Should I dip the roots of garden plants when planting in a clay mash? Why is it important to cover up saw cuts on an apple tree and how to do it Clay talker.
One of the most important agrotechnical practices on the site of a gardener-gardener is the whitewashing of trunks in autumn period and in the spring. To whitewash trees in autumn and spring (before and after winter) means to protect them from the difference in night and day temperatures, thaws and frosts, burns from the scorching sun, and pests.
The main functions of whitewashing trees in the fall (soon with them "on the nose") are to increase productivity, reflect the rays of the sun, repel rodents, while the spring one protects the bark of trees from burns and is used as a preventive measure against pest invasion.
From the correct work carried out to prepare the trunks for whitewashing, it will depend on how high-quality and resistant the applied solution will be. Therefore, when carrying out preparatory work, no step can be ignored.
Cleaning branches and trunk by hand
The work of cleaning the trunk from lichens, growths, mosses and lagging bark is best done after the rain has passed. Hand cleaning only, gloves should be worn on hands.
Attention!
To clean the bark, it is not advisable to use metal and plastic scrapers, washcloths, brushes. When you press the brush, the sharp bristles dig into the plant tissue of the tree and damage it.
On the trunk of plants, you can often find cracks, pits and depressions in which dirt accumulates and moss grows. It is necessary to carefully clean the bark from dirt using a pointed sliver or a wooden knife. Harder formations still have to be removed with a metal knife, with the obligatory further processing before whitewashing the wounds with putty.
Tree bark disinfection
To carry out work on the disinfection of the bark, it is required to wait for dry weather. If rains are predicted, there will be no sense in processing, you should not even take it.
For spraying use "OxyHom", "Hom", "Bordeaux mixture" is also suitable. Can be processed 3% blue vitriol, for the preparation of which the substance in the amount of 300 g is thoroughly stirred until completely dissolved in 10 liters of water. During spraying, the solution should not be allowed to flow to the ground in streams. It must remain on the trunk, otherwise it will not be of any use.
A special solution is also prepared for disinfection: 600 g of copper or iron sulphate is diluted in 10 liters of water, and finely dispersed treatment is required with this solution. It should be noted that the annual spraying of iron and copper chemicals can weaken plants and lead to their death. The whole point is that these drugs accumulate in the soil near the trees and in the bark, they do not dissolve and do not decay. Therefore, it is worth changing disinfectant solutions annually.
Copper sulfate can be alternated with an ash-soap or pure ash solution for processing.
Treatment with a solution with ash and soap
To prepare the remedy you will need:
- 10 liters of hot water;
- 50 gr. soaps;
- 2 kg wood ash.
Needs to be diluted in water laundry soap and wood ash, tie an unnecessary rag into a bundle, dip in the resulting solution and coat the trunk and base of the lower branches of trees with it. The ash-soap solution is also good because, having disinfecting properties, it is also a fertilizer that enriches with useful substances.
Ash liquor treatment
To prepare the drug you will need:
- Sifted ash - 2 kg;
- a bucket of water.
Pour the sifted ash into a container with water, stir, dissolving the lumps, and, bringing to a boil, leave to cool completely. During this time, the ash lye will settle and will be on the surface. It happens as a cloudy or transparent liquid, which must be filtered, diluted with water (1: 2) and treated with tree trunks. Since the product can cause allergies, hands should be protected with rubber gloves.
Covering wounds and cracks in trees before whitewashing
In preparation for the disinfection of trees, you can notice small pits and cracks on the trunks and branches. They appear as a result of damage by rodents, pests, are formed under the influence of scorching rays, temperature changes and severe frosts alternating with thaws.
Effective putties
To cover cracks, gardeners use purchased funds and hand-made putties.
garden var
We buy putty in the store, but "free artists" can cook it with their own hands, and it will be no worse than purchased.
Components:
- Rosin - 100 gr.;
- beeswax - 200 gr.;
- unsalted fat "lard" - 100 gr.
Heat wax and rosin in separate containers over medium heat. Then you need to combine them, add fat and heat the mixture until it dissolves. The hot liquid is then quickly poured into cold water. Naturally, it spreads over the surface. It needs to be collected by hand and rolled into one lump. The finished mixture has a long shelf life - up to 10 years. For greater plasticity, garden pitch is heated before use, since when the temperature drops, the mixture tends to harden and interact poorly with the surface of the tree.
