Method for preparing freshly slaked lime. Safe preparation of lime milk solution

Now, it seems that preparing a mortar for plaster will not be any problem. As an ordinary ordinary person does: he sifts the sand, adds cement, interferes, adds water, interferes again and voila! Ready. And here it is not. True professionals in their field will say that each plastering operation has its own solution. So let's take a look various ways preparation of mortars for the implementation of plastering works, which consist of the following stages: preparation of sand, preparation and application of binders, and then preparation of the mortar.

Astringents

Let's look at the main types of binders. The most commonly used building lime, gypsum, cement or clay mixture.

building lime

It is important that building lime can only harden when oxygen is present. And depending on the degree of preparation, it can be divided into quick-cooked (aka "boiling water") and slaked ("fluff"). Remember! To prepare the solution, you can only use slaked lime, since all solutions are closed with water, and when quicklime interacts with water, a spontaneous process of quenching will begin. Then small unquenched particles may remain in the solution, which interact with air moisture. As a result, the plaster will begin to swell. To extinguish the boil, it is better to use a barrel or box. Quick-extinguishing lime (8 minutes) is poured into a tank with water, which will cover the entire boiling point. When steam appears, add water and mix thoroughly. Medium-extinguishing lime (25 minutes) is poured into a container by a quarter and filled with water up to half. When steam appears, stir the boiling pot and add water. If the lime is slow-extinguishing (from 25 minutes), then pour it into the tank and slightly moisten it with water. Under the influence of water, the material will begin to collapse, and its volume will increase by 2-3 times. Then the temperature of the lime rises, and it begins to "boil".

As soon as cracks appear, start adding water in small portions and slowly mix. In this case, all heavy particles will settle to the bottom of the tank. Then all types of lime are usually diluted with water until a full consistency is obtained, which looks like milk of lime, which must be filtered through a special sieve and poured into a lime slaking pit (pictured above). A day later, pre-sifted sand is poured on top, and then more earth with a total layer of up to 0.5 m.

Important! The boiling point is kept in the pit for at least half a month. Take your time, let the lime completely extinguish. Then the milk "turns" into dough, which has a creamy density.

The next binding element is building plaster used in plastering work as an additive to lime plaster mortar and allowing to increase the quality of the mixture. When diluted with water, the gypsum sets already after five minutes and in 30 minutes it completely hardens. Perhaps, this is actually the only binder of its kind that does not give significant shrinkage and can be used in its pure form.

Say what you like, but cement is considered the most durable binder. A higher brand level means stronger cement. In solutions, m400 is used. The material cures in air and water. Seizes in 15 minutes, and the process itself can be considered completed no later than one day after flooding with water. It becomes completely strong and solid only after half a month.

Clay

Clay is also an astringent, but it is used in plastering adobe and wooden walls or in the construction of stoves.

Fillers

Now it's the turn of the solution fillers. The most famous is sand. But the highest quality sand is river quartz. There are a lot of salts in the sea, but ravine or mountain salts can be mixed with clay. In coarse-grained sand, grains are 2/4 mm, in medium-fraction sand, 0.5/2 mm, and in fine sand, 0.25/0.5 mm. For the implementation of work, it will be better if you use medium, less often coarse-grained. Take small ones only for covering. Sand for mortar must be clean and without any impurities. Therefore, before work, it is important to sift it through a sieve with a cell of 3/4 mm. If you need a lot of plaster mixture, use an inclined sieve. And if the amount of work is small, then take an ordinary box sieve.

What are the solutions: lime, cement, clay and others, more complex in composition. When you make a solution, then try to achieve the optimal proportions of filler and binder. Such mixtures are called normal.

Cement-sand mortar

To make a cement-sand mortar, we need cement, sand and water. Sand is advised to take quarry. After you have selected the sand, it must be prepared and foreign materials removed. We use a sieve for sieving. It is best to take a 3x3 mm sieve for covering 1.5x1.5 mm. To remove clay impurities, it is important to rinse the sand. And how to check the cement for freshness? We take it in our hand and squeeze it: if it leaks out, then it is fresh and meets all the parameters indicated on the label. If it began to clump, then all the basic properties of cement are lost, and then more cement will be needed to prepare the solution. This can be determined empirically.

Cement-lime mortar

Its preparation is almost identical to the preparation of cement mortar. Only, in addition to repeating all the steps, it is still necessary to prepare lime. Lime is diluted to the consistency of milk of lime and filtered through a sieve with cells of 2x2 mm. Then, on the basis of milk of lime, the solution is kneaded and brought to the required consistency by adding water.

Mortar

The preparation of lime mortar has a certain specificity. First you need to prepare everything necessary components. Then, first a certain amount of lime is added, and then sand is added with gradual stirring. Typically, lime mortar is prepared by using one portion of lime and three portions of sand.

Important ! Test the strength of the mortar: Take seven bricks and mortar them into a column, letting them dry. If the mortar holds a pillar of seven bricks, then it is made with high quality.

clay mortar

How to prepare a clay solution? Usually they do this: the clay is soaked until it is completely softened. Then it is filtered through a sieve with 2x2 mm cells, and 2-4 portions of sand are added to this portion, depending on the fat content of the clay.

Lime-gypsum mortar

It is cooked in small portions because it sets within 10-15 minutes. Milk of lime is prepared for the solution, and then gypsum is added to the milk. NOTA BENE!!! And this solution must be used within 10 minutes! It can be prepared using special dry mixes that are diluted with water. For example, this is a simple putty.

The mechanism for preparing various mortars is almost identical, so it will help you how to prepare a cement-sand plaster mortar. We look:

When performing finishing work, there is often a need for plastering various surfaces. It is on their type that the composition of the materials used, the main component of which is lime, depends.
In this article we will tell you how to prepare a lime mortar for plaster in relation to different conditions his works.

Binders and fillers

Let's start with the additives that are needed in mixtures to strengthen and protect the future coating.
They are usually used sand, cement, gypsum or clay. All these additives, except sand, are binding materials.

• Gypsum. It is used as part of a lime-gypsum mortar for plastering cornices, wooden and stone structures. The mixture is prepared in small batches for its rapid production. This is due to the rate of solidification of the solution within 10 minutes. Gypsum differs from other binders by very low shrinkage. Therefore, it is often used in its natural form.

• Cement. When mixed with lime, a solution is obtained that is used for outdoor work and in wet rooms - bathrooms, basements, etc. Due to the fact that cement is a rather expensive material, lime-cement mortars are rarely used when plastering new walls or ceilings. For work, cement M400 is usually used. In 28 days, it gains full strength in solutions. The main application of such mixtures is the repair on the internal and external structures of buildings.

• Clay. As a building material, it is used for processing walls made of wood or stoves. As a filler for lime mixtures, it is needed much less frequently than sand or gypsum. Lime-clay mortar is most suitable for strengthening fragile previous layers of pure clay.

• Sand. Lime finishing mortar with the addition of this component is the most common finishing material. Before preparing the mixture, sand, if it is river, must be washed. The sand brought from the quarry is sieved. River quartz sand is of the highest quality, and ravine or mountain sand contains a lot of clay. There is an excess of salts in sea sand.

In addition to the above additives, catalysts can be added to lime mortars to increase the rate of hardening of mixtures and plasticizers to make it easier to work with the material. Antifreeze additives serve to protect lime coatings in winter.

