Holes on rose leaves what to do. Rose leaves in holes: how to process a flower

In the entire European part of Russia, it is quite difficult to find a backyard or summer cottage with a flower garden where several rose bushes would not be grown. Such universal recognition and love of flower growers are explained, first of all, by the attractiveness of cultivated species, a long flowering period and a variety of varieties. But in order for flowering bushes to retain their spectacular attractiveness and decorative qualities, they need constant comprehensive care. Rose pest control is just one of the components of this set of measures.

Unfortunately, most ornamental varieties obtained as a result of long-term selection through repeated crosses and selection are susceptible to various diseases and pests.
Most insects, feeding on various parts of cultivated flowers, reduce the decorative appeal of roses or simply destroy the plant. Only knowing the structural features and lifestyle of insect pests, you can choose effective methods of dealing with them. We suggest that you familiarize yourself in more detail with the group of insects most harmful to rose bushes, and consider ways to prevent and protect roses from pests. The publication also provides general recommendations on the organization of prevention and control of harmful insects.

The most harmful insects

One of the factors negatively affecting the state of flowering bushes is the activity of phytophage insects, as a result of which physiological processes can be disturbed, the development of plants is delayed, their growth is weakened, and as a result, decorative qualities decrease. That is why, in order to timely detect harmful insects and take the necessary measures, it is necessary to conduct a periodic inspection of flowering bushes, especially in spring. We present the most common and harmful pests of roses, a description of their features and ways of effective protection.

Sawfly

Rose sawfly caterpillar

The most common types of sawflies are: ascending, descending, comb mustache, slimy, warty. Adults are small hymenoptera insects that are absolutely harmless to green spaces, unlike their larvae, which resemble caterpillars in appearance. The larvae, eating the foliage of rose bushes, leave only bare stems. Young, immature flowers growing both in the open field and in greenhouses and conservatories are at particular risk. In early spring, as a rule, in April, caterpillars (larvae) appear from the eggs, reaching a length of no more than 5 mm, with a translucent body of a whitish color. At first, the larvae stay in a compact group, then gradually spread, eating the leaves of the entire bush. After about a month, mature caterpillars move to the soil and pupate.

Descending rose sawfly

Damage- ascending sawflies, moving up the inside of the leaves, eat the entire pulp of the leaf, leaving behind the characteristic vein skeletons and bare stems. Descending sawflies, to move down, gnaw through young shoots, making tunnels in them, which leads to wilting and death of young shoots.

Prevention and methods of struggle:

autumn loosening of the soil under the bushes, in order to destroy the pupae;
pruning and burning damaged young shoots;
spring treatment of bushes with insecticides - preparations designed to destroy harmful insects and their larvae.

rose aphid

green rose aphid

The two most common species found on flowering plants are the green rose aphid and the leaf aphid. It is a small insect, the size of which does not exceed a few millimeters, grassy green, black or brown in color. With the help of a special proboscis designed to pierce young shoots and leaves of a rose, the aphid sucks the juice from the plant. From eggs laid on the plant in autumn, colonies of larvae appear in spring, which feed on the juices of shoots, buds and young leaves. Having passed into the adult phase, the period of active reproduction begins, which forms several generations per season.

The natural enemy of aphids is the ladybug.

Damage- feeding on the cell sap of the plant, aphid colonies are able to completely destroy the flower. Young stems with buds wither, the leaves wrinkle and curl ugly. Adult individuals, laying eggs, are able to move from an infected flower to the rest, thus filling the entire flower garden. Insects that feed on aphids are hoverflies, goldfish, and ladybugs.

Prevention and methods of struggle:

early spring treatment of rose bushes with insecticides (arrivo, aktara, rogor, calypso);
biological preparations - agravertin, fitoverm, it is recommended to use during the period of the mass appearance of insects;
folk remedies for pests - tincture or decoction of wormwood, soap solution.

Spider mite

spider mite

One of the most common pests of cultivated plants in general and roses in particular is a small arthropod insect, no more than 0.5 mm long, more often yellow, green or brown in color. A characteristic feature is that only fertilized females successfully survive the harsh winter, hiding in crevices of tree bark, fallen leaves and other plant debris. With the onset of warming up to 13-15 degrees, the females get out of the shelter and move to the inner surfaces of the leaves that have appeared. After some time, having built a thin web, the female lays eggs in it. The period of development of the larva is 1.5-3 weeks, depending on the air temperature. Larvae, as well as adult insects, feed on the juice of young leaves, shoots and buds of flowering plants.

