Materials science textile industry produces fabrics, non-woven. Materials Science

The purpose of the lesson: To systematize and supplement the knowledge gained in elementary grades about fabrics and their manufacture from plant fibers of cotton and flax. Familiarize yourself with the types of weaving of threads and the definition of sides in the fabric.

To form the ability to determine the warp and weft threads, front and back sides;

To cultivate respect for the professions of weavers and spinners;

Develop curiosity.

Visual aids: “Cotton”, “Linen”, “Fiber” collections, cotton wool, yarn, illustrations, samples of fabrics with an edge.

Equipment and materials: magnifiers, needles, boxes, scissors, cotton wool, fabrics.

Terms: materials science, fiber, cotton, linen, fabric, equal, yarn, threads, warp, weft, right side, wrong side, plain weave.

During the classes

I. Organizational part.

1. Job preparation.
2. Greetings.
3. Attendance count.
4. Message about the topic and purpose of the lesson.

II. Main part.

Introduction by the teacher.

Today we are starting to study a new, interesting section “Materials Science”.

The topic of our lesson is “Journey into the world of plant fiber fabrics”.

The purpose of the lesson.

The task of our lesson is to get acquainted with the fibers, their types, the production of fabrics, the types of weaving, the definition of the sides in the fabric. But we cannot begin to study this topic without remembering the classes held in elementary school.

IN primary school in labor lessons you mainly worked with paper. But not all of you know that paper and some types of fabric (vegetable origin) have one base - cellulose.

For this lesson, an exhibition of collage paintings is framed, where various materials are used.

Question: Has cloth always existed?

Student responses:

Question: Have you ever worked with fabric?

Student responses:

Question: What was the clothing of primitive man?

Student responses:

Q: What is the purpose of fabrics?

Student responses:

And today I suggest you make not just a trip, but a scientific expedition to explore the history of the appearance of cotton and linen fabrics.

I will act as the leader of the expedition, and you will be my colleagues - "scientists". You are divided into 3 groups. Each group represents a creative laboratory. The expedition begins with an excursion into the past, during which information about the fabric and fibers is reported.

Man has been using fabric since ancient times. We are so used to it that we don’t even think about when we sew a product, how fabrics are obtained and from what raw materials. It is hard to imagine how, in the light of torches, in dark huts, our great-great-grandmothers spun and wove fabrics. They created marvelous patterns, painted white canvases with vegetable paints and printed a picture.

Slide. Nettle.

Ancient records show that the first fibers that man used to make threads were nettle and hemp fibers.

Currently, a large number of different fibers, both natural and chemical, are used. All of them are combined into a group of textile fibers.

Slide. Fiber classification

Question: What is fiber?

Answer: These are small, thin bodies. Write it down in your notebook.

And now the researchers will introduce us to the natural fibers of cotton and flax.

Cotton has been known to man for 5000 years. It is a shrub tropical plant.

The birthplace of cotton is India. Until the 16th century, the Indians kept cotton production secret. Only finished fabrics were imported to Europe. Cotton has been grown in Russia since the 18th century. There are 35 types of cotton growing in the world, but only 4 types are suitable for fibers.

Cotton is very fond of warm climates. It is grown in Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan. The plant reaches a height of up to 1 meter. The fruits of cotton are boxes in which there are from 7 to 15 thousand fibers. They are very short: from 6 to 50 millimeters. The natural color of cotton fibers is white or cream, sometimes there are other colors (beige, green).

Cotton fibers: white, fluffy, thin, short, soft, durable, matte.

Fabrics made from cotton are called cotton. These include: cambric, calico, velveteen, satin, chintz, teak, flannel. These fabrics are durable, hygienic, soft, warm, light, comfortable to wear, wash well, iron, but wrinkle.

Scheme of primary processing of cotton

1. Raw cotton is obtained from boll seeds.
2. It is sorted by quality.
3. They are pressed into bales and sent to a spinning mill.

Production process of cotton fabrics

In the high palace there are small caskets,
Who opens them - extracts white gold.

Linen (linen fiber)

Flax is an annual, herbaceous plant known to man since the Stone Age. Several thousand years before our era, linen fabrics were known in Egypt and Georgia.

In Russia, flax has been grown everywhere since the 10th century. There are up to 200 types of flax in the world, but fiber flax is most suitable for the production of flax fiber. It is a unique fibrous plant with long, flexible and strong fibers. The flax stalk reaches a height of up to 120 cm, each of them contains from 300 to 650 fibers.

Fiber length - 35-90 mm.

Color - from light gray to dark gray.

Linen has a characteristic luster, the fibers have a smooth surface.

Once in the old days they said: “Whoever flax exhausts, he will make rich”. And after all richly, cheerfully lived. They did not break their hats in front of the capital's merchant. Lyon fed, clothed, helped build houses, raise children. And even now the flax breadwinner does not leave us. Everyone who knows a lot about flax - they protect their health. So it turns out that flax is again the head of everything ..

Linen in Russia was called "Russian silk", and "Russian gold". Do you know what else he is famous for? Fire hoses are woven from it, ropes are twisted, tow is made. The fragrant oil is squeezed out of the seed. Seed is added to the most expensive sweets, halva, cookies. It is used in medicine and perfumery.

Flax is the wealth of our land, its decoration, it is the pride and glory of Russia.

Flax is grown in the Vologda, Ivanovo, Kostroma, Kirov, Yaroslavl regions, in Siberia, as well as in Ukraine, Belarus, and the Baltic states. The whole plant is used for the benefit of man:

Seeds (for fiber, oil);

Stems (fiber for fabrics);

Waste (tow for technical purposes).

Scheme of primary processing of flax.

Linen fibers: light grey, smooth, long, thick, straight, strong.

Production process of linen fabrics.

Poems and songs, riddles, proverbs and sayings were composed about flax:

Millennium profession -
Cherish the thin long-haired.
Where in every whisk - poetry!
And man is its creator.
Linen is strong and white,
Not good for health.
Only one problem - forgot
How everyone loved him!

And here is the riddle:

Blue eye, golden stem.
Modest in appearance
Famous all over the world
Feeds, clothes and decorates the house.

Slide

Sayings and proverbs about flax.

1. Flax exhausts, flax and gilded.
2. Flax was not born - it came in handy in the washcloth!
3. Mni flax share - the fibers will be more.
4. Seyan flax at seven Alyons.
5. Linen is a profitable crop, it is both money and kind.
6. The seed is for the tribe, and the thread is for the fabric.
7. Not the earth will give birth to flax, but wetted.
8. You don’t smash with a pulp - you remember at the spinning wheel.

How to guess the harvest by signs?

1. Long icicles - long flax.
2. Flax should be sown when the last flowers bloom on the bushes.
3. If the linen does not dry in winter, flax will be good.
4. The land after plowing becomes overgrown with moss - flax will be fibrous.
5. The cuckoo cuckooed - it's time to sow flax.
6. Flax blooms for two weeks, sings for four weeks, blows on the seventh seed.

Song-physical minute “I already sowed, sowed lenok”.

Under the oak forest - oak flax,
I have already sowed, sowed flax,
Already I, sowing, sentenced,

I nailed it with chabots!
You succeed, succeed lenok,
You succeed, my little white lenok!

I weeded, weeded flax,
I, polovshi, sentenced,

Chorus.

Already I pulled, pulled lenok,
Already I, pulling, sentenced,

Chorus.

And I made, yes I made flax,
I have already laid, sentenced,

Chorus.

I soaked, soaked flax,
Already wet, sentenced,

Chorus.

I dried, dried flax,
I, drying, sentenced,

Chorus.

I ruffled, ruffled flax,
I, trembling, sentenced,

Chorus.

I combed, combed flax,
I, scratching, sentenced,

Chorus.

I already spun, I spun flax,
I’ve already told you, I’ve been saying

Chorus.

I already wove, yes I wove lenok
I've already said weaving,

Chorus.

Fragments of a filmstrip at a spinning and weaving factory.

Getting fabric

Yarn is a thin, long thread obtained from short fibers by twisting them.

The process of obtaining yarn from fiber is called spinning.

The purpose of spinning is to obtain a long yarn of uniform thickness.

For millennia, the spinner's only tool was a hand spindle.

First mechanical devices for spinning belong to the middle of the 15th century. The first self-spinning wheel with a foot drive was invented by the German inventor Jürgens in 1530.

The first spinning machine was designed in 1764 by the American inventor Hargreves, and later it was widely used in industry.

The spinning mill employs people of various professions, but the main one is the spinner.

The finished yarn goes to the weaving factory, where we produce fabric on looms.

The fabric is a weave of 2 threads - warp and weft.

The threads that run along the fabric are called warp threads or main.

The threads that run across the fabric are called weft threads or transverse.

Along the edges of the fabric, an edge is obtained. Edge- This is a non-shrinking cut of fabric.

The fabric removed from the loom is called harsh. It contains various impurities, it is dirty in appearance and goes through the last stage of finishing. It is singeed to make it smoother, then bleached, then dyed. If bleached fabrics are dipped in dye, they become plain dyed. Printed designs can be applied to such fabrics. All this work is performed by special machines.

Drawings are:

1. Vegetable (flowers, leaves, plants).
2. Geometric (rhombuses, squares, ovals).
3. Thematic (pictures of people, animals, houses, etc.).
4. Mixed (eg polka dots and flowers).

Sides of fabric

Fabrics have two sides: front and back.

Front side: smooth, shiny, bright, it has fewer knots and villi.

Wrong side: rough, matte, it has a pale color and pattern, more nodules and villi.

Exist various ways weaving of threads: satin, satin, twill, but the simplest is linen.

Practical work

Making a sample of plain weave fabric.

Tools and accessories are laid out at workplaces.

1. Cut the prepared fabric along the warp threads 1-1.5 cm wide, cut another plain fabric into strips also 1-1.5 cm wide.

2. Pass the cut strips of fabric through one warp thread in a checkerboard pattern. Glue the ends with PVA glue.

3. Each group complete 3 anagram tasks. and explain their meaning.

4. Final part.

Complete 1 puzzle task each.

1. Ladder.
2. Crossword.
3. What does position mean.

What does this diagram mean?