Clay talker
A reliable tool used since ancient times to cover cracks. It is prepared from pure clay, or from a mixture that includes clay, manure, lime, blue vitriol, diluted so that it becomes the same as thick sour cream. For example, a recipe for making clay mash: you need to take clay, cow dung, chopped straw in a ratio of 200 g / 100 g / 20 g. All components are diluted in water, and chopped straw is added as much as necessary to thicken the mash. Putty prepared in this way retains its protective properties for many years, does not crumble or crack.
Pasta "RanNet"
The name itself suggests that there will be no wounds after treatment. And indeed. Pasta has proven itself and is appreciated by many gardeners and summer residents. It can not only cover up cracks, but also process cuts after cutting branches. Unlike Var, it does not freeze in the cold and is applied with a brush.
The paste contains humate and copper sulfate, so additional processing with the content of similar elements is not required. Since the paste does not tolerate moisture well, being moisture-permeable, processing is recommended in dry weather. Its downside is that over time it is washed away by rains.
Whitewashing trees in autumn and spring
Trees should be whitewashed only after cleansing the trunk, disinfecting the bark and covering up cracks and wounds. Trunks and one third of the length of the lower skeletal branches are subject to whitewashing. The procedure should be carried out annually: in autumn and spring. There are different opinions regarding the time of whitewashing trees, but the autumn one is the main one, and the spring one is the fixing one.
A suitable month for whitewashing in the autumn is October or, depending on the weather, November. Renewal whitewashing is carried out in early-late March. It is recommended to whiten the plants again, in the middle of summer. But this procedure is only a recommendation. If the whitening composition is cracked, washed off by rain, it is still worth updating the trees with fresh ones.
What to bleach?
As for young seedlings and mature trees, then both need to be whitewashed. Many gardeners do not support the idea that young trees need to be whitewashed. They argue that lime damages the young bark and prevents the trunk from growing in breadth. The issue remains controversial to this day. Naturally, if young trees are whitewashed with a highly concentrated solution, it will negatively affect the bark. Therefore, for whitewashing new seedlings, it is recommended, when preparing the solution, to reduce the concentration of lime by 2 times or increase the amount of water, also by 2 times. In addition to lime, you can use water-based paint. Each gardener must decide for himself what will bring more harm: either a bleaching solution or adverse weather conditions.
Preparing the bleach solution
To get reliable protective layer, at least two treatments are required. The thickness of the whitening composition on the tree trunk should reach 2 mm. The solution should not contain grains and be too rare, as it will flow down the trunk and will not be useful.
To prepare a bleaching composition, add to 1.5-2 kg of slaked lime:
- Oily clay - 1 kg;
- a bucket of water (10 l);
- copper sulfate - 250 gr.;
- if desired, you can add cow dung (1 shovel).
Combine all ingredients and mix until completely dissolved. It is necessary to apply a thick mixture on tree trunks to a height of 1 m (a little more, depending on the growth of the tree) from the ground.
For many summer residents, especially urban ones, the issue of saving their time is of increased interest, therefore, resorting to the help of special garden paint it costs nothing to whitewash trees.
Comparative characteristics of store whitewash
For comparison, you can take 6 types of garden whitewash from different manufacturers:
1. Acrylic whitewash "GreenSquare" from PKF Palisade LLC.
2. Silver biomask "Robin Green" based on white clay from the company "Fasco".
3. Lime whitewash with copper sulphate from PKF August LLC.
4. Acrylic paint for garden trees from LLC "Concord Ost".
5. Acrylic paint for garden trees from Blis LLC.
6. Lime whitewash "Gardener" with blue vitriol from Fasco LLC.
Having tested all garden whitewashes on different trees, we can draw the following conclusion: acrylic paints are the most resistant. When applied to a tree trunk, the surface is snow-white. Acrylic paints better protect from sunlight. Can be applied in one layer. During the winter, the paint does not wear off and does not crack, therefore, in spring time does not require reapplication. The disadvantage of paint is poor breathability, so it is not recommended to whitewash young trees.
As for eco-friendly whitewashes, which are based on clay and lime, one thing can be said: they need to be applied 2 times a year. The first whitewash - in the fall (main), the second whitewash - in the spring (fixing). Lime whitewash reflects the sun's rays well, but is washed off over time. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out secondary whitewashing of trees. Big plus eco-friendly whitewash is that they pass air well, trees "breathe".
Some summer gardeners prefer acrylic paints, other - lime mortars. Each owner has the right to choose for himself the type of whitewash that he considers reliable. The choice is yours.
