Grafting in July garden trees. Grafting trees in summer timing video grafting time

Big variety varieties fruit trees- the dream of any gardener, which can be realized by mastering the technique of grafting. In an article prepared by the editors of the site site, we will talk in detail about optimal timing, basic methods and how to graft trees.

Basic concepts

First, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the basic concepts that will be applied when we talk about vaccination technology:

• Rootstock. This is the name of the plant on which we will plant new variety. As a rule, the grafting is done in the lower part of the plant. It can be a trunk (stem) or a root.
• scion- this is that part of the varietal plant that will be grafted onto the stock. The scion will form upper part plant, which is responsible for its varietal characteristics.

Rootstock and scion must match each other. Otherwise, engraftment may not occur. Plants that are botanically related are usually selected. You can not graft a pear on a birch. A forest pear or quince is suitable for her, if the creation is intended dwarf variety. However, pears, on separate branches of which apples grow, are very common.

Why you need to vaccinate

In horticulture, grafting is the transfer of part of one plant to another plant with the task of their mutual fusion. Subsequently, a new holistic organism is obtained, where a strong root system one "parent" begins to provide growth, as well as the formation of the ground part of the second. Moreover, this second one is invariably a specially selected species with the necessary qualities, as well as characteristics.

You ask: what is it for? In fact, grafting fruit trees can solve a lot of different difficulties in the garden:

• The most important thing is to shorten the waiting period for the first harvest. Trees bred from seed/stone will bear fruit not earlier than in five to six years, and in most cases in general in ten to fifteen years. And grafted on mature tree or for a 2-3-year-old seedling of the species, they can please the harvest in the second or third year.
• Vaccination will allow you to quickly get the look that you liked (for example, you saw a neighbor, family members in another area and “sunk down”). And you don’t need to buy a seedling, looking for such a variety in all nurseries - it’s enough just to get a cutting from a tree you have seen,
• Through vaccination different types on one tree you will greatly increase the diversity fruit crops in a private garden, and at the same time save the territory. On one apple or pear tree, for example, you can have three or four different varieties, and on a wild plum you can grow cherry plum, plum, and apricots at the same time!
• Grafting allows you to quickly replace an unsuccessful (not liked) view with a new one, with better parameters.
• With the help of grafting, it is possible to save a favorite variety if the trunk is injured (by mice, sunburn, misses when leaving) and the tree is threatened with death.
• Vaccination will help to obtain valuable, but hardly applicable to your conditions, fruit species. Even in mid-latitude conditions, you can harvest tender southern crops if you graft them onto local hardy varieties.

In addition to all the necessary changes in your garden, grafting is also interesting lesson. You will see: as a result of the very first results, you will be indomitably “dragged” into this world of grafting man-made miracles.

When to vaccinate

The best time for tree grafting in spring is early March - mid-April. In early spring usually grafted with cuttings. For successful merging of parts of trees, an active movement of juices in the rootstock is necessary. The scion should be in a calm state; for this, the cuttings are kept in a cool place for as long as possible. Budding is carried out later, at the end of April - May. Stone crops are grafted earlier, time spring vaccination pome fruits later, since the movement of juices in them is activated later.

Important! The time for summer grafting comes when the active growth of the branches ends. Vaccination is carried out with fresh grafts, a maximum of 2 - 2.5 hours after cutting.

For some types of fruit trees, autumn grafting is carried out. It can be successful if the warm weather lasts long.

Winter vaccination is a risky business. An exception when trees can be grafted in winter are plants wintering in a nursery or indoors in tubs.

Types of grafting fruit trees

The option of grafting technique depends on the period of the year, the condition of the stock, as well as the scion, variety and some other factors. The most common methods for grafting fruit trees include:

• Budding fruit trees. Fast and economical way, from one young shoot in the growth period, take up to five buds. To prepare the scion, cut out the shield-eyes with a growth bud from the shoot. Make a T-shaped incision in the bark on the rootstock. Place the scion in the incision, tie the wound. After two weeks, check the well-being of the procedure.
• Graft for the bark. The method is suitable for joining a rootstock, as well as a scion, which are quite different in thickness. For the operation, cut the base under a smooth stump, make a cutout on the bark. In the role of a scion, a young shoot with two or three awakening buds is suitable. Make an angled cut on the handle, insert into the incised base bark. Tie, then work garden pitch. Plant two or three scions per rootstock.
• Copulation fruit trees. Use for young thin shoots that cannot be hooked onto the bark. On the rootstock, as well as the scion, make oblique cuts, combine them with each other, tie them, then treat them with garden pitch. If the stock is thicker than the scion, place the cut of the planted cutting on the side of the base.
• Grafting in the side cut. On the rootstock on the side, make an incision with a narrowing to the bottom, cut the scion cutting from both sides and insert it into the incision on the base. Tie.
• Cleavage grafting. Cut off the base at a height of twelve centimeters from the ground, make a split in it, temporarily fixing the crevice. Cut off the stock from 2 sides, forming a wedge, stick it into the crevice. This method does not require tying, but carefully treat all open wounds of the plant with garden pitch.
• Ablactation fruit trees. The method helps to renew or replace damaged parts of the plant. Cut into the scion, as well as the rootstock, sections up to five centimeters long, connect, and also tie together.

Budding

This is one of the most common vaccination methods. The scion during budding is a single kidney (or, as gardeners often call it, an eye). It is taken from the offshoot of a cultivated species and grafted onto the trunk of either a wild branch or another varietal plant.

In the spring, they are budded (grafted) with a bud that formed the previous summer. It is taken from cuttings harvested in autumn or at the end of winter. Such a bud will grow and give rise to a new shoot in the current season - that is why spring budding is called budding with a sprouting eye.