5. Analysis of the mistakes made.

6. Evaluation of student work.

Chapter I
STRUCTURE OF FIBERS AND THREADS
1. STRUCTURE OF FIBERS AND FILAMENTS
Textile fibers (filaments) have a complex physical structure and most of them are high molecular weight.
For textile fibers, a fibrillar structure is typical. Fibrils are combinations of microfibrils of oriented supramolecular compounds. Microfibrils are molecular complexes, their cross section is less than 10 nm. They are held near each other by intermolecular forces, as well as due to the transition of individual molecules from complex to complex. The transition of molecules from one microfibril to another depends on their length. It is believed that the length of microfibrils is an order of magnitude greater than the diameter. Microfibrils and fibrils of some fibers are shown in fig. I.1.
The bonds between fibrils are carried out mainly by the forces of intermolecular interaction, they are much weaker than microfibrillar ones. Between the fibrils there are a large number of longitudinal cavities, pores. Fibrils are located in the fibers along the axis or at a relatively small angle. Only in some fibers the arrangement of fibrils has a random, irregular character, however, even in this case, their general orientation in the direction of the axis is preserved. Fibrils and microfibrils are visible under a microscope at a magnification of 1500 times or more.
The properties of fibers are determined not only by the supramolecular structure, but also by its lower levels. The relationship between the structure of fibers at different levels and their properties has not yet been studied enough. The structure of fiber-forming polymers, fibers and its relationship with properties are considered in the work. Further accumulation of data on the relationship between structure and properties will allow solving the most important problem of the rational use of fibers and changing their structure in order to achieve control over the process of obtaining fibers with the necessary complex properties.
Characteristics of the structure of some basic fiber-forming polymers are given in table. I.1.
The chemical composition of the fibers and some other characteristics of the structure of the fibers are given in the textbook. Therefore, in this textbook, information about the structure of fibers is reduced, only its features (morphological, etc.) are described.
Cotton fibers (Fig. 1.2). Cotton fiber is hollow, has a channel is the place of separation from the seed. The other, pointed, end of the channel does not. The morphology of different fibers, even from the same fiber, is significantly different. For example, the channel of mature and overmature fibers is narrow, and the shape of the cross section varies from bean-shaped in mature fibers to ellipsoidal and almost round in overmature fibers and flattened ribbon-like in immature fibers.
The fiber is twisted around its longitudinal axis. The greatest crimp in mature fibers; in immature and overripe fibers, it is small, inconspicuous. This is due to the shape and mutual arrangement of the elements of the supramolecular structure of the fiber. The fiber stack has a layered structure. The outer layer less than 1 µm thick is called the primary wall. It consists of a network formed by sparsely spaced and highly angled cellulose fibrils, the space between which is filled with cellulose satellites. The content of cellulose in the primary wall is, according to available data, slightly more than half of its mass.
The outer surface of the primary wall consists of a wax-pectin layer.
In the primary wall of fibers, some researchers distinguish two layers in which the fibrils are located at different angles. The secondary main wall of the fiber reaches 6–8 µm in thickness in a mature fiber. It consists of bundles of fibrils arranged along helical lines rising at an angle of 20 - 45° to the fiber axis. The direction of the helical line changes from Z to S.
Tab. I. 1. Characterization of the structure of fiber-forming polymers
Different fibers have different fibril angles. In thin fibers, the angles of inclination of the fibrils are small. Cellulose satellites are the filler between the fibril bundles.
The fibril bundles are arranged in concentric layers (Fig. 1.3), which are clearly visible in the cross section of the fiber. Their number reaches forty, which corresponds to the days of cellulose deposition. The presence of a tertiary part of the secondary wall in contact with the canal is also noted. This part is very tight. In addition, in this layer, the gaps between the cellulose fibrils are filled with protein substances and protoplasm, consisting of protein substances, simple carbohydrates, from which cellulose is synthesized, etc.
The cellulose of cotton fibers has an amorphous-crystalline structure. The degree of its crystallinity is 0.6 - 0.8, and the density of crystallites reaches 1.56 - 1.64 g / cm3 (Table 1.2).
Bast fibers (Fig. 1.4). Technical fibers obtained from bast plants are complexes of elementary fibers glued together with pectin substances. Individual elementary fibers are tubular plant cells. However, unlike cotton fiber, both ends of the bast fiber are closed. Bast fibers have primary, secondary and tertiary walls.
The cross section of a flax fiber is an irregular polygon with a narrow channel. The drip of coarse fibers is close to oval, it is wider and slightly flattened. A feature of the morphology of flax fibers is the presence of shifts of longitudinal strokes across the fiber, which are traces of fractures or bends of the fibers during the growth period, during mechanical processing. The channel has a constant width. The primary wall of flax fibers consists of fibrils located along a helical line of direction S with an inclination of 8 - -12° to the longitudinal axis. Fibrils in the secondary wall are located along the helical line of the Z direction. The angle of their rise in the outer layers is the same as in the primary wall, but gradually decreases, sometimes reaching 0°, while the direction of the spirals changes to the opposite. Pectic substances between the fibrils are located unevenly, their content increases towards the channel.
The elementary fiber of hemp-derived hemp has blunt or forked ends, the fiber channel is flattened and much wider than that of flax. Shifts on hemp fibers are more pronounced than on flax fiber, and the fiber in this
place has a bend. The fibril bundles in the primary and secondary walls are located along the helical line of the Z direction, but the fibril inclination angle decreases from 20–35° in the outer layer to 2–3° in the inner one. The largest amount of pectin is contained in the primary wall and the outer layers of the secondary.
The elementary fibers of jute, kenaf have a rounded end, thick walls, an irregular cross-sectional shape: with separate faces and a channel, which either narrows to a filiform, or sharply expands.
Technical fibers of jute, kenaf are rigidly glued fiber complexes with a high lignin content.
Ramie fibers in plant stems are formed as separate elementary fibers without the formation of technical fiber bundles. Sharp shifts, longitudinal cracks are noticeable on the ramie fibers. Cellulose fibrils in the primary and secondary walls of the ramie are located along an inclined line of direction S. The angle of inclination in the primary wall reaches 12 °, in the secondary wall it changes from 10 - 9 ° in the outer to 0 ° in the inner layers.
Leaf fibers (abaca, sisal and formium) are complex, in which short elementary fibers are rigidly glued into bundles. The structure of elementary fibers is similar to coarse-stemmed bast fibers. The cross-sectional shape is oval, the channel is wide, especially in abaca - manila hemp.
The chemical structure of bast fibers of different types is close to the chemical structure of cotton fiber. They consist of a-cellulose, the content of which ranges from 80.5% for flax to 71.5% for jute and 70.4% for abaca. The fibers have a high content of lignin (more than 5%), there are also fats, waxes, and ash substances. Bast fibers have the highest degree of polymerization of cellulose (for flax, it reaches 30,000 or more).
wool fibers. Woolen are hair fibers of sheep, goats, camels and other animals. The main fiber is sheep wool (its share is almost 98%). Down, transitional hair, awn, coarse awn or dead hair are found in sheep's wool (Fig. 1.5).
Down fibers consist of an outer layer - scaly and inner - cortical (cortex). The down section is round. The transitional hair has a third layer - the core (medulla), interrupted along the length of the fiber. In the awn and dead hair, this layer is located along the entire length of the fiber.
In a dead hair or coarse awn, the core layer occupies most of the cross-sectional area. The loose core layer is filled with lamellar cells located perpendicular to the spindle-shaped cells of the cortical layer. Between the cells there are gaps filled with air (vacuoles), fatty substances, pigment. Cross section of an awn and a dead hair of an irregular oval shape.
Wool fibers have an undulating crimp, characterized by the number of crimps per unit length (1 cm) and the shape of the crimp. Fine wool has 4 - 12 or more curls per 1 cm of length, coarse wool is slightly twisted. According to the shape or nature of the crimp, wool is distinguished by weak, normal crimp and strongly crimped. With a weak crimp, the fibers have a smooth, stretched and flat shape of the coils (Fig. 1.6). With normal crimping of the fibers, the crimps have the shape of a semicircle. The fibers of highly crimped wool have a compressed, high and looped curl shape.
Scales of an awn and a dead hair remind a tile. There are several of them on the circumference of the fiber. The thickness of the scales is about 1 micron, the length is different - from 4 to 25 microns, depending on the type of wool (from 40 to 250 scales per 1 mm of fiber length). It has been established that scales have three layers - epicuticle, exocuticle and endocuticle. The epicuticle is thin (5 - 25 nm), resistant to chlorine, concentrated acids and other reagents. The dog includes chitin, waxes, etc. The exocuticle consists of protein compounds and the endocuticle - the main layer of the scale - from modified protein substances, has a high chemical resistance.
The cortical layer of fibers consists of spindle-shaped cells - supramolecular formations of protein fibrils
keratin, the gaps between which are filled with nucleoprotein, a pigment. Spindle-shaped cells (Fig. 1.7, a) are large supramolecular formations with pointed ends, their length is up to 90 microns, the cross-sectional size is up to 4-6 microns. In the keratin of the cortical layer, paracortex and orthocortex can occur. The paracortex contains more cisgin than the orthocortex, it is harder and more alkali resistant. In the slushy downy fiber, the paracortex is located on the outside, and the orthocortex is located on the inside. However, goat down is monocotyledonous and consists only of the orthocortex, while human hair consists only of the paracortex.
Fibrils (Fig. 1.7.6) consist of microfibrils of keratin, which belongs to proteins. Protein macromolecules are composed of amino acid residues. Wool keratin macromolecules are branched, since the radicals of a number of amino acids represent small side chains. Perhaps the content in the chain of macromolecules of cyclic groups.
Macromolecules in fibers in the normal state are strongly bent and twisted (a-helix), however, the length of macromolecules significantly (hundreds and even thousands of times) exceeds its transverse dimensions, in which they are less than 1 nm.
Due to the presence of amino acid residues containing various radicals, keratin molecules interact with each other due to various forces: intermolecular (van der Waals forces), hydrogen, salt (ionic) and even valence chemical bonds. This is discussed in detail in the textbook.
Wool of other animals (Fig. 1.8 and 1.9). Goat hair consists of fluff and coarse awn. Down and awn are also found in camel hair. In the wool of rabbits there are thin downy fibers, but coarser ones, such as transitional and outer ones.
Deer, horse and cow hair consists mainly of coarse outer fibers.
Silk fibres. The primary silk fiber is the cocoon thread (Fig. I. 10), secreted by the caterpillar of the silkworm moth when curling the cocoon. Cocoon filament is two filaments of fibroin protein glued together with low molecular weight sericip protein. Mulberry is uneven in cross section. Fibrils of fibroin are located along the axis of silk, their length is up to 250 nm, width is up to 100 nm. Microfibrils are composed of fibroin protein, their cross section is about 10 nm. The configuration of the silk fibroin chain is a shallow helix (see Table I. 1).
Asbestos (Fig. 1.11). Asbestos fibers are crystals of natural hydrous magnesium silicates (silicic acid salts). The needle-like finest crystallites of asbestos, united into larger aggregates by the forces of intermolecular interaction, have an elongated shape and have the properties of fibers. Elementary asbestos fibers are combined into complexes (technical fibers).
Chemical fibers (Fig. I. 12). Chemical fibers are very diverse in their chemical composition and structure (see Table I. 1).
Of the natural polymers, viscose, acetate, triacetate fibers and threads are most widely used.
Viscose fibers are a group of fibers and threads that are identical in chemical composition (from hydrated cellulose), but differ significantly in structure and properties. In ordinary viscose fibers, the degree of polymerization of cellulose (up to 200) is much less than in cotton fibers. The difference also lies in the spatial arrangement of the elementary unit of cellulose. In hydrated cellulose, glucose residues are rotated to each other by 90°, and not by 180°, as is the case in cotton cellulose, which has a significant effect on the properties of the fibers. For example, hydrated cellulose fibers absorb various substances more strongly and stain deeper. The structure of viscose fibers is amorphous-crystalline. Ordinary viscose fibers are also characterized by heterogeneity, consisting in varying degrees orientation of fibrils and microfibrils. The microfibrils in the outer layer are oriented in the longitudinal direction, while in the inner layer the degree of orientation is very low.
Upon receipt (formation) of the fibers, their non-simultaneous solidification in thickness occurs. At the beginning, the outer layer hardens, under the influence of atmospheric pressure, the walls are pulled inward, which makes the cross section tortuous. These convolutions (bands) are visible in the longitudinal view of the fibers. Hollow fibers or C-shaped structures can be obtained; the former are formed by blowing air through the solution, the latter by using special dies.
In addition, viscose fibers are matted with titanium dioxide (TiO2), as a result of which the powder particles that appear on the surface of the fibers scatter the rays of light and the shine decreases.
Viscose high-modulus (VVM) and especially polyion fibers are distinguished by a high degree of orientation and uniformity of the structure, and an increased degree of crystallinity. Due to the high orientation, uniformity of the structure, the morphology of the fibers also changes. The cross section of these fibers, in contrast to the cross section of ordinary viscose threads, does not have convolutions, it is oval, close to a circle.
Copper-ammonia fibers have a more uniform structure compared to viscose fibers. The cross section of the fibers is an oval approaching a circle.
Acetate fibers are chemically cellulose acetate. They are divided into diacetate (they are usually called acetate) and triacetate according to the number of substituted hydroxyl groups in cellulose with acetic anhydride. Characteristics of the structure of triacetate fibers are given in table. I. 1. The structure of the fibers is amorphous-crystalline, with a small degree of crystallinity (see Table 1.2).
Synthetic fibers received wide use, and their balance in the total production of textile fibers is increasing. Features of the chemical structure of synthetic fibers and filaments, their production are described in the textbook.
Of the synthetic fibers, polyamide fibers (kapron, perlon, dederon, nylon, etc.) represent a large group. The structure of polycaproamide fibers is amorphous-crystalline, the degree of crystallinity can reach 70%; The shape of the fiber sections can be different, usually the cross section is round, but it can also be of a different shape (Fig. I. 13).
This group also includes fibers from polyenanthoamide - enant, nylon 6.6, which differ from polycaproamide fibers in the chemical structure of the elementary unit - NH - (CH2) 6 - (CH2) 6 - CONH - (CH2) 6 - CO -. The configuration of the molecular chain of fibers of this type, like that of caproamide fibers, is elongated, a zigzag with a slightly longer unit link.
Polyester fibers (terylene, lavsan, etc.) are obtained from polyethylene terephthalate. The fibers have an amorphous-crystalline structure. The circuit configuration is close to straight. A feature of the chemical structure of the fibers is the connection of the elementary links of the chain with an ester group - C -. By morphology, the fibers are close to polyamide.
Polyacrylonitrile fibers include nitron and many other varieties that have their own name in different countries, such as acrylan, orlon (USA), pre-lan (GDR), etc. In appearance, the cross section has an oval shape. The elementary link of macromolecules of nitron fibers has the following chemical composition - CH2 - CH - CN
The structure of polyacrylonitrile fibers is amorphous-crystalline. The fraction of the crystalline phase is small. The configuration of fiber macromolecules is elongated, transzigzag.
Polypropylene and polyethylene fibers are polyolefin fibers. The elementary link of macromolecules of polypropylene fibers has the form - CH - CH2 - CH3
The cross-sectional shape of the fibers is oval, the fibrils are oriented along the axis.
The structure of macromolecules is stereoregular. The degree of polymerization of fibers can vary over a wide range (1900 - 5900). The structure of supramolecular formations is amorphous-crystalline. In this case, the crystalline fraction reaches 85 - 95%.
The morphology of polyethylene fibers does not differ significantly from the morphology of polypropylene fibers. Their supramolecular structure is also fibrillar. Macromolecules with elementary units - CH2 - CH2 - form an amorphous crystalline structure with a predominance of crystalline.
Polyurethane fibers consist of macromolecules, the elementary links of which contain a urethane group - NH - C - O -. The structure of the fibers is amorphous, the glass transition temperature is low. Flexible segments of macromolecules at ordinary temperature are in a highly elastic state. Due to this structure, the fibers have a very high extensibility (up to 500 - 700%) at normal temperatures.
Fibers of halogen-containing polymers are fibers made from polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylidene, fluorolone, etc. Polyvinyl chloride fibers (chlorine, perchlorovinyl) are amorphous fibers with a low degree of crystallinity. The configuration of macromolecules is elongated. The elementary link of macromolecules is CH2 - CHC1. The morphological feature of the fibers is an unevenly tightened surface.
Polyvinylidene chloride fibers have an amorphous-crystalline structure with a high degree of crystallinity. The chemical structure of the fibers also differs: in the elementary link, the content of chlorine (- CH2 - CC12 -) increases, the density of the fibers increases.
In fibers made from fluorine-containing polymers, compared to vinylidene chloride, hydrogen and chlorine are replaced by fluorine. Elementary links of Teflon - CF2 - fibers, fluorolone - CH2 - CHF - fibers. A feature of the structure of these fibers is a significant binding energy of carbon and fluorine atoms, its polarity, which determines the high resistance to aggressive media.
Carbon fibers - heat resistant fibers, configuration. the chains of macromolecules are layered-tape, the degree of polymerization is very high.

