The better to process the lining. How to process the lining so that it lasts for many years

Lining is a finishing material that looks good in the interior of a wooden house. It is used for both residential and commercial premises. The wood from which it is made needs to be treated with protective agents. And to give an attractive appearance, a decorative coating is applied to the lining. Naturally, to create a beautiful coating, you need to choose the right processing tools and decor materials.

Why process lining and how to choose the right funds

Before processing the lining, you should find out:

• Do I need to apply a protective coating, or can I do without it;
• in what rooms the processing will be carried out - in dry or with high humidity;
• whether to apply a decorative coating, tint or leave it natural.

Having decided, you can proceed to the choice of impregnation and material for decorative lining of the lining in the interior. You can leave the lining uncoated, but this option is suitable for people who are satisfied with the fact that the tree darkens over time. Some owners specifically do artificial aging with a blowtorch. After this, it not only darkens, but also releases resin, which gives the surface an individuality. It happens that the owners of the baths do not process the walls due to the fact that they use cheap lining. It will be more practical for them to change it completely in a few years than to spend time and money on processing it.

In order to properly process the walls, you should know what functions the impregnation for lining inside the house should perform. So, the impregnation should:

• give good protection against ignition, such qualities are given to wooden products by fire retardants, which reduce its combustibility;
• protect from moisture, especially in damp areas. To do this, antiseptic agents are applied to the wooden surface;
• protect from mechanical damage (chips and scratches);
• protect from exposure to ultraviolet rays. Wood treated with UV-resistance products changes color more slowly;
• provide bactericidal protection against insects;
• give the walls a beautiful look. You can give the lining the desired shade using toning. Using varnish, you can make the surface glossy, matte or semi-gloss.

To give the tree the necessary properties, usually several compounds are used that have the necessary qualities.

Types of compositions - fire retardants, stains, varnishes and paints

All compositions for processing lining can be divided into two groups: protective and decorative. The first are designed to extend the service life. They protect against moisture, insects, the formation of fungus, mold. The latter give the lining an attractive appearance. Processing must be updated regularly, as funds lose their properties over time. Processing of lining in the premises is carried out by the compositions listed below.

Flame retardants reduce the combustibility of wood. This is especially important for living rooms. In the event of a fire, flame retardants prevent the spread of fire, help to extinguish it. They are odorless and therefore harmless to health.

Antiseptics protect against the formation of mold and fungus. Stop the spread of existing mold. Over time, the product is washed out and evaporates, so re-treatment is required. There are bio moisture protective agents that not only protect against fungus, mold, pests, but also give the tree water-repellent qualities and an attractive appearance. They are expensive, but they make it possible to refuse treatment with stain, antiseptic and varnish.

The stain performs antiseptic functions, but at the same time gives the wooden surface a shade. The most popular are stains that give dark shades. This tool does not create a film on the surface, but penetrates into the pores of the material to a small depth. Stained wood should be varnished, otherwise the surface looks dirty. Drying oil was previously very popular, but recently it has been used less and less. The tree quickly darkens, and after 2-3 years the surface becomes sticky. It is used for business premises.

Bleaches are designed to remove dark spots, areas with a blue tint, stripes from wooden surfaces. There are several types of such funds, differing in application and effectiveness. Usually the product is applied to the surface and washed off after a certain time.

Varnishes are used if you want to preserve the naturalness and texture of wood. Indoors, acrylic varnishes are used that are harmless to human health. The first layer is applied transparent, without dyes, and coloring pigments are added to the second. Alkyd varnishes are more used for floors, as they have high strength properties. They are applied to walls in places where high mechanical loads are possible. Wax mixtures can serve as an alternative, which protect the wood and give the surface a semi-gloss shine.

Oil paint penetrates deeply into wood, provides good protection against moisture, and is resistant to mechanical damage. Used for decorative finishing. Disadvantages: low vapor permeability, dries for a long time, loses color over time. Acrylate paint is in many ways superior to its oil counterpart: it dries quickly, does not fade over time, penetrates well into pores, gives a rich color, and has high vapor barrier qualities. Does not crack if the panels led from temperature changes. This paint has one drawback - the high cost.

Technology for applying protection and decorative coatings

A novice builder at the finishing stage has to master new technologies. It is necessary to nail the lining correctly, to know how and with what to process it, to perform a decorative finish. The coating of the material with the selected means is carried out in stages. Before processing, prepare the lining.

