How to spud roses for the winter except for the earth. Protection of heat-loving roses by hilling

Rice. one root system four-year hybrid tea rose His Majesty. adventitious roots: a.- formed above the grafting site on the root collar b.- two tiers of shoots are visible - the result of hilling and backfilling.

Rice. 2 root system annual own-rooted polyanthus rose Orange Triumph.

Rice. 3 root system a four-year-old grafted New Down climbing rose; a- adventitious roots b- roots formed above the grafting site

During the summer, roses need the most careful care: loosening, watering, fertilizing, adding soil (or hilling), pruning fading inflorescences, as well as protection from pests and diseases.

In case of soil compaction, after heavy rains or abundant watering and in a dry summer loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-8 cm at a distance of 15-20 cm from the bush, and the base of the bush is sprinkled with humus or well-weathered limed peat to a height of 10-12 cm.

In urban flower beds, you can sometimes find underdeveloped rose bushes with single flowers. This happens because ignorant gardeners in the spring, when the plants are released from the ground, greatly expose the root neck, and later, when watering from a hose with a beating stream, they wash off part of the soil and expose the base of the bush even more.

Root system dries up, and dormant buds at the base of the shoots do not awaken and do not give new strong flowering shoots. As a result, plants develop poorly and bloom poorly. Own-rooted polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus roses are especially affected, in which the entire active mass of roots is located in the upper soil layer at a depth of 15-20 cm.

In urban flower beds, where the layer of bulk soil is small (in best case 30-40 cm), and the construction of deep pits is difficult, grafted roses need to create conditions for the development of roots in the upper soil horizon.

This can be achieved by pouring (or hilling) nutrient soil to the base of the bush at least once or twice during the summer.

Rose observations in natural soils showed that with strong hilling throughout the summer in grafted tea-hybrid, polyanthic. hybrid-polyanthus and climbing roses, adventitious roots are formed on the stem part of the scion.

They have a thick lobe and are located at a depth of 10-20 cm. Hilling from year to year leads to the formation of a longline root system. The plant gradually moves to its own roots, grows well and blooms profusely, intensively using the upper layers of the soil.

At the same time, the roots of the stock still continue to function.

Bedding solves several issues of rose care at once, especially in urban conditions: stimulates the formation of an adnexal root system, protects the root neck from drying out, helps to awaken the lower dormant buds from which flower stalks develop (for remontant and climbing roses, flowering of the next year depends on replacement shoots).

Land for bedding must be taken from the side. It is impossible to replace the seed with hilling, since this reduces the layer of earth between the rows and this leads to the drying up of the root system, moving away from the bush of both the hilled and neighboring plants.

Abundant weekly watering(weekly in hot summer) promotes continuous growth and flowering of roses. It should be watered in the furrows around the bush so that the soil is moistened to a depth of at least 50 cm. After the water has been absorbed, the furrows are leveled and mulched (with humus or peat).

Feeding can be combined with watering organic and mineral fertilizers. It should be noted that during the fermentation of slurry, a lot of growth stimulant auxins that are useful for the plant are lost.

In the first half of summer, during budding, roses are fed with a liquid solution of fresh mullein (1:10), 10-15 g is added to one bucket ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt.

After the first bloom when the buds of the second flowering are laid, you should still feed the roses, increasing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 20-25 g and superphosphate to 50-60 g per 1 bucket of solution.

Third top dressing give no later than the beginning of August, while reducing the dose of ammonium nitrate to 10-15 g and increasing the dose of potassium salt to 20-25 g per bucket of solution.

For the last feeding only superphosphate (50-60 g) and potassium (20-25 g per bucket of clean water) are included, which are necessary at this time in order to promote the ripening of faded shoots and delay the growth of new ones.

Withered flowers must be removed to encourage the development of new buds from the axils of the upper leaves of the flower shoots.

In the second half of August, loosening and watering should be stopped., and leave the set fruits on the plant. It also contributes to the maturation of the wood and better preparation plants for winter.

Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, not always and not everywhere the natural and climatic conditions are favorable for the cultivation of this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to beginner gardeners. About which roses are recommended to cover for the winter, features of shelter different varieties and varieties, optimal timing, the subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational ways, will be covered in our article.

When to cover roses for the winter

name certain deadlines when you can cover roses for the winter is very difficult, because it primarily depends on weather conditions your region and its climatic features.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when the stable ones come. sub-zero temperatures, and these should not be single frosts, but it is desirable that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this already on frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it is better to take even the average daily temperature), it should stabilize at around -5 ..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to keep an eye on the weather forecast all the time.

Note! If, along with a decrease in temperature, snow also fell, then you can cover directly in the snow.