2. STRUCTURAL ANALYSIS OF FIBERS AND THREADS

Information about the structure of fibers, about the features of its changes as a result of the impact of technological processes, operating conditions are becoming more and more necessary when improving the quality of textile materials, improving technological processes, and determining the conditions for the rational use of fibers. The rapid development and improvement of experimental physics methods have created a fundamental basis for studying the structure of textile materials.
Further, only some of the most common methods of structural analysis are considered - optical light and electron microscopy, spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction analysis, dielectrometry and thermal analysis.

LIGHT MICROSCOPY
Light microscopy is one of the most common methods for studying the structure of textile fibers, threads and products. The resolution of an optical microscope, which uses light in the visible region of the spectrum, can reach 1 - 0.2 microns.
The resolving power of the lens b0 and the microscope bm is determined by the approximate formulas:
where X is the wavelength of light, microns; A - aperture, numerical characteristic of the resolving power, lens (the ability to depict the smallest details of an object); A - aperture of the illuminating part - the condenser of the microscope.
where n is the refractive index of the medium located between the preparation and the first front lens of the objective (for air 1; for water 1.33; for glycerin M7; for cedar oil 1.51); a is the angle of deviation of the extreme beam entering the lens from a point located on the optical axis.
The resolution and aperture can be increased by immersion, i.e., by replacing the air medium with a liquid with a high refractive index.
Microobjectives are divided according to their spectral characteristics (for the visible, ultraviolet and infrared regions of the light spectrum), the length of the tube, the medium between the objective and the preparation (dry and immersion), the nature of observation and the type of preparations (for preparations with a cover slip and without glass, etc.).
Eyepieces are chosen depending on the objective, since the total magnification of the microscope is equal to the product of the angular magnification of the eyepiece and the objective. To fix the features of the structure and convenience in work, microphotographic attachments and microphotographic installations, drawing devices, binocular tubes are used. In addition to biological microscopes, which are widely used in the study of the morphology of textile fibers and threads, fluorescent, ultraviolet and infrared, stereomicroscopes, comparison microscopes, and measuring microscopes are used.
The luminescent microscope is equipped with a set of interchangeable light filters, with the help of which it is possible to select a part of the spectrum in the illuminator radiation that excites the luminescence of the objective under study. When working on this microscope, it is necessary to select filters that transmit only luminescence light from the object.
Ultraviolet, infrared microscopes allow you to conduct research in the invisible regions of the spectrum. The lenses of such microscopes are made of materials that are transparent to ultraviolet (quartz, fluorite) or infrared (silicon, germanium, fluorite, lithium fluoride) rays. Converters turn an invisible image into a visible one.
Stereo microscopes provide volumetric perception of a micro-object, and comparison microscopes allow you to compare two objects at the same time.
The methods of polarization and interference microscopy are becoming more and more widespread. In polarizing microscopy, the microscope is supplemented with a special polarizing device, which includes two polaroids: the lower one is stationary and the upper one is an analyzer that rotates freely in the frame. Light polarization makes it possible to study such properties of anisotropic fiber structures as birefringence, dichroism, etc. Light from the illuminator passes through a polaroid and is polarized in one plane. However, when passing through the preparation (fibers), the polarization changes and the resulting changes are studied using an analyzer and various compensators of optical systems.

Kiryukhin Sergey Mikhailovich - Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor, Honored Worker of Science of the Russian Federation. After graduating from the Moscow Textile Institute (MTI) in 1962, he successfully worked in the field of materials science, standardization, certification, qualimetry and quality management of textile materials in a number of industry sectors. scientific research Telsky institutes. Constantly combined research work with teaching activities in higher educational institutions.

	to the present
S. M. Kiryukhin works in the Moscow	state

stylish university. A. N. Kosygina as a professor of the Department of Textile Materials Science, has more than 150 scientific methodical works on the quality of textile materials, including textbooks and monographs.

Shustov Yuri Stepanovich - Doctor of Technical Sciences, Professor, Head of the Department of Textile Materials Science of the Moscow State Textile University named after A. N. Kosygin. Author of 4 books on textile topics and more than 150 scientific and methodological publications.

The area of ​​scientific and pedagogical activity is the assessment of quality and modern methods predicting physical mechanical properties textile materials for various purposes.

TEXTBOOKS AND TEACHING AIDS FOR STUDENTS OF HIGHER EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS

S. M. KIRYUKHIN, Y. S. SHUSTOV

TEXTILE

MATERIALS SCIENCE

Recommended by the UMO for education in the field of technology and design of textile products as a textbook for students of higher educational institutions studying in the directions 260700 "Technology and design of textile products", 240200 "Chemical technology of polymer fibers and textile materials", 071500

_> "Artistic design of textile and light industry products" and specialty 080502 "Economic

Mica and management at the enterprise»

MOSCOW KoposS 2011

4r b

K 43

Editor I. S. Tarasova

Peer reviewers: Dr. tech. sciences, prof.A. P. Zhikharev (MGUDT), Dr. tech. sciences, prof.K. E. Razumeev (TsNIIShersti)

Kiryukhin S. M., Shustov Yu.S.

