Does cedar inhibit plum and cherry. Compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs

Hello, this fall we plan to plant apple trees (semi-cultivation), honeysuckle, currants, cherries, apricots, plums on our site, we live in Transbaikalia. Our plot is rectangular: on the left along the fence sits raspberries at the end of the greenhouse area, so we want to step back from the greenhouse about 6 meters and plant tall ones first, and then currants closer to the greenhouse, please help plan a successful neighborhood of plants. (Anna)

We answer:

Answer your question detailed plan I can’t, but I’ll give information in the neighborhood. Just do not take everything as a 100% rule. As practice shows, in addition to wise advice and scientifically proven facts, any unaccounted factor can work in every situation. For many gardeners, fruit trees do not grow according to the rules, and still get along well. Climate, soil, and much more can play a role.

What trees and shrubs to plant in the neighborhood, and which not?

Honeysuckle- Feels good next to blackcurrant. It is not recommended to plant red and black currants side by side. At the same time, gooseberries will take root perfectly next to red currants. Gooseberries are not friendly with black currants.

apple trees- compatible with many plants, except mountain ash. Rowan spoils the harvest of fruit trees. Also, keep in mind that the apple tree should not grow where you plan to plant potatoes (or vice versa) - these are bad neighbors. Also, do not plant gooseberries, raspberries and currants nearby.

Black currant- plant it next to honeysuckle, away from red currants, cherries, plums, apple trees, raspberries and apricots

Cherry- do not plant nearby with apricot, black currant, raspberry, apple tree. At the same time, cherries get along well with plums or cherries. Keep peppers, tomatoes, and strawberries away from cherries.

Plum- does not like black currant, raspberry, pear, apple tree.

Raspberry- requires a lot of space, because its root system is actively growing. Do not plant currants or gooseberries next to raspberries - the bushes will wither away.

Trees must be planted at least three meters from buildings, otherwise the walls of buildings will give shade, and this will affect the plants.

Raspberries, currants and gooseberries will take root in partial shade.

Shrubs should not be placed directly under the trees - nothing good will come of it.

The southern fruit apricot is moving further north. This is due to the success of breeders and the enthusiasm of our summer gardeners. Planting an apricot in a harsh climate is a risky business, but an interesting one. How to plant this tree to enjoy delicious fruits? Let's look at the main issues that arise when planting an apricot.

Where is the best place to plant an apricot?

A place for planting an apricot should be chosen not just the sunniest, but more importantly, it should be well protected from cold, especially winter, winds. In the wild, apricot trees often grow on slopes, sometimes quite steep. Our garden plots usually quite even, and this is good for us: it is easier to care for a variety of beds. Nevertheless, modern gardening experts advise planting apricots on artificial hills, and mounds should be made on any soil. This artificial hill should be at least 30–40 centimeters high. When choosing a place, it must be borne in mind that apricots can grow up to 30 years or more.. Apricot grows very poorly on heavy clay soils. The best survival and growth - on light loamy soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction of the environment.

Apricot planting scheme

Depending on the available space, region and variety, different planting patterns are chosen, and when it comes to an apricot orchard, trees are usually planted according to a 5 x 5 m pattern and form rounded crowns. But on suburban area these distances may vary slightly.

One of the options for the location of apricots in an industrial garden - 5 m between trees and between rows

Distance between seedlings when planting

In conditions industrial production apricot trees are planted according to schemes from 3 x 5 to 5 x 5 m, and in the case of varieties with very tall trees, the distances are even greater. On my own small plot it is unlikely that we will plant many apricot trees. Well, unless we live in the south and the plantation is far from 4-6 acres. Therefore, we are talking about a maximum of three copies. And even if there are three of them, this is one row. The distance between the trees should be left 3-4 meters, while taking into account that in a few years their crowns will still close.

Some agricultural scientists believe that thickening apricot plantings is even useful: it somehow affects some “cunning” processes that increase winter hardiness, and even advise trying to plant trees even more often.

