How to sheathe the walls of the house with clapboard inside and out? How to sheathe clapboard buildings from the inside and outside How to properly upholster walls with clapboard.

The popularity of cladding material is not accidental. Log houses, although they have a presentable appearance, age over time, do not look very attractive and require updating. In addition to the aesthetic component, the lining is also practical. About this and the stages of self-assembly below.

Benefits of cladding

The material is a plank of wood, equipped with a tongue-and-groove lock. Like any wood raw material, it has advantages and disadvantages. Among the first:

Ecology.
Appearance.
Possibility to hide insulation.
Ease of installation.

The second include:

Ability to biological damage.
Shrinkage along with the house.
Flammability.
Price.

What is good material for objects? Firstly, log houses lined with clapboard are warmer, since the corresponding polymers or mineral options are placed under the lining. Secondly, in this way, they hide an unpresentable secondary timber or a structure, the age of which is estimated in tens of years.

To save their own money, they buy lining of two types - ordinary and euro. The latter is distinguished by impeccable geometry, deep grooves and absolute dryness. It is used on interior surfaces.

How to sheathe a log house with clapboard correctly. Instruction

To begin with, the home master will need tools: a hacksaw, a drill, a hammer, a level, a marker, a 50 * 50 mm crate timber. And the material itself. Work is carried out according to the following rules:

Surface marking for the frame. First, they are determined with the desired position of the lining on it. If it is horizontal, then the frame of the bars should be arranged vertically and vice versa. The step of the crate is the width of the insulation if the surface is being processed inside the house, and a little more often outside, when mineral slabs and styrenes will not be laid. Range 50-70 cm. Attachment points are marked with a colored marker.
Laying a vapor membrane inside and waterproofing on the outer walls. This is an axiom, without protective coatings, the lining will fall into a deplorable state. Fasten the material with a stapler or tape. Adhesives are unacceptable, as the wood will stop breathing.
Using a level, fill the crate. All edges of the bars must be in the same plane, the even position of the entire skin depends on this. By the way, for internal surfaces, the width of the bars should be 1.5 cm more than the thickness of the insulation layers. Otherwise, close contact will lead to blockage of ventilation, the main guarantee of the durability of wood.
Laying styrenes or mineral wool. The material must fit snugly without gaps. It is best to use progressive products - the fibers have a lot of complaints, both in terms of quality and environmental.
Sheathing directly. It starts from the bottom up. The first bar is strengthened with the selected fasteners - self-tapping screws, decorative nails and other things.

The second one is put on it and pressed tightly. And further according to the established pattern. Thus, they sheathe a timber house with clapboard with their own hands.

There are several rules for inside and outside. About them below.

The nuances of facing the surfaces of the house:

Aggressive environments - humidity, temperature differences, cold and heat, can affect the lining and its fastening. By following the recommendations, damage to the material can be avoided.

Internal walls

Before work, the building product must stand in the house for at least a month. Otherwise, starting to interact with a warm room, the raw material will dry already on the walls, which will undoubtedly lead to shrinkage and warping.
Each plank needs to be treated with all kinds of compounds for protection - moisture resistant, heat resistant. It is better to use each composition separately - universal options do not give a good effect.
The device of the ventilating channels between lining and a heater. As already mentioned above, the gap is at least 1.5 cm.
Use special clamps for fastening. This is more aesthetic - with possible drying, the nails can look out.

With progressive parts, this will not happen. In addition, with an erroneous process, it will not be difficult to return and redo everything. At the same time, beautiful material will remain untouched.

External walls

The lining boards are fixed strictly with a groove top. To prevent rainwater from entering and stagnating in the grooves.
When strengthening the crate, the timber frames the window and door openings.
It is mandatory to use the rules for internal walls. Protection and fasteners should not differ from the place of work.

It is not difficult to sheathe a clapboard with your own log house with your own hands.

Lining has the advantage of eliminating defects and redoing the result, but if you approach the issue in detail, then the latter will not happen.

Interior decoration of the house with clapboard painted

Wood, as you know, is a versatile material and remains so, regardless of its scope and processing options. Particularly relevant is the use of wood in construction, in particular in wall cladding inside the house. Thanks to this material, you can create a favorable microclimate, comfort and beautiful interior in the house.

Application

More and more residents of private houses choose the interior of the walls from the lining inside the house. This is due not only to the comfort and magnificent beauty of the interior, which are achieved through the use of wood, but also due to the presence of certain properties that the lining has.

Among them:

Excellent sound isolation;
The surface does not require further leveling;
A wonderful aroma of wood that will appeal to all residents;
Biological feature and high environmental friendliness of wood;
Various ways of laying the lining, as well as its different widths and others, allow you to visually change the proportions of space.