But the approximate terms of shelter in the regions can still be called. Yes, in middle lane(Moscow region) roses cover around the end of October - the first half of November, as well as in Leningrad region, and in the Volga region. In the northern regions (in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the South of Russia - the most late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and it rains.

Video: when to cover roses for the winter

What roses need to be covered for the winter

park roses , as a rule, very rarely shelter for the winter, tk. they possess high enough winter hardiness.

Park

And here floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses cover necessarily. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to hide.

Important! Hybrid tea roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut “to zero”, but if okuchka was sufficient, then the chance to find living branches under it is quite high.

Hybrid Tea

Video: shelter hybrid tea roses

The specifics of the shelter of climbing roses

Obviously hard enough to hide climbing roses because of their great height.

The technique of sheltering climbing roses is as follows:

Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine (twine) to make a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different directions. After that, already under its own weight, a sheaf (bundle) of roses easily leans to the ground.

Video: shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Features of the shelter of standard roses

It is not so easy to cover standard roses.

The specificity of the shelter of this variety is as follows: you dig your rose from one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arcs. You fall asleep (spud) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the stem itself.

By the way! Some especially scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the whole rose with covering material, also put a frame on top, which is also covered.

Video: how to cover a standard rose for the winter

But it is best not to bend the bushes (especially adults, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including a bole.

Preparing roses for shelter for the winter

Before covering roses, it is necessary to carry out the following measures to prepare the "Queen of Flowers" for winter:

• Feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
• Conduct autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).

• Slices cover up garden pitch or even better pasta "RanNet".
• Pick up all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and breaking the leaves), as it is a source of infections.
• Treat for diseases and pests. For example, you can sprinkle copper-containing preparations (blue vitriol or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oksikh. and etc.

Important! If you cover roses with leaves, or the plant was sick, then treatment is required.

Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone different land, climate (weather). For example, some flower growers believe that an okuchka in the middle lane (Moscow region) is a boon for roses, because they fade much more often than they freeze out.

But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often simmer.

Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - then rains, then thaws, it is better to put arcs, throw a spunbond on top, and leave vents on the sides. As soon as the cold sets in, the vents should be closed.

• shelter.

Important! Shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides

Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, and not one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.

Covering with earth or hilling

The most "ancient" way to cover roses is to sprinkle with earth.

However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, even in late autumn), roses under a layer of earth simmer.

But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.

At first, you just lightly sprinkle the base of the bush with earth, and already with the onset of stable frosts, you fall asleep and the bush itself (but preferably with dry earth), making a mound about 30 cm high.

Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with earth, then, if possible, add more snow when you clear the paths. So your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.

Without arcs (air-dry)

To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered again, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches, last year's semi-dry ones will do.

Important! Optional and no need to cut branches spruce branches right from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.

If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then instead of it you can use branches from pruning shrubs(only not sick), but also better branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.

Please note! Hay will not work, because. it dies and under it mice start up. As well as sawdust, because they get wet during thaws, and when frost hits, they freeze and spoil the root collar, it turns black - it simmers in an icy cocoon.

Step-by-step instruction rose shelters for the winter without arcs (on branches):

On arcs (air-dry)

Step-by-step instructions for sheltering a rose for the winter on arcs (air-dry method):

Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials

Interesting! Covering material is necessary to protect against the icy wind in the pre-winter season and from sunburn spring.

Its installation on the frame (arcs or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.

Generally, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then the wintering will be excellent.

Film cover

A lot of people use film for shelter. However, you can cover roses with foil only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in the very early spring (or you live in a private house) to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply warm up. In addition, the frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can be torn).

By the way! If you are a resident in the rainy region then over spunbond it is recommended to cover the roses with a film on the arcs, but it is important not to close the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.

Note! In all other cases, it is impossible to cover a rose with a film, it does not breathe!

Shelter with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)

Shelter advantage nonwoven fabric is the fact that despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, under such a shelter it still practically does not accumulate, most of it rolls off. Thus, under the agrofibre, the most optimal mode humidity and air.

If you have found a 30, 40 micron spunbond, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).

Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. Inside, the earth will begin to thaw earlier, there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used in beds (strawberry) or flower beds so that weeds do not grow.

Video: sheltering roses for the winter with spruce branches and spunbond

Bags of sugar

It is quite budgetary to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags, they practically do not let moisture through and breathe well (thanks to weaving structure).

Advice! It is quite convenient to put bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.

Shelter with cardboard

Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (this is immediately a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so it is necessary to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (in 2 layers) or film.

And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and the final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the shelter breathes).

Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film

Conclusion! Thus, when choosing a covering material, the following rules should be followed.

• Between shelter and rose shoots should be space - air space, it will protect the flowers from the cold.
• Cover must be breathable, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no high humidity inside.

Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.

Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden

Features of sheltering roses in different regions

Depending on the climatic features of the growing region of the “Queen of Flowers”, there are some small nuances for sheltering roses for the winter.

In the south of Russia

If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to spud roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or just earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, then new ones will grow from the neck.

In the middle lane (Moscow region), in the Urals and in Siberia, everything is different.

In the middle lane (Moscow region)

The middle lane is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. Therefore, the best shelter for roses in the middle lane (Moscow region) is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.

In the Urals and Siberia

In principle, the shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to the shelter in the middle lane, but amateur flower growers advise to do without hilling, using spruce branches (quite controversial), but simply to make an air-dry shelter on arcs, pulling, for example, geotextiles from above in 1 layer (density 150).

Video: shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia

How to save roses in winter in very cold northern regions

Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in the frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where in winter it can be up to -50 and below.

With such climatic conditions it is better plant roses in a pot and for the winter to lower into the cellar or basement.

For normal storage in the cellar all winter must be maintained very low temperature- no higher than + 4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. At a higher temperature, roses will begin to grow and stretch from a lack of light.

winter care for roses in pots in the cellar the following: first of all, it is necessary to ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out “to death”, which means that it should be periodically watered in a dry way, putting snow in the pot.

In the spring, gradually begin to bring out into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.

So that even for beginner gardeners, flowers of tenderness and beauty endure the winter without problems and delight in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in their shelter for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the features various kinds and varieties of roses, the optimal timing of shelter, as well as natural and climatic conditions in different regions and the most suitable ways protection against thaws and frosts.

Video: how to cover roses for the winter

Important! If you you do not want to under the shelter of a rose gnawed by mice, then it is necessary to put special sent decoys or alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).

In contact with

We continue the conversation about preparing the rosary for winter (you can read the beginning in the publication). In our harsh Russian climate, roses spend in shelter (just think!) Almost half a year. The success of wintering will depend on how competently we take care of our favorites. Sometimes it's a pity to send our gorgeous roses into forced confinement, but we have no other choice.

Pre-winter preparation

In a previous publication, I settled on the fact that in the dry season of Indian summer it is necessary to tie and bend to the ground. Pre-cut the unripened tops of scrubs and climbings, English, and musk roses, remove flowering shoots with buds.

Roses in the dry season of Indian summer must be tied and bent to the ground.A photo

Second: when pruning leaves, it is easy to damage the delicate skin of the shoots, where the infection will penetrate. But most importantly, the leaves of roses continue to participate in the process of photosynthesis, giving everything the roots of plants need. This continues even in shelter with meager rays of light that penetrate there (if translucent lutrasil was used). To deprive them of such an opportunity means to weaken the plants.

It has been noticed that those roses that have lost their leaves as a result of black spot disease winter much worse and die more often. Therefore, the main task is to keep the leaves to the last. And in the spring they themselves will disappear, and you can easily collect them.

We save the leaves to the last.A photo

Whether to spud roses

Another controversial issue- whether to fall asleep necks of grafted roses. There is an opinion that this must be done in the fall to prevent them from freezing. In my opinion, it's best to leave things as they are. To rake the earth around means to expose the roots, it is not advisable. It is dangerous to fall asleep, as biochemical processes continue in it. This is an active microbiological environment in which an infectious burn develops. By spring, the stems of roses covered with compost will be ringed. brown spots, the stems will have to be removed and it’s good if the rose does not die at all.

Infectious burn of a rose.A photo

It is even worse to use for these purposes, even if rotted. My neighbors once covered their roses up to half the height with manure so that they would be “warmer”. The result was sad: in the spring the plants turned black, the entire collection was destroyed.

Friendly advice: if you have a lot of roses, do everything in stages. Prepared a dozen plants - cover, then proceed to others. This must be done due to the unpredictability of our weather. We learned this from one incident when we prepared our rose garden for the final shelter, and the next morning it snowed.

Universal spruce branches

In old Russian gardens roses were traditionally covered. This natural material, thanks to numerous needles, creates a kind of airy "fur coat" that keeps the heat coming from the ground. It is important that this fur coat also "breathes", which prevents the processes of decay.

In addition, needles are an excellent aseptic material. Under the spruce branches, covered with snowdrifts, roses feel great both in frost and during thaws.

