen evenly throughout the tree, without creating unbearable weight on any branch. This, to put it briefly, is the essence of all pruning and shaping the crown of trees. To the same gardeners who have not yet mastered the technique of this rather complicated matter, let's say: cut the branches of trees only when you understand well what needs to be done. Without a justified need, do not take the pruner in your hands, give the plant the opportunity to grow and develop in its natural form.

The main condition for maintaining the health of fruit trees and obtaining a plentiful and stable harvest is proper planting care. Garden care includes a whole range of activities that should be carried out throughout the year.

In our article you will find a detailed calendar of garden care by months and find out what measures should be taken to preserve the fertility of trees.

How to take care of your garden

A well-groomed garden that gives a rich harvest is the result of the gardener's considerable efforts and his strong knowledge of the peculiarities of plant care. After all, plant a plot fruit trees and shrubs - this is just the beginning of cultivation.

The main focus is on aftercare, consisting of different kind seasonal work. Exist general recommendations who are comprehensive garden care.

Professional gardeners know that a young garden needs extra care. So, during the first year after its planting, only in the spring summer period you need to carry out at least 4 loosening of the soil around the trees, weeding out the weeds in parallel.

Planted plants need regular watering, while spending 3-4 buckets of water. It would be logical after watering to loosen and mulch the tree trunks. With the onset of autumn, they must be dug up, turning the earth well. This procedure leads to the death of pests wintering in the soil.

Note: In the spring, after the snow melts and the soil dries up, the trunk circles must be loosened. If the soil around the trees is too compacted, it must be dug up again, weeds removed and mulched.

You should be aware that the growth and development of garden plants depend on the optimal level of soil moisture during growing season. For example, with excessive moisture, the growth of trees slows down, and they may even die. Especially this danger increases from the second half of summer, therefore it is at this time that it is necessary to stop watering. You can resume them only during the period of mass leaf fall.

Here are some professional advice to help you learn how to take care of your orchard(picture 1):

1. The diameter of the trunk circles of a young tree in the first two or three years should be from 1.5 to 2.5 meters. Every year the diameter increases, and when the tree reaches the age of 6 years, it is 3 meters. Further, this distance remains unchanged.
2. In early autumn, the depth of digging the soil directly at the trunk is 5-6 cm, on the periphery - 15 cm.
3. In order not to damage the roots when digging, it is necessary to place the blade of the shovel with an edge to the tree.
4. To determine if watering is necessary, you can dig holes up to half a meter deep throughout the garden near the trees. Taking a handful of soil from the hole, pay attention to whether the lump can retain its shape after unclenching the hand. If the soil crumbles, it is necessary to start watering.
5. Leaves wilted at noon will also serve as a signal of a lack of moisture.
6. Watering trees is carried out in near-stem circles at the rate of 4-6 buckets of water per 1 sq.m.

Figure 1. The main activities for the care of the garden

The first watering of the garden can be carried out approximately 2-3 weeks after the end of flowering. The second follows 20 days after the first. Stone fruit trees are watered a second time two weeks before fruit harvest. After harvest, they are watered only when necessary, for example, during a severe drought.

Note: Trunk circles are not recommended to be laid with turf.

Treatment of trees with insecticides can be carried out 10 days after flowering. in addition, after the snow melts, it is necessary to treat the trunks of fruit trees with lime mortar.

Autumn cleaning in the garden should be mandatory. Shrunken, rotten fruits should be removed, fallen or cut branches should be burned.

Spring is not only the time of awakening and renewal of wildlife, but also the hottest time for the gardener. After all, the future harvest directly depends on spring care behind the garden. Many of these works need to be done before the awakening of the trees and the start of sap flow in them (Figure 2). How to take care of the garden in spring? Let's describe it in general terms.