Let's say a few words about the properties of lining to change the space:

To begin with, it is worth noting that any decorative lining for interior decoration is wooden daughters, the width of which is usually 8.8 cm, which in turn is the standard working size. The length of the rails will vary (from 1 to 6 meters), their variation depends on the dimensions of the room and the methods of installation. Before purchasing sheathing material, it is imperative to make accurate preliminary measurements;
Also an important point is the method of laying the rails on the walls. They can be placed vertically or horizontally. The horizontal position expands the space of the room, while the vertical masonry increases the room in height.

Grade classification

The classification of the lining directly depends on the quality indicators, according to which the material is usually divided into 4 grades, which, in turn, determines the price of the product.

Saving in this case is not worth it, but buying too expensive lining can be a waste of money. On sale most often found 4: "Extra", followed by varieties "A", "B" and "C".

It is difficult to imagine a type of wood from which it would be impossible to make lining, while the quality of the finishing material will directly depend on the type used.

The following types of wood are commonly used in the Russian construction market:

Pine;
Birch;
Larch;
Ash and other options.

However, when approaching the choice of the type of wood from which the lining is made, one point should be taken into account - all of the above types of wood are suitable for interior decoration with a lining at home.

Important! It is worth considering some physical features of the rocks, for example, coniferous varieties are not suitable for decorating a bath, because at elevated temperatures, resin will begin to release from this material.

Step by step lining

If you want to know in detail how to sheathe a house with clapboard inside, you should study the step-by-step algorithm of the work process. It is not difficult to perform this procedure with your own hands, a special video and instructions will come to your aid, which will tell you step by step how to carry out wall cladding.

The initial stage is the choice of the lining arrangement, horizontal or vertical. The choice in this case should be dictated by the size of the room and the taste of the owner. For a vertical arrangement, the rack frame is located horizontally, the opposite arrangement is for horizontal laying of the lining.

You must first prepare the slats (or buy), you can cut boards for them, the width of which is from 25 to 30 mm. A prerequisite is that the material must be dry.

Frame installation

The main condition for installing the frame is placing it in one plane. The first rail for horizontal laying should be installed strictly vertically using a plumb line. You can fix the rail with self-tapping screws or ordinary nails.

We pass to the opposite corner, where the installation of a similar rail is required, several nylon threads are pulled between them to create a single plane. Then, along these threads, all the elements of the frame are installed.

Tip: The distance between the slats is strictly maintained in the range should be from 50 to 60 centimeters, the crate after installation requires treatment with an antiseptic.

Fastening lining

The main rule for placing a lining of a horizontal type of masonry is that the groove should be down and the spike up. This will prevent moisture from entering the groove if it forms on the walls. After all, the accumulation of moisture in the grooves will lead to a loss of the appearance of the cladding, as well as to the formation of mold, which is dangerous to health.

You can assemble the lining both from the ceiling and from below, from the floor, this moment is dictated solely by the desire of the owner. However, it is advisable to leave the lining in the room where it will be mounted for a day, so that the tree adapts to future conditions.

You can fasten the slats to the frame by means of nails driven into the groove part, be sure to use a tool such as a doboy (photo), or use a large nail.

The back wall of the groove requires special attention, it is important that it does not crack during installation. Moreover, a small gap (1-2 mm) is allowed between the elements, this will allow you to adjust the shape of the lining in case of deformation of the tree due to high humidity in the room. In the photo - a ceiling plinth that hides all the irregularities. The range of stores is very voluminous

Sometimes the lining is simply varnished if this room does not differ in any conditions. In the event that we are talking about the walls of a bath or sauna, it will be necessary to use protective equipment that can not only prevent the negative effects of moisture, but also protect against temperature changes.

Finally

When wondering how to sheathe a house with clapboard inside, it is not at all necessary to resort to the services of specialists. You can do this work yourself, using our guide.

Often, in order to find the answer to the question of how to sheathe walls with clapboard with your own hands, you have to hire specialists, which, in turn, leads to the need for additional expenses. Thus, the costs become double - for the material and directly for the work. Nevertheless, it is quite possible to do the wall cladding, both external and internal, with your own hands. Plus, it will save you money.

What is finishing for?

Wall cladding with clapboard has a lot of positive aspects. First of all, thanks to this type of finish, you can get not only an attractive appearance of the walls, but also their high environmental friendliness, since the panels are made of pure wood.

In addition to the naturalness of raw materials, it is worth noting the ease of laying such material; even an amateur can cope with this task. However, often after installing the lining, you will have to deal with applying an additional coating in the form of paint or in order to achieve a high service life from an aesthetic and practical point of view.

Thinking about the question of how to sheathe a house with clapboard, they usually try to solve two primary tasks during the repair:

Protect your home from natural influences, especially in an unstable climate;
Performing cosmetic work to add beauty to the space.

