​Related Articles​

In the conditions

Planting time for fruit trees

end of leaf fall

Cherries

How to choose the right seedlings

​: strong wind, ice, snowfalls and other weather troubles can break young plants. ​

Planting hole sizes for different crops

Planting dwarf trees is done in the same way as in the case of tall trees.

To avoid transplants, the soil and place must be selected in advance. They may turn out to be a hill without wind and without a large number ground water. Water should not stagnate and be located near the surface of the soil. If there is such a need, then the soil structure must be increased before planting. Organic fertilizers are selected in advance and they depend on the soil.​

winter-hardy pears.

A highly developed crown should be cut in half, but if the shoots are weak, then only a third.

One of the main autumn work in the garden is the planting of fruit trees in autumn. The very first question that arises is the landing time. There are different opinions, some prefer autumn, some prefer spring. I plant in both fall and spring. It depends more on my mood.​

Middle lane

Central Russia

Well, of course, it would be a mistake to plant in the autumn in the northern regions those seedlings that were brought from more southern climatic zones - they simply will not survive the frosts unusual for their homeland. In the next video - practical advice what plants are best to plant in the fall

In late autumn and winter, seedlings are often damaged

When to plant trees - in spring or autumn? There is hardly an absolutely unambiguous answer to this question: it doesn’t happen year after year due to weather conditions, and the soils in each area are different, and any seedling, like any living organism, is distinguished by its individuality. Each season has its own set of pros and cons to take into account when deciding to plant. ​

According to experienced gardeners, almost all types of trees growing in our climatic zones can be suitable for autumn planting, unless, of course, overly sensitive species (cherry, peach, apricot, walnut, chestnut) are not taken into account, since due to their vegetation characteristics , they tolerate frost very poorly.

superda4nik.ru

Planting fruit trees in autumn

Fertilizers can be both organic and mineral, and the soil should not be very clay or sandy. The landing pit is being prepared months in advance. Such timing allows the earth to settle in time. It is right to choose a place in the garden closer to the fence. no choice suitable tree you can't create your own garden. The usual part of the root fruit cherry in this case, it will not work if you want a frost-resistant tree that bears fruit well. Therefore, it is best to buy ready-made seedlings and do this in the fall if you want to plant cherries in the spring.​

Planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn

As for the best time for planting fruit trees in the fall, the period from the end of September to the whole of October is considered optimal. And if the weather is warm enough, then you can plant until mid-November.

• If you have your own experience and planting fruit trees in the fall is always successful for you, write in the comments.​
• In this post, I will talk about the features of the autumn planting, because it is autumn in the yard. Another topic is the article planting raspberries in the fall.
• It also happens that in the fall it was not possible to plant a seedling. Maybe at the very end of the season you successfully got to the sale of seedlings at "bargain" prices or managed to get a wonderful desired variety that autumn planting not subject ... what to do in this case?
• Autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October. ​
• rodents

The natural truth is this: wood and earth are two parts of the indivisible. Therefore, you can reunite them - that is, plant a tree in the ground - at any time of the year (excluding the period when the earth is not able to take root - when it is frozen). Another thing is the sum of other accompanying conditions. It is she who determines how the seedling will take root, how it will develop further. Therefore, each plant has its own auspicious time landings and transfers. And since autumn is in the yard, let's remember which trees should be planted right now (and why so). ​

• ​What fruit trees can be planted in autumn? ​
• How to properly prepare the soil? To do this, it can be limed, but it is not always necessary to cultivate the entire planting area - sometimes it is enough just to fill the root recesses with fertilizers. Pits are dug out such that a seedling fits in them without damaging the roots. The depth can reach 24 cm and the diameter - 60 cm. The process of soil preparation can be viewed on video - this will make it easier to understand the procedure and allow you to plant cherries without errors.​

​Depending on climate zone residence, the timing of planting fruit trees is as follows:

​to main​

• If you plan to plant trees in the autumn, then you should focus on the beginning of leaf fall, when the growth of trees has stopped.
• Ural
• And all you need to do is take care of saving your seedling until spring, so that then you can plant it on the site. Based on practice, three of the most common methods are used for this:

How to plant fruit trees in autumn?

Winter-hardy apple and pear varieties

​.​As soon as completed autumn chores on the beds, in the hands of summer residents going to their plots, seedlings with carefully covered roots appear. A short, but very responsible time for planting trees begins, and whoever is convinced of the correctness of the autumn choice is not mistaken at all.

Of the fruit trees in autumn, pear, apple, cherry plum, cherry, mountain ash, mulberry and many plum varieties are most suitable for planting. As experienced gardeners note, on trees planted in autumn period the fruits are larger and more juicy.

Planting cherries in the fall is best done by established instruction. In order for the sprouts to take root, you should know some planting rules, without which you may lose sight of some important factors that affect the yield. Before planting cherries in the fall, it is necessary to prepare the sprouts. How to do it right, what solution to prepare so that the roots are fed when they get into fertile soil, can be found in the video at the end of the recording. First, a mixture of manure and clay is made, after which the seedling descends into it with its roots. Only after that it is installed in the pit.

womanadvice.ru

We plant cherries in the fall correctly

In the middle lane, autumn planting of trees is carried out from mid-September to mid-October;

Preparatory work

​p.p.s. Useful article- when to dig carrots.

