How to plant climbing roses in spring. Prune in spring

A climbing rose is a spectacular garden decoration that can disguise any, even the most unsightly area or a high wall. But in order for it to play the role of an ornamental plant, it needs to bloom regularly. And flowering directly depends on the conditions of detention and the characteristics of caring for the shrub. Let's find out how to properly plant a climbing rose in the spring in open ground, and how to care for it so that it takes root and grows healthy.

Climbing roses are usually planted in autumn. This time of year has a lot of advantages: it’s still warm outside, rooting is fast, pink shoots have already matured and are ready for wintering, and on next year the bush grows as intensively as everyone else. But autumn planting is rarely used in the north, where winter comes early, and there is almost no time left for the rooting of the rose. It is also impossible to delay planting if you have already prepared a seedling.

Landing features climbing rose spring is due to the fact that she needs time to take root and adapt to new conditions. All this inhibits the growth of the aerial part. As a result, the bush lags behind in development from other shrubs by about 2 weeks, and it may happen that by the onset of cold weather the stems do not have time to mature (woody). Then death awaits them in the winter. To prevent this from happening, after the spring planting, the rose needs to be provided with optimal conditions and intensive care. Then it not only adapts quickly, but also catches up with other plants in development.

Best time to land

The timing of planting a climbing rose in the spring depends on the local climate and weather, which cannot be predicted. However experienced growers yet determined the approximate time suitable for this:

In the south of the country, roses are planted in open ground with the onset of April. The deadline is early May.
In central Russia and in the Moscow region, the climate is more severe, so it is better to plant bushes from late April to late May.
In the Urals and Siberia with a harsh continental climate, it is advisable to plant from late May to mid-June.

You can't just follow these guidelines. Therefore, keep an eye on the weather and soil conditions. It should have time to warm up to + 8 ... + 10 ° C. Otherwise, the roses will take root and take root poorly. For landing, you should choose a cloudy and quiet day, when there will be no bright sun, precipitation and strong wind.

Choosing a place and necessary conditions

We will tell you what requirements the site on which you are going to plant a climbing rose should meet.

Lighting and location

For roses, lighting is very important. They love it when the sun shines on them all day long. However, choosing a sunny location for a climbing shrub is very difficult: after all, it is usually planted near high fences and walls that close the place on at least one side. Then one should be guided by the fact that rose bushes the most important are the morning rays of the sun. Therefore, choose a site on which sunlight will fall at least from the east, and preferably from the southeast. Then your beauty will quickly take on growth.

Important! In the first days after planting a rose in the ground, it will need to be shaded from the scorching rays of the sun. This will help to avoid sunburn. When the bush takes root, the need for shading the shrub will disappear.

Temperature

The pink shrub tolerates the warm Russian summer well and even the heat, subject to frequent and plentiful watering. But in winter it is not very comfortable for him: most varieties of roses belong to the 5th winter hardiness zone. This means that without shelter, they can only survive frosts down to -25 ... -20 ° C. Therefore, they need to be covered for the winter.

Attention! Some varieties may belong to the 4th or even 3rd winter hardiness zone. They can withstand, respectively, up to -30 ... -35 ° C and -35 ... -40 ° C. In the first case, the rose will only need a light shelter, and in the second it can not be built at all (with the exception of the Urals and Siberia, where frosts often fall below marks at -40 ° C).

Air and humidity

Roses need moderately humid air (40-70%), which is maintained independently in the summer. An angular location (planting near the corner of a wall) is not suitable for a climbing shrub, as it does not tolerate drafts. It is best to plant it at a distance of 0.6 m from the middle of the wall or other support in another area, protected from through wind.

Priming

Rose bushes are best suited for light fertile loam with good drainage and a neutral reaction. They do not tolerate close proximity. ground water: it is not necessary that the roots reach them, and they can grow up to 2 meters in depth. If the waters are located close to the surface, and the area itself is swampy, then when constructing a landing pit, it is necessary to provide for the construction of drainage. So that the water does not stagnate in the ground, it is better to plant a rose on a slightly inclined plane.

When choosing seedlings, pay attention to the following nuances:

The root system must be well developed, healthy and strong. Do not take seedlings if the roots have become sluggish, most likely, the bush was dug up a long time ago, and it has become very weak.
Shoots must be healthy and strong. They should not have sick and frail stems.
The color of the trunk should be green. If it is gray or brown, we pass by such a seedling.

Before planting, a climbing rose needs to be prepared in order to smooth out the stress it experiences and help it settle down faster:

Soak its roots in water for one day. You can add a little potassium permanganate to get a light pink solution.
Then soak it for 3-4 hours (maximum - 10-12 hours) in a growth stimulator solution (Zircon, Kornevin).
Remove the bush and, if necessary, trim it. It will be necessary to remove not only shoots up to 20-25 cm, but also damaged roots to healthy tissue.
Places with a cut before planting should be treated with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol or another fungicide.