How many trees should be planted in the area

I do not want to advise planting more than two trees on six acres. Adult apricots take up a lot of space and spread their roots very far, sucking out all the nutrition and moisture from neighboring beds. Its root system is twice as large in diameter as the crown. It is often said that up to 3 trees are needed for good pollination. When planting 3 trees in the country, in a few years there will be no room for parsley-cucumbers at all! In terms of pollination, they will find a companion somewhere in the gardens nearby. If in your conditions the apricot likes it, then the family will have enough “for the eyes” and one. And if you don’t like it, it’s easier to buy delicious apricots at the market and not suffer.

Last summer, near a neighbor (40 km north of Saratov), ​​for the first time in 10 years, a huge apricot yielded large tasty fruits. All the neighbors got 20–25 buckets each, and how many more were missing!

What can be planted next to an apricot

The apricot grows into a huge tree, shading everything around and depleting the soil many meters away. Therefore, little will grow near it, and this must be taken into account: valuable square meters. Next to the apricot, you can plant low flowers that bloom in early spring(tulips, daffodils, primrose). They, as a rule, vegetate at a time when there is still enough moisture in the soil, and grow back in the spring, when there is still no foliage on the tree and there is enough sun.

Early spring flowers are quite appropriate under the tree

Apricot does not like the neighborhood of raspberries and currants. Apricot generally prefers to live his own life. When planting trees, one must also remember about the predecessors. You should not plant an apricot where other stone fruits (plum, cherry, peach) grew.

If old pears, oak or ash grow somewhere nearby, that is, trees with deeply penetrating roots, most likely the apricot will also like the soil. But within a radius of five meters from it, nothing will grow well anyway.

When to plant an apricot

In the southern latitudes, where the apricot lives in its native climate, there is no question about the timing of planting the apricot. They do it both in spring and autumn. The main thing is that the tree should be in a dormant state at the time of planting. In the middle lane, landing and further cultivation apricots create a lot of problems. They are associated with insufficient winter hardiness of apricot trees. This is partly dealt with by grafting apricot cuttings onto plum or cherry plum, but this does not always solve the problems. Wild apricot trees are also good rootstocks for cultivars of apricot: common apricot and Manchurian apricot. Often, gardeners themselves grow apricots from scratch, using seeds of local varieties for this.

The question is about the timing of landing in the average and relatively northern latitudes solved unequivocally: only in the spring! In most regions, this is the end of April, in the south, if you use spring planting, then even earlier. Autumn planting is practiced in those regions where there is no risk of tree freezing in winter. For example, in Krasnodar Territory or the Rostov region, apricot planting begins in mid-October and is carried out for about a month. In the conditions of the middle zone, if it is still autumn, then a little earlier.

spring planting

In principle, there are two options: purchase a young grafted seedling or try to plant a seed, taking it from a trusted tree, from one of your friends. This article discusses the planting of apricot seedlings, so just a few words about the seeds.

If there are bones reliable apricot it makes sense to spend extra year, but be sure what exactly will grow in your area. Properly prepared and planted apricot pits sprout well and quickly make their way to a strong, fruit-bearing tree.

The bones are taken from ripe apricot and soaked in water, then dried and stored dry until spring. In early spring, they are soaked for a week, often changing the water. Then they are placed in wet sawdust or moss and transferred to a room with a temperature of +4 °C to +12 °C. The stratification process takes 1-3 months. When the peel bursts and sprouts appear, that is, around the beginning of May, they are planted to a depth of 5–7 cm. Soon sprouts appear, and when proper care in a year the seedlings will be ready for planting on permanent place.

Apricot kernels - the most reliable planting material

But back to our seedlings, which we purchased in a safe place. If suddenly this happened back in the fall, they should have been stored with us in a prikop or in a cellar. It is important that the buds of the seedling were still in a dormant state.

landing pit for spring planting better to cook in the fall. In the spring, there is simply neither the strength nor the time for this! To plant an apricot, they dig a hole measuring 70 x 70 x 70 cm or a little more.