Figure 2. The main stages of spring garden care

To begin with, it is necessary to inspect young fruit trees and seedlings in order to identify possible cracks, damage by rodents, frost holes on the bark. Found cracks must be bandaged plastic wrap. If during the examination tinder fungi were noticed, then they must be removed, and the wounds on the bark should be treated garden pitch(2 parts clay, 1 part mullein, finely chopped straw or hay).

Note: Some plants could die during the winter: outwardly they look dried up, and buds do not develop on them. When examining tree trunks, pay attention to whether hollows or traces of dangerous diseases have appeared in them.

Particular attention should be paid to examining the crowns of young apple trees, since it is on the dry leaves hanging on the cobwebs that you can find the clutches of the ringed silkworm. Such last year's leaves are removed with sticks.

If conifers grow in the garden, it is necessary to prepare shading shields or crown shelters for them. Trunks of fruit trees must be whitewashed with lime mortar.

Whitewash

Gardeners are well aware that fungi and lichens, as well as various types of tree pests and their eggs, settle on the bark of trees. Therefore, tree trunks must be carefully cleaned of growths and whitened with a solution of lime (2.5 kg per bucket of water) or treated with a special paste.

Whitewash functions:

• Protection of the bark from direct sunlight;
• Protection from pests wintering in the bark;
• Repelling rodents in the presence of aromatic substances in the composition of the whitewash.

spraying trees

One of major events held in the garden in the spring is the spraying of plants with insecticides. These substances help in the fight against various diseases (scab, black cancer) and pests (caterpillars, codling moths, spider mites). You should know that such processing can be carried out only before the onset of flowering.

All subsequent sprayings are carried out only for preventive purposes and to increase the protective functions of plants with specially developed preparations.

You will find more information about garden care in spring in the video.

tree nutrition

Behind winter period plants use their supply of nutrients, and therefore they need top dressing. At the same time, fertilizers are selected taking into account individual features each culture (age, variety, condition, place of growth).

Top dressing can be carried out both basal and foliar. So, organic fertilizers in the form of rotted manure, bird droppings, compost, green manure infusion are applied to tree trunks, digging them along with the ground. Mineral fertilizers are applied in a similar way.

When foliar top dressing, nutrients are sprayed onto the crowns of trees by spraying them. For example, stone fruit trees, as well as apple and pear trees, are sprayed with a solution of carbamide (urea) of various dosages.

With the onset of summer, weeds begin their rapid development. Therefore, for a full supply of nutrients and moisture to the plants, it is necessary to weed the near-stem circles and areas around the bushes already in June (Figure 3). Weeded weeds can be integral part composts.

Figure 3. How to care for the garden in summer: mulching, removing weeds and watering

If you are going to mulch the soil, set aside weeds with roots and flowers. It is better to use them to prepare an infusion of herbs, which will also be useful for garden plants. And to cover the soil in near-stem circles, use mowed grass or sawdust, as well as peat, manure, humus, and even synthetic film. When using film as a mulching material, more attention should be paid to watering plants.

Note: If the soil is not covered with mulch, then weeding is combined with loosening, thereby not only freeing the soil from weeds, but also improving air access to the root system. As a result of loosening, the habitats of pests in the soil are also destroyed. It is important to know that starting from August, loosening cannot be carried out, since it prevents the preparation of trees for winter, and also prevents young shoots from ripening.

Before the beginning of fruit ripening, it is necessary to carry out weeding, loosening and watering the plants. So, the irrigation rate for a pear is 3-4 buckets, for an apple tree - 4-5 buckets, for stone fruits - 2-3 buckets per 1 sq.m. circumferential circle. Watering should be such that the soil is saturated to a depth of 40-80 cm. As for berry bushes, then they are watered less often, but more abundantly than trees (2-3 buckets per bush), and in case of drought, the rate is doubled.

In summer, when there is an intensive growth of shoots, it is necessary to ensure that they do not grow inside the crown. Such shoots must either be cut or broken out without causing significant harm to the plant. To weaken the growth of extra strong annual branches, they must be bent and tied up.

