Caring for fruit trees in autumn. Preparing the garden for winter - how to feed fruit trees in the fall? To survive the cold

September. In the first decade of the month, the planting of strawberries on a previously prepared site is completed. Its rows are mulched with peat, making sure that the apical bud is open.
Picking up plum fruits autumn varieties apple and pear trees and place them in storage facilities, which are pre-dried, ventilated, cleaned of dust and dirt and disinfected by burning sulfur (10-20 g per 1 m3) in a carefully closed room. By the end of the harvest, the hunting belts are removed and burned.
At fruit trees Intensive root growth begins about one to two weeks after harvest. During this period, they should be given basic fertilizer. If the soil under the crown of the tree is kept under black fallow, fertilizers are evenly distributed over the entire crown projection area and the soil is carefully dug up with a garden fork. Fertilizers are applied locally on the sod near-stem circle. At the same time, for the introduction of organic fertilizers along the border of the crown projection, they dig a trench to the width of a shovel and a depth of two bayonets. The sod is carefully removed, the earth from the trench, so as not to spoil the lawn, is placed in an iron trough or on a piece of film, roofing material. After filling the trench with organic matter, it is compacted, earth is added on top and the turf is laid in its original place. Excess land is transferred to the dug up area. To make the turf take root faster, it is immediately watered. When only mineral fertilizers are applied, wells are made with a garden drill along the border of the crown projection, as described for June. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the excavated soil and the well is filled with the mixture.

For an apple and pear tree up to 6 years of age, the fertilizers that were laid in the planting pit are enough. Under a tree 7-12 years old, 4 kg of organic fertilizer and, accordingly, two-thirds and a third of a faceted glass of superphosphate and potassium chloride must be applied per 1 m2 of the near-stem circle. Under a tree for 13-20 years, 6 kg of organic fertilizers, 1 faceted glass of superphosphate and half as much potassium chloride are applied per 1 m2. Under a tree older than 21 years - 8 kg of organic fertilizers and, respectively, one and a half and two thirds of a faceted glass of superphosphate and potassium chloride. organic fertilizers(compost, peat, humus, rotted manure) are applied every 4 years. If instead of the above mineral fertilizers use nitrophoska or wood ash, then they are given in the same doses as superphosphate. For cherries and plums, the doses of mineral and organic fertilizers are the same as for apple and pear trees under the age of 12, but it is advisable for them to replace potassium chloride with sulfate.

October. Cleaning starts chokeberry, winter varieties apple trees and pears. It is better to do this in dry weather, since wet fruits are more quickly damaged by harmful microorganisms during storage. If the fruits are harvested in the rain, then before laying in the storage they must be dried in a ventilated place. Preservation of fruits is facilitated by layering them in a box with small wood shavings or hardwood sawdust, as well as wrapping them in paper soaked in mineral (vaseline) oil. Apples of many varieties (except for Antonovka ordinary) are well stored in sealed plastic bags with a capacity of up to 1.5 kg.
After the first air frosts or a week before the mass fall of apple and pear trees those varieties that are damaged by scab are sprayed with a 5% solution of urea (500 g per 10 l of water) or a 10% solution of potassium chloride (1 kg per 10 l of water), treating not only foliage, but branches, trunk and fallen leaves under the crown.
Digging and filling with fertilizers landing pits(see the chapter "Placing and planting fruit and berry crops"). If there are dying or dead adult fruit trees on the site and the gardener intends to replace them with new ones, then he must remember that a seedling of the same species can be located no closer than one and a half meters from the stem of the tree to be removed. For example, you cannot plant an apple tree after an apple tree, but a tree of a different breed is quite acceptable. This rule also applies to berry crops. For example, the area freed from under the old blackcurrant bushes, after fertilizing the soil, can be occupied by any fruit or berry crop, of course, except for blackcurrant.
After leaf fall, the site is carefully raked and then the fallen leaves, weeds, tops of potatoes, root crops, etc. are composted. The site should be clean and well-groomed before winter. At the same time, they start pruning currants and gooseberries. The absence of foliage and relatively warm weather allow this operation to be carried out qualitatively. Cut branches, as we have already said, are cut into pieces for use in hidden drainage.
If there are trees on dwarf rootstocks on the site, then the soil under them is mulched with a 5-10 cm layer of peat, humus or sawdust, since their root system, due to low frost resistance and surface placement in the soil, can freeze when early severe colds occur, especially when lack of sufficient snow cover.
In non-hardy raspberry varieties, the shoots are bent to the soil and tied to each other at a height of 30-40 cm from the soil surface. Its winter-hardy varieties are not bent down for the winter, but tied to a trellis so that in the spring they are not broken by settling snow. Sometimes, for the same purpose, currant branches are carefully tied into a bundle.
Second half of October - best time for planting berry crops. Planted plants are watered regardless of the weather, giving half a bucket per bush, and then the soil is mulched with peat or humus.