Rose affected by spider mites

Damage- the affected leaves first change color (become grayish, then brown), and soon wither and die. Without timely intervention, this group of mites is able to completely cover the plant with the smallest cobwebs and completely destroy the rose bush. The symptoms of the lesion are a pale color of the foliage, on which whitish dots are observed from the inside, the number of which increases with time.

Prevention and methods of struggle:

periodic agrotechnical measures - digging the soil under the bushes, removing weeds;
spraying plants with chemicals designed to combat ticks (acrex, isofen, omayt);
the use of a natural enemy - a predatory mite (only in greenhouses or greenhouses).

rose leaf

An almost omnivorous pest, common in almost all regions of Russia, but more common in the steppe zone. A small night butterfly (wingspan up to 2 cm) with a thin belly, brownish-gray color. In autumn, the leafworm lays its eggs in the crevices of the bark of fruit trees, where they successfully overwinter. In the middle of spring, a mass revival of greenish-brown caterpillars up to 2.5 cm long is observed. They feed mainly on leaves and rosebuds, eating round holes in them and penetrating inside the buds. After the completion of the period of feeding and development, the caterpillars pupate in leaves rolled into a tube. Depending on the air temperature, the period of development of a cocoon into a butterfly lasts 1-2 weeks. Mass emergence of butterflies is observed in June-July.

Rose leaf caterpillar

Damage- affects young shoots, leaves and buds. Rose bushes with damaged leaves lose their decorative appearance, perforated buds with eaten pistils and stamens do not bloom, the plant looks weakened. The greatest harm is done during the growth and development of the caterpillar.

Prevention and methods of struggle:

spring treatment of plants with nitrafen, a product designed to combat wintering stages of pests (despite the ban, it is sold in flower shops) or DNOC, which is now sold under the name double blow;
twisted leaves are manually cut off and burned;
treatment of bushes with an actara preparation, with a large accumulation of caterpillars.

thrips

Thrips on rose

Rose infected with thrips

Damage- feeding on the cell sap of plants, thrips pierce the petals, buds and leaves of the flower. After some time, spores of various fungi get into the formed punctures, the weakened plant begins to hurt, wither and, without timely intervention, may die. If thrips settled in the opened bud, then dirty yellow spots, scratches appear on the petals, the flower quickly fades.

Prevention and methods of struggle:

autumn digging of the soil under the bushes, removal of fallen leaves;
removal of damaged flowers with subsequent burning;
treatment of plants with insecticides or nettle infusion.

General recommendations for pest prevention and control

Protection of roses from pests is a set of measures aimed at creating the most favorable conditions for plants, the basis of which is prevention. Any invasion of harmful insects is easier to prevent than to deal with them later, and this requires appropriate knowledge about the features of the structure and lifestyle of uninvited guests of the flower garden. We hope that the material of the publication will become a reliable help for you and help you organize effective care for the queen of flowers - the rose.

Good day to all readers!

Insect pests can cause such serious damage to roses that it can lead to weakening and even death of the plant. Carried out correct and timely measures to combat uninvited guests, at the same time reduce the risk of infection of the queen of flowers with infectious diseases.

It is necessary to start preventive measures with the preparation of protective equipment - rubber gloves and respirators. After finishing the treatments, wash protective equipment, face and hands with running water and soap.

Invasion of pests is most dangerous during growth and flowering. All pests are divided into sucking, gnawing and miners.

Sucking insects and their larvae feed on liquid. They pierce the tissues of the leaf or shoot and draw out the contents of the cells. The natural course of physiological processes is disturbed.

The main sign of the destructive activity of insects is a change in the color of the leaves, twisting them into a tube of a leaf plate and premature fall of the foliage. Such results appear when the plant is inhabited by aphids, mites, leafhoppers or scale insects. Pests can appear both indoors and outdoors.

Aphid

green aphid- the largest species of all. Shiny insect of green, rarely brown color with long black antennae. In spring, eggs laid in autumn hatch into larvae. Over time, wingless females grow out of them. From the eggs laid by them, already winged insects appear, which settle throughout the site, creating new colonies.