In addition, in early June, there is an increased growth of root shoots. It can only be removed by digging, since cutting with pruners only enhances growth.

If it is planned bountiful harvest, take care of props for branches in advance. If the branch, under the weight of the fruit, still could not resist and broke, it must be separated from the tree, and the cut should be smeared with garden pitch, or a mixture of mullein with clay, and then tied with a dark film.

In August, the trees begin to prepare for winter. During this period, it is no longer possible to apply nitrogen fertilizers, water and loosen the soil, so as not to stimulate the growth process. If young shoots continue to grow in young plants, they must be pinched.

The author of the video will tell you all the necessary information about summer care behind the trees.

Protection against diseases and pests

One of the most important activities for the care of the garden is the examination of plants in order to identify various diseases and pests, as well as their control.

Note: This must be done before the plants bloom, since during flowering fruit trees cannot be treated with pesticides so as not to burn the flowers and cause the death of pollinating insects.

After examining your garden, draw up a clear plan of plant protection measures, separately for each group of fruit and berry plantations. So you can achieve maximum effect with a minimum number of treatments.

You can fight pests and diseases both with the help of special toxic preparations, and manually (mechanically). Often, mechanical control measures are sufficient to control pests. For example, removing and destroying the nests of spiders, at the same time they fight the caterpillars of the ringed silkworm, apple moth and multicolor.

Get to work when the snow is just starting to melt:

It happens that mechanical means the struggle is not enough, then they resort to the help of special chemical mixtures, or aqueous solutions with the addition various substances(copper and iron vitriol, Bordeaux mixture, urea, soda ash, etc.). Ready-made products are used according to the instructions, and those prepared with one's own hand are stirred until a uniform consistency is obtained so as not to burn the trees.

Remember that in order to control adult insects, spraying must be carried out before flowering, and to destroy their larvae, after the end (Figure 4). Do not forget about personal protective equipment: gloves, goggles, a hat and a respirator.

top dressing

Summer top dressing of garden plants is carried out in order to saturate the missing trace elements. In the summer season, foliar top dressing by crown spraying is more rational, since the leaves absorb nutrients much faster than the roots.

The most simple and balanced is the feeding of nitroammophos. It is a mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and sulfur. Great for fertile soils. On soils of a different type (clay, heavy), a whole range of fertilizers should be used, based on a number of individual characteristics of each plant.

Very often, urea is used for foliar feeding. It contributes to the saturation of plants with nitrogen and destroys many pests. In August, top dressing is carried out with diluted karbofos, which combines the qualities of a fungicide and an insecticide. In addition, it is practically harmless to humans. And yet, remember that if the concentration of the active substance in the water exceeds certain standards, then instead of the expected positive result plants can be harmed.

The autumn activities in the garden are similar to the spring ones, but they are held in reverse order. That is, first they harvest, and then whitewash the trees.

Figure 5. The main measures for caring for trees in the garden in autumn

Before whitewashing, tree trunks are again cleaned of old bark, wounds and cracks are smeared with garden pitch and whitewashed (Figure 5).

Fertilizer

In October, root top dressing is carried out with the introduction of mineral fertilizers (except nitrogen) into the circumferential circles. Such feeding is obligatory view work in the autumn garden.

pruning

Another mandatory event in the fall is pruning trees to remove damaged shoots and diseased branches. All collected garbage (branches, leaves, spoiled fruits) must be taken out of the garden and burned.

Preparing for winter

Preparation for winter consists in wrapping tree trunks with roofing felt or roofing material. As a latch, you can use both an ordinary rope and barbed wire, which will serve as additional protection against hares and beavers in winter time. Poison baits will help fight mice.

Whitewashing of the bark will serve as additional protection. Since it has a bitter taste, it will be unattractive to rodents. In addition, with the advent of spring, white trunks will serve as a kind of mirror that reflects direct sunlight and prevents the formation of burns. Thus, already at the exit from the dormant state, the tree will be protected.