November. All plant residues are removed from the garden. The compost heap is covered with old plastic wrap, roofing felt or roofing material. If the site is located on a slope, then anti-erosion measures are carried out to avoid washing off the soil in the spring: they dig grooves, arrange small earthen ridges, etc.
Mice cause great harm to apple trees (up to the age of 15-17 years). Therefore, the boles are tied with roofing felt or roofing material, but without fail first placing burlap or rags so that in the spring the bark does not receive thermal burns. The old nylon stockings, which are applied starting from the soil surface, have proven themselves as a strapping. Since there is no warming under such a harness, it can be applied long before the autumn cold, but it is better in dry weather. There should be no open areas of bark between the strapping and the soil. The lower part of the trunk of trees grafted on dwarf rootstocks or on vigorous ones with an insert of a dwarf rootstock should be protected very carefully, since the thick and juicy bark of dwarf rootstocks especially attracts rodents.
In soddy areas, the probability of damage to fruit trees by mice increases. Here, a seed should be applied against them. For this, zinc phosphide is used (50 g of the substance per 1 kg of grain, except for oats, and 50 g sunflower oil), but you can do it the same way as against water rats. The seed is placed in paper bags and placed one at a time near the stem of the fruit tree. They are also laid out on strawberry and raspberry plantations, about compost heaps. In the spring, seeding is often the cause of the death of birds. To prevent this from happening, the bags should be covered with pieces of board or put in a piece of pipe, and after the snow melts and the soil dries, they should be destroyed.
In snowless winters and in poorly protected areas, strawberry plants often freeze out, and in clayey places, plants can also be pushed out of the soil, especially on a newly planted plantation. Therefore, the rows of strawberries should be mulched with peat after the soil freezes to a depth of 5-6 cm. On a strawberry plantation, for better retention and accumulation of snow, shields are installed or cut currant branches are scattered. It is good to carry out snow retention on a young plantation of berry bushes.
A very common winter damage to fruit trees is sunburn that affect the trunk and bases of skeletal branches. You can protect them by applying a creamy mixture of clay with mullein with a brush. Whitewashing has also proven itself (2.5 kg of lime and 0.5 kg of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). Suitable, as we have already noted, is thin light-colored paper, such as newsprint, applied in two or three layers in early autumn.
After the first 5-10-degree frosts, annual shoots of fruit crops are harvested for grafting.
...But even in the winter months there is work to be done in the garden. For example, snow retention, which we have already talked about. And after heavy snowfalls, snowdrifts in the near-trunk circles of fruit trees are compacted, protecting them from mice. As snow accumulates, boles and bases of skeletal branches are systematically spudded with it, thereby improving wintering conditions for fruit trees. Snow for this is taken, as they say, from the outside, that is, where garden and garden crops are not grown.

Save so you don't lose!

Garden care in the autumn period consists of a set of works that must be carried out on time and in accordance with all the rules.

Caring for fruit trees in October consists of a thorough check of plants, pruning and removal of shoots and tops, as well as whitewashing boles.

In November, it is necessary to collect and burn fallen or cut branches and leaves. It is also recommended to dig up the soil around the trees this month. When digging, plants can be fed - add superphosphate (100 g under a tree), potash and nitrogen fertilizers (50 g under a tree).

Pruning fruit trees
In autumn, sanitary pruning is carried out in the garden. It consists in removing all weak and crossing shoots from the trees, as well as broken and dried branches. This must be done because pests or pathogens may well hide on such branches.

Apples, pears, plums and other fruit trees are very convenient to cut in the fall, after harvesting. Trees can usually be pruned before the first frost. In November, it is no longer worth disturbing the plants: it is already cold enough for this.

To do everything right, carefully inspect the trees, make sure that the branches of each grow correctly and do not create obstacles for each other. Anything that interferes must be removed. You can form a tree crown using a pruner (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 26 mm) and a delimber (cuts branches with a diameter of up to 40 mm).