Under spruce branches, roses feel great.A photo

However, recently it has become increasingly difficult to get hold of spruce branches, as in the old days. In outskirts of Moscow coniferous forests entire hectares are destroyed by the typographer beetle, it has become easy natural disaster. If you're lucky just find fallen tree consider yourself very lucky. And in all other cases, the harvesting of spruce branches should be stopped for ethical reasons. Numerous rose lovers should think about the fate of the forests.

Last year, we were unexpectedly lucky - a neighbor cut down a large "Kremlin" Christmas tree on his site, and we got a luxurious spruce branch, under which our roses comfortably overwintered. But this happens once in a lifetime. In other cases, you need to look alternatives.

Lapnik is an ideal hiding place for roses.A photo

Air dry shelter

Our savvy rose growers came up with the so-called air-dry shelter. This is exclusively Russian know-how. A strong frame is constructed around the perimeter of the rose garden, on which boards are laid, covering material is spread over them, for example, roofing material, lutrasil or spunbond.

A strong frame is being built around the perimeter of the rose garden.A photo

Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame. This is done so that the spunbond does not fall into the shelter under the weight of snow. Under such shelter it is warm and dry.

Additionally, a garden net with a fine mesh is placed on the frame.A photo

However, this method requires a compact planting of roses in a single array. Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.

Lonely growing plants will have to be covered individually.A photo

Before frost, such a structure must be ventilated by removing excess moisture, for this, the ends are left open. And only when the temperature drops to -5 ... -7 ° C, they are closed. This method has the right to exist, but it is not without drawbacks.

To begin with, the construction of such a large-scale structure will require certain skills and materials. A huge mass of snow in a year of heavy snowfalls can break this shelter, and simply crush the roses under it. Therefore, it must be made reliable and strong.

The roses are there literally in a dungeon, not receiving sunlight. By spring, they become pale and tortured. When the time comes to open them, the plants may suffer from bright spring sun. At one time, we practiced this method of shelter in our garden, but in recent years we have found that the use of modern covering technologies and materials makes the life of a rose grower much easier.

Modern ways

most acceptable and accessible way rose shelters today can be considered the use of modern ones - lutrasil, spunbond, agril, the invention of which greatly facilitated the life of rose lovers. The density of such materials must be at least 60 g/m².

Plants are covered with at least 2 layers with the waxed side up (important!). With such a shelter, roses "breathe", when wet from rains or during thaws, lutrasil dries quickly, it is easy to work with. The edges of the fabric must be securely fastened with bricks or boards so that it is not blown away by the wind. After the snowfalls begin, the roses will be in a safe and warm shelter.

Reliable shelter for roses.A photo

I must say that some gardeners use covering material in a completely wrong way, simply wrapping upright bushes with it. One often sees such "ghosts" in snow-covered gardens. However, such, so to speak, protection will not save the rose from frost. After all, it is known that it is not the blanket that warms us, but we are the blanket. So in this case, the rose is not able to generate heat, it gives the earth. Therefore, we bend our roses to the mother earth - a source of heat, the covering material shields its losses into the atmosphere, and the snow works like a thermos. A rose wrapped in a cloth is left alone with the frost and is not able to survive the harsh winter.

It is noted that "in big company» Roses overwinter better than single roses. This is due to the fact that with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bshelter under it, more comfortable temperature because the earth is warm. Above large roses at the bending points, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise, this is done so that the snow does not break them.

Above large roses in the places of the fold, garden arcs should be additionally installed crosswise.A photo

In such places, a dome is formed, from which the snow mass will inevitably slide. In conclusion, we throw another plastic film on the lutrasil, leaving air ducts below for ventilation. This film protects the shelter from rain in autumn, from glaciation after winter thaws and, importantly, serves as additional protection against melt water in spring.

Properly wrapped roses will sleep peacefully all winter. Closer to spring, we will definitely talk about how to competently and safely release our captives and what to do with them later.

Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

When creating protective winter shelters, garden soil is used as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

• the material should not be moisture-intensive;
• the material should not cake and compact;
• the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root collar rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

• tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
• loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are constant discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. Requires additional building air-dry shelter above the bush.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system more sensitive to frost than roses grafted onto hardy rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

Any grower takes care of every rose bush growing in his garden. But it is especially important for our climate to properly cover roses from winter frosts. This task will not always be easy, since each climatic region has its own characteristics, winter often presents temperature changes and is not always rich in snowfalls. Covering roses for the winter, you need to provide for any weather surprises.

When do you cover a rose for the winter

Roses grown in most of Russia need to be covered for the winter. But the exact time when the rose must be completely closed from cold air cannot be specified. This plant tolerates small frosts well, but excessive overheating can cause the death of the bush. It is recommended to cover the rose bush once and for all when light frosts (about 5°C) are established.