It is important! The price of lining is really attractive. It is worth considering the fact that to install the panels you can do it yourself without the help of specialists.

Installation

For example, it is worth using lining with the required level of humidity, it is desirable that the products pass through the autoclave. In principle, raw products can be purchased at the end of spring, after drying them in the summer, installation can begin in August.

Wall cladding tools

The lining itself, which can be made from various types of wood. Most often, aspen is used for cladding the walls of a room. Provided that a sharp jump in temperature is not planned in the room;
Special bars, which are necessary for the installation of the crate. Their fastening is necessary in increments of 40 or 50 centimeters;
Self-tapping screws are required to fix the structure or dowels, it all depends directly on the material from which the walls are made;
Cleamers are required to attach the planks to the base. From the video, you can see that more cloves and staples will be required;
Stapler, small hammer, it is more convenient for the final stage;
The last step in the installation of the lining is the application of the finishing layer. on an already finished design, for this purpose you will need any, or a simple varnish. Coverage should be chosen depending on what conditions are planned in this room;
For wood, a special high-quality primer is required.

Worth paying attention! For additional wall insulation, which is carried out at the stage of lining installation, heat-insulating material should be used, as well as a membrane that does not allow steam and moisture to pass through. A vapor-tight membrane is especially important in the case of finishing the external walls of a building.

Lathing installation

It is not uncommon for wood panels to be attached directly to an old wall surface, provided the surface is flat and strong and durable.

However, if you are wondering how to sheathe a log house with clapboard, it is better to pre-install the crate.

It is not difficult to create a crate, the most important thing is to observe some points and nuances.

The load-bearing element of the crate has unified dimensions, they should not exceed 20x40mm. In the event that the installation of thermal insulation is necessary, its thickness should be taken into account when installing the crate. As for the length of the racks, it depends directly on the dimensions of the room;
The crate should be fixed depending on the material. from which the walls are made. For a wooden base, you will need to use self-tapping screws, while for stone or brick, only dowels are suitable. A step of more than 50 centimeters is not rational and dangerous;
Racks are located perpendicular to the panels, and the elements of the future coating themselves can be installed as desired vertically, horizontally, or even obliquely;
It is worth noting that all the components of the frame necessarily lie in the same plane., to obtain an even result, you must use a level. Pre-prepared wedges made of wood can help in leveling.

It is important! To make the supporting structure the most durable, you should use a solid beam. The use of parts of the beam significantly reduces the service life.

Panel mounting

If you are going to think about the question of how to sheathe the walls with clapboard, you should decide on the choice of installation method. Besides, the required number of boards should be cut, for which it is necessary to measure all the original surfaces. This will allow you to use the material rationally.

Panels can be fixed to the crate in the following three ways:

. This is the best option, since you don’t have to drive any elements into a wooden lining. As a result, the lining is very neat and quite reliable;
Using a stapler and staples. This fixation is called hidden, since the installation of fasteners is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees. The place of installation of the brackets is the spike of each panel. Each next board will enter the previous one without problems;
Use of nails. This mount is also considered secret, while its principle is similar to the use of staples. The difference in the use of fasteners, in addition, the use of a hammer, which allows you to drown the hat, is important.

Note! If you are going to translate into reality the method of how to sheathe a room with clapboard, you can apply any of the methods described above. However, there are other ways as well.

Further processing

To complete the laying of the lining, a finishing layer should be applied, it can be varnish, paint, special impregnation or glaze. It is common to use paints that usually strip the wood of all of its natural properties.

In principle, on the market you can also find coatings that allow air to pass through, but their color scheme closes the natural pattern. If you are going to solve the problem of how to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard, you need to study in advance all the properties of paint and varnish coatings.

How to choose quality material

To finish a room that can have a different purpose, you need high-quality material. However, there are certain characteristics by which you should choose a material that allows you to answer the question of how to properly sheathe walls with clapboard.

It is worth paying attention to the type of wood, as well as directly to the class to which this lining belongs.

Purchase of wood panels for exterior walls

It is necessary to sheathe the room from the outside not only for decorative purposes, but also in order to protect the building from any influences of nature. Here you should pay special attention to the type of wood.

It is necessary to obtain a coating that will not fight dampness, temperature changes, as well as the effects of precipitation and other indicators of an unstable climate.

The most preferred breeds are:

Oak. It is very well suited for outdoor decoration, as it has characteristic signs of resistance to external influences, durable in terms of operational periods. In addition, its color range is quite wide - from light yellow to dark red shades;
Larch. An excellent tree for use in damp climates, as it is quite resistant to decay. The structure of the tree is very pronounced. If we talk about the minuses, then this is too complicated processing of raw materials for the manufacture of wood panels. This leads to too high a cost;
. Representative of conifers, resistant to decay. Distinguish interesting tones;
Merbau. The option is rather exotic, it has an interesting texture. Speaking about the advantages, we should highlight the resistance to ultraviolet rays, humidity and too sharp temperature fluctuations.