And you need to finish 3-4 weeks before the establishment of persistent frosty weather. If this is done earlier, it may happen that the acquired seedlings have not yet entered the dormant phase and will not take root during transplantation. If later, there is a high risk of freezing the root system. As a result, lost work and deep disappointment in the spring.

storage in a cold, damp basement (cellar)

northern regions

Landing instruction

Aronia

Well, during the absence of the owners, seedlings in the country just

It's more profitable

​What coniferous trees can be planted in autumn?

Lowering the sprouts into the pit, do not make a mistake with the depth. The root neck should be at ground level. It is also important to consider the settling factor.​

in more northern regions- from the beginning of September and only until the beginning of October;

Often people ask themselves the question: when is it better to plant seedlings of fruit trees - in spring or autumn? And I must say that there is no definite answer here. It depends on many factors: weather, climate, plant variety. What trees can and should be planted in the fall and how to produce proper fit fruit trees - we will try to answer these and other questions. In the spring, planting fruit crops should not be delayed either. This should be done immediately after the soil has thawed, and the buds of the seedlings have not yet swelled in the seedlings.

Siberia

Video "How to plant cherries"

snowfall

plodovie.ru

What trees are planted in autumn?

- from the beginning of September to the beginning of October

Currant

can steal

What types of trees are planted in autumn?

It is much more profitable to buy seedlings in autumn: both nurseries and private gardeners begin to sell newly dug planting material - from here big choice, affordable price and the ability to evaluate the quality of the purchase. Plants at this time are often sold with their last leaves and fresh roots (which may indicate the health of the seedling). In addition, conscientious gardeners often demonstrate the fruits inherent in this particular variety, which is very important for the buyer.

Coniferous trees planted in autumn have a higher survival rate. That is, a seedling of a coniferous tree, which will be planted in warm autumn soil, takes root better in a permanent place than when planted in unheated spring soil.

in more southern regions the planting period is shifted to October-mid-November.​ Planting such fruit trees in the fall is not recommended:

How to plant fruit trees in autumn?

For autumn planting, it is best to choose zoned, and if necessary, winter-hardy varieties that are acclimatized and take root quickly. So, fruit trees of Siberian and Ural selection - pear and apple, mountain ash, mulberry and cherry plum - tolerate planting in autumn quite well. For gardeners

digging in the ground

Raspberry

other lovers of fruit trees. ​

How to dig a hole for landing?

It's easier

Before we start planting, we still need to prepare the ground. That is, we choose a place with a lower level of groundwater (at least 1.5 m). In cases where the waters are located above this mark, then we will need to equip the drainage.

Here are the stages of planting a sprout in the ground: a peg is installed in the center of the pit. If the seedling is tall enough, several of these pegs may be needed. The young bush is fixed precisely by them. Enough soil is poured into the bottom of the pit, which is taken from above the fruitful layer.

A landing pit for the future planting of a seedling must be prepared in advance, several months in advance. This is due to the fact that the earth in it must have time to settle. Planting holes should be approximately 50-60 centimeters in diameter and 60-80 centimeters deep. If the soils are clayey and heavy, it is better to make a hole of a larger diameter and less depth.

chudoogorod.ru

What trees and why is it better to plant in the fall

apple trees;
Do not try to choose exotic varieties: the more they are adapted to your area, the greater the chance of a rich harvest. Choose seedlings without signs of diseases of the root system (tumor-like growths, areas of decay), signs long-term storage and improper transportation.​

southern regions

• In the next video, Evgeny Fedotov and Roman Vrublevsky will tell and show

southern regions

• gooseberry

Experts strongly advise avoiding fall plantings

• Autumn planting will not cause much trouble - you can limit yourself to one watering, and nature itself will complete the rest. Autumn weather and rains will provide a seedling required humidity soil and comfort. The fact is that, despite the onset of a dormant period, the roots of the tree continue to grow until the soil cools down to a temperature of + 4 ° C. Timely planted plants will already have time to grow thin absorbent roots by the onset of stable frosts and in the new season they will start growing two or even three weeks earlier than those seedlings that were planted in the spring. ​

For the growth and development of any fruit tree, medium-fertile breathable soil is most suitable. They are very sensitive to soil acidity, which you also need to take into account before planting them.