K 43 Textile materials science. - M.: KolosS, 2011. - 360 e.: ill. - (Textbooks and textbooks for students of higher educational institutions).

ISBN 978-5-9532-0619-8

General information about the properties of fibers, threads, fabrics, knitted and non-woven materials is given. The features of their structure, methods of obtaining, methods for determining quality indicators are considered. The control and management of the quality of textile materials are covered.

For students of higher educational institutions in the specialties "Technology of textile products" and "Standardization and certification".

Educational edition

Kiryukhin Sergey Mikhailovich, Shustov Yury Stepanovich

TEXTILE MATERIALS SCIENCE

Textbook for universities

Art editor V. A. Churakova Computer layoutpp. I. Sharovoi Computer graphicsT. Y. Kutuzova

Proofreader T. D. Zvyagintseva

UDC 677-037(075.8) BBK 37.23-3ya73

FOREWORD

This textbook is intended for students of higher educational institutions studying the discipline "Textile materials science" and related courses. These are, first of all, future process engineers whose work is related to the production and processing of textile materials. An engineer can successfully manage technological processes and improve them only if he knows well the structural features and properties of the materials being processed and the specific requirements for the quality of the products.

The textbook contains the necessary information about the structure, properties and quality assessment of the main types of textile fibers, threads and products, basic information about standard test methods for textile materials, about the organization and conduct of technical control at the enterprise.

Indicators and characteristics of properties by which the quality of textile materials is assessed are standardized current standards. Knowledge, correct application and strict adherence to the standards applicable to textile materials ensures the production of products of a given quality. At the same time, a special place is occupied by standards for testing methods for the properties of textile materials, with the help of which they evaluate and control product quality indicators.

Product quality control is not limited to the correct application of standard test methods. Of great importance is the rational organization and effective functioning of the entire system of control operations in production, which is carried out at the enterprise by the technical control department.

Technical control ensures the release of products of a given quality, carrying out input control of raw materials and auxiliary materials, cont-

raw materials and auxiliary materials, control and regulation of the properties of semi-finished products and components, process parameters, quality indicators of manufactured products. However, for a planned and systematic quality improvement, it is necessary to constantly carry out a set of various measures aimed at influencing the conditions and factors that determine product quality at all stages of its formation. This leads to the need to develop and implement quality management systems at enterprises.

Methods for obtaining and processing features of textile materials are briefly described and only as necessary. A deeper study of these issues should be carried out in special courses on the technology of obtaining and processing certain types fibres, threads and textiles.

"Textile materials science" can be used as a base for material science students who complete their studies at the relevant departments in various specialties and specializations. For an in-depth study of the structure, properties, evaluation and quality control of textile materials, special courses are recommended for material science students.

Economics students, designers, confectioners, etc., who study at textile universities, can also use this manual.

This textbook has been prepared on the basis of the experience of the Department of Textile Materials Science of the Moscow State Technical University. A. N. Kosygin. It uses materials from previously published well-known and widely used similar educational publications, primarily "Textile Materials Science" in three parts by professors G. N. Kukin,

BUT. N. Solovyov and A. I. Koblyakov.

IN training manual five chapters, at the end of which are given test questions and tasks. The list of references includes the main and additional sources. The main literary sources are listed in order of their importance for the study of the course.

CHAPTER 1 GENERAL PROVISIONS

1.1. SUBJECT OF TEXTILE MATERIALS SCIENCE

Textile materials science is the science of the structure, properties and quality assessment of textile materials. Such a definition was given in 1985. Taking into account the changes that have occurred since that time, as well as the development of the training of materials scientists, the following definition can be more complete and profound: textile materials science is the science of the structure, properties, evaluation, quality control and management of textile materials.

The fundamental principles of this science is the study of textile materials used by man in various types of his activities.

Both materials consisting of textile fibers and the textile fibers themselves are called textile.

Study of various materials and their constituent substances has always been the subject natural sciences and was associated with the technical means of obtaining and processing these materials and substances. Therefore, textile materials science belongs to the group of technical sciences of an applied nature.

Most textile fibers consist of high molecular weight substances, and therefore textile materials science is closely related to the use of theoretical foundations and practical methods of such fundamental disciplines as physics and chemistry, as well as the physicochemistry of polymers.

Since textile materials science is a technical science, its study also requires general engineering knowledge obtained in the study of such disciplines as mechanics, strength of materials, electrical engineering, electronics, automation, etc. A special place is occupied by the physicochemical mechanics (rheology) of fiber-forming polymers.

In textile materials science, as in other scientific disciplines, higher mathematics, mathematical

cal statistics and probability theory, as well as modern computational methods and tools.

Knowledge of the structure and properties of textile materials is necessary when choosing and improving the technological processes for their production and processing, and ultimately when obtaining a finished textile product of a given quality, evaluated by special methods. Thus, for textile materials science, methods for measuring and evaluating quality are necessary, which are the subject of a relatively new independent discipline - qualimetry.

The processing of textile materials is impossible without quality control of semi-finished products at individual stages of the technological process. Textile materials science is also involved in the development of quality control methods.

AND Finally, the last of a wide range of issues related

from textile materials science, is a matter of product quality management. Such a connection is very natural, because without knowledge of the structure and properties of textile materials, methods for assessing and controlling quality, it is impossible to control the technological process and the quality of manufactured products.

Textile materials science should be distinguished from textile commodity science, although there is much in common between them. Commodity science is a discipline, the main provisions of which are intended to study the consumer properties of finished products used as a commodity. Commodity science also pays attention to such issues as the methods of packaging goods, their transportation, storage, etc., which are usually not included in the tasks of materials science.

Of other related disciplines, one should also mention the materials science of clothing production, which has much in common with textile materials science. The difference lies in the fact that less attention is paid to the structure and properties of fibers and threads in the clothing industry than to textile fabrics, but information is added about non-textile finishing materials (natural and artificial leather, fur, oilcloths, etc.).

Let's pay attention to the importance of textile materials in human life.

It is believed that human life is impossible without food, shelter and clothing. The latter mainly consists of textile materials. Curtains, curtains, bed linen, bedspreads, towels, tablecloths and napkins, carpets and floor coverings, knitwear and non-woven materials, laces, twine and much, much more - all these are textile materials, without which the life of a modern person is impossible and which in many ways make this life comfortable and attractive.

Textile materials are used not only in everyday life. Statistics show that in industrialized countries with a temperate climate, out of the total amount of textile materials consumed, 35 ... 40% are spent on clothes and underwear, 20 ... , for other needs (packaging, cultural needs, medicine, etc.) up to 10%. Of course, in individual countries these ratios can vary significantly depending on social conditions, climate, development of technology, etc. But we can safely say that there is practically no material, and in some cases spiritual spheres of human activity, wherever textile materials are not used. materials. This causes a very significant volume of their production and rather high requirements for their quality.

Of the diverse issues addressed in the framework of textile materials science, the following can be distinguished:

study of the structure and properties of textile materials, which makes it possible to purposefully carry out work to improve their quality;

development of methods and technical means measurement, evaluation and control of quality indicators of textile materials;

development of theoretical foundations and practical methods for assessing the quality, standardization, certification and quality management of textile materials.

Like any other scientific discipline, textile materials science has its own genesis, i.e. the history of formation and development.

Interest in the structure and properties of textile materials probably appeared at a time when they began to be used for various purposes. The history of this issue goes back to ancient times. For example, sheep breeding, which was used, in particular, to obtain wool fibers, was known at least 6 thousand years BC. e. Flax growing was widespread in ancient Egypt about 5 thousand years ago. Cotton items found during excavations in India date back to approximately the same time. In our country, in the sites of excavations of the sites of an ancient man near Ryazan, archaeologists have discovered the most ancient textile products, which are a cross between fabric and knitwear. Today, such fabrics are called knitwear.

The first documented information that has come down to our time about the study of individual properties of textile materials dates back to 250 BC. e., when the Greek mechanic Philo of Byzantium investigated the strength and elasticity of the ropes.

However, until the Renaissance, only the very first steps in the study of textile materials were taken. At the beginning of the XVI century. the great Italian Leonardo da Vinci investigated the friction of the ropes and the moisture content of the fibers. In a simplified form, he formulated the well-known law of proportionality between a normally applied load and the friction force. By the second half of the XVII century. include the work of the famous English scientist R. Hooke, who studied the mechanical properties of various materials, including threads made from flax fibers and

silks. He described the structure of a thin silk fabric and was one of the first to suggest the possibility of manufacturing chemical threads.

The need for systematic studies of the structure and properties of textile materials began to be felt more and more with the emergence and development of manufactory production. While the simple prevailed commodity production and the producers were small artisans, they dealt with a small amount of raw materials. Each of them was limited mainly to the organoleptic evaluation of the properties and quality of materials. The concentration of large quantities of textile materials in manufactories required a different attitude towards their evaluation and necessitated their study. This was also facilitated by the expansion of trade in textile materials, including between different countries. Therefore, from the end of the XVII - beginning of the XVIII century. in a number of European countries, official requirements are established for the quality indicators of fibers, threads and fabrics. These requirements are approved by government agencies in the form of various regulations and even laws. For example, the Italian (Piedmontese) regulations of 1681 on the work of silk factories established requirements for raw silk - cocoons. According to these requirements, cocoons, depending on the content of silk in their shell and the ability to unwind, were divided into several varieties.

IN In Russia, laws on the quality and methods of sorting raw fibers supplied for export and for the supply of manufactories that produce yarn and canvas for the fleet, as well as cloth for supplying the army, appeared in the 18th century. Law No. 635 dated April 26, 1713 “On the rejection of hemp and flax near the city of Arkhangelsk” was the first known by the time of publication. This was followed by laws on the width, length and weight (i.e., mass) of linen cloths (1715), on the control of the thickness, twist and moisture content of hemp yarn (1722), shrinkage of cloths after soaking (1731), their length and width (1741), the quality of their coloration and their durability (1744), etc.

IN These documents began to mention the first simple instrumental methods for measuring individual quality indicators of textile materials. Thus, a law issued in Russia under Peter I in 1722 required to control the thickness of hemp yarn for ropes by dragging its samples through holes of various sizes made in iron boards in order to establish “whether it is as thick as it should be.”

IN 18th century the first objective instrumental methods for measuring and evaluating the properties and quality indicators of textile materials are emerging and developing. Thus, the foundation of the future science - textile materials science is being laid.