It is important! Almost any type of wood can be suitable for decorating walls from the outside, while it is advisable to choose the most valuable ones that will ensure the durability of the sheathing of the building.

Purchase of wood panels for interior walls

When learning how to sheathe walls inside a building with clapboard, it should be noted that the inside of the house is devoid of negative effects such as precipitation or ultraviolet radiation. Accordingly, from the inside, the house can be lined with less stable rocks, which, nevertheless, have the highest rates in terms of aesthetics.

An example of this are:

Maple. Endowed with a wide range of colors. The texture is noble. There are practically no shortcomings in this breed, it is durable, easy to process;
Ash. Very promising for decorating walls inside a building. On its surface there are small vessels, which allows you to get interesting ornaments on the cut;
Nut. It is distinguished by hardness, which, however, does not interfere with processing to create lining. May vary in color and structure, depending on the region in which it grows. Even with a long period of use, walnut panels do not deform;
Cherry. A noble shade that makes this type of wood recognizable. However, cherry wood will darken over time.

It is important! For interior decoration, there are many more options in terms of choosing the type of wood. This allows you to significantly diversify the options for design solutions.

Conclusion

The instruction above tells how to sheathe a wall with clapboard, both inside and outside. The most important thing is to calculate the required amount of material for work, this is easy enough to do by calculating the area of \u200b\u200beach surface.

Sheathing walls with clapboard means not only prestige and visible comfort. Lining made of wood has all the properties of wood: thermal insulation and breathability. The latter is determined primarily by the exchange steam capacity - with an excess of moisture vapor in the air, the lining from the lining absorbs them; gives in case of deficiency. In addition, wood exudes a slight aroma, bactericidal substances and neutralizes unpleasant odors. All this together creates a favorable, healthy microclimate in a house sheathed with clapboard.

Note: this publication deals with wooden lining. Plastic and metal are more resistant to external influences, but, firstly, they do not diminish or add anything to the quality of the environment, secondly, they are noticeably more expensive, and thirdly, the sheathing technology differs significantly from that for wood lining. Therefore, clapboard made of non-wood materials houses are sheathed mainly from the outside.

Work order

Wooden clapboard can be used to decorate living rooms of almost any style of design, both completely and partially, see fig. In the latter case, lining can be an effective means of zoning a room, at the top left in fig.

Wall decoration with clapboard is carried out in the following order:

Building preparation: if the walls are porous or cold (good heat conductors) - insulation and waterproofing from the outside. Possibly some decorative trim. Neglecting this point will nullify all efforts to create beauty within;
The choice of material - wood species, profile and width of the lining boards;
Choice of sheathing scheme: horizontal, vertical, diagonal, shaped;
Preparation of the internal base surface - leveling, steam / hydro insulation;
Installation of the crate under the skin;
Sheathing of walls with clapboard, according to standard or simplified technology. With regard to the strength and decorative qualities of the skin, they are equivalent, the differences are different, see below;
Applying a protective coating to the skin;
Installation of sockets, lamps and other devices built into the wall;
The imposition of skirting boards on deformation gaps, corners of window slopes and door quarters.

Material

Decorative lining is a kind of molding - long lumber - and is a profiled board with a typical tongue and groove connection. Tongue - a type of longitudinal tongue-and-groove connection with an open groove. Sheet piles come with locks (not necessarily requiring additional fastening of boards to the base) and without locks. Lining for walls and ceilings is produced exclusively with a lockless tongue and groove, because. locking tongues are reliable only in flooring. With locking tongues, a floor laminate is produced, which is much more expensive than lining. It is impossible to lay it on the walls and even more so on the ceiling without additional fasteners. There are typical fasteners for laminate, similar to the same for lining, but working with laminate is more difficult and it does not improve the microclimate of the room. The surfaces of the walls and ceiling are subject to wear incomparably less than the floor, so it makes no sense to spend money on covering anything other than the floor with a laminate.

Wood

Lining for walls is made from various types of wood, both ordinary local and expensive imported ones. The budget of the level up to the average is available lining from pine, spruce, oak, ash, larch and birch, see fig. Cedar, maple, beech, walnut and exotic woods of the road. The dressing room and the rest room of the bath are sheathed with coniferous clapboard, the washing room is lined with oak, aspen or alder; possibly larch. Steam room - linden, aspen, alder; rarely - oak.

Note: before use, wooden lining and wood for battens under it must be subjected to acclimatization - they are kept in a room that will be finished for at least a day, stacked in a pile with ventilation ducts.