• The earth is mixed with fertilizer, and at this stage the planting depth is taken into account. The installation of seedlings takes place near the peg with north side, the roots are straightened, covered with a fruitful layer. The layer is crushed, providing shelter to the roots. Also, the entire pit is filled with soil and compacted. Next, an earth mound is formed. Cherries are watered with two buckets of water. The soil is mulched with sawdust. Cherry, or rather, its seedling, is tied to a peg, so the possible subsidence of the tree is taken into account. Before digging a hole, you need to remove the top fertile layer earth and put it side by side without mixing with the rest of the soil. You will need it when you mix organic and mineral fertilizers. At this stage, you will need to return the removed land to the pit. Pears;
• The place must be prepared in advance. If you plant in the spring, then the pits need to be prepared in the fall, you can even in August. And for the autumn planting, pits are dug out in 1-2 months. The depth of the pit is about 60 - 80 cm, about 1 meter in diameter. It is better to plant trees in autumn. In these parts, autumn is long, warm, with occasional rains, which is “the very thing” for seedlings. But spring here too quickly can be replaced by a hot summer. Seedlings that ​How to dig seedlings
• - from October to mid-November Honeysuckle not winter-hardy varieties fruit trees and shrubs:
• This saves time In cases where the acidity of the soil is above or below neutral, then the plants will absorb nutrients very poorly, but if you chose a place with a neutral level for planting acidic soil, then heavy metals will accumulate there. Autumn planting involves hilling 35 centimeters in height, thus freezing the roots is achieved. When the snow begins to melt, the landing is unpacked. It is not difficult to choose the right varieties that can grow and develop, given the climatic conditions of the Moscow region, if you understand each of them, given their fitness.

As organic matter when planting fruit trees in the fall, rotted manure and compost are suitable. You will need approximately 15-30 kg for each hole. Organics must be well rotted. The mineral apricots;

• When you dig a hole, lay the top layer of soil separately from the bottom, and then swap them. First, you should put a bucket of well-rotted manure or loose peat on the bottom of the pit. The planting depth of the seedling is important.
• dug ahead of schedule
• For storage from autumn to spring planting.
• The timing is dictated by the weather. Each year, the borders can “float” and differ significantly from the dates of previous years. There were years when it was possible to plant trees until the last days of November.​
• birch
• Pears
• Pure " human factor"- the autumn planting of trees will free the summer resident of strength and time for other garden chores, which in the spring will be" above his head. Autumn planting is especially favorable in the southern regions, where winters are “warm”. The earth does not freeze to the depth of the roots, and young trees are not threatened with hypothermia and freezing. ​
• In this case, the diameter and depth of the pit for the future landing is also of no small importance. That is, the roots of seedlings in the pit should be located freely. It is also recommended to drive a stake 125 - 140 centimeters long into the center of the pit, so that in the future a seedling could be tied to it. Thanks to this, we will be able to save the tree from bending and loosening by the wind.​

​Yes different varieties, which differ in height, fruit size, winter resistance. Cherry varieties such as Apukhtinskaya, Lyubskaya, Molodezhnaya differ from each other, and they can all withstand frosts, and give a good harvest in spring, and this is exactly what a gardener who wants to decorate his garden like beautiful fruit crop. Fertilizers are selected individually for each tree.

What trees and shrubs take root well during autumn planting

• plums;
• To do this, you need to be able to determine the root collar. At this point, the bark (trunk) passes into root system. It is quite easy to determine it by changing the color of the trunk from greenish to light brown. When you plant a seedling, you need to leave the root neck 3-6 cm above the ground level, and after the earth shrinks, it will be just at the soil boundary.
• (before natural leaf fall) most often have unripened shoots and almost always freeze slightly. If you bought a landing " beautiful tree"with leaves, you risk getting not only unripe, but also
• Basement storage
• An important reference point
• Walnut
• ​Apple trees
• Strong
• When planting, it is also necessary to take into account the fact that the soil in the pit will gradually settle due to which we need to plant the seedling in such a way that root collar was on the same level with the topsoil.
• Gardeners recommend planting cherries in the hills.
• Broken branches are removed from the seedling before planting, and the roots are not touched (only unhealthy ones can be removed). Before planting, you need to lower the roots of the seedling into a mash (clay with water in the consistency of sour cream). The open root system should be wrapped in wet burlap and several layers of newspaper and left for several days.

peaches;

Watering:

• overdried seedling ​ ​ ​ ​

• chestnut Plums frost
• Before planting, it is also necessary to carefully examine the seedling, we cut off diseased, damaged branches and roots to healthy wood, do not leave broken, soaked or split roots. A layer of fertile soil is provided for the root system, the roots are provided with oxygen, and the planting warms up well when spring. So on the hill you can get a harvest much earlier. On a hill, it is easier to adjust the height of the soil at the neck, it should be poured if it does not settle after watering, reducing the height of the hill. It is advisable to plant seedlings in the same position to the cardinal points in which they grew in the nursery. Having installed the seedling in the prepared pit, we sprinkle it and trample it well, and then pour it abundantly with water.

cherries;

• A common misconception among many gardeners is that seedlings should not be watered immediately after planting. This is a big mistake. The tree needs abundant watering, even if it's rainy outside, because the main loss of moisture comes through sheet plate. And how to choose the right seedling, you can learn from the article General recommendations on the choice of seedlings and planting fruit trees

If you moisten the roots of seedlings abundantly and lower them into a container filled with peat, sawdust or sand, then at temperatures from 0 ° C to + 10 ° C and a relative humidity of 87-90%, they will be perfectly preserved in the basement until planting. It is only necessary to water these seedlings in the basement every 7-10 days. The best time for planting (transplanting) any seedlings is the period of theirwillow apricot Able to destroy immature trees.​Before planting a fruit tree seedling, we still need to start preparing a hole for it in advance. For example, for spring planting, a hole can be prepared in the fall, and during autumns - in spring. But you can also dig a hole two weeks before planting. In the video, a woman talks about which cherry seedling to buy and demonstrates how to plant it.​
​Beautiful blooming cherry is every gardener's dream. Cherry ranks second in popularity among all garden crops. The best time for planting is considered to be spring. But at the same time, some gardeners argue that planting cherries in the fall is much more effective, and transplanting can only be done when the bush was planted in an inappropriate place.