To the bottom of the pit in case clay soil put drainage - gravel, broken brick etc. on sandy soil drainage is not needed. In this case, a little clay can be put on the bottom of the pit, 15–20 cm high, in order to better retain irrigation water. Then the soil taken out of the pit is poured, after mixing it with fertilizers. As a mineral fertilizer, it is easiest to take a complex one, for example, nitrophoska, about 0.5 kg, and 6–8 buckets of humus or at least half-rotted manure or compost are placed. Acid soil is neutralized by adding landing pit half a bucket of slaked lime. Do not forget about the usual ash from the burning of wood residues. Ash is a source of potassium, which apricots are very fond of. It can be put more, you can also half a bucket. Ash is a "long-playing" fertilizer.

Even when landing on a hill, you will need a landing pit

As for any seedling, when buying an apricot Special attention turn to the state of the roots. There should be several of them, they should be healthy, elastic, not dry. If there are a small amount of damaged roots, they should be cut with pruners to a healthy place. Two-year-old seedlings are optimal for planting, they will bear fruit faster. But no worse, and sometimes even better, one-year-old twigs take root.

The roots of a seedling delivered to the site for planting would be good to dip in clay talker or at least let them swim until they land in the water.

The very planting of an apricot in a planting hole is almost the same as planting, for example, an apple tree, but we decided that our tree will grow on a mound. Planting is easier with two people. And since it will be a mound, then we will fill almost the entire pit with fertile soil with fertilizers, and then we will put the seedling on a horizontal surface, after driving a strong stake into the pit. It must stand firmly and protrude from the ground at least 80 cm. One of the gardeners holds the tree by the stem, straightening the roots, the other pours clean fertile soil on them in small portions so that a hill forms. From the top of the hill, after compacting the soil, the root collar should be visible. It is even better if it is 3-4 centimeters higher than the top, but the neck must not be underground! It is better to let some of the roots be slightly bare, but the neck should be out. After tamping the soil freely, with the “eight”, tie the stem of the seedling to the stake.

Here they are, just built mounds around the seedlings

After planting, the apricot will have to be watered a lot until new roots grow, which will themselves extract moisture. Therefore, at the top of the hill, it is necessary to build a roller so that the water remains available for the tree during irrigation, and does not flow in vain.

The first 2-3 buckets of water should be carefully poured under the seedling immediately after planting. During the first season, it is necessary to water frequently: the soil should not dry out. Subsequent waterings are required every 1.5–2 weeks. Watering is stopped closer to autumn, so that the trees prepare for winter. Periodically, the mound should be slightly loosened. At the end of summer, it is necessary to water the seedling with an infusion of ash so that it is better prepared for its first winter in a new place.

Planting an apricot in autumn

So, let's say that you live in a region with a quite mild climate, where the autumn planting of apricot trees is quite possible. What attracts gardeners autumn planting? Firstly, in this case we can talk about the full hardening of the seedling. But for this it is necessary that from planting to hard frosts there is a decent period, more than a month. Secondly, in the fall I planted, watered - and nothing more needs to be done: next water provide autumn rains. True, in heavily sour soil, apricot winters worse, and it does not need extra water.

What will be the differences in the procedure from the steps described above? Basically, everything, in terms of choosing a place, soil composition, hole size and planting technique, will be similar. Therefore, if you have not read about the technique of planting apricots in the spring, it is worth scrolling back a little. There are only a few features.

The planting hole must be prepared at least a month before the planting of the apricot, so that the biological balance can be established in it. The pit is not touched until landing. During this time, the earth will compact and significantly settle. The seedling you purchase may still have leaves. This is bad. So, they hurried with his digging. But if it still happened, the leaves must be carefully cut off, the roots slightly cut, and then the seedling should be placed with its roots in a container of water so that it gets drunk well for future use. Even better if it is a water infusion of mullein with clay. For the prevention of diseases, you can add 1% Bordeaux mixture. Further steps are the same as in the spring.