If you do not fight aphids, then more than a dozen generations develop over the summer. The most favorite habitats of aphids are young shoots and buds - here the most delicate integumentary tissues. The leaves are tougher, aphids settle on them less often. Damaged shoots are bent, buds do not open.

rose aphid. It occurs on rose bushes in numerous colonies. They settle on the wrong side of the leaf, on young shoots, peduncles, buds. Barely visible to the naked eye, the larvae quickly grow into wingless female founders of new colonies, laying up to a hundred larvae.

After 8-10 days, hatched larvae are able to lay up to 100 larvae each. And so all summer. Winged individuals - males and females, appear by the end of summer. Mated females lay fertilized eggs, from which larvae will appear only in spring.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

After removing the shelter, the bushes are treated with a strong solution of urea, a half-liter jar of the product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. The bushes are sprayed with a solution at an air temperature of at least +5 C. When the first insects appear, pest control agents are used, such as Inta-Vir, Iskra, Tanrek. You need to repeat the treatment in 15-20 days. These drugs have a systemic effect, quickly penetrate into plant tissues and are almost not washed off by rain.

Aphids are carried by plantings and guarded by ants. Having scared off the ants, we will leave the aphids without protection, and their natural enemies will destroy them. You can drive ants away from the plant using Phenaksin powder.

Folk remedies

You can fight aphids without the use of chemicals. A small number of pests can be destroyed by mechanical removal of insects, removing them with a damp cloth. You can cut the shoots inhabited by aphids.

You can destroy the aphid colony by spraying the pests with soapy water - a grated piece of laundry soap is dissolved in 10 liters of hot water. Rose bushes are treated with a cooled solution.

An effective method of destroying aphids with improvised means can be recognized as an infusion of wood ash. A glass of ash is added to a bucket of hot water. Insist for a day, stirring occasionally. Plants are treated with strained infusion.

Hot weather with low air humidity leads to the appearance of a grayish-brown coating on the wrong side of the leaves of the rose. These are traces of the appearance of thrips. Insects at any age suck out cell sap. At first, yellowish or colorless spots or strokes can be seen on the leaves. The number and size of the spots increase and merge together. Holes from the dead part appear on the damaged part. Leaves turn brown and die. The formed buds are deformed and fall prematurely. Insects are very mobile and can quickly move from a populated plant to a healthy one.

Sticky secretions of thrips accumulate on the surface of damaged plants, on which soot fungus multiplies.

As polyphages, insects that can settle on any plant, thrips can spread viruses that are dangerous for plants.

Prevention

It is possible to prevent the appearance of a pest in closed ground by maintaining high air humidity, regularly spraying plants, periodically washing them with a shower.

Regular inspections of plants to detect the pest will also help to notice and start pest control in a timely manner.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

Drugs such as Actelik, Confidor, Inta-Vir, Fitoverm, Agravertin or Vertimek will help to cope with thrips on roses. These drugs are diluted and used according to the instructions attached to them. Multiplicity of treatments at least 2 times with an interval of 7-10 days. The first treatment will destroy adult insects, and subsequent larvae that appear later.

Folk remedies

You can detect and reduce the number of pests by using yellow or blue paper strips covered with a sticky substance, hung among roses. The thrips attracted by these flowers stick to the stripes.

Before using non-chemical products, it is necessary to increase the humidity of the air by washing the plant with a shower.

You can destroy the pest at the initial stage with a solution of laundry soap or infusion of ash. The alkali contained in the solutions destroys pests at a certain stage of development.

Home remedies can kill small colonies of pests. Heavily infected bushes should be treated only with systemic chemicals that penetrate the cell sap.

Decoctions of various plants, such as mustard, tobacco, celandine, capsicum, yarrow, will help to cope with thrips.

A decoction of marigolds. An infusion of marigold flowers can destroy thrips. In 1 liter of water, boil for 1-2 minutes 50-60g of crushed flowers. The resulting broth insist 3 days. Strained broth is sprayed with infected plants.

Infusion of garlic. 3-5 crushed garlic cloves are infused for a day in 250 ml of hot water. Strain the infusion and pour into the sprayer.

You can treat indoor roses for thrips as follows: chopped garlic cloves are placed in a pot, near the stem and the entire plant is covered with polyethylene. In a few hours, the pests die.