Proportions and viscosity of solutions

In each type of solution, its components are present in certain proportions.
The lime mortar has a ratio of 1:4, i.e., for 1 hour of lime there are 4 parts of sand. Lime - gypsum mortar, respectively - 3: 1, and lime-cement - 2: 1.
The desired viscosity of the prepared solution is determined quite easily. To do this, it is necessary to try to free the spatula, which is used to mix the mixture, from the solution. If it flows easily from it, the viscosity is low - you need to add a plasticizer. The resistance of the blade to the dense mass of the mixture indicates the need to dilute the solution thinner. A sign of its normal viscosity for good adhesion to the wall is a smoothly flowing thin layer spatula mixture.

lime preparation

Building lime, as the main component of the above solutions, is used only in quenched form. This is necessary to exclude a chemical reaction when mixing solutions with water. Otherwise, unslaked material particles may swell or tear the plaster. To extinguish lime for further use, you need to prepare a box or barrel.

• Quick-extinguishing lime is poured into a container of water with complete immersion. When steam appears, a little more water is added, and then everything is thoroughly mixed. The process takes 8 minutes.

• Medium-extinguishing lime is poured into the container to its ¼. Then the barrel is half filled with water. When steam appears, the actions are similar. The reaction takes about 25 minutes.

• Slow-extinguishing lime after it is backfilled is only moistened with water. In this case, the material begins to break down with a threefold increase in volume and an increase in its temperature. Reaction time - from 25 minutes and above.

After the initial slaking, lime must be diluted with water to the texture of "milk of lime". Then it is poured into a specially prepared pit, filtering through a sieve. After a day, sand is poured into the pit on lime and a half-meter layer of earth is poured on top. For the final extinguishing of the material should take 15-20 days. During this time, the “milk of lime” turns into a dough with a creamy consistency. Now you can safely collect ready-made lime from the pit and prepare any kind of solutions. So, let's start doing it.

Preparation of solutions

• Mortar. The preparation of lime mortar is carried out as follows. A small part of the sand is poured into the dough obtained from slaked lime and water is added. Then everything gets mixed up. Then the rest of the sand is poured little by little into the mixture until its normal fat content is obtained. This indicator in any batch depends on the ratio of binders and filler. In our case, the filler is sand. The increased fat content of the solution is determined by its strong adhesion to the mixing blade. Lime mortar, the proportions of which are indicated above, can be prepared with a margin of several days. To bring the thickened mixture to working condition it is enough to mix it with the addition of water.

• Lime-gypsum mortar. To obtain it, gypsum is mixed with water to a creamy state. Then lime mortar is laid out in the resulting dough and everything is thoroughly mixed again. The proportions of gypsum dough and lime mortar are 1:4. The prepared mixture is used in the decoration of dry rooms with stone, wooden and plaster walls. Its contact with concrete is not recommended due to the resulting chemical reaction, leading to the destruction of the main surface.

• Cement-lime mortar. This mixture is prepared in this way. First, the lime dough is diluted with water to the state of milk and filtered through a sieve. Then the sand must be kneaded with cement, add all this to the milk of lime and mix again. Maximum strength solution is achieved by using cement M400 and its ratio with lime paste and sand as 1:0.2:3.5.

• Lime-clay mortar. The procedure for preparing this solution is as follows. First, clay is mixed with lime dough, and then sand and water are added to the mixture. The proportions of dough, clay and sand are observed as 1:0.4:5. The solution is used in dry rooms.

With the use of solutions based on lime, both issues of aesthetic finishing and purely technical ones are solved - frost resistance and moisture resistance of certain surfaces.
Lime mortar, the composition of which implies plasticity, availability and environmental friendliness, gives it an undoubted advantage over other materials in the quality of work.

That's all science. Good luck, choose the best!

Solutions based on cement, gypsum or clay with the addition of lime have been known for a long time. With the help of it, plastic and inexpensive compositions are obtained, which are used both for external and internal works. In this article we will tell you how to make milk from lumpy lime, in what proportions to make a mixture for plastering and whitewashing, and also consider the application technology.

What is lime plaster

The addition of lime to solutions can significantly increase the plasticity and crack resistance of the plaster. It becomes much easier to work with it, it does not dry out so quickly, it easily sticks even to wood, and the surface is smoother, without defects. It is also an excellent protection against mold and mildew. Another undeniable advantage is its environmental friendliness - unlike synthetic additives, lime is absolutely harmless.

Lime is widely used in construction as a plasticizer.. However, when plastering facades, it should be noted that it can only be used in areas with a dry climate. Such solutions are not recommended for use in rooms with high (over 60%) humidity.

Lime plaster is considered to be warmer and more vapor-permeable, that is, "breathable", and it is much easier to remove it from the walls in case of repair than, for example, ordinary cement plaster. But excess lime can lead to a weakening of the surface strength. That is why it should be added in moderation, strictly adhering to the proportions.

As you can see, lime plaster has many advantages. The disadvantages include not such high strength as that of cement compositions. It is also not recommended to use it in wet rooms and for laying tiles.

But special strength from such a solution is not required. After all, the purpose of plastering is to level the surface and cover up small cracks. A stronger mortar is required when laying. However, in this case, according to SNiP, it is allowed to add a small amount of lime dough or clay to it to increase plasticity.

When extinguishing lime, be extremely careful - splashes of hot mixture can cause burns. Harmful effect It also has the smallest lime dust that can be deposited on the mucous membrane. Therefore, protective clothing, gloves and a respirator should be used when working.

Preparation of milk of lime (slaking)

Lump quicklime

Quicklime (calcium oxide) is not suitable for plastering or masonry mortar, because when interacting with water, a large amount of heat and water vapor is released. In this case, the formation of alkali Ca (OH) 2 occurs. Here it is needed for the preparation of plaster. Slaked lime (fluff) is bought in the form of a powder or prepared by hand.

Ready fluff

The extinguishing process is quite simple.. First you need to make milk of lime. Add to a bucket or bath:

• clean cold water;
• lumpy lime in a ratio of 1:1 by weight of water.

Lime should be added gradually, in small pieces, constantly stirring the solution. Otherwise upper layer, having reacted, forms a hydroxide on the surface, blocking the access of water to the lower part of the container, and the material will not completely react.

In the process of transition of caustic lime CaO into fluff, that is, calcium hydroxide Ca (OH) 2, it heats up strongly, and then crumbles into a white dry powder. It can be used in mortars for masonry no earlier than after 14 days, in a mixture for plastering - after 30 days.

After the lime has completely reacted, milk of lime is prepared from it.. To prepare a 10% solution, take 1 kg of fluff and 9 liters of water. Sometimes, for better adhesion, up to 1% liquid soap is added to the composition.

Since lump lime may contain unburned or burnt pieces that cannot be extinguished, therefore, after thorough mixing, it is advisable to strain the solution through a sieve.

Please note that the recommendations for kneading plaster indicate most often not milk of lime, but dough. In industrial conditions, it is made by settling milk of lime. At home, such a dough can be made by also removing excess water after precipitation. However, it is worth remembering that it will be difficult to filter a thick solution.

Types of lime plaster

With the addition of lime, various types of mortars are prepared, including cement, gypsum and clay. We give in detail the recipes for their preparation.

Lime-sand

This type of plaster is considered an inexpensive analogue cement mixture and is most often used for finishing utility rooms. The proportions in this case are similar:

• for the preparation of a primer solution, the ratio of lime and sand is 1: 2;
• when sprayed on the walls, it is equal to 1: 2;
• for use as the main finishing coating 1:5.

Before preparing lime-sand plaster, the components are mixed dry, then water is added. Better to use pure river sand, sieved before mixing.

This mixture hardens slowly, so it is allowed to cover it with polyethylene and use it on the second day. She will not lose her properties.

Lime-cement

Such plaster is strong enough, therefore it is widely used for facade and interior work. The ratio of the components of the mixture varies depending on the goals:

• for spraying 1:0.4:4 (cement, lime paste, sand);
• when used as a primer: 1:1:4;
• for finishing coatings: 1:1.5:1.5.