You will find tips on preparing the garden for winter in the video.

Since the plants are dormant in winter, garden care consists of regular inspections to detect rodents and laying out baits for them (Figure 6).

Protection

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to create conditions so that the trees can survive severe frosts and rodent invasions in the winter. Therefore, it is necessary to start work in the fall, having built protective devices for the bark (various fences, wrapping the trunk with barbed wire, "scarecrows").

Rodents should be fought with the help of special poisonous baits that are laid out around the plants. In this case, care should be taken that the birds do not have access to them. To do this, baits can be covered with boards or branches.

Figure 6. Winter care for fruit trees in the garden

Frost can also do a lot of harm. To protect the plants from their influence, it is enough to wrap the trunks with roofing material or roofing felt, using a layer of ordinary burlap as a gasket between the bark and the wrapping material. So you protect your garden not only from frost, but also from burns from direct sunlight.

Root and bark care

In February, you can warm the roots with snow. For this small slide snow is poured near the trunk warmed in autumn and compacted with feet. This simple method will prevent the trees from freezing and help retain moisture.

Shaking off the snow

In winter, it is necessary to regularly monitor the amount of snow on the branches and shake it off, because when it melts it becomes heavier and can break young shoots.

The same activities are carried out during a sharp cold snap or thaw. Branches covered with a crust of ice break easily, and the tree can be seriously damaged.

garden care tools

Most often, the following tools are used to care for the garden (Figure 7):

• Various types of shovels: bayonet, shovel and snowplow;
• Rakes, choppers, baking powder;
• Secateurs and loppers, saws and garden shears;
• Hoses and accessories for spraying;
• Technical means: trolley, lawn mower, chainsaw, cultivator, brush cutter, etc.).

Figure 7. Garden tools

All these tools must be included in the gardener's arsenal without fail. But for beginners, you can buy inventory gradually, purchasing tools for the season.

Garden and garden care products

Means for the care of the garden and garden are divided into several groups. garden var and mortar used to treat bark and cracks on the trunk and branches. Various types of fertilizers (organic, mineral, complex) are used to strengthen plants, increase fruiting and accelerate the growth of trees.

Also, the list of necessary garden care products includes drugs against diseases and pests: fungicides, insecticides, various home-made tinctures.

The volume and quality of the next year's harvest directly depend on the correctness and timeliness of the work carried out in the fall to care for fruit trees. Measures to protect them from pests, diseases, fertilizing, digging and moistening the soil in the garden are extremely important work pruning should be done on time - this will make it easier for the trees to enter the winter and help it survive without loss.

The importance of autumn care

Carried out in the correct order, the activities for the autumn care of fruit trees after the end of the harvest help to increase their winter hardiness, that is, the ability not to suffer from any weather disasters - severe frosts, sharp thaws, and most importantly - the alternation of both.

Strengthen the immunity of plants, reduce the volume of branches, protect against pests, diseases, so bring nutrients in the fall so that trees and shrubs, waking up in the spring, could immediately use them - all these works must be carried out in a fairly short time.

Skipping any of the stages is fraught not only with catching up in the spring, but with a lack of harvest or even the death of the entire plant.

Fall garden plan

Proper garden care autumn period begins in September and should end about half a month before the arrival of frost. In order to have time to carry out all the work on time, it is convenient to take care of the trees in the fall according to a plan adjusted according to the weather forecast in a particular area. The main stages of activity are as follows:

• they remove the trapping belts, clean them and destroy pests, remove carrion from the ground;
• approximately in the second month of autumn, as cold and rainy weather approaches, young seedlings are planted;
• fruit-bearing trees are pruned - if the crop is already harvested, the sap flow is slowed down and the plants are getting ready for bed;
• whitewash the trunks and bases of large branches;
• trunks, branches are processed from insects hiding in them for the winter, fungal diseases and rot are prevented;
• carry out the collection and burning of foliage and cut branches;
• they dig up the ground near the berry bushes and in the near-stem circles of trees, make up the feed in the form of fertilizers;
• if necessary, trees are insulated and protected from small and large rodents (this is especially true for young seedlings).