Important!
It is impossible to whiten unprepared bark. The composition gets into the cracks, which leads to cracking of the bark and lagging behind the wood. Exposed plant tissue is more exposed to sunlight and insect infestation than a healthy tree trunk.
Protective operations should be carried out regularly. Whitewashing trees in autumn and spring will increase their resistance to diseases, which, in turn, will have a positive effect on palatability fruits and increased yields, and the trees will definitely be healthy and live longer.
Hello dear gardener!
Before starting this post, I want to congratulate all summer residents on May Day and wish good weather, fruitful work in the country and, of course, SUCCESS in this summer season!!!
So let's go...
Last spring, 2016, I found huge damage to the bark on apple trees from the application of "garden pitch" in the 2015 season. Well, to heal these injuries, I used "clay talker" that spring.
By the way, I have posts in this blog about this nasty remedy, like "garden pitch", which is made exactly from waste oil products.
I say it not just from the bay, but I have irrefutable reliable evidence of how this "garden pitch" destroys not only the bark on the trees, but also rootstock stumps with cuttings grafted onto them.
Find posts about the destructive effect of the "garden pitcher" is simple - in the search line of the blog (not the browser, but this particular blog), write a question, for example, or healing wounds garden pitch, or vaccinations and garden var... or something like that.
Shortly speaking, where I used "garden var" both on vaccinations and on cuts after pruning, one misfortune turned out - the vaccinations completely died, and the bark (on cuts) died off over a large area from the place where this "oil product" was applied.
So please, do not even think about buying this putty in the store, no matter how the sellers praise it, forget to even think about it. And if you have it, then throw it in the trash, so as not to get problems with the death of the bark on large areas of your fruit trees, as I did.
Okay, trouble trouble, and it is necessary to heal the wounds after the “war”, it is impossible to delay with this, otherwise the bark will die and die all over large areas of the tree, and then the tree may die.
Now to the point...
Spring 2016 for rehealing large wounds on apple trees, I used "clay talker". I have been using this "talker" for more than one year and the results from its use are good, if not excellent.
In the autumn of the same year I didn’t manage to show the results from the action of the “talker” on the bark of apple trees, since on October 11 we already had the first frosts and wash the “talker” cold water, so that you can better see the influx of new bark, I couldn’t do it.
Shortly speaking, the smeared places of the bark with this "talker" wintered on apple trees. This year, in the month of March, I decided to rinse the talker with water and show you the real result.
No, it's over, in one season such extensive wounds will not be able to heal, but in three or four years, I think, these wounds will heal, and subsequently nothing will threaten the tree, in terms of death during wintering.
First part of pictures about one apple tree...
It's a triple wound on an apple tree. In 2015, "garden var" was applied only to the cut of two branches. And then, as I think, the "garden pitch" began to eat into the bark, the bark began to blacken, die and crack. The wood of the cuts itself also turned black.
Then I carefully to the maximum, he cut off the damaged bark with a sharp garden knife to a healthy part and smeared it with “clay talker”. And so that the clay does not crumble during the season or is not washed away by rains, I usually wrap these places with a cotton or linen strip of fabric.
But in order for this material, God forbid, I didn’t make constrictions of the bark, I also coat it with “talker” over the fabric. In this case (under the "talker") the tissue partially decomposes and can even tear with intensive growth of the cortex, and no constrictions occur on the young cortex.
Now pictures of another apple tree with the same damage from the "garden pitch". There are the same consequences here - blackening and cracking of the cut wood, and extensive dying off of the bark along the periphery from the place where the “var” was applied.
My next steps exactly the same as in the previous case - cutting off dead bark; coating with "clay talker"; wrapping the "talker" with an ordinary rag and coating this same rag with the same "talker".
Now the pictures for the spring of this 2017 ...
Here are pictures of the first apple tree with three damaged areas. As I said, this whole household with a "talker" wintered as it is. The fabric itself was already semi-decomposed, and when I began to unwind it, it was torn (separated) in tufts.
Then I gently washed off the "talker" from the bark and see for yourself what happened in the end ...
it general form three injuries...
And this is already separately. Lower part with new bark…
This is the middle part...
And this is the top...
How do you like this result growth of new young bark from simple clay?
That's it, that everything is fine and even very. If we take into account the damage from the "garden var" that happened in the 2015 season, then count from them, and the trace caught a cold.
But the wound must continue to heal and this season I applied liquid remedy"RanNet" (at that time I did not have clay).