IN first half of the 18th century the French physicist R. Reaumur designed one of the first explosive machines and investigated the strength of hemp and silk

twisted threads. In 1750, one of the world's first laboratories for testing the properties of textile materials appeared in Turin (Northern Italy), called "conditioning" and controlled the moisture content of raw silk. It was the first prototype of the current certification laboratories. Later, "conditions" began to appear in other European countries, for example, in France, where they studied wool, various types of yarn, etc. At the end of the 18th century. there appeared devices for assessing the thickness of threads by unwinding hanks of constant length on special reels and weighing them on a lever balance - quadrants. Similar reels and quadrants were produced in St. Petersburg by the mechanical workshops of the Alexandrovskaya Manufactory, the largest Russian textile mill founded in 1799.

In the field of studying the properties of textile raw materials and the search for new types of fibers, the work of the first corresponding member of the Russian Academy of Sciences P. I. Rychkov (1712-1777), a prominent historian, geographer and economist, should be noted. He was one of the first Russian scientists working in the field of textiles.

material science. In a number of his articles published in the Proceedings of the Free Economic Society for the Encouragement of Agriculture and House-Building in Russia, he raised questions about the use of goat and camel wool, about some plant fibers, cotton cultivation, etc.

In the 19th century Textile materials science has been actively developing in almost all European countries, including Russia.

Let us note only some of the main dates in the development of domestic textile materials science.

In the first half of the XIX century. in Russia, educational institutions arose that produced specialists who were already informed in the training courses about the properties of textile materials. Among such secondary educational institutions can be attributed the Practical Academy of Commercial Sciences, opened in Moscow in 1806, which produced commodity experts, and among the higher ones - the Technological Institute

in Petersburg, founded in 1828 and opened for classes in 1831.

IN middle of the 19th century at Moscow University and the Moscow Academy of Practice, the activities of the outstanding Russian merchandiser prof.

M. J. Kittara, who paid great attention to the study of textile materials in his works. He organized the Department of Technology, technical laboratory, gave lectures, where it was given general classification goods, including textiles, led the development of test methods and rules for the acceptance of textiles for the Russian army.

IN late 19th century in Russia, at educational institutions, and then at large textile factories, laboratories for testing textile materials began to be created. One of the first was a laboratory at the Moscow Higher Technical School (MVTU), the beginning of which was laid in 1882 by prof. F. M. Dmitriev. His successor, one of the largest Russian textile scientists prof. S.A. Fedorov 1895-1903 organized a large laboratory of mechanical technology of textile materials and a testing station attached to it. In his work “On the Testing of Yarn” in 1897, he wrote: “In practice, in the study of yarn, until now, usually guided by the usual impressions of touch, sight, hearing. Such definitions required, of course, great skill. Anyone who is familiar with the practice of paper spinning and who has worked with measuring instruments knows that these instruments in many cases confirm our conclusions drawn by sight and touch, but sometimes they say quite the opposite of what we think. Instruments, therefore, exclude chance and subjectivity, and through them we obtain data on which a completely impartial judgment can be built. In the work "On testing yarn" all the main methods used at that time for the study of threads were summarized.

The MVTU laboratory played an important role in the development of Russian textile materials science. In 1911-1912. in this laboratory, the “Commission for the processing of descriptions, conditions for acceptance and all conditions for the supply of fabrics to the commissariat”, headed by prof. S. A. Fedorov. At the same time, numerous tests of fabrics were carried out and the methods of these tests were refined. These studies were published in Prof. N. M. Chilikin “On testing fabrics”, published in 1912. Since 1915, this scientist began reading a special course “Materials Science of Fibrous Substances” at Moscow Higher Technical School, which was the first university course in Russia on textile materials science. In 1910-1914. A number of works were carried out at Moscow Higher Technical School by the outstanding Russian textile scientist prof. N. A. Vasiliev. Among these were studies evaluating methods for testing yarns and fabrics. Deeply understanding the importance of testing the properties of materials for the practical work of the factory, this remarkable scientist wrote: “The testing station should also be one of the departments of the factory, not an additional closet with two or three apparatuses, but a department equipped with everything necessary for the successful control of production, with the expedient

figurative devices, automatically testing samples and keeping records, and finally, it must have a manager who can not only maintain all devices in a state of constant proper performance, but also systematize the results obtained in accordance with the goals pursued. Of course, production will only benefit from such a formulation of the testing case. These wonderful words should always be remembered by process engineers of textile production.

IN In 1889, the first scientific society of textile workers was organized in Russia, called the Society for Promoting the Improvement and Development of the Manufactory Industry. In Izvestia of the society, published under the editorship of N. N. Kukin, a number of works were published on the study of the properties of textile materials, in particular, the work of engineer A. G. Razuvaev. During the period 1882-1904 this researcher conducted numerous tests on various fabrics. The results of these tests were summarized in his work "Research on the Resistance of Fibrous Substances". A. G. Razuvaev and the Austrian engineer A. Rosenzweig were the first textile workers who at the same time (1904) were the first to apply the methods of mathematical statistics to the processing of test results for textile materials.

IN 1914 an outstanding teacher and a major specialist in the field of testing textile materials prof. A. G. Arkhangelsky published the book "Fibers, Yarns and Fabrics", which became the first systematic manual in Russian, which described the properties of these materials. Of great importance for the development of Russian materials science were the works and courses read in the late 19th - early 20th centuries. in different professors Ya. Ya. Nikitinsky and P. P. Petrov and others in the commodity-economic higher and secondary educational institutions of Moscow.

IN 1919 in Moscow at the base At the spinning and weaving school, a textile technical school was organized, which on December 8, 1920 was equated with a higher educational institution and transformed into the Moscow Practical Textile Institute. The history of this higher educational institution began in 1896, when at the trade and industry congress during the All-Russian Exhibition in Nizhny Novgorod It was decided to organize a school in Moscow at the Society to promote the improvement and development of the manufacturing industry. In accordance with this decision, a spinning and weaving school was opened in Moscow, which existed from 1901 to 1919.

The course "Textile materials science" has been taught since the first years of the Moscow Textile Institute (MTI) formation. One of the first teachers of textile materials science was prof. N. M. Chilikin. In 1923, at the institute, Assoc. N. I. Slobozhaninov created a laboratory for testing textile materials, and in 1944 - the department of textile materials science. The organizer of the department and its first head was an outstanding textile scientist-materials scientist Hon. scientist prof. G. N. Kukin (1907-1991)

In 1927, the first in our country Scientific Research Textile Institute (NITI) was established in Moscow, in which, under the leadership of N. S. Fedorov, a large testing laboratory “Bureau for Testing Textile Materials” launched its work. NITI research has improved testing methods for various textile materials. Yes, prof. V. E. Zotikov, prof. N. S. Fedorov, engineer. V. N. Zhukov, prof. A. N. Solovyov created a domestic method for testing cotton fiber. The structure of cotton, the properties of silk and chemical threads, the mechanical properties of threads, the unevenness of yarn in thickness were studied, and mathematical methods for processing test results were widely used.

In the late 20s - early 30s, work on textile materials

in our country received a practical way out, which is the standardization of textile materials. IN 1923-1926 at MIT under Prof.

N. J. Canary conducted research related to the standardization of wool. Prof. VV Linde and his collaborators were engaged in the standardization of raw silk. The first standards for the main types of threads, fabrics and other textile products were developed and approved. Since then, standardization work has become an integral part of materials science research on textiles.

IN 1930 Ivanovo Textile Institute was opened in Ivanovo, separated from Ivanovo-Voznesensky Polytechnic Institute, organized

in 1918 and who had a spinning- weaving faculty. In the same year in Leningrad on the basis of the Mechanics and Technology Institute. Leningrad Institute of Textile and Light Industry (LITLP) was created to meet the needs of the domestic textile industry in qualified engineering personnel. Both of these institutions of higher education had departments of textile materials science.

IN 1934 NITI was divided into separate branch institutes: cotton industry (TsNIIKhBI), bast fiber industry (TsNIILV), woolen industry (TsNIIShersti), silk (VNIIPKhV), knitwear industry (VNIITP), etc. All these institutes had testing laboratories , departments or laboratories of textile materials science, which carried out fundamental and applied research structure and properties of textile materials, as well as work on their standardization.

A feature of works on textile materials science is that they are independent and at the same time are mandatory in the research work of process engineers of textile and clothing production. This is due to the receipt of new textile materials, the improvement of the technology of their processing, the introduction of new types of processing and finishing, etc. In all these cases, a thorough study of the properties of textile materials is necessary, a study of the influence of various factors on changes in the properties and quality indicators of raw materials, semi-finished products and finished textiles.

In the first half of the XX century. a powerful base of domestic textile materials science was created, successfully solving various problems that were at that time before the textile and light industry of our country.

In the second half of the XX century. the development of domestic textile materials science has received new qualitative features and directions. formed scientific schools leading textile scientists-materials scientists. In Moscow (MTI) these are professors G.N. Kukin and A.N. Solovyov, in Leningrad (LITLP) - M.I. Sukharev, in Ivanovo (IvTI) - prof. A. K. Kiselev. Since the 1950s, international scientific and practical conferences on textile materials science have been systematically held once every four years, initiated by the head of the Department of Textile Materials Science at MIT, prof. G. N. Kukin. In 1959, this department carried out the first graduation of process engineers with a specialization in “textile materials science”. Later, taking into account the requirements of the industry and the economic situation in the country, MIT began to train process engineers in the specializations "metrology, standardization and product quality management" at the Department of Textile Materials Science at MIT. Materials engineers became graduates of a wide profile in the quality of textile materials. Similar work was carried out at the departments of materials science LITLP in Leningrad and IvTI

in Ivanovo. These trends are reflected in the work of departments and laboratories of materials science of branch research institutes of the textile and light industry. Since the 1970s, the volume of materials science work on standardization and quality control of textile materials has increased significantly, methods of reliability theory and qualimetry have become widely used.

End of XX century made significant changes in the development of domestic textile materials science. The transition of the country to new forms of economic development, a sharp decline in production in the textile and light industry, a significant decrease in state funding for science and education led to a significant slowdown in the development of materials science work in the sectoral research institutes of the textile and light industry and in the departments of materials science of the corresponding higher educational institutions, but there appeared new content of works on textile materials science.

Textile materials science of the late XX - early XXI century. are automatic and semi-automatic test instruments with program management PC-based, including Spinlab-type test complexes for assessing the quality of cotton fiber; these are fundamental and applied comprehensive studies of traditional and new textile materials, including ultra-thin fibers of organic and inorganic origin, heavy-duty threads for technical and special purposes, textile-reinforced composite materials, the so-called "smart and thinking" (smart) fabrics that can change their properties depending on the temperature of the human body or the environment, and much, much more.