Sanitary pruning

The main way to regulate the yield of fruit trees is their pruning. She heals the plant, does not allow it to run wild, directs it to the right direction branch growth and helps form a bountiful harvest. The main burden of pruning fruit trees falls on gardeners in the spring, when the frosts have already ended, but the vegetation has not yet begun. In autumn, sanitary pruning is carried out: after a careful examination, broken, dried branches are removed - they are especially liked harmful insects. They also cut out shoots that greatly interfere with others, weak and interbreeding.

Tops are destroyed - fattening, with large leaves and weak buds. They usually grow from dormant buds on skeletal old branches. The fruits on the spinning tops are not tied, and they take away the strength from the tree, in parallel thickening the crown. The provoking factor for the appearance a large number spinning tops is overfeeding the tree with nitrogen and watering too much.

Having got rid of the excess, unproductive load, the plant directs more energy to prepare for the winter cold.

Preventive treatment for diseases

autumn care includes spraying the trunk and branches with medicinal substances. In particular, treatment with copper preparations, solutions iron sulphate and Bordeaux liquid, as well as modern fungicides - Kuproksat, Horus, Topsin - allows you to prophylactically protect fruit trees from coccomycosis and other types of spotting.

Treatment with Impact, Strobi, Skor helps to suppress possible foci of scab and rot. Since any wounds, hollows and cracks on the bark of plants are open gates for infection, they must be treated with a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate and covered with cement.

In addition, many insects lay their larvae in the autumn in the bark of fruit trees. This is how the offspring of the apple moth, the ringed silkworm, hope to survive the winter. Dry sheets, as if glued to the branches with a thin cobweb, are a refuge for the caterpillars of the golden tail, the hawthorn. These are just a few of the extensive list of orchard pests. To protect plantings from them, after harvesting carrion, fallen leaves and debris, they clean the trunks and, as far as possible, branches from dead bark with iron brushes. Then all the trees are treated with some of the well-established insecticides - a three- or five-percent solution of urea, Fury, Agravertini, Bulldock preparations (they are especially effective against aphids, silkworms, leafworms and lungworts).

Trunk whitewashing

This is important factor autumn care for fruit trees. Lime treatment of the bark serves as protection for plants against:

• winter temperature drops, when during the day the bark in the sun heats up, and at night it is affected very coldy,
• spring burns, when it is not yet covered with foliage;
• harmful insects laying their larvae for the winter;
• a number of fungal diseases.

The solution for whitewashing should be thick enough, saturated. They cover the trunk and, if possible, the bases of the skeletal branches.

Composition options:

• at home cooking 2 kg of lime is combined with 400 g of copper sulfate. Dissolve in a bucket of water and put in the same kilogram of clay and cow dung. For viscosity, some gardeners add a paste to this mixture, but it cannot be used for young seedlings - the sticky mixture will prevent the tender bark from breathing;
• for young trees, the lime in this cocktail is replaced with chalk;
• purchased mixtures are divided into simple ones - from clay and lime, which are quickly washed off by precipitation, and special paints, which stay on the trunks for a long time and contain special antiseptics for diseases.

Autumn top dressing

It is very important to carry out this procedure correctly. Autumn fertilization is considered more significant than spring and summer: the frost resistance of trees, especially those recently planted, is enhanced, their immunity and fruiting strength are strengthened.

Root top dressing is added when digging the ground near the trunk circles. Humus and mineral fertilizers are applied:

• humus by spring it will overheat, and waking up, the plant will receive the nitrogen supplement it needs. For trees less than 8 years old, 30 kg of substance is enough, for adults - about 50 kg;
• phosphorus- sparingly soluble in water, inactive substance. Scattering superphosphate over the soil surface is useless for plants. It is best to bring it into the holes around the trunk along the projection of the crown to a depth of about 30 cm. A handful of fertilizer is placed in each hole, water is added and instilled;
• potassium sulfate- the best potash top dressing, since it does not contain chlorine harmful to plantings. The addition rate is 5-10 g per square meter.