For the last season in 2016, this remedy also showed good results in healing small wounds after pruning, so I decided to try it instead of "clay talker".
Apply with a regular brush which children use to paint with watercolors or gouache on paper, but ...
But just choose a brush with a soft natural pile, so that it is convenient to apply (smear) this remedy not only over even areas of the entire wound, but also “push” it into microscopic cracks.
Let's move on to another apple tree ...
Here is an overwintered wound with a chatterbox on another apple tree.
The photo below is after flushing the "talker". Look, in this particular case, even the cut wood has whitened a little, which means that the damage from the “garden pitch” has been completely eliminated.
I also smeared this wound means of "RanNet".
I have a couple more apple trees with the same extensive damage, I acted on them in exactly the same way as on these two apple trees.
About the results of wound healing I will try to show you from RanNet this autumn.
Now about the "clay talker" ...
The talker is getting ready” is simple. Ordinary red clay is taken, filled with water to hide the clay, and infused for 10-15 minutes. Everything.
However, once you still need to mix this mixture during these 10-15 minutes, so that large lumps of clay, if any, are saturated with moisture and softened.
"Clay talker" should turn out in the form of sour cream. So it is easier to apply it with your hands both on wounds and on a rag.
I make my "talker" in their EM elixir infusions. That is, instead of water, I fill clay with Elixir infusion.
The result is, that in the "talker" there are also beneficial microorganisms that disinfect the wound from the penetration of viruses and pathogenic fungi into both wood and bark.
Who has my materials on EM Elixir, by all means make a "talker" on Elixir! There will be a double benefit - both wound healing and protection against pathogenic fungi!
If anyone doesn't have my EM Elixir materials yet, and they are urgently needed, I can make an electronic version of these materials. And you can pay on my Sberbank card. Write to me at this email address - [email protected]
Who needs a CD with these materials and Gift seeds of tomatoes of four varieties, he can order it by cash on delivery (in Russia) on this page - http://elicsir.dacha7.ru/
For Overseas Buyers only 100% prepayment is provided (I don’t have overlays abroad), but this is not a reason to put off the purchase of these materials on the back burner.
This season will be the seventh year, how I myself use various infusions of the EM elixir to protect all types of plants in the country from diseases! The result is very good!
The first infusions of the Elixir I started making at the end of 2010, and have already thoroughly and deliberately begun to prepare infusions from the beginning of the 2011 season.
To this day, I use these infusions and for the preparation of "clay talker", and for protecting plants from pathogenic fungi and viruses in their summer cottage.
Here, perhaps for today and that's it.
Now you tell me Have you used "clay talker" to heal wounds on your fruit trees?
Once again Happy May Day!
Good weather to you and fruitful work for the whole summer season!
Sincerely,
Sergey Dyakov.
A wound on an apple tree - saw cut, peeled areas of the bark or lacerated damage as a result of breaking off a branch - is open door for pests, bacteria, infections, fungi. Untreated damage heals for a long time, which negatively affects the fruiting of the apple tree, the processes of formation of new shoots. For this reason, no, even the most insignificant damage to the tree should not be ignored, it is better to cover it up. You will learn how to properly disinfect, lubricate saw cuts and trimmings from this review. Measures should be taken as soon as possible - in this case, you will have time to prevent the development of serious diseases in time.
When cuts are formed: if you cut down the old deadwood, damaged branches
The main reasons for the formation of sections:
- crown formation- in order for apple trees to bear fruit and grow well, they need to be properly shaped, but after pruning, defects often appear on the bark and branches.
- Removing old branches- when cutting branches from trunks, wounds are almost always formed that need to be properly disinfected and treated with special protective equipment. Read about how to prune an apple tree in spring.
- Rejuvenation- the same pruning, but for mature trees. Any traumatic events (and with rejuvenation, the volume of removal of branches, shoots is significant) can cause cuts.
Pruning trees and covering up wounds special tool do not take place on the same day. Wait a few days until the cut dries, and proceed to smearing.
Processing time
The terms for covering slices on apple trees depend on the time of year and the current weather conditions. So autumn is in season heavy rains sections dry out badly and for a long time - sometimes you have to wait at least a week for the wound to stop getting wet, and it can be fully processed. In sunny warm weather, saw cuts dry up in just a couple of days.
During summer pruning it is necessary to remove only very young, not yet stiff shoots. Sections of small diameter quickly heal themselves and do not need special treatments. At low air temperatures, wounds practically do not heal at all, even with proper treatment.
