Plum details. Cultivation, useful properties and variety selection

A beautiful flower, like a bride in a cloud of lace, can become the best decoration your house. A flowerpot with it can turn any room into cozy fairy-tale rooms. But do we know how to care for indoor hydrangea so that it will thank us for a long time with its lush flowering?

If you have not yet come across room hydrangea, then you have probably seen her older sister in gardens and flower beds. In the people, this perennial shrub with huge clusters of white flowers is called "Destiny" or "Bride". It looks almost the same, only the stems are much smaller.

This is a perennial subshrub, covered with oval leaves framed by denticles. Spherical inflorescences can reach about 20 cm in diameter. Flowers are corymbose, racemose or umbrella-shaped. Large inflorescences located along the edges of the flower are sterile, and fertile usually small size and located in the center.

Indoor hydrangea will serve as an excellent decoration for any home.

The peculiarity of hydrangea from other plants is that the color of its flowers does not depend on the variety or some selection rules, but on the properties of the soil in which the bush grows:

• neutral soil - cream or white;
• acidic soil - blue;
• alkaline soil - pink shade or lilac.

At the same time, the petals themselves remain colorless, and the sepals of the flowers are responsible for the shades and decorative qualities of the inflorescences: they acquire a bright color.

At home and following all the rules, hydrangea can easily reach a height of 1 meter.

Caring for room hydrangea

In order for it to grow strong, healthy and please you with its flowering as often as possible, provide it with suitable conditions. It is believed that this flower is unpretentious. But if any of the conditions is not met correctly, the hydrangea will begin to wither and eventually die. Therefore, carefully read our advice and follow them constantly.

Landing Rules

The lifespan of a hydrangea as indoor flower- about 4 years, after which it will be necessary to plant it again. In addition, the plant requires an annual transplant, which promotes lush flowering. Since the root system of the plant has a horizontal type (it grows not down, but to the sides), wide, spacious pots should be selected. Each next should be at least one and a half times larger than the previous one.

Transplant your hydrangea into a pot bigger size for good growth roots

To plant hydrangeas, prepare the substrate in the following ratio:

• 0.5 parts of sand;
• 1 part peat;
• 1 part of leaf land;
• 2 parts of sod land.

Humus does not need to be added to such a mixture: it is harmful to hydrangea roots.

Like any cultivated plant, it perceives the transplant as stress, which negatively affects future development. To minimize the danger, transplant the flower using the transshipment method. At the bottom of the flowerpot, first place a good layer of drainage. When the plant is moved to a new pot, add fresh substrate. It should fill all the voids, leaving the root collar of the flower flush with the ground.

After you transplant the hydrangea and moisten the soil, add a layer of peat mulch to the flowerpot: it will hold required amount moisture in the substrate.

Flower location, light and temperature conditions

Hydrangea feels great in a well-lit space, but there should be no direct sunlight. It is not recommended to keep it directly on the windowsill: the leaves will eventually become covered with light spots - burns. But even in the shade, the flower cannot develop. Place the flower in a south-facing room, 2-3 meters from the windowsill.

The best temperature for hydrangea is room temperature, within +18 - +22 degrees. The flower does not tolerate sudden changes, as well as drafts.

Position the hydrangea so that direct sunlight does not fall on it.

During dormancy, this plant needs coolness and shade. You can lower it for this time in the basement and water it if necessary. Comfortable temperature +7 - +10 degrees. In February, the flower will begin to bud - it's time to return it to the room. If you do not provide hydrangeas with the right wintering conditions, it will bloom only a year later, next winter.

Watering the flower and the necessary humidity

Hydrangea - very moisture-loving plant. No wonder she was given another name - hydrangea, or "barrel of water." However, overdoing it in watering is also not recommended.

Note! The optimal watering formula is as follows: in summer - regularly and a lot, in autumn and spring - moderately. In winter, during the dormant period, watering is done only when necessary to prevent stagnation of moisture in the pot.

Water for irrigation should be taken settled, room temperature. Rain or melt water is great (only if you live in an ecologically clean region). From time to time add lemon juice at the rate of 5 drops per 1 liter of water. With low acidity, hydrangea leaves begin to turn yellow.

If the edges of the hydrangea leaves dry out, it means that the humidity in the room is too low. Do not place the flower next to the battery, use humidifiers. Spray the plant with water from a spray bottle as often as possible.

Do you want to speed up flowering and increase the decorativeness of flowers? This is easy to do: add the substance gibberellin to the water for irrigation and spraying at the rate of 0.1 g per 1 liter of water.

Fertilizers and top dressing

During the period of active growth, hydrangea needs top dressing, which must be applied 1 time in 2 weeks. Any fertilizer for flowering plants, such as heather, rhododendrons, azaleas, is suitable for this. You can easily buy them at any hardware or flower shop.

Buy fertilizer for flowering plants in a specialized store

The beginning of top dressing falls on February, when the hydrangea, after a dormant period, begins to form new shoots. It is not recommended to feed the plant in winter.

pruning

Beginning gardeners may decide that indoor hydrangea no need for pruning. This is not true. On the contrary, it is for room hydrangea that pruning is very important condition care. Thanks to her, the bush will take shape, and the plant as a whole will correctly distribute useful material obtained from the soil.

Pruning hydrangeas in a timely manner to form the crown of the bush

Pruning should be done twice a year:

1. In the fall, when the hydrangea has faded, remove weak shoots under the root. Shorten the strong ones by half the length.
2. In the spring, remove too elongated weak shoots.

You can also cut off the top of the plant. So you will give the opportunity to grow additional shoots and form a lush bush.

reproduction

Most often, the reproduction of this flower is carried out by cuttings and dividing the bush. Planting seeds is less commonly used: this method is quite laborious and does not always give positive results.

cuttings

This is the easiest way. Held in January-February. Cut cuttings from basal shoots so that there are no more than 3 internodes on a branch 8 cm long. Remove leaves from the bottom of the cuttings. Cut the top half. Treat the lower cut with a root stimulator. Plant the cuttings in a substrate of sand and peat, keep in the light at a humidity of about 80 /% and a temperature of up to 20 degrees. It is recommended to cover the cuttings with glass jars, removing them daily for airing. Moisten the soil constantly. After 3-4 weeks, the cuttings can be planted in pots.

Hydrangea stem with roots

The division of the bush

Also a simple method, but it requires caution. When making an annual transplant, divide the bush so that each division has growth points and roots in the right amount. Shoots and roots need to be shortened. Plant parts of the plant in different pots, water and mulch the soil. The division of the bush is best done in the spring, if you want the delenki to take root by the fall.