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Humus

Simultaneous incorporation of potash and phosphorus compositions is preferable - this way their assimilation is more efficient. The best option for caring for trees in the fall is the purchase complex fertilizers and strict adherence to the instructions for use for different fruit crops.

Fertilizing plants with nitrogen is not carried out, since this element contributes to the activation of sap flow, which harms the winter hardiness of trees.

Features of caring for seedlings of fruit trees in the fall

After planting, young trees must be tied to a stake and the soil is mulched. The digging of the trunk circles is carried out carefully, to a depth of no more than 15 cm, so as not to damage root system.

The tender bark of young stands, attractive to hares and mice, is especially vulnerable in winter. Caring for tree seedlings involves its mandatory protection. To do this, many gardeners tie the stems with spruce branches with the needles down. If this is not possible, the best option is a purchased fine-mesh mesh. It is wrapped with boles, at the same time deepening it into the soil. Another unexpected material is obsolete synthetic tights and stockings.

In addition, to combat mice, you need to clean the garden from fallen leaves and branches after pruning in the fall.

In autumn, there is a lot of work to prepare the garden for winter, but in this way it will endure the frosty period without loss and accumulate strength for active flowering and abundant fruit.

Autumn is the time to take care of the condition personal plot and garden. Creation comfortable conditions overwintering for fruit trees is a top priority for gardeners. What does autumn garden maintenance include? In anticipation of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can proceed to sanitary pruning, thinning, crown reduction perennial trees up to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed anti-aging pruning until spring. Why? First, there are fears of the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, the places of cuts of perennial branches large diameter can become a source of frost damage even when treated with garden pitch or oil paint.

In the fall, a thorough inspection is carried out, dry, damaged branches are removed. Together with the removal of diseased, dry branches, they clean the trees of fruits dried on the branches, burn nests, egg-laying pests, cut out growths, remove leaf litter, root shoots, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

Protection of fruit trees from rodents

All this must be destroyed immediately. When sections are formed with a diameter of more than 2 cm, they are covered with garden pitch. The stems of young trees along the entire length are tied with a special non-woven material or other improvised means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with a deepening of the strapping material into the soil by 3-5 cm.

For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I begin to dig in - the ends of the bandage are dug in with earth, as if deepened.

To keep the bark from cracking

To prevent the appearance, frost crackers on the boles of fruit-bearing trees carry out their whitewashing, having previously cleaned the trunk.

Processing trees, shrubs, grapes

On stone fruits from diseases in autumn, treatment with copper preparations can be carried out, for example, and on pome breeds - with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be transferred to spring. Pass it over the swelling kidneys.

In the vineyard, plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy state. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera has been noticed, it is necessary in early spring, on swelling buds, treat with Preparation 30. Unripe shoots should be cut out in autumn. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, from autumn or early spring, the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid - this is one of the universal ones that has the longest duration of protective action.

Fruit tree nutrition

In late autumn, organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium products are added - superphosphate, potassium sulfate, others 6-9 g each active ingredient on 1m 2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep in the zone of near-stem circles of trees at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or for digging. On each square meter make one or two holes or wells.

For the orchard, the most importance have fertilizers of the prolonged action. The main ones are organic and organo-mineral fertilizers. Nutrients are released from them slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. The composition of organic fertilizers (manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of nutrients necessary for perennial fruit and berry plants, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their application affects the growth and yield of trees for 3-5 years, while the yield increases to 25 and even 50 percent.

The composition of organic-mineral fertilizers includes both organic (peat, humates, etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after the application of mixed fertilizers (organic and mineral) under a fruit-bearing apple tree (at a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available for a plant in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher than their content in unfertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that fertilizers applied locally during the autumn digging of the garden by 2/3 bayonet spades of fertilizer are localized in the application zone, creating nutrition centers within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants.