In winter, cuts are not processed at all.
Sections, the diameter of which does not exceed 2.5 cm, are disinfected, but not covered with anything. They tighten themselves and quickly enough, they do not pose a danger to the tree. With cuts more than 3 cm in diameter, they work strictly according to plan - immediately after trimming, the wound is cleaned of roughness, burrs with a sharp garden knife, the cuts are smeared with a brush with a special solution that will disinfect the wound and protect it from bacteria and infections. Then the cut is left to dry for several days, after this period, they are treated with a special tool, without affecting the bark of the tree along the extreme parts of the cut. If rodents damaged the bark in winter, it cracked due to temperature fluctuations or received a sunburn, treatment is carried out in the spring (the temperature should be above zero). Damaged areas are cleaned to healthy wood, then processing is carried out in the same way as after seasonal pruning.
Means for processing: what you can choose, how to cover
Consider what means are used for spraying saw cuts, and which ones are used for smearing.
Also, in places of unprotected cuts, the branch may begin to dry out - this process begins due to a violation of sap flow, as a result of which nutrients those sections of the branch that are located above the damage area do not reach.
Clay talker
To prepare a clay mash, use part of the mullein, two parts of clay and a little hay or straw. All this is stirred, diluted with water to the consistency of sour cream.
cement mortar
To make a cement mortar, take 3 parts of fine sand and a part of cement, mix with water and add drying oil. You can use the tool, including for covering deep cracks, wounds. Since water-based, oil paints over time, washed away by rain, they need to be updated.
Putties are applied only to damaged areas of wood, while the edges of the bark must be clean - otherwise a bark roller will not form, which will heal the wound.
Unprotected wounds on the bark are prone to cracking, sometimes the cracks are very deep. In the place where the cut has damaged the tree bark, a hollow may form. To use a mullein and clay talker, garden pitch, oil paints on natural drying oil, cement mortars, water-based coloring compositions, as well as balm-lacquer, which is also called artificial bark.
Garden pitch, how to cover up / cover up correctly
Garden pitch can be bought ready-made or made independently from fat, rosin, wax.
Wax, which contains var, does not allow air to pass to the tree, so the putty does not drain over the wounds. Cost from 50 rubles. for packing.
Due to the fact that the rosin is sticky, the var is securely connected to the wood, and the fat prevents the putty from cracking. You can replace fat with vegetable oil or drying oil, wax on turpentine. To prepare the solution, take one part fat, rosin and two parts wax.
Melt wax, fat, rosin first, then mix, slowly pour the mass into cold water. When the mass hardens, remove it, mix in the same way 20 parts of paraffin, 1 drying oil, 4 rosin or wax and rosin 2 parts each, turpentine 1 part. You can add ashes to the garden var, do the work away from the fire. Before applying to the cut, the garden pitch is slightly heated - this is necessary to make it softer. Apply the mass on the bark in a very thin layer - like a film. If do thick layer putty, then the wood underneath will begin to rot over time.
If juice flows after cutting branches
If sap oozes from small cuts that you didn't cover up, the pruning was done very late and the wounds simply didn't heal before the sap started flowing. This is not harmful for a tree, but small branches, hearth buds can dry out. You can partially protect the tree by making a clay liquid talker and smearing all the wounds with it, including the smallest ones. If the juice flows from several large sections, it means that you have not hermetically sealed, foamed, or painted the damage. Clean the surface with improvised means and do it all over again. Do the work on lubrication with high quality - otherwise there will be no sense from them.
To better fix the putty on the branch, use a bandage - they wrap the damaged area around it.
If the cut on the branch turned black
In cases where the cut was not processed in a timely manner, various pathogens settle on it. If no action is taken, the disease will spread to other branches and take large area. Blackening - characteristic symptoms and.
First, individual shoots dry out, and then the tree dies. Moreover, even neighboring crops in the garden can suffer. During treatment, it will be necessary to cut off all damaged parts, going to healthy areas of bark and wood. Treat the cut with Bordeaux liquid 3% if the leaves have not yet blossomed, and 1% if the growing season has begun. Let the cuts dry, then cover with diluted clay or garden pitch. The treatment is repeated if the disease continues to progress. Read about soot fungus on an apple tree.
But how to remove moss from an apple tree can be understood from the content in.
When blackening the sections, not only the damaged areas are sprayed, but the entire apple tree as a whole.