For the winter, seedlings do not cover anything. Moreover, excess snow is discarded from it, especially closer to spring, since the formed stable puddles can harm even more than moderate frost. For protection against rodents and sunburn late autumn it makes sense to whiten the stem of the seedling. Copper sulphate should be added to the solution. For serious protection against hares, the trunk can be tied with spruce branches.

At least for this it is worth planting a Christmas tree on the site

Next spring it will be necessary to make sure that everything is in order and the seedling overwintered normally. It is possible to cut off frozen branches, rake the soil from the stem and loosen it well.

Do I need to prune an apricot when planting

The purpose of pruning a tree in the garden is to obtain a powerful crown that is accessible to the sun's rays. Young seedlings must be pruned after planting. While they are small, with pruning everything remains very simple. If the seedling is an annual twig without branches, we simply shorten it at a height of 50–90 cm from the ground. Simply put, seedlings are shortened by about a third. Starting from next year, at a height of about 0.6 m, a future crown is formed near the apricot, consisting of 5–6 main branches, evenly spaced around the circumference of the tree.

The apricot crown is formed by pruning for several years

If you plant an apricot with side branches, leave the two strongest, choosing the right ones. They are cut in half. The rest are cut out completely, “on the ring”. The conductor is left such that it is 20–30 cm higher than the skeletal branches. All branches and buds that grow closer than half a meter from the ground are cut out. All sections are covered with garden pitch.

How to transplant an apricot in spring

Questions about transplanting apricots are almost never asked. There are few who believe that there is nothing difficult in transplanting, that the tree will easily take root, they even say that this can be done throughout the season. Most modern horticultural scientists are unanimous in their opinion that an extra apricot transplant is only harmful. Apricot in a relatively adult state does not tolerate a transplant.

It is better to immediately choose the right place and plant a tree forever. But if you really need it ... Apparently, it is worth recognizing that young trees (up to 3-4 years old) can be transplanted, but very carefully and better in early spring.

This should be done before the awakening of the kidneys, in the landing pit prepared in the fall. For an apricot, this is a serious stress, he needs to increase nutrition. The amount of fertilizer applied to the planting pit should be increased one and a half times. It is necessary to dig up an apricot very carefully, preserving the roots as much as possible. And plant in a new place immediately, if possible, then with a clod of earth. Water well after planting. Not forgetting, of course, to cut off broken roots and branches, as well as shorten the main healthy ones.

If you decide to transplant an apricot in the fall, then this must be done, be sure to keep the earthen ball, wrapping it immediately after digging it in a dense fabric.

Features of planting apricot trees in the regions

It is worth repeating that the apricot is still a heat-loving plant, and no matter how great the success in breeding zoned varieties, planting apricots in areas in middle lane, and even more so in Siberia, is associated with considerable risk. AT southern regions growing apricots is easy, especially on the fertile lands of Ukraine, Crimea or Kuban. However, with a lot of effort, it can be cultivated even in the Urals.

Somewhere there is an invisible border between areas where everything will be unequivocally good, and where success is not guaranteed. This border is located somewhere at the latitude of the north Lower Volga or Kharkov. To the north of this border there is always a risk. Freezing occurs often, and good harvests - once every few years.

Planting an apricot in the middle lane

In central Russia, apricots have been planted for a long time, but earlier they were only poles - semi-wild trees with small fruits. Recently, the range has expanded significantly, they plant and large-fruited varieties, but necessarily grafted onto winter-hardy local stocks, possibly blackthorn or cherry plum. The most popular varieties are Krasnocheky, Honey, Northern Triumph, Lel, Aquarius, Alyosha. For more northern regions- Cellar, Success, Son of the Red-cheeked, Michurinets, etc. They tolerate frost well, and, most importantly, frequent thaws. Pretty handy for suburban plantings and the Eastern Sayan variety, which is distinguished by its compact size (no higher than 2.5–3 m), which makes it easier to care for.