• Cherries.
• Watering is carried out in 2 stages, spending at least 2 buckets of water per tree. This procedure is necessary for uniform subsidence of the soil and easier survival.​
• The main thing is to remember: Nature will turn her hands to any of her offspring, and we should try to “hand over” healthy mature seedlings with a good root system to her in the most favorable time. Then it will not be necessary for a young tree to sit on a “sick leave” for years and receive a “disability” by its coming of age. If everything is done correctly, no matter what season we plant - in autumn, summer or spring - the tree will respond with cheerful growth, excellent development and a rich harvest.

Snowfall biological dormancy coniferous trees

• Peach Winter is rich in

When digging a planting hole, the excavated soil from the arable (upper) horizon must be folded on one side, and from the subsurface (lower) layers - on the other.

• Before planting fruit trees, you need to plan a site for planting. First you need to choose the type of fruit trees that will be placed in the future garden. If space is limited, then choose dwarf fruit trees. Apart from the fact that such trees occupy a smaller area, they are also more convenient to care for. Preparing for planting cherries in the fall is very important, and the ability of seedlings to take root depends on many factors. The preparation steps should include preparing a pit for planting, fertilizing, following the technique, soil quality and timing. The tree does not like to be replanted, and it is best to choose a place for planting in advance. Correctly transplant only in early spring, since over the summer the tree has time to get used to the new soil and acclimatize.

Such fruit trees take root well in the fall:

Garter and pruning of fruit trees: For several years in a row I tried to plant gooseberries on my site. I took different varieties, planted in different places, but it doesn't work for me. Maybe the whole point is that I planted it in the spring, and he did not have time to take root before the heat? I read your article, I'll try, as you advised, to plant it now. I really love this berry. Let's see, suddenly it will be accepted. ​.​ ​ ​Cherries Stressful situations for seedlings The diameter of the pit should be about 1 meter and the depth 0.6 m. For backfilling, we take the top layer of deposited fertile soil. In cases where the soil is infertile, then we need to apply organic fertilizers there a week before planting (these fertilizers are mixed with the soil). garden plot allows you to do this, you can use high-scale fruit trees for planting. But at the same time, you need to remember that it will be more difficult to care for them or harvest them than in the first case. If the seedlings were bought in October, it is best to save them until spring. It is not necessary to plant them, because they will not have time to become strong during the cold season. Autumn planting can be very productive if done in October. Before the procedure, it is necessary to carry out some work on preparing the soil and seedlings. Climatic conditions play an important role in this matter, which also affects the choice of variety. There is an opinion that it is impossible to grow a good cherry crop in the Moscow region because of the cold climate. In fact, this issue can be resolved, and from this article you can learn how to care for cherries in order to get a rich harvest, and the tree does not freeze at the first frost.Winter-hardy apple trees; A young tree definitely needs support to avoid seedling tilt and root breakage. Pruning is carried out in the spring. The cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees above the kidney, which looks into outside crowns.​ ​I value the post.Thanks Again. Cool. A very good and well thought out article. I have always wanted to plant coniferous trees, and your article and the Berso-Design company advise planting in the fall, I will try. I will plant in October. The needles are very useful, I want to make baths for the child. Last year, in the fall, I received seedlings by mail, I decided to plant them in the spring. Posted in cold cellar, the roots were in a container with sawdust. I watered them every 10 days, as they dried, and this lasted about 3 months. In February, I decided to make holes in the bottom of the container, five liters of water flowed out, although the sawdust was completely dry on top. As a result, out of five seedlings, only one was accepted.
This is the storage of seedlings on the street: properly packed, they hibernate under a sufficient layer of snow, using its magical power to prevent the temperature around the living stems from dropping below the “living level”

Irina, Bender

His coming is evidenced by

Vasily, Kostroma

The optimal period for autumn tree planting is considered to be the end of September and the whole of October, and possibly even the beginning or middle of November, if the weather is warm.

The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengeroth in an article with the expressive title "Plant trees in autumn or spring?" made some interesting arguments on the subject.

wise thought

"Autumn planting succeeds the better, the sooner it can be done."

confusing case

“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preponderance is in the direction of spring planting, and not autumn.

Although autumn planting cannot be considered impossible either ... A tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when during the summer the grown shoots have fully grown and matured, i.e. from September to October (the further south, the earlier you can start transplant; for example, in the Saratov province, you can start at the end of August); in the spring, now, as the earth has thawed, - until the buds begin to bloom.

The information is correct, but it is not yet clear: autumn or spring? However, the author goes on to talk about his experience "in the Baltic region and other northern provinces."