If the cut of the apple tree rots
Cut rot usually indicates an infection with tinder fungus spores. Spores are carried by the wind, and an open cut is a fertile place for infection and damage. The branch is cut entirely, then the cut area is checked. If the wood is healthy after stripping, it means that the disease did not have time to penetrate deeply. The diseased branch is burned, the cut is carefully disinfected and covered with pitch. In the event that the saw cut wood is dark and soft, the tinder fungus most likely hit the entire tree, and it is too late to take action. To prevent the disease from spreading to trees in the garden, cut down and burn the apple tree.
When the cut is rotting, it makes sense to save the tree (grow further) only if the wood is wet, but hard enough.
Video
This video will tell you about the putty of the wounds of fruit trees.
conclusions
- Pruning of trees should be carried out annually, cut down the old trunk and branches, dead wood. To speed up the healing process of sections, special putties are used.
- Sections heal most quickly in young twigs - large wounds of perennials are difficult to heal.
- To protect Apple orchard from hares, the trunks are wrapped with agrofiber or fenced with fine mesh nets.
Also read what to do if the bark of an apple tree is gnawed by mice in.
Before planting, seedlings are carefully inspected, diseased and damaged branches and roots are cut to healthy wood, broken, soaked or split roots should not be left. The remaining roots should be preserved, since the more roots a tree has, the longer and more branched they are, the better and faster it takes root and starts to grow after planting. All work with seedlings
Before planting, the root system of the seedling is dipped into a clay-dung mash (1 part of clay, 2 - mullein, 5-6 - water). Growth regulators (auxins) contained in manure promote the formation and growth of roots. You can prepare a simple soil talker: pour loose earth of the upper dark layer of soil into a small hole dug in the soil (40 x 40 x 30 cm) and dilute it with water to the consistency of thick sour cream. To stimulate the growth of the root system, hetero-auxin growth regulator is added to the soil mash. The liquid soil solution applied to the root system ensures good contact with the soil in the planting hole, which is very important for the plant. At the bottom of the planting pit, a mound of earth or compost mixed with fertilizers should be poured, the seedling should be placed on the mound and all the roots of the plant should be spread on it. It is more convenient to plant together: one person sets up a tree with north side stake, carefully spreads the roots along the mound, the other throws the earth: the top layer of soil, removed when digging the pit, onto the roots, starting from the edges of the pit and carefully compacting it with your foot (putting the heel against the wall of the pit, and the toe against the seedling). This must be done carefully so as not to cut off the roots of the plant. The soil that the roots fall asleep should not contain fertilizers, it can only be mixed with mature compost in a ratio of 3: 1. So that voids do not form between the roots, the seedling is shaken. When planting, it is held so that the root neck is 3-5 cm higher than the edges of the pit.
After planting a tree on the border former pit pour a roller to form a hole and water the plant (2-3 buckets of water per tree, regardless of soil moisture and weather). After watering, the tree will settle along with the soil, and the root neck will remain at the level of the soil in the garden. The seedling is tied to the stake with soft twine or other material, the places of contact of the twine with the stem and branches are isolated by placing pieces of rubber to prevent growing into the bark. The next day after planting, the ravines and the near-stem circle fall asleep, mulch with poorly decomposed bedding manure, raw immature compost or humus (a layer up to
10 cm). In dry weather, seedlings are watered every 10-15 days.
Rules for planting seedlings
Buy seedlings only in specialized farms.
Do not allow the roots of the seedling to dry out, put the plant in a container with water for 1-2 days before planting.
Cut off broken branches.
Cut off damaged roots to healthy tissue.
Before planting, stimulate the roots by dipping them in a clay-dung mash or soil mash with a growth stimulator.
Distribute the roots evenly in the planting hole, preventing them from breaking and twisting.
When backfilling, avoid voids between the roots, compact the soil so that the tree holds firmly in the ground.
Don't fall asleep root collar.
Compact the soil carefully, avoiding breaking the roots.
Tie the seedling to the stake, placing it on the north side, only with soft strapping material, placing insulating material at the point of contact with the trunk.
It is impossible to allow the strapping material to grow into the bark, this can later cause cracks in the wood.
Form a near-stem watering circle, water the seedling abundantly, mulch the near-stem circle.
It is important to form a near-stem circle of the tree, which, as the tree grows, will proportionally increase in diameter. To protect the roots from freezing in the first winter after planting, especially in dwarf breeds with a root system close to the soil surface, before the onset of stable frosts, the near-stem circle is insulated with peat, spruce branches or other material.