One of the most popular varieties - Lel

In most areas of the middle lane, it is more reliable to place apricot seedlings on hills with a diameter of about 2 m and a height of up to 70 cm. Even the slightest lowlands are completely unsuitable for planting - cold air accumulates in them, as well as excess water, which is even more dangerous for apricot than frost. If the site has a slope, it's okay. Only, no matter how strange it may seem, the slope should not be south. And this is again due to the fact that the apricot withstands stable frosts more easily than unexpected thaws. In addition, on the southern slopes, seedlings will wake up earlier, which increases the risk of falling under return frosts. And here South side buildings - a good place. Moreover, sometimes summer residents even specially build some kind of light shields so that the sun's rays warm up the apricot tree better.

The ideal soil is sandy loam, loam, but only with a neutral soil reaction. Manure and ash can not be spared, but from mineral fertilizers it is more convenient to use azofoska. The rest of the landing is carried out exactly as described above. Optimally - in early spring, always before bud break. lovers autumn planting also available, but everyone chooses for himself.

Planting an apricot in the Moscow region

Of course, the Moscow region is also the middle lane. But the Moscow region in many respects stands apart, as it were. Even the high population density and abundance industrial enterprises lead to the fact that the local climate is characterized by unpredictability. In winter, frosts are very often replaced by long thaws, and this is very bad for apricot trees: they lead to the roots withering and injuring them with the resulting ice crusts. During the winter thaws, if the air temperature rises to +5 ° C, the trees come out of hibernation and begin active life, which then has an extremely negative effect on their condition. Only suitable for the region frost-resistant varieties capable of withstanding winter thaws. The optimal areas for growing apricots in the Moscow region are the southern ones (Serpukhov, Chekhov, etc.).

The best rootstocks for apricot seedlings near Moscow are plum, blackthorn, Manchurian apricot. Suitable varieties Iceberg, Alyosha, Aquarius, Tsarsky are considered, but many gardeners are sure that the best is Lel. There is a practice of planting apricots on special clonal rootstocks.

Planting is carried out only in the spring, if they are not with a closed root system. Apricot in the Moscow region, as well as in the entire middle lane, must be planted on a mound 1.5–2 meters wide. Instead of drainage, slate is often placed at the bottom of the pit, metal sheets or other obstacle. Apricot roots will not be able to germinate through it and will be directed to the sides, which will protect them from the effects of groundwater.

The scheme of planting an apricot on a hill involves fixing a seedling

The hill is sown on all sides with seeds various herbs, maybe even spicy. They are mowed down as they grow, leaving them in place as a natural mulch.

Planting an apricot in Belarus

Belarus is characterized by wooded and marshy places. There are almost no mountains here. The climate is characterized by sufficient humidity, relatively warm, as in the central regions of Russia. Of course, this is not the best region for growing apricots. It is mainly planted in the southern and southwestern regions (Gomel, Brest). In the northern ones, only the most winter-hardy local varieties are planted. However, prolonged winter thaws rarely occur in Belarus, and spring frosts mostly occur after the flowering of apricots, so the trees bear fruit almost annually. Just do not plant apricots in lowlands or drained peatlands.

Apricots are planted with seeds of local varieties and grafted ready-made seedlings. Grafting of apricot cuttings on winter-hardy blackthorn and plum trees is also practiced. Varieties traditional for the republic - developments of local scientists (Znakhodka, Pamyat Loiko, Spadchyna). Varieties cultivated in Russia are suitable only for the southern regions.

In the south of Belarus, summer grafting of varietal eyes on seedlings of local varieties is often practiced. In the first winter, they are completely covered with earth. In other areas, they try to plant apricots with 1-2-year-old trees. Landing date - April. The landing technique is no different from the generally accepted one. However, in Belarus, most soils are sandy. Therefore, a 20-cm layer of clay must be placed in the planting pits to retain moisture.

Planting an apricot in the Urals

The territory of the Urals is a region with unstable weather, it belongs to the zone of risky farming. Nevertheless, apricots are also planted here. In the Urals, it is possible to cultivate apricots under the condition of spring planting, but only sufficiently frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties. The most winter-hardy here are Amur, Seraphim, Minusinsky ruddy, Sibiryak Baikalova.

Apricot varieties Seraphim - well, why not a southern fruit?