1. 1. First, it should be cleaned of contaminants with a solution. To do this, dilute soda in warm water. Wash the lining with this solution. If there is an old layer of paint, for better adhesion, it is advisable to completely remove the previous layer in order to remove cracks and peeling.
2. 2. Inspect the cleaned lining: remove mold, fungus, treat darkened spots with bleach. Finally, the panels should be wiped with a clean rag to completely remove dirt and paint residue. If there are damaged panels, they must be replaced.
3. 3. At the next stage, we perform surface grinding. The operation is performed with a pumice stone or fine-grained sandpaper. So that there are no unpolished places left, divide the entire wall into small sections and process them sequentially. Grinding perform evenly, trying not to rub in one place and not to apply great efforts.
4. 4. The final step in preparing the lining for applying funds is priming. We apply a layer of primer to the wall with a brush or spray gun. Particular care must be taken to process the seams between the panels. One layer is enough. Sometimes a paint composition is used as a primer.

By itself or with a brush. For painting, prepare two brushes: narrow and medium - with the help of a narrow one, hard-to-reach places are stained. In order for the coating to serve for a long time and be durable, you need to apply 2-3 thin layers. The coloring procedure is as follows:

• mix the paint and pour it into a small container;
• dip the brush in the paint to half the bristles;
• before applying, press the brush to the surface and smoothly guide along the panel;
• then the paint is similarly applied in one direction over the entire surface, without affecting the painted areas;
• paint corners and openings with a narrow brush.

Start applying the paint from the top so that there are no streaks. To eliminate color differences, apply a layer at a time. If necessary, interrupt work should be left in a place that is not visible. The next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. We make the final layer of the minimum thickness, apply with light uniform movements from top to bottom.

Lacquer is applied in the same way. If the product is tinted, then before applying it should be thoroughly mixed and periodically stirred during operation. We add less coloring pigment to each subsequent layer, in this case the surface after staining will acquire a deeper and more attractive sheen.

Both internal and external wall cladding with clapboard is an excellent solution for the owner who cares about the condition of his home. Interior decoration will create a cozy and wellness atmosphere in the room. The outer one will protect the facade of the building from unnecessary damage.

In this article, we will dwell in detail on why the lining should be treated, what protective composition is better to do this, what is the technology for applying paints and varnishes, and also what amount should be calculated when painting.

How to effectively protect a tree

How to process lining inside the house? This question is often asked by the owners who used it in wood.

Today, processing lining inside the house is not a problem. It is only necessary to choose the right protective coating that will fit under a particular room.

Some are more suitable for rooms with high humidity, others perfectly protect boards from ultraviolet rays, and some generally increase the strength of wood and prevent the risk of premature abrasion.

But also an important factor in processing is that protection should look good on the boards. It should not distort the natural structure of the tree. On the contrary, its task is to emphasize the naturalness of the material used and blend harmoniously with the rest of the interior.

Most often, to protect wood, the following substances are used:

• antiseptic
• bio oil
• Primer

Types of varnishes for working on wood

Speaking specifically, how to process the lining in the house, then the choice of protective mixtures is quite large.

1. Ground

Such a mixture is not only a full-fledged primer, but also an excellent bio-protective agent. Primer - antiseptic suitable for processing both indoors and outdoors.

Moreover, the use of a primer is appropriate even on an affected tree. The primer, along with a textured finish that is meant to protect, will prolong the board's longevity and keep it neat and tidy.

2. Protective and decorative

One of the main qualities of the mixture is that it gives the desired color to the wooden surface. By the way, protective and decorative coatings are an innovation in the market of paints and varnishes.

But it is very important that even when processed with such a composition, the tree structure is still visible.

They are very convenient to use, since they do not first need to use a primer, because they already contain antiseptics. Moreover, they are resistant to fading and temperature changes.

Some species are suitable for use on wet wood. They are great for indoor and outdoor work.

The final coat has a soft semi-matte tone. According to the manufacturers of these funds, the guarantee is 8 years.

3. Scuba diving

Continuing to talk about how to treat the surface inside the house, you should definitely pay attention to water-based products. For work inside the house, professionals recommend scuba diving.

Advantages of using scuba diving:

1. No smell
2. Fast intercoat drying
3. It does not contain organic solvents

For external work, products with water-repellent additives are suitable, which protect wood from dirt and moisture. Of course, it is not from the budget class, but the owner is provided with durability and ease of maintenance.

4. Oils

Quite often, the surface of the tree is treated with oils or their combined mixtures.

Oil coating provides protection against contamination, moisture and dust, due to the fact that it penetrates deep into the structure of the tree.