However, during summer budding, the vaccination is performed with a kidney that has matured in the current season (cutting it straight from the tree before the operation). It will take root, winter in a new place and only move into growth. next spring. That is why summer budding is called sleeping eye budding.

Benefits of budding:

• Due to the small grafting area, the stock is almost not injured.
• If budding does not work out, the vaccination can be carried out again on the same rootstock.
• A minimum of graft material is required. This is extremely important if you managed to get only one cutting of a valuable variety: three or four eyes will allow you to bud three or four rootstocks!
• The budding procedure takes very little time, which is also important for the gardener.

For budding suitable conditions come twice a year. Both periods are connected with intensive sap flow in the rootstock:

• early spring, when the buds move into growth
• part of the second half of summer - from the end of July to mid-August.

During these periods, the bark of the rootstock exfoliates freely, and the cambium cells divide intensively, which simplifies the procedure, and the kidneys eventually take root as successfully as possible.

Graft for the bark

Sometimes a tree in the crown forms empty seats(for example, some branches were injured from the cold). In this case, bark grafting is similarly applied. For this purpose, an oblique cut is made on a branch or shoot, and an incision in the shape of the letter T is made on the bark. Then the end of the shoot is either inserted into this incision, tightly bandaged with a bandage and smeared with garden pitch. Cuttings for such grafting are taken thin, in order to make it easier to press the cut areas.

With oblique lateral budding, two oblique cuts are made at the ends of the cutting at angles of approximately 40 °, and an oblique cut is made on the branch, the depth of which is slightly greater than the length of the lateral side of the wedge at the base of the cutting. A cutting is inserted into the resulting gap. Then the grafting site is tied with a strapping material and a garden var is applied.

At a time when the bark falls off the wood easily, the bark grafting method, which has an L-shaped incision, can be used. In this case, on the one hand, one oblique cut of three to four centimeters is performed, and on the other hand, a small cut. The cut in the shape of an inverted L should be at an angle to the axis of the branch.

The upper incision is made at an angle of more than 90 ° and obliquely, so that the stalk is well strengthened in the section of the bark. It is required to make sure that the layers of the cambium converge with each other. For strength, they need to be fixed with carnations, tied with a bandage, and also coated with garden pitch.

Grafting into the gap is also carried out during the period when the bark of apple or pear trees easily falls off the wood. The stalk for such grafting is chosen extremely thin. At its base, a wedge of two to three centimeters is cut, and a five-centimeter incision is made on the branch. The stalk is placed in a slot so that six to eight buds remain on it to form a fruit branch. With this method, the gap needs to be treated with garden pitch, and tying and auxiliary fastening with carnations are not necessary.

It is advisable to harvest the cuttings that are planned to be used for grafting at the end of autumn (the last days of October - the beginning of November). They are cut off from mature shoots one year old, growing from south side trees, as well as shrubs.

Copulation

Copulation is a garden grafting of trees, where the cutting is similar in diameter to the rootstock. It should not exceed 1.6 cm. The best time for copulation is spring period, a couple of days before the buds bloom in the garden. If you want the grafting to be successful, the stock should just start to wake up, and the graft should still be at rest. For this purpose, it is prepared in late spring and left deep in the snow. There are two ways of copulation: ordinary and improved.

Ordinary copulation is when oblique sections of the stock, as well as the scion, of the same size grow together. The length of the cut should be made at an inclination of 15-25 °. The area of ​​contact must be greater than the area cross section rootstock five times.

How to do:

• An oblique sharp cut on the scion is performed below the kidney 1-1.6 centimeters down. The total number of eyes should not exceed five pieces. And above the uppermost kidney, the cut is made blunt. If the cuts are made according to the rules, then the rootstock and scion are entirely the same, forming a single branch. It remains to carefully fix it with electrical tape, trying not to shift in the cut zones. It is not recommended to cover the kidneys.
• Improved copulation is distinguished by the fact that the oblique cuts of the rootstock, as well as the scion, are additionally incised with a knife, creating peculiar tongues, which in the future adhere and grow together more tightly.

Recommendations for summer residents: making a garden graft fruit trees, it is not advisable to touch hands and third-party objects to open wood rootstock, as well as scion. Because of this, it is possible to infect or injure the tissues of the tree, which in the future will negatively affect the survival of the scion.

In a side cut

This method consists in grafting a cutting from a side view of a branch or seedling. Regrafting trees in this way can be done both in spring and summer, and on overgrown seedlings it is also suitable for winter grafting. With this method, it is possible not to cut the branches in the year of grafting until full survival and regrowth of the cutting, and the graft itself can be performed in any branch.

When grafting young trees it is very important total number select branches for regrafting those that have at their disposal a normal angle of retreat and are convenient for future skeletal branches.

On these branches, at a distance of twenty centimeters from their base, oblique cuts are made. For their implementation, only copulation knives are used. One side of the notch should be one centimeter longer than the other.

A cutting with three buds is prepared with two wedge-shaped cuts diagonal on both sides, in addition, one side of the wedge-shaped rib should be longer than the other, just like a cut on a rootstock knot. At the end of the preparation, the stalk is wedged into the incision and tightly bandaged plastic wrap.

Cleavage grafting

During the grafting of trees with your own hands, the most important thing is to combine the cambial layers of the scion, as well as the rootstock. For this use various methods cut cuttings. In summer, they are grafted not with a cutting, but with a kidney.