Futurologists consider the XXI century. century of textiles as one of the essential components of a comfortable human life. Therefore, we can assume the appearance in the XXI century. a wide variety of fundamentally new textile materials, the successful processing and efficient use of which will require deep materials science research.

The development of textile materials science, of course, is based on the latest achievements of the fundamental sciences mentioned above. At the same time, some publications note that research on textile materials has identified some areas modern science. For example, it is believed that the study of amino acids in the keratin of wool fibers served as the basis for the development of DNA research and genetic engineering. The work of the English materials scientist C. Pierce on the study of the influence of the clamping length on the strength characteristics of cotton yarn (1926) formed a modern statistical theory of the strength of various materials, called the “weakest link theory”. The control and elimination of breakage of textile threads in the technological processes of textile production was the practical basis for the development of mathematical methods of statistical control and the theory of queuing, etc.

The development of textile materials science is described in detail and in detail by G. N. Kukin, A. N. Solovyov and A. I. Koblyakov in their textbooks, which analyze the development of textile materials science not only in Russia and in former republics THE USSR,

but also in Europe, the USA and Japan.

Works on materials science will find more and more practical application in standardization, control, technical expertise, certification of textile materials and their quality management.

1.2. PROPERTIES AND QUALITY INDICATORS OF TEXTILE MATERIALS

textile materials- these are primarily textile fibers and threads, textile products made from them, as well as various intermediate fibrous materials obtained in the processes of textile production - semi-finished products and waste.

Textile fiber - extended body, flexible and strong, with small transverse dimensions, limited length, suitable for the manufacture of textile threads and products.

Fibers can be natural, chemical, organic and inorganic, elementary and complex.

natural fibers formed in nature without the direct participation of man. Sometimes they are called natural fibers. They are of vegetable, animal and mineral origin.

Natural fibers of plant origin are obtained from the seeds, stems, leaves and fruits of plants. This is, for example, cotton, the fibers of which are formed on the seeds of the cotton plant. Fibers of flax, hemp (hemp), jute, kenaf, ramie lie in the stems of plants. Sisal fiber is obtained from the leaves of the tropical agave plant, and the so-called manila hemp - manila is obtained from the abaca. From the fruit of the coconut, the natives obtain the coir fiber used in handicraft textiles.

Natural fibers of plant origin are also called cellulose fibers, since they all consist mainly of a natural organic high molecular weight substance - cellulose.

Natural fibers of animal origin form the hairline of various animals (wool of sheep, goats, camels, llamas, etc.) or are secreted by insects from special glands. For example, natural silk is obtained from mulberry or oak silkworms at the caterpillar-pupa stage of development, when they curl threads around their body that form dense shells - cocoons.

Animal fibers consist of natural organic high-molecular compounds - fibrillar proteins, therefore they are also called protein or "animal" fibers.

Natural inorganic fiber from minerals is asbestos, obtained from minerals of the group of serpentines (chrysotilasbest) or amphiboles (amphibole-asbestos), which, during processing, are able to split into thin flexible and durable fibers 1 ... 18 mm long or more.

Currently, about 27 million tons of natural fibers are produced in the world. The growth in the production of these fibers is objectively limited by the real resources of the natural environment, which are estimated at 30...35 million tons annually. Therefore, the ever-increasing demand for textile materials, which today is 10 ... 12 kg per person per year, will be met mainly by chemical fibers.

Chemical fibers are made with the direct participation of a person from natural or pre-synthesized substances by carrying out chemical, physico-chemical and other processes. In English-speaking countries, these fibers are called man made, that is, "made by man." The main substance for the manufacture of chemical fibers are fiber-forming polymers, so they are sometimes called polymers.

There are artificial and synthetic chemical fibers. Artificial fibers are made from substances that are found in nature, and synthetic fibers are made from materials that are not found in nature and which are pre-synthesized in one way or another. For example, artificial viscose fiber is obtained from natural cellulose, and synthetic nylon fiber is obtained from caprolactam polymer;", obtained by synthesis from petroleum distillation products.

Chemical fibers are grouped and sometimes named after the type of macromolecular substance or compound from which they are obtained. In table. 1.1 shows the most common of them, it also gives some names of chemical fibers accepted in various countries and their symbols.

Chemical fibers for processing, including those mixed with natural fibers, are cut or torn into pieces of a certain length. Such segments are called staple and are denoted by the symbol F, and depending on the purpose they are divided into types: cotton (S), woolen (wt), linen (I), jute (jt), carpet (tt) and fur (pt). For example, flax-type polyester staple fiber has the designation PE-F-lt.

Macromolecular substances and compounds

Polyester

Polypropylene

Polyamide

		T a b l e 1.1
	Name of fibers	Conditional
		designation
	Lavsan (Russia), Elana (Poland),
	dacron (USA), terylene (UK)
	nia, Germany), tetlon (Japan)
	Mercalon (Italy), propene (USA),
	proplan (France), ulstron (Great Britain)
	UK), linen (Germany)
	Capron (Russia), caprolan (USA),
	stilon (Poland), dederon, perlon
	(Germany), amilan (Japan), nylon
	(USA, UK, Japan, etc.)

Polyacrylonitrile

Polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylidene chloride

Nitron (Russia), dralon, betrayed
(Germany), anilan (Poland), acrylic
long (USA), cashmere (Japan)
Chlorine (Russia), Saran (USA, Be-
UK, Japan, Germany)
Viscose (Russia), villana, danulon
(Germany), viscon (Poland), visco-
lon (USA), diafil (Japan)
Acetate (Russia), forteignez (USA,
UK), rialin (Germany),
minalon (Japan)

Chemical fibers are mostly organic, but can also be inorganic, such as glass, metal, ceramic, basalt, etc. As a rule, these are fibers for technical and special purposes.

There are elementary and complex textile fibers. Elementary fiber- this is a primary single fiber that does not divide along the axis into small segments without destroying the fiber itself. Complex fiber- a fiber consisting of elementary fibers glued together or connected by intermolecular

nye forces.

Examples of complex fibers are bast vegetable fibers (flax, hemp, etc.) and asbestos mineral fiber. Sometimes complex fibers are called technical, since their separation into elementary ones occurs during the technological processes of their processing.

The world production of chemical fibers is rapidly developing. Having arisen at the beginning of the 20th century, only in the period 1950-2000. it increased from 1.7 million tons to 28 million tons, i.e. more than 16 times.

Fibers are the raw material for the manufacture of textile threads and products.

A detailed classification of textile yarns and products, the features of their structure, the main stages of production and properties are given in Ch. 3 and 4.

Consider the properties and quality indicators of textile materials.

Properties of textile materials - this is an objective feature of textile materials, which manifests itself during their production, processing and operation.

The properties of the main types of textile materials are divided into the following groups.

Building and structure properties - the structure and structure of the substances that form textile fibers (the degree of polymerization, crystallinity, features of the supramolecular structure, etc.), as well as the structure and structure of the fibers themselves (the order of the microfibrils, the presence or absence of a shell, a channel in the fibers, etc. ). For threads, this is the relative position of the constituent fibers and filaments, determined by the twist of the yarn and threads. The structure and structure of fabrics are characterized by the interlacing of its constituent threads, their mutual arrangement and number in the element of the fabric structure (phases of the structure of fabrics, warp and weft density, etc.).

Geometric Properties determine the dimensions of fibers and threads (length, linear density, cross-sectional shape, etc.), as well as the dimensions of fabrics and piece goods (width, length, thickness, etc.).

Mechanical properties textile materials characterize their relation to the action of forces and deformations applied to them in different ways (tension, compression, torsion, bending, etc.).

Depending on the method of carrying out the test cycle "load - unload - rest", the characteristics of the mechanical properties of textile fibers, threads and products are divided into semi-cycle, single-cycle and multi-cycle. Half-cycle characteristics are obtained during the implementation of part of the test cycle - loading without unloading or with unloading, but without subsequent rest. These characteristics determine the ratio of materials to a single loading or deformation (for example, the breaking load is determined by stretching the material to failure). Single-cycle characteristics are obtained in the process of implementing the full cycle "load - unload - rest". They determine the features of direct and reverse deformation of materials, their ability to retain their original shape, etc. Multi-cycle characteristics are obtained as a result of repeated repetition of the test cycle. They can be used to judge the resistance of the material to repeated force impacts or deformations (resistance to repeated stretching, bending, abrasion resistance, etc.).

Physical Properties is the mass, hygroscopicity, permeability of textile materials. Physical properties are also thermal, optical, electrical, acoustic, radiation and other properties of textile fibers, threads and products.

Chemical properties determine the ratio of textile materials to the action of various chemical substances. This, for example, is the solubility of fibers in acids, alkalis, etc. or resistance to their action.

Material properties can be simple or complex. Complex properties are characterized by several simple properties. Examples of complex properties of textile materials are shrinkage of fibers, threads and fabrics, wear resistance of textiles, color fastness, etc.

In a special group, properties that determine the appearance of textile materials should be distinguished, for example, the color of the fabric, the purity and absence of foreign inclusions in textile fibers, the absence of defects in the appearance of threads and fabrics, etc.

One of the important characteristics of the properties of textile materials is their homogeneity or uniformity.

In the commodity science of textile products, properties are divided into functional, consumer, ergonomic, aesthetic, socio-economic, etc. Such a division is based mainly on the requirements for textile products by the consumer.

The properties of textile materials should be distinguished from the requirements for them, expressed through quality indicators.

Quality indicators - this is a quantitative characteristic of one or more properties of a textile material, considered in relation to certain conditions for its production, processing and operation.

There is a general classification of groups of quality indicators. Destination KPI Group characterizes the properties that determine the correctness and rationality of the use of the material and determine the scope of its application. This group includes: classification indicators, for example, shrinkage of fabrics after washing, depending on which fabrics are divided into non-shrink, low-shrink and shrinkage; indicators of functional and technical efficiency, for example, operational indicators of the quality of fabrics; design indicators, such as the linear density of the threads, the width of the fabric, etc.; indicators of composition and structure, for example, fibrous composition, twist

thread count, warp and weft density, etc.

Reliability indicators characterize the reliability, durability and persistence over time of the properties of the material within the specified limits, ensuring its effective use for its intended purpose. This group includes such indicators of the quality of textile materials as resistance to abrasion, repeated deformations, color fastness, etc.

Ergonomic indicators take into account a complex of hygienic, anthropometric, physiological and psychological properties that manifest themselves in the system man - product - environment. For example, breathability, vapor permeability and hygroscopicity of fabrics.