An important advantage when using varnish is also that there is no solvent aroma, but you can only feel the smell of the plant on which the oil was created. Moreover, this composition is very easy to tint, with which you can get the desired shade.

Tools for painting operations

We answered the question of how to process the lining, but there was one more thing left: how to process the lining inside the house?

Its importance lies in the fact that all compositions are different in consistency, so the poet should be especially careful about the selection of tools so that the application of the protective layer is convenient and effective.

An approximate list of necessary when applying paint and varnish mixtures:

• Napkins
• Scotch construction
• Scotch bright
• Sandpaper (#240)
• Tray for paint or varnish
• Roller
• brushes

Whitening

This process is the first step in painting with any composition.

It is the cleaning of the boards from any contamination.

If there are difficulties with the selection of bleach, it is best to use a special stain.

After the bleaching process is completed and the lining becomes a clean canvas, you can proceed to the second stage - priming. The third stage is the application of paint.

Whitening tools needed:

• Roller
• Tassels
• Stain (bleach)
• Solvent
• Gloves
• Eye protection glasses

Video - glazing of wooden surfaces:

We paint according to the rules

If the wooden surface has already been repeatedly painted, then before applying a fresh layer of varnish, it is necessary to evaluate the quality.

If it is still good, then you can wipe it with a 2% soda solution.

To prepare such a solution, you need 10 liters of heated water and 300 grams of soda.

After treatment with soda solution, the working surface should be puttied and treated with drying oil. After such a procedure, all the wooden surfaces in the house will change significantly.

If painting the lining inside the house happens for the first time, professionals advise adhering to a certain technology in this matter in order to avoid smudges and bumps.

Paints and varnishes should be applied with the tips of the bristles. It is very important that it be thin. Otherwise, a large amount of paint may become unusable. So that the pile does not leave a mark on the treated walls and ceiling, before painting, it is better to treat them with soapy water.

Video - how to properly process the walls inside the house:
Particular care should be taken when applying the final layer. To make the coating even, it is best to start applying the protective composition from the top. Hard-to-reach places, for example, frames, baseboards, the space near the batteries, are best painted over with a brush that has a diameter of no more than 5 cm.

It is best to start painting the door from the paneled side.

A dry brush will help prevent smudges of paints and varnishes. Brush movements upward will save the surface from unnecessary flaws.

Video - painting the house inside:

The cost of work

The price of painting a lining for one square meter is approximately 280 rubles.

One square meter of the lining itself will cost the buyer about 320 rubles. But the cost of boards is significantly influenced by the wood from which they are made and its grade.

Varnish to process wood can be bought for about 260 rubles per liter.

We hope that this article will help each owner to paint the lining with high quality, as well as to choose the right materials. Good luck with your work.

Wooden lining in our time has become very popular, especially when it comes to baths or saunas. It is used even for finishing apartments and houses, a corridor. The entrance hall, finished with clapboard, has a very good view. You can find out the dimensions of the lining by clicking on the link. But before you start buying this material, you should find out that in addition to finishing the room with clapboard, it needs to be processed in the future. This will give the lining an aesthetic appearance and extend the service life. There are several processing methods, in this article we will talk about some.

Processing lining in the bath

Why do you need to process the lining?

The lining made of natural wood needs further processing, the reasons are obvious. If, for example, lining is used for exterior decoration, its condition will be influenced by atmospheric factors - these are temperature, humidity, wind, direct sunlight. All this can lead to her deplorable state:

• Deteriorating appearance
• Mold and rot develop
• color changing
• Material deformation occurs

Not even all the changes that can happen to your lining in a year are listed here, without additional processing. Of course, if the lining is used for the interior lining of the room, the environment is softer here and therefore changes will occur more slowly.

Lining preparation

Before proceeding with the direct processing of the lining, you need to prepare it for this procedure. First of all, you need to walk with fine sandpaper to remove all the bumps and roughness from the tree. After that, you need to clean the lining from dust, a small brush is suitable for this. When all this is done, you can proceed to the direct processing of wood.

Stain application

If you are going to cover the lining with a clear varnish or wax, you first need to use a stain. It will allow not only to even out the color of the tree but also to keep it for many years. Modern materials allow not only to change the color of the tree, but also are excellent antiseptics that will protect the wood from mold and moisture penetration.

Water-based, alcohol-based and oil-based options are available for sale. They come in the form of a powder that should dissolve or ready-made - in the form of a liquid. In the end, you will have a liquid that is applied with a brush to the tree.