Before grafting trees into a split, learn correct sequence operations:

• Choose scion and rootstock of approximately the same thickness.
• Make two equal cuts from below on the cutting of the scion, creating a wedge.
• To graft trees into a split, cut off the top of the stock with pruners.
• With a knife, cut the rootstock from top to bottom, creating a split.
• Push the scion into the split of the rootstock with a wedge. If the diameters do not match, move the cutting to one side, connecting the cambial layers.
• Wrap the grafting site tightly with elastic tape.
• Cut off the excess scion with secateurs, leaving two or three buds. Coat the cut with garden pitch.

If you have grafted the tree correctly, as shown above, with a successful fusion, the growth of the scion will soon be observed. If the vaccination is bad, after two to four weeks the cutting dries up. By the end of the season, the growth may be slightly inferior to the usual, and the fusion becomes complete. special care in the future, there will be no need for vaccinations at the site. Although it is recommended to tie the seedling to a support, because. the area of ​​accretion for a year or two can be fragile.

For most breeds, there are aspects of vaccination that need to be known. The percentage of successful vaccinations directly depends not only on skill, but also on the breed of the plant. In all cases, a dormant (not growing, at rest) cutting is taken for the scion.

Ablactation

Ablactation is a simple but rarely used method of grafting plants, in which shoots that are next to each other grow together. In other words, the scion is not cut off, but applied to the rootstock. This method is also called proximity grafting.

You can combine the shoots in the butt, by approaching the tongue or the saddle, etc. In other words, the grafting mechanism is almost in everything similar to a simple or improved copulation.

As soon as the branches are completely grown together, the graft is disconnected from the original plant, and then it grows, and also feeds only on the rootstock.

1. On the scion, as well as the stock at the same level, having removed the bark in advance, make cuts equal in length and width. If the plants are already very old, also cut off the shoots upper layer wood.

Do not cut too long. Their length should be up to five centimeters.

1. Attach the rootstock and scion to each other with cuts so that their cambial layers converge.
2. After that, tightly tie the grafting site with twine or a special tape, then cover it with garden pitch or plasticine.
3. Near the grafting area, tie the branch of the original plant with wire (not very tight!), so that later it would be easier to detach the scion from it.
4. In order for the rootstock and scion to grow together better, many gardeners graft plants in a way that approaches the tongue. This method of ablactation differs only in that splits are made on the sections of both shoots: on one from top to bottom, and on the other from bottom to top. As with copulation with a tongue, it is thanks to the splits that the stock and scion are held together most tightly.

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Every gardener dreams of a beautiful garden with an abundance of fruits. Buying ready-made seedlings is expensive, and besides, you can run into a scam. It is better to create a variety of varieties with your own hands. Let's find out what plant grafting is, how to graft fruit trees in various ways, what equipment is useful in this, and what role the weather plays.

Grafting is a vegetative (without seeds) method of plant propagation, when one plant or part of it takes root on another.

That part (stalk, bud or branch) that is grafted and carries the varietal characteristics of a plant is called a scion. And the basis on which the scion takes root is the stock. They can serve as young plant(wild or cultivated), and old, and even broken. The stock is responsible for the nutrition and growth of the tree, determines its frost resistance.

The main purpose of grafting is to obtain a cultivated plant, since fruit trees do not transmit their varietal qualities through seeds. If you have high-quality wilds (seedlings) nearby, grafting your favorite varieties on them is easier, more reliable and cheaper than buying a ready-made seedling.

In order to save space You can graft several varieties on one trunk at once.

So it is possible replace the one you don't like to a more successful one.

And, of course, this way you can increase the frost resistance of the crop(for example, if an apricot is grafted onto a locally adapted plum tree).

We select the material

How to choose a rootstock?

1. Basic rule: the rootstock must be of the same species as the scion. The apple tree is well grafted onto the apple tree, the pear tree onto the pear tree, the sweet cherry tree onto the sweet cherry and cherry, etc. It is known that the apple tree takes root well on the mountain ash (and as a result of its “rapprochement” with other trees, new varieties were obtained), but everything is better -use genetically similar material.
2. The tree must be chosen healthy and strong.
3. Scion and rootstock must be compatible in terms of growth.
4. It is desirable that the fruits ripen at the same time. Skillfully selected varieties allow you to break this rule without losing the result, but this is the path of experienced gardeners.
5. If you want to get a columnar apple tree, the stock must be appropriate.
6. A tree grown from a seed is tall, has deep roots, is durable and more resistant to adverse factors. While the clonal rootstock (obtained by cuttings) is low, it begins to bear fruit earlier and brings more fruits commodity type.

How to choose a scion?

1. To make sure you palatability varieties, the donor tree must be mature and bear fruit for at least 2 years.
2. Cuttings must be one-year-old, healthy, without visible damage bark, and on the cut under the bark to have thin layer green cambium.

Necessary tools and materials

The following tool is used for vaccination:

1. Secateurs- for cutting cuttings.
2. Copulation knife- to separate the bark.
3. garden saw- for cutting thick branches.
4. garden knife- for cutting thin branches. Some use regular clerical instead.

Along with the usual knife, an budding knife is used: it is equipped with a “bone” for separating the bark. In addition, there are combined knives - with two blades on the handle.

Some gardeners advise using several knives: one for cutting branches, the second for cuts, and the third for putty with garden pitch.

Additionally, you may need a flat screwdriver (to make a wedge in place of the split).

Must have on hand electrical tape or film And garden pitch (resin).

The tool must be sharp and serviceable. Must be processed before each use alcohol.

When can trees be grafted?

Let's deal with the question, when can trees be grafted? Vaccinations are winter, spring and summer. Each season has its own benefits.