05.19.01 "Materials science of textile and light industry" in technical sciences

MINIMUM PROGRAM

candidate exam in the specialty

05.19.01 "Materials Science of Textile and Light Industry"

in technical sciences

Introduction

This program is based on the following disciplines: materials science for light industry; textile materials science.

The program was developed by the expert council of the Higher Attestation Commission of the Ministry of Education of the Russian Federation in chemistry (in chemical technology) with the participation of the Moscow State Textile University named after A.N. Kosygin and Moscow State University of Design and Technology.

1. Materials science of light industry production

Materials science is the science of the structure and properties of materials. The relationship of materials science with physics, chemistry, mathematics, with the technology of leather, fur, footwear and clothing. The importance of materials science in improving the quality and competitiveness of these products. The main directions of development of materials science in light industry.

polymer substances. Fiber-forming, film-forming and adhesive polymeric substances: cellulose, proteins (keratin, fibroin, collagen), polyamides, polyethylene terephthalates, polyolefins, polyacrylonitriles, polyimides, polyurethanes, polyvinyl alcohol, etc., their structural features and basic properties. Amorphous and crystalline state of polymers. Molecular and supramolecular structures of synthetic polymers, hierarchical structures in natural polymers. Oriented state of polymers.

The structure of materials. textile materials. Textile fibers, their classification. Structure, composition and properties of the main types of fibers; vegetable origin, animal origin, artificial (from natural polymers), synthetic (from synthetic polymers), from inorganic compounds. Modified textile fibers, features of their structure and properties. Textile threads, main types and varieties, features of their structure and properties. Fabrics, knitted and non-woven fabrics; methods of their preparation and structure. Characteristics of the structure of textile materials and methods for their determination. The main types of textile materials for clothing, footwear and their characteristics.

Leather and fur materials. Methods for obtaining leather and fur. Theories of tanning. The composition and structure of leather and fur, the main structural characteristics and methods for their determination. Types of leathers and furs for clothing, footwear and their characteristics. Artificial and synthetic leathers and furs, methods of their production and structure. The main types of artificial and synthetic leather and furs, their characteristics. biopolymer materials. Materials obtained with the participation of enzymatic systems.

Rubbers, polymer compositions, plastic compounds, cardboards used in light industry, methods for their production and composition. The main characteristics of the structure of these materials and methods for their determination.

Fastening materials: sewing threads and adhesive materials. Types of sewing threads, methods for their production, structural features. The main characteristics of the structure of threads and methods for their determination. adhesive materials. Modern theories of gluing. Methods of obtaining, composition and structure adhesive materials used in clothing and footwear industries. The main types of adhesive materials and their characteristics.

Geometric properties and density of materials.

Length, thickness, width of materials, area of ​​skins and furs, methods for determining these characteristics.

Mass of the material, linear and surface density of the material, methods for determining these characteristics.

Density, average density, true density of materials.

Mechanical properties of materials.

Classification of characteristics of mechanical properties. Theories of Strength and Fracture of Solids. Kinetic theory of strength.

Semi-cycle discontinuous and indissoluble characteristics obtained by stretching materials, devices and methods for their determination. Calculation methods for determining the forces at break of materials. Biaxial stretch. tear strength. Anisotropy of elongations and tensile forces of materials in different directions.

Single-cycle tensile characteristics. Components of complete deformation. Creep and relaxation phenomena in materials, methods for determining relaxation spectra. Model methods for studying relaxation phenomena in materials. High-cycle tensile characteristics, fatigue and fatigue of materials, devices and methods for determining fatigue characteristics.

Half-cycle and single-cycle characteristics obtained by bending materials, methods and instruments for their determination. Multi-cycle characteristics obtained by bending materials. Stresses and strains arising from compressive forces. Dependence of material thickness on external pressure. Multiple compression of materials.

Friction of materials, modern ideas about the nature of friction.

Factors determining the friction of materials. Friction test methods for various materials. Stretching and shedding of threads in fabrics.

Physical properties of materials.

Sorption properties of materials. Forms of connection of moisture with materials. Kinetics of water vapor sorption by materials. Hysteresis of sorption. Thermal effects and swelling of materials during moisture sorption. The main characteristics of the hygroscopic properties of materials, devices and methods for their determination.

permeability of materials. Air permeability, vapor permeability, water permeability, methods and instruments for determining these characteristics. Permeability of radioactive, ultraviolet, infrared rays through materials. Influence of composition, structure and properties of materials on their permeability.

Thermal properties of materials. The main characteristics of the thermal properties of materials, devices and methods for their determination. Influence of structure parameters and other factors on the thermal properties of materials. Effect of high and low temperatures on materials.

Heat resistance, heat resistance, fire resistance of materials.

Optical properties. The main characteristics of optical properties, devices and methods for their determination. Influence of technological and operational factors on the optical properties of materials.

Electrical properties of materials. Causes and factors of electrification and electrical conductivity of materials. The main characteristics of the electrified and electrical conductivity of materials, devices and methods for their determination.

Acoustic properties of materials.

Changes in the structure and properties of materials during processing and operation. Wear resistance of materials.

Changing the dimensions of materials under the influence of moisture and heat.

Shrinkage and attraction of materials during locking and wet heat treatment. Devices and methods for determining the shrinkage of materials.

Formability of materials. The main factors and causes of shaping and form-fixing of materials. Methods and devices for determining the forming ability of materials.

Wear resistance of materials. Basic wear criteria. Reasons for wear. Abrasion, stages of wear and the mechanism of abrasion and its determining factors. Peeling, the reasons for its formation. Methods and devices for determining the resistance of materials to abrasion.

Physical and chemical wear factors. The impact of light, light weather, washing and other factors on materials. Combined wear factors. Experienced wear. Laboratory modeling of wear.

Reliability of materials, main characteristics of reliability. Estimation and prediction of the reliability characteristics of materials.

Non-destructive methods for testing materials and their application.

Quality and certification of materials.

The quality of materials. Sampling and sampling of materials. Summary characteristics of test results, confidence limits. statistical models. Probabilistic quality assessment. Methods of statistical control and measurement of quality, quality levels. Nomenclature of quality indicators for various groups of materials.

Expert method for quality assessment. Quality management systems, domestic and international quality management standards. Certification. System and mechanism of certification. Basic conditions for certification. Mandatory and voluntary certification. Certification of materials and products in light industry.

2. Materials science of textile industry

Textile materials science and its development.

Classification of textile materials. The main types of natural and chemical fibers, threads and products from them. Areas of their rational use. Fibers, threads and products for technical and special purposes. Their classification, structural features and properties. Modern standard terminology. Economics and significance for various industries of the main types of textile materials. Prospects for their production.

The place of textile materials science among other technical sciences, its connection with fundamental sciences, with textile technology.

The development of textile materials science and the challenges facing it.

The main scientific schools of textile materials science are the directions of their scientific work. Outstanding domestic and foreign scientists in the field of textile materials science, their work. The role of the department of textile materials science of MSTU in the development of domestic textile materials science.

Textile fibers, their composition and structure.

Classification of textile fibers, polymeric substances that make up fibers. Features of their structure.

Development of scientific views on the structure of polymeric substances that make up fibers. Modern views on this issue.

Supramolecular structures of fiber-forming polymers.

The main polymers that make up the fibers: cellulose, keratin, fibroin, polyamides, polyesters, polyolefins, polyvinyl chlorides, polyacrylonitriles, polyurethanes. New types of polymers used for high-modulus, heat- and heat-resistant fibers and threads. Their characteristics. Modified chemical fibers: mtilon, polynosic, trilobal, shelon, siblon and others. Features of their structure and properties.

MATERIALS SCIENCE

Materials Science studies the structure and properties of materials.

Sewing material science studies the structure and properties of materials used for the manufacture of garments.

Fiber- this is a flexible, durable body, the length of which is many times greater than the transverse dimension.

Textile fibers- these are fibers that are used to make yarn, threads, fabrics and other textile products.

Fiber classification

The classification of fibers is based on their origin (production method) and chemical composition. According to their origin, all fibers are divided into natural and chemical:

natural fibers are fibers of plant, animal and mineral origin.

Chemical fibers- these are fibers that are obtained chemically in the factory.

Natural plant fibers

Natural plant fibers are obtained from cotton, flax and other plants.

Cotton- an annual tree-like plant. The fruits are capsules that contain numerous seeds covered with long hairs. This is cotton.

Cotton properties. A single cotton fiber, when viewed, is a very thin hair with a length of 6 to 52 mm. The natural color of the fibers is white or creamy. Cotton is highly hygroscopic Hygroscopicity - is the ability of fibers to absorb moisture from the environment. Cotton absorbs moisture quickly and dries quickly. The fibers are soft and warm to the touch.

Cotton is widely used in the production of fabrics, knitwear, sewing threads, etc. Cotton fabrics are durable, hygienic, lightweight, have a sufficient service life, are comfortable to wear, and are easy to wash and iron.

Linen- This is an annual plant that gives the fiber of the same name. There are three types of flax: fiber flax, curly flax, and intermediate flax. To obtain fibers, fiber flax is grown (straight stem, 1 m high and 3-5 mm in diameter)

Flax properties. Fiber length 15-26mm. The color of the fibers is from light gray to dark gray. Flax has a characteristic luster, because its fibers have a smooth surface. The hygroscopicity of flax fiber is greater than that of cotton. Linen tolerates more heat from the iron than cotton. Flax fibers are cool and hard to the touch.

Linen fiber is used for the production of fabrics, linen, tablecloths, towels, etc.

Linen fabrics have a smooth, shiny surface, are durable, iron well, have high hygienic properties, absorb moisture well, and wash quickly and well. Used for the manufacture of summer clothes, bed linen, tablecloths, napkins, towels.

What you need to know: materials science, sewing materials science, fiber, textile fiber, fibers of natural origin, fibers chemical origin, cotton, linen, hygroscopicity.

The concept of yarn, spinning, fabric and weaving

yarn is called a thin thread made from short fibers by twisting them. Yarn is used to produce fabrics, sewing threads, knitwear, and other textile products.

spinning called the set of operations, as a result of which yarn is obtained from the fibrous mass. The spinning process consists in the fact that the fibrous material is loosened, cleaned of impurities, the fibers are mixed and combed, then a ribbon is formed from the fibers, aligned and twisted so that the thread is strong.

Textile- This is a material that is made on a loom by weaving yarn.

weaving weave- This is the interlacing of warp and weft threads. The most common type of weaving is linen. In this weave, the warp and weft threads alternate through one.

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The warp threads are very strong, long, thin, do not change their length when stretched. Weft threads are less durable, thicker, short. When stretched, the weft threads increase in length.

The warp thread is defined:

1. Along the edge.

2. According to the degree of stretching (does not change its length)

3. By sound.

Along a piece of fabric along the edges it turns out edge. Edge to edge distance is called fabric width.