Applying wax to lining

If the lining will be used in the steam room of the bath, then here you can’t do without waxing it. Indeed, at high temperatures and high humidity, there is a risk of poisoning when using the wrong materials. And wax is a natural material that does not carry any troubles.

Wax is applied with a cloth, a small amount is applied in the direction of the fibers. The procedure is repeated several times. After polishing, the lining will acquire a deep, even color.

There are various wax impregnations on sale, they are also well suited for processing lining. You can learn the subtleties of their application from the product instructions.

Lacquering lining.

Lacquer is a proven means for protecting wood from an external aggressive environment. To date, there are many different products of this type. If earlier only clear varnish was used, today you can purchase varnish with a different shade.

You need to use waterproof varnish, buy not the cheapest - the best option is the average price category. It is applied in several layers, two or more. Between each layer you need a period of time to dry. Depending on the type of varnish, drying can take from 8 hours or more.

It is advisable to go over the lower layers of varnish with fine sandpaper to remove the raised pile of wood from the surface.

Processing lining inside the house - instructions

A huge number of people around the world are engaged in finishing their homes, and of course they prefer a beautiful and natural material - wooden lining. This is both environmentally friendly and natural beauty will surround you, and such material not only creates beautiful impressions, it also affects the favorable microclimate in the room.

But in order for this natural material to serve for a long time, it needs to be looked after, and most importantly, it must be done correctly. You cannot take it and paint it with ordinary paint - you will spoil all the attractiveness, the material will stop breathing, and after a short time the paint will begin to crumble.

Inside the house includes a complete set of works based on four stages:

• Training.
• Primer.
• Protection.
• Decorative staining

Preparing the lining for painting

If you use eurolining, then you can skip this step, because European manufacturers operate according to special standards, which require the mandatory primary processing of decorative wood panels with protective compounds.

For those who bought a standard domestic-made lining or will install a non-new, and already processed lining, this stage is mandatory.

Preparing a new lining

The preparation of a new wooden lining, which you purchased in one of the building materials stores, includes the following activities:

• A batch of lining, as a rule, allows regrading up to 10%, which means that the material of the first grade may contain a small amount of second-rate board. In order not to disturb the holistic appearance of the surface, the material must be carefully examined and sorted.
• The lining that you purchased before installation should be perfectly dry. Also, it should lie down in the room where the installation will be carried out for 2-3 days, so that its temperature evens out.
• Elimination of defects. Defects on the surface of the lining include bumps, blue or white spots, knots. Part of the defective lining can not be touched, because in the process of work you will need a short piece of material - for finishing over doors and windows, and you will have something to cut from. But before starting the installation, the front surfaces of the material must be cleaned of stains by bleaching.

Important!!! For such work, it is recommended to use a good bleach. Grease stains can be removed by deresining, for this they are wiped with a 25% acetone solution. Small ridges can be removed with sandpaper or a wire brush.

Unfortunately, painting a wooden lining is not a process that can be performed only once during the entire period of its life. This procedure must be repeated periodically.

Before painting or varnishing the lining, it is necessary to pre-treat its surface.

As a rule, re-painting of lining is necessary in the following cases:

1. the bottom layer of paint has peeled off;
2. lining has lost color;
3. paint or varnish has lost its luster;
4. a significant defect has appeared on the surface, for example, fungal damage;
5. the existing lining color is not suitable for the new interior of the house.

How to clean the lining from varnish, paint and dirt?
There are two ways to remove old varnish or paint from the lining surface:

• Chemically. This includes the use of various synthetic fluids and forms - washes and emollients that help the paint peel off the surface. Keep in mind that the chemical method is quite aggressive. After removing the top layer, the lining should be washed with water or wiped with white spirit.

Important!!! To carry out activities using these products, the room must be well ventilated and you must have personal protection.

• Mechanical. In this case, the top layer is removed with a metal brush, scraper or building hair dryer and spatula. To completely remove paint from wood, you can treat the surface with a solution of soda. The big disadvantage of this method is the possibility of damaging the smooth surface with a brush or scraper.

Important!!! If you can't decide which surface cleaning method is best, check out these tips:

• The mechanical method of cleaning the lining is the most suitable for removing oil paint.
• If you plan to cover it with clear varnish after cleaning the surface, then it is more profitable to prefer a mechanical method, because washes can bleach the lining unevenly.

If there are deep defects in some places of the material, they should be repaired with wood fillers.

To give a uniform structure to the wooden coating, the primer is applied with a gun or brush.