Winter vaccination allows you to get a varietal one-year-old seedling next fall.

Its main amenities:

• the gardener has more time;
• work is carried out in a warm room;
• survival rate - 97%.

Timing winter vaccinations fluctuate from December to mid-April. The main thing is to finish the work 2 weeks before planting the seedlings. Preparation begins in the fall: before frost, one-year-old or two-year-old shoots are dug up (you can also use root shoots) with a bole thickness of at least 7 mm, some of the roots are cut off and put away for storage in the cellar. For scion, annual shoots are cut from the outer part of the crown, varieties are signed and also put in the cold. 2 days before vaccination, they are transferred to a warm place.

Vaccination in the spring considered the most physiological. It lasts from March to early June, during active sap flow on the rootstock. The scion can be harvested in the fall or cut immediately before the process. For successful fusion, he must “sleep”.

Summer vaccinations have their advantages:

1. You can assess the condition of the overwintered stock and choose the best trees.
2. Cuttings do not require storage.
3. There is time to try again.
4. The grafted branch tends to give more side branches, which is convenient for crown formation.

The optimal time for vaccination is August. In summer, plant in cloudy but dry weather. The leaves from the cutting must be removed. It is also important what time to vaccinate. In the heat (if it is not possible to wait it out), work is carried out before noon and after 16 hours.

How to harvest cuttings?

The stalk is not just any branch, as it seems at first glance.

For creating good garden material must be carefully selected:

1. It is necessary to harvest cuttings from a fruit-bearing tree that has shown a good yield.
2. An annual shoot with at least two buds is taken as a cutting (it is better when there are 4-5 of them).
3. Foliage and bark should be healthy.
4. Branches on the outer south side of the crown are best suited, where there is better illumination.
5. It is advisable to take material from the middle tier.
6. The cross section of an ideal handle is 6 - 7 mm (like a simple pencil).
7. In the spring, the buds on the cuttings should sleep.
8. If you are going to graft in the summer, it is better to cut the graft on the day of vaccination and use it within 3 hours.
9. In winter, cuttings must be checked for viability. Make a small transverse cut: if there is a green layer under the bark, the cutting is alive.

Vaccination methods

There are several ways to vaccinate:

1. Vaccination on the spot.
2. Split grafting.
3. Ablactation.
4. Budding.

The choice depends on the size of the tree, the climate and the season.

For the bark

This method is used when there is a significant difference in the thickness of the rootstock and scion. The terms of vaccination are from the beginning to the active stage of sap flow.

The stock is cut under the stump. As a scion, dormant or awakening cuttings are used, cut to 2-3 buds. The lower part of them must be cut at an acute angle in order to obtain a cut 2.5 - 3 cm long. An incision of the same length is made on the stump, then carefully special knife the bark is separated, after which the stalk of the scion is inserted there. The place of fusion is tied and treated with garden pitch.

For better survival on the handle, along with the oblique, a horizontal incision is also made - the so-called saddle, with which the scion “sits” on the stump.

In total, 2 - 3 shoots can be “planted” on a stump.

Video instruction is below.

In the cut

Produced in stock of any thickness. It is mainly used to renew the crown of an old tree. In this way, you can graft in winter, spring and summer.

A slit narrowing downwards is cut out on the side of the tree, where a scion cut into 2 buds and cut from both sides along an oblique graft is wedged. After that, the plant is tied and treated with garden pitch.

More details in the video below.

In split

It is used for trees with rough bark or damaged by unsuccessful vaccinations. The simplest and The best way for a beginner. In a split, they are grafted before the start of sap flow.

The stock is cut down under the stump and cleaned with a garden knife. Then a slot is made in it and a temporary wedge is inserted. The scion is a twig with 5 buds, cut from both sides at an angle and inserted into the slot, after which the wedge is removed. If the stock is much thicker, insert a handle on each side. The plant can not be tied, because a natural clamp is created. At the end, everything is treated with garden pitch open spaces. More details are shown in the video.

The copulation method is used on a thin rootstock when grafting over the bark is not possible. It allows you to cultivate very young seedlings, without waiting until the bole is strengthened. Copulation is carried out when the trees are asleep: in winter or spring before the start of sap flow. For winter grafting, trees must be dug up in the fall, and planted with a scion in the spring.

Normal copying is done like this. The graft is shortened to 2 - 3 buds. Equal oblique cuts are made on the scion and rootstock. Then the sections are applied to each other and wrapped with electrical tape. If the branches match in thickness, the scion lies on top. If the rootstock is much thicker, the scion is placed on the side so that the bark and cambial layer coincide - in this case, up to 3 cuttings can be grafted.

The method of improved copulation consists in adding a “tongue” to the cut - an additional incision on both branches. “Tongues” allow for a stronger grip and better hold in the future. If we graft onto a stump, we also make a “saddle” during copulation.

Here is a video on how to copulate.

In addition, summer copulation with green cuttings is possible. This refers to the leafy parts of the stem with several buds. The stalk is planted on an unrooted stock, and then the resulting plant is rooted under conditions high humidity or artificial fog. The method is most often used for grapes and flowers, but can also be used for fruit trees.

Ablactation

It consists in merging two plants, i.e., not a stalk, but a living tree or shrub serves as a scion. The thickness of the plants may be similar or different. The entire growing season is suitable for work, but the best time is spring.

This method is mainly used for garden decoration. It allows you to fill the desired area, close the voids - especially when we are talking about creeping forms. Also, with the help of ablactation, you can give the plant additional nutrition from another root.

Ablactation of plants similar in thickness is carried out in the butt (by oblique cuts to each other, “tongues” can be cut out). If the stock is much thicker, its bark is trimmed and a scion is placed there. The place of fusion is bandaged.