The main problem is not even freezing, but aging of the root collar. It occurs in late February - early March, when the snow begins to melt. Since the water constantly thaws and freezes again, it severely injures the cambium and, as a result, the tree slowly dies. Therefore, the features of apricot cultivation in the Urals are not even the planting technology itself, but the subsequent care of seedlings. Already in November, in the event of heavy snow falling, it must be removed within a radius of half a meter from the seedling. Better let the ground freeze properly. The winter hardiness of the apricot root system is strong, it is practically not afraid of frost, unlike the ice crust in the soil. In March, the trunk circle is again cleared of snow.

The planting technique itself is common, but in the Ural region it is much more reliable not to plant apricot seedlings, but to grow trees from a stone. To do this, several seeds are planted in the ground in the fall, they undergo natural stratification in the winter and sprout in the spring. Often, the bones are not even planted in shkolki, but immediately in a permanent place, in a pre-prepared planting pit. From several seedlings, the strongest is chosen and cared for like a real tree.

Planting an apricot in Siberia

The harsh conditions of Siberia are characterized by winters with air temperatures reaching -40 o C or even more. But it is known that a long drop in temperature below -25 is detrimental to apricots. Therefore, varieties for the Siberian zone should have exceptional winter-hardy properties. There are quite a few of these now, but preference is often given to the Khabarovsky and Sibiryak Baikalova varieties.. Planting several trees of different varieties is desirable for the reliability of pollination.

Growing apricot in Siberia involves planting on a hill and in no case in a recess. Best of all - a gentle mound to protect the roots from freezing. At the same time, there should be enough land around the tree. After landing on the mound, it is good to sow grass, the apricot roots will only be warmer, and the sides of the mound, overgrown with grass, will not be disturbed. At the beginning of winter, some gardeners cover the trunk circle with a piece of linoleum or similar. sheet material keeping the tree from snow. This is both warming, and dryness, and the prevention of temperature changes in early spring. Snow is thrown away from the tree in winter.

Apricot seedlings grown from seeds in harsh Siberian conditions are much more reliable than those brought from other regions. Therefore, this technique is very often used, sowing the bones of local wild varieties, and the resulting seedlings are used as rootstocks for cultivated forms.

In the most severe climate, where the temperature is unfavorable for growing an apricot in a standard form, it is formed in the form of a stlanets. To do this, plant trees at an acute angle to the ground. The branches are pinned to the ground. The crown of such a "tree" is formed from a single tier located close to the surface. The rest of the branches are cut out “on the ring” early in the spring. (Cutting branches on a ring in case of cultivation ordinary tree not allowed in Siberia!).

Apricot - very tasty and exceptionally useful fruit. But it is not easy to grow it in a summer cottage in our entire territory. Nevertheless, it is worth trying to plant one or two trees. But this must be done taking into account some of the features that distinguish the planting of an apricot from the planting of other fruit trees.

Bad or vice versa?

In order to prevent this from happening, you first need to find out which neighbor is “friends” with a certain fruit tree. There is such a concept - allelopathy. This is the science that studies compatibility cultures. All plants influence each other, changing the habitat, by releasing the products of their vital activity into it.

Great neighbor for an apple tree is pine and cedar.

Pear

A pear cannot be planted together with the same trees as an apple tree. But besides these trees, the neighborhood of beech, barberry, should not be allowed.

The most harmful neighbor is the Cossack juniper, on which it develops.

Nice neighbors for her will be oak, Nevezhinsky mountain ash, black poplar.

Cherry

This tree will not be able to get along with apricot, black currant, raspberry, apple tree. But cherries are perfectly "friends" with plums or cherries.

You can not plant tomatoes, peppers, and other nightshade plants under cherries, as they are distributors verticillium wilt(the core and the whole inside the plant dies). Trees affected by this disease in most cases die.

Barberry

This plant is not afraid of any neighbors. He himself is able to suppress the development of any tree or bush. Therefore, it is recommended to plant it away from fruit plantations. His only enemy is the juniper, all because of the same.