There are also ready-made dry mixes on sale, for example, the Weber Vetonit 414 brand. It is suitable for any surface, for interior and exterior use. The plaster is reinforced with microfiber, so it hardens without shrinkage, and can be used as a base or leveling layer. Vetonite consumption - 1.4 kg / m2 with a thickness of 1 mm.

Lime-gypsum

The addition of gypsum to the sand-lime mortar allows you to get a more even and durable surface and speed up the hardening process. Such a solution fits well even on a stone and wooden surface.

The proportions for breeding are as follows:

• when sprayed (lime paste, sand, gypsum): 1:0.5:2;
• for use as a base coat: 1:1.5:2;
• as a primer: 1:1:2.

It is more difficult to work with such compounds, since the solution hardens very quickly. Therefore, it is necessary to cook it in small quantities.

Lime-clay

This plaster is used infrequently, mainly for finishing huts, stoves and fireplaces. It is prepared in this way:

• primer proportions (lime paste, clay, sand) 2:1.5:2;
• for kneading as a coating 2:1:3.5;
• for spraying 2:1:3.

Clay for kneading should be taken with medium fat content. If it is skinny and the solution does not stick to the trowel, then you need to increase its amount in the mixture. With excessively oily clay, on the contrary, increase the percentage of sand.

Table of consumption of materials for plastering 1 m2 of surface

Plaster with lime mortar

Wall preparation

If you are not doing repairs in a new building with bare walls, then you need to remove all the old finishes. Old wallpaper is moistened with water and removed with a scraper or a wire brush. If it is necessary to completely remove the old layer of whitewash, then the surface can be moistened with a liquid paste. After it dries, the whitewash, together with the glue, can be easily removed with a spatula.

Large cracks are expanded with a grinder or a knife, dusted, primed, and then covered with a durable cement mortar. Their locations are glued with sickle tape.

For reliable fixing of plaster on concrete, brick walls with an ax or a perforator, notches are made about 10 cm wide. Wooden walls are upholstered with shingles - strips of wood. It is fixed with nails, and it is not necessary to drive them deep - part of the nail must be bent. You can replace shingles with a metal mesh stuffed onto the surface.

The walls must be primed before applying the first layer. The primer will glue the remaining dust and increase the adhesion of the plaster.

When perfect evenness is required, guide beacons are used. They are attached to the wall with a small amount of putty, then leveled. The distance between the beacon profiles should be 20 cm less than the length of the rule with which the mixture will be leveled during plastering.

Applying plaster

Consider the technology of plastering walls with your own hands, without using machine application. To obtain a high-quality surface with lime plaster, three layers are needed:

Advice! Since lime mortar sets more slowly, it is not recommended to apply too thick a primer layer, because it can “float”. If necessary, it is applied again with a second or third layer, drying each for about a day. It is necessary to overwrite such a surface only after the plaster has completely dried.

If after some time repair of the plaster is required, then it can be done in the same sequence as the initial application: clean the chips and cracks in the finish; prime the wall; apply the mixture in several layers; wipe after dry.

Whitewashing with lime

Lime mortar is also a cheap material for whitewashing ceilings and walls. Also this good antiseptic, which is used in utility rooms, vegetable pits. Whitewashing trees protects them from pests and diseases.

Properly prepared whitewash covers the surface well and holds firmly.

The consumption of the prepared mixture will depend on the surface of the walls. On a flat wall or ceiling, 0.5 liters of whitewash per 1 m2 will go. For raw brickwork consumption will be 1 l / m2. It will also depend on the application method. Most economical option- spraying with, for example, an airbrush or hand sprayer.

Lime-based plaster is an inexpensive option for finishing walls and ceilings. The mixture is easy to prepare with your own hands. It easily lays down on walls, creating protection against a mold and rotting. It is worth remembering that cement is added to the composition for wet rooms.

We hope you found something useful in this article. Leave your comments and questions below in the comments.

Like many great discoveries, the use of copper sulfate to treat plants was made possible by chance. For the first time, the positive effect of copper compounds on plants, in this case potatoes, was noted in Ireland. From the then still unknown disease, especially in wet weather, plantings of potatoes died everywhere, and only near copper plants did this crop continue to grow normally. Observant gardeners began to use in the processing of this crop the waste resulting from the production of copper, saving crops from Irish bad weather.

The second chance meeting with the result of a chemical reaction between copper sulphate and lime took place at the end of the 19th century in the French province of Bordeaux. In the fight against mildew, which was destroying the vineyard in the bud, one of the winegrowers, regretting throwing away the remains of solutions of copper sulphate and lime, with which he processed the bushes, poured them into one container and sprinkled the grapes. The result was very favorable.

FROM light hand winegrower, the observation of the Irish gardeners and the tenacity of the French botanist P. Millard, appeared to be genius simple, but effective remedy to combat diseases of almost all vegetable and horticultural berry crops. The number of diseases that Bordeaux liquid protects plants from is about 25 items. Mainly infectious diseases fungal-bacterial nature.

The use of Bordeaux liquid on garden plot

How to avoid mistakes when preparing Bordeaux liquid?

For more than a hundred years, copper sulfate and lime have been used to prepare a solution called Bordeaux liquid. This treatment solution has not received a single negative review and is successfully used both on an industrial scale and in private households. In fairness, it should be noted that notes about low efficiency or, conversely, death from burns of agricultural crops often flash. Why do such cases occur?

It is very likely that the following mistakes were made in the preparation of Bordeaux liquid:

• the ratio of components is broken;
• each component is incorrectly diluted;
• incorrectly carried out the connection of the components into a single solution;
• by accident or due to ignorance, organophosphates, karbofos and other alkaline or acidic preparations incompatible with Bordeaux liquid were added to the tank mixture.

What you need to know for the correct use of Bordeaux mixture?

When buying a ready-made mixture for making Bordeaux liquid, you need to pay attention to the label and ask the seller what it means:

Sometimes the formula CuSO₄ is written on the label without explanation. It is known that copper sulphate is a white substance. Copper sulphate substance of blue or of blue color, soluble in water. The formula of copper sulphate is different, it is represented by CuSO₄ * 5h3O pentahydrate. In a tight package, the color is not visible, and there is no verbal written explanation on the label.

What is packed in the second package is also unknown. Only the designation is written - lime. What kind of lime? It must be indicated whether it is slaked or not. It should be written: lumpy quicklime, ground quicklime or boiled ground quicklime. If fluff is written, then the lime has passed the quenching procedure. It is enough to dilute fluff lime in excess water and get the desired milk of lime.

To obtain high-quality Bordeaux liquid, milk of lime is prepared from freshly slaked lime. Therefore, lime is often written on the label, implying (guess, they say, yourself) a boiling pot to be quenched.

It should be noted that when preparing a solution of Bordeaux liquid from quicklime, the mass (weight) of the latter must be greater than copper sulfate. This is due to the presence of insoluble impurities in the source material or poor quality lime-boiler due to prolonged storage in unsuitable conditions. If fluffy lime is of high quality, freshly prepared, the ratio of components by weight is taken 1:1. It is the uncertainty in the quality of this component that can explain the predominant amount of lime on the labels of the mixture sold.

Copper sulfate pentahydrate (Copper sulfate) for obtaining Bordeaux liquid

Cooking Bordeaux liquid correctly

A brief introduction to the components of the Bordeaux mixture

Bordeaux mixture consists of 2 components:

Salt of copper sulfate, in other names - copper sulfate. Copper sulphate, or crystalline hydrate (pentahydrate) of copper sulphate (CuSO₄ * 5h3O) - this substance is represented by blue-blue crystals, highly soluble in water to obtain an acidic environment (pH

Not to be confused with copper sulphate. Copper sulphate (CuSO₄) is a colorless chemical, hygroscopic, easily forms blue or blue crystalline hydrates. Crystal hydrates are highly soluble in water.