The most common pest found on roses is the spider mite. It is this pest that most often causes the weakening of the plant. Leaves fall on the affected bushes, the immunity of the rose weakens, the bush becomes vulnerable to infectious diseases.

The spider mite is a very small insect, less than 2mm in size. Microscopic dimensions make it unobtrusive. Insects that form colonies of less than 100 individuals are not dangerous for the plant. But a feature of the pest is its rapid reproduction and colonization of neighboring plants.

The food for the tick is cell sap, which the pests draw out during the period of active growth. The rose bush is weakening and depleted. This pest is especially dangerous for young plantings, in which the root system is weak.

The pest lives on the inside of the leaves, forming a dense cobweb in which it lives. By this sign, you can easily guess the presence of a tick.

Prevention

Preventive measures to prevent the spread of the tick begin in the fall. With the onset of a cold snap, the pest moves to fallen leaves for wintering. A thorough cleaning and burning of leaves at the end of the season will reduce the number of insects in the next year and reduce the foci of fungal infections.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

Features of the development of the tick are the rapid change of generations and the development of immunity to poisons. This suggests that in order to destroy the pest colony, the plant will need to be treated at least three times, after 3-6 days.

When choosing a drug, you need to pay attention to the active substance. The best results were given by such drugs:

"Sunmite", the active substance is pyridaben;
Flumite, the active substance is flufenzine;
"Floromite", the active substance is biphenazate;
"Oberon", the active ingredient is spiromesifen;
"Nisoran", the active substance is hexythiazox;
"Apollo" The active substance is clofentezin.

The fight against spider mites using biological products

Such drugs, getting into the digestive system of an insect, block the work of vital organs, causing the death of the pest at the mobile stages of development. Biological products act only on a narrow range of pests, without harming beneficial insects.

When using biopreparations, it is necessary to remember that

Ticks will die from such drugs in 8-12 hours.
The action of biological products does not apply to tick eggs. Processing is carried out 3 or 4 times.
Prepared solutions are stored for no more than an hour.
You must strictly follow the instructions for using the product.

The best biological products that destroy the spider mite:

"Agravertin",
"Kleschevit",
"Akarin"
"Fitoverm",
"Vertimek",
Aktofit.

Folk recipes for the destruction of spider mites

Dandelion infusion. 500 g of chopped greens insist in 10 liters of water for 4 hours. Several treatments will destroy the spider mite colonies.
Infusion of calendula, prepared in the proportion of 400 g of flowering plants per 4 liters of water and infused for 5 days, will not yield to dandelion.
Datura. A decoction of 1 kg of dry raw materials or 3 kg of fresh and 10 liters of boiling water. Chilled broth poison ticks no worse than chemistry. An infusion of 100 g of dry grass and 1 liter of water is kept for a day and sprayed.
Celandine . Just a pinch of dry grass, brewed in boiling water and a little infused, will become a deadly weapon against the spider web pest.
Onion and garlic. 200 g of husk is poured with a bucket of water for a day, then the greens are sprayed.
Yarrow. 500 g of dried plants are brewed with boiling water and diluted to 10 liters of water.

The scale insect is considered one of the most difficult pests to remove. The body of an adult pest is covered with a shell that protects the scale from external influences, including the action of chemicals. The pest appears on weakened plants that lacked care, watering and fertilizer.

The scale insect sucks the juice of the plant, releasing a sticky substance, by which the presence of the pest on the rose is detected. On sticky secretions, soot fungus quickly multiplies.

The insect looks like scales on shoots and leaves

Prevention

When covering roses for the winter, be sure to leave gaps for ventilation. After removing the shelter, the bushes are pruned. Regular preventive inspections of the bushes will allow timely detection of the pest and treatment. Frequent spraying of bushes with water will help to contain the spread of the pest.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

You can destroy the scale insect on roses with the help of broad-spectrum insecticides, such as:

Actellik. Effective product suitable for indoor and outdoor use. The solution can be used to treat plants, or you can water the ground around the plantings. The exposure time is from several minutes to several hours. The protective effect lasts up to twenty days.

The advantages of the drug are recognized as the absence of addiction of the pest to the pesticide, a single treatment is sufficient, perhaps the use of the drug in conjunction with other drugs.