Pine lining is either the cheapest or very expensive. Cheap ones are knotty, and expensive ones are without knots from the trunks of mast pines. Knotty pine lining, however, in skillful hands, serves as an excellent decorative material. Pine breathing is even, deep. Bactericidal properties and resistance to fungi and pests are excellent. For finishing living quarters, you need to take a lining made of dry-wood pine, cut down in winter. Pine-tar, cut down during the period of sap flow, in the open air keeps no worse than bog oak, but it is too resinous and expensive. It is easy to distinguish tar on sale from dry chips: tar either shows streaks of resin, or it stains your finger with it if you hold it with pressure over the fibers. The interior decoration of the house with pine clapboard is the best option in terms of beauty, utility and cost.

Spruce is in many ways similar to pine, but it is not necessary to sheathe the nursery and the kitchen with it: spruce is not divided into dry chips and tar. The resin content of spruce wood is about the same all year round. Spruce sheathing is light, but darkens faster than pine under the influence of ultraviolet (UV), so it is better to finish with spruce clapboard rooms with windows to the north and northwest. A feature of spruce wood is its excellent resonant properties. A conversation in a spruce-lined office turns out to be solid, detailed, and the music or the sound of a film in a “spruce” living room is clear, juicy, and lively.

Note: on sale under the guise of spruce, lining is often found in almost the same color tone as pine. She is fir. There are more resins in it than in spruce, and the sound resonance is weak. Fir lining is well suited to the hallway, balcony, glazed veranda and other rooms where people enter in street clothes and shoes - fir lining retains bactericidal properties for a very long time.

Oak is renowned for its strength and durability. With regard to decorative lining, it is important that the tone of oak wood differs within the same board. This gives more design options. Ash is also uneven in tone, but lighter than oak and breathes easier. The south-facing oak-lined living room can be stuffy in summer; it is generally not recommended to decorate the bedroom and the nursery with oak. Oak muffles sounds; if neighbors are “happy” from your music center, then oak paneling is able to reconcile them with unexpected joy. Oak perfectly resists rot and mold, but wood-boring beetles gnaw it willingly. The house bug most often starts up in oak houses.

Larch is very resistant, breathes like pine. Fungi and insects are not afraid; ants and cockroaches avoid houses sheathed with larch, even mosquitoes fly there reluctantly. Larch wood has a wide range of tones from wood to wood; the texture of its layers is more refined and expressive than pine. Larch lining, selected by shades, is expensive, but its regrading is much cheaper and interesting effects can be achieved in sheathing from it. There is quite a lot of resin in larch, but it quickly evaporates and (mostly) bituminizes: a year-old larch lining is equivalent in this respect to dry wood pine. It is the bituminization of the main part of the resin that explains the high resistance of larch wood.

Birch gives an exceptionally bright, cheerful, positive interior. and is aesthetically compatible with most modern design styles. Under the action of UV birch darkens slowly and weakly. Unfortunately, birch wood is very easily affected by fungi. The only 100% reliable way to guarantee birch sheathing from the appearance of colored veins and stains is underfloor heating combined with good external insulation.

Linden, alder, aspen for sheathing residential premises are of little use due to low mechanical strength; lining from these types of wood is used only for. Lining the steam room in the bath with linden makes the bath light, suitable for women, children and weak people. Steam room with alder or aspen paneling - ordinary, medium. Oak bath - vigorous. It is good to maintain heroic health and strength in it, but it will not benefit an ordinary person.

Note: it is unacceptable to sheathe a steam room and a washing bath with a knotty clapboard made of any tree; in the bath atmosphere, the knots soon begin to fall out. In the steam room, in addition, the knots are sources of fire and burn danger, heat is concentrated in them.

Profile and width

Cheaper and easier to install with your own hands (see below) lining of the Soft Line profile (on the right in the figure); if, according to the design, the visible gaps between the boards are minimal, use eurolining.

The lining of the Shtil profile differs from it not only in a smaller thickness, but also in a more rounded groove - shaped chamfers of the outer ribs. Clapboard Calm, as a rule, is expensive, made of wood without knots. Lining under a bar is used, in addition to purely decorative purposes, for sheathing auxiliary bath rooms, because. due to its greater thickness, it conducts heat worse and is less prone to knots falling out. Larch clapboard under a bar at least a year old from the time of sawing can be sheathed and washing, but not a steam room.

Note: Eurolining is also available with a comb height of 16 mm. This is the so-called. wind resistant, for outdoor cladding. To sheathe the walls inside with it or not is up to you.