Calcium oxide, or quicklime, is one of the main oxides. His chemical formula CaO.

When preparing Bordeaux liquid, the third component is water:

Calcium oxide (CaO) reacts vigorously with water. As a result, calcium hydroxide Ca(OH)2 is formed and heat is released. This reaction is called lime slaking.

Calcium hydroxide is called slaked lime, or fluff lime. The substance is a strong base, so its solutions are alkaline. Fluff is a white powder, poorly soluble in water. When mixed with a large amount of water, it forms a suspension or suspension of calcium hydroxide in water, commonly called milk of lime (milk).

Preparing dishes and other supplies

For the preparation of Bordeaux liquid, it is necessary to prepare enameled containers, without chips and cracks, wooden, glass, clay. Use plastic, iron, aluminum cookware Not recommended. When dissolved, a reaction occurs with the release of a large amount of heat (lime slaking), with the formation of an acidic solution, which can react with a galvanized or iron container (with the dissolution of copper sulfate).

To dissolve the components of Bordeaux liquid, you need:

• 2 buckets for 5 and 10 liters;
• a piece of gauze and a sieve for filtering solutions;
• wooden stick for stirring solutions;
• litmus graduated paper strips or an iron nail to determine the neutrality of the resulting solution;
• kitchen scales, if the solution of Bordeaux liquid is prepared independently.

Step-by-step instructions for preparing a solution of Bordeaux liquid

In the store you can buy a ready-made mixture, packaged in separate bags with quicklime (CaO) and copper sulfate (CuSO₄ * 5h3O). The seller needs to clarify which components are in the mixture being sold.

Dissolving copper sulfate:

• Pour 1-2 liters into a 5 liter bucket hot water;
• carefully pour out a bag or a weight measure of copper sulfate.
• mix thoroughly with a wooden stick until completely dissolved;
• add to the solution gradually, constantly stirring, up to 5 liters cold water.

In table. 1 shows weight measures for the preparation of Bordeaux liquid of different percentage concentrations using quicklime and slaked lime

Set aside the prepared copper sulfate solution. If interested, you can determine the acidity of the solution with a graduated litmus strip (it should be less than 7 units).

We proceed to the preparation of lime milk (slaked lime solution). Slaked lime - strong base, has an alkaline reaction. When the solutions are combined, slaked lime neutralizes the acidity of the copper sulfate solution. If this procedure is carried out poorly, the plants will get burned during processing and may even die (especially young ones).

We extinguish lime:

• pour 2 liters of cold (not hot) water into a 10 liter enameled bucket;
• we fall asleep a measure of quicklime;
• mix thoroughly while extinguishing;
• if slaked lime is used, we simply prepare a solution of the appropriate concentration (Table 1);
• at the end of the reaction, slaked lime or calcium hydroxide Ca (OH) 2 is formed;
• add 3 liters of cold water to the cooled solution of slaked lime while stirring; in total there should be 5 liters of milk of lime.

The prepared solution of Bordeaux mixture

Table 1 Weight quantities of components for the preparation of 10 liters of Bordeaux mixture

Attention! All protective measures should be taken, since the lime slaking reaction proceeds with the release of heat. Hot drops are sprayed. You need to protect your eyes and hands.

Let's start mixing

• Both solutions must be cold before mixing.
• From a 5 liter bucket, pour a solution of copper sulfate in a thin stream, stirring constantly, into a solution of milk of lime (not vice versa).
• We get 10 liters of a mixture of 2 solutions.
• Checking acidity. If the solution of Bordeaux liquid is prepared correctly, an iron nail lowered into it will not be covered with a copper coating, and a litmus strip will show 7 units.

If the solution of Bordeaux liquid turned out to be acidic, it is neutralized with lime milk (prepared additionally) to a neutrality pH = 7-7.2 units.

With additional deoxidation of the prepared solution, it is already possible to pour milk of lime into the solution of Bordeaux liquid, but still in a thin stream, constantly stirring with a wooden stick.

Attention! In order not to unnecessarily dilute the solution with water, additionally prepared milk of lime should be 10-15% concentration.

The resulting neutral solution of Bordeaux liquid is filtered through a fine sieve or cheesecloth, folded in 4-5 layers.

The prepared solution of Bordeaux liquid is not subject to long-term storage. After 1-3 hours of settling of the prepared solution, the plants are processed.

The rest of the Bordeaux liquid can be stored for no more than a day by adding 5-10 g of sugar per 10 liters of solution.

The principle of action of Bordeaux liquid

A solution of copper sulfate is a fungicide. The solution is in good contact with plant organs (leaves, bark). A properly prepared solution is practically not washed off by rain.

Copper connections as part of the Bordeaux liquid, they are poorly soluble in water and, when spraying plants, they settle in the form of microscopic crystals on the leaves and stems of plants. Copper ions destroy the protective shells of spores and the mycelium itself. The fungus dies. The aggressive effect of copper on trees and shrubs softens the solution of lime in the composition of the preparation and at the same time it acts as an adhesive.

The effectiveness of Bordeaux liquid increases with finely dispersed spraying of plants.

The duration of the fungicide is up to 1 month. Effectively suppresses causative agents of pathogenic microflora of a fungal-microbial nature.

The use of Bordeaux liquid

Be careful!

• Large drops of Bordeaux liquid are phytotoxic to plants, especially during the growing season.
• The solution of Bordeaux liquid flowing down to the soil from the leaves contributes to the accumulation of copper in it, which negatively affects the cultivated crops (causes the leaves and ovaries to fall off).
• Repeated use of Bordeaux liquid without observing the recommended terms for processing plants during the growing season can cause their death.
• It makes no sense to add soap to the Bordeaux liquid. From its addition, contact with plants will only decrease.
• Bordeaux liquid is incompatible in tank mixtures with other drugs. The exception is colloidal sulfur.

The period of treatment of plants with Bordeaux liquid

Solutions of Bordeaux liquid 2-3% concentration are sprayed with perennial horticultural crops:

• before bud break (approximately in February-March);
• late autumn after complete leaf fall (approximately October - early November);
• during the growing season, starting from the phase of the green cone of perennial crops and planting garden plants, spraying with a 1-0.5% solution is carried out according to the recommendations;
• untimely treatment of plants is performed with a clear disease due to weather conditions, epiphytotic infection.

Protecting plants from diseases with Bordeaux mixture

When processing plants, copper in a solution of Bordeaux liquid is a poison for fungal diseases, and lime is a neutralizer to relieve the burn effect of acid on a plant.

Table 2 lists crops and diseases. The main phases of treatment with Bordeaux liquid are described. A more detailed description of diseases and protection measures can be found on the relevant websites.