Ablactation on the example of citrus grafting.

Budding

Kidney grafting, i.e. budding, is the most common type of grafting. The graft for grafting is a single bud, which gardeners call the "eye". It is taken from the shoot of a cultivated plant and takes root on a branch or trunk of another variety or wild game.

Spring budding is carried out by a bud formed last summer. For this, cuttings are harvested in autumn or at the end of winter. Already in the same season, the kidney will begin to germinate and give rise to a new shoot.

If the vaccination is carried out in the summer with a freshly cut kidney, then it will take root, overwinter and begin to grow only next spring.

Video about the features of summer budding:

How long does the vaccine take?

After vaccination, it is necessary to observe the plant. How long does a graft take root on a tree? After 2 weeks, the accustomed shoots begin to grow. A month later, it is already clear whether there is a result, because the stalk that has not taken root dries up. If everything went well, the graft with the stock will grow together in 1.5 - 2 months.

As the shoot grows, it is necessary to loosen the strapping. When the scion grows 10 cm (or after a year), it can be completely removed.

Can conifers be grafted?

Graft coniferous trees and shrubs is not only possible, but also effective. With its help, you can settle in the garden a large number of ornamental plants.

The basic rules are the same as for fruit trees: healthy plants of the same species are selected, cuttings are stored for no more than 2 weeks, work is carried out as quickly as possible.

There are also differences:

• it is better to cut the cuttings from the upper tier;
• the optimum air temperature at the time of vaccination is + 15 + 22 degrees. In areas with a cool climate, a bag must be put on the plant.

An important point: all the needles are removed from the scion, leaving only the top. The appearance of new needles is an indicator of success and a signal that it is time to remove the package.

Tricks and wisdom of the gardener

To improve the results of vaccination work, these tricks and wisdom from professionals will help:

1. An even cut of the cutting is a test for beginner gardeners. In addition, you need to properly cut at a time. Therefore, before garden work it is advisable to practice on pear branches: they have solid wood.
2. A good garden pitch should soften in the sun without heating.
3. Use a special, sharp, serviceable tool treated with alcohol.
4. Before work, rinse the cuttings with water and keep in a damp cloth.
5. Avoid prolonged contact of the inoculum with air and do not touch it with your hands.
6. Sections of the bark and cambium on the scion and rootstock should match as much as possible.
7. The longer the cut, the more successful the fusion.
8. At the bottom of the scion, it is recommended to remove 0.5 - 1 cm of the bark to increase the area of ​​fusion.
9. Above the cut at the scion, it is desirable to have a healthy kidney, because this stimulates the development of the branch. In addition, if the cutting breaks, a new varietal shoot can be grown from this bud.
10. It is desirable to process with a garden pitch not only the end of the stock, but also the upper cut of the scion. This reduces evaporation, thereby providing better survival. In addition, a bag can be put on the place of accretion. Bud break will show when the pack can be removed from the vaccine.
11. The bark removal tool can be made from an ordinary 100 mm nail. To do this, you need to grind it to half the thickness and 2 cm of length, and then sharpen the tip.
12. If several sticks, towering above the scion, are tied to the graft, this will save the escape from birds that like to sit on wrapped branches.

Planting grafted seedlings

Grafted trees are planted in the ground in the same way as ordinary trees. Here we will only touch on the points related to vaccination.

There are different opinions why it is impossible to bury the vaccine in a seedling. The most harmless: the scion forms roots, which reduces the winter hardiness of the plant. They also write that the vaccine will die. The most correct answer: the graft is located above the root collar. So, if you deepen the vaccination, then root collar will fall asleep, and this entails the death of the tree.

In which direction to plant a tree by grafting, does not have of great importance. One has only to pay attention to the location of the skeletal branches of the seedling. They need to be directed to the north or northwest, because in the future the main development of the branches will go from the south side.

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Improving the structure of the orchard and its condition in summer has a number of advantages and allows:

• Rationally use work time during a year;
• Increase the time for selection of varieties;
• Assess the condition of the trees after selected as a rootstock;
• Correct miscalculations made as a result of spring vaccination;
• Reduce storage costs for cuttings.

Timing of vaccination

By mid-summer, annual shoots stop their intensive growth., in the upper part the distance between the kidneys and the formation of the apex is completed. At this time, the shoot wood hardens and the young bark begins to easily separate from the core.

Coming best time for apple trees. To check the status, make an incision sharp knife and tuck in the edge of the bark. If the separation occurs freely, then the shoot is ripe and can be used for grafting.

Calendar dates depend on climate zone, weather conditions and fruiting period of apple trees. The beginning is in mid-July. Grafting of an apple tree in July with a cutting should be completed two to three weeks before the start of the decline. average daily temperature below 15 degrees C, that is, in fact, the procedure can be performed and:

• In the north - until August 5;
• In the central - until August 15;
• In the south - until August 30.

At the same time, the grafting of apple trees in summer with fresh cuttings should be completed earlier for varieties more early dates maturation. Autumn and late varieties of long ripening periods have later grafting dates.

Procurement of cuttings

Cuttings are used as rootstock:

• Annual shoot at least 30 cm long;
• With a cut diameter of 5-6 cm;
• well matured;
• Having a characteristic color for the variety;
• Undamaged by pests;
• No signs of disease.

Prepare material better south side of the tree, removing competing branches so as not to harm the mother plant.

The shoots are very elongated, with too long distances between the kidneys and have a light green color. may not be ready enough or weakened.