Removing tops on trees
Tops are strong, fattening shoots with large leaves and underdeveloped buds. Most often they form on old skeletal branches. Usually tops grow from dormant buds, starting to develop actively. Why are wolves so dangerous? They take away the strength of the tree, thicken its crown, and they never bear fruit.

Tops grow on young fruit crop after the tree has been damaged. For example, you cut a large branch or it broke on its own. In old fruit trees, fattening shoots may appear after pruning. Also, excessive top dressing with nitrogen fertilizer and abundant watering can provoke the growth of tops.

You can get rid of tops with pruning. Her goal in this case is not only to thin out and lighten the crown of the tree, but also to form new young shoots, direct them along such a trajectory so that they do not thicken the crown. It is necessary to remove the fattening branches inside the crown on the ring. After cutting the tops, the wounds on the tree should be treated garden pitch.

Protecting the bark of fruit trees
Sharp temperature changes during weather changes often lead to the fact that cracks (frost cracks) appear on the bark of fruit trees. These faults are quite deep and cause significant damage to plants. In addition, cracks can occur under the influence of the active sun (sunburn), strong wind or night chills. Also, pests of fruit crops can cause cracks in the bark.

To protect the trees, trunks should be covered with whitewash or a special protective fiber in autumn. This is necessary in order to protect the trunk from direct sunlight. Whitewash can be prepared independently. To do this, dilute 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate for disinfection and 0.1 kg of wood glue in 10 liters of water for a stronger “adhesion” to the bark.

To protect trees from damage by insects or rodents, it is necessary to use special protective nets that are wrapped around the trunk.

Autumn top dressing of fruit trees
Autumn top dressing of trees is carried out after harvesting. It is performed to improve the soil, which has been depleted over the season. In autumn, fruit trees need to be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, preferably without nitrogen content (diammophoska, nitrophos, superphosphate).

Fertilizers are applied to the near-trunk circles - under the roots of trees. Foliar feeding at this time of the year is useless. Depending on which fertilizer you choose (liquid or dry), the principle of their application depends.

Liquid fertilizers are applied into special grooves made in the trunk circle around the tree. The more grooves, the better the effect.
To apply dry fertilizer, you must first remove upper layer soil (1-2 cm) in the near-trunk circle, evenly distribute fertilizer and return the earth back.
In autumn, it is best to use the second feeding option, since in this way the fertilizers will be absorbed by the plants gradually, coming to the roots along with melted snow. Liquid formulations are more effective in spring and summer.

As a dry fertilizer, superphosphate can be applied at the rate of 100 g per 1 sq.m of the trunk circle and potash fertilizers at the rate of 50 g per 1 sq.m. After fertilizing, the soil in the near-stem circle should be covered with a layer of mowed grass - it will act as mulch.

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Autumn is the time to take care of the condition personal plot and garden. Creation comfortable conditions overwintering for fruit trees is a top priority for gardeners. What does autumn garden maintenance include? In anticipation of the winter cold, after the leaves have completely fallen off, you can proceed to sanitary pruning, thinning, crown reduction perennial trees up to 4-4.5 m. It is better to postpone detailed anti-aging pruning until spring. Why? First, there are fears of the possibility of trees freezing. Secondly, the places of cuts of perennial branches large diameter can become a source of frost damage even when treated with garden pitch or oil paint.In the autumn, a thorough inspectionfruit trees , remove dry, damaged branches. Together with the removal of diseased, dry branches, they clean the trees of fruits dried on the branches, burn nests, egg-laying pests, cut out growths, remove leaf litter, root shoots, where many types of aphids have accumulated.

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Protection of fruit trees from rodents

All this must be destroyed immediately. When sections are formed with a diameter of more than 2 cm, they are covered with garden pitch. Stamps of young trees along the entire length are tied with a special nonwoven fabric or other improvised means to protect against damage by mouse-like rodents with a deepening of the strapping material into the soil by 3-5 cm.

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For example, I do this. I wrap young trees with narrow bandages cut from spunbond or lutrasil. And then I begin to dig in - the ends of the bandage are dug in with earth, as if deepened.

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To keep the bark from cracking

To prevent the occurrence bark cracks, frost crackers on the boles of fruit-bearing trees carry out their whitewashing, having previously cleaned the trunk.