Stages of fabric production

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Finishing production: bleaching, dyeing, drawing

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Linen fabric production process

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The fabric has a front and back side. The front side can be identified by the following features:

1. The printed pattern on the front side is brighter than on the wrong side.

2. On the right side of the fabric, the weave pattern is clearer.

3. The front side is smoother (all defects are fabric defects - loops, nodules are displayed on the wrong side).

Comparative characteristics of properties

cotton and linen fabrics

Fabric properties	fabrics
	cotton	linen
Physical and mechanical properties Strength (fabric resistance to friction, washing, exposure to the sun, light, stretching) Wrinkle (wrinkling, wrinkling when sitting and wearing the product)	Less durable than linen Crushable	Strongly wrinkled
Hygienic properties Hygroscopicity (fabric properties to absorb moisture) thermal protection (fabric's ability to retain heat)		Higher than cotton
Technological properties shattering (loss of threads on sections) Shrinkage (the property of the fabric to shorten ("sit down") in the shared direction after wetting	Significant	Significant

Positive and negative qualities

cotton and linen fabrics and their uses

Care rules

for cotton and linen fabrics

International symbols for textile care

Symbol

Symbol meaning

The product can be boiled Allowed machine wash, rinse with constantly decreasing water temperature Be careful, rinse with constantly decreasing water temperature Wash by hand, at a temperature not exceeding 400C for a short period of time, after rinsing, wring out the product slightly without twisting Can't wash Can be bleached with chlorine bleach Do not bleach with chlorine or other means Hang to dry (on hangers) Lay flat to dry Iron at a temperature not exceeding 1100C Iron at a temperature not exceeding 1500C Iron at a temperature not exceeding 2000C Ironing is not allowed The product must not be dry-cleaned.

Fabric range

Velvet- Low-pile cotton fabric.

Batiste– very thin cotton fabric.

Velveteen- thick cotton fabric with a rib.

Denim- strong, dense cotton fabric for jeans.

satin– cotton fabric with a smooth shiny surface

chintz- thin, light cotton fabric.

Flannel- soft cotton fabric, piled on both sides.

frote- cotton fabric, looped on both sides.

What you need to know: yarn, spinning, thread, fabric, warp, weft, gray fabric, finishing, finished fabric, right side of the fabric, weaving, plain weaving, fabric manufacturing steps.

Natural fibers of animal origin

Wool and silk fabrics

Woolen and silk fabrics are made from animal fibers. These fabrics are environmentally friendly and therefore represent a certain value for a person and have a positive effect on his health.

Wool - this is the hairline of animals (sheep, goats, camels). It consists of long straight or wavy hairs and thin short, softer ones (wool and down). Fiber length from 10-250mm.

Before being sent to textile factories, wool is subjected to primary processing: sorted, i.e., fibers are selected according to quality; shake - loosen and remove clogging impurities; washed with hot water, soap and soda; dried in tumble dryers.

In the finishing industry, fabrics are dyed in different colors or different patterns are applied. Wool fabrics are produced in plain dyed, multicolored and printed.

Fabric properties depend on the qualities of the fibers (thickness, crimp, elasticity). From long and thin fibers get well draped fabric, from crimped fibers - fabric for winter clothes, since it has thermal properties. Elastic fiber fabrics low crease. Woolen fabrics are easily amenable to wet-heat treatment. Before sewing products, it must be borne in mind that woolen fabrics have a significant shrinkage(before cutting it is necessary decathing) And dust capacity(The product must be cleaned frequently). Woolen fabrics are used in tailoring dresses, suits, coats.

Wool is washed by hand at a temperature not exceeding 300C using special detergents. They are washed in a large amount of water, do not twist, dry, rolled up in a towel, and laid out on the table.

Iron the fabrics of their wool with an iron at a temperature of C through a damp cotton or linen cloth ( iron). Woolen products are cleaned using gasoline, acetone and ammonia.

Silk fabrics. The raw material for silk fabrics are mulberry or oak silkworm threads, which are wound and connected from several cocoons. The length of the cocoon thread is 700-800m. this thread is called raw silk.

The primary processing of silk includes the following operations: treatment of cocoons with hot steam to soften the silk glue; winding threads from several cocoons at the same time. In textile factories, raw silk is used to produce fabric. Silk fabrics are produced in one-colored, multi-colored, printed.

Natural silk fabrics are very durable, beautiful, low wrinkle, soft and smooth to the touch, have a pleasant sheen, drape well, are hygroscopic and breathable. But they are strongly stretched, crumbled, have significant shrinkage.

Silk is washed by hand at a temperature of 30-450C. Rinse first in warm and then in cold water with vinegar. Wet silk items are wrapped in cloth, slightly squeezing the water. It must be borne in mind that silk fabrics shed very much.

Silk is ironed with an iron at a temperature of C from the wrong side, without splashing, because water leaves stains on the fabric. Items made of silk fabrics are not recommended for cleaning. Linen, blouses, dresses, curtains, curtains, linings are sewn from silk.

In our time, new types of fabrics have appeared - mixed. Various fibers, especially synthetic fibers, are added to pure wool and pure silk fabrics, and then fabrics with new properties are obtained, which, for example, wrinkle less, hold wrinkles well, and are easier to wash and clean.

When sewing products and choosing models from silk and woolen fabrics, it is necessary to take into account the properties of these fabrics, the methods of their processing, as well as wet heat treatment.

Comparative characteristics of tissue properties

Woolen and silk fabrics can be identified by their appearance, by touch, by the appearance and breakage of threads, as well as by the nature of combustion. Threads of wool and silk burn badly, forming a black influx (speck) and spreading the smell of burnt horn or feather.

Weaving threads

Simple weaves include: linen, twill, satin and satin.

The repeating weave pattern in fabric is called rapport.

Signs of the formation of a weaving twill weave

1. The minimum number of threads in rapport is three.

2. The weaving pattern is shifted by one thread each time the weft thread is inserted.

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Thickening of the thread Violation of the integrity of the fabric

Unprinted spaces Serif Pattern skew

Front and back sides of fabrics.

The front and back sides in the fabric can be determined by the following features:

1. Along the edge of the fabric - there are punctures near the edges. On the front side, the fabric at the puncture sites is more convex.

2. In smooth fabrics, the wrong side is more fluffy than the front, because weaving defects are removed on the wrong side. To determine the fluffiness of the fabric, it must be considered at eye level.

3. According to the pattern of weaving:

In twill fabrics on the front side, the rib runs from bottom to top and from left to right;

Satin and satin weaves form a smooth front side.

4. In mixed fabrics, finishing threads are brought to the front side. For example, in brocade, a shiny metallic thread - Lurex - is displayed on the front side.

5. In drapes, the pile is more orderly on the front side, and the wrong side has a slightly sloppy appearance.

Fabric range

beaver- heavy, thick (from 4 mm) woolen fabric with a combed pile on the front side.

Boston- pure wool fabric.

Boucle- woolen fabric. The surface of the boucle is covered with loops and knots

Velours- pure wool fabric or felt with a thick pile. most valuable drapvelour.

Gabardine- Wool suiting fabric with a thin rib.

Drap- dense, thick woolen coat fabric with a little fleece.

Cashmere- light woolen fabric with a clearly visible thin diagonal hem.

Cloquet- woolen or silk fabric on two bases. The underside of the fabric is smooth, stretched, the top side is gathered, with a convex bubble pattern.

Crepe -(rough, wavy) - a group of fabrics, mainly silk crepe de chine, crepe georgette, crepe chiffon, crepe satin).

Crepe de chine- thin silk fabric with a matte pattern.

Moire- a fabric made of natural or artificial silk with a shiny pattern on a matte background.

Brocade- a fabric made of natural or artificial silk with metallic threads.

Reps- thick woolen or silk fabric with a small scar.

Cloth- Woolen fabric with felt lining.

Taffeta- thin, dense, shiny fabric made of natural and artificial silk, harsh and rustling.

Tweed- woolen fabric, reminiscent of homespun.

Chiffon- thin silk fabric, delicate, soft, with a matte surface.

What you need to know: wool, fleece, natural silk, rapport, twill weave, satin weave, satin weave, weaving defects, printing defects, front and back sides of fabrics, fabric properties: mechanical (strength, wrinkle, drape, wear resistance); physical (heat-shielding, dust capacity); technological (slip, shedding, shrinkage), range of fabrics.

Chemical fiber materials

Chemical fibers are obtained by processing raw materials of different origin. They are divided into artificial And synthetic.

Classification of chemical fibers

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Man-made fiber fabrics.

Viscose georgette crepe- translucent fabric of plain weave made of viscose fibers: rigid, elastic, free-flowing. Dresses, blouses are sewn from it.

Viscose poplin- light fabric made of viscose fibers with transverse scars. Goes to the manufacture of blouses and men's shirts.

Viscose taffeta - thin glossy dense fabric from viscose fiber with small transverse rivulets or patterns. It is used for dresses, shirts, blouses, skirts.

Crepe moroccan- silk viscose fabric. It is used for sewing blouses and light dresses.

Crepe satin- heavy fabric of viscose silk satin weave. Used to make blouses, dresses, summer suits.

Crepe tweed- heavy fabric twill weave of viscose and acetate fibers. It is used for tailoring dresses, suits, raincoats.

Crepe twill- soft twill weave made of artificial threads. It is produced printed and one-colored. Dresses and suits are sewn from it.

TO synthetic fibers relate:

- polyester fibers - polyester, lavsan, diolen, elan, crimplen. The fabrics are soft and flexible, but very durable. They practically do not wrinkle, they fix their shape well when heated - they hold folds and pleated tightly, are resistant to light, and are not affected by moths and microorganisms. The disadvantage is that they do not absorb moisture well.

- polyamide fibers nylon, capron, dederon, perlon are the most durable synthetic fibers. The fabrics are rigid, have a smooth surface, are durable, resistant to abrasion, wrinkle a little, absorb moisture poorly and are sensitive to high temperatures.

- polyacrylonitrile fibers- acrylic, nitron, perlan, acrylan, cashmere - in appearance they look like wool. Properties similar to polyester fibers, but sensitive to high temperatures: melt quickly, turning brown, then burn with a smoky flame, forming a solid ball.

-elastane fiber- lycra, dorlastan - extremely elastic, increase their length by 7 times, returning to their original state. Fabrics are used for tailoring tight-fitting silhouettes.

The scheme for obtaining fabric from chemical fibers

What you need to know: man-made fibers, man-made fibers, synthetic fibers, viscose fibers, acetate and triacetate fibers, polyester fibers, polyamide fibers, polyacrylonitrile fibers, elastane fibers, man-made fiber fabric weaving, range of fabrics.