Autumn wins

“Having been gardening and planting trees for over 25 years… I have stuck to the following: I have always given preference to autumn planting, except when I had to plant on extremely clay, wet soil. If planting is done in early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, but the sap movement in it has not completely stopped, then it will have time to give young roots before the onset of frost, as well as partly root cuts. swim. Such a tree will winter well and next spring will quickly grow. The later the transplant is made, the less the tree has time to take root and in the spring it is more slowly accepted, and sometimes in the winter part dies from severe frosts. At planted in autumn trees, it is necessary to cut the leaves so that they do not evaporate the reserve moisture, since the perception nutrients before the appearance of new roots stops.

True, in very cold areas and on damp cold soils, it should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, subsoil water can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on moist soil, spring planting has its bad sides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then from summer heat the soil soon dries up, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly accepted.

Confirmation from the Volga region

“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely perish in the very first winter.

I did not believe this, and when, finally, in the autumn of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... To finally resolve the controversial issue, I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I wrapped them with dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops in a thin layer, and - handed over to the power of winter. In one garden, all the trees began to grow, in the other, 2 apple trees and 2 pears died.

And in the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared before his eyes: “About 50% of apple trees and the same number of pears were healthy, about 10% of apple trees and 50% of pears died, and the rest of the apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable.”

According to the journal "Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture"

* in the article we are talking only about seedlings with an open root system

Personal experience

Get your sleigh ready in summer

Frost on bare ground is a nightmare for many summer residents. Especially for those who can visit their garden only on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!

Since during my gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting frost without snow with useless moans and throwing, I recently made it a rule to prepare for a possible sharp cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.

Firstly, plants that will have to be covered for the winter are best prepared for this early, even if the aesthetics of the garden suffer from this. For example, bend down and lightly sprinkle with earth large-leaved hydrangeas, lay climbing and shrub roses until their branches become brittle from the cold. It doesn't hurt to throw nonwoven fabric: in the absence of snow from frost, of course, it will not save, but it will help to “soften the blow” with a sharp drop in temperature.

Secondly, be sure to mulch the tree trunks of heat-loving trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of "sour", for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, coniferous litter, sawdust. For others - compost, mowed grass, fallen leaves. This can be done back in September or October, without rushing and without arranging rush jobs for yourself on the eve of severe frosts. In addition, I mulch the soil in flower beds with perennials. In the event of a sharp cold snap, the wet earth literally "explodes", which often leads to damage to the root system. BUT thick layer mulch will save you from this trouble.

Thirdly, it is worth preparing a “strategic reserve” of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak is best, but in the absence of such, you can use any that is at hand. I usually carve out half an hour, rake the leaves under the nearest trees and collect them in big garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as a heater instead of snow.

S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region

What trees to plant in autumn? This question is the most popular in the autumn. And the soils of all regions are different, and weather differ in the regions of our country. What should be done when planting young seedlings, in spring or autumn? Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Theoretically, you can always plant, as long as the ground is not frozen. But if you start taking into account the accompanying natural climatic factors, then you can get confused. All the same, it will be more comfortable for each type of tree to take root in a new place under certain conditions. Now it is autumn in the yard, so it would be more logical to consider autumn varieties trees.

Positive and negative factors when planting a tree in autumn

Planting trees and shrubs in the fall has its own characteristics, which are worth understanding. When the beds and harvesting are over, the favorable free time has come for planting seedlings. There is still some time before frost, during which the tree will get used to the new conditions a little.

Benefits of an autumn planting:

Benefit.

In autumn there is a large selection from nurseries and from private gardeners. As a rule, leaves may be present on the branches, their appearance, as well as the appearance of the roots, makes it possible to judge the health of the seedling, and there may even be fruits that can also be immediately appreciated.

Simplicity.

Now the planted tree can be watered occasionally, that, in fact, is all the care at this stage. Mild autumn and rains will help to take root and adapt to a new place. The roots will continue to grow until the soil temperature is +4C, during which time the absorbent roots will have time to stretch out, and in the spring they will immediately go into active growth, unlike newly planted trees, which need time to adapt.

Saving time.

In the spring, the chores in the garden and vegetable garden will be so full, and we will also spend time planting, while in the fall we plant in the time already free from active work.

If you live in the southern regions, then there are generally mild winters, the ground is free from freezing, and the trees are not in danger of freezing.

Cons of the autumn landing:

• If winter comes early, frost can kill young trees.
• Snowfalls, icing can break fragile branches.
• How late autumn, and in winter, rodents can damage seedlings.
• Newly planted trees in the absence of the owners can simply be dug / stolen.

Here we are talking about which trees are best planted in the fall. Unless the varieties are winter-hardy, then do not plant in the fall:

• cherry.
• Almond.
• Apricot.
• Apple tree.
• pear.
• Plum.
• Peach.
• Sweet cherry.

If seedlings were brought from the south, they should not be planted before winter either, they simply may not survive it.

Trees with shrubs that take root well in autumn planting

• Winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.
• Coniferous trees.
• Aronia.
• Chestnut.
• Currant.
• Nut.
• Gooseberry.
• Raspberries.
• Birch.
• Honeysuckle.

The best time for autumn planting

Of course, it is worth observing the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees in the fall. Look at the weather, usually the time favorable for planting is the end of September and the whole of October - the month, but if the autumn turned out to be long and warm, then even the beginning and middle of November will do.