Storage of cuttings

For summer vaccination, cuttings are prepared on the day of work or the day before, then they are stored in water. It is better to carry out the work within 2-3 hours.

Thus it is possible keep cuttings up to two weeks, but this will reduce survival. The most favorable for harvesting are the morning hours without rain.

From a cut branch leaves are removed immediately, as moisture quickly evaporates through them, which reduces the quality of the scion.

It is better to harvest kidneys for budding from the middle of the run, choosing more flattened and elongated, which are growth.

With a sharp knife for budding at a height of 1.5-2 cm above the bud, an incision begins, until the bud the knife moves between the bark and wood, at the level of the bud it goes deep in order to capture the layer of wood to provide the scion with sufficient nutrition.

Such a cut is called "with shield". The length of the cut of the bark at the bottom is slightly shorter than at the top (1.0-1.5 cm). The cut surface should protect from dirt, to prevent infection.

ADVICE! Not all methods are suitable for vaccination in the summer. Most effective method- kidney budding, which is performed in two ways:

• in T - figurative section;
• in an example.

Summer grafting of apple trees with green cuttings: video

Budding in T - shaped incision

On the selected rootstock is done vertical cut to the depth of the bark to the wood, above - transverse at a slight angle to him.

Vertical section on the rootstock.

The size of the incision should correspond to the size of the shield. Without lifting the knife gently peel back the bark And insert the prepared kidney into the incision so that it is as close as possible to the wood of the rootstock.

Placement of the kidney in the rootstock.

For better survival, the kidney should be located cut closer to the bottom. The edges of the cut should be even, cut off the excess with a knife.

The kidney should fit snugly against the rootstock.

The grafting site is tightly wrapped with a film or electrical tape, winding it in a spiral as tightly as possible: starting from the bottom, and then back from top to bottom. The kidney must remain open.

Fastening a kidney to a rootstock.

The remaining part of the petiole (1 cm) can become a kind of indicator. If after 2-3 weeks its tail easily falls off, then the kidney has taken root.

Important! It is necessary to remove the strapping during the summer vaccination only next spring.

Budding in the butt

Is used for old trees and large branches with rough bark, which does not move well from the wood. At the place of grafting on the rootstock, a cut of the bark with a thin strip of wood 0.5-0.7 cm wide is made from top to bottom 2.5-3 cm.

A cut of the bark on the stock.

Cut off from the strip 2/3. The rest is bent, a wedge-shaped incision is made at the bottom at an angle. A shield with a kidney is inserted into the incision under the bark.

The kidney is inserted into the lower part of the incision.

The binding is performed in the same way as in the first case. The open sections of the cuts are covered with garden pitch.

Wrapping with foil or tape.

Watch the video on how to properly perform summer budding in the butt:

Summer grafting of apple trees with cuttings

In the summer, grafting methods with a green cutting can be used:

• In split. Grafting of apple trees in summer with cuttings is done with a branch with 1-2 buds. It is used when the diameter of the rootstock is much thicker than that of the scion. The cutting below the kidney is cut at a long oblique angle on both sides. The stock is split with a sharp knife by 2-3 cm. Two cuttings are inserted into the split, which increases the survival rate. Work should be carried out quickly, to prevent drying and contamination of the material;
• Into the side cut. Used for grafting young branches. A stalk, pointed on both sides, is inserted into an oblique cut of the bark with wood on a rootstock, achieving maximum abutment;
• B T - shaped incision. It is performed in the same way as with budding. Instead of one kidney with a shield, a stalk with two is used. With an oblique cut, the scion is inserted into the incision on the rootstock.

The place of inoculation in all cases is tightly wrapped with a film and shaded. The kidney remains free.

Rootstock selection

Attention! The stock should be selected taking into account the type of plant to be grafted and the timing of its fruiting.

If a late shoot is grafted onto an early plant, then during the growing season it will not have enough time to form a normal crop.

On the skeletal branches of the apple tree can be grafted several varieties with similar terms and vigor of growth, which will even improve fruiting, taking into account cross-fruiting.

For an apple tree the best stock will be those grown by sowing seeds. Preference is given to varieties Antonovka and Anis, as they are well adapted with other varieties.

Also used wild animals grown without human intervention. They are transplanted into orchard and after rooting, they are grafted with selected varieties.

Vaccination for a wild

Suitable for summer vaccinations only young trees or root shoots with a diameter of the grafted branch of 0.8-1.5 cm, located close to the trunk. Excess branches and shoots formed below the grafting site, which are not suitable for subsequent use, must be removed.

If one variety is grafted onto a wild game, then only a trunk up to 70 cm high is left and the grafting method is used in split. If several skeletal branches are chosen for grafting, you can graft budding or side incision.

The plant must have enough moisture to heal, so in dry, hot weather, the grafting site should be shade and protect from moisture evaporation.

Pear graft

As a stock, it is recommended to use plants of the species that we will graft. The compatibility of scion and rootstock is a decisive factor in obtaining good harvest from grafted plants in a short time.

But the inquisitive mind of breeders is constantly working to create new varieties and hybrids through interspecific vaccinations.

One of the experiments of closely related grafting - apple trees for pear. There are positive examples, although they are few.

The method is not practiced everywhere, but has the right to life. If the gardener is ready to spend 3-5 years on the experiment, then perhaps nature will thank him for his diligence with a good harvest.

Conclusion

Graft garden plants not only an exciting process, but also an opportunity to realize your dreams of creating a garden of Eden with your own hands.