Table 2. Protection of horticultural and vegetable crops from diseases using Bordeaux mixture

Culture groups	Diseases	Processing period
Perennial fruit crops
Pome fruits: pears, apples, quince	Fruit rot, leaf rust, scab, phyllostictosis, moniliosis, black cancer, powdery mildew, leaf spot.	Before the start of the spring growing season and after the leaves have completely fallen off, the plants are treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. During the growing season: in the budding phase and after flowering, spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. The rest of the time - as needed.
Stone fruits: cherries, sweet cherries, plums, cherry plums, peaches, apricots	Coccomycosis, leaf curl, moniliosis, clasterosporiasis.	Before the beginning of the spring growing season and after the complete fall of the leaves, the plants are treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture. From the phase of bud break to the beginning of flowering and in the phase of the beginning of the growth of the ovaries, they switch to spraying with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. Apricots and cherries are highly sensitive to Bordeaux liquid (deformation and cracking of fruits are observed). They are best treated with a 0.5% solution of Bordeaux liquid. Stop processing 2 weeks before harvest.
Berry crops
Grape	Mildew (downy mildew), anthracnose, black rot, rubella, cercosporosis, melanosis.	The bushes are treated with Bordeaux liquid in the leaf deployment phase and during the growing season 1 time in 2-3 weeks in order to prevent other concomitant infections. For more details, see the article "Protection of grapes from fungal diseases"
Gooseberries, raspberries, currants, blackberries, strawberries and strawberries	Leaf spot, leaf rust, anthracnose, septoria, black rot.	Berries have a shorter growing season, therefore, during the season, 2-3 treatments are carried out with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid before bud break and before flowering begins. The third treatment is carried out mainly after harvest. For more details, see the article "Summer diseases of berries and fruit crops"
Basic garden crops
Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, beans, tomatoes, cabbage, onions, garlic, peppers, eggplants, potatoes	Powdery mildew and downy mildew, root and root rot of seedlings and adult plants, Fusarium wilt, anthracnose, late blight.	Vegetable non-seedling crops are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid for the first time in order to prevent fungal diseases in the phase of mass shoots. The second spraying is carried out when deploying 2 - 3 true leaves. On seedlings, the first spraying with Bordeaux liquid is carried out 2 weeks after planting. For the treatment of plants, a 0.5-1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used. In the subsequent growing season, spraying with Bordeaux liquid is carried out according to the recommendations and at the first manifestations of the disease.

Dear readers! The article focuses on the correct preparation of Bordeaux mixture, which determines the effectiveness of the drug on fungal diseases berry and garden and vegetable crops. More extensive information on the use of Bordeaux mixture for the purpose of protecting plants, related to their characteristics of growth and development, formation and harvesting, can be obtained in the articles on the care of specific plants on our website.

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Bordeaux liquid. Preparation and application, for which diseases to use

In the country there are always pests and diseases

plants that need to be disposed of promptly. Bordeaux liquid, the use of which is massive among summer residents, can easily cope with many of them.

Now it remains to find out how to prepare Bordeaux liquid, or as it is also called the mixture. In general, copper sulfate, freshly slaked lime and water are used here. It can be used in concentrations of 1% and 3%.

To prepare the working solution, Bordeaux mixture goes on sale. In the absence of the drug, Bordeaux liquid is prepared from copper sulfate and lime. If the lime is quicklime, it should first be quenched, for this the bay is a semi-finished product placed in an enameled or plastic utensils, two volumes of water and closing the lid. After boiling, the lime turns into fluff, from which milk of lime is prepared. You can immediately extinguish as much lime as you need for the whole summer.

To prepare 10 liters of 1% Bordeaux liquid, in glass, enamelware dissolve 100 g of copper sulfate in a small amount of heated water, and then bring the solution to 5 liters. In another container, dilute 100 g of slaked lime in 5 liters and strain the resulting milk of lime through a thin cloth or filter into another container with a capacity of at least 12 liters. Then, in a milk of lime, constantly stirring, pour a solution of copper sulphate in a thin stream. When mixing, the solutions should be cold.

If lime milk is prepared from lime paste, then 1.8-2 parts of it should be taken for one weight part of copper sulfate, since it contains up to 50% lime and the same amount of water in its composition.

The technology for preparing 3% Bordeaux liquid is similar.

A properly prepared working mixture should have a neutral or slightly alkaline environment. If metallic shiny objects (knife, nail) dipped into Bordeaux liquid become covered with reddish spots of copper, and blue litmus paper turns red, the solution is acidic. The use of such a drug causes burns on the leaves.

To prevent this from happening, lime milk must be added to the solution. The solution should not be diluted with water, as in this case the Bordeaux mixture may delaminate. The working solution is used after its preparation, during storage it loses its properties.

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COTTAGE RESIDENTS - SUCCESSFUL

All pesticides used to control pests and plant diseases are called pesticides. Depending on the objects against which they are used, they are divided into insecticides (for the destruction harmful insects), fungicides (to control fungal diseases), acaricides (to kill herbivorous mites), zoocides (to kill rodents), and herbicides (to kill weeds). Some chemicals are universal. Pesticides are usually used not in pure form, but in a mixture with other substances - solid, liquid or gaseous.

Dust - a mixture of a small amount of a pesticide with kaolin, talc, fluffy lime or ash. Usually dusts are used to pollinate plants against pests or diseases.

Suspension - a mixture of two or more substances, of which one - solid - is distributed in the other - liquid (most often in water) - in the form of tiny particles in suspension. In other words, a suspension is a mechanical mixture of a solid pesticide with a liquid, in which the solid pesticide does not dissolve, but is in the form of suspended particles.

An emulsion is a liquid in which microscopic droplets of another liquid are suspended. An example of an emulsion is a mixture of water with oil or alkali.

An emulsifier is a chemical added to an emulsion to prevent the oil particles from recombining in water. Soap is often used as an emulsifier.

Aerosols - the smallest droplets of a liquid with a pesticide, finely dispersed in a gas (fog), or small solid particles of a pesticide sprayed in a gas (smoke).

Spraying fruit trees and shrubs often use combined solutions that simultaneously act on pests and diseases. For example, Bordeaux liquid is used to fight diseases. By adding anabasin sulfate to it, a combined solution is obtained, suitable for combating diseases, leaf-eating and sucking insects.

But not all pesticides can be mixed with each other. In some cases, when mixed, the toxic effect of poisons is sharply reduced or the burning of plants is enhanced.

Combined formulations must be used up on the day they are prepared.

The following is a description of poisons used to control pests and diseases.

Anabasin sulfate is an oily dark brown liquid. It is used in the fight against aphids, suckers and small caterpillars, but no later than 20 days before harvesting. Working solution - 0.2-0.3% (20-30 g per 10 liters of water). It is used with the addition of 40 g of soap per 10 liters of solution. Soap is pre-dissolved in hot water.

Boverin is a wettable powder (biological product). It is used to control codling moth and other pests in orchards at a concentration of 0.5-1% (50-100 g per 10 l of water). To increase the toxicity, chlorophos (4 g per 10 l) can be added to the boverine solution, but in this case, the treatment should be stopped 20 days before harvest.

Bordeaux liquid - is used in the form of a 1% solution (100 g per 10 liters of water) to combat scab, anthracnose, rust and a number of other fungal diseases. Orchard processing stops 15 days before harvest. Bordeaux liquid is prepared on the farm immediately before use. Properly prepared Bordeaux liquid should have a sky blue color.

To prepare 10 liters of Bordeaux liquid, weigh 100 g of copper sulfate, put it in a wooden or earthenware bowl and dissolve in 5 liters of water. To speed up the dissolution, you can use hot water, but then the solution should be cooled. Separately quench 100 g of quicklime in a small amount of water, and then add the rest of the water, bringing the total volume to 5 liters. The resulting milk of lime is filtered through gauze and mixed with a solution of copper sulphate.

The finished liquid should have a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. To determine the reaction, a red litmus paper moistened with water is lowered into the liquid. If the paper turns slightly blue, then the liquid is prepared correctly.

In the absence of litmus paper, you can lower some metal object (knife or nail) into the liquid. If a red coating of copper forms on this object, indicating an incomplete interaction of vitriol with lime, then a little more lime should be quenched and added to Bordeaux liquid in the form of milk of lime, stirring thoroughly.