• In the middle zone of our country, a favorable landing occurs in mid-September - mid-October.
• In the northern regions, the beginning of September - the beginning of October.
• In the south - from October to mid-November.

Focus on the weather. Every year, due to it, the deadlines can be shifted in both directions. The seedling will let you know that it is time to replant it, throwing off the last foliage.

If you suddenly missed the landing time?

What to do if in the right time there was no money, they didn’t find the right variety, they were waiting for the last sale, and they chose another variety that is undesirable to plant in the fall?

There are ways to help you out in a similar situation. It is only necessary to create conditions for the seedling for wintering. It can be done:

• I dug into the ground.
• snowing method.
• Store the tree in a damp cellar or basement.

Snowing.

Having properly packed, covering the seedling with a thick layer of snow, which will protect it from freezing, it can be stored until spring and planted when the frosts finally recede and the earth warms up.

Basement storage.

We moisten the roots and lower the tree into a container with peat, which is also moist. At a temperature of 0C - 10C and with a humidity of 87 - 90%, there is every chance to survive until spring, just do not forget to water the container with peat once a week.

Now you have learned which fruit trees can be planted in the fall. For middle lane, the Urals and Siberia, zoned varieties are best suited for autumn planting, they are already acclimatized and will quickly take root. If the varieties are Ural and Siberian selection, then this is a guaranteed success when planting, these apple and pear trees, cherry plum, mulberry and mountain ash will survive the winter without any problems.

In the southern latitudes, landing in autumn - the best option, because the mild and warm autumn will give the trees abundant watering, while the spring there is quickly replaced by a burning summer.

If the seedlings are dug up before the last foliage has flown, then this is a risk group in terms of freezing in winter due to unripened shoots.

And if tempted to beautiful view, bought a seedling with not fallen leaves. then it will be unripened, and even overdried, through the leaves there is an intense loss of moisture.

Finally

From this article, you were able to find out until what time you can plant trees in the fall. If you correctly guess the landing time, then nature will do everything itself, the main thing is not to interfere with it. A properly accustomed tree will delight you for many years, and even your grandchildren with rich and tasty harvests.

If you're planning on planting fruit trees this spring, it's time to buy seedlings from a nursery and start planting trees. How to do it right - why you don’t need to dig deep holes for planting trees, trample the ground near the roots and dig it up every year afterwards, says Galina Kizima.

Planting trees: how to prepare the site

A year before planting a fruit tree, take a fancy to the place where you will plant a tree, and right on the virgin soil, start laying a compost pile in an area with a diameter of at least a meter and a height of up to 60–70 cm in the spring. tall (upright) marigolds. It's the best. But you can also plant seeds of an ornamental or real sunflower, or seedlings of corn, or sow seeds annual dahlias"Funny boys".

Just throw a bunch together with the plantings surrounding it in the fall to the mercy of fate. Fertilizers do not need to be applied, watering too. The frosts will break the stalks of the decorations, and they themselves will fall on the soil around the pile. Let them lie there. By next spring, the pile will settle down to the required 25-30 cm, and carefully spread everything that is lying around it around the pile.

How to plant trees

Tree planting is best done in spring (in the northern regions in May). Just straighten the roots of the seedling on the settled mound, slightly shortening the ends of the roots and cutting out the broken and diseased ones, drive in 3 stakes at an angle so that they can be tied around the seedling.

And fill the roots with soil to a height of about 15–20 cm. It is necessary to pour the soil gradually, spilling each layer with water from a watering can. Water will wash the soil down and fill all voids with it.

If you are used to tying seedlings to two stakes, then drive them not from the south and north of the seedling, as recommended in books (explanations on this are unintelligible), but drive the stakes in the direction of the prevailing winds in your area.

For example, in the North-West, western winds prevail, which means that stakes must be driven in from the west and east of the seedling. Then the strapping will keep the seedling from swinging in the wind.

In subsequent years, the hill should be expanded. To do this, it is enough to pour around it once every 2–3 years during the summer. compost heap, and so that the perimeter of the tree has a neat appearance, each time pour peat or sand over the garbage and weeded weeds.

If you use peat, then remember that it acidifies the soil under the apple tree, and it prefers soil with a neutral reaction, so you must add ash to the peat at the rate of a half-liter jar for each bucket of peat.

The required feeding area for an apple or pear tree is approximately 4x4 sq. m, so gradually expand your landing pile to approximately these sizes.

Planted a tree: what's next?

Immediately after planting, be sure to shorten all branches and the central conductor by about a quarter of their length (this, of course, can be done before planting). The fact is that a plant develops correctly when there is a balance between its root system and the aerial part.

When planting a seedling, its root system is broken, the root sucking hairs are torn off, and the seedling does not supply moisture well to the top. And the leaves at the same time evaporate moisture as if nothing had happened, so the trunk dehydrates.

Sometimes, after planting, the following picture is observed: they planted a bush or a tree, the plant spread its leaves and suddenly for no reason dried up, despite abundant watering. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to shorten the aerial part of the plant when planting, that is, to shorten the central conductor and all branches by a quarter of their length. Then the balance between the weakened root system and the aerial part too large for it will be restored, and the seedling will take root well.