The lining of any profile is produced by boards of different widths. If you intend to finish the room (s) with a clapboard with your own hands in an inexpensive simplified way, as described below, then the width of the board becomes important: the last one in the installation order must be cut in width as small as possible, and the cut should not be narrower than the plinth + deformation gap. Let's explain with an example. Let's say the length of the wall is 4 mm (400 cm). We are trying to take for vertical plating (see below) a board 150 mm wide (15 cm) along the upper layer. 400/15 = 26.67 boards will be used for sheathing. So acceptable, from the last one remains 2/3 in width; 4/5 or 5/6 would be better. With a 13 cm board, you get 400/13 = 30.77 more expensive boards; a 180 mm board will not work, because from the last in width there will be only 0.22. A 200 mm board will not work either: it seems like an integer number fits them, but there is no margin for trimming, see below.

American

The American clapboard came to construction from wooden shipbuilding: there, lining with planks is the only way to get seams suitable for waterproof caulking. Lining-American can be flat (pos. 1 in the figure) and stepped (pos. 2 and pos. 3 - a profile with dimensions), to imitate herringbone sheathing along.

It is believed that an American can only be sewn with horizontal belts. So, the installation of an American Christmas tree (as well as a blockhouse) with vertical panels is quite possible:

Each panel will go 2, 4 (as in pos. 4), 6, etc. an even number of boards.
At the extreme boards of the panel, the comb is cut off.
Under the joints of low edges (with cut ridges), bars are placed perpendicular to the main bars of the crate, see below.
High edges are connected with dowels (lamellas) - strips of wood or plywood. There is no need to cut them exactly along the profile of the grooves, it is only necessary that the keys sit tightly and the boards do not play relative to each other.

Sheathing from American vertical panels looks no worse, if not better, than herringbone sheathing (see below), but it is technologically simpler.

Sheathing schemes

The lining boards on the walls are easiest to either mount upright or impose horizontal belts. Horizontal cladding is generally more beautiful, but it is necessary to properly sheathe the walls with clapboard horizontally, by all means laying the boards with the ridges up. Otherwise, microreservoirs are formed in the grooves (pos. 1 in the figure on the right), from which rot and infection will come. With the correct sheathing of the side of the groove of the bottom board (the first in the order of installation) is cut off, pos. 2 in Fig., so that the groove does not become a pocket - a capillary moisture trap. As for the vertical cladding, here, whether and where to cut off the tongue / groove, depends only on the method of installation. Vertical cladding is used in damp rooms or with a high probability of condensation (bath, hallway); here, the correct installation of the horizontal skin will not save it from jamming.

Diagonal clapboard lining is rarely used, because. complex and gives a large waste of material, but almost does not win aesthetically. There are many shaped linings with clapboard; you can see that, for example, flat herringbone sheathing (on the left in the next figure) is laborious, but not as complicated as it seems: the fragments are cut according to a template in a miter box and mounted on a vertical crate. They look chic, but more complicated are the rhombus panels from the lining, on the right in fig. The crate under them is a cross with a frame, in the quadrants of which bars are attached under the diagonal plating, see below.

crate

You can’t just nail the lining to the wall, even if the wooden wall is completely even: a system of capillary channels will appear between the sheathing and the wall, the room will become damp, and the sheathing and, possibly, the wall will rot. The clapboard lining is necessarily ventilated, for which ventilation channels are cut out in the undersides of the boards. That is, under the clapboard sheathing, a crate made of wood is certainly necessary.

Why wood? Because the lathing material, similar in properties to the sheathing, also serves as a mechanical damper, especially if the base wall is made of mineral materials. For the same purpose, deformation gaps of 6-10 mm must be left between the cladding and the wall, see below. If the sheathing with a wooden clapboard is applied, say, to steel profiles for drywall, then it will quickly swell or cracks will go. And if, after a year or two, the plinths are removed from the sheathing along the wooden crate, it turns out that its edges have led, but the visible surface has remained as even as it was.

Schemes of battens for vertical, horizontal and diagonal cladding are given in fig. The general principle is that the lathing bars are perpendicular to the boards. Do not neglect the edge bars (marked in red!): There should be no hanging ends of the boards; the crate for diagonal cladding must have a continuous frame. The thickness of the lathing bars is 20-40 mm; width 30-60 mm. The installation step of the bars is 4-5 board widths along the upper layer.

Note 6: fastening the bars to the wall - 6 mm self-tapping screws in plastic dowels. In concrete from 70 mm, in brick from 90 mm, in foam / gas blocks from 120 mm. In a wooden wall - wood screws from 4x60. The fastening step of the bars is 400-600 mm. Attachment points 50-70 mm from the ends are required.

Wall

It is necessary to fasten the lining to the wall, taking into account the fact that the gap created by the crate is a ventilation, and not a steam trap. Second, in order for the sheathing with an ideal room not to be led away from drying out of the wood, the unevenness of the virtual (formed by the outer layers of the lathing beams) surface for the sheathing should be no more than 2 mm / m and the total no more than 6 mm along the entire wall of any length.