If a primer is applied before painting, this will give the wooden lining several undeniable advantages:

• improve the "adhesion" to the future surface layer - varnish or paint;
• protect the tree from moisture penetration;
• will close the pores, which will allow you to apply the finish coat more evenly;
• will reduce the consumption of decorative coating - paint or varnish.

Important!!! Some types of wood, such as pine or spruce, can release resin for quite a long time. To avoid this, the lining must be treated with a special primer that will close the wood pores.

Types of primers for lining
Varieties of primer depend on the composition. In the modern building materials market, you can find the following types of primer coating:

• Alkyd. This coating is suitable for both outdoor and indoor use. The material is adapted to different tree species, so the choice here is the most diverse.
• Acrylic. This composition is a reliable protection against all damage except rot and rust. Such a primer is suitable for use in internal repair work.
• Polystyrene primers. Due to the high toxicity, they are only suitable for outdoor work.
• Primer with PVA glue. This option is well-deservedly popular, a solution of PVA glue is prepared in a ratio of 10 drops of glue per 100 ml of water, it is applied in two layers. This is necessary in order to avoid the appearance of unprimed areas that will be visible only after complete drying.

Important!!! The disadvantages of the latter method: a whitish coating may appear on the wooden lining, such whiteness is not visible on raw wood, but on a tinted surface, this is very noticeable. It also partially hides the structure of the wood.

• Gelatin primers. As a primer, some recommend using edible gelatin. Gelatin is soaked in cold water in a ratio of 1 part gelatin to 2 parts water, then heated in a water bath until the granules are completely dissolved. The composition is cooled to a slight thickening and the lining is treated with it in 2-3 layers.

Important!!! The best chemical industrial primers for the restoration of lining are deservedly considered compositions from the following manufacturers:

• Tikkurila (Tikkurila);
• Belinka (Belinka);
• Lacra;
• Pinotex.

In order to protect the surface from scratches and other damage, it must be coated with special chemicals. These products are designed to protect wood from moisture, rot, fungal infections, insect pests and UV rays.

Methods and means for protecting wood

The specificity of such protective agents is that they become invisible when dry and penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. The use of such forms is a very important stage in the protection of lining. Manufacturers of eurolining do it at the pre-sale preparation.

Important!!! Protection and processing of lining, it is better to do it on both sides. The ends of the material should be given special attention. This is due to the fact that after installation, the end side is not stained.

You can choose these solutions to protect the material inside the house:

flame retardants. Compounds that are the basis of aqueous solutions of salts. They are designed to protect wood products from fire.

Important!!! The decorative elements made of wood that you use must definitely increase the fire resistance.

Antiseptics. These are chemical compounds that have an active antifungal effect. They are designed to protect the lining from the biological activity of various fungi and pests.

Important!!! Before installation, lining must be treated with an antiseptic. This is due to the fact that the reverse side of the plank, ends, locks also need to be treated with this tool.

Choice of finish

Natural resins, oils and waxes

In recent years, people have become more and more inclined to choose natural or so-called natural material. However, you should be aware that manufacturers and sellers can simply lure their customers with this weakness. The reason is the very vague line between "natural" and "synthetic" coatings: natural is supposed to be made from raw materials obtained from renewable sources, and only a slight chemical change in these raw materials is allowed. This product must also be biodegradable and its production, use and disposal must not adversely affect the environment.

In general, we can say that buyers are mistaken when they think that natural substances are always absolutely harmless. And among them there are those that are toxic and dangerous to human health. Many of the substances that plants contain are deadly.

Of course, such dangerous compounds do not exist in natural coatings, but you should be aware that "natural" or "bio" by itself does not provide complete safety for your health. It should also be emphasized that ordinary natural finishes, compared to synthetic paints and varnishes, have lower physical and chemical properties, and they need to be restored more often.

The natural oils that are most commonly used for surface treatment are:

• linen;
• tung;
• castor;
• hydrogenated;
• hemp;

The drying time of natural, untreated linseed oil is very long - more than a week, so it is not convenient for practical use. Thus, a special varnish is made from it, containing heat-treated linseed oil, and desiccants are added to it to speed up curing.

The best-known natural wax is beeswax, but it is quite mild for practical use. Therefore, surface treatment waxes always include the so-called carnauba wax, which increases the final hardness.

Paraffin is a synthetic product of the distillation of oil, it is also very similar in physical properties to wax - but naturally it is not a natural product.

Natural wood finishes often include various natural resins such as shellac, sandarac, or rosin as one of the ingredients.