Growing from seeds

Held at the end of winter. Prepare the soil from equal parts of humus, leaf and sod land. Add half the peat and sand. Put a little substrate in a bowl and scatter hydrangea seeds over the surface without embedding them in the ground. Cover the bowl with glass crops. Air and moisten the crops with a spray bottle every day so that the soil is constantly moist, but not wet. Glass can be removed after emergence. When 2 leaves appear on the seedlings, dive them into containers with the same soil.

Propagation of hydrangeas by seeds is a painstaking task.

Strictly observe the breeding time so that the hydrangea grows and forms properly.

Diseases and pests

Like any cultivated plant, indoor hydrangea can be affected by diseases and harmful insects. How to recognize them, and most importantly - get rid of them?

1. Gray rot appears on hydrangeas at very high humidity. You can stop its development by treating the flower with Bordeaux liquid.

   Gray rot on hydrangea leaves

2. False powdery mildew also affects the plant at high humidity. It is destroyed by fungicides and copper-containing preparations.

   downy mildew

3. Dry air and insufficient soil moisture leads to the appearance of aphids and spider mite. The first is destroyed with a soapy solution, karbofos or actellik. The second - with soapy water and frequent spraying.

   Traces of the life of a spider mite

4. If the plant is affected by a nematode, then, unfortunately, it will have to be thrown away.

When growing hydrangeas, you may have some more difficulties. For example, yellowing leaves. The reason for this most often is improper care: insufficient watering, low nitrogen content in the soil, chlorosis due to a large amount of alkali in the soil. The plant will recover as soon as you eliminate these errors.

If you forget about watering and spraying, very soon the hydrangea will begin to dry. The reason may also be a lack of nutrients in the substrate or damage to the roots during transplantation. In the first case, it is enough to water the flower in a timely manner, in the second - to provide good feeding. If the cause was injury to the root system, such a bush is unlikely to grow healthy.

If the hydrangea does not bloom, it means that in the winter she was not provided with a good rest. All forces were spent on the previous flowering, and new ones were not accumulated. Do not forget that the flower needs wintering for 70-80 days in a cool dark room. Even if the leaves do not dry or fall off, and the hydrangea looks fresh and strong, prune and lower the plant pot into the basement. Do this in December, and in February the flower will be ready for the next life cycle.

The unique property of hydrangea

This wonderful flower interesting for its unusual ability to change the color of the petals. You can take advantage of this to create a shade that matches the interior of the room with your own hands. Hydrangea accumulates aluminum, due to which its flowers acquire the desired color.

For example, the petals will turn pink if you add lime to the soil. The addition of aluminum sulfate will provide a blue color. Acidic soil will give the colors brightness and saturation, neutral - a noble pallor. For oxidation, use peat, coniferous soil or sawdust. For alkalizing, it is better to use ash, lime and chalk.

You can change the color of the hydrangea yourself by applying little tricks.

To obtain blue flowers, add potassium alum to the water for irrigation, about 8 grams per 1 liter of water. You can also spray the bush with a solution of 50 g of aluminum citrate per 1 liter of water.

Some flower growers claim that the white-petaled hydrangea does not change its color due to the properties of the soil or the addition of any substances. Allegedly only varieties with blue and pink flowers subject to such changes. Well, a good reason to experiment at home. Moreover, in this way you will not harm the flower itself.

Video: features of care and reproduction of room hydrangea

We hope you are interested in this unusually beautiful flower, and our tips will help you grow a strong, healthy and blooming hydrangea. Share your experience with us in the comments and ask any questions you have. Good luck and enjoy your home!

How to take care in winter?

Hydrangea room is deciduous plant, so it is characterized by shedding leaves before its dormant period. This phenomenon occurs once a year, before the onset of severe cold weather.

In order for her to safely survive the hibernation mode and to thank in next year their owners with abundant and long flowering, she needs to provide a number of necessary conditions.

Preparation for winter should begin in the fall. It includes making some changes to the care of the plant.

Before the onset of cold weather at a gradual pace shrinking the intensity of watering hydrangeas, stop feeding.

rest period

The dormant period begins shortly after the end of flowering and lasts approximately 2-3 months. When the hydrangea fades, the plant is pruned and moved to a cool and dry room.

Light mode

She is not picky about the light. Important: this plant is sensitive to direct sunlight, so this factor must be eliminated immediately.

Hydrangea can grow well in partial shade, and in winter time of the year light shading she just necessary for a good rest and a set of forces for the upcoming flowering. In dormant mode, lighting for this flower is not essential.

Temperature regime

Indoor hydrangea prefers coolness. If in the warm season it is recommended to keep it at a temperature +15 to +22 degrees, and at the same time protect from sudden changes in temperature and drafts, then in winter she will feel great at 5-9 plus degrees.

The optimal place for keeping in winter is dry and ventilated basements and semi-basements.

It is recommended to transfer hydrangea to an apartment or house, to a familiar place, at the end of winter or early spring (February-March), when the plants begin to germinate kidneys.

Important: the temperature in the room where the flower is placed after wintering should not be too high, otherwise it may respond dropping their leaves.

Watering

As noted above, the preparation of hydrangeas for wintering begins with a reduction in watering. During hibernation should receive minimum moisture. Water the plant should be occasionally, and then only to prevent the drying of the earthen mixture in the pot.

If it is moved to the basement for the winter, its need for moisture is significantly reduced, so watering at this time can be completely stop.

Manipulations in the winter

In winter, when in rest mode, you should try to disturb the hydrangea to a minimum and minimize all kinds of manipulations for care and maintenance.

• if the plant is kept in an apartment, it needs to provide a cool temperature regime, rare moisture (as the soil surface dries).
• if the pot is moved to the basement, it is not necessary to touch it at all during the entire hibernation period.

Important for this plant procedures - transplantation and pruning - are not carried out in winter. Separate time should be given to them in the fall or spring.

Important: You can’t feed hydrangeas in winter!

• during autumn pruning leave only a few of the strongest shoots. Partial pruning (in order to remove weak shoots) is also done in the spring, after the plant wakes up;

• transplantation is best done in the fall, after flowering. Young plants are transplanted every year, old ones - once every 2-3 years.

Important: indoor hydrangea prefers acidic soil with good drainage characteristics. The soil mixture for this plant should consist of humus, leafy soil, sand and peat.