Putting the crate directly on a porous moisture-absorbing wall (item 1 in the figure) is a gross mistake. A rather expensive and time-consuming, but very reliable option for preparing a wall is to cover it with cement vapor-tight plaster, pos. 2; at the same time and the wall is leveled. To a sufficiently even concrete wall in a dry room, the battens can be fastened with EC brackets for drywall profiles, pos. 3.

Initially, EC staples are thin perforated plates. In this case, the bars of the crate are pre-selected for evenness. The middle beam is placed first, the EC-brackets, already attached to the wall, are bent and fastened along its edges, the ends of the beam are bent, then the intermediate brackets are bent and the entire beam is fastened without deforming it. The rest of the bars are placed exactly in the plane, focusing on the middle one.

However, the best way to prepare a wall for clapboard cladding is vapor barrier; in the bath, kitchen, hallway, it’s impossible to do otherwise. The wall is leveled and foil isol is applied to it with foil out; insulation sheets are placed on mounting tape with an overlap of 15 cm. more than the thickness of the insulation, and already to them - the bars of the crate, pos. 4. Thus, a continuous ventilated space is formed between the insulation and the casing, shown by green arrows in pos. five.

sheathing

The main principle of clapboard lining is to go from small complex places (see the figure on the right) to large solid planes. For details on all the intricacies of the inner lining with wooden clapboard, according to all the rules, see the following. video, and we'll see where to simplify, reduce the cost and make it easier, working with our own hands for ourselves.

Video: installation of wooden lining

Professionally, the lining is attached to the crate with mounting clips: starting (pos. 1a in the figure) and running, or clamps (clamps, clamps, clamps), pos 1 b, 2 and 3.

Fastening with adhesives ensures high labor productivity: a pro, using a pneumatic stapler, spends only a few seconds on the fastening point, see the video:

Video: Claymers for fastening lining

Second, the adhesives do not damage the boards. For example, in the countries of Southern Europe, the wooden paneling of a room is a symbol of wealth and prestige, but from strong UV, the clapboard paneling there darkens with spots after 2-4 years. Then the lining is changed, the removed boards are sorted by tone and sold as used, but no one will buy a holey board as a working material. Mounting the lining on the clamps is technologically accessible to anyone, see another video, but it turns out to be overhead, because. in addition to an increased amount of more expensive fasteners, special tools are also needed.

Video: how to fasten lining with adhesives

In Central Russia, lining under 2 layers of acrylic lacquer (see below) will retain its appearance for 10 years or more. With your own hands in your house, the lining to the crate can be fastened with small screws or nails, pos. 4 and 5:

In this case, it is more convenient to work with the soft line (pos. 5), because the number of obliquely driven hardware is reduced. The fastener caps are sunk in plain sight by turning the excess with a screwdriver or, if it is nails, with a doboynik - a steel rod with a cap under the blow of a hammer striker at one end and the other end sharpened on a truncated cone. The simplest doboynik is obtained from a 100-150 mm nail.

Recessed fastener caps are rubbed with putty on wood. Because wall and ceiling sheathing is not subject to heavy loads and wear, you can prepare putty exactly to match the wood yourself by kneading 2-4 volume parts of sawdust of the same tree into 1 part of PVA.

Laying

Usually the lining is laid in the same way as a laminate: a comb is cut off from the first board and placed in that place against the wall. However, since they don’t walk on the walls and ceiling and don’t put furniture on them, the sheathing according to the “everything is the opposite” principle, pos. 6. Only the last board is cut to size in width, and the first one is placed with a groove to the wall as it is.

Protection

The panel (wall) sewn with clapboard is sanded to evenness with sandpaper No. 140-160, then primed with a primer for acrylic lacquer. The purpose of the primer in this case is primarily to raise the small fibers left by the coarse sandpaper. After the primer dries, the surface is sanded with sandpaper No. 240-280. After each grinding, the surface is blown with a vacuum cleaner (you can’t rub it with a rag!). Two sandings with an intermediate primer will give a perfectly smooth surface. Its protection against mechanical damage and UV will provide 2 layers of acrylic varnish, colorless or tinted. The 2nd layer is applied after the first has completely dried. In addition, varnishing will significantly reduce the fire hazard of the skin, but it will not interfere with breathing: breathing will go from the underside through the deformation gaps.

Lining is a natural material that is perfect for facing the house inside and out. Not everyone knows how to properly sheathe walls, so they prefer to hire a team of builders. However, in fact, anyone who wants to make a skin can do it.

Features of finishing work using lining

Wall cladding with clapboard is in no way inferior to siding or profiled sheeting. The material is considered universal by specialists. This board has a tongue and groove. In addition, depending on the profile, it has a layer. Its design looks great. It will be able to reliably protect the building from blowing from the outside. Not a single finishing material can be compared with it, if we consider the cleanliness and environmental friendliness of the indoor climate.