Bordeaux liquid is used in its pure form against fungal diseases, and in a mixture with anabazine sulfate - against pests. When preparing a mixture of Bordeaux liquid with anabasin sulfate (against diseases and sucking pests), 15-20 g of anabasin sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of Bordeaux liquid.

Ferrous vitriol - the green crystals which are well soluble in water. It oxidizes in air, acquiring a yellow-brown color. 4-5% solution (400-500 g are taken per 10 liters of water iron sulphate) is used as a spray in late autumn or early spring (before bud break) against mosses, lichens, leaf curl, American gooseberry powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. In addition, a 10-15% solution of iron sulfate can be used to control slugs by spraying the soil.

Lime-sulfur decoction (ISO). Red-yellow transparent liquid with the smell of hydrogen sulfide. It is used for spraying against ticks, as well as against fungal diseases.

ISO consists of 1 part quicklime, 2 parts sulfur and 10 parts water. To prepare a lime-sulfur decoction, 1 kg of lime is quenched in a boiler with a small amount of water and the mass is brought to a creamy state. Then, with constant stirring, gradually pour in 2 kg of sulfur powder. 10 liters of hot water are added to the resulting mixture, stirring, and boiled for 40 minutes, counting from the beginning of boiling. When boiling, water is added to the mixture as it evaporates. The finished broth should settle, after which it is poured into another bowl and tightly sealed.

Before use, lime-sulfur decoction (uterine) must be diluted, since solutions with a strength of 0.5-1% are used for spraying plants. The degree of dilution with water depends on the strength of the resulting broth, which can be determined in degrees by the Baumé hydrometer or by specific gravity, weighing 1 liter of the broth, which is more convenient in practice.

To prepare milk of lime, take 2-3 kg of quicklime per bucket of water. In order to avoid burns of the bark, lime is quenched at least 2-4 hours before the preparation of milk of lime. For better adhesion to plants, add 2 kg of clay, flour paste or wood glue, 25-50 g per bucket of lime milk.

Lime is quenched as follows. Pieces of quicklime are placed in a tight box, wooden barrel or earthenware (but not metal) and pour water little by little, avoiding its excess. At the beginning of extinguishing, warm or even hot water is used. Good lime, when wetted with water, begins to warm up, disintegrate into parts, and with further addition of water forms a powder (fluffy lime). When water is added to this powder, a thick mass is formed.

To keep it in a workable condition, quicklime should be kept in air- and moisture-tight boxes or barrels with tight-fitting lids. Slaked lime, if it is available in large quantities, is stored in the form of a thick creamy mass in deep dug into the ground. wooden boxes, tightly closed with boards and covered with a thick layer of earth.

Soda ash, or linen, soda (sodium carbonate) is used against American powdery mildew in the form of a 0.4-0.5% solution (40-50 g of soda per 10 liters of water). To improve adhesion, sugar, molasses (1-2 tablespoons per bucket of solution) or soap (40 g) are added to the solution. Even in high concentrations, the use of soda does not cause plant burns. Soda can be sprayed on both berries and plants without fear of ruining the crop.

Captan is a 50% wettable gray powder. It is used for spraying gardens at a concentration of 0.3-0.7% (30-70 g per 10 liters of water) against scab and monilial burn; strawberries - against white and gray rot; currants, gooseberries and raspberries - against anthracnose and other spots. Stop treatment with captan should be 20 days before harvest.

Karatan is a 25% wettable powder. It is used for spraying orchards and berries against powdery mildew in 0.1-0.5% concentration (10-50 g per 10 l of water). It is necessary to stop processing fruit and berry crops 20 days before harvesting. Strawberries are sprayed before flowering and after harvest.

Karbofos - 30% concentrate. Light or dark brown liquid with an unpleasant odor. It mixes well with water, forming a stable white, gray or brownish (depending on the degree of dilution with water) emulsion.

This is a contact poison that is used to combat aphids, thrips, herbivorous mites, beetle larvae, caterpillars, leafhoppers and bedbugs on fruit and vegetable crops at a concentration of 0.1-0.4% '(10-40 g per 10 liters of water) . Spraying is stopped 20 days before harvest. On plants, karbofos decomposes within a few days. Toxic to warm-blooded animals and humans. Karbofos is flammable. It must be stored in a sealed container.

Green Soap Concentrate (KZM) and other mineral oil oils. They are used against eggs of aphids, scale insects, suckers, larvae of false scale insects, apple moth caterpillars, as well as against scab and for the destruction of mosses and lichens in a 4-8% concentration (400-800 g per 10 liters of water).

Copper sulfate - blue crystals. They dissolve well in water, especially heated. A 1% solution (100 g per 10 liters of water) of copper sulphate is used in early spring against pathogens of fungal diseases. A 0.5% solution (50 g per 10 liters of water) can be used for preventive spraying of potato and tomato tops against late blight.

Potassium soap (green) - brown or greenish greasy mass, dissolves well in water. In its pure form, it is rarely used, mainly in the fight against aphids, for which they take 250-300 g of soap per 10 liters of water (2.5-3% solution). Basically, soap is added to various poisons to improve their stickiness to plants. Soap is also used for the preparation of mineral-oil emulsions. Liquid soap replaced by business.

Nitrafen is a dark brown 60% paste that liquefies when heated. It dissolves almost completely in water, the insoluble precipitate is only 5%. The drug contains sodium salts of phenol nitration products isolated from slate or coal semi-coking resins.

It is used against eggs of aphids, suckers, mites, larvae of false scale insects, as well as against pathogens of fungal diseases - anthracnose and septoria of berry crops, apple and pear scab, gooseberry downy mildew in a 2-3% concentration (200-300 g per 10 l water). Moderately toxic to humans, warm-blooded animals, poisonous to bees.

Feverfew is a greenish-yellow powder. Used against aphids, bedbugs, mites, leaf-eating caterpillars and beetles. For dusting, one part of the powder is mixed with two parts of road dust (100-250 g per 100 sq. M). For spraying, prepare a 1% suspension (100 g per 10 liters of water) with the addition of a double amount of soap. It is slightly toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals, moderately toxic to bees.

Preparation No. 30 - concentrates of emulsions of petroleum oils. They are used in spring to combat scale insects, red apple mites, leafworms in a 4-5% concentration (400-500 g per 10 l of water) and in summer (250-300 g per 10 l of water) against scale insect larvae. It is slightly poisonous for humans and warm-blooded animals, moderately poisonous for bees (it is enough to isolate them for one day).

Cyphos is a 70% wettable powder. It is used against aphids on fruit and vegetable crops at a concentration of 0.05-0.1% (5-10 g per 10 liters of water). Processing should be stopped 20 days before harvest. Moderately toxic to humans and warm-blooded animals, harmless to bees.

Colloidal sulfur is a grayish-yellow dusty powder with an admixture of loose lumps. The powder contains 70% sulfur and 30% water. It mixes well in water, forming a stable suspension. It is used for spraying fruit and berry crops against powdery mildew in a 1% concentration (100 g per 10 l of water).

Ground sulfur - finely ground sulfur powder of light yellow color. It is used for dusting fruit trees and vegetables against powdery mildew (250-300 g per 100 m²) without special restrictions.

Thedione is a 50% wettable greyish powder. It is used to combat ticks in the form of a 0.2-0.4% suspension (20-40 g per 10 liters of water). The nature of the action is similar to ethersulfonate. Remains toxic for up to two months. The effectiveness is not inferior to ethersulfonate. Can be used in a mixture with Bordeaux liquid. Harmless to humans, animals and bees.

Tobacco dust is a waste of tobacco factories containing from 0.5 to 1% nicotine. It is used to obtain tobacco infusion or decoction.