How to keep in a pot until spring?

Caring for a flower in a pot consists of the following points:

• carrying out all manipulations preceding the rest period ( gradual preparation plants, pruning and, if necessary, transplanting);

• compliance with all conditions needed by the plant during sleep mode.

She just needs dark and cold wintering . During this time, she manages to recover and gain new strength for the appearance of future flowers. If this condition is not observed, the plant will be able to please the owners with its next flowering only after a year, or even more.

Ggortensia is an unpretentious plant, but its flowering is a magnificent sight. In order for her to be able to give life to new flowers after a long winter, it is necessary to provide her with optimal conditions. They do not require any special knowledge and great flower growing experience, and the beautiful hydrangea will surely thank you with lush balls of beautiful inflorescences.

Helpful information

See other materials about the care of room hydrangea:

1. How to grow indoor Hydrangea: better ways plant breeding
2. Beauty in your home! How to breed room hydrangea at home?

In many homes and household plots can see small shrubs, whose lush caps of inflorescences conquer and captivate with rare pastel shades. This is unique plant called hydrangea. As a houseplant, hydrangea settled in European homes as early as the 18th century. Since then, breeders have bred a large number of its varieties and varieties that never cease to amaze with their beauty.

This is by many favorite plant at home requires specific care and specific growing conditions. That is why, before you settle such an exquisite beauty in your home, you need to learn how to properly care for hydrangeas.

Decorative characteristics of hydrangea

Hydrangea is a beautiful flower perennial shrubs. A flower grows in the form of a compact multi-stemmed bush with beautiful, large, rich green leaves.

The plant can have two types of flowers - small fruiting and large barren. Globular hydrangea inflorescences look like big hats. The color of the flowers can be pink, lilac, cream, pale white, light green. The color depends on the pH of the soil. Alkaline soil gives the inflorescences a pink and lilac hue, sour - blue, and neutral - white. The sepals of the flowers give decorativeness and shade to the inflorescences, while the flowers themselves are colorless.

At home, with proper care, the plant can grow up to one meter. On one bush houseplant there can be from 1 to 7 spectacular inflorescences, which are located above the upper leaves of the shoots. A blooming ball of hydrangea in diameter can reach up to 30 centimeters. The fewer inflorescences on the plant, the larger they are.

Indoor hydrangeas, compared to garden hydrangeas, are more compact, but their colors are more intense.

The most popular varieties of room hydrangea

At home, only large-leaved hydrangea is grown in a pot, which currently has more than 100 varieties.

Varieties of blue:

• Ramars Mars - the bush is compact and has inflorescences, the diameter of which is about 20 cm;
• 'Early Blue' is a tall plant with bright blue buds.

Varieties with red inflorescences:

• "Prima" - a medium-flowering variety with small flowers, inflorescences 15-18 cm in diameter and a stem height of 20-25 cm;
• "Red Sensation" - the plant is distinguished by burgundy-red inflorescences, which, after adding aluminum sulfate or iron salts to the soil, become burgundy-purple.

Varieties of pink color:

• "Europe" - tall (40-50 cm), profusely flowering bush with an inflorescence up to 25 cm across and large flowers with a diameter of 6 cm;
• "Hamburg" - a plant whose height is from 35 to 40 cm, blooms profusely with large flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm;
• "Goliath" - the variety is distinguished by a bush height of 60-70 cm, sepals with deeply cut edges, dark pink large inflorescences and late flowering.

Varieties with cream and white inflorescences:

• Souer Tharese- early flowering plant with an undersized bush up to 40 cm high, inflorescences with a diameter of 15-17 cm and flowers correct form;
• M - me E. Mouillere - characterized by rather narrow leaves, flowers with 2-6 cm and inflorescences, the diameter of which is from 18 to 20 cm.

Hydrangea - home care

Hydrangea cannot be attributed to easily grown indoor crops. The plant is demanding not only to the conditions of detention, but also to strict observance certain rules for her care. This spectacular, but capricious flower does not forgive negligence and mistakes.

The hardest thing to follow keep the cycle of development hydrangeas in a pot. The flower must be carefully taken care of at the stage of bud formation, and the wintering conditions should be carefully monitored.

Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub whose foliage is not preserved even at room temperatures. During dormancy, the plant sheds its leaves. At this time, he needs to provide a cool place and adjust watering and fertilizing. This period lasts in the winter season for two and a half months. In spring, the plant begins to grow actively.

Hydrangea lighting at home

The requirements of the plant for illumination are the same for both the garden and indoor conditions. Hydrangea prefers a bright place protected from direct rays. It is best to arrange a flower with a pot two or three meters from the south window. The direct rays of the sun will cause the leaves to lose their decorative effect and jeopardize flowering.

The intensity of hydrangea lighting should not change throughout the year. Reducing light in winter can have a detrimental effect on the flower. Therefore, the plant must be rearranged to a brighter place, or used to increase the daylight hours of fluorescent lamps. A plant that lacks light in winter will weaken, become vulnerable to pests and diseases, and lose its decorative effect.

In addition to good lighting, indoor shrub loves Fresh air. Therefore, the room must be regularly ventilated without creating drafts. In summer, hydrangeas in pots feel most comfortable on balconies and loggias with shading, on terraces and in cool places in the garden.

Temperature and humidity

Indoor hydrangeas need cool conditions. Long years they will delight with their flowering only in a room where the air temperature does not exceed + 20C.

In winter, when the plant is at rest, you should also not forget to take care of it. At this time of the year, the temperature range should be from +4C to +9C. This indoor culture can even winter on a glazed balcony or loggia. In this case, the shoots will need to be cut by two-thirds, cover the plant with spruce branches, and wrap nonwoven fabric. It's okay if the shoots still freeze in winter. After pruning, the plant will quickly recover, begin to grow foliage and bloom.

Its green leaves speak about the comfort of temperature for hydrangea. If the flower begins to drop them, then the room is too warm for it.

In addition to cool conditions, hydrangea requires high humidity. For this buy a humidifier, or place a saucer or tray with wet moss and stones next to the pot.

Watering and feeding hydrangeas

The plant belongs to a moisture-loving culture, therefore, during the entire active growth, it must be watered frequently and plentifully, while respecting certain rules.