When propagated by seeds, all fruit and berry plants give heterogeneous offspring, and the properties of hybrid seedlings deteriorate significantly compared to their parents. Therefore, it is impossible to get exactly Antonovka from the seeds of the Antonovka apple tree. The offspring of Antonovka, grown from seeds, will be the most diverse in terms of fruit quality and not similar to Antonovka. Therefore, reproduction and preservation of a rich assortment cultivated plants only possible by vaccination.

Eye grafting (budding)

Vaccination methods are different. The most widely used in practice was grafting with an eye - budding in the nursery. This is a reliable way to propagate valuable varieties. Grafting a valuable variety onto a dwarf rootstock can reduce the growth of a fruit tree. Dwarf trees are convenient for harvesting, processing and caring for them. They enter the fruiting season earlier.

Various ways vaccinations are used in the breeding and improvement of new varieties, but the most important and desired value has been grafted when improving the assortment in existing plantations, as well as in the treatment of trees damaged by frost and rodents. Grafting is useful in that any low-value variety can be re-grafted with a valuable variety, improving the assortment of the garden. In the gardens of amateur gardeners, sometimes there is not enough pollinator for the desired variety. This disadvantage can be easily corrected by grafting a pollinator variety into the crown of any tree.

Regrafting can be done on any trees, both young and old. By regrafting, they simultaneously rejuvenate the tree, replacing the old skeletal branches with cuttings from which young branches grow.

The most common and practically acceptable methods of grafting are: cuttings by the bark with a cut in the bark, half-split, bridge.

Cuttings behind the bark with a cut in the bark

The trees on which it is planned to graft the cuttings over the bark with a cut in the bark are rejuvenated early in the spring so that the remaining cuttings on the cut (at the end) are from 7 to 10 centimeters thick. Larger branches should not be sawn off, as the bark in their thick part is too rough and not suitable for grafting. Sawing off weak branches for grafting is also not recommended. A stalk grafted into the thin upper part of a bough will develop very poorly due to its unstable position. The main disadvantage of grafting on thin branches is that most of the tree crown remains ungrafted.

It is necessary to provide that on the stump, below the grafting site, there is an escape, which at first is needed to provide the grafted cutting with nutrition. Sawed (torn) stumps are smoothed before grafting by cutting with a sharp knife so that they swim faster. Grafting (insertion) of the cutting should be carried out during the period of sap flow that has begun, approximately in the last days of May. The stalk for insertion behind the bark is prepared as follows: with a sharp copulation knife, an oblique cut is made from the side opposite the lower kidney, and at the top, strictly above the third (upper) kidney, it is cut off. An oblique cut can be made with a straight or saddle ledge.

In the place of the hemp where the prepared cutting should be inserted, the bark is cut lengthwise and the bone of the grafting knife is separated from the wood. The length of the cut of the hemp bark should be equal to or slightly less than the length of the oblique cut of the cutting. An incision for inserting the cutting must be made in the upper part of the stump, since the branches in the crown of the tree are not located vertically, but obliquely. It is possible to plant 2-3 cuttings in one stump, since in the process of growth the grafts break off in the wind.

But finally, for life, only one well-established cutting, the future branch, should be left. Having unfolded the bark with a bone, the stalk is inserted so that with an oblique cut it faces the wood of the stock, and the ledge (shoulder or saddle) rests firmly on the end of the stump.

In order for the stalk to fit snugly with an oblique cut to the hemp wood and not fall out from under the bark, the vaccinations must be tied with large twine or strong bast and cover the hemp area with soft garden putty.

Grafting fruit trees split

The ancient, simplest method of grafting cleft trees has its positive aspects: you can graft them on old trees, broken large branches, without waiting for sap flow; it is simple in technique. But the split made over the entire thickness of the stump branch causes too serious damage, which is very difficult and slowly overgrows. Often, splitting leads to decay of wood and the formation of a hollow. IN garden practice an improved method of grafting entered - half-split.

When grafting half-split, the branch or branch is first cut down, after which the end part of the branch foam is beveled, cutting it obliquely. After smoothing pruning with a knife on the horizontal part of the cut, the branches are split in such a way that it does not reach the opposite side of the branch stump. Half-split grafting cuttings are prepared as follows: two oblique cuts are made on the cutting (on opposite sides, slightly retreating from the lower kidney), giving it a flat-wedge shape. The wedge must be made in such a way that its outer part is wider than the inner edge of the graft cutting.

For better fixation and strength, straight ledges called hangers are cut out in the upper part of the cutting intended for grafting. When placing the cutting in the split, it is necessary to ensure that its bark coincides with the bark of the stump, and with its shoulders it rests on the edges of the split. It is better to stuff clay into the splitting crack, and cover the top of the stump and cutting with garden pitch. A well-clamped stalk in a split can not be tied.

Interesting tree grafting ideas (video)

Bridge grafting

Bridge grafting is recommended to prevent the death of a tree that has been eaten by mice, damaged by sunburn, or peeled off by tools. If the bark is only partially damaged, on one side of the trunk and branch, then one bridge (stalk) is usually inserted. In case of extensive damage, when the bark is destroyed on the trunk or branch all around, so many bridges are placed so that the distance from one to the other does not exceed 3 cm. The fused bridges connect the divided sections of the bark of the trunk or branches and provide nourishment and water supply to the areas of the tree located above the damage site.

Vaccination with a bridge should be performed in the spring, when the sap flow is especially active, but it can also be done in the summer, during the second sap flow.