Disadvantages: dangerous for pets and children, unpleasant smell.

Aktara. Suitable for open air and closed ground. The solution is watered into the soil. The poisonous substance penetrates the leaves and shoots, destroying the pest. Advantages: compatible with growth stimulants, pests are not addictive.

Disadvantages: toxicity to insects - pollinators, unpleasant odor, unsuitable for residential premises. Bankol. Can be used both indoors and outdoors. Provides contact.

Advantages: low toxicity to warm-blooded animals, resistance to rain washing, compatible with growth stimulants, odorless.

Disadvantages: Most effective at elevated temperatures, unsuitable for garden use.

Bitoxibacillin. Combines the action of an insecticidal preparation and a bacterial agent. A harmful object is affected through the intestines. After 24 hours, the insect stops feeding, and after 72 hours, mass death of pests occurs.

Bitoxibacillin can be used both indoors and outdoors. The product is non-toxic, odorless. Among the shortcomings - the minimum temperature of use is +18 degrees, re-treatment is necessary.

Folk recipes for the destruction of scale insects

A small number of pests can be mechanically scraped off the plant. A cloth or foam rubber dampened with soapy water is wiped over the damaged parts of the plants.

In the spring, you can spray the bush with a soapy solution with the addition of kerosene or used engine oil (5-6 drops per 1 liter of liquid). An insect covered with an oil film will not be able to breathe.

Another way to kill the pest is to use vodka or an infusion of garlic. These liquids, applied to gauze, wipe the shoots and leaves inhabited by the scale insect. The leaves must be thoroughly wiped on both sides, removing insects and a sticky layer. Each sheet is processed separately, while it is necessary to dip the gauze several times in the liquid.

Garlic tincture is prepared from 5 crushed medium cloves of garlic and a glass of warm water. The mixture is infused in a warm place for several hours. Filter and use after treating the plant with a soapy solution that removes sticky deposits.

Good results are obtained by cleaning the surface of the leaves with a weak solution of vinegar.

Protecting plants from insect pests: video

Gnawing pests

Gnawing pests - beetles, leaf-cutting wasps, caterpillars, sawflies damage leaf plates, shoots, buds outside, stamens and pistils inside the flower. As a result, growth slows down, the plant weakens, the number of flowers decreases.

Another type of pests are miners. They eat away the inner tissues of the leaf, leaving the veins and outer integument intact.

caterpillars

Most often, caterpillars damage rose bushes planted in a shady area or next to deciduous trees. Hatched from eggs in early spring, young caterpillars descend from the trees and nibble the leaves of the buds on the bushes. From the eaten buds, damaged flowers bloom, young leaves stop developing. You can collect caterpillars by hand only if there are few of them. A large number of pests can only be controlled by spraying. In the arsenal of a large number of chemicals and decoctions of herbs.

Prevention

As a preventive measure, it can be advised in late autumn, after the leaves have fallen, to collect mummified fruits and dried leaves tied with cobwebs from fruit trees. Pest eggs hibernate in them. Egg clutches on branches and in bark folds can be destroyed by mechanical cleaning.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

Caterpillars can be destroyed with broad-spectrum insecticides - Aktelik, Alatar, Bankol, Inta-Vir, Iskra.

Good results are obtained by the treatment of plantings with biopreparations Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocid, Dendrobacillin.

All preparations must be diluted in accordance with the instructions, used on the day of preparation. During spraying, protective equipment is required.

Folk recipes for the destruction of caterpillars

To destroy caterpillars with non-chemical means, use onion peel, chamomile grass, burdock, tomato or potato tops, tansy or yarrow. 1 kilogram of dry raw materials is poured into 10 liters of water, insisted for a day. The strained solution is brought to 10 liters. Green or laundry soap is added to the resulting infusion to improve adhesion.

Vinegar essence, added in the amount of 1 tbsp to a bucket of water, will help scare away butterflies that lay eggs.

100 g of dry mustard is diluted in 10 liters of water and infused for 2-3 hours. The mixture is filtered and used for spraying. Caterpillars that have tasted leaves with such a seasoning quickly die.

The appearance of this pest is noticeable immediately - carved semicircles appear along the edges of the leaves on the rose bush. Such damage does not cause much harm, but the nutrition of the bush worsens, and the appearance of the plant also becomes worse. Cut pieces of bee leaves - leaf cutters are used to create their nests.