Nitrocellulose coatings

The binder for these coatings is nitrocellulose obtained by nitration of natural polymers - cellulose. Thanks to the quality of nitrocellulose (NC) varnishes, we can include them in our list of natural materials.

NC varnishes contain acetone, ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, ethanol, aromatic alcohols and the like as solvents and thinners. Rejection physically occurs simultaneously with the volatilization of these substances. Nitrocellulose varnishes - when used on finished surfaces - are often superior to more modern varnishes, but they also have a major disadvantage: poorer resistance to some solvents - acetone for example.

In its manufacture, a high content of volatile organic solvents is important and, as a result, an inadequate impact on the environment.

Polyester varnishes

Polyester (PE) varnishes were popular in the old days, because their main feature is strength - (hardness, elasticity), the ability to achieve glossy surfaces ... But today they are little used, as they contain styrenes, which are very harmful. And they are not very well attached to a wooden surface, especially on small details.

Polyurethane varnishes

Polyurethane varnishes are products from which water-based varnishes are made. We can find them on sale in various forms - one-component and most often two-component. these varnishes are strong, with good elasticity, good adhesion, durability, high water resistance and chemical resistance.

Unfortunately, many polyurethane varnishes can change color when exposed to ultraviolet light. As for using them for flooring or furniture, this is an excellent material.

One-component polyurethane varnishes contain 20 to 30 percent dry matter and are in fact the melting of the PU prepolymer, they become hard by absorbing moisture from the air, allowing them to chemically react with carbon dioxide.

One-component PU varnishes are versatile and easy to use and must be applied in a thin layer (80 to 100 g per square meter), otherwise the surface quality will be poor.

Polycondensation varnishes with acidic binders

These varnishes are also called "acid-resistant varnishes" or "acid-resistant varnishes" in everyday speech. They contain formaldehyde resins as binders. The rejection is physico-chemical, that is, it refers to the disappearance of volatile components and the polycondensation reaction.

The catalyst that accelerates the reaction is the organic acid on which this coating group is applied. By themselves, these varnishes are hard and brittle, so alkyd and other resins are often added to them.

Polyacrylic varnishes

The binders are polyacrylates, which are used to make water-based varnish. In combination with polyurethane binders, they are also very popular as indoor treatments.

There are many different derivatives of this material, from physically drying ones that are thermoplastic to those modified compositions intended for UV curing.

Alkyd varnishes

Alkyd resins are rarely used indoors as they are most often applied to metals. However, alkyd binders are increasingly being used for outdoor wood protection as well as solvent-based clear glazing.

Wooden lining is a highly environmentally friendly and fairly durable material, the finishing of which increases the thermal insulation characteristics of the premises, improves their visual perception. However, it is, above all, wood, with its specific limitations - sensitivity to changes in humidity inside rooms, the possibility of fungus formation and sometimes surface damage due to sharp mechanical shocks. Therefore, lining should be protected by all available and effective means. How and with what to process the lining inside the house?

Processing lining will extend its service life

Classification of adverse factors and methods of protection

Most of all, the lining suffers from:

• intense solar radiation;
• insects (for a wooden house, these are mainly woodworms);
• fungi and mold;
• sharp temperature fluctuations (typical mainly for hallways).

The degree of influence of these factors on the material is different. For example, if the main effect is ultraviolet, then the lining can not be processed at all, it is enough to hang dark blackout curtains on the windows of rooms facing the south or southeast side.

If the house is wooden, then the high thermal inertia of wood helps to equalize the temperatures in the rooms. In winter, the intensity of solar radiation is noticeably lower, so the original color of the lining will not change. Those owners who are not at all interested in the issue of surface protection of the lining are doing the right thing - if there are no other dangerous factors, then the durability of the finish for ten years is guaranteed to be ensured.

For other dangers, curtains are indispensable, and you should choose the most effective way to get a painted lining of a wooden house.

Classification of methods of surface finishing of the material

How to process the lining depends on the condition and material of the walls. Most often you can:

• perform mechanical cleaning;
• make a primer;
• impregnate with varnishes;
• paint the lining;
• perform heat treatment.

Mechanical cleaning is performed only for lining of the lower classes, and as an aid to other processing methods. This can be avoided if you do not skimp on finishing with the highest quality material, and also use the sanding of the lining before attaching it to the crate. Sanding is carried out using a stiff steel brush, which is moistened with a concentrated solution of universal bleach. It is necessary to check whether the color of the surface does not change.