All summer you will put food waste and weeds on the roots of the seedling and lightly sprinkle them with soil (or sand, peat).

Fruit tree seedlings: clay talker or "Kornevin"?

There are many myths and misconceptions associated with planting fruit trees. Let's take a look at those that have especially taken root in popular books for gardeners.

All authors recommend that before planting fruit trees, dip the roots of the seedling in a clay mash. The question is why? The roots supposedly take root better. Is it so? As is well known, clay does not allow moisture to pass through, so the roots do not dry out, but they cannot take water from the soil either. What's good here? And where did this recommendation come from?

But where. In the old days, seedlings of fruit trees from the nursery were carried on horseback far and long. Therefore, so that the roots would not dry out along the way, they were dipped in a clay mash, wrapped in wet canvas and wrapped in sackcloth, tied with a rope and taken for a long time. But when the seedlings were brought to the place, they were necessarily placed in water for 2–3 hours before planting, so that the clay was washed off the roots and they were saturated with moisture.

Someone wrote off the first part from old books, but forgot to write about the second, and so this clay talker went from book to book.

So no talkers, but just the opposite: put the seedling before planting in the water for 2 hours and then immediately plant it. And even better if you add any root former to the water, for example "Kornevin". If there is no "Kornevin", it does not matter. Ordinary honey is an excellent rooter (one tablespoon per bucket of water is enough for a seedling, and one teaspoon per glass is enough for a cutting).

And never keep seedlings in water for a long time, they will lose a significant part of potassium, and this will have a bad effect on their survival and further growth.

Planting seedlings: why trample the ground?

There is another very common misconception. It is recommended to trample the soil around the seedling after planting. This is explained by the fact that the soil should fill the voids under the roots and stick to the roots from all sides. Moreover, it is recommended to start trampling down from the periphery, gradually approaching the trunk so as not to break off the roots.

Wherever you start to stomp, break off anyway if you have weights under 80 kg. Moist soil compacted by trampling does not allow air to pass through, and the roots will experience oxygen starvation, and the voids under the roots cannot be filled with any trampling.

In order for the soil to fill the voids and it sticks to the roots from all sides, it is necessary not to trample at all, but gradually pour the soil on top of the roots and immediately pour water from the watering can, pour it again, and water it again. Here the water will wash the soil into the voids, and will stick around all the roots with moist soil, and besides, it will leave free air access to the roots.

Fruit Tree Seedlings: Don't Plant Deep!

Big mistake - deep landing seedling. This usually leads to a delay in the timing of the entry of the tree into fruiting. In addition, deep planting contributes to the appearance of abundant root shoots, especially for plums and cherries.

Trees should generally stand on their roots. Thick roots extending from the trunk are a conductive sewerage and plumbing system, so to speak. These roots do not absorb anything, but only conduct nutrient juices up and down. They are not afraid of frost and have the same frost resistance as the wood itself.

But the tender suction part of the root system, young thin roots can freeze slightly. They are usually located along the perimeter of the tree crown. That's why they need to be well taken care of. Feed, water, cover for the winter if you have snowless or too harsh winters.

In the northern regions, tree roots extend quite far beyond the crown perimeter. For what self-respecting tree will climb into groundwater, dense illuvial layers, or sand and clay?

Since the roots do not go deep into cold and barren soils, but prefer to spread out in breadth in a small arable soil layer, they are vulnerable to large sudden frosts after a thaw. Therefore, I recommend not to rake the leaves in autumn, but, on the contrary, to throw them around the trees. And so that the wind does not blow them away, sprinkle a little sand, peat or any soil on top. Do not be afraid of pests and pathogens wintering on leaves, they are no more and no less than during spring and autumn digging of tree trunks.

Trunk circles of trees: do not dig!

The recommended digging of trunk circles, and even twice a year, is also, by the way, a delusion. Never dig in the soil near the trunks, either in spring or autumn! Do not keep her under steam, that is, naked. The soil must be covered, otherwise it collapses.

The easiest way is to make lawn bentgrass shoot-bearing (low grass with roots that lie only at a depth of 2-3 cm, and therefore do not interfere with other plants, growing rapidly due to rooting shoots, giving such a dense turf that you can play football). But it must be mowed as soon as it grows 10 cm in height, until late autumn, otherwise everything will seed around. This is the most comfortable lawn grass, it is not for nothing that golf courses are sown with it.

Whitewashing garden trees: when is it right?

Spring whitewashing of trees is truly a nationwide stupidity. Why is whitewashing fruit trees done? That's right, to protect the trunks, firstly, from frost holes, and secondly, from solar spring burns, thirdly - from rodents. Well, which of these three points is performed during spring whitewashing? That's right, nothing. Whitewashing, and even better - the correct shelter of tree trunks should be done in the fall!

author Galina Kizima Enthusiast gardener with 50 years of experience, author of original methods

Comment on the article "Planting fruit trees in spring: 3 rules and 5 myths"

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correct and timely landing fruit tree - the key to its successful growth, rapid fruiting and high annual yields. The answer to the question: when is it better to plant, in spring or autumn, is not decisive. It is more important to choose the right period. Optimal time planting or transplanting seedlings is the period of their biological dormancy. To make sure that the period of active vegetation of a tree is over, it is enough to check the condition of its shoots (they must be lignified along the entire length) and apical buds (they must be fully formed).