Prevention

To prevent the appearance of such pests, you can remove compound weeds such as thistles or thistles on the site, on which the bees arrange their nests.

Fighting methods

Harm leaf-cutting bees cause minimal harm and only to the appearance of the bush. There is no need to spray the bushes with pesticides. To save the leaves, you can cover the bushes with a net. You can use preparations used in the vineyards of Otos, Super Fas, Adamant. A greater effect will be obtained if they are used late in the evening.

Gluttonous beetle of golden-green coloring up to 20 mm in size.

Smaller, up to 12 mm, but no less voracious hairy, black beetle.

Both of these beetles actively feed from May to August on roses and other flowers. Grown up females lay eggs in the soil at the beginning of summer, from which larvae hatch by the end of the season, which pupate. Before spring, the larvae become adult beetles and start flying the next summer.

You can fight these beetles only by mechanical collection and physical destruction of the pest. In the morning, when the beetles are motionless, they are easy to collect from the flowers. You can hang traps with fermented compote or jam in the flower garden. You can protect the bushes with covering material.

The appearance of caterpillars in the garden, folding leaves into cigars, is a common occurrence. Leaf rollers on roses are less common, but they cause serious harm. Rose leaflets are inconspicuous butterflies with a wingspan of up to 22 mm. Spotted wings are dark brown or golden ocher with wavy stripes and spots.

Leaf rollers hibernate in cracks in the bark of trunks and branches. They return to activity in mid-spring. This coincides in terms with the isolation of buds on late varieties of apple trees. Young caterpillars eat fresh leaves, damage buds, eating away petals, pistils and stamens in them.

Older caterpillars roll leaves into tubes, damage ovaries and fruits, penetrating into the seed chambers. A month later, at the feeding site, the caterpillars become pupae. Most often this occurs in the tubules of the leaves. At the end of July, adult butterflies fly out. Already after 5 days they lay eggs, up to 250 pieces each individual. Eggs overwinter, withstanding up to 27 degrees below zero. Stronger frosts destroy up to 90% of overwintering forms.

Prevention

Cleaning lagging bark in the fall, whitewashing the trunks.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

With a large population of bushes with caterpillars, they are destroyed by systemic preparations Aktara, Alfatsin, Fastak.

Folk recipes for the destruction of leaflets

A small number of leaf rollers can be destroyed manually.

You can destroy butterflies by collecting them with your hands from the trunk. You can catch them on fermented compote or kvass.

You can reduce the number of caterpillars by arranging trapping belts. It will be possible to increase their effectiveness if burlap or corrugated paper is impregnated with a pesticide.

Traces of miners

Outwardly, miners look like small flies flying over short distances. Named miners for the ability to make moves in the internal tissues of the sheet. Both larvae and adult insects feed on cell sap. The hatching larvae gnaw passages in the inner tissues of the leaf. The resulting moves impair photosynthesis, weakening the plant.

It is difficult to deal with miners - they are protected by integumentary tissues of the leaf.

Pest control measures:

By chemical means

The use of chemicals is resorted to when 2 or more mine passages are laid on one sheet. In this case, systemic insecticides such as Actellik are used.

Eco-Friendly Methods

It is possible to deal with miners in non-chemical ways when there are few pests. Adult butterflies can be washed off the leaves with a high-pressure jet of water.

Digging the soil in the trunk circle will help reduce the number of pests. Some of the pests are destroyed by birds, the rest will die from frost.

Rose treatment calendar for pests and diseases

A set of products for caring for roses should consist of preparations that allow you to destroy both pests and pathogens.

Means for powdery mildew and spotting: Falcon, Tilt Super-Alto.
Means against downy mildew: Revus, Profit-gold, Thanos, Ridomil-gold, Previkur.
Insecticides: Aktara, Inta-Vir, Iskra.
Means for combating ticks: Vertimek, Fitoverm, Apollo, Sunmite.
Means that improve the adhesion of drugs - liquid, green or laundry soap.

All of these agents can be mixed with each other, increasing their effectiveness.