Simple lining processing

High-quality material is usually certified for the absence of damage to the inside - the presence of voids and crevices where harmful insects can enter from the outside.

The primer consists in pre-coating the surface of the material with various stains. The composition of stains by their manufacturers usually adapts to specific types of wood, so the selection of the composition will be individual. Preference should be given to tinting stains, which, in addition to disinfecting components, also contain dyes.

By the nature of the impact, lacquer coatings are close to stains. They allow, in addition, to further enhance the aesthetic characteristics of the walls.

Technology for performing various processing methods

So how to process the lining? You can paint the walls and ceiling both in the house and in the country with the following materials:

1. Lacquers based on polyurethane compositions, which can be glossy and matte. When lining low rooms with clapboard, preference should be given to glossy varnishes (a light color is desirable), which visually “raise” the ceiling in the room. Glossy varnishes are also used in the processing of the bathroom, organically complementing the color of furniture and plumbing.
2. Alkyd-based varnishes, which well protect the lining from temperature extremes. They are well absorbed into walls and ceilings, and also increase the water resistance of the coating, the color of which does not change.
3. Acrylic varnishes, which are the most environmentally friendly, because they are created on a water-soluble basis. They dry quickly, retain their color well, but their protective ability is the least of all those listed above.
4. Combined (polyurethane-acrylic) varnishes that combine the advantages of each of the individual components. In addition, a number of manufacturers produce such compositions with textured components that imitate wax, the roughness of decorative plaster.

The color of varnishes is chosen depending on the color scheme of the interior.

The lining can be painted in different colors

A fairly simple way to increase the strength and fire resistance of lining is its high-temperature treatment with heat guns. The result is a beautiful and unique surface texture. At the same time, mechanical cleaning of the material is also carried out.

The difficulty of the process lies in the fact that the heat treatment mode should be selected experimentally, in accordance with the specific material, so you should first check the effectiveness of the reception on one of the panels or try this method in the country. And only then carry out such processing, choosing the mode:

• duration,
• received color,
• distance to the surface.

Heat treatment using a high-temperature heat gun is a risky process in terms of fire hazard. It should be noted that painted lining does not allow subsequent high-temperature processing. You can not paint the ceiling in this way.

When priming the lining, it is worthwhile, having selected the appropriate color of the composition, to simultaneously treat the surface with antifungal compounds. Thus, two issues are solved - protecting the surface from mechanical damage and preventing the formation of mold. A primer is required for panels that were used to decorate the walls of a bath, bath, sauna, and other areas of the house in which high humidity is constantly present.

Processing lining includes the use of antifungal agents

Separately, we should mention the methods of coloring the lining both at home and in the country. The lining, painted with specially selected paints, looks quite impressive, while protecting the wood from the harmful effects of external moisture.

You can paint the lining using enamels of two groups:

• water soluble;
• water insoluble.

The advantage of the paints of the first group lies in their significantly higher degree of environmental friendliness, and therefore this method is used for the walls of residential premises of a house or apartment. Water-soluble paints are porous, have a pleasant color for the eye, well pass air to the base of the material, preventing it from rotting. However, the mechanical strength of such paints is lower, so the treatment should be carried out in two layers.

For lining, colors close to natural are selected

Accordingly, with a single-layer coating with alkyd enamels, the permeability of the coating deteriorates, and the lining surface can accumulate odors. With an increase in surface temperature, volatile substances harmful to the human body can be released into the atmosphere of the room. Therefore, it makes sense to paint lining in technical rooms - kitchen, hallway, etc. with water-insoluble enamels. Of course, in this case, the color of the furniture in the room is also taken into account.

Content:

For finishing the interiors of a wooden house or a country house, traditional lining is best suited, which has the following attractive properties:

Ease of installation and maintenance;

Ecological cleanliness and aesthetics;

Health benefits, as well as the ability to enjoy natural flavors.

In addition, the lining of the lining is a good heat and sound insulator that protects the walls of the room from extraneous noise and sudden changes in temperature.

At the same time, lining made of wood materials is not without drawbacks, since it belongs to the category of flammable materials exposed to moisture, mold and fungal growths.

To realize all the advantages of natural wood, special processing of the lining is required, which provides reliable protection of the lining material from destruction, as well as increases its external attractiveness.

Types of decorative and protective coatings

How to cover the lining in the cottage in the country? is a question that comes up quite often in Internet search queries. And, indeed, even before the start of finishing work, it is necessary to decide on the choice of paint and varnish products that are best suited for each specific condition.