1. The soil around the roots should be constantly moist, but its top layer should be well dried before watering. In this case, the roots will not rot, and the plant will not get sick.
2. During the dormant period, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced. In the winter season, you just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
3. As soon as new leaves begin to appear on the bush, watering also gradually resumes.
4. It is recommended to water the plant with soft, settled water at room temperature.

summer hydrangea feed mineral fertilizers . Twice a week, the flower is watered with a solution that is prepared from 30 g of potassium sulfate, 40 g of superphosphate, 30 g ammonium nitrate. All prepared ingredients are mixed and dissolved in a bucket of water.

From mid-August, feeding stops. At this time, the vegetative growth of the plant will begin to stop, and flower buds. Weak shoots and root shoots will need to be removed.

Features of transplanting room hydrangea

Hydrangea care at home involves an annual transplant. The soil should be taken fertile, consisting of soddy, leafy earth and sand (3:3:1).

Since the root system of the plant is horizontal, it is recommended to choose a wide and spacious pot for it. In order not to damage the roots and minimize stress, the flower is transplanted by transshipment.

At the bottom of the pot should be laid thick layer drainage, then a layer of earth mixture, on which the prepared plant is installed. Around the roots, fresh substrate is poured so that root collar was at the same level with the ground.

After transplanting, the hydrangea must be well watered, and the soil should be covered with peat mulch from above. This will prevent moisture from evaporating quickly.

Ways to propagate home hydrangea

At home Hydrangea can be propagated in three ways:

1. The division of the bush.
2. Seeds.
3. cuttings.

The division of the bush

This is the easiest way to reproduce, which requires great care and adherence to some rules:

• the bush is divided during the annual transplant;
• all processes must have a sufficient number of roots and a growth point;
• the shoots and roots of the delenok are first shortened, and only then they are seated in pots and watered.

Divided and planted in spring, the bushes will take root well by autumn.

Reproduction by seeds

indoor hydrangea seeds breeds at the end of winter. The soil for sowing should consist of humus, soddy and leafy soil (1:1:1). Seeds are sown on the surface of the earth mixture. They do not need to be embedded in the soil. The container with sowing is covered from above with a film or glass.

Every day, crops should be ventilated and moistened from the sprayer. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always slightly moist. When the first shoots appear, the film or glass is removed.

As soon as two true leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be transplanted into a deeper container with the same soil composition. Grown up and strengthened seedlings are planted in pots, the diameter of which should be no more than seven centimeters.

Hydrangea cuttings

Experienced flower growers propagate hydrangea by cuttings, as this the most reliable way to reproduce it.

In January-February, cuttings 7-8 cm long are cut from the basal shoots of the plant. Each segment should have up to three internodes. On the upper part of the cutting, the leaves are shortened by a third or half, and completely removed from the lower part.

The segments are treated with a root stimulator, planted in a sandy-peat substrate, watered and covered with glass jars. This method of keeping them will help prevent the soil from drying out, and will maintain the humidity of the air that is optimal for the development of cuttings.

The container with seedlings should be kept in the brightest place at room temperature at 18-20C. After three to four weeks, the cuttings will take root, and they can be planted in separate pots.

From cuttings rooted in January-February by autumn a bush will grow from 3-4 shoots. If the cuttings are carried out in March-April, then the result will be a hydrangea with one stem.

Only caring owners who follow all the rules of care and requirements for temperature, soil selection, lighting and watering will be able to observe the luxury of hydrangea flowering. But such care is worth it. After all, this beautiful plant will look fresh and fashionable in any setting and in any interior. It can be used to decorate residential and industrial premises, winter gardens, balconies, terraces and flower beds.

Indoor hydrangea, when grown and cared for at home, is a semi-shrub spreading plant, reaching a meter in height, with large oval leaves (10-15 cm long) with notches along the edges. Large inflorescences (about 35 cm long) are umbrella-shaped and consist of sterile small flowers at the edges and fruiting in the central part.

The color palette can be adjusted with soil: more acidic soil colors the flowers in a blue tint, neutral ground gives a white or beige color, and alkaline - lilac or pink. The hydrangea fruit is a box with large quantity seeds.

Types and varieties of room hydrangea

Hydrangeas white and cream

• Hydrangea Mme E. Mouillere- the diameter of the inflorescences is up to 20 cm, the flowers are from 1-5 cm, the leaves are narrow.

• Hydrangea Soeur Therese- flowers of the correct form, inflorescence diameter up to 20 cm, bush height - 35-40 cm. Blooms early.

Hydrangeas Pink

• Hydrangea Goliath- a bush, up to 70 cm high, inflorescences are rather large (30 cm) of a dark pink hue, the edges of the sepals are deeply cut. Starts blooming late.

• Hydrangea Hamburg- has small flowers (up to 5 cm) color pink, collected in an inflorescence with a diameter of 16-18 cm. The bush reaches a height of 40 cm.

• Hydrangea Europe- the bush reaches a height of 50 cm, blooms with large flowers (up to 6 cm) in inflorescences with a diameter of about 25 cm. It has abundant flowering.

red hydrangeas

• Hydrangea Red sensation- burgundy-red inflorescences. It is possible to get a purple-burgundy color if you add iron salts or aluminum sulfate to the soil.

• Hydrangea Prima- the diameter of the inflorescences is up to 18 cm, while the flowers themselves are small - no more than 3.5 cm, the height of the stem is 20-25 cm.

Hydrangeas blue

• Hydrangea Airlie Blue- tall shrub with bright blue inflorescences.

• Hydrangea Ramars Mars- This variety is distinguished by its compactness. Inflorescences up to 20 cm in diameter, have a feature: over time, the tips of the petals turn green.

Hydrangea room care at home

For hydrangeas, the correct temperature regime is very important. On the hottest days of summer, the temperature should not exceed 20°C, and in winter, not lower than 10°C.

Indoor hydrangea does not like direct sunlight, so the most comfortable place will be South side apartments, at a distance of 1-2 meters from the window.

If you have garden variety, then you can familiarize yourself with the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in open ground.

Watering hydrangeas

In summer, frequent and plentiful watering is required, in spring and summer it decreases, and in winter it is practically excluded (just slightly moisten the soil, preventing drying out).

Water for irrigation should be settled or frozen (thawed), at room temperature. In addition, we must not forget about the regular humidification of the air. Spray with a spray bottle.

Fertilizer for hydrangeas

Fertilizers are added once every two weeks during periods of active growth (the appearance of new shoots) and flowering. Mineral fertilizers are suitable for flowering houseplants.

Hydrangea changes color

Hydrangea room has one more unusual feature, but actually the opportunity to make a colored bush. This is done using a different composition of the substrate, for example, by adding a solution of ammonia-potassium alum (4-5 / l) or iron salts, it will color the inflorescences blue, lime gives a pink or purple color, and white or cream flowers usually grow in neutral soil . Thus, you can make a multi-colored bush by adding various fertilizers in different parts of the pot.

Hydrangea transplant

A transplant of a room beauty is carried out every year, increasing the size of the pot by a couple of centimeters. Transplanting should be done with care. Place drainage at the bottom of the new pot, sprinkle some new soil, then carefully remove the flower from the old pot, along with all the earth, and place it in a new place of residence. Fill voids with fresh substrate and water. After that, a layer of peat is laid out on top for mulching (slows down the rate of moisture evaporation).

Do I need to prune hydrangea for the winter

Hydrangea pruning is a must. It is held twice a year. The first, after the end of flowering, before wintering, when weak, wilted shoots are cut to the ground, and strong shoots are cut in half. The second time, in the spring, when new shoots stretch out strongly in length, they are shortened so as not to weigh down the plant.

Hydrangea preparing for winter

The hibernation period, in hydrangeas, begins after the end of flowering. At this time, it must be removed to a darker and cooler place. Having fulfilled this condition, the flower will have time to rest and gain strength after abundant flowering and from February the buds will begin to wake up (the plant can be returned to its usual place). Otherwise, the next flowering will come no earlier than a year later.

Propagation of hydrangeas by cuttings in autumn at home

Cuttings are the most reliable method of propagation. If this procedure is carried out in January-February, then by next autumn there will be a real bush of 3-4 shoots, and if later, the plant will only put out one stem. Cuttings with at least three internodes are cut off from root shoots. The lower leaves are cut off, and the upper ones are cut in half (for large leaves) or a third (for small ones).

A shoot about 8 cm long, placed in a prepared substrate of peat and sand, watered and covered with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle, to provide moisture. Ventilate every day and do not allow the soil to dry out. After about a month, the plant takes root and can be transplanted into a separate pot, 8-9 cm in diameter is enough for a start.

Division of a hydrangea bush

The easiest way to divide a hydrangea bush. Carry out this procedure during the annual transplant. To do this, the bush is carefully removed from the pot and divided into parts (the number of parts depends on the density of the rhizome), so that each has a sufficient number of roots and shoots. At each divided site, the roots and shoots are shortened and placed in new pots with prepared soil.

Hydrangea from seeds at home

Hydrangea seeds are sown at the end of winter, on a substrate previously prepared and poured into seedling boxes: a mixture of leafy, soddy soil, humus, sand and peat (1: 1: 1: 0.5: 0.5). It is not necessary to sprinkle earth on top.

Moisten and cover with glass or film. Air every day and moisturize as needed. With the advent of seedlings, the glass (film) is removed, the seedlings are thinned out. As soon as leaves (2-3) appear on young shoots, they are transplanted into separate pots (7-8 cm in diameter) with the same soil.

Diseases and pests

• Gray rot- affects the plant at too high humidity. Treatment: treatment with Bordeaux liquid.
• Spider mites and aphids- affects the bush with insufficient moisture. Treatment: wipe the leaves and shoots with a soapy solution with a sponge, if it does not help, then treat with actellik in a week.
• Leaves turn yellow- insufficient watering, lack of nitrogen in the soil, or the soil is too alkaline, which causes chlorosis. To restore their strength and color, iron sulfate (10 g / l) or iron sulfate (2 g / l) is added to the water for irrigation.
• Indoor hydrangea begins to dry (tips dry)- due to insufficient moisture and watering, as well as lack of fertilizers. Correct the shortcomings, otherwise the next consequence will be the fall of leaves and buds. Therefore, do not forget to water, spray and fertilize as needed. Follow the plant, it will tell you.
• Indoor hydrangea does not bloom- this is a consequence of the fact that in winter the plant did not rest, but continued to grow and bloom, having spent a lot of energy. At the end of autumn, the bush must be cut and placed in a cool, dark place for wintering. And in the spring, get it back and continue the care, then the hydrangea will definitely bloom again.
• Brown spots appear on the leaves- lack of watering.
• Light spots on the leaves- an excess of light. Move the flower to shade. Hydrangea is afraid of direct sunlight.
• Slow flower growth– insufficient amount of fertilizers. Worth feeding.

Hydrangea is considered winter-hardy species. Breeders and authors of varieties claim that the plant can withstand temperatures from -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. A decent experience in growing an exotic elegant shrub has been accumulated. In the conditions of the North-West, the Urals, not to mention the Moscow region, even non-insulated specimens winter well.

At the same time, the sad practice of many hydrangea lovers suggests that the shrub often freezes out in relatively warm weather - as little as 15-20 degrees below zero. Similar incidents happen in the southern regions, even in the Black Sea region. Probably every case of plant death is caused by objective reasons. This article may be useful to those who want to understand the problem and achieve results.

Varieties are different, the problem is one

The literature provides various ways warming hydrangeas. Some operations must be performed for all species, some - only for certain varieties.

There is a difference between the types of hydrangeas. For example, large-leaved plants have a longer growing season. In addition, garden microphylla lays a flower bud in September, paniculate hydrangea in March-April. In the first case, the gardener must take measures to protect the tops of the shoots from frost burns. In the second, it is enough to insulate the stems and the root system: if at least one branch survived the winter, the plant will bloom.

But the reason given is just special case. The example does not explain why shrubs of the same variety have different frost resistance.

Maybe it's about relationships. Hydrangea grows to decorate: most of its flowers are barren. The shrub is wasteful: it spends too much energy on a stormy long flowering. Sometimes they are not left for development. If we immediately succumb to the charms of hydrangea and forget about tomorrow's winter, then we will face a problem: we insulated, but we did not succeed. Why?

1. Probably because our bushes are weak.
2. It is possible that the shoots are plentiful, and the roots are frail.
3. Or vice versa: the root system is powerful, and the foliage is short.

Mature stems overwinter well. This means that the plant must have sufficient energy to develop, gain strength and bloom.

Why does hydrangea freeze?

The reasons may be subtle. Here are examples.

The landing site was chosen in a lowland - and cold flows there. Or vice versa: a bush crowns the top of a blown hill.

1. Perhaps you have put organic matter under the root, and for some reason the worms do not process it into humus. It is known that plants do not absorb nutrients from undecomposed manure.
2. The composition and amount of mulch affects the survival rate: flower roots are close to the soil surface. They can partially freeze in a snowless winter.
3. Does the composition of the top dressing correspond to the stage of plant development: excess nitrogen provokes the growth of shoots, potassium and phosphorus contribute to the absorption of calcium, lignification of trunks. Disproportion generates an imbalance of development.

Based on our experience, in this article we will try to:

Select all the necessary preparatory stages for pre-winter flower care;

Determine the list of activities at each stage;

Assess their effectiveness.

In the end, you yourself will choose which methods to use to warm the hydrangea.

General rules for care for all types of hydrangeas

Frost resistance garden hydrangeas depends on two reasons:

From the ability of the roots to provide the bush with sufficient nutrients;

From the vitality of the shoots, the strength of the structure of the branches.

From the first day of the appearance of a young seedling, the florist continuously solves the primary task - how to create the most favorable environment for the shrub for development and subsequent wintering, during which the hydrangea will not freeze out.

Seven Facets: Successful Hydrangea Care Factors

So that a luxuriously flowering bush does not freeze cold winter it is necessary not only to think over ways to shelter the hydrangea, but also to create optimal conditions for it in advance for the growth and ripening of shoots.

1. Bush locations - where there is no draft. A corner near a fence, a windward wall of a barn, a bench, an ornamental garden structure will do.

2. Illumination - light shading. The best place where the sun is before noon.

3. Access to moisture. Hydrangea loves abundant watering. Plant it 1.5-2 m from fruit trees otherwise there will be too much competition for moisture.

4. Soil - nutritious, slightly acidic, with a fairly loose, but not sandy structure - useful substances should not be washed out. The best place for nursery macrophiles is the edge of the compost pit.

5. Adaptation of the root system. Roots in the nursery are accustomed to receiving an abundance of high-calorie substrate. The depleted soil of the garden poorly stimulates secondary petioles to develop. In order for the system to grow, the hole is expanded, made more than 50 cm. The soil structure is modified:

To improve permeability, crushed stone with sand is added;

To increase nutritional value - peat, dry foliage, humus, fertilizers.

6. Hardening, training of stems during the first three years according to special agricultural technology:

The young sapling grows freely in the first summer: broken, crooked, inward-growing branches are kept for it.

They put it in the cellar for the winter. Dungeon - the optimal environment: a stable temperature of 5-7 ° C, complete calm.

In March, a pot with a one-year-old plant is returned to the room. When the leaves bloom - in late June or early July, the stems are cut off: they stimulate the growth of shoots and the development of roots.

The next year, the procedure is repeated;

In the third year after the May-June frosts, the hydrangea is planted in the ground.

7. Feeding shrubs with fertilizers in digestible form. Since fresh mullein is poison for a plant, with a lack of experience it is better to exclude manure. It will be successfully replaced by rotted grass the year before last, forest litter, or the best option - biohumus. Dilute the mixture with 100 g of superphosphate - this complex will be enough for good nutrition.

Proper nutrition is the key to a successful wintering of hydrangeas

The roots are responsible for filling the stems with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen - construction material for proteins. Shoot cells, fruits, deciduous mass, all this is protein. Calcium, potassium - substances responsible for the protection of protein cells, for the strength of cell walls and connective tissue. Phosphorus promotes the absorption of minerals and trace elements.

The soil is needed not just nutritious. At different times, a given composition of top dressing is needed. AT early period- when ripe, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In autumn, hydrangeas are fertilized with phosphates and potassium.

Signs of the abundance of each substance are determined by the color of the leaves:

1. Yellowed foliage - nitrogen is needed. Urea, saltpeter are introduced into the diet.
2. Turquoise leaves - add superphosphate.
3. There is a slowdown in growth, a light border appears on the edges of the foliage - they are fed with chloride or potassium sulfate. Complex fertilizer - Potassium humate.

Preparing (pruning) hydrangeas for wintering

Leaves are cut off the stems. It is better not to touch the inflorescences - in the spring they can be removed before the first flowering bud. The same can be said about radical molding. If the plant is too thickened, you can sanitize - remove diseased, weak shoots.

However, the final decision - to cut or not to cut remains with the owner. The next pruning will be possible only in late spring, when the green mass appears.

The choice of insulation method for hydrangeas, taking into account the basics of winter heat transfer

Bush shelter options are different. These can be pits, tubes, sheds. With any method of wintering hydrangeas in the garden, at least two layers of insulation are used.

1. The first - a mandatory layer should cover the roots. Located on the surface, they need sound insulation. A mound of peat, compost 8-10 cm thick is the most suitable thermal protection.
2. The second layer is snow. It has been proven that fluffy white mass is the best heat insulator. The temperature on the soil surface under the snow canopy is on average 10-13 degrees higher than in the atmosphere. In most cases, the soil cools down to only 5-10 degrees of frost. Therefore, flower buds will be more comfortable when they are located below the snow cover.

Frost Shields

The following technology for warming hydrangeas is considered the most effective and least labor-intensive.

On one or both sides of the bushes are laid wooden shields with protruding pegs along the edges.

A straw roller is placed under the base of the bush. The stems are carefully leaned on the straw and laid on the shields.

The shoots are fixed - with the help of a cord stretched between the pegs, or pinned. You can lay out the shoots in a fan or in a bunch.

Pour insulation - straw, foliage, peat; cover the entire structure with non-woven material. Fixed with another shield.

Digging in a hole

Tear off a trench next to the flower. Hydrangea is dug up, placed in a hole, covered with a box, covered with turf, straw. A shield is laid on the pit, covered with a vapor-permeable film. Pressed oppression - bricks, logs.

Frameworks

For tall climbing species, frame frames are made. This method is suitable for frost-resistant climbing or tall varieties. Allows you to keep the temperature of the bush at the ambient level. Otherwise, the trunks containing moisture, due to its evaporation, will be additionally cooled - by 3o-5o relative to air. This method is categorically not suitable for garden large-leaf hydrangea.

Hydrangea pruning according to Tim Bebel - for guaranteed flowering after winter

An innovative method, discovered by an American florist, is gaining popularity every year. He suggests pre-winter pruning of hydrangeas in the summer so that the flower buds have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The essence of the technology is simple.

Non-flowering stems in July are shortened to the lowest lateral bud. Thus stimulate the laying of flower buds on the shoots and in the underground part of the plant.

The rest of the stems are cut in October - only a third of the length. It turns out a compact bush, which is easy to insulate. Such - they bloom with a 100% guarantee.

For the active growth of shoots, shrubs formed by this method need enhanced fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers - from spring to August.

Beautiful hydrangea flowers. And unassuming. They decorate gardens with a luxurious bright variety, and in return they demand ... attention. Agree: it is difficult to call the usual human attitude to the flower "care".

Hydrangea room is deciduous plant, so it is characterized by shedding leaves before its dormant period. This phenomenon occurs once a year, before the onset of severe cold weather.

In order for her to safely survive the hibernation regime and thank her owners next year with abundant and long flowering, she needs to provide a number of necessary conditions.

Preparation for winter should begin in the fall. It includes making some changes to the care of the plant.

Before the onset of cold weather at a gradual pace shrinking the intensity of watering hydrangeas, stop feeding.

rest period

The dormant period begins shortly after the end of flowering and lasts approximately 2-3 months. When the hydrangea fades, the plant is pruned and moved to a cool and dry room.

Light mode

She is not picky about the light. Important: this plant is sensitive to direct sunlight, so this factor must be eliminated immediately.

Hydrangea can grow well in partial shade, and in the winter season light shading she just necessary for a good rest and a set of forces for the upcoming flowering. In dormant mode, lighting for this flower is not essential.

Temperature regime

Indoor hydrangea prefers coolness. If in the warm season it is recommended to keep it at a temperature +15 to +22 degrees, and at the same time protect from sudden changes in temperature and drafts, then in winter she will feel great at 5-9 plus degrees.

The optimal place for keeping in winter is dry and ventilated basements and semi-basements.

It is recommended to transfer hydrangea to an apartment or house, to a familiar place, at the end of winter or early spring (February-March), when the plants begin to germinate kidneys.

Important: the temperature in the room where the flower is placed after wintering should not be too high, otherwise it may respond dropping their leaves.

Watering

As noted above, the preparation of hydrangeas for wintering begins with a reduction in watering. During hibernation should receive minimum moisture. Water the plant should be occasionally, and then only to prevent the drying of the earthen mixture in the pot.

If it is moved to the basement for the winter, its need for moisture is significantly reduced, so watering at this time can be completely stop.

Manipulations in the winter

In winter, when in rest mode, you should try to disturb the hydrangea to a minimum and minimize all kinds of manipulations for care and maintenance.

• if the plant is kept in an apartment, it needs to provide a cool temperature regime, rare moisture (as the soil surface dries).
• if the pot is moved to the basement, it is not necessary to touch it at all during the entire hibernation period.

Important procedures for this plant - transplanting and pruning - are not carried out in winter. Separate time should be given to them in the fall or spring.

Important: You can’t feed hydrangeas in winter!

• during autumn pruning, only a few of the strongest shoots are left. Partial pruning (in order to remove weak shoots) is also done in the spring, after the plant wakes up;

• transplantation is best done in the fall, after flowering. Young plants are transplanted every year, old ones - once every 2-3 years.

Important: indoor hydrangea prefers acidic soil with good drainage characteristics. The soil mixture for this plant should consist of humus, leafy soil, sand and peat.

How to keep in a pot until spring?

Caring for a flower in a pot consists of the following points:

• carrying out all the manipulations preceding the dormant period (gradual preparation of the plant, pruning and, if necessary, transplanting);

• compliance with all the conditions necessary for the plant during sleep mode.

She just needs dark and cold winter. During this time, she manages to recover and gain new strength for the appearance of future flowers. If this condition is not observed, the plant will be able to please the owners with its next flowering only after a year, or even more.

Ghortensia is an unpretentious plant, but its flowering is a magnificent sight. In order for her to be able to give birth to new flowers after a long winter, it is necessary to provide her with optimal conditions. They do not require any special knowledge and great flower growing experience, and the beautiful hydrangea will surely thank you with lush balls of beautiful inflorescences.

A photo

See more photos below:

Once in the south I saw a chic blue hydrangea. The bush was 1.5 meters high and even larger in diameter. Lush hats caused burning envy, why don't we grow such plants?! Large-leaved hydrangea has a lot of varieties of the most different shades, but they have poor winter hardiness. There are varieties that are considered winter-hardy, but they often freeze even with shelter. All my attempts to grow this hydrangea in the Moscow region ended in "nothing". And yet, I found a way to achieve lush flowering.

GRANDMA'S WAY

For the first time I saw a "decent" blue hydrangea in our climate under Nizhny Novgorod. She was raised by a fragile grandmother of about eighty and covered with various materials at hand.

It was difficult to cope alone, and a neighbor helped her. Old jackets or blankets were used, which were thrown over the branches, a film was put on top, and boards were laid on it so that the film would not be blown away by the wind. At the same time, under the weight of the blanket and boards, the branches were bent low to the ground. In winter, they were covered with snow, and under it they hibernated.

I also tried the "grandmother's" way. But our winters are very different: sometimes frosts without snow, sometimes thaws in January. The shoots either froze, then vyprevali. My hydrangea didn't bloom every year. Then it grew back, but I realized that this method was not for me. You expect a wonderful flowering, but you get one disappointment and an empty green bush.

SHELTER HYDENSIAS IN A NEW WAY

Application modern materials spunbond type also did not bring stable results. In large-leaved hydrangeas, flowers are laid on the tops of the shoots, and they can freeze slightly until there is snow, even at the beginning of winter. Spunbond does not save from severe frosts, because the main covering material is snow.

In fairness, it must be said that for 4 years my hydrangea wintered under the shelter of a double spunbond and bloomed regularly. The bush has grown well and gained volume. It was all the more insulting to lose him almost completely, when, after a strong thaw, frosts broke out. Hydrangea froze to the ground. The bush partially recovered, but I did not want to risk it anymore.

CONTAINER CULTURE

Growing hydrangeas in pots known way. I got the opportunity to use it when we moved to new house with a great basement. Hydrangea hibernates without leaves, so it does not need light. A cellar will do.

Please note that the cellar must be dry and the basement must be cool. Often the cellar is damp, and the basement is too warm. In both cases, the hydrangea may suffer.

The temperature regime for wintering hydrangeas is from 0 to +5 degrees. If you do not have such a room, allowable temperature+10С. If the thermometer reads +12..14С, there should be light in the room.

In private homes, hydrangeas can live on a cold veranda, where the temperature does not drop below zero.

In urban hydrangea houses, a warmed loggia is useful. It is not scary if the temperature drops to 12 degrees for a short time (some varieties can withstand up to 5C). But on the coldest nights on the loggia, you need to turn on the heating. Believe me, this is not a problem. Sometimes it is enough to open the door to the loggia so that warm air comes out of the room. Or turn on the standard heater.

So, a way has been found! In containers, hydrangeas reliably hibernate, bloom early and bloom profusely.

PREPARATION OF HYDENSIAS FOR WINTERING

It is very important to properly prepare the hydrangea for wintering indoors. They often make the mistake of putting it in the basement too early. The cooling period is needed for the plant to go into a dormant state. Then the winter will pass quietly.

It is recommended to wait for natural leaf fall. This usually happens after the first frost. But freezes are different. In the northern regions, the temperature drops to 5 and below. This is dangerous due to the freezing of flower buds on the tops of the shoots, therefore, during frosts, hydrangea can be kept in a greenhouse. And in the suburbs, the drying of leaves after a short mo

rose is a signal that it is time to clean the hydrangea in the basement. If the leaves do not fall off, they need to be cut off.

It is desirable that it was already cool in the basement. In fact, we are transferring the plant from a cold street to a cold room, and there will be no temperature drop.

WINTER HYDRANIA

In winter, container plants are almost not watered. Just make sure the soil doesn't dry out completely. Occasionally, snow is placed in the pot or watered, but just a little.

Sometimes they make the mistake of placing the pot in a bag to reduce moisture evaporation. The soil in the bag "suffocates" and the roots can rot. To preserve moisture, it is better to put sphagnum moss in a pot. It is very good if it is not only on the surface. When planting moss is advised to add to the soil.

AND IT'S SPRING AGAIN!

In March, you can get hydrangea from the basement. It is good if the temperature increase occurs gradually. We begin to increase watering. First time to water warm water, at the second watering, add fertilizer, for example, Fertiku.

If during the winter the soil was very compacted, turned gray, then the hydrangea must be transplanted. Before this, water the plant well and only after a day start transplanting.

We take out hydrangeas in open ground only when severe frosts have passed. You can do this in April, but be sure to cover it with spunbond, or keep it in a greenhouse.

All our efforts can go down the drain if the flower buds freeze in the spring. They will only bloom remontant varieties capable of laying buds on annual shoots (photo 5). But in this case, flowering will take place no earlier than August. Hydrangeas that have wintered in the basement are already blooming in June!

CONTAINER SELECTION

Which pots are suitable for growing flowers in container culture?

I use plastic or ceramic, but not glazed. plastic pots easier. This is essential when bushes grow. Lowering a pot of more than 10 liters into the cellar is not an easy task.

Good drainage holes are a must. Ceramic pots usually have one hole small size, with prolonged rains this is not enough. I prefer special plastic containers with several drainage holes.

In the summer, the pot can be dug into the ground so that it does not overheat. In a wet summer (like this year), the pots can be placed under a canopy or on a veranda, the flowers retain their decorative effect longer. This is another advantage of containers. The location of the plant is easy to change if the weather or design intent requires it.

Large-leaved hydrangea is a real beauty. Juicy green leaves and large caps bright inflorescences make it a real decoration of the garden, but there is one “but”: the heat-loving beauty does not always winter safely in the open field. Very often, even in the presence of shelter, the shoots of the bush freeze slightly and this deprive gardeners of the pleasure of admiring the flowering next season, and in fact it is the main advantage of the plant. However, not everything is so sad and there is a good way to avoid such a situation and save flower buds - this is to grow hydrangea as a pot culture. Of course, this changes her care a little, but, in general, special trouble will not deliver, even more so, it is much easier to care for a compact bush. But what exactly needs to be done, we’ll talk about it today.

When to transplant hydrangea after purchase?

Most flower growers go in search of new green pets after the end of winter. Toward the end of spring in nurseries or flower shops hydrangea also appears - seedlings are usually sold in containers, and often even with buds. Having acquired such a bush, you don’t need to do anything special with it: in such a pot, the plant may well be until the end of summer, and on outdoors, and although the soil is transportable, for the first time it will cope with its task. Naturally, you need to monitor the humidity and prevent the soil from drying out.

But with the advent of autumn, already in early September, it will be necessary to prepare the hydrangea for wintering indoors, and at the same time transplant it.

What kind of soil to plant?

For often, ready-made soil mixtures containing the necessary nutrients are purchased. For potted hydrangea, it is better to prepare such a substrate yourself by mixing:

• coniferous bedding;
• garden soil;

The resulting soil mixture will satisfy the plant's need for fertile soil, and (importantly) for the right level of acidity.

When and where to clean the hydrangea for the winter?

After transplanting, the bush should not be immediately brought into the house - let it wait for the first frost. When, after the first cold night, the foliage withers and begins to fall off, the hydrangea can and should be taken from the street.

The optimum temperature for wintering hydrangeas is not lower than 5 degrees below zero and not higher than 10 degrees Celsius. It can be a basement or a cold terrace.

What to do with potted hydrangea in spring?

Around the end of March, the overwintered hydrangea must be taken out of the basement, spilled with warm water and fed. If necessary, the bush can be transplanted into a more spacious flowerpot, and after watering, be sure to mulch to delay the evaporation of moisture. Before "moving" to the street, the pot needs to find a bright place in the house.

For feeding it is better to use a special complex fertilizer for hydrangeas of prolonged action (in granules). As a mulch, coniferous litter or pine bark is well suited - rotting, it additionally acidifies the soil, and hydrangea loves it.

You can take the hydrangea into the garden not earlier than the end of April, or even in May, but at first, take it into the house at night or cover it with agrofiber so that the bush does not suffer from recurrent frosts.

Particular attention should be paid to the location of the hydrangea in the garden, because she does not like too much bright lighting from which flowers fade. As long as there are no buds, the east side is best. And during flowering, it is worth removing the bush completely under a canopy so that the sun hits it only in the evening.

How and what to water?

Like any pot culture, hydrangea needs frequent watering Moreover, the earth in a pot should be wet all the time, but there are some nuances here. flower prefers rain water, but it is better to make it artificially. If you leave the flowerpot in the rain, the buds will get wet, become heavy and may even break, and the bush will lose its shape.

How to cut?

Hydrangeas under the age of 6 years can not be cut, only during the summer, periodically remove faded inflorescences (the cut must be done before the first bud). And for older bushes, the main pruning is carried out in the spring, mainly thinning, removing shoots that thicken the crown. You can not touch the tops of the branches - they will bloom.

Video on how to keep a large-leaved hydrangea as a pot culture