Approximate list of necessary treatments

With the appearance of the first leaves on the bushes, a mixture is used, consisting of preparations of groups 1,2 and 3. We carry out at least two treatments at intervals of 10-14 days. When a large number of insects appear, we additionally use products from the 3rd group.
Budding time - a mixture of funds 1,2 and 3.
Mid - end of July. A mixture of products from groups 1 and 2. Add drugs from group 3 as needed. Means each time you need to change so that there is no addiction.

Preparations from group 4 (from ticks) are added to the mixture if necessary.

Each time, carrying out processing it is necessary to take into account weather conditions.

We will tell you about pests of roses and how to deal with them.

spider mite

This insect is found in almost every garden and infects any plants: fruit trees, grapes, flowers, berries, vegetables; roses are no exception. Thus, of all insect pests, the spider mite is the most common. It causes the plant to weaken. Because of what, it begins to lose leaves and as a result becomes more vulnerable to diseases.

Sparrows and other birds, for which these insects are food, help to fight many pests in the garden.

The spider mite is a very small insect, so it is very difficult to detect it on a plant. The length of individuals reaches only 2 mm, the largest of them are females. On the leaves, they look like moving black dots. The spider mite has an oval body and 8 legs, which are dotted with numerous bristles. The insect lays eggs that look like a transparent blob that turns creamy when it's time to hatch.

The spider mite lives in a colony, the number of which can be more than 100 individuals. Most often, the pest can be found on the underside of the leaves of the plant, where a thick cobweb is formed, under which small insects run.

To permanently get rid of the spider mite, it is necessary to fight it at all stages of its life cycle. The spider mite feeds on green leaves of plants, so it will live in the garden and breed almost all summer. For this reason, it is very difficult to get rid of it.

When cold weather sets in, the spider mite moves into the fallen leaves and hibernates in it, which is why it is so important to carry out the autumn cleaning of the leaves in the garden, and then burn it. So you can get rid of hidden pests, as well as destroy the spores of many fungal diseases. If the foliage is not removed, then in the spring, with the onset of heat, the spider mite will crawl out of its winter home and again settle on green leaves, causing harm to plants.

When the number of spider mites is small, you don't have to worry. However, this insect multiplies rapidly, which leads to detrimental consequences. The spider mite makes its home on the leaves of roses and feeds on their juice. When the plant is in the stage of active growth, it needs to strengthen the roots, but if it loses the nutrient juices from the leaves, it quickly weakens, so it has to make up for their loss to the detriment of the roots. Dots appear on the leaves affected by the spider mite, which turn yellow and fall off.

The spider mite affects not only the leaves, but also the stems, as well as the buds of roses. If the summer is dry and the plant lacks moisture, then the damage from pests becomes even greater. Young seedlings are especially affected by exhaustion. It is very important to control the number of poutine mites, otherwise entire rose bushes can die.

Prevention. When the time of active growth begins in newly planted seedlings and bushes, regular watering is recommended, as this increases the protection of the plant from spider mite damage. It is also required to treat the bushes with soapy water - this will protect the leaves not only from spider mites, but also from other insect pests. The use of broad-spectrum preparations, on the contrary, should be avoided, because in this way insects that are natural enemies of the spider mite can be destroyed, as a result of which the invasion of this pest can only intensify. To control the number of spider mites, it is better to abandon the frequent use of drugs that kill the enemies of this insect.

Control measures. Although the spider mite is very small, the harm from it is very great. Due to the size of the pest, it is difficult to notice it on the bush until the web appears and the leaves begin to turn yellow. It is recommended here only to frequently check the underside of the leaves for spider webs. True, it is important to make sure that this is a spider mite, and not its enemy - a spider that catches this pest. In addition to spiders, some bugs and fly larvae help in the fight against spider mites, which do no harm to roses and provide an opportunity to use chemicals less often.

As a rule, the number of spider mites begins to increase after the use of insecticides against other insect pests. In addition, some preparations containing pyrethrins and phosphates increase the level of nitrogen on the leaves, which only benefits spider mites.

If its number is small, then you can get rid of it by washing the leaves with water or acaricides. Chemical preparations against spider mites are recommended only in cases where there is an outbreak of its numbers.

Soap or insecticidal solutions help well, which are recommended to practice in cool weather. When processing, it is necessary to ensure that the drug gets on all the leaves, and especially on their underside. You can also use fitoverm. Re-treatment against spider mites is recommended after 2 weeks.