Variety of options

Sheathing a house, as a rule, begins with the selection of the right material. In this case, the purpose of the room must be taken into account. Depending on the profile, it is divided into the following options:

Clapboard panel. Her profile is simple and technological. It costs from 100 rubles.
Eurolining is distinguished by the presence of recesses on the wrong side of the panel. Through them, drainage and ventilation of fumes and moisture are carried out. It can be used for facade cladding. The average cost of this product is 200 rubles.
American designed for exterior decoration. This material costs at least 190 rubles per m2.
The block house imitates a round tree, as it has a convex profile on the outside. Like a simple lining, it has a flat inner side with grooves and spikes on the side. Its price is 250 rubles.

Varieties of varieties

"Extra" is the designation of the highest quality material. It has a smooth and even surface, no knots or defects. This is the most expensive option. If you want to save at least a little, you will need to turn to grade "A". Here, a living knot is found on a certain surface area. "B" may have minor defects in addition to knots. Grade “C” is considered the cheapest, but it has almost no aesthetic appeal.

To choose the best option for yourself, it is useful to watch the video:

How many squares are in a cubic meter?

When purchasing material, it is important to have certain knowledge. For example: what area can cover one cube. This value can change its value: it all depends on the thickness of the purchased products. The quadrature allows you to find out how much m2 of lining is in one cube.

You can calculate it if you measure the thickness of the coating (12 - 25 mm). This figure is converted to meters. If the thickness of the product is 16 mm, then 0.016 m, respectively, comes out.
A cubic unit is divided by the resulting number: 1: 0.016 \u003d 62.5 squares.

Material required for lining inside

In the room, measure the width and length. Additionally, the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling is calculated if it is planned to be sheathed.
The area of the walls is calculated based on the height and length.
All obtained indicators are added together. From here, the quadrature of openings is taken away: windows and doors.

Building material for outdoor decoration

When calculating the area, the method given above is used.
Quadrature of the gables by multiplying the height by the length. The resulting value is divided by 2.
The results of each wall are summed up, and the area of the openings is subtracted from the result.

Finding out the number of boards in the cube of the lining will allow multiplying the total area by the thickness.

What are the types of upholstery work?

Traditionally, a distinction is made between interior and exterior decoration. For the second type, you should choose the euro standard.

Sheathing of walls with clapboard is performed both vertically and horizontally. Regardless of the choice, you need to make a frame. Wooden blocks are used as guides. The optimal cross section is 30x60 mm.

The guides must be fixed to the walls using linings with iron hangers, specially designed for gypsum boards. The lining is attached to the guides with thin nails or kleimers. Thus, it is possible to sheathe almost any room.

Finishing outside

For this purpose, 2, 1 and the highest grade are considered the most suitable. If painting will be done with a colorless varnish, then you will need "Extra" or "A". Only these materials do not have falling knots.

3 stages of house cladding

Outside, finishing work is carried out in stages:

markup
Mounting
Stitching

In addition to traditional methods: vertical and horizontal, there is an alternative - herringbone lining. The last option is considered the most economical.

To install racks that act as guides, you need to use a level or plumb line. There should be 2 racks for each corner of the building. Boards or bars are used. They are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

Bars are installed horizontally and vertically near doors and windows. To ensure a flat plane, the upholstery cord is stretched from above and below. Having installed vertical bars, guides are set.

Beginners should know how to properly sheathe walls with clapboard. For fastening in this case, the method of open fasteners is used. The screw is screwed into the boards directly. In this case, you should take care that the fasteners are located on the same line.

If you hire a construction company, then their services are not cheap. For m2, you will have to pay at least 350 rubles, taking into account the complexity of the lining and the type of insulation. Therefore, the savings are obvious if you decide to sheathe the house with a clapboard with your own hands.

Sheathing inside

Here again you will need racks with guides. Only the mount is called hidden. It is performed with kleimers or thin nails hammered into the grooves. The interior finishes also have significant differences. The board is high quality. Additional work is being carried out to ensure thermal insulation and waterproofing of the walls.

When the room has sloping walls, the frame is mounted taking into account the slope. The interior decoration of the walls with the clapboard of the room is carried out with a board with dimensions of 30x50 mm.

First of all, make markings for corner posts. In addition to them, horizontal connections are fixed. The resulting contour is used as a guide.

Finishing depends on the material from which the house is built. If the building is made of wooden building materials, then the vertical posts should not rest against the ceiling or floor. They need to be mounted at a distance of 2 or 2.5 cm. This is due to the fact that the walls in this case can be permanently deformed. The price, if you hire a team, will vary between 600 -1,000 rubles. The video will introduce you to all the stages of installation inside:

Trusting professionals, you can count on fast and high-quality results. This approach is practical. Doing everything with your own hands, you can save 2 times. Finishing a house with clapboard is not impossible. It takes time and desire.

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