For spring grafting with a bridge, annual shoots are used, which are harvested in autumn or early spring, but before the buds swell. The cuttings are made so that their length exceeds the length of the damaged areas of the bark by 5-6 centimeters. At the ends of the handle with a copulation knife, beveled cuts are made on one side in the same way as with the grafting method “by the bark”. Before inserting the bridges, the edges of the wound are cleaned, longitudinal incisions are made above and below it. The length of the incisions in the bark should be significantly less than the length of the beveled sections on the grafting cutting. The ends of the prepared cutting are inserted into these cuts under the bark in such a way that its lower part (in the course of growth) falls to the bottom of the wound, and the upper part to the top. Oblique cuts of the handle should be directed to the wood of the trunk.

It is very important that the handle is somewhat longer and, after being inserted into the cuts, is a little springy. The inserted cuttings must be tightly tied at the top and bottom with twine or sticky PVC tape, you can nail them with thin carnations and cover them with soft garden putty. It is advisable to tie all grafting sites with plastic wrap or burlap with white paper to retain moisture and to prevent bud germination on inserted bridges. During the summer, it is necessary to review the vaccinations and loosen the ties.

Bridges grafted from cuttings in most cases quickly grow into the stem tissue or into the tissue of tree branches, take on the role of a conductor of water and nutrients, and thereby save the tree from death.

The article is addressed beginner gardeners, taking the first steps in the summer vaccination apple trees.

The article addresses the question of how to grow on one trunk different varieties apples.

It's told step by step, where to get a kidney for vaccination how to choose a strong stock, when it is better to bud in the summer, as well as useful videos.

Grow different varieties on the same apple tree- quite an achievable goal for fruit growers.

To do this, you need to master the technique of grafting fruit trees, know the timing, clarify the compatibility of varieties.

Violation of technology will lead in 90% of cases to an unsatisfactory result and wasted time.

In practice, it has been proven that top scores gives summer vaccination by kidney (mid-June-end of August).

because the second period of sap flow is richer in nutrients, the tree has already grown stronger after hibernation, will be able to provide the grafted eye with everything necessary.

Not the last role is played by the availability of free time, when the spring emergency has already passed and only current events remain.

Rootstock selection

Rootstock.

Optimal rootstock it is considered a one-two-year-old shoot grown from a seed. Varieties:

• Anise.
• Chinese.
• Antonovka.

originally zoned, resistant to local diseases and climate. Their disadvantage is that fruiting occurs 4-5 years after vaccination.

Dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks more precocious and bear fruit for 2-3 years, but require constant additional care: watering, top dressing, pruning.

Scion preparation

Rootstock preparation.

desired variety it is more convenient to take at . For this, annual lignified branches 30-40 cm long are suitable, to be removed.

Used for vaccination growth buds, more elongated than flower buds. They are located in the middle part of the annual growth.

On a note! On the illuminated side of the tree, the buds are the most viable.

From the harvested shoots cut off 4-5 cm tops, remove leaves, stipules. Leaf petioles should be left for convenience. further work and as an indicator of survival.

It is good if the grafting material can be taken in a neighboring garden and start budding on the same day.

If this is not possible, the cuttings with buds must be protected from drying out - wrapped in a damp cloth or transported in a plastic bottle, wrapped in wet paper.

Preparation for vaccination

Grafting knife.

Vaccination Tool is prepared in advance.

Grafting knife should be sharp enough to cut wood at the cellular level, and not crush or tear it. The burrs left after the incision prevent the passage of juices, which significantly reduces the nutrition of the kidney and the chances of full engraftment.

For a good exfoliation of the bark the day before, the stock is watered abundantly.

Budding is carried out in cloudy, windless weather. On a hot day, the chances of a dense fusion are reduced and it is necessary to additionally shade the operation site with plastic wrap to prevent burns and drying out.

Many gardeners for insurance two buds are grafted onto one stem at a distance of 10-15 cm from different sides. In the future, a stronger shoot is left as the main trunk.

Execution technique

Summer kidney () is similar to surgery in the human body.

Therefore, the requirements for it are the same:

• Purity.
• Speed.
• Accuracy.

Grafting technology:

Budding. step by step algorithm.

1. Leaves and branches are removed from the rootstock at a level of 15-20 cm from the ground.
2. The grafting site and the stalk with the kidney are washed clean water, wipe with a dry cloth.
3. With a grafting knife, cut the bark to the wood across the seedling .
4. From the middle of the transverse incision down, make an incision 2-3 cm long.
5. Raise the corners of the bark at the T-junction.
6. Choose a suitable bud on the handle.
7. Cut off part of the stem 2.5-3 cm long, which includes a thin strip of bark with wood, and with a dormant bud in the middle of the shield.
8. With a knife bone, peel off the bark on the rootstock so that the shield enters the cut without effort.
9. Insert the kidney into the incision, holding the handle, until it stops. Cut off the excess shield at the level of the transverse incision of the scion.
10. Wrap the place of budding tightly with polymer tape (duct tape) from top to bottom. Leave the eye open.

Attention! The speed and quality of splicing depends on the tightness of the fit of the cut parts.

The whole procedure is carried out in one step and in the shortest time. Beginners are advised to practice in advance to gain experience.

After 2-3 weeks, it will be seen whether the vaccination was successful.

• If the petiole is dry and fell off from touch, everything is in order, the kidney has engrafted b.
• Otherwise - Something went wrong, over time, the eye will dry out and overgrow with a new bark.

Summer vaccination is convenient in that if the gardener fails, he has time to try again.

Rootstocks in the trunk of an apple tree.

Timing

• At the end of June first of all, early ripening varieties are grafted so that this year's growth reaches 30-50 cm.
• In July, with the beginning of the second sap flow, vaccinations for the bark take root better.
• For August varieties of late ripening will remain. New branches on them will appear next year.

Watch the video on how apple trees are grafted in the summer. Gardening experience.