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Processing trees, shrubs, grapes

On stone fruits from diseases in the fall, treatment with copper preparations can be carried out, for example, Bordeaux liquid, and on pome fruits - with Preparation 30. Treatment with Preparation 30 can be postponed to spring. Pass it over the swelling kidneys.

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In the vineyard, plants are also carefully inspected after harvest. Before sheltering for the winter, be sure to take care of keeping the plants in a healthy state. If the presence of the leaf form of phylloxera was noticed, it is necessary in early spring to treat the swollen buds with Preparation 30. Unripe shoots should be cut out in the fall. If shoots affected by anthracnose are noticed, from autumn or early spring the bushes are treated with 3% Bordeaux liquid - this is one of the universal fungicides, which have the longest duration of protective action.

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Fruit tree nutrition

In late autumn, organic, organo-mineral or mineral phosphorus-potassium fertilizer- superphosphate, potassium sulfate, others 6-9 g each active substance per 1m2. Fertilizers are applied into holes or wells 20-30 cm deep in the zone of near-stem circles of trees at a distance of 0.5-1 m outside the crown projection or for digging. On each square meter make one or two holes or wells.

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For orchard most importance have fertilizers of the prolonged action. The main ones are organic and organo-mineral fertilizers. Nutrients are released from them slowly as they are decomposed by microorganisms. The composition of organic fertilizers (manure, composts, etc.) includes the entire set of perennial fruit and berry plants nutrients, as well as hormones, vitamins, etc. Their introduction affects the growth, productivity of trees for 3-5 years, while the yield increases up to 25 and even 50 percent. Organo-mineral fertilizers include both organic (peat, humates etc.) and mineral fertilizers.

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According to the Institute of Horticulture and Viticulture, in the fourth year after the introduction of organo-mineral fertilizers under a fruit-bearing apple tree (to a depth of 15-18 cm), the content of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium available for plants in the soil at a depth of up to 60 cm is several times higher than their content by unfertilized areas of the garden. This is due to the fact that locally introduced autumn digging garden for 2/3 bayonet spades of fertilizer are localized in the zone of application, creating within the boundaries of the main distribution of the root system of perennial plants, centers of nutrition.

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In addition, in areas of a garden or vegetable garden where organo-mineral fertilizers were used when digging the soil, you can also notice that the soil became looser, crumbles well. This means an improvement in its agrophysical properties.

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When using mineral fertilizers since autumn, it must be remembered that the introduction of fast-acting species can lead to the activation of growth processes in trees against the background of warm weather and a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil, which will cause serious damage in winter by low negative temperatures air.

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For autumn garden soil dressing late autumn(November), as a rule, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (nitrophoska, nitroammophoska) are used, and in more early dates(October) you can apply ammonium forms of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). At the same time, the dose of nitrogen fertilizers is crushed: in the fall, 1/3-1/2 doses are applied; in early spring, 2-3 weeks before flowering trees, intrasoil fertilizing with fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers is used (1/2-1/3 of the main dose); in summer period with irrigation water, they bring in the rest of the dose of nitrogen. Autumn filling the soil with fertilizers contributes to the formation of resistance fruit plants to adverse conditions external environment, since the winter hardiness of trees is determined to a large extent by how much nutrients they will accumulate in the course of preparation for winter and to what extent these substances will turn into protective ones. A prerequisite for a sufficient accumulation of reserve nutrients is the optimization food regimen fruit plants, which allows you to ensure the dynamic growth of all organs, withstand spring temperature changes, bloom profusely in winter and form a full-fledged crop.

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Watering the garden

In connection with the upcoming winter cold, you need to give enough water to the trees, shrubs with water - to spend moisture charging irrigation so that the plants overwinter more easily.

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Do I need to dig trees in the fall?

After the leaves fall, that is, when fruit trees and shrubs “sleep”, their active life activity is stopped, they begin the main tillage in the garden - digging. Digging the soil in the garden is necessary to maintain the optimal fine-clod structure by mixing - the top layer of soil (with the destroyed structure) moves down. At the same time, the lower layer moves to the surface.

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Deep digging of the soil in autumn creates the conditions for the formation of a deep root system. This helps to increase its resistance to sharp drops in temperature in winter and significant increases in summer. The approximate depth of digging the soil in autumn, especially in the young garden, should be up to 30 cm - on the spade bayonet, and closer to the trunk - 10-15 cm.