Plum

You can not plant raspberries, black, apple, pear near plums.

But maple, and especially black elderberry, which helps save cherries from aphids, will become her good neighbors.

Cherries

Cherry has a strong surface, which often depresses its "neighbors". Therefore, it is not recommended to plant it near an apple tree, pear, mountain ash, black currant. It grows well with rowan ignorant.

Apricot

Apricot is a southern plant, so this tree is not very fond of our plants. It cannot be planted near apple, pear, plum, peach, cherry, red rowan, cherry and walnut (all types). He does not like this tree and planting currant or raspberry bushes under it, which are a haven for many pests.

This tree does not tolerate planting apple and pear trees in the neighborhood. And the peach will begin to shy away from cherries and sweet cherries, and that side of it that is adjacent to these trees will become bare. This will weaken the tree. And the bare branches will begin to dry out, which will lead to. Such a peach may not survive the winter.

Cherry and walnut, lovers of loneliness will also lead to the oppression of the growth of the peach and to its death.

General advice for all fruit trees:

Do not plant trees in the place of the old garden. AT last resort change the soil. In the old soil, there may be diseases or pests that are not as terrible for adult trees as or. yes and quantity useful substances in such soil is minimal. It is better to plant uprooted trees in place that will enrich it minerals and micronutrients.

Group Cultures: Each separate view it is better to plant separately. So, a cherry should grow with cherries, an apple tree with apple trees, etc. You can also group like this: stone fruits, etc.

Do not plant trees next to powerful old trees. Their root system is very developed, so they will oppress their neighbors.

It is better not to plant shrubs under the trees. Pests that did not die during the treatment of trees with chemicals, but simply fell from the tree, will winter well under the bushes and will again appear next year.

Do not plant vegetable and berry plants in gardens. They can cause the spread of many diseases. And crops such as potatoes and others are taken from the soil a large number of useful elements, making the soil poor and dry.

Try not to plant with fruit trees ornamental crops, which are "helpers" in the spread of diseases and pests.

Not so long ago, I learned that before planting a tree or shrub in the garden, you need to study the information about the compatibility of this crop with others, whether they can be planted side by side. It turns out that the compatibility of fruit trees and shrubs must be observed. Without knowing some of the features of the coexistence of plants, you can inadvertently harm your garden. If the mistake with planting next to unfriendly vegetables can be corrected next spring, then it will be much more difficult to do this with fruit trees or berry bushes.

What are the reasons for the incompatibility of the growth of trees and shrubs nearby? First, some plants have roots that are located at the same depth. In this case, they will interfere with each other. Secondly, there are plants that release certain substances into the soil that inhibit the development of others. There are other reasons as well.

Tip one: before planting a seedling, check the information on the compatibility of plants as garden neighbors.

On a note

• You can’t plant bird cherry in the garden - glass cases will flock to it from all over the area, which will then move to other fruit and berry plants.
• Hawthorn lures apple tree pests to the site.
• Buckthorn is a hotbed of goblet rust.
• Not a single plant tolerates the neighborhood of fennel and hyssop, so they should be planted in the farthest corner of the garden.
• Some vegetable plants they can't get along if they grow up together. By planting them side by side, you can lose a significant part of the crop.

Apple tree compatibility - what can be planted next to them

These fruit trees are able to get along with almost any kind of horticultural crops. An apple tree does not require a lot of space, and there is still enough space under the crowns of the trees to arrange the beds. In order to have fewer voids on the site, you can set up a flower garden on the trunk circles, as well as plant useful herbs. For example, dill and calendula will feel very good next to an apple tree. In addition to useful natural properties These plants do an excellent job of repelling pests.

On the other side of the garden, where the sun warms the earth well enough, under the apple tree you can grow tomatoes, the smell of the foliage of which will scare away the codling moth butterflies. Such a neighborhood is not only useful, but saves space.

An interesting and mutually beneficial neighborhood can be obtained by landing in apple orchard one or two conifers or deciduous trees. Fruit trees with such a neighborhood, they develop quickly and bear fruit abundantly.