In addition, in areas of a garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used, when digging the soil, you can also notice that it has become looser and crumbles well. This means an improvement in its agrophysical properties.

When using fertilizers from autumn, it must be remembered that the introduction of fast-acting species can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the background of warm weather and sufficient moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter by low negative air temperatures.

For autumn garden soil dressing in late autumn (November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammofoska) are used, and in more early dates(October) you can apply ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). At the same time, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is crushed: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before the flowering of trees, intrasoil top dressing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers is used (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in the summer, the rest of the dose of nitrogen is added with irrigation water.

Fertilizing the soil in the fall helps build resilience fruit plants to adverse conditions the external environment, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how much nutrients they accumulate in the course of preparing for winter and to what extent these substances turn into protective ones. A prerequisite for a sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization of the nutritional regime of fruit plants, which allows for the dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged crop.

Watering the garden

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, you need to give plenty of water to the trees, shrubs with water - to make the plants easier to winter.

Do I need to dig trees in the fall?

After the leaves fall, that is, when the fruit trees, shrubs "sleep", their active life is stopped, they begin the main tillage in the garden - digging. Digging the soil in the garden is necessary to maintain the optimal fine-cloddy structure by mixing - upper layer soil (with a destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

Deep digging of the soil in autumn creates the conditions for the formation of a deep root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in autumn, especially in the young, should be up to 30 cm - on the bayonet of a shovel, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

The increase in the number of warm winters (especially the last two years) is also felt by the inhabitants of the Kuban. Despite belonging to the southern latitudes, the Kuban people were previously familiar with snowy frosty winters with an abundance of snow and frosts down to -15 and -25 ° C. With the onset of cold garden plants together entered into a state of deep rest for the entire winter period. Early February thaws affected mainly stone fruits (apricot, cherry plum, cherry, peach). Currently, warm winters contribute to a decrease in the winter hardiness of fruit crops in general. For the most common and sustainable crop in the Kuban - apple trees - the onset of stressful situations has become more frequent, contributing to a decrease in productivity. Stabilization of the situation provides for the hard work of gardeners in several stages.

First of all, it is important to take timely action on garden plot a complex of agrotechnical measures available to every amateur gardener in order to minimize possible Negative consequences warm winters. To do this, in the fall, with the beginning of leaf fall, carry out digging or deep loosening (to a depth of at least 12-15 cm), which will ensure moisture saturation not only of the upper soil layer, but also of deeper horizons, improve the structure and aeration of the root layer.

When writing, the materials of the newspaper "Niva Kuban" - 2014 - No. 39 were used.

The time after harvest in late August - early September is important for the gardener. During the period are being prepared garden trees and flowers for wintering, plantings are fertilized with nutrients. If you do not perform certain actions before the onset of the first cold weather, you can be left without good harvest. To do this, you need to know how to properly care for the garden in the fall.

Autumn work on the site

In order for the growth on the trees to adequately increase, and the soil for planting to be fertile, several things need to be done. Activities are carried out after the harvest, when the last foliage has flown around. Now the plant is starting to prepare for retirement.

So gardening in autumn months rich and important. Fruitful labor favorably affects the life of trees and plants. Timely implementation of measures allows you to get a larger harvest than in the previous year.