Important! In some nurseries, seedlings are sold not with an open root system, but with an earthen clod. They are usually packaged in biodegradable material. Such bushes can be planted directly in the package without pre-treatment of the roots. But this is on condition that you land immediately after purchase.

Planting process

To plant a climbing rose in spring, you will need the following tools, items and materials:

gloves (to keep hands clean and protect them from being pierced by spikes);
shovel (for digging a landing hole);
drainage material (it can be expanded clay, crushed brick, crushed stone or other large fraction stones), as well as sand;
fertilizers superphosphate, potassium magnesia or potassium sulfate (preferably granular, as they will nourish the plant throughout the entire growing season);
peat and humus (for easy cooking, loose and nutritious soil mixture);
dolomite flour, wood ash or lime (for soil deoxidation);
warm water (for irrigation) and a bucket for it;
shelter for shading roses.

After preparing the seedling for planting, prepare the planting hole:

Dig a hole about 0.6-0.7 m deep and wide. Optimal Distance between holes - 1 m.
If you plant a bush in a swampy area, then the depth should be greater - about 0.8-0.9 m (for drainage). Lay at the bottom of the hole thick layer(15-20 cm) of crushed brick or large gravel, and pour about 5 cm of coarse river sand on top.
Prepare a nutritious and loose mixture. To do this, mix peat and humus in equal proportions. If the soil is acidic, then it will be additionally useful to add about 1 kg of wood ash or 500-600 g of lime or dolomite flour. Mix everything thoroughly.
Fill the hole with nutrient mixture 30-40%. Add granular fertilizer to it: 2-3 handfuls of superphosphate and 1 handful of potassium sulfate or potassium magnesia.

Plant roses in the prepared hole:

Place the seedling in the hole and distribute its roots evenly throughout the volume.
Holding the bush with one hand, fill the empty space between the roots with the nutrient mixture with the other.
When the roots are sprinkled, pour a bucket of warm water into the hole. Pour carefully so as not to wash off the covered soil.
Fill the pit to the top with the nutrient mixture, root neck at the same time, it should be deepened by about 10-12 cm.
Compact the soil in the hole and build a small earthen rampart around it. It will be needed so that the water during irrigation does not spill over the entire surface of the soil, but is absorbed directly in the zone of the root system.

Advice! After planting a climbing rose in open ground, shade it for 10-14 days if the bright sun is shining outside.

How to tie a climbing rose

A climbing rose needs a support. Often it is enough just to plant it near it, for example, near the following structures:

arch;
wall;
fence;
pergola or gazebo;
dry tree trunk.

But if the support does not have places to cling to, or it does not exist at all, then the rose needs to be tied up. To do this, use a thick garden twine (be sure to carry out the procedure with gloves and with an assistant):

Gather the lashes into a compact bush.
Ask an assistant to hold the rose in this position.
Wrap the shrub around with garden twine and tie it into a strong knot.

Now the climbing rose is tied up, but she also needs support. If there is no slatted surface or small ledges on the wall, fence or gazebo for the plant to cling to, build a rope or wire mesh. You can simply tie a strong rope to the top of the support, and tie a peg to the lower end and stick it near the bush. 3-4 such rope supports are enough for the rose to crawl up along them.

Another support option is the construction wooden pyramid from thin but strong wooden blocks. In the pictures below, see how you can tie climbing roses so that they look beautiful.

After planting a climbing rose, she needs to provide intensive care so that she grows faster, and her shoots have time to ripen for hibernation. Care includes:

Watering. Water the rose abundantly (10-20 liters of warm settled water) as needed before the onset of frost. In heat and drought, the frequency of watering should be 4-6 times a week, the rest of the time - 2-3 times. Closer to frost, watering should be reduced to 1 time per week.
top dressing. If you have introduced ash and granular fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium into the planting pit, then 2 fertilizing with nitrogen will be enough during the season. Young roses prefer organic. To do this, 2-3 weeks after planting the bush in the ground, feed it with mullein (1 part in 10 parts of water, infused for 7 days). You can also use an infusion of chicken manure (1 part to 20 parts of water, infused for a week). Such top dressing should be repeated in the middle of summer, but in the second half and autumn, nitrogen cannot be applied to the soil.
Loosening and/or mulching e. When a dense crust is formed, it must be broken. But this must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots. Instead of loosening the soil, it can be covered with a layer of mulch - pieces of bark, sawdust, decorative stones.
treatment for diseases. During the rainy season, spray the rose once a week with a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. The rest of the time, you can treat 1 time 2 weeks with Fitosporin or Zircons to form immunity to fungal infections.
Pest control. If an aphid bush is affected, treat it with soapy water. If other pests appear, use insecticides (Aktar, Aktellik, Chlorophos or Karbofos). The second treatment should be carried out 1 week after the first.
Sanitary pruning. In autumn, when the first frosts come, the climbing rose needs to be cut. For sanitary pruning it is enough to remove all weak, thin, damaged and diseased shoots, as well as those that did not have time to ripen by winter. You can not leave them, as they will die when severe frosts. The same applies to flowers and leaves, if they themselves have not fallen off.
Formative pruning. It can be done both in spring and autumn. The rules for the procedure depend on which pruning group your rose belongs to. If flowers are formed on the shoots of this year, then the old shoots need to be shortened greatly. And if flowering occurs only on last year's stems, then they need to cut off only the top. With a mixed type, neither old nor young shoots can be severely cut.
Shelter for the winter. If your rose variety is thermophilic (most likely it is), then it must be covered for the winter. This can be done in two ways. The first is to remove the whips from the support and cover them with spruce paws and a layer of waterproof material. The second is in the construction of a frame around the rose and wrapping it with roofing felt or other material. Then the void inside the frame is covered with dry foliage, and covered with a film on top. In any case, the trunk must be spudded or covered with peat.