The first thing the gardener should take care of is to create a strong skeleton (skeleton) of the crown for each tree, to achieve maximum foliage of the fruit tree and keep it in an active state throughout growing season, ensure the protection of wood (stem, skeletal and overgrowing branches) from mechanical damage, pests and diseases, as well as the creation favorable conditions for the growth and development of the root system.

In stone fruits, the root system lies close to the surface. Therefore, the soil under them is cultivated somewhat finer. Forks and a shovel should be placed under the crown sideways to the trunk.

It is advisable to throw soil to the trunk before winter, as if to pile up a tree. Careful soil care in the near-trunk circles contributes to the accumulation of moisture, as well as the destruction of weeds and wintering garden pests.

In early spring, the soil is loosened by 8-10 cm to preserve the moisture accumulated in the autumn-winter period. Loosening should be carried out as early as possible so as not to dry out the soil and prevent the formation of a crust on its surface. At the same time, it is necessary to unravel the stem of the fruit tree.

Fertilizer for a young garden

Fertilizers contribute to the rapid development of fruit trees, increase winter hardiness and accelerate their entry into the fruiting season. It is necessary to introduce into the soil, mainly nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

• Once every 2-3 years, add humus at the rate of up to 4 kg.
• Annually - mineral fertilizers at the rate of 5-6 g of active ingredient: ammonium nitrate 15-20 g, superphosphate - up to 40 g and potassium salt - 12-15 g.

If organic and mineral are added at the same time, then the rate is reduced by half. Organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall, covering them for digging.

From mineral fertilizers, phosphorus and potash are introduced in the fall. Nitrogen fertilizers are sprinkled in the spring during digging or loosening the earth.

Mulching the soil retains moisture. AT arid conditions mulching is very effective. In the spring, after the first tillage (loosening) of the soil, the trunk circle is covered with humus, old leaves, small straw, sawdust 5-6 cm thick.

In addition to retaining moisture, mulching prevents soil structure from breaking down and greatly reduces soil maintenance labor costs by eliminating the need for frequent loosening and weeding.

In addition, mulching protects the soil from freezing and thus contributes to a better preservation of the root system of young fruit trees from freezing in harsh and snowless winters.

For young gardens, an obligatory agricultural method is watering young fruit trees. When irrigated, for more effective use land, some agricultural crops, such as potatoes, vegetables, phacelia, strawberries, can be sown in the aisles of the garden. You can not sow corn, sunflower, sorghum, cereals.

Inter-row crops should be grown before the trees begin to bear fruit, because in a fruit-bearing garden, inter-row crops can be harmful to them.

Every real owner knows that the garden needs in the fall in large numbers attention and care. The work done during these months is intended to cultivate the soil, enrich the earth with the necessary substances and ensure the protection of plants during the winter.

Formation of landscape design

Garden care in autumn includes planting young fruit trees. Since the soil has not yet cooled down after the warm summer time, the roots of young seedlings quickly take root in a new place. Moreover, plants in the fall do not release excess energy for the growth of leaves and the formation of fruits. Therefore, they direct all their strength to the roots. What to plant in the garden in autumn? This is up to you. There is practically no such perennial plant which would not be accepted at that time. Despite the fact that autumn is considered the rainy season, it is recommended not to neglect watering recently, as the wind can dry out the top layer of the earth too quickly.

The best fertilizer

Of course, the garden takes a lot of time and you can prepare the fertilizer yourself. Many people think that the main task of working in the garden in the fall is cleaning up fallen leaves. Their summer residents are usually raked into heaps and burned. This is the biggest mistake. Why burn or throw away life-giving substances, and then separately buy fertilizers, if you can make them yourself? We suggest that you act rationally and do not spend extra money in order to fertilize the garden in the fall. Wait until all the leaves have fallen, then go over it with a lawn mower to chop it well. Further around each tree carefully without damaging root system, make small holes. Experts recommend raking crushed leaves in them. All this will quickly decompose. Our small leaves will turn into an excellent organic additive for the soil. Thus, you will still carry out mulching and insulate the roots of trees for the winter. Here is such a triple benefit for your garden!

Getting ready for winter

Usually no work is done in the garden during the summer. During this period, a considerable number of pests accumulate here. Garden care in the fall also involves the processing of trunks and When is the best time to do this? Immediately after harvesting, fruit trees are recommended to be treated with urea. In this regard, a solution is prepared. We need 500 grams of urea per 10 liters of water.