Influence of factors external environment for plant development
The growth and development of plants are associated with environmental conditions, the main ones are heat, light, water, air and nutrients. Only in the presence of all these factors and their optimal combination can plants grow and develop normally. Therefore, it is necessary to know the role of each factor in the life of cultures in order to be able to manage them.
Warm
Heat affects all chemical transformations and movements of substances both in the plant and in the soil, on the beginning and duration of phenological phases and vegetation as a whole. A certain temperature regime is necessary for the growth, development and formation of the productive part of fruit and berry crops. In relation to heat, fruit and berry plants are conventionally divided into:
very thermophilic (citrus, peach, Walnut, apricot, persimmon and grapes);
heat-loving (cherry, pear, plum, cherry, apple tree);
less heat-loving (gooseberries, currants, car and strawberries).
The lack of heat in some years inhibits vegetative growth, impairs the process of pollination and fertilization of flowers, reduces the yield and quality of fruits, delays the growing season and worsens the readiness of plants for winter.
Fruit and berry plants also respond differently to the duration of the warm period. With a prolonged decrease in temperature, the growing season increases, shoot growth and fruit ripening slow down, and, as a rule, their quality deteriorates. The need of plants for warmth in different phases of vegetation is not the same. Spring growth of taloni roots begins when the soil temperature reaches 4-5 °C, pears - 6-7, cherries - 6 °C. For active root growth, a higher soil temperature is required - from 8 to 20 ° C. With a sharp increase or decrease in soil temperature, root growth stops. For the growth of above-ground parts fruit plants a relatively high temperature is required. If the swelling of the buds in apple trees and other plants begins at 5 ° C, then their blooming and growth of shoots - at an air temperature above 10 ° C. For normal flowering, pollination and fertilization, plants need a temperature of 15-20 ° C. At low air temperatures, pollen that has fallen on the stigma of the pistil does not germinate and fertilization does not occur.
Early autumn and late spring frosts, severe frosts and deep winter thaws often cause damage to individual tissues, organs and parts of fruit trees, and sometimes their death.
Not always helpful excess heat during the growing season. Elevated temperature stops the growth of the root and above-ground systems, accelerates the flowering process, causes fruit anomalies, etc.
The temperature regime also plays an important role in a period of relative rest. In autumn and early winter, at 0-2 ° C, the roots still absorb nutrients from the soil, synthesis occurs in their tissues. organic compounds, in the aerial part, the deposition of reserve substances continues. The formation of fruit buds, which began in June-July, with favorable conditions continues in autumn, and the beginnings of flower buds overwinter more developed. Dangerous for fruit plants very low temperatures in winter. Most sensitive to frost root system.
The roots of dwarf rootstocks of apple trees, as well as strawberries, die at a soil temperature of -8-10 ° C, and the roots of rootstocks of wild forest apple trees and seedlings of Antonovka ordinary at -14 ° C
The root system is especially affected in snowless winters, as well as after dry summers and autumns.
At severe frosts the bark and wood in the forks of trees and at the base of boles are especially damaged, since physiological processes and preparation for a period of deep dormancy are completed later in their tissues. Often, plants are damaged by frost in late winter and early spring (February-March).
During this period, there are sudden changes in temperature: from -10-20 at night to -5-10 °С during the day. Daytime positive temperatures contribute to the beginning of the vegetation, so the tissues come out of dormancy, lose their hardening and lose their ability to withstand night frosts. Under such conditions, the bark of boles suffers from sunburn, as well as
flower buds, especially in stone fruits (plum, cherry, sweet cherry). Very dangerous late spring frosts coinciding with the phase of mass flowering of trees and shrubs. very sensitive to low temperatures stamens, pistils and ovules. At a temperature of -1 - 1.5 ° C, the stigmas and ovules of plum and cherry perish, and at -2 ° C, the young ovaries of the apple tree.
Individual parts have different winter hardiness fruit tree: the aerial part is more winter-hardy than the root system; growth buds are more resistant to low temperatures than flower buds. In turn, the flowering buds of stone fruit plants are more sensitive to frost than pome plants.
In conditions middle lane the air temperature in winter usually does not fall below the level dangerous for fruit plants, and the growing season has a favorable temperature regime, and long enough. The possibility of growing breeds and varieties in specific areas is determined by the sum of biologically active temperatures and winter conditions, which should be strictly taken into account when developing breed and variety zoning. Different breeds and even varieties of the same breed have different degrees of winter hardiness. Resistance to low temperatures, which is determined by the frost and winter hardiness of plants, is the main limiting factor in the cultivation of certain breeds and varieties in the middle zone.