Tobacco infusion and decoction is a dark brown liquid that is used to spray plants against aphids and young caterpillars. To prepare tobacco infusion, take 1 kg of tobacco dust and insist for two days in 10 liters of water. Then the infusion is filtered and diluted with water 2-2.5 times.

Tobacco decoction is prepared as follows. 1 kg of tobacco dust and 10 liters of water are boiled for 30 minutes. The broth is left for a day to cool and infuse, then filtered and diluted 2-2.5 times with water. Tobacco infusion and decoction are contact poisons that kill aphids and various young caterpillars when they get on their body during spraying.

In order for tobacco infusion and decoction to better adhere to plants, it is recommended to add 0.4% soap to them (4 g per liter of liquid), while the soap is first dissolved by heating in a small amount of infusion or decoction.

Trichlormetafos-3 - 50% emulsion concentrate. It is used against aphids, suckers, herbivorous mites, scale insect larvae, young apple moth caterpillars and other pests at a concentration of 0.1-0.3% (10-30 g per 10 liters of water). Processing of orchards is stopped 20 days before harvest, vineyards - 45 days, berries and cucumbers - before flowering. Trichlormetaphos-3 is poisonous to humans, warm-blooded animals and bees.

Trichlorol-5 - petroleum oil concentrate with trichlormetaphos-3 (5%). It is used against eggs and larvae of scale insects, false scale insects, aphids, suckers and mites on fruit and ornamental plantings in a 2-3% concentration (200-300 g per 10 liters of water). Toxic to humans, warm-blooded animals and bees.

Fosalone - 35% emulsion concentrate or 30% wettable powder. It is used against apple, plum, pear, peach codling moths, suckers, leafworms, aphids and mites at a concentration of 0.2-0.3% (20-30 g per 10 liters of water). Processing is stopped 30 days before harvest. Toxic to humans, warm-blooded animals and bees.

Phosphamide (porop) - 40% emulsion concentrate. Yellowish-brown liquid with an unpleasant odor. It is an insecticide of intraplant and contact action. Effective against ticks, caterpillars, moths and aphids at a concentration of 0.1-0.2%. Long acting drug. Do not mix with alkaline preparations.

Zinc phosphide is a dark gray powder. It is used to prepare poisoned baits against mice and rats. Grain (preferably oats) are taken as baits and mixed with vegetable oil and zinc phosphide. For 1 kg of grain take 30 g of zinc phosphide and 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Zinc phosphide is a powerful poison! Care must be taken.

Phthalan is a 50% wettable powder with a specific odor. Effective in the fight against scab, powdery mildew, spots and rot. It is used in 0.3-0.7% concentration (30 g per 10 l of water) for the treatment of fruit and berry crops. Processing must be stopped 20 days before harvest.

Copper chloride - light green powder, replaces Bordeaux liquid. Effective against scab, anthracnose, etc. It is used as a suspension of 0.3-0.5% concentration (30-50 g per 10 l of water). Processing is recommended to stop 20 days before harvest.

Chlorophos - 80% technical formulation or 80% wettable powder. It is used against the codling moth, leaf-eating caterpillars on fruit and vegetable crops, bugs and sawflies in a 0.15-0.2% concentration (15-20 g per 10 liters of water). Processing should be stopped 20 days before harvest. Chlorophos is poisonous to humans, warm-blooded animals and bees.

Zineb is an 80% wettable greyish powder. It is used to combat apple and pear scab and currant anthracnose (except black) in the form of a 0.5-0.75% suspension. Compared to Bordeaux liquid, it has less stickiness. Therefore, in years with heavy rainfall, more spraying should be carried out.

Entobacterin is a wettable powder (biological product). It is used against leaf-eating caterpillars, larvae of the cherry slimy sawfly, caterpillars of apple and plum codling moths in a 0.5-1% concentration (50-100 g per 10 l of water). The drug is harmless to humans, warm-blooded animals and bees. To increase the toxicity of entobacterin, 2 g of chlorophos can be added to 10 liters of its suspension, but in this case, the processing of fruit and berry plants should be stopped 20 days before harvesting.

Ethersulfonate is a 30% dusty, light gray, well-wetting powder. Forms a stable suspension with water after stirring. It is used against various mites by spraying with 0.1-0.4% aqueous suspensions (10-40 g of powder per 10 liters of water) 45 days before harvest.

Plants that replace pesticides in pest control

Summer residents use various means prepared from plants to control pests, replacing pesticides. Here are some of them.

Burdock (burdock). Well chopped burdock (volume 1/3 to the volume of water) insist 3 - 5 days. Effective against aphids, caterpillars, codling moth and other sucking insects.

Tobacco. In a small bowl, boil 1 kg of that tank or 800 g of tobacco dust for 25-30 minutes. The broth is diluted with 10 liters of hot water and infused for 5-6 days. Before use, it is filtered and diluted two to three times with water so as not to burn the plants. It is necessary to store the solution in a sealed container, in a cool place, you can all summer. Used to control aphids.

Chamomile. Finely chopped 3-4 kg of chamomile leaves are poured into 10 liters of hot water and infused for a day, then filtered through gauze. Before spraying, the infusion is diluted 3 times with water. Recommended against aphids, caterpillars, various butterflies and other pests.

Trees will not suffer from codling moth if you plant chamomile around the apple trees. Daisies protect cabbage from caterpillars, phloxes and other flowers from aphids and even scare voles from plants.

Chamomile is useful to keep in closets and kitchens where you store food: there will be no mice.

Red pepper. In a sealed container in 1 liter of water for 40-50 minutes. boil 100 g of crushed red pepper and insist 2 - 3 days. The infusion is filtered and poured into bottles. It can be stored in a cool place all summer. Dilute with water before use. Against aphids, moths, sawflies, 130 g of infusion is taken per 10 liters of water, against the codling moth - 500 g.

Yarrow. In 10 liters of water, boil 30-40 minutes 800 g of dry or 2.5 kg of fresh chopped yarrow, then insist for a day. After that, the broth is filtered. Apply against sucking pests - aphids, suckers, spider mites and leaf-eating caterpillars.

Dandelion. In 10 liters of warm water for 8-10 hours, insist 750-800 g of crushed roots or 900-1000 g of fresh dandelion leaves. The infusion is used to combat aphids, mites, sucker.

Horse sorrel is prepared and used in the same way as dandelion.

Delphinium. Within 2-3 days, 1 kg of stems and leaves or 200 g of roots are infused in 10 liters of hot water. The infusion is used against caterpillars, different types butterflies, suckers, sawflies and other fruit and berry pests.

Belena is black. The whole plant is poisonous. It should be collected early in spring or late autumn, as well as during the flowering period, dried - in the wind in a darkened place (open attic country house or under an awning).

Method for making henbane infusion: 1 kg of crushed grass is poured into 10 liters of water and infused for 12 hours. If the infusion is made from rosette leaves and roots, ground into powder, then take 500 g per 10 liters of water. Spraying with henbane infusion is effective against aphids, spider mites and herbivorous bugs.

You can make a decoction of henbane: put 1 kg of dry henbane in 10 liters of water and boil for 30 minutes. After cooling, it can be used without prior infusion, adding 30-40 g for better adhesion to plants. laundry soap.

Datura ordinary. All parts of the plant are poisonous, harvesting the entire aerial part of the plant. It is applied in the same way as henbane. A decoction is used to combat aphids, spider mites, herbivorous bugs.

1. Tops of tomatoes. A decoction of the tops and stepchildren of tomatoes is used against leaf-eating pests and caterpillars of the codling moth and aphids. To prepare a decoction, take 5 kg of chopped tops per 10 liters of water, boil for 3 hours. The broth is allowed to settle, then filtered. For spraying, a solution is prepared from 2 liters of decoction and 10 liters of water. For better adhesion, 30-40 g of laundry soap is added to the solution.