When planting in autumn, a tree should be planted 30 to 45 days before the soil freezes. For the climatic zone of middle latitudes, the timing of autumn planting of seedlings is limited to the middle or end of September and the beginning of November (in conditions warm winters). In this case, the seedling will have time to take root well before the onset of the first pre-winter frosts, and the plant receives some advantage for a successful and earlier spring development compared to trees that are planned to be planted next spring. In addition, planting trees in the fall saves time for spring gardening. Another plus for choosing autumn terms plantings - this is a rich choice and varietal variety of seedlings offered by various nurseries.

Subject to the basic technological rules, such fruit crops as apple, pear, cherry, plum and walnut are distinguished by good survival both during autumn and spring plantings. More heat-loving peaches, cherries, some varieties of pears and apricots are recommended to be planted in spring to reduce the risk of winter freezing. For representatives of conifers (pine, spruce, juniper, cedar, fir) and some deciduous trees (chestnut, birch, oak, walnut), spring planting dates are also preferable, as they have a longer survival period and may not get stronger enough before the onset of winter period.

If a decision is made to lay the foundation of the future garden in the spring, then one should be guided by the principle: the sooner the better. As soon as the snow cover begins to melt and the soil freezes, you can dig planting holes and plant trees. At spring planting even a slight delay can be unfavorable for further development seedlings: their survival rate is deteriorating, the growth rate is decreasing, and ultimately the beginning of tree fruiting is delayed. This factor is especially critical for berry crops(currant, raspberry, gooseberry), which are characterized by very early development. Therefore, it is better to plant them in the fall. Autumn planting is also recommended for container trees or seedlings with a closed root system (with an earthen clod), provided that their roots are in good condition (no mechanical damage, frostbite, drying out, etc.).

the best planting material for fruit trees, annual seedlings are used, since older trees take root worse, are more easily injured as a result of shortening of skeletal branches. When transplanting 3-5-year-old trees, a delay in the beginning of the fruiting period is observed, while one-year-olds obtained by winter grafting of direct crops are ahead of even two-year-old seedlings in precocity. The day before planting, seedlings (root system) are placed in a container with clean water, and immediately before being placed in the planting pit, the roots of the plants are dipped in clay mash(1 part clay and 2 parts mullein, diluted in 5 to 7 parts of water), not allowing them to dry out in the slightest.

Under normal conditions, on cultivated soils, the size of the planting pits should ensure the free location of the root system of the seedling. In conditions loose sand the basic technology for preparing the pits is also not very different. But the preliminary dimensions should be much larger: the width is from 1.5 to 2 m, and the depth is up to 1 m. The sand dug from the pit is distributed evenly over the surface of the entire area, and a small (8 - 10 cm) layer is laid on the bottom of the pit clay and is well compacted in order to create isolation from the action of groundwater and to prevent the loss of sedimentary and irrigation moisture. Next, the hole should be filled fertile soil. After 4 - 5 years, when the seedlings grow up, and their root system penetrates beyond the planting pit, it will be possible to equip additional grooves around them with a depth of about 0.6 m, filling them with a nutrient soil mixture that will provide the plants with the necessary mineral and organic fertilizers at the next stage of their development.

To protect the seedlings from damage by the larvae of the May beetle, an insecticidal preparation is applied to the bottom of the pit during planting or they are used folk remedies(a decoction of onion or garlic peel, chopped eggshell, bleach solution, etc.). The prepared nutrient soil mixture fills the planting pit to one third of its height (0.35 - 0.4 m), pouring soil into the center so that a cone is formed. Prepare the soil mixture from 3 - 4 buckets fertile soil and 2 buckets of compost (humus or peat), which are thoroughly mixed.

The quality of planting work, namely accuracy and accuracy, determine the success of the further development of fruit trees. Should be paid Special attention to the depth of placement of the seedling in the planting pit, sufficient soil compaction during planting and the correct placement of seedlings in the place determined during marking (between neighboring plants and in a row).

During planting, all the roots of the tree should be evenly spread over the surface of the earthen cone. It is important to avoid bending and wringing even the smallest seedling roots. Sprinkling the root system with earth, it is necessary to periodically shake the seedling, slightly lifting it up, and compact the soil to avoid the formation of voids and air pockets. The roots of the plant should be in contact with the soil as closely as possible to better provide the tree with nutrients.

If support is not necessary for one-year-old seedlings, then for two-year-old and older trees, vertical support pegs should be pre-strengthened in the bottom of the pit, with which the plant stem is fixed (after 3-4 days, when the soil settles). For annual seedlings, during autumn planting, protection from cold and wind load is created in the form of an earthen mound, poured around the trunk to a height of 30 cm.

It is very convenient to water seedlings by filling with water (3-4 buckets) a circular ditch dug along the edge of the near-trunk circle. To reduce the amount of watering and maintain the proper level of moisture in the soil, a piece of land under a tree is mulched with sawdust, peat chips, grass residues, rotted leaves, etc.