But the mountain ash next to the apple tree should not be planted. This culture, as scientists found out at the beginning of the 20th century, has no place in orchard. Because of this neighborhood, the crop becomes wormy. The reason is rowan moth caterpillars that damage apples.

Currant compatibility - the best neighbors in the garden

Near currant bushes, both black and red, you can safely plant onions. It is better to do this before winter, as it will protect in the spring berry bushes from the kidney mite, a dangerous pest.

For blackcurrant, honeysuckle will be an excellent neighbor.

As for the closest relative - red currant, then you need to be more careful. red and black currant don't get along well with each other. An example is the snapshot at the beginning of the article. I was not able to take a photo so that it could be seen that blackcurrants are growing behind the neighbor's fence. But I assure you, before that, my red currants were literally strewn with berries. But the dacha neighbor planted a black one along the fence on his side - as a result, his harvest is meager and mine too. We both did not know about the incompatibility of these plants ...

Six months have passed since I published this article. In winter, it was not yet clear what we would see in the spring in the garden. Now I can already say that practically both of us with a neighbor in the country lost their currants. After spring, not a single (!) Blackcurrant bush “woke up” in him, and out of three red currants I had one left.

The same applies to raspberries. Its root system is very freedom-loving, it requires new territories. Currant from such a free neighbor begins to wither, the yield drops.

Gooseberry compatibility

For this culture, a useful neighborhood next to red currants is just right - the compatibility of these shrubs is good.

But with black, on the contrary, gooseberries are not friends. They have a common external enemy pest - gooseberry moth.

And for the same reason, it is better to plant raspberries away from gooseberries.

Raspberry Compatibility

A tasty berry crop - raspberries - does not like anyone's immediate neighborhood at all. The shrub grows strongly and begins to oppress other cultures, taking all the moisture for itself. So the question of the compatibility of raspberries with other trees and shrubs should not bother you.

Undersized vegetation (such as vegetables) will wither in thick raspberries.

Compatibility of grapes - what is more comfortable for him

This culture is loved, carefully cared for, monitored for development, for the quality of fruiting. good neighbors for grapes will be planting radish and oilseed radish.

beneficial effect on vine parsley has - the benefits of such compatibility are obvious. It heals grapes affected by phylloxera.

Unfavorable neighbors for grapes will be cucumbers and cabbage. At the same time, vegetables will suffer, since the climbing vine can oppress undersized plants.

Sea buckthorn compatibility

This is one of the most useful plants.

In the neighborhood with sea buckthorn (under its prickly crown), you can plant various medicinal plants such as oregano or chamomile. In addition, it is very convenient - everything for delicious fragrant tea is nearby. It remains only to collect leaves, flowers, berries and brew.

Raspberries, black currants and strawberries (garden strawberries) should not be planted next to sea buckthorn. Root systems of these plants in the soil are approximately at the same level, they will take moisture and nutrition from each other.

Tomatoes, potatoes should not be planted next to sea buckthorn - she does not like nightshade crops.

Strawberry (garden strawberry) compatibility - how to increase mutual benefit

Another one of my favorites berry plants strawberries in the garden. This culture is capable of capturing large territories, for which whole strawberry plantations are created. The plant behaves quite selfishly on the site, however, it grows well next to some cultivated plants. For example, next to marigolds, lettuce, bush beans, garlic, onions, chives, spinach. Such a neighborhood brings mutual benefits, in addition, it saves the landing area, therefore, with these crops, you can correctly plan the site.

Strawberry plantings are successfully combined with sage, borage, parsley, which will scare away slugs.

Refuse to plant potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes and cucumbers next to strawberries - they have a common pest - a nematode.

Also, do not plant strawberries next to raspberries. The harm from such a neighborhood is also associated with a common pest - the strawberry weevil.

By the way

Between the trees in the garden it is useful to sow spicy plants: anise, basil, coriander, lemon balm, parsley, thyme, tarragon. Their odorous substances repel many pests and curb the spread of diseases.