2. Tops of tomatoes. It is harvested during pinching, after harvesting, before frost, tied in bunches and hung out to dry in attics or under a canopy. Dry tops are collected in bags and stored in attics.

To prepare a decoction, take 600 g of dry tops, crush, pour water and boil for 1.0-1.5 hours. Then the decoction is infused for a day, filtered through a double layer of gauze, poured into bottles and corked.

This decoction can be used immediately after preparation or stored in a cool place all summer and applied later. For the control of caterpillars, butterflies and all kinds of insect pests.

Wormwood. It can be collected all summer, dried and stored in a dry place. For 10 liters of water, take 1 kg of dry wormwood or 1.5 kg of green. A decoction of wormwood is prepared in the same way as from the tops of tomatoes (method No. 2). Apply it against caterpillars, butterflies and all types of insect pests.

Onion. In 10 liters of hot water for 3-5 days insist 400-500 g onion peel. Then the infusion is filtered and used against aphids, mites, suckers, codling moths. Even the currant bud mite is destroyed. 20-30 g of soap is added to the solution. The infusion should be used within 5 - 6 days.

Garlic. In 10 liters of hot water, put 200-300 g of garlic heads, previously ground in a meat grinder, and insist for 1-.2 days. The solution is used against all ticks. 20-30 g of soap is added to the solution.

Potato tops. In 10 liters of hot water, 1.8 kg of dry tops or 3 kg of green leaves are applied. They insist. After 5-6 hours, the infusion is filtered and used for spraying against aphids and mites. Do not make an infusion of high concentration, it can cause burns to plants.

Mustard powder is effective against scab, caterpillars, especially slugs, aphids, suckers. In a small amount of warm water, stir 70-80 g of the powder and pour it into 10 liters of water. The prepared solution is used immediately.

Before using infusions, so that they stick to the leaves better, adhesives are added to them, laundry soap is best - 30-40 g per 10 liters of infusion.

To combat pests and diseases of fruit and berry crops, it is necessary to plant plants that secrete bactericidal substances - phytoncides, which have a detrimental effect on many microorganisms - pathogens.

For example, where bird cherry grows, there are no flies. It is enough to bring branches of red elderberry into the room, as all cockroaches will disappear, they cannot stand its smell. Mice and rats also do not tolerate her smell. Flies, bedbugs, fleas and moths do not like the smell of tansy. Tansy should be planted in the garden, it will help protect plants from many pests.

It is necessary to have hemp bushes in the garden. Hemp, growing under the crown of an apple tree, reliably protects it from many pests and diseases. It effectively acts on the bacteria of root cancer, which affects apple trees and raspberries.

To protect strawberries from pests and insects, it is useful to plant well-known marigolds or nasturtiums. Their pungent smell (especially after cutting flowers) repels insects and pests. You can plant a row of onions or garlic between the rows of strawberries. Their smell repels strawberry mites and reduces the infection of berries with gray rot. Marigolds are used to fight ticks, Colorado potato beetle and root rot. To do this, herbs are planted in the aisles of vegetable crops.

Against aphids, spraying plants with a solution of laundry soap (200 - 300 g per 10 liters of water) is used.

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Why do we need slaked lime in the garden and vegetable garden

What is the reason for this and how to do it?

Fluff, slaked lime or calcium hydroxide is inorganic compound in the form of a white powder. Used for liming the soil if the acidity level is below 5.5. Slaked lime can be obtained by mixing lump lime with water at the rate of 10 kg of lime 3-4 liters of water, or you can buy a ready-made preparation in the form of a powder (fluff). Quicklime for microorganisms in the soil will be dangerous, because when it gets into moist soil, the slaking process begins, heat is released, which will be fatal. Slaked lime can be replaced with dolomite flour, which contains more not only calcium, but also magnesium. However, you should always remember that when replacing any drug with other analogues, you need to calculate the percentage active substance, in this case it is alkali.

Substitutes: 1 kg of lime = 4-6 kg of ash = 1.5-2.5 kg of dolomite flour. Hydrated lime is used as a means of combating larvae and beetles, for whitewashing trees and processing wooden objects that interact with the soil (fences, bench legs, plant supports, etc.). This will slow down the rotting process and will protect against pests. Do not forget that almost every dacha has a cellar where vegetables are stored, garden tools and other items necessary in the household, so lime will be an excellent prophylactic in the fight against mold in the cellar. Hydrated lime is applied to the soil in autumn or spring after plowing, so that it gradually penetrates into the depths during rain. If you do not dig up the garden, but you need to lime the soil, then distribute a bucket of fluff per 1 sq.m. and go with a flat cutter. Do not mulch. The application of lime cannot be combined with any other type of fertilizer, this can significantly reduce the result. It is worth noting that slaked lime should be used freshly prepared, since with prolonged interaction with carbon dioxide in the air, its properties begin to evaporate.

milk of lime

There is such a thing as milk of lime. Some summer residents use it as a substitute for whitewash, spraying entire trees and shrubs. Thus, there is a continuous protection of plants from sunburn and overheating, the bark is wrapped in a “warm shirt” in winter and lingers. spring bloom for a week, thereby saving many plants from recurrent frosts in the spring. It is not difficult to prepare milk of lime: depending on the concentration, take 1-2 kg of freshly slaked lime and dilute it in 10 liters of water. If pest larvae are poured on a tree with milk of lime, then they will not be able to develop and the caterpillars will not be able to move.

Indeed, cement-lime mortar is not only cheap, but also very malleable in work. It has good ductility and adhesion to surfaces. In addition, you will have more time to make the surface to be plastered as even and smooth as possible, since the mortar retains an oily consistency for a long time.

Preparation for work

To make a cement-lime mortar, you will need the following:

Cement brand 400;
- sand;
- lime or lime paste;
- gauze;
- a sieve with a mesh size of 2-3 cm;
- container for mixing mortar 30 cm high, 70 cm wide and about a meter long;
- container for slaking lime;
- shovel or chopper;
- protective glasses;
- rubber gloves.

Preparation of dry cement-sand mixture

First, mix sand with cement. Sand must first be sieved through a sieve to remove clay clots, shells or small pebbles. Prepare a dry mix using cement and sand in a ratio of 1:4-5, respectively. To do this, alternately pour layers of cement and sand into the container, and then mix the mixture well with a shovel or chopper.

Preparation of milk of lime

If you purchased ready-made lime dough from the store, then simply dilute it with water and you get milk of lime.

If you bought simple quicklime, you will first have to pay it off. To do this, pour lime into a barrel of water, close the lid and hold for a day. Extinguishing lime is accompanied by seething, so it will not be superfluous to protect your eyes with goggles, and your hands with rubber gloves.

Then strain the slaked lime through cheesecloth. Dilute the resulting pasty mass with water to the consistency of milk or liquid sour cream.

Preparation of cement-lime mortar

In a dry cement-sand mixture, add milk of lime in a ratio of 5: 1. Thoroughly mix the solution with a shovel or chopper, adding water if necessary.

Now the resulting cement-lime mortar must be checked for the correct consistency. To do this, lower a shovel into it and, removing it from the solution, pay attention to how the solution sticks to the metal surface.

If a large amount of solution remains on the shovel, then it is too greasy. In this case, add a small portion of sand to it. If the shovel came out almost clean, then the solution turned out to be too thin. Then it is necessary to connect it with cement or lime paste.

Ideally, the mortar should stick a little on the shovel, and if you achieve this, then the cement-lime mortar is ready for use. Try to prepare so much solution that it lasts no more than 2-3 hours, as it gradually loses its properties.