The latter are represented on the domestic market by a wide range of materials that preserve the wood surface in various operating conditions and improve its appearance. When evaluating and choosing them, not only the ability to resist the destruction of the material, but also the possibility of preserving the overall style of the room should be taken into account. Before processing the lining inside the house, we advise you to carefully read the list of special tools used for these purposes and represented by the following items:

• primers;
• fire-resistant impregnations (flame retardants) and antiseptics;
• decorative coatings (oil, acrylate and other dyes);
• waxes and varnishes used for surface finishing.

Additional Information: To this list, you can add special formulations used when it is necessary to remove the old coating, etc.

Impregnations, primers and decorative coatings for woodworking

In order to decide on how to process the lining in the interiors of the premises, we will consider each of these items in more detail.

Description of materials

Primers

Primers serve as a base for painting, and also have antiseptic properties.

Primers are represented by special mixtures that combine two functions at once. They serve as a base for subsequent painting with oils or varnishes, and also have pronounced antiseptic properties, that is, they provide reliable biological protection.

It is allowed to use these compositions both when processing finished coatings indoors, and when finishing the facades of buildings.

Recommendations for the use of such products allow their use even on areas of surfaces with partially affected wood. Their combination with special textural additives makes it possible to extend the service life of coatings and give them a noble and well-groomed appearance.

Antiseptics

Antiseptics for wood belong to the category of products intended to protect the lining from harmful insects, fungus and mold. This composition is absorbed into the top layer of wood to a depth sufficient to ensure reliable protection of the finishing material from destructive influences. All antiseptics are divided into translucent and opaque formulations.

Antiseptic compositions for wood processing

A transparent coating for lining allows you to preserve the natural pattern of wood and saturates it with natural colors, while at the same time giving it shine. When using an opaque antiseptic, it is possible to preserve only the woody relief of natural material (at the same time, its color is hidden under the applied layer).

Lacquer and decorative coatings

Before covering the lining with one or another type of paint and varnish composition, pay attention to the possibility of decorating it with special dyes. When using decorative compositions, the surface of the lining acquires the appropriate color or shade while preserving the natural texture of wood. When using these products, there is no need for preliminary priming, since they already contain components with antiseptic properties. The most commonly used as such compounds are:

Oil paint that penetrates deep into the top layer of wood, ensuring its safety for a long time (up to 8 years or more). After this period, the lining surface loses its original luster and color saturation and needs to be repainted. A significant disadvantage of oil coatings is long drying times and a sharp unpleasant odor. It is best to cover the lining with oil paint in the summer or in the off-season, that is, in conditions that allow the room to be ventilated.

Acrylic paint is odorless, dries quickly, safe for health

Acrylate-based dyes, which are practically odorless, are easily applied to the surface without spreading, and also dry fairly quickly without posing a health hazard. That is why the processing of lining with acrylate dyes is one of the most acceptable options for decorating it. The only drawback of this material is its relatively high price.

For finishing the surface of the lining, it is best to use acrylic scuba. Thanks to the use of this environmentally friendly product, the wood structure acquires increased strength and durability. Aqualac is applied to the surface of the lining in several layers and dries very quickly. It is optimally suited for preserving the surface of decorated linings from lining, which must be dried well before processing.

Peculiarities of coating formation

Before processing the lining with any preparation or dye, its surface is carefully prepared for this procedure. With this in mind, the surface treatment (decoration) process includes the following steps:

• surface preparation;
• priming followed by the application of special compounds (antiseptics and fire retardants);
• decoration (painting lining);
• varnishing and waxing.

Preparatory measures are reduced to cleaning the surface of the lining from bumps, dirt and fungal formations, produced using fine-grained skins.

In some cases, a steel or hair brush can be used for these purposes.

At the stages of priming the surface of the lining and applying protective coatings to it, you will need a special roller or sprayer of liquid compositions. With their help, a soil layer is first formed, and after it dries, antiseptics and flame retardants are applied (with the exception of soil mixtures containing antiseptic and flame retardant additives).

You can start painting the lining only after the previously applied layers of primer, antiseptic and fire retardant have completely dried. When carrying out painting procedures, it is necessary to follow the instructions for using one or another type of composition (such coatings are formed from several layers, the number of which is determined by a specific type of dye).

At the final stage of work, you need to take care of the reliable preservation of the decorative layer from wear, which is achieved by coating it with special varnishes and subsequent waxing.

In this short video you will learn how to apply an oil wax coating on a wooden surface.

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