When it comes optimal time for planting trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, it is worth remembering the most common mistakes when planting plants in order to avoid them.
Mistake 1. Non-compliance optimal timing landing. Depending on the region and planting material landing is carried out at the following times:
- in the southern regions - plants with an open root system are planted in autumn and winter: from the end of November to the end of February, with a closed root system (in containers) - throughout the year (in summer with shading);
- in northern regions - spring planting is preferable before the start of the growing season, it is better to plant plants with a closed root system.
- for shrub seedlings - 70 x 70 cm,
- for plants with a lump - more than the size of a lump by at least 30 cm,
- for a hedge, a trench is being prepared instead of holes.
Mistake 3. Ignoring the consequences of construction. In areas under construction, large quantity construction debris, it is necessary to dig holes with a size of at least 150x100 cm with a complete replacement of the soil. To fill the pit, humus-soddy land is prepared at the rate of 20-25 kg of rotted manure per pit or running meter ditches.
Error 4. Mixing soil layers. When preparing planting pits, one of the most common mistakes is the mixing of the upper fertile layer with the lower - infertile. Only suitable for backfilling roots fertile soil. Planting pits are filled with humus or compost (10-20 kg for trees, 6-8 kg for shrubs) mixed with soil. In the first year of planting, it is not recommended to use mineral fertilizers.
Mistake 5. Making fresh manure. In the planting pits, some novice gardeners make fresh manure, which can burn the roots and the entire plant. When planting, only rotted manure is used; apply slightly decomposed manure into landing pit also undesirable, since there is a high probability of a decrease in plant survival.
Mistake 6. Do not drain. On heavy, clayey, too wet soils, they forget to make mandatory drainage from broken brick and sand.
Mistake 7. Forgetting to revise the root system. When planting plants with an open root system, they forget to inspect the roots, trim the dried tips and remove damaged roots. Roots must not be allowed to dry out. When planting plants, the roots are straightened, they monitor whether the seedling has deviated to the side, has not turned out to be too high or low planted.
Mistake 8. The position of the root neck is incorrectly determined(the place where the trunk goes to the root). When planting grafted plants, the position of the root neck is not taken into account. As a rule, it should be at ground level. If the plant is obtained from a cutting, the root neck is not expressed, and some deepening (by 3-5 cm) of seedlings is quite acceptable. The exception is clematis, in which the root neck is deepened by at least 5-10 cm (young plants) and 10-12 cm (adults), as well as flower perennials, in which the rhizome grows vertically upwards (astilbe, geyhera, large rhizome geranium) : they can be deepened by a few centimeters. Plants with a basal rosette of leaves are planted so that the center of the rosette is not buried in the ground.
Mistake 9. Forget about pruning plants. Weak and broken shoots are removed before planting. Roses leave 3-4 strong shoots, which are shortened at about a height of 10-15 cm, leaving 2-4 buds on them.
Mistake 10. They heard about the "miraculous" clay mash, which increases the survival rate of plants during planting, but they are too lazy to do it. To prepare a clay mash, a small amount of clay is added to 10 liters of water (so that after dipping in a mash, a small amount of clay remains on the hand). thin layer clay), 1 tablet of heteroauxin or a bag of root (you can use any other root stimulator, according to the instructions) and 1 kg of rotted manure. Add components in the order listed. The roots treated with mash must be dried for 30 minutes on outdoors, and then plant the plant in prepared moistened pits.
Mistake 11. Forget about watering before planting. It is important to water the dressed planting hole before planting.
Error 12. When planting plants with a closed root system, the root ball is not preserved; this often happens if the plant has not been watered before it is released from the container.
Mistake 13. Forget about supports and a garter. Seedlings planted on the windward side must necessarily be tied to support stakes, which are installed in the pits before or during planting; immediately establish a support for vines.
Mistake 14. Do not follow the recommendations for watering plants after planting and mulching. The soil around the planted plants must be well compacted, watered and mulched with sawdust, crushed bark or peat to reduce moisture evaporation and curb the development of weeds.
Mistake 15. Forget about shelter. In the year of planting, young plants are forgotten to cover with spruce branches to protect them from frost and frost (this is especially true for coniferous, evergreen rhododendrons).
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