In cases where scab attacked trees or large quantity the crop suffered from rot, the diseased plant needs to be processed blue vitriol. The preparation is simple. Its solution consists of 100 grams of vitriol and 10 liters of water. And the fruits that have suffered from rot must be removed from the territory garden plot. Trees must be carefully dug up. For this, it is better to use a pitchfork so as not to damage the roots. After that, you can fertilize and water the tree. It is not recommended to level the soil after digging. There is an explanation for this. An uneven surface absorbs moisture better after rains and melted snow. They will then perfectly level the ground. These are the tasks that summer residents have to perform, preparing their site for winter. Now you know what to do in the fall in the garden.

tree pruning

Pruning of fruit trees is usually done twice a year. This must be done in the spring and autumn periods. Consider the procedure for preparing plants for winter. Pruning the garden in autumn takes place after all the foliage has fallen, but before the onset of frost. Experts are of the opinion that this process increases the possible yield by next year. But you can't overdo it. You better stick certain rules so as not to harm the trees. One of the purposes of pruning is to thin the branches to improve airflow and sunlight to the entire canopy of the tree. And in young seedlings, this procedure is performed to form correct crown. As for mature trees, their thinning consists in cutting out branches that grow towards the trunk or down. They are not needed. Also remove branches that intersect with others. Thus, the crown is formed correctly. Branches should be evenly distributed in all directions. So the plant will get enough light.

An important factor is the shortening of the branches, which is performed in order to control their growth and set the direction in the right direction. The simplest purpose of pruning is to remove dry or diseased shoots. They need to be removed from the garden and burned. This is done so that the disease does not spread to other trees. Pruning dry branches does not cause any damage to plants. This procedure does not require additional manipulations. But diseased branches are, in fact, alive. The places of their cut for a tree are like open wounds. They need to be processed. For this, it is best to use drying oil or oil paint. It also does not hurt to water the trees well and add fertilizer to the soil after pruning.

Secrets of the formation of crowns of fruit trees

Garden care in autumn is about pruning trees, as we have already mentioned. But it must be carried out not chaotically, but based on established norms. Do not prune young trees too much. This will slow down their growth and delay the time of fruiting. To form a strong skeleton of a tree, it is necessary to leave only one main branch-top, and all competitors should be removed. If the annual growth of the plant is too weak, then you need to carry out a stronger pruning. There are times when it is better to remove one large branch than to constantly remove many small ones. If the cut diameter is greater than 1 centimeter, then it must be treated with garden pitch, drying oil or oil paint.

Tree pruning should be done after the leaves have fallen and before the onset of frost. There should not be branches that depart from the axis at sharp angles, they must be removed. Pruning each tree is an individual task. The intensity of the procedure depends on the type and variety of the plant. If the tree has suffered from frost, then its haircut should be postponed until spring. Then you will definitely see the affected area. For older trees and shrubs, heavy pruning can be applied to rejuvenate the plant. All waste must be removed from the garden area and burned. All tools must be sharp so that during the procedure they do not pull the bark off the plants.

Tree trunk cleaning

We are more and more convinced that the garden in the fall, the processing of trees requires a lot of time. Attention should also be paid to cleaning the trunks of fruit plants. This type of work is usually carried out every two to three years. Using a metal brush or scraper, you need to clean off the dead layer of bark. But this is done very carefully so as not to damage living tissues. This process also aims to kill pests that often live in layers of dry bark. After cleaning the trunk, it needs to be whitewashed. This is done in order to protect against temperature changes, wind and new pests.

Planting trees in autumn

Many people ask the question: “What to plant in the fall in the garden?” In fact, all fruit trees. You can repot whatever you want in the fall. The most popular plants are apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, apricots. The main thing is to properly prepare the soil and seedlings. Also, autumn is a favorable period for transplanting shrubs such as gooseberries, currants, honeysuckle, raspberries. At the same time, do not forget to water them abundantly and properly fertilize.

The value of autumn work

Garden care in the fall is an integral part of the work of every summer resident. In this way, he takes care of his plants, prevents their diseases, promotes better growth trees. The quality of autumn work determines the future harvest. The condition of the trees after winter will also depend on the preparation for winter. Therefore, do not neglect autumn work in the garden.