If you do not have the opportunity to constantly monitor the change in temperature, shelter can be carried out in stages. First, the root system is dug in with earth, the bush can be covered with a thin cloth, and the rose can be more thoroughly covered later.

The initial stage of preparing a rose for wintering is a gradual transition to a state of rest

In order for the plant to better prepare for the dormant period, it is necessary to stop performing those actions that stimulate it to grow:

• in no case should fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers be allowed, as they contribute to the growth of green mass; you can feed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers or their natural equivalents (wood ash);
• remove weeds around the rose bush, but do not cultivate the soil, as it also encourages the plant to develop;
• gradually reduce watering, with in large numbers rainfall can make drainage grooves or even a canopy.

Such work in warm temperate climate perform from the beginning of September, in regions with a shorter summer - from mid-August.

The second stage: protecting the rose from the development of diseases under the covering material

Any rose shelter design cannot fully guarantee the absence of at least a slight overheating. And high temperature and humidity contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of prevention:

• the source of infection is the leaves, especially the lower ones; they must be carefully cut; for roses with long branches, the removal of leaves is carried out in several stages, starting from the bottom;
• young shoots must be removed, since they will not be able to overwinter, and if they die, they will become a source of infection;
• the bush and the ground around it are sprayed with a fungicide: Bordeaux mixture or a three percent solution of copper sulfate.

Leaf pruning and spraying is carried out before hilling rose bush for the winter in the period when the first frosts have just begun.

Covering the root system with earth and pruning the rose bush

Hilling roses before wintering is mandatory in all regions. The simplest and most effective material for this is ordinary earth. But it’s better if you don’t rake the bush, but bring it from the garden. The mound around the plant should be at least thirty centimeters from the vaccination site. From above, the soil can be covered with spruce branches.

The use of sawdust or humus during hilling is not desirable, as this can cause overheating of the root system during thaws

Before hilling, you need to trim the branches. How long to cut them depends on the type of rose and the height of your shelter:

• hybrid tea roses are pruned so that, after hilling, 10–15 centimeters of trunks are visible above the mound of the earth; in these species, buds form on young shoots, so it is enough to keep the old trunks healthy at the base of the bush;
• in weaving roses, buds appear only on old (two-year-old and older) shoots, so it is important to leave the branches as long as possible and cover them without fail, so pruning depends on how you make the shelter, but even with very long branches it is not recommended to remove more the third part of the trunk;
• in standard roses, branches are cut only for the purpose of forming a crown; it is imperative to cover the entire bush and trunk and crown;
• park roses are considered hardy and are usually not covered.

Branch cuts after pruning are best treated with Runnet or a special varnish-balm

Simultaneously with pruning, long branches are bent to the ground, the branches are tied and lowered onto a support or insulating material between them and the soil: the same spruce branches, wooden boards.

After bending down the branches of a climbing rose, a frame is installed above it

Although I am not an outstanding gardener, I have been growing rose bushes for over twenty years. And I can tell from own experience that a simple hilling of hybrid tea roses in our region (Bryansk region), even without shelter with spruce branches, completely ensures the preservation of the bushes. But without such hilling, the rose freezes out. Last years I do not cut branches of roses: what is covered with earth will not freeze, top part at severe frosts dies, and if the winter is warm, it will remain green. In the spring, you only need to remove all the blackened parts of the bush.

Organizing a winter shelter for roses

The main protection of the plant from frost is an air cushion, which is formed between the coating and the stem, therefore, for the effectiveness of your work, you must fulfill the following conditions:

1. The branches should not touch the fabric cover.
2. The fabric material must be dense, at least 200 g/m², in cold regions several layers must be used.
3. The fabric must not be allowed to get wet, otherwise it will freeze through; can be used as water protection wooden shields or other improvised material: polyethylene film or polycarbonate, but in this case it is necessary to provide vents.
4. In regions with a guaranteed large snow cover, it is enough to bend the branches and cover with a thin material.

Photo gallery: how to make a shelter for roses

Wooden shields will be a strong support for the fabric covering. The frame is made of metal or propylene pipes can be of a wide variety of shapes, but it is better if the entire rose garden is under one shelter. The polycarbonate shelter has good thermal insulation properties and besides, it is quite rigid, you must not forget about its mandatory ventilation. You can not remove climbing roses from the supporting supports, but then you need to make a shelter around them using spruce branches and a fabric cover standard roses can be bent to the ground, but it is better to make a vertical shelter

Video: how to cover roses for the winter

Despite the laboriousness of carrying out all the work on proper preparation rosaries for the winter, each grower carefully performs them, because only in this case next year will delight him with the flowering of roses.