September is a very important month for any gardener. He is rich in urgent matters for cleaning gardens, orchards and fields. The main occupation is considered

• Collection of fruits, namely pears and apples. Timing is the key long storage fruits. To determine the readiness of apples, you need to conduct a small experiment. Pick a ripe-looking apple. Cut it in half with a knife, if the seeds are white or slightly brown in it, then the fruit is left on the branch. The recommended harvest time is the middle of the first month of autumn. If you stretch with the collection, then the delay will also negatively affect the fruits, as well as early harvesting. The fruits will overripe and about them long-term storage not worth thinking.
• In the garden, autumn time is the time for planting fruit crops, such as apricots, you can plant all kinds. Cuttings from currants and grapes take root well before winter. Rooted young plants will be ready for planting in the spring months.
• All shrubs and trees are pruned. Dry, broken and diseased vines are removed. After that, it is imperative to spray crops from pests and diseases.
• Do not delay with the latest harvest of vegetable crops. They will not be able to ripen anymore, and green tomatoes can still be canned or pickled. Also, do not leave planting potatoes. The first frosts will negatively affect the tubers left.
• September is the ideal time to prepare planting material for growing winter crops and plant seeds in polycarbonate greenhouses or greenhouses. Also now you can plant garlic cloves, then they will give a good increase in the first days of spring.
• Those who cultivate flowers in September are very busy. They are collecting seeds, as well as planting bulbs, etc.

October is marked by the fact that at this time it is recommended:

• Replant shrubs and trees to a new place of residence. But before starting work, they wait until the plant completely sheds all foliage.
• You should also take care of the fruits of the late harvest period. They are checked, like the September fruits, so that they do not have time to overripe. Many varieties are laid to ripen.
• The next step is top dressing, simultaneously with loosening and tillage.
• Do not forget about the landing of green manure. The best time landing - the first days of October for the southern regions. For the central regions of Russia and the northern districts, spring crops no longer need to be planted, they will not have time to grow. Rye and winter wheat is the time to plant. Until it comes subzero temperature, these crops will have time to sprout well, which means they have every chance of overwintering well. If siderates were planted earlier, then October is the time when they can be dug up. Then they will have time to well overwinter and saturate the soil with organic matter.
• In areas with high acidity, you need to reduce this indicator, because not all plants can fruitfully grow and develop in such conditions. For these purposes, liming is carried out on the breasts, scattering lime or chalk.
• Flower growers continue to plant bulbs. At the first drop in air degrees, hyacinth tubers are to be planted in the ground.
• After the appearance of the first frost, the tubers are carefully uprooted, and s. They are stored in a cool place. After being installed negative temperature cover hyacinths and lilies with peat, moss, sawdust or pine spruce branches.

The last month of autumn requires the last effort before wintering. The southern regions have a mild climate, so most plants are not sheltered. But, this does not apply to all grape varieties, some should be insulated. The vine is removed from the trellis or supports, laid out on wooden pallets or in dug trenches in the soil. After that, wrap the vine with film or earth.

If the trees do not need insulation, they should be whitewashed with lime. It is necessary not only to protect against rodents, but also from bright spring sunlight. They can cause burns and cracks in the bark. Also, whitewashing plays the role of a kind of protection from exposure to the sun. On warm winter days, the rays tend to warm the bark, and in the evening the temperature drops, causing the tree shell to freeze. What can cause the death of seedlings.

In colder regions, fruit trees should be insulated with spruce branches or peat, and the trunk should be wrapped with burlap or other breathable material on top.

From above it is recommended to wrap a net-netting in a circle. It will not allow rodents to eat the bark in the winter cold. It is impossible to use a film or other for wrapping nonwoven fabric. It does not allow air to circulate, which provokes the decay of the bark. As a result, various fungal diseases develop. In the garden during this period, you can plant any vegetable crops. Low temperature will not allow seedlings to sprout, but they will go through a natural process of stratification. This will allow the sprouts to gain immunity and get sick less in the future period.

Flower work is coming to an end. Perennial plants are cut for the winter under the base. Roses are cut to such a level that they can be covered. Bulbs are covered with spruce branches, moss or sawdust.

All work is completed. Last days set aside for cleaning up all cases and complete shelter of all trees for wintering. Thus, the autumn months are no less eventful for farmers than spring or summer. The main thing is to prepare the garden and vegetable garden for the coming winter and the future fruitful period. If you do not follow the basic procedures for rich fruiting, you can not wait.

More information can be found in the video: