How to process strawberries in the fall? Proper transplantation and necessary care. Processing strawberries in autumn Autumn processing strawberries with copper sulphate

Garden strawberries (traditionally called strawberries by the people) are a favorite delicacy not only of our children and grandchildren, but also of numerous insects that live in abundance in their summer cottage. The mechanical destruction of these pests is not always possible, it is often necessary to call for chemical means of protection. In addition, the culture is susceptible to diseases that lead to a decrease in yield or even death of plants. Safe for humans, but quite effective remedies for the fight can often be made from well-known substances.

The need for processing strawberries

Calendula is a good insecticide for strawberries

You can not leave in the winter and strawberry mites. If you want to do without chemistry, you can shed the bed several times a week with an infusion of onion peel. To do this, pour about 200 g of husk with a bucket of water, leave for 3-4 days, strain.

If there are many different pests, but the situation is not yet critical, immediately after the last berry picking, you can try to mow all the leaves and burn them. Many people do this with 3-4 year old strawberry plantations anyway. It is good if, after mowing, the sun fries the remains of the bushes for several days. After that, it is necessary to water the bed well, preferably with the addition of fertilizers: phosphorus and potash. The foliage will grow back quickly and be much healthier.

If there were a lot of rotten berries, the bushes after harvesting can be treated with mustard infusion (100 g per bucket of water, leave for 2 days, filter and dilute twice). If you are not very afraid of "chemistry", instead of mustard, you can take copper oxychloride and follow the instructions for the drug.

In the case of powdery mildew, one of the best solutions would be to spray with a solution of Topaz. In the fight against fungal diseases, Bordeaux liquid is very effective.

How to process strawberries

The range of drugs for pest and disease control on strawberry plantations is huge. Over time, new chemicals appear, and old ones multiply their names: many businessmen produce well-known drugs under their own name. It's getting harder and harder to figure out what's for sale. Fortunately, in most situations it is quite possible to get by with the well-known drugs themselves, or even “home” remedies.

Ammonia is an aqueous solution of ammonia and has a strong pungent odor. Ammonia dissolves in water at room temperature at a concentration of about 25%, which is quite a lot, and it is still dangerous to use such a solution in everyday life and in a summer cottage. In case of contact with the skin, it should be washed off immediately with plenty of water. But, as a rule, less concentrated solutions are sold in hardware stores.

Most often, a 10% ammonia solution goes on open sale.

It is known that ammonia water (a highly diluted solution of ammonia) is an excellent nitrogen fertilizer. But ammonia can also be used to prevent many diseases. garden plants. Most crops can be sprayed with it after flowering has ended. After treating strawberries with ammonia, ants, aphids, nematodes, and other pests do not appear on the beds for a long time. With regular spraying, you can also get rid of the weevil, root nematode, May beetle.

It is believed that during the season it is necessary to treat strawberries with ammonia three times:

• first processing - in early spring, with the growth of green leaves. On a bucket of water take 40 ml of ammonia (an aqueous solution of ammonia with a concentration of 10%). Plentifully water the bed from the watering can. The solution should at the same time get on the bushes, and on the soil under them. At the same time, in addition to fertilizer, they get rid of fungal diseases on the leaves and pests that wintered in the ground;
• the second treatment - after flowering. They take quite a bit of ammonia on a bucket of water, only 2-3 tbsp. l. After abundant watering, a bed with strawberries is watered with a watering can with the prepared solution. It is a defense against most diseases. In addition, the second treatment is also a timely nitrogen fertilization;
• the third time - after the harvest. The solution is used the same composition as in the spring. This is charging and prevention for the next season.

Iodine is a weak oxidizing agent, perfectly disinfects in most cases, due to its antiseptic properties it can prevent the appearance of various bacterial diseases.

Iodine can be used to prevent bacterial diseases

By watering strawberries with an iodine solution in early spring, you can get rid of weevils that can destroy almost the entire crop. It is necessary to prepare a solution of only 0.5 tsp. pharmacy alcohol solution of iodine in a bucket of water. First, the bushes are abundantly watered with water, and then treated with the prepared solution.

Iodine in strawberry beds is also used to combat gray rot and red spot. Strawberries are sprayed 3 times per season: in early spring, before flowering and in early autumn. To the solution described above, you can add a little liquid soap(about 1 tsp) so that it sticks to the leaves better.

It is believed that iodine is an effective immunomodulator: after its use, not only an increased yield should be observed, but also an improvement in the bushes, as well as an increase in the keeping quality of grown berries.

Hydrogen peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (formerly known as hydrogen peroxide) has unique properties. In the fight against pests and diseases of strawberries, its oxidizing (disinfecting) ability is most important.

Most likely, you can only purchase a 3% peroxide solution. A 30% solution ("perhydrol") is quite dangerous to handle.

Hydrogen peroxide consists of only two elements, but has unique properties

Hydrogen peroxide in the summer cottage is used in the processing of greenhouses, various containers, tools. The drug kills bacteria, viruses, pathogenic fungi. So what is better to choose for rot treatment - peroxide or iodine? Actually, the choice is yours. Depending on what is at hand. Peroxide leaves behind water and oxygen, iodine - potassium or sodium iodides. But their number, which is formed after the introduction of these drugs, is so small that it makes little sense to pay attention to this aspect. And with their disinfectant task, both drugs do an excellent job.

Hydrogen peroxide is probably the easiest and safest way to keep strawberries from rotting. It should be dissolved in 1 liter of water 2 tbsp. l. hydrogen peroxide (in severe cases - up to 3 tablespoons). The resulting solution is abundantly sprayed with all plantings of strawberries early in the morning or in the evening. The treatment is repeated after 1 week. This drug in the quantities used is completely non-toxic to both humans and bees. Therefore, you can collect and eat berries within a few hours after processing.

Bordeaux liquid is a suspension prepared from copper sulfate and lime (calcium oxide or hydroxide). When they interact, sparingly soluble copper hydroxide and calcium sulfate are formed, so handling the finished suspension is somewhat more difficult than with the solution: periodically shake the contents of the sprayer. As a rule, a kit is sold containing both components of the mixture, and often indicator paper to control the correct preparation of the liquid. First, according to the instructions, two solutions are prepared separately, and then they are carefully mixed, controlling the acidity of the medium by the indicator. To create a neutral or slightly alkaline environment, add required amount lime (in the form of "milk of lime").

Unappetizing-looking Bordeaux liquid is actually quite poisonous

Bordeaux liquid, unlike pure copper sulphate, adheres well to plants, acts more gently and for a long time. However, the mixture must be prepared strictly before use.

Bordeaux liquid has low toxicity for people, warm-blooded animals, and bees. However, it is known that copper, like any heavy metal, does not add health to a person in high doses, to put it mildly. Therefore, in recent years, the concept has arisen that the annual spraying of Bordeaux mixture leads to excessive accumulation of copper in the soil. Therefore, the use of copper preparations in the summer cottage is advised only in case of urgent need, no more than once every few years.

A 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid for processing strawberries in early spring is used to prevent leaf spot. Later (closer to flowering, as well as in autumn), a 1% solution is already used for this purpose. Dosage - approximately 1.5 liters of liquid mixture per 10 m 2 of strawberry plantation. It is better to carry out the processing after harvesting and cleaning the beds from weeds and excess leaves. Spraying with this drug is carried out no more than 2 times per season.

Boric acid

Boric acid - weak, practically safe to handle, apply great harm man cannot. It's a powder white color, slowly soluble in water, a valuable source of boron - an important trace element, therefore, fertilizer plays a role in the garden, first of all. This is especially important when cultivating strawberries on soddy-podzolic and light soils. Spraying bushes in early spring with a solution of boric acid is very favorable. There is an increase in the number of ovaries, boron stimulates the emergence of new growth points, the berries become sweeter. The introduction of boric acid can increase productivity, improve the sugar content of berries, and help protect plants from pathogenic microbes.

Usually boric acid is used together with potassium permanganate (the well-known "potassium permanganate").

Potassium permanganate is the strongest oxidizing agent, and it should be used in the smallest possible quantities.

So, in early spring, planting strawberries is shed with a solution of boric acid and potassium permanganate - 1 g per bucket of water. This volume is for feeding 30-40 strawberry bushes.

For foliar feeding of strawberries in the spring, the following composition is used: 2 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid are taken per bucket of water, 1 tbsp. oven ash. From the ashes, only a useful "hood" is needed. Therefore, it is insisted for a day in a separate container with water, not forgetting to stir from time to time. Before use, the infusion of ash should be filtered.

Ash

Ash is widely used as an individual "improvised" drug. A water "extract" from wood ash obtained from burning wood in a stove or on a fire is well suited for fertilizing strawberries.

Wood ash should be used as a fertilizer, and not the one that is formed after burning various household waste.

The ash contains most of the elements necessary for the development of strawberries (there is, perhaps, only nitrogen). These are phosphorus, potassium, calcium, many trace elements. In addition, wood ash is famous for its antibacterial and antiseptic properties. Thanks to the ash, the berries become sweeter, their keeping quality increases. Ash can be scattered between the rows in the garden. The best time for this is the pre-rain period. After the rain, the most valuable thing in the ashes will pass into the soil. It is good to mulch the beds immediately after this.

Hot water

If you do not want to engage in chemical processing of a strawberry plantation, you can try to limit yourself to a physical one. The first thing that comes to mind is, of course, thermal disinfection. It is known that gooseberry and currant bushes are watered with almost boiling water in early spring. At the same time, most pests and pathogenic bacteria are destroyed. Of course, such a number is dangerous with strawberries: after all, it comes out of winter with green leaves! Therefore, they do not take boiling water, but simply hot water.

In the first decade of April hot water(temperature 60–65 o C, it is best to check with a thermometer) strawberry plantations are watered. They heat water, of course, not far from the beds, scoop up any convenient utensils and quickly pour it into the center of the bush, capturing all the leaves if possible. Hot processing destroys the larvae of the transparent mite, raspberry-strawberry weevil, sawflies, mites and nematodes. Water, having passed through the soil to a depth of several centimeters, cools down to about 30 ° C, so you should not be afraid that the strawberry roots will be damaged.

Hot water also helps when planting strawberries. With its help, it is possible to disinfect seedlings (whiskers) for a preventive purpose. To do this, immerse the seedlings in water heated to 45 ° C and hold for 15 minutes.

Fire

It looks like barbarism, but such methods of struggle are also found on the network.

Mustaches begin to grow actively 10 days after harvest. I will wait another 4 days, when the earth dries up in the rows and between the rows, I cut off all the leaves, mustaches with pruners, and remove the weeds. At the same time, with a powerful blowtorch that was previously kindled, I burn the ground and completely burn the leaf stalks remaining after cutting to ashes. I put the cut leaves and weeds in the compost. I also burn strawberry hearts, they are not afraid of being treated with fire for 10-20 seconds if they grow at or near the ground level. Only those that have crawled out of the ground, so that the roots are visible, will disappear.

Postnikov P.

http://chudo-ogorod.ru/zemlyanika-obrabotka-i-udobreniya

Remedies for weevil

They begin the fight in the spring, for which all damaged fragments of the bush must be carefully collected and destroyed. In the first days of May, the plantation is treated with long-acting biological preparations (Iskra, Askarin). Protection of plantings from the pest continues for several weeks. In case of severe infection, the second treatment is performed in the fall. At the same time, powerful insecticides are already being used, such as Karbofos, Corsair.

If you do not use chemistry, it is much more difficult to fight the weevil. Basic tricks:

• treatment of bushes with hot water in early spring;
• during the budding period - spraying with a solution laundry soap with mustard;
• manual collection of insects;
• spraying with infusion of tansy or red capsicum;
• the use of good "neighbors" in the garden: onions, garlic;
• processing with tobacco-garlic infusion or infusion of celandine and onion peel.

Video: how and how to process strawberries

All the long winter we are waiting for the harvest of vitamin plants to finally appear in our garden. And in June a holiday comes: strawberries ripen - a juicy, sweet, fragrant berry. But besides us, competitors are waiting for her - garden pests. What means to choose in the fight against them is up to you. In most cases, you can earn the right to a wonderful strawberry harvest without the use of toxic drugs.

Previously, only strawberries were grown in Russia - a fragrant and tasty berry, but small and not very productive, so today this plant is almost never found in garden plots. It was replaced by large-fruited strawberries, brought by sailors to Europe from America. One of its varieties called "Victoria" began to spread with particular speed, and soon all strawberries began to be called Victoria. To get a rich harvest of tasty and healthy berries, you need to know the rules for planting and growing Victoria in open ground.

Victoria landing time

The best time to plant strawberries is spring or autumn. In the spring, plants are planted as early as possible - immediately after warm weather is established and the threat of return frosts disappears. In autumn, Victoria should be planted from the second half of August until September 15, and then in the next planting season they will be pleased with the first berry.

Seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in cassettes or containers, can be planted as early as mid-July. The main thing is to choose a cloudy day for planting and moisten the soil well. Seedlings planted in summer will have time to take root well before winter and will give a full harvest next spring.

Some gardeners grow planting material with their own hands, although this is a long and laborious process. Indeed, to obtain a full-fledged independent plant, it will take at least three years. Therefore, experts advise buying seedlings in well-known nurseries, and preferably in cassettes or containers. This is the most reliable and fastest way to grow crops.

Site selection

The site designated for Victoria should be sunny and have a flat surface with a slight slope to the southwest. It is not worth choosing steep slopes for planting this crop, from which the wind blows snow in winter, and spring waters carry away part of the fertile layer. Lowlands and depressions, where melt water is kept for a long time, are unsuitable for strawberry cultivation.

The soil on the site should contain a lot of organic matter. It is best to grow this berry in open field light loams, black earth or gray forest soil are suitable. Groundwater should lie no closer than 1 m to the surface of the earth.

Victoria is growing well after herbs, cereals, onions, garlic, petunias, marigolds. You should not plant a berry on the beds where tomatoes, eggplants, and cucumbers previously grew. After 3-4 years, the plants are transferred to a new place.

spring planting

For the spring planting of Victoria, the soil must be prepared in advance, even before the onset of winter. The site must be carefully dug up, weeds removed and the following fertilizers applied to each square meter of area:

• humus - 9-10 kg;
• superphosphate - 100 g;
• potassium salt - 50g.

Seedlings for planting in the spring should be selected strong and healthy. Before planting in the ground, it should be hardened for several days by placing it in a cool place.

Between plants located in the same row, 25-30 cm are left. To ensure ease of care, the beds are separated by passages 40-50 cm wide.

Before planting, the roots of the plant are cut to 10 cm and holes are dug to such a depth that the root system fits vertically. Particular attention when planting Victoria should be paid to the location of the neck of the bush.

The neck of the bush should be flush with the soil surface. With a high planting, the roots can dry out, and with a very strong penetration, the plant can rot.

The planted plant is watered abundantly and covered with a special material to protect it from frost or sunburn.

Planting in autumn

Autumn planting of seedlings of strawberries is considered optimal, since in the spring of next year a full-fledged harvest can be harvested from young bushes. Plants planted in early spring will also begin to bear fruit the following season, but they will have to be cared for all summer.

Before autumn planting, treat and prepare the site in early spring, making necessary fertilizers. If every piece of land is valuable in the garden, these beds can be temporarily occupied by onions, garlic or celery, that is, early ripening vegetables.

Before planting seedlings in open ground, the roots should be treated with a fungicide (fungicide) and the young plants should be kept in a cool place for several days.

Victoria cultivation

In the first year after planting Victoria in the ground, do not strive to get a big harvest. On the contrary, in order for the plant to strengthen and grow the root system, it is necessary to remove the tendrils and flowers that appear.

Caring for adult plants involves a number of activities.

1. Processing a plot with strawberries. In early spring, as soon as the growing season begins, it is necessary to collect old mulching material from the beds and aisles, remove dry and damaged leaves, and loosen the soil between the plants.
2. Watering. Large juicy fruits cannot be obtained without proper, balanced watering. Moisture should be enough for the normal growth of the plant, and at the same time, strong waterlogging of the soil can provoke rotting of the root system. Victoria is watered 1 time in 10 days at the rate of 10-12 liters per 1 sq. m from mid-April. IN summer period, with the onset of heat, the frequency of watering can be increased up to 4 times a week. In autumn, in August and September, the number of waterings is reduced to 2 times a week. Carry out watering work better in the morning, trying not to get water on the leaves and peduncles. During flowering, drip irrigation is used.
3. Loosening. After the next watering, the earth around the plants and between the rows must be carefully loosened, trying not to damage the adventitious roots lying near the surface of the earth. This is necessary in order to make the soil breathable and facilitate the flow of oxygen into the root system.
4. Weeding. Planting care involves the regular removal of weeds from the beds and passages. Weed grass not only depletes the soil, taking most of the moisture and nutrients, but is also a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria and a refuge for pests. To stop the appearance of weeds, you can cover the area with plantings with mulching material: sawdust, wood chips, dry needles - or close it with agrofiber.

These are the main activities that should be regularly carried out by every gardener involved in growing Victoria in open areas.

Care during flowering

The appearance of the first flower stalks falls in mid-May. It is during this period that the future harvest is laid, the quality and quantity of which depends on the correct care. To feed the plant during this period, potash fertilizers, humus and ash are introduced into the soil. You can increase the number of inflorescences with a solution of boric acid, prepared at the rate of 1 tsp. on a bucket of water, which is sprayed with green bushes.

It is especially important to weed and loosen the site, preventing the emergence and growth of weeds. To get a large berry, you need to use a pruner to remove all the extra tendrils and leaves that absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil.

Feeding Victoria

Care for Victoria is impossible to imagine without feeding this plant. Fertilizers should be applied at least three times per season.

• In early spring, after processing the area allotted for the berry, nitroammophoska is introduced into the soil. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, which are part of this fertilizer, are the most necessary substances for plant development.
• During budding, potassium is added to the soil, a large amount of which is found in ash, infusion of chicken manure, and potassium nitrate. After picking the berries, the plants are again fed with nitroammophos, dissolving 2 tbsp. l. in 10 liters of water.
• And the last time Victoria is fed in August with urea. This contributes to the formation of new flower buds and more abundant fruiting next year. The solution is prepared at the rate of 30 g of urea per 10 liters of water.

Available for sale complex fertilizer, developed specifically for strawberries and increasing yields by 30%.

Growing Victoria is an incredibly useful and interesting activity, although it requires certain skills and knowledge. Having studied the advice of experts and providing proper care for plants, it will not be difficult to get a decent harvest of this delicious berry.

The best time to plant a new strawberry bed is the end of May, since young seedlings will have time to get stronger over the summer and turn into strong bushes. For those who expect to get the first harvest in May, planting Victoria in the fall is recommended.

Strawberries propagate by rooting mustaches that form on bushes in mid-summer. Young curly shoots with leaf rosettes at the ends are slightly grounded and take root near the mother bush, and in August-September they are separated and transplanted to a prepared garden bed. Planting Victoria in the fall is optimal due to suitable weather conditions, since in the first half of September it is no longer hot, quite humid and far from frost. In addition, a rainy day does not at all prevent the laying of a new bed, but contributes to better rooting of strawberries.

Proper planting of Victoria is carried out in well-prepared soil. For a new garden bed, it is better to choose a place that is freed from onions, garlic, dill, spinach, lettuce and other greens in the middle of summer. Peas or beans are considered good predecessors, and at the same time green manure. You can grow other green manure for strawberries, it is advisable to choose those that grow quickly and form a sufficient vegetative mass - phacelia, oil radish, mustard, rapeseed and others. By the time the mustache is rooted, the grown green manure will already become an excellent organic fertilizer.

Instead of green manure, you can fertilize the bed for strawberries with potash-phosphorus fertilizers, make compost. Before planting, it is recommended to dip the roots of seedlings in a solution of mullein diluted in a ratio of 1: 3. An approximate Victoria planting pattern is 30x60 cm, where 30 is the distance between the holes, and 60 is between the rows. 2-3 rooted shoots can be planted in each hole to eliminate empty spaces in case of failure.

The rest of the planting of Victoria in the fall is carried out similarly to spring. It is important to choose the right depth of the hole so that the root system is completely hidden underground, and the growth bud is on the soil surface. A young bed needs to be properly watered, loosen the soil between the rows. Be sure to mulch with sawdust or straw to protect from the cold and the first frost.

Planting Victoria in the fall can be done on agrofibre. To do this, the soil with ready-made holes is covered with a special cloth that allows moisture and air to pass through, but prevents moisture from evaporating. The agrotextile fabric is fixed by driving in pegs, cuts are made at the locations of the holes, where the plants are carefully placed along with the ground on the roots. We water the young garden.

Agrofibre protects strawberries from some pests, prevents the appearance of weeds, and most importantly, it will reliably protect Victoria in winter, acting as a reliable insulation. Berries of strawberries grown with the help of agrotextiles are always clean and appetizing looking, they are easy and convenient to pick - it is enough to mulch the aisle of the beds with sawdust.

In the spring, you need to take care of the young bed: remove last year's withered leaves, loosen the ground, mulch with sawdust to protect it from possible frosts.

Collecting a lot of large berries, peeping through a carpet of juicy green foliage and exuding a wonderful aroma, is the dream of any summer resident. Its execution is within the power of every owner of a personal plot, one has only to take into account the features that Victoria planting has and competently care for the plants. They will certainly thank a caring owner with a generous harvest. Under the proud name of "Victoria" lies the familiar strawberry. Initially, only one of its varieties was called that - the one that sailors brought to Russia from America. Over time, there were more varieties of strawberries, among them remontant ones appeared, capable of bearing fruit from 3 to 5 months a year. But in some areas, the name has taken root so much that it has become a household name.

Requirements for the site and soil quality

For growing Victoria in the garden, you should choose an open place that receives the most sunlight. Strawberries develop well on flat or inclined at a slight angle to the west areas. Essential for plant health reliable protection wind landings. In spring and summer, it is not terrible for Victoria, but in winter it can blow off the snow that protects it from freezing.

You can count on a rich harvest if the crop is grown on light, soft, porous soils with a significant admixture of sand. Victoria is moisture-loving, but she reacts badly to stagnant water, so she needs well-drained soil. Raw swampy lowlands are categorically not suitable for breeding strawberries. It is not recommended to plant it in areas prone to flooding and in places where water from melted snow stands for a long time in spring.

Remontant Victoria is demanding on soil fertility, it should contain a lot of humus. The ideal option for her is black soil or dark gray forest soil. But even in other conditions, strawberries can successfully develop if their bushes are properly cared for. heavy clay soil that retains moisture will need to be diluted with manure or humus and sand. Carry out the procedure in the fall. Soil with an acidic reaction must be limed.

You should not plant Victoria in areas where any plants from the Asteraceae family (sunflower, earthen pear, lettuce, asters, chrysanthemums) were placed last season. It is undesirable, but it is possible to breed it after all nightshades (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants), as well as cucumbers. But the areas freed up after harvesting cereals, legumes (beans, peas), cabbage crops (radish, radish, mustard), garlic and parsley are very good for Victoria. Before planting, they must be dug up, enriching the earth with fertilizers. On 1 m² of surface it will be correct to apply:

• 2 buckets of humus;
• 2 liters of wood ash.

Strawberry seedlings and nutritional composition of the following components will provide the necessary organic and mineral substances:

• ammonium nitrate (20 g);
• superphosphate (25 g);
• potassium salt (20 g);
• humus (6 kg).

Preparation for disembarkation

With regard to planting dates, Victoria provides summer residents with ample opportunities. It is propagated from spring to autumn. Professionals advise planting strawberries in late April or May, when warm weather has already set in. If you provide young bushes with proper care, in the spring they will quickly take root in a new place, they will get sick less and in June they will bring the first berries.

For planting, the strongest rosettes with a powerful root system are selected.

It will be easier to care for Victoria if you prepare the site for her in advance. In the fall, they dig it up, choosing weeds, and fertilizing. Remontant strawberries can please with berries from May to October, but for stable fruiting it will need a lot of nutrients. Therefore, in the spring, the soil is re-enriched with rotted manure (10 liters of substance per 1 m²). Do this 17-20 days before planting.

It is correct to carry out autumn reproduction of Victoria from the second half of August to the first decade of September, when the probability of frost is minimal. While it is warm, the plants will have time to take root and steadfastly withstand the cold. Care for strawberries at this time will not be burdensome, it is enough just to plant sockets in the ground prepared in advance - from June. If a remontant variety of culture is chosen for breeding, its features must be taken into account. Constant fruiting greatly weakens the plants, so young bushes of such a Victoria often die in the first year of life. You will have to take better care of them.

Landing Rules

Most often, strawberries are bred with a mustache, which its bushes release by mid-summer. Young shoots of Victoria appear from the nodes located on them. Experienced summer residents it is advised to plant sockets that are closer to the mother bush - the first 2-3. Shoots obtained from 2-year-old plants have the highest survival rate.

When 4-6 leaves appear on the rosettes, they are separated from the mustache, carefully removing the roots along with the earthy clod, and placed in a hole previously spilled with water. The depth of the hole is usually 10-15 cm. It may vary depending on the degree of development of the underground part of the plant. For adult bushes with powerful and long roots, it is better to make deeper holes. To remontant strawberry easier to take root in a new place, before being placed on the garden bed, its roots must be dipped in clay talker. It is prepared by mixing two components with water to a creamy state:

• 1 bucket of clay;
• ½ bucket of mullein.

It will be easier to take care of plantings if you place strawberry bushes in rows. Many summer residents prefer to pour peculiar ridges for them up to 10 cm in height. The distance between adjacent plants should be 30-40 cm, and the interval between rows should be 60-70 cm. Soil is poured into the hole, a Victoria bush is lowered on it and its roots are carefully spread in different directions. The hole is then filled with soil. It is correct that the root neck of the bush rises slightly above the ground or is flush with it. The soil is slightly compacted and the hole is watered abundantly.

When planting, you can add special preparations to the hole to promote rapid rooting.

Garden remontant strawberries respond well to soil mulching. A layer of dry grass, foliage, algae, hay, small straw, needles will help maintain the level of soil moisture required by the culture. After planting, they are recommended to cover the space under the plants and between the rows. Carried out in the spring, care in the form of mulching will have a positive effect on the yield of Victoria: strawberries will bring more berries, and they will ripen faster.

Features of agricultural technology

Growing Victoria will not require special skills, but you will have to pay attention to planting. Their care includes standard procedures:

• watering;
• weeding;
• mulching;
• top dressing;
• loosening.

Both remontant and ordinary strawberries are sensitive to drying out of the soil, reacting to it with a decrease in yield, therefore they moisten it often. You can significantly increase the time interval between waterings if you regularly loosen the soil, mulch the beds, and take snow retention measures in early spring. Care in the form of moisturizing Victoria is required from 4 to 10 times per season, depending on weather conditions. The end of summer and the beginning of autumn is an important period in the life of plants: flower buds are laid in them. If you do not water the plantings at this time, it is better not to pin hopes for a good harvest next year.

During the Victoria season, at least three top dressings with complex mineral fertilizer are required. Suitable for her and organic compounds. Experienced gardeners recommend using mullein diluted in a ratio of 1:10 for it. It is better to pour it on moist soil. Two top dressings are carried out in the spring: after harvesting the withered leaves and when the first flower stalks appear. At this time, plantings require intensive care, the quality and quantity of the crop depends on the correctness of which. To enhance flowering and increase the number of ovaries, strawberries are sprayed with an aqueous solution of boric acid. Do this while there are no buds on the bushes yet. When the flower stalks come forward and the berries begin to set, they are treated with zinc sulfate.

To get more large berries, during the ripening period, Victoria's mustache is cut off.

After the plantings fade, they do not stop caring for them. The distance between plants and under them is mulched with straw, sawdust or dry moss. This measure will not allow gray rot to damage the crop. Having collected the last berries from the bushes, they begin the third feeding. After it, the soil is well loosened. If the roots of plants peep out of the soil, it is necessary to spud the plantings. In anticipation of autumn frosts, another mulching is carried out using peat, humus or grain waste. They are laid in a thick layer, not less than 5-8 cm. To protect the strawberries from freezing, they throw dry leaves, straw on the beds or cover them with spruce branches.


It is impossible to resist the tasty and healthy Victoria berries, which is why its cultivation has become a tradition for most summer residents. They are good not only fresh, there are a lot of recipes for winter preparations from garden strawberries. Here and compotes, and jams, and jam, and preserves, and jelly, and marmalade. Victoria fruits can be dried, frozen, closed in their own juice, syrups, liqueurs, wine can be made from them. They are combined with other fruits and berries - red currants, gooseberries, apricots, peaches, raspberries.

Strawberries cannot be called a capricious culture, although you will have to spend time and effort on caring for it. But they will definitely pay off. Subject to simple recommendations, it will be possible to harvest from the bushes already in the first or second year of their life - depending on the variety chosen.

Garden strawberries, often called Victoria, have gained wide popularity and distribution in the gardens of various regions of the country. This is due to the ease of its reproduction, the precocity of the culture, the convenience of protection from the harsh weather conditions of winter, the high dietary and taste qualities of the berries. Many gardeners receive high yields of Victoria every year, having mastered its agricultural technology well.

Soil and landing site for victoria

It is necessary to plant a plant on a piece of land with a slight slope to the west. The place must be protected from the winds. Indeed, in winter, Victoria is covered with snow from frost, which means that in no case should it be blown away by the wind. A bare berry can freeze and die. It is desirable to choose sandy soil rich in humus.

Others are added to it fertilizer. It is better to apply fertilizers in the fall, spreading them evenly and digging them with a shovel. In the spring, shallow loosening is necessary in order to level the surfaces and close the moisture. For one square meter of soil where strawberries will be planted, you will need:

• twenty grams of potassium chloride;
• twenty grams of ammonium nitrate;
• twenty-five grams of superphosphate;
• six kilograms of humus.

It is best to alternate landing Victoria with vegetable crops. The best predecessors for this berry are: green spaces (dill, parsley, lettuce), legumes, garlic, onions, root crops. And it is not advisable to plant it after potatoes, as the plant can get sick with a nematode.

Reproduction and planting

By the middle of summer, antennae grow in adult Victoria plants, on which nodules are located, giving roots and leaves in the future. With the help of such antennae, Victoria breeds. Three sockets located at mother plant are considered to be of higher quality. When four to six leaves appear on such a rosette, it should be separated from the mother plant for planting in a permanent prepared place. In order for the plant to take root quickly and well, it is necessary to dig sockets with a clod of earth.

Many gardeners plant strawberries in beds eighty to one hundred centimeters wide and up to fifteen centimeters high. The edges of such beds can be edged with boards, and the aisles can be covered with sawdust.

Victoria is planted during the entire vegetative period from the beginning of spring to the middle of the last month of summer. Landing dates are determined by the readiness of the sockets.

For the spring period, sockets are grown on seedling beds or added dropwise near the mother bush. In this case, Victoria will bear fruit already this year, albeit slightly.

Very common tape two-row landing pattern. In this case, the distance between the rows in the tape is about forty centimeters, between the tapes themselves up to eighty centimeters, and between the plants from twenty to thirty centimeters. In this case, up to ten plants are placed on one square meter.

Planting density depends on the Victoria variety and growing conditions.

Before planting seedlings, you should dig grooves or holes up to ten centimeters deep and water them well. Then plant seedlings in them and water them well again.

It is best to plant in cloudy weather or in the evening. This improves survival.

In order to properly care for young seedlings of Victoria, you should not forget it on time. water. During the first two weeks, watering should be especially regular. If the weather is dry, then watering should be daily, and only then once every two or three days.

How to care for mature victoria bushes

Spring chores

How to care for Victoria in the summer

1. Weekly watering of plants.
2. Weeding beds with Victoria from weeds.
3. Mandatory inspection of plants for diseases and pests.
4. When the first berries begin to tie, be sure to add straw or sawdust. Then the fruits will not get dirty and rot.
5. Mandatory removal of damage to parts of the Victoria or the damaged bush itself so that other plants do not become infected from it.
6. Before flowering, top dressing with a solution of nitrophoska or potassium sulfate.
7. Berries must be collected regularly, along with the stalk.
8. After harvesting Victoria, until the tenth of August, the bushes should be fed with wood ash and nitrophoska.
9. Cover the beds with foil during heavy rains so that diseases do not develop and the berries do not become watery.
10. The antennae should be removed from the fruiting Victoria in a timely manner in order to prevent the rooting of rosettes. The tendrils are left only if seedlings are needed to resume planting. Leave them near the uterine outlets.
11. After harvesting, the soil is loosened, and if the roots are bare, then the bush is spudded.

Autumn work or preparing Victoria for winter

Protection from pests and diseases

An important role in the care of Victoria is its protection from diseases and pests. Of the pests of Victoria, the most common are strawberry mites and nematodes. And from diseases: gray rot of berries, powdery mildew and white spotting of berries. But how to care for Victoria to prevent this? To prevent such diseases and pests, you should:

Any gardener will sooner or later want to plant strawberries on his plot. But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest?

This question worries many gardeners who first planted this berry crop on their site. Is it difficult to care for this plant? At first glance, it might seem so. However, if we consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult. Of course, it can be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions on the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to it is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest.

To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes. Take a look at the photo attached below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. It is thanks to him that the reproduction of berry culture is possible. A mustache extends from the main strawberry bush. Rosettes appear on these processes - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this outlet will also turn into a mother bush.

Important! For reproduction, choose those shoots on which there are no more than three outlets. This will ensure the stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit.

As soon as the outlet begins to form, immediately gently stick its roots into the soil. So you provide the plant with a constant supply of important vital elements. After a while, when the bushes form, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you do not have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own.

Memo. Victoria should be planted in the middle of summer (in July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of the day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization.

What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit? No, you need to plant only those seedlings that have a formed root system, there are several leaves and a heart is developed. Therefore, if you are buying outlets, then pay attention to all these factors so that you do not get upset later because your plant has not been taken. In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then, before carefully tearing off the outlet from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots.

Of no small importance is the place chosen for landing Victoria. Berry culture develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Remember to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients. You can not plant a plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (the crop will be small).

Reminder! Do not plant strawberries in beds that are adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes. Also, do not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the neighborhood with corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds.

The plant does not like high humidity, low temperature and cold winds. Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places contribute to the fact that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered moisture-loving plant. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water the Victoria? It turned out that yes.

In the first month after planting, the plant must be watered into the holes. After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water. It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive abundant moisture. Many gardeners in this case do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the bed and fill it to the top. Yes, do not be greedy for water. For such generosity, Victoria will give you its large, tasty fruits. Here's what to do with this bountiful harvest.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need abundant watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant?

From spring, strawberries begin to grow intensively. If she is not given the necessary moisture during this period, then then one should not be surprised that the berries ripened small and dry. Watering continues until almost mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn season, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week. This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria should be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. In this case, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

The spring season is the busiest. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring?

You have just finished eating frozen strawberries, as spring comes to the yard, and with it it's time for you to go out to your site. Where to begin? To get started, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is nothing for them to take up space in the beds. Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes.

After carefully studying the bushes and removing the dead, proceed to the next step: remove upper layer the land with which you mulched Victoria last fall. What is it for? Firstly, various pests live in this layer, which have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the sun's rays.

When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes will please with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate to it. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

So, all the main work is done. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy?

In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in her fruiting. About what in question? Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from the stone or want to get a large Victoria fruit - the right and timely fertilizer in these matters will play a key role.

Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in spring (as mentioned above), but also before flowering and ripening. In the first case, it is advisable to feed strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of manure is poured with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days. The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a plentiful and large-fruited harvest.

In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how to best care for strawberries:

How to grow Victoria in the garden

Garden strawberry - a plant that is called strawberry, and sometimes Victoria, because this variety is most revered among the rest thanks to excellent taste and quality.

If you do not know how to grow Victoria, choose a strawberry variety based on the climate of your region. Victoria propagates by rooted bushes, which are formed on the stems of the shoots.

In this article, you will learn how to grow victoria in the garden, as well as how to plant victoria in the spring.

The time to grow Victoria must be chosen taking into account the climate of the area where you will plant it. If your region has a frosty winter with little snow, then it is better to plant Victoria in the spring. Then over the summer the plants will be able to get stronger. If your area has a milder climate, then you can postpone planting Victoria until autumn. If you want to get a crop in the first year, then you can plant young plants in the ground as early as July or August.

How to plant a Victoria?

In order for the plant to develop quickly and give a good quality crop, you need to grow Victoria in a well-consecrated area in a place where the soil is light and not marshy. Potatoes, peppers or tomatoes should grow on this soil for several years. If you want to plant Victoria in the spring, then the soil must be prepared in the fall. And during the summer or autumn planting strawberries, it is enough to prepare the soil one to two weeks before planting.

You need to dig up a piece of land, removing the roots of perennial weeds, grubs and wireworms. Otherwise, they will damage the roots of garden strawberries and it is better to get rid of this problem in advance. Next, you need to improve the structure of the soil, add a few kilograms of fertilizer and add sand to the soil.

Victoria should be planted in the spring in wet cloudy weather. The prepared bed should be watered a couple of days before planting quite abundantly.

How to grow Victoria in the garden?

When planting Victoria in the spring, you must separate the rooted rosettes from the shoots. In this case, it is important to dip the open roots of the rosettes in a mixture of heteroauxin, water and clay. Strawberries should be planted in rows, at a distance of about 60 cm from each other. Between the bushes, you also need to leave a gap of up to 30 cm. Before planting Victoria, you need to straighten the roots of the plant and sprinkle them with earth so that the growth point is not below the soil level.

After these steps, be sure to water the bed and sprinkle the soil with a layer of sawdust. If you have a mulching nonwoven, you can spread it out in the garden before planting, and secure the edges afterwards. Where the Victoria is located under the mulching material, you need to cut holes.

If you want to get a rich harvest of garden strawberries or Victoria several times a season, then you need to grow Victoria remontant varieties. In this species, the fruits are formed in just two to three weeks. At the same time, the first harvest can be obtained already on last year's inflorescences, and the second, the most abundant, in August-September.

Victoria belongs to rather heat-loving plants. A sharp drop in temperature in autumn can cause freezing of the entire above-ground part of the plant, especially in the absence of snow cover. And severe freezing of the soil can even cause the death of the roots.

Soil for victoria

There is nothing complicated in how to plant Victoria correctly. To grow Victoria, you can choose almost any soil on your garden plot. However, the relationship between yield and soil type, of course, exists.

Planting seedlings of victoria

Before planting, seedlings must be kept in a cool place for five days.

The best soil for growing victoria is moist but not wet soil.

During planting, it is important to ensure that the seedling box is in the shade at all times.

If you did everything right, then the root system will be located vertically, and the root neck will be at ground level.

Too long roots should be shortened to 10 cm, and then Victoria should be watered.

So that a crust does not form on the top layer of soil, it should be mulched with dry earth or humus.

It is important to ensure that the aisles are not overgrown with weeds, so the area under the Victoria must be cleared of pathogenic bacteria and pests. At present, the most popular is the protection of plants in the form of insect-entomophagous.

Victoria Care

Caring for Victoria in the garden involves loosening the beds and weeding. This must be done in dry weather. And after harvesting, the leaves must be removed, cut off the Victoria. The process of pruning on productive bushes, which takes place for several years without removing strong shoots with young rosettes. These sockets can be used to update Victoria next year.

Weeding Victoria is an important step in its cultivation and care, as this is what guarantees the appearance of quality berries. good taste and large size. If your strawberry rows become overgrown with weeds and the soil is hard, your strawberries may degenerate and cease to bear fruit. So, be sure to take care of Victoria - water, weed the rows and destroy the weed, monitor the condition of the garden to avoid the appearance of larvae.

How to grow Victoria

Victoria - delicious victory with little secrets

Greetings, dear readers!

One of the first varieties of the well-known garden strawberries is the Victoria berry. Victoria fruits have an unusual aroma, look beautiful and appetizing on a dish. Victoria is a berry that has many valuable properties and contains nutrients. It contains vitamin C. The name Victoria is very suitable for this berry. To feel the victory - you need to see a well-groomed garden of beautiful berries. And for this you need to properly care for the plant.

Let's talk about how to grow victoria in the garden area.

Victoria breeds with a mustache. They usually appear in the middle of summer. For further cultivation, plants use sockets located next to the mother bush. Mustaches from biennial plants are best suited. You need to plant a rosette with four leaves on the ridge, separating it from the common plant.

Victoria bushes are planted in spring or autumn. But at the same time, the site for landing is prepared in advance. For spring planting, beds are prepared in the fall, and for autumn - in the month of June, not forgetting to fertilize the ground. It is desirable to plant Victoria on level ground with a slope to the west. IN winter time snow should accumulate on the site so that the Victoria bushes do not die. In this regard, the bed must be positioned so that it is not strongly blown by the wind.

In order to plant bushes, it is necessary to make holes in the prepared bed, into which the mustache, dug together with a clod of soil, is placed. This must be done immediately, without leaving the outlet for the following days.

Berry - Victoria is susceptible to infection with gray rot. to prevent this disease, the soil on the ridge is mulched with wood shavings or straws, 10 cm thick. At the same time, the leaves of the plant do not fall asleep. When the crop is harvested, the ground around the berry bushes must be loosened. When the roots are exposed, the berry is spudded, regular weeding of Victoria is the key to getting a good harvest.

Before flowering, in order to prevent the disease of gray rot, it is necessary to spray with a solution of iodine.

Special requirements apply to watering bushes. Moderate watering of the plant will allow you to save a large amount of vitamin products. Without additional moisture, Victoria will grow if you cover it with snow in winter, carry out high-quality weeding, and make timely and regular loosening of the soil.

For today it's all about how to grow victoria Location on.

Do not miss the opportunity to enjoy Victoria berries. Its taste is canceled, and the benefits are immeasurable. When using, carefully rinse the fruits under running water. running water. You can use garden strawberries for fasting days due to their low calorie content. The use of a decoction of berries and leaves will help to lose extra pounds.

See you soon, dear friends!

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Proper care for Victoria - a rich harvest

Right victoria care will allow you to get a rich harvest, starting with its planting and watering, and ending with the harvest. It's no secret that Victoria has many useful properties not to mention its great taste. A rich harvest is the result of proper care for Victoria.

Garden strawberries, commonly called "Victoria" - a very tasty and fragrant berry. In fact, Victoria is only a variety of strawberries. Care for strawberries and Victoria have some features and differences.

victoria landing

Victoria should be planted on a flat, with a slight slope to the west, area.

It is necessary that the landing area be well protected from the wind, which in winter, blowing snow off the plants, can cause them to die from frost.

Victoria grows best on su sandy soils containing large amounts of humus.

Victoria reproduces with a mustache that grows by mid-summer. From the nodes on the mustache, new shoots grow - rosettes of leaves and roots. The first 2-3 rosettes from the main plant are considered the most suitable for propagation.

The most suitable are mustaches from two-year-old bushes. When 4-6 leaves are formed on the outlet, it should be cut off from the mustache and, together with a clod of earth, planted in a prepared hole in a permanent place.

Victoria is usually planted in spring or autumn, with preliminary soil preparation. If it is supposed spring planting, then the soil should be prepared in the fall, if autumn, then the site is prepared in June.

6 kg of humus and mineral fertilizers are added to the dug up land per square meter: potassium salt and ammonium nitrate 20 g each, plus 25 g of superphosphate. In order to make it convenient to take care of the plants, they are planted in rows like ridges, up to 10 cm high. Leave 20-30 cm between the bushes, with a row spacing of 60-70 cm.

Victoria care and watering

victoria care

Victoria is very whimsical to care and watering. With regular work to save moisture by loosening the soil, mulching, snow retention, weed removal, you can do without watering. But when it is watered up to 10 times per season, it is possible to obtain a more generous harvest.

After flowering is over, the ground in the garden is mulched with wood shavings, straw or dry moss. This protects the berries from the disease of raw rot.

In the middle of autumn, you need to make a second mulching with peat or grain waste. The thickness of the mulch should be 5-8 cm.

After harvesting, loosen the ground around the bushes. With exposed roots, the plant must be spudded. An important role for obtaining a good harvest of strawberries is played by its weeding.

Good and timely victoria care will please with the harvest of berries, indispensable in the treatment of diseases of the kidneys and liver, diabetes. Victoria berries favor blood formation, increase working capacity, strengthen immunity.

Read also about Victoria remontant varieties. as we often call it, or simply strawberries.

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How to plant a Victoria

How to grow Victoria in the garden | How to plant Victoria in the spring

Garden strawberries are a plant that is called strawberries, and sometimes Victoria, because this variety is most revered among the rest due to its excellent taste and quality. If you do not know how to grow Victoria, choose a strawberry variety based on the climate of your region. Victoria propagates by rooted bushes that form on the stems of shoots. From this article you will learn how to grow Victoria in the garden, as well as how to plant Victoria in the spring.

How to grow Victoria in the garden?

In order to grow Victoria you will need:

• rotted compost; heteroauxin; mulching material.

The time to grow Victoria must be chosen taking into account the climate of the area where you will plant it. If your region has a frosty winter with little snow, then it is better to plant Victoria in the spring. Then over the summer the plants will be able to get stronger.

If your area has a milder climate, then you can postpone planting Victoria until autumn. If you want to get a crop in the first year, then you can plant young plants in the ground as early as July or August. In order for the plant to develop quickly and give a good quality crop, you need to grow Victoria in a well-consecrated area in a place where the soil is light and unaffected.

Potatoes, peppers or tomatoes should grow on this soil for several years. If you want to plant Victoria in the spring, then the soil must be prepared in the fall.

And when planting strawberries in the summer or autumn, it is enough to prepare the soil one to two weeks before planting. You need to dig up a piece of land, removing the roots of perennial weeds, grubs and wireworms. Otherwise, they will damage the roots of garden strawberries and it is better to get rid of this problem in advance.

Next, you need to improve the structure of the soil, add a few kilograms of fertilizer and add sand to the soil. You need to plant Victoria in the spring in wet cloudy weather. The prepared bed needs to be watered quite abundantly a couple of days before planting. When planting Victoria in the spring, you must separate the rooted rosettes from the shoots.

In this case, it is important to dip the open roots of the rosettes in a mixture of heteroauxin, water and clay. Strawberries should be planted in rows, at a distance of about 60 cm from each other. Between the bushes you also need to leave a gap of up to 30 cm.

Before planting Victoria, you need to straighten the roots of the plant and sprinkle them with earth so that the growth point is not below the soil level. After these steps, be sure to water the bed and sprinkle the soil with a layer of sawdust. If you have a mulching nonwoven, you can spread it out in the garden before planting, and secure the edges afterwards. Where the Victoria is located under the mulching material, you need to cut holes.

How to plant Victoria in the spring?

If you want to get a rich harvest of garden strawberries or Victoria several times a season, then you need to grow Victoria remontant varieties. In this species, the fruits are formed in just two to three weeks.

At the same time, the first harvest can be obtained already on last year's inflorescences, and the second, the most abundant, in August-September. Victoria belongs to rather heat-loving plants. A sharp drop in temperature in autumn can cause freezing of the entire above-ground part of the plant, especially in the absence of snow cover.

And severe freezing of the soil can even cause the death of the roots. There is nothing complicated in how to plant Victoria correctly. To grow Victoria, you can choose almost any soil in your garden. However, the relationship between yield and soil type, of course, exists.

The best result can be achieved if you grow Victoria on podzolized chernozem soils or on dark gray soils of medium to light composition.

On peat, light gray and sod-podzolic soils, the harvest will be much less rich.

Groundwater should lie at a depth of at least 60-70 cm.

The slopes of the southwestern direction are best suited for planting victoria, since the vegetation process begins earlier on them, and the berry crop ripens faster.

The acidity of the soil should be almost neutral.

The eternal enemy of not only potatoes, but also Victoria is Colorado beetle. Therefore, before planting Victoria in the ground, it should be checked for the presence of wireworms and Maybug larvae.

How to plant a Victoria?

What should be done with Victoria in SPRING, EXACTLY in SPRING?

My mother wants to plant Victoria, what should be done with her in the spring? please tell me. In one source they say the antennae must be cut off, in another it is not necessary, the same thing with loosening. 3 years ago from Katya

Without further ado, fertilize and loosen the earth, plant and water. Do not touch the mustache for the first year. 3 years ago by

For example, you have already harvested radishes, a place has become free, so you can safely plant strawberries on it, after making a small amount of compost. Ash is also a necessary fertilizer for strawberries. But it's better to put it on next year after landing.

Planting strawberries. Usually, strawberry seedlings are planted at a distance of 30-40 cm. There is another interesting and effective planting method that is known to many professional gardeners.

It is as follows: strawberry bushes are planted at a distance of 10-15 cm. While they are small, they have enough space and develop well until next year. At the time of berry ripening, diseased and weak rosettes can be easily selected.

Those bushes on which very few berries have ripened can also be removed. As a result, you are left with only strong and healthy specimens. Unusual beds - strawberry hedges.

To create a fence, you will need a plastic pipe, a metal pipe and a metal bar. Metal pipes play the role of racks, brackets are made of a bar, and "beds" of plastic pipes are installed on them.

A container bed is made very simply: you need to make windows for planting in a plastic pipe using a drill with a nozzle. The side holes must be closed with plugs that are sold in the store. Soil is poured into the pipe and strawberries are planted.

There are a lot of advantages to this landing option. First, it is unusual and beautiful. Secondly - saving space in the summer cottage. Thirdly, the bed can be used as a fence for a flower bed.

Fourthly, it is very convenient to pick berries, which, moreover, do not deteriorate from contact with the ground. For the winter, such beds should be removed from the brackets and buried in a small trench, sprinkled with leaves or covered with spruce branches.

Strawberries reproduce with a mustache, on which new rosettes grow. Material for planting is taken from one-biennial plants. Rosettes can be separated when 1-3 leaves and a mustache of at least 10 cm have formed. It is necessary to make a separate bed with light soil.

To do this, peat and sand are added to the soil in the ratio: 1:2:1. Rosettes are planted in mid-June in shallow furrows. The distance between the bushes should be 8-10 cm. After about a month, the strawberries are ready to move to a permanent place.

Transplanted along with a clod of earth. If landing is carried out in the fall, then it must be done in early September. You can also grow strawberries from seeds that need to be sown in April in boxes with fertile, loose soil. The soil must be shed with a solution of manganese for disinfection. 3 years ago by ELENA POLYAKOVA

How to care for Victoria?

Victoria is one of the famous garden strawberry varieties. Due to the large distribution of this variety, the name was firmly fixed in everyday life for garden strawberries as a whole. In order for the harvest of this berry to please you with quantity and quality, you need to know how to care for Victoria correctly.

How to care for Victoria

watering victoria

Victoria is very demanding on care and watering. If it is not always possible to water it, then it is necessary to carry out work to preserve moisture in the soil. Loosening the soil, covering the ground with snow, timely removal of weeds, and mulching can help you with this.

As a rule, watering strawberries 9-10 times per season allows you to get a rich harvest. For watering, you can use a garden watering can without a nozzle and gently water directly under the root of the plant.

How to care for Victoria in the fall

After the flowering season, the soil must be mulched with dry moss, straw or wood shavings. This simple procedure will protect the berries from infection with gray rot.

Closer to mid-autumn, it is required to re-mulch using grain production waste or peat. The thickness of the mulch layer should be about 5 - 8 cm. When mulching, remember that the Victoria leaves should not be covered.

After harvesting, it is necessary to loosen the compacted soil around the plants. In case of exposure of the roots of the plant, it must be spudded. To maintain good yields, beds with Victoria should be regularly weeded.

When weeding, you can use mini-hoes and garden rippers.

How to care for Victoria in the spring

In order to ensure the flowering of bushes and the active ovary of berries, Victoria bushes can be treated with boric acid in spring. And before flowering and during the ovary, it is useful to treat Victoria with zinc sulfate. Also in the spring after harvesting the leaves, you can fertilize the soil.

victoria landing

Reproduction of Victoria strawberries occurs with the help of mustaches that grow from the plant by mid-summer. On these mustaches there are nodes from which leaves and roots actually grow.

Two or three sockets located at the mother plant are considered the highest quality for reproduction. Mustaches are best taken from plants of the 2nd year.

After 4-6 leaves appear on the outlet, it must be separated from the mother plant and transplanted to a prepared place. In order not to damage the roots, sockets must be dug out along with a clod of earth and planted in prepared and spilled holes. Victoria is planted in spring or autumn.

For a more comfortable planting in spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall (dig, harrow). If you decide to plant Victoria in the fall, then you can prepare the site in June. Also, when preparing the site, it will not be superfluous to apply fertilizer. For good growth and development of Victoria must be applied per 1 m2:

• 20 g ammonium nitrate 25 g superphosphate 6 kg humus

To ensure comfortable access to plants during watering or weeding, it is better to plant Victoria in even rows of small ridges of earth 7 - 10 cm high. The distance between rows should be taken about 60 - 70 cm, and between two planted plants - 20 - 30 cm. For more detailed ideas about planting victoria, you can watch a video for beginner gardeners.

Landing site selection

It is best to plant garden strawberries on a flat area, which has a slight slope to the west. This feature of the surface of the site will enable strawberry leaves to receive more sunlight in the afternoon.

It is also desirable that the site be protected from the wind. Victoria feels most comfortable on sandy loamy soils with a high content of humus. Sooner or later, any gardener will want to plant strawberries on his plot.

But how to care for Victoria to get a good harvest? This question worries many gardeners who first planted this berry crop on their site. Is it difficult to care for this plant?

At first glance, it might seem so. However, if we consider some basic recommendations for caring for Victoria, it turns out that this task is not so difficult.

Of course, it can be difficult at first, but with a little practice, you will become a guru in growing strawberries. And in this article you will receive comprehensive answers to important questions on the agricultural technology of this berry crop.

How to plant Victoria

So, consider the first question - how to plant Victoria? The answer to it is important, since it is the planting of strawberries that affects the quality of the future harvest. To understand how to plant strawberries, you must first briefly consider the structure of its bushes.

Take a look at the photo attached below. As you can see, there is a main, uterine bush. It is thanks to him that the reproduction of berry culture is possible. A mustache extends from the main strawberry bush.

Rosettes appear on these processes - future fruit-bearing bushes. Over time, this outlet will also turn into a mother bush. Important! For reproduction, choose those shoots on which there are no more than three outlets.

This will ensure the stable growth of each bush, which will also affect the quality of the fruit. As soon as the rosette begins to form, immediately gently stick its roots into the soil. So you provide the plant with a constant supply of important vital elements.

After a while, when the bushes form, they can be transplanted. It is worth noting that each mother bush can produce up to 15 good rosettes. This means that you do not have to constantly buy seedlings, and you will always have your own. Reminder.

Victoria should be planted in the middle of summer (in July). Many gardeners advise choosing the evening time of the day for this: in this case, the plant will undergo night acclimatization. What bushes can be planted in the ground? Will all sockets fit?

No, you need to plant only those seedlings that have a formed root system, there are several leaves and a heart is developed. Therefore, if you are buying outlets, then pay attention to all these factors so that you do not get upset later because your plant has not been taken.

In the same case, when you have your own uterine bush, then, before carefully tearing off the outlet from the mustache, make sure that it matches this description. Before planting the plant, carefully straighten its roots. Of no small importance is the place chosen for planting Victoria.

Berry culture develops well on sandy, slightly acidic and loamy soil. Remember to saturate the soil with humus and important nutrients.

You can not plant a plant in clay soil (it will die) and sandy soil is not recommended (yield will be small). Do not plant strawberries in beds that are adjacent to peppers, tomatoes and potatoes.

Also, do not plant seedlings near trees: their root system will interfere with the development of Victoria. But the neighborhood with corn and sunflowers will be very useful - they will protect the berry crop from the winds. The plant does not like high humidity, low temperatures and cold winds.

Such weather conditions adversely affect the productivity of the variety: the harvest will be small, and the fruits themselves become small and diseased. But warm and sunny places will contribute to the fact that Victoria will bear fruit abundantly with large and beautiful berries.

How to water Victoria

Strawberries are considered to be moisture-loving plants. Therefore, are there any special recommendations on how to water the Victoria? It turned out that yes. In the first month after planting, the plant needs to be watered into the holes.

After 30 days, the bushes are irrigated by filling the beds with water. It turns out that it is from this period that Victoria begins to receive abundant moisture. Many gardeners in this case do not reinvent the wheel, but simply bring the end of the hose to the bed and fill it to the top.

Yes, do not be greedy for water. For such generosity, Victoria will give you its large, tasty fruits. Here's what to do with this bountiful harvest.

How often to water Victoria

It is clear that strawberries need abundant watering. But still, how often to water Victoria so as not to harm the plant? From spring, strawberries begin to grow rapidly.

If she is not given the necessary moisture during this period, then then one should not be surprised that the berries ripened small and dry. Watering continues until almost mid-autumn. In the spring and autumn season, strawberry bushes should be irrigated once a week.

This should be done in the morning and preferably with warm water. In the summer season, Victoria should be watered at least twice a week, and if the days are hot, then it can be done every other day. In this case, we must not forget to fertilize the plants with liquid subcortex.

How to care for Victoria in the spring

The spring season is the busiest. It is at this time that strawberries need special care. Therefore, how to care for Victoria in the spring? You have just finished eating frozen strawberries, when spring comes to the yard, and with it it's time for you to go out to your site.

Where to begin? To get started, carefully inspect your beds. Remove all frozen plants without regret: there is nothing for them to take up space in the beds.

Dead leaves must be removed from living bushes. After carefully studying the bushes and removing the dead, proceed to the next step: remove the top layer of earth with which you mulched Victoria last fall. What is it for?

Firstly, various pests live in this layer, which have taken refuge here from the cold, and secondly, the root system will begin to receive additional heat from the rays of the sun. When you have completed all these procedures, it is advisable to feed the strawberries with nitrogen fertilizer. As soon as your bushes will please with new leaves, then immediately “feed” your plants with a solution of mullein with the addition of ammonium sulfate to it. And when May comes, Victoria should receive a portion of complex mineral fertilizer.

How to grow a large Victoria

So, all the main work is done. The gardener is waiting for his fruits. But how to grow a large Victoria, because every gardener wants to get a special trophy? In fact, a lot depends on the gardener himself, or rather on whether he will help Victoria in its fruiting. What is this about?

Again about fertilizer. And it doesn’t matter what you are doing - trying to grow cherries from a stone or want to get a large Victoria fruit - the right and timely fertilizer in these matters will play a key role. Make it a rule to fertilize plants not only in spring (as mentioned above), but and before flowering and ripening.

In the first case, it is advisable to feed strawberries with bird droppings. The solution is prepared as follows: one bucket of manure is poured with three buckets of water. The liquid should stand for three to five days.

The resulting solution is diluted 1 to 20 and the grooves between the beds are watered. And before ripening, Victoria should be fertilized twice: with boric acid and zinc sulfate. Thanks to all these actions, you can expect a plentiful and large-fruited harvest. In addition to the information in the article, you can listen to the advice of one of the gardeners on how to best care for strawberries:

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We grow Victoria: three kilograms from a bush

Irina Lebedeva, an accountant by profession and a gardener by vocation, has been growing Victoria for 40 years. But even with such experience, it is recognized that the results are different and depend on weather conditions, seedlings or seeds.

That is why he does not like to experiment and plants exclusively early varieties. She got a plot of 12 acres in the village of Krasnoe from her parents. There she and her husband Sergei Vladimirovich spend every summer.

During this time, up to 3 kg of berries are harvested from one bush. At the same time, the berries are large in size - from the fist of a child. - Victoria, or, speaking in science, garden large-fruited strawberries - one of my favorite berries, - says Irina Aleksandrovna. - Despite the fact that there is not so much space on the site, I allocated 3 beds for her, so that there was enough not only to eat fresh, but also to make preparations for the winter.

When and where to plant I usually plant at the beginning of May. I believe that the earlier it is planted, the better it develops. I plant in the evening so that the strawberries can acclimatize overnight. - It is better to prepare the beds in the fall, and immediately start planting in the spring.

Strawberries love a sunny, open place. The direction of the beds is desirable to do from south to north. It is in this arrangement that it maximizes the use of solar energy. Try not to plant it under an apple or cherry tree. Soil moisture is another important factor.

If ground water close, then the bed should be raised to 30-35 cm so that the roots do not rot. In dry places, the beds are low - 8-10 cm. Seedlings grown using the Frigo technology should be planted better in spring(read more about it on our website).

Grown by tendrils or seeds, if the roots of the plant are strong, it can be planted right now so that the plant is ready for a drop in temperature in September. Plants planted now need to be fed with microelements for berry crops, such as "Gumi-omi". You can treat the beds with special chemicals for the prevention of diseases and pests, for example, Fufanon, Ordan, Abiga-Peak.

How to plant- I make the distance between rows 60 cm, and between plants in a row - 20 cm. I make the depth of the hole for the entire length of the root. I dip the root of the plant in a solution of mullein or humus with earth. In the hole I add 1 tbsp. l. "Agrovit-Kora" or a pinch of "Kemira-Universal".

I plant so that the growing point is at the level of the soil. Shallow or, conversely, deep planting leads to the death of plants or to their poor development.

After planting, I water with water - 250 ml per plant as the soil dries. - First of all, we note that the key to a large harvest is high-quality, healthy planting material. In our case, this means a developed root system of at least 15 cm and a small rosette of leaves.

The distance between plants should be a little more than Irina does: between rows - 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 30 cm. in the garden, weeds are first removed, then they are leveled and holes are made depending on the size of the root, that is, for its entire length.

Then compost (a couple of scoops), ash (half a matchbox per hole) and some earth are placed in this hole. All this mass is mixed, watered and only then strawberries are planted.

Then they are covered with earth and watered again. Before planting in a summer cottage, it is necessary to draw up a plan and observe a crop rotation. That is, to alternate certain crops in the beds.

Strawberries can be planted after any predecessors, except for nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, petunias, tobacco). But you can’t plant it next to raspberries, because they have the same pests.

Before the formation of peduncles, it is necessary to water from a watering can, and after they appear, with a ladle under the root. The maximum yield of strawberries is the first two years, and then the yield declines, and the risk that pests will start up increases. It is possible to plant strawberries on the bed where it grew after 2 seasons.

And before that, you can plant garlic or mustard, which will improve the soil. You can also grow strawberries where legumes were planted the previous season. How to prepare for wintering?

In the autumn, when the temperature is set - 2-5C, I cover the bed with Agrotex (covering material). And in the spring, when the snow melts, I take it off. - Each summer resident has his own way of mulching (covering the soil protective layer) strawberries - mowed lawn grass, sawdust of deciduous trees, hay.

But one of the means that will save the gardener from unnecessary trouble is Kostravit-M1 mulch. It protects the soil from overheating, retains moisture longer, saves from pests and suppresses the growth of weeds. Also, the mulch will save the strawberries from freezing in winter.

The recommended thickness of the mulching layer is 1.5-2 cm in spring and 3 cm before winter. What varieties to choose? This year, Irina Alexandrovna did not have so many berries, but they were all very large, about 8 cm in length.

The hostess believes that this is the merit of the variety, which has not let her down for the 2nd season. Despite the size, the taste does not get worse.

The main varieties that Irina Aleksandrovna uses are Gigantella and Festivalnaya. All varieties are divided into 4 groups: early, medium, late ripening and remontant. It all depends on the preference of the summer resident, what kind of strawberries he wants to see on his site. Early varieties ripen at the end of June - these are Kimberly, Korona, Olvia.

The berries are sweet, large, bright red, winter-hardy. Medium ones ripen in early July - Rusich, Black Swong, Vima-Zanta, Zenga-Zengana. Berries from 20 g, sweet and sour taste, average winter hardiness. Late - in mid-July - "Vima Tarda", "Vikoda", "Charlotte".

The berries are medium in size, the taste is sweet and sour, winter hardiness is good. Repair strawberry garden. She gives berries a little bit, but all summer. Also, their peculiarity is that the berries are larger and sweeter than those of ordinary varieties.

Blooms from May to October: "Vima-Rina", "Geneva", "Moscow Delicatessen", "Brighton", "Queen Elizabeth II". How to propagate? Irina Aleksandrovna breeds strawberries with her mustache.

Just now I transplanted it to the bed where the onion grew. - This method has many drawbacks, although it is easy to use. After 3 generations, the berry begins to lose its properties.

They become smaller, taste deteriorates, yields decline, and susceptibility to disease increases. The next drawback is the transfer of diseases from garden to garden.

Strawberries, on which gardeners leave mustaches, spend their energy not on laying fruit buds, but on feeding their young shoots. To avoid these problems, it is necessary to update planting material, that is, take seedlings of the first reproduction. They give the maximum yield.

Seedlings of this class can be found today. Sellers must have varietal certificates confirming this. There is another modern way - new technology frigo (translated as "cold").

Throughout the summer, strawberries are grown in farmers' nurseries in the open field. During this time, she is not allowed to give the harvest, the mustache is removed. Then the strawberries are dug up, the leaves are cut, and the seedlings are stored in the refrigerator for storage.

And in this state, it is stored until the moment when it needs to be planted. To us, in Udmurtia, frozen roots are brought from a Dutch nursery in the spring. After planting it, after two months, gardeners receive a guaranteed harvest.

You can make an application for the purchase of seedlings of 1 reproduction using the freego technology by calling the Agricultural Academy 55-02-07, (average price - 25-35 rubles per seedling). How to care? Twice a season, Irina Alexandrovna makes liquid top dressing for strawberries.

The first time - in May, before flowering, and the second time - in early July, after harvesting. - For liquid top dressing of strawberries, I use fresh chicken manure. I water the beds well a few hours before feeding.

Then, in 10 liters of water, I carefully stir a portion of fresh chicken manure at the rate of 1:10 and water it evenly from a watering can. After harvesting, I remove all weeds, loosen the soil around all the bushes and cover with a small layer of cow dung to fertilize the ground.

I do not use any chemicals. - Experts advise feeding strawberries in the spring with nitrogen fertilizers in accordance with the instructions on the package (for example, AFK 16-16-16, 10 grams per square meter). But don't overdo it.

They also recommend regularly applying a complex of microelements for berry crops, for example, Gumi-omi. After harvesting, it can be treated with special chemicals for the prevention of diseases and pests, such as Fufanon, Ordan, Abiga Peak.

How to get rid of pests Irina Alexandrovna is sure that the pests do not touch Victoria, because every three years she transplants it to a new place. The main pests of strawberries are May beetle larvae (Khrushchi). When digging the beds, you need to remove the larvae manually.

Another method of struggle is to cover the beds during the summer of beetles in May with covering material, film or roofing material. Another enemy of strawberries is nematodes - small worms. It is very difficult to fight them. The main way is to observe crop rotation.

Eliminate the bed after 3-4 years of fruiting and burn the remains of plants. You can get rid of them with a folk remedy - pour a decoction of marigolds or plant marigolds on the future garden for several months.

Before planting, when preparing a bed, you can plant it, for example, with mustard, it heals the soil. In a month, you can dig everything up and plant strawberry seedlings.

To get a good harvest of selected strawberries in the future, they must be properly processed after harvesting in the present. Namely: cut off the mustache and extra leaves, or even mow them down; spray from diseases; fill with fertilizers, carry out moisture charging irrigation.

Harvested, what's next?

When the bushes bear fruit, they need restoration. But the plants continue to be depleted due to the mustache and old leaves, somewhere withered and beaten by rain or hail. Therefore, on the plantation of the second or third year, they must be removed with a pruner. If this is done immediately after picking the berries, then the young bushes will have enough time to:

1. have time to increase the green mass;
2. accumulate nutrients;
3. go into the winter with a reserve of energy for the next harvest.

Removing whiskers and old strawberry leaves

Unnecessary, but rooted outlets should also be removed. If you liked some, especially fruitful bush, then its sockets can be transplanted to a new ridge.

On five-year-old, especially infected plantations, continuous mowing is allowed. This does not mean that you need to take a scythe and go to the berry field. All ground parts of plants are also removed with a sharp pruner, leaving 5 cm petioles and without affecting the dense and green “heart” at the base of the roots.

If the plantation was infected with fungal infections, then experienced gardeners after mowing, they “walk” over the plants and on the ground around them, also with a blowtorch. This must be done quickly, not lingering on each bush for more than 1 second.

It is better for beginners not to resort to such extreme methods, but to lay new beds in time.
New mustaches that grow in the future continue to be regularly removed, and new growing leaves are no longer touched.

Processing strawberries after fruiting

When everything superfluous is removed from the ridges - leaves, mustaches, weeds, the ground must be disinfected blue vitriol or diluted potassium permanganate. The color of the solution should be crimson. This should be done, trying not to get on the plants, but to be sure - after processing it is better to lightly pour clean water from a watering can with a spray.

After a day or two, strawberries need to be fed with one of the mineral complexes:

• Nitrophoska;
• Ammophoska;
• Azofos.

These fertilizers are suitable if time is not lost - no later than the end of July. If the case takes place in August, then
nitrogen fertilizers are excluded and then mixed for top dressing:

• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate;
• ash.

Fertilizers can be applied both dry during the next loosening of the soil, and in dissolved form.

Until the end of summer, you need to continue to remove new whiskers, leaving healthy leaves; weed, loosen and water. You can cover the soil between the bushes and the aisle with a layer of mulch. Then there will be no need for loosening, watering will be reduced, and the growth of weeds will weaken.

Pest and disease control after harvest

For the treatment and prevention of fungal diseases, biological products are used:

• Fitosporin-M. A microbiological agent, rapidly spreading through the vessels of plants, instantly affects the causative agents of many bacterial and fungal diseases.
• Alirin-B. It is used for the treatment and prevention of gray rot, rust, scab, powdery mildew, root rot, etc. In addition, it can reduce soil toxicity.
• Verticillin. Biological insecticide is most effective against a complex of aphids, whiteflies and thrips.

After treatment with microbiological substances, the fruits can be removed without waiting for a certain period.

Of the pesticides, the most effective are:

It should be remembered that after treatment with insecticides, you need to wait two weeks and only then remove the fruits. Therefore, it is better to use them before tying berries and after harvesting.

Folk remedies

Available, inexpensive, environmentally friendly, safe for plants and humans components have always been used by gardeners for processing strawberries during the entire growing season.

powdery mildew

The fungus manifests itself as a white bloom on all ground parts of the plant, inhibiting the bush and lowering winter hardiness. It quickly spreads over the entire area of ​​​​plantations. The disease appears with increased rates of nitrogen fertilizers, high humidity and soil temperature.

You can fight it with:

• soapy saline solution. On a bucket of water take 40-50 g of both. Processing is carried out weekly.
• Milk whey (curdled milk or kefir). For 9 liters of water 1 liter fermented milk product. Processing - once every 5-7 days.
• Mustard. Water or spray with a solution of mustard (2 tablespoons) in water (10 liters).
• Field horsetail. 100 g of grass are taken per liter of water, allowed to brew for a day, then brought to a temperature of 60 degrees over low heat, cooled. Dilute with water 4 times and spray strawberries once a week for a month.

Mustard solution for processing strawberries

Gray rot

Toward the end of summer, when the temperature drops and the humidity, on the contrary, is high, gray rot is activated.

Berries in contact with the soil are the first to fall ill. They are covered with a gray fluffy coating and smell like mold. The disease spreads very quickly and can destroy most of the crop.

Iodine is popularly considered the most effective tool in the fight against gray rot. It (1 ml) is diluted in water (5 l) and sprayed over the green berry and after harvesting.

Iodine to save strawberries from gray rot

In addition to iodine, you can use this recipe:

• a glass of ash;
• a glass of chalk;
• a teaspoon of copper sulfate;
• a bucket of water.

Everything is mixed and processed in the plantation before flowering and after harvesting the berries.

When they appear garlic arrows(0.5 kg), they are broken out, cut, poured with hot water (3 l), insisted for two days. By diluting with water, bring the volume to 10 liters and water the strawberries.

brown spot

It appears as light dotted spots with a dark border, progresses with high humidity, starting from old leaves.

If a disease is detected, they should be cut out immediately. Folk methods of struggle are as follows:

These solutions should be sprayed on the leaves and soil.

white spotting

The disease virus penetrates the leaf plate and actively develops with excessive moisture. If small white blotches appear, immediately remove the mulch, if any, mustache, all old leaves and give potash top dressing. Can be sprayed with ash or iodine solution.

Fusarium wilt

The disease often manifests itself on weakened bushes, with sharp temperature fluctuations, lack of minerals. First, the root is affected, and only then the leaves - they wither, dry out and die.

Withering strawberry bush

Since the symptoms can be detected when the root is already sick, the plant is removed and burned. Nearby sitting bushes and the ground are treated for prophylaxis with iodine, ash or garlic solution.

From fusurium and verticillium wilt, as well as fungal infections and rot, crop rotation helps well.

In addition, you need to remember that strawberries do not like low-lying areas, dense bushes, excess nitrogen and moisture. Best of all fructifies on southern slopes.

The strawberry cycle in the garden

If it is easy enough to get rid of pests, then it is much more difficult to get rid of bacterial diseases and all kinds of rot. Crop rotation when setting up a plantation significantly increases the chances of getting away from viruses. Since strawberries bear fruit well without anti-aging measures for only three years, four-year-old bushes should be removed and burned after harvesting.

Given that the best strawberry precursors are garlic and onions, the berry is laid as follows:

Do you follow the rules of crop rotation when growing strawberries?

YesNot

• 0 ridge - winter garlic;
• 1 ridge - strawberries of the 1st year of fruiting;
• 2nd ridge - strawberries of the 2nd year of fruiting;
• 3rd ridge - strawberries of the 3rd year of fruiting;
• 4th ridge - strawberries of the 4th year of fruiting.

(The ridges are taken conditionally - it can be both weaving and a hectare).

In late July - early August, the garlic is removed, the zero ridge is filled with fertilizers and dug up. It contains fresh rosettes taken from two-year-old bushes.

Sockets for planting take those that are located first to the mother bush. In extreme cases, with a shortage of material, you can take the second.

The fourth ridge is freed (the old bushes are burned). Winter garlic is planted on it in the fall.

Next year's strawberry looks like this:

• on the zero ridge - bushes of 1 year;
• on the first - bushes 2 years old;
• on the second - bushes 3 years old;
• on the third - bushes 4 years old;
• on the fourth - garlic.

Now, in August, the third ridge will be vacated, garlic will “move” onto it, and new sockets will be placed in its place. Thus, a strawberry can constantly occupy the same part of the site, but if desired, it can "walk" throughout the garden.

The main thing is that tomatoes and potatoes should not be its predecessors, since they have the same diseases with strawberries.

Properly planned crop rotation allows you to get sustainable yields from year to year.

Winter shelters for berries

If the bushes of the second, third and fourth years of life can winter without shelter (subject to sufficient snow cover), then new plants need to be insulated. You also need to insure rare varieties and novelties, the endurance of which is still unknown.

So that the plants do not fade, they need to be covered after the establishment of daylight sub-zero temperature. Usually, this is the end of October - the beginning of November, plus or minus ten days. You can hide:

• spruce branches;
• dry foliage (from the forest);
• sunflower stalks, corn, reeds;
• white non-woven fabric.

Shelter of a young strawberry bush with spruce branches

In addition, shields are installed near the ridges perpendicular to the prevailing winds for snow retention.

If you perform all the activities for processing strawberries after harvesting: properly cut, fertilize, water and cover it, then it will “thank” the gardener with large, fragrant berries in large quantities.

How to process strawberries in May from diseases? A solution of potassium permanganate helps a lot. And, in addition, you can make a solution of 20 g of zinc sulfate and a bucket of water (10 l), then spray the leaves and stems. But in the fall it is already required to process strawberries only after picking the berries.

Autumn is the time of active work of the gardener. But the collection remontant strawberries in autumn it is often overshadowed by the fact that the berries are moldy and damaged. The reason for this is diseases and pests of strawberries and strawberries.

Strawberry care, diseases and pests, how to do prevention without chemicals? When all the berries are removed, the plantings need pruning, cover for the winter and watering. Also, loosening the earth can destroy pests and fungal spores in the soil. Processing strawberries in the fall from pests and diseases includes spraying with drugs, cutting off old and diseased leaves, manually collecting snails and tears, pulling out bushes when verticillium wilt is detected.

Terms of processing in the fall

Protection of strawberries from pests and diseases in the fall is carried out after picking all the berries. But the processing time varies depending on the variety. regular varieties, which bear fruit in the summer, are sprayed in September, and remontants - almost before the onset of winter. And for the winter, so that the bushes do not freeze, they are covered with spruce branches made of needles or lutrasil.

What are the pests and diseases of strawberries and their treatment? The main diseases and pests of strawberries and strawberries are:

1. Powdery mildew.
2. Late blight.
3. Cladosporiosis.
4. Gray rot.
5. Ramulariasis.
6. Brown spotting.
7. Verticillium wilt.
8. Leaf chlorosis.

Strawberries can be attacked by:

• nematode;
• whiteflies;
• strawberry and spider mites;
• strawberry leaf beetle;
• strawberry-raspberry weevil.

Strawberries, diseases and pests and their photos, we will consider in more detail later.

Strawberry diseases and preparations

powdery mildew

With her, the diseased strawberries become faded, the bushes dry up. Powdery coating appears, it looks like a thin cobweb. Specks are visible on the cobweb. These are fungal spores. The leaves become brownish, as if rusty. The foliage is deformed, the leaves curl up, then dry up. The berries become whitish, emit a musty smell, after which they turn brown and dry.

From powdery mildew, Sulfaride helps well. Pour 2 tbsp. spoons in a bucket of clean water (10 l). Stir for 5 minutes, pour into a spray bottle and spray strawberries.

You can also apply a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. Pour 100 g of sulfur into a bucket of warm clean water (10 l) and process the plantings.

Prepare a solution by pouring 1 ampoule of Topaz into a bucket of warm (+30 ⁰C) water (10 l). After spraying, the remedy helps against the disease for 14 days. Spray, picking up a day without wind and rain.

Pour 3 liters of clean water into a bucket, grate 200 g of laundry soap and pour into a bucket, add another 5 g of copper sulfate, stir gently, top up the bucket with water. Stir the resulting solution again for 5 minutes. Spray them with strawberries.

late blight

Late blight often occurs during heavy rains and high air temperatures. The disease is caused by fungi transmitted by zoospores. Late blight can be detected by grayish-brown spots on the leaves, they are covered with a coating that looks like a cobweb. The berries are bent, they become tasteless, brown spots appear, then the berries dry out.

Important! After picking the berries, the bushes are sprayed with solutions of Topaz, Euparen or Switch.

Gray rot

The berries are covered with a grayish fluff, they rot, gray clouds of spores fly around them. .

From gray rot, bushes are treated with "Fitosporin" or "Fito-plus". A 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture also helps (pour 1 teaspoon of Bordeaux liquid into 0.5 liters of water).

Cladosporiosis and ramulariasis

Brown spotting (cladosporiosis) appears as red-brick oval or rounded spots. First, when the disease appears, as it were, small scorch marks appear along the edges of the foliage, then the spots become larger, dark pads are visible on top of them, these are myceliums. The whiskers are also covered with brick spots.

After the leaves turn completely red and dry out. Dark gray fluffy blotches are visible on the spots, these are spores of the fungus. Brown spotting appears due to constant precipitation or excessive watering, too dense plantings, if the area is overgrown with weeds.

White spotting (ramulariasis). This viral disease. The disease is recognized by brownish spots up to 1 cm in diameter on the stems and foliage, the spots are dotted with white dots.

How to treat strawberries for diseases? In September, water the bushes with Fitosporin or Zircon.

brown spotting

Brown spotting is the most dangerous. These are also brownish spots on the foliage, but with darker edges. When the disease occurs, spots appear on the edges of the leaves and along the main vein.

From gray rot, cladosporiosis, ramulariasis, brown spotting, copper oxychloride helps well. Pour in 1 tbsp. a spoonful of substance in a bucket warm water. Spray the bushes.

verticillium wilt

The disease is caused by a fungus. With it, the number of berries decreases, the bushes die. Bushes become infected with the disease through the roots. First, the mycelium penetrates the roots, and then spreads. First, the roots dry up, the bushes grow slowly, after it is seen that the leaves fall to the ground, they become yellowish-red.

Choose disease-resistant strawberry varieties for planting.

Chlorosis

Chlorosis usually appears due to a lack of certain trace elements, but it can also occur due to an infection that is introduced by pests from diseased bushes.

Due to lack of iron, iron chlorosis. The leaves turn yellow or whitish, although the veins retain their bright color. green tint. In this case, it is required to feed the bushes with iron.

With magnesium chlorosis, the edges of large leaves at the base of the bush turn yellow, then all the leaves turn yellow. It is necessary to fertilize strawberries with magnesium.

An excess of nitrogen can cause zinc chlorosis. It is manifested by the fact that reddish, orange or yellowish dots appear on the leaves.

Nitrogen chlorosis results in yellow veins on foliage. Then all the leaves turn yellow.

Pests and drugs against them

Nematode

In early autumn, carefully inspect the strawberries. If you see tiny worms with little or no color up to 1 mm long, then this is a nematode.

True, the nematode is very difficult to see, so its presence is determined by swelling on the stems or leaf veins. If the petioles become short and twisted, the foliage shrivels and falls off, swellings are found on the upper side of the foliage, then this is a nematode.

In these cases, remove the diseased bush from the ground and 2 more bushes nearby, burn them. In this area, you can plant a crop in 2-3 years.

Strawberry-raspberry weevil

These are small even bugs, their bodies are oblong, they are up to 2 mm long, covered with small hairs. Convex eyes are visible on the head.

Weevils lay their larvae in unopened buds. They eat the middle of the bud, then crawl into the soil and pupate. If you find punctures on the foliage, this means that the pest is drinking the juice from the plant. Treat strawberries with "Aktara", "Intavir", "Fitoverm" or "Iskra-bio".

whiteflies

These are small whitish butterflies, up to 1.5 mm long and 0.3 mm wide. They have two pairs of wings, and they have a coating that resembles wax. Butterflies are at the bottom of the foliage and suck out the juices. There they lay eggs, which hatch into flat, oval-shaped larvae with six legs.

Spray the strawberries from the whitefly with Aktara, prepare the working composition in the tank of the backpack sprayer. First, make a concentrated solution by dissolving 4 g of Aktara in 1 liter of warm water (+25 ⁰C) in a separate container. Then take ¼ of this and pour into the tank, that is, 250 g of a concentrated solution. Then pour water into the tank, filling it ¼. Close and shake the sprayer, then apply the compound. You can still process "Intavir". To do this, place 1 tablet of "Intavir" in 1 liter of water, mix until the tablet dissolves, then pour in another 9 liters of pure water.

strawberry leaf beetle

These are brown bugs, their bodies are 3–4 mm long. They eat leaves. They are destroyed by spraying strawberries with Nurell D, Sharpay, Karate and Zolon .

strawberry mite

These are transparent, very tiny insects. Females are up to 0.2 mm long, and males 0.13 mm. They are almost impossible to see. Young insects are transparent, after which they turn yellow or brown. If ticks attack strawberries, the bushes will grow dwarfed. If pests are found, strawberries are sprayed with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos (pour 30 g of Karbofos into a bucket of water with a volume of 10 liters).

You can also spray the bushes with potassium permanganate, a 3% solution of copper sulfate (300 g of copper sulfate per 10 l bucket of water), a 4% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

spider mite

It is found by cobwebs on the bushes. The mites themselves are tiny, up to half a millimeter long, they are whitish. They are still visible by light dots on top of the leaves.

The culture is treated with colloidal sulfur, Apollo, Neoron, Karbofos, Phosbecid, these substances are poisonous. But you can also use the safe Fitoferm, pour 1 ampoule into 1 liter of water.

Aphid

Against aphids, you can treat strawberries with Nitrofen. You can also spray the bushes with a solution of iodine and water.

Snails and slugs

Snails and slugs are removed by hand from strawberries and destroyed. You can spread the Metaldehyde granules near the strawberries. How else to process strawberries from pests and diseases?

Nitrofen helps not only with scab, gray rot and spotting, but also eliminates aphids and mites. Pour 150 g of the composition into a bucket of warm water (10 l) and spray the crop, as well as the ground near it.

Fight "without chemistry"

To combat the strawberry mite, you can shed the bushes with a hot solution of potassium permanganate. An infusion of onion peel and garlic also helps. Collect 200 g of husk from the onion, pour it into a bucket of warm water with a volume of 10 liters, leave for 5 days, then spray the culture. Or finely chop 200 g of garlic, pour into a 10-liter bucket of clean water, stir, strain and spray the bushes.

From the weevil, a decoction of wormwood has proven itself well. Hang 1 kg of wormwood, pour into a saucepan, pour in 4 liters of pure water, boil for 10 minutes, strain, pour in another 6 liters of pure water and add 50 g of soap for better adhesion to the leaves, spray the plants.

How to treat strawberries from pests and diseases?

Use iodine for strawberries from pests and diseases. In autumn, you can disinfect the soil in order to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases. The bushes are also treated to eliminate worms, aphids, beetle larvae.

Disinfection of the earth is carried out after processing the bushes, trimming the leaves. 15 drops of iodine are dripped into a bucket of water (10 l). This composition spills the soil and bushes. Iodine destroys pests that are going to spend the winter in the ground, diseased bushes lie.

If you find pests, then pour in 30 drops of iodine and pour 20 g of soap into a bucket of water (10 liters). Water the culture with this composition. True, it's not very effective remedy, much better destroys diseases and pests of strawberries infusion of onion peel, tobacco dust, infusion of wormwood.

You can make a folk remedy, heat 3 tbsp. tablespoons of sunflower oil, pour into a bucket of warm clean water, mix with 2 tbsp. spoons of vinegar and 2 tbsp. spoons of ash, add 500 ml of liquid soap. Spray strawberries and the ground around them to help with scab, blotches and gray mold.

You can also use ash for strawberries from pests and diseases. They make a decoction of ashes, it perfectly resists aphids. To do this, carefully sift 300 g of wood ash, pour into a saucepan, pour boiling water, boil 25 minutes. Then strain and pour in another 10 liters of clean water. You can pour 50 g of soap. Pour the broth over the strawberry bushes.

Conclusion

So that you do not have to process strawberries from pests and diseases, pull out weeds in the fall, remove mustaches, cut off dry foliage, loosen the soil, and do water-charging watering.

Strawberries, pests and diseases, video:

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Strawberries are unpretentious garden crops, but still require some care. First of all, it concerns protection against diseases and insects. The processing of strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests should not be skipped, since the health and productivity of plants will depend on this.

This article will describe the main diseases and crop pests, methods of dealing with them and effective preventive measures. You will also learn how to properly handle strawberries in the spring to prevent disease in young plants.

Strawberry diseases and the need for processing in the spring

Each disease develops in certain soil and climatic conditions, therefore, before planting, you need to take into account the likelihood of developing pathologies of this variety in your area.

Despite this, all diseases have characteristic symptoms and factors that provoke the development of certain pathologies. Let's consider them in more detail.

Causes

Most diseases develop due to fungal spores. The onset of warm weather and high humidity contribute to their spread throughout the site.

Note: Often the gardener himself is guilty of an infection in the beds if he buys seedlings of unknown origin in the market or from neighbors.

Also, the following reasons contribute to the development of ailments:

• dense plantings, including overgrowing of the site with weeds that impair the ventilation of the beds;
• non-observance of crop rotation rules, placement near crops prone to the same diseases;
• lack of care (trimming of mustaches and leaves, loosening);
• depleted soil with a lack of magnesium, potassium and other elements;
• rare top dressing, weakening the immunity of the bushes;
• excess moisture.

In addition, diseases can also appear if strawberries are planted in the wrong place, and the plants feel an acute shortage of sunlight. Also, infections and fungi are spread by pests, so these insects need to be destroyed in time.

Symptoms

The first sign indicating that the plant is sick is spots on the leaves. The color of the spots may suggest the cause of the disease. They can be red, brown, light or rusty. At the first appearance of such spots, the plant is subjected to immediate treatment (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Common strawberry diseases: rot, rust and powdery mildew

Symptoms of diseases are different, but you should always pay attention to the general condition of the bushes. If the strawberry begins to lean, the leaves dry quickly, turn brown, which means that the pathology is developing. If treatment is not applied as soon as possible, then in a few months the plant will die.

Often the treatment is carried out in isolation. For this, the diseased bush is dug up and placed in a separate container, where they are treated. In the worst case, the disease can migrate to neighboring bushes and it will be much more difficult to deal with it. With a strong defeat of the seedling, it is immediately removed from the garden and burned.

Note: If regular wilting of strawberries occurs from year to year, the type or quality of the soil may not be suitable for the selected varieties. In this case, you should choose the most disease-resistant varieties.

There are cases when it is impossible to determine the presence of a disease, and you can find out about it only when the first inflorescences are formed. They are deformed and stained. If the berries are formed under such conditions, then they are still green covered with brown spots, then they become stale and dry. Ripe fruits lose their sweetness, become tasteless and bitter.

Strawberry diseases and their treatment: video

The author of the video will tell you more about the processing of strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests, as well as about the main diseases of this crop.

Processing strawberries in the spring from diseases and pests

To get a good harvest, it is necessary to carry out spring processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, as well as a number of agrotechnical measures, which will help keep the plants healthy and get a rich harvest.

There are several ways to prevent and certain rules plant processing.

Processing features

When processing strawberry plantings in the spring, experienced gardeners recommend removing the top layer of soil. Thus, we can get rid of many pests. If this is not possible for you, then you need to loosen the soil well and remove the weeds. Sanitize plants, remove dry and damaged leaves. This should be done in dry sunny weather and very carefully so as not to damage the bush, since the plants are still weak after winter and not sufficiently rooted (Figure 2).

Figure 2. Treatment of strawberries against diseases and pests

After cleaning the beds, you need to start the preventive treatment of plantings from pests and diseases, especially fungal ones. It is good to spray the bushes with copper-containing preparations. This will reduce the likelihood of damage to plants by spotting, powdery mildew, verticillium. It must be remembered that the treatment should be carried out before the plant begins to bloom.

Note: During the flowering period, biological preparations can be used. With a strong infection of plantings, a week after harvesting, the bushes need to be mowed.

It is impossible to allow an excess of nitrogen, constantly carry out top dressing with both organic and mineral fertilizers. It is not recommended to use fresh manure, it can cause infections and pests.

Ways

With the onset of spring, it is necessary to process strawberries from diseases and pests. To do this, you can use chemicals or biological products. Many gardeners recommend treating strawberries and other crops with hot water. To do this, the water is heated to a temperature of + 60-65 degrees and the bushes are watered from above. The main thing is that the water does not cool down in advance, and the distance between the bush and the watering can is about a meter.

When the earth warms up well, the landings again need to be mulched. As a mulch, pine or spruce needles, straw, or you can use special material. The mulch will act as an antiseptic.

rules

Planting begins after the snow has completely melted. First of all, last year's layer of mulch and other debris are raked, then the top layer of soil is removed. Next, you need to feed the plants with organic or mineral fertilizers. After that, the plantings are dug deep and thinned out.

To reduce the likelihood of diseases and pests, they are guided by the following rules:

• The soil is treated before planting;
• Seedlings are purchased from trusted suppliers, better - in specialized nurseries;
• Timely carry out proper care, remove weeds;
• Every 3-4 years, transplant strawberries to a new place;
• Plant repellent plants, such as calendula or marigolds, next to strawberry plantings.

When processing bushes, special biological products and chemical solutions are used. All work is carried out in the morning or in the evening. It is impossible to carry out such events in the hot time of the day.

Treatment scheme for pests and diseases

There is no specific scheme for processing strawberries from diseases and pests. The main thing in the fight is to hold on time preventive measures(Figure 3).

Figure 3. Scheme spring processing strawberries from diseases and pests

IN spring time you need to remove the top layer of soil between the bushes and replace it with fresh soil. If this fails, remove last year's mulch and loosen the soil well. Remove old leaves and mustaches, plant young rosettes in place of dead bushes. Apply fertilizer to the soil and treat for diseases and pests.

After the strawberries begin to grow, the bed needs to be mulched. Before flowering should be treated against pests and fungal diseases. When the first buds appear in the soil, it is necessary to apply phosphate fertilizers, and after flowering - complex mineral fertilizers.

Processing strawberries in the fall from pests and diseases

In autumn, the garden needs special care. And although the strawberry crop has already been harvested, it still needs pruning, feeding, watering, loosening and processing from diseases and pests.

From correctness autumn care will depend on how successfully the plants will endure the winter and whether they will be able to actively bear fruit next year.

Processing features

The fight against diseases and pests is the prevention of negative factors and preventive measures. Prevention can be carried out by folk methods and with the help of special preparations. But even supporters of folk remedies admit that it is better to fight ailments. modern drugs. They should be used in spring or autumn, when the plants do not bear fruit. In order for the plants to look good, the autumn processing of strawberries should be carried out systematically.

Of the strawberry pests, the most common are: spider mites, strawberry weevil, snails, slugs, aphids. Of the diseases - gray, brown and white spotting, powdery mildew.

For processing strawberries in the fall, the following preparations are used: Nitrofen, Topaz, Actellik, Karbofos, Metaldegrid and others, as well as folk remedies for pest control. You can also use Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate. Slugs and snails must be independently collected from the bushes and destroyed.

For prevention, it is necessary to constantly remove weeds, water and feed the plants, loosen the soil, cut dry and diseased leaves and shoots.

Ways

The best method of controlling diseases and pests is prevention. But, if this could not be done, then they use different methods of struggle.

by the most dangerous pest considered to be a strawberry mite. To combat it, spraying with karbofos is used. Carry out this procedure after the last harvest. This method can be used to control weevils, whiteflies and other pests. In the fight against weevil, crop rotation should be taken into account, as well as spraying plants during the period of active life with Nurell D, karate, and zolon preparations.

You can get rid of slugs by picking them up with your hands or using Metaldehyde granular. After fruiting, granules are laid out under each bush, which destroy slugs.

Among the diseases, gray rot is considered the most common. To combat the disease, plantings are treated with copper oxychloride before flowering, and after harvesting, a solution of copper oxychloride and liquid soap is used. You can not thicken the landing.

From brown spotting, liquid cute and copper oxychloride are used. Spraying is carried out in early spring and autumn. When the bushes are affected by powdery mildew, strawberries are treated with Sulfaride, potassium permanganate or colloidal sulfur before flowering.

rules

When carrying out autumn processing of strawberries from diseases and pests, the following rules should be observed:

• When using special solutions, they should be diluted only according to the instructions;
• Processing of plants is carried out in the early morning or late evening;
• Spray the bushes after the last harvest;
• A plant infected with late blight in a neglected form is removed from the garden and burned.

In order to prevent the spread of diseases and pests, it is necessary to remove weeds in a timely manner, feed the plants and loosen the ground, as well as periodically inspect the plantings to detect the first signs of the disease.

The author of the video tells how to properly care for strawberries in different seasons.

Treatment of strawberry late blight

Late blight is considered one of the most common diseases. It affects different types of plants and can be transmitted from one crop to another.

This disease is dangerous because its pathogen can persist in the soil, therefore, when the first symptoms of the pathology are detected, treatment should be started immediately.

Causes

The appearance of late blight often manifests itself in the second half of summer. Rainy weather and high temperatures contribute to rapid spread.

The causative agents of the disease are fungi that are transmitted by zoospores. The infection scheme looks simple: the spores of the fungus fall on the aerial parts of neighboring plants or are washed into the ground by rain. Phytophthora affects both aboveground parts of plants (stems, leaves, fruits) and underground (tubers).

Very often, strawberry bushes become infected with late blight from tomatoes and potatoes planted nearby.

Symptoms

Signs of late blight are gray-brown spots, which are covered with a coating resembling a cobweb or surrounded by a ring of white mold (Figure 4). The leaves of the affected plant wither, brown spots appear on the petioles and peduncles, which soon rot, it noticeably lags behind in growth. Parts of the plants that are affected die off, sometimes the plants die.

Note: In infected plants, the number of rosettes decreases, the leaves on them are deformed, the whiskers become short. In autumn, you can see signs of late blight on the roots. Small roots all die off, thereby exposing larger ones, they soon begin to rot. The wood of the root is painted black-brown.

When the buds bloom, the core of the inflorescences looks dead. The pistils turn black, but the corolla remains white. This may resemble freezing in the spring, but with late blight, the shape of diseased flowers differs from healthy ones. In addition, berries are no longer formed from such flowers.

Figure 4. Symptoms of strawberry late blight

The disease brings great losses to ovaries and immature fruits. The berries are bent, lose their taste and become unsuitable for transportation and storage. Brown spots on the pulp become bitter and hard, soon the berries dry out and die. To distinguish a diseased berry from one that lacks water, you can simply cut it: if the core of the dark berry is affected.

Verticillium wilt of strawberries: treatment

Strawberries are affected by verticillium at any age. The most obvious symptoms during the fruiting period.

Consider the main causes that can cause the disease, as well as the symptoms of the disease, by which it can be determined that the shrub needs treatment.

Causes

Verticillium wilt of strawberries is caused by a fungus. The harmfulness of this disease is expressed in a rapid decrease in yield and the death of bushes. The affected plant dies in the second year.

Note: The disease most often manifests itself in beds where the predecessors were crops susceptible to the disease: potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, cotton, raspberries, etc.

The disease affects plants of any age. The manifestation of the disease begins in late May - early June and continues to develop throughout the growing season. Plants are infected with verticillium through the root system. Once in the roots, the mycelium of the fungus penetrates the conducting system and multiplies. As it becomes infected inside, the root becomes brown and dies.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease vary depending on soil type, strawberry variety and other causes (Figure 5).

Drying begins with damage to the root neck, vascular system, sockets and root system. The infected plant lags behind in growth, then the leaves begin to lie down on the ground and turn red-yellow.

Figure 5. Signs of verticillium wilt of strawberries

In the chronic form, a gradual increase in symptoms occurs, which is expressed in a lag in the growth of leaves and a decrease in their number. By the end of the growing season, the petioles of the leaves become red and die imperceptibly. Some bushes manage to survive and give new growth in the spring. This is achieved by varieties that are resistant to fungi.

To avoid the occurrence of this disease, you need to observe crop rotation and choose resistant varieties bred by breeders.

Treatment of chlorosis in strawberries

Chlorosis is not a very serious disease, and if you notice the signs in time and take certain actions, you can save the plant. But in order to do this, you need to know the causes and signs of the disease.

Causes

The most common signs of chlorosis are (Figure 6):

• Infection: A plant can become ill with chlorosis due to infection by insects and pests from diseased plants, as well as from diseases accumulated over the years in the soil.
• The lack of trace elements and minerals in the diet: this is the most common cause occurrence of the disease. Plants need magnesium, zinc, iron, lime, etc., so they need to be fed regularly.
• Conditions for care and planting: the occurrence of chlorosis may be due to damage to the root system, poor quality of the soil, wrong location beds or improper care and watering.

To begin to properly treat plants, you need to determine the true cause of the disease.

Symptoms

Symptoms of the disease may be different, detailed information can be obtained by conducting special laboratory research. But there are a number external signs, by which it is possible to determine which microelement the plant lacks.

Figure 6. Symptoms of strawberry chlorosis

The most common type is iron chlorosis. The leaf plate uniformly turns yellow or white, the veins remain green. Upper young leaves suffer first.

Magnesium chlorosis occurs due to a lack of magnesium. Often found in light sandy soils. The edges of the old lower leaves begin to turn yellow first, and then the entire leaf.

In spring, zinc chlorosis is very common, especially on older leaves. The disease begins with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Dots of red, orange or yellow appear on the leaf plates.

Nitrogen chlorosis is manifested by yellowing veins on the lower leaves. Soon, the parts of the leaf adjacent to the veins lose color, then the entire leaf. Sulfuric chlorosis first affects young leaves. First, the veins turn yellow, and then the entire leaf plate.

Strawberry brown spot: treatment during flowering

Brown spotting is a widespread fungal disease. Its development is affected by increased humidity associated with constant precipitation or over watering. Because of this, the disease can appear in spring, summer and autumn.

Causes

The cause of the disease is the mycelium of the fungus. The main feature of this pathogen is its two-season nature: in the first year, development occurs during fruiting and is stored for the winter. A year later, in late spring, when the fruits begin to form, a second infection occurs, which negatively affects the crop.

The development of the disease is provoked by the same factors as other fungal infections: excessive watering, dense plantings, constant dampness of the soil in the garden, temporary cooling and overgrowing of the site with weeds.

Symptoms

Obvious signs of the disease are burns on the leaves (Figure 7). These are contourless brown-brown spots of oval or round shape. At the initial stage, they resemble small opaces along the edges of the leaf, after a while the spots grow, and dark leathery mushroom pads appear on top. Mustaches and peduncles are also covered with brown spots.

Figure 7. Signs of brown spot on strawberry leaves

Soon the leaves dry up and die, and the spores of the fungus remain. At the first rainfall, the spores will disperse throughout the garden.

Protection of strawberries from pests and diseases

To protect the bushes and get good yields, you need to apply an integrated system that includes agrotechnical, chemical, biological and quarantine measures.

Agrotechnical ones imply compliance with crop rotation, fulfillment of requirements for the timing and methods of soil cultivation, planting, weed control, and fertilization.

The chemical method consists in the use of special means of protection against a group of pests and diseases. To do this, in early spring, you need to remove damaged and dry leaves. At the first signs of powdery mildew, spotting and gray rot, the planting is treated with a Bordeaux mixture before the leaves begin to grow. During the period of leaf regrowth, when signs of white and brown spotting appear, they are treated with Euparen. During the formation of buds, they are treated against moths, gall midges and other pests with Actellik. After harvesting, plantings are treated with Topaz, Euparen or Switch.