Climbing roses look very elegant. At proper care they can bloom throughout the summer, forming lush bedspreads of double and fragrant flowers. With them you can mask all the unsightly parts of the garden and outbuildings. They can become the main focus and create a romantic atmosphere. But for this you need to try and give the bush all your love and care.

Ornamental shrubs are planted in spring and autumn. autumn planting roses are preferable, but in this case it is difficult to guess with the weather. It is easier to get seedlings in spring, so planting roses in spring is used more often.

planting material

In the spring, seedlings of three types are sold.

with open roots. In this case, already in the store, you can choose an instance with a strong root system. An open seedling dries up at home in a matter of days, so after buying it, it is lowered into the water, where it should lie for at least a night, and only after that they start planting.
Seedlings in bags with roots packed in peat. After the purchase, the package is cut, the roots twisted into a ring are released, straightened with their hands and proceed to planting.
Seedlings in pots. Before planting, the seedling is removed from the container and the earth is shaken off the roots.

Flower seedlings begin to sell in early spring, in February-March, long before the planting of roses in the ground begins. It is better to keep them until planting in the garden. They are taken out to the garden early and dug in a light penumbra in a high place, free from melt water. A seedling with unawakened buds in the spring in a prikop withstands up to minus 8 degrees.

Dig a trench and lay the seedlings at an angle of 45 degrees. The roots are whole, and the shoots are half covered with earth, leaving only the tips of the branches outside. In spring, they can stay in this position for up to a month. They are taken out of the dig before landing, as needed, and immediately planted in the landing pits.

Planting climbing roses, standard and spray roses in the spring is carried out in the same way. At the seedling, before planting, the tips of the roots are cut off (so that they branch better) and the cuts are refreshed. Sometimes the above-ground part is covered with wax. It is better to remove it before planting, otherwise it will melt in the bright spring sun and damage the bark. To accelerate the survival rate, seedlings are soaked in a growth stimulant before planting: sodium humate, epine, heteroauxin.

A pit for planting is prepared large enough, given that the plant will grow strongly in diameter, and generously seasoned with organic matter, as flowers love good nutrition.
soil in landing pit should be rich in nutrients. The mechanical composition of the soil is very important. If the soil is clayey, a little sand is added along with organic matter, and if sandy, clay.
It is better to prepare the pit in advance - from autumn or two weeks before disembarkation. It is necessary that the earth has time to settle, otherwise the seedling will “pull” deep into. Landing is dry and wet. In the first case, the roots are lowered into the pit, covered and watered. In the second, the pit is first filled with water, then the roots are lowered into this “porridge” and covered with a dry mixture from above.
In both cases, the roots must be straightened along the bottom of the pit. The seedling is watered immediately after planting. If it is “pulled” down after watering, then it is pulled out a little.
After planting, lightly spud with compost to retain moisture in the shoots until rooting. 10-15 days after planting, the compost must be raked off, otherwise the plant will move to its own roots. The first buds are pinched off so that the still insufficiently rooted plant does not waste energy on flowering.

As a rule, grafted plants are grown in culture. When planting, the graft should be buried no more than 2-3 cm into the ground. If the graft is at the top, then shoots will break through from the roots, which will later turn out to be an ordinary wild rose.

Stories about how a rose “reborn” in a few years are connected precisely with the wrong position of the graft during planting. If the vaccination is deepened, then the shrub will grow its own roots and will grow much worse, it will begin to freeze.

Important! A rose graft is a place on a seedling from which shoots grow.

rose care

Care for roses in spring begins with the removal of shelters. Opening time depends on the weather. It is impossible to give an exact date, even within the same region, the dates may differ by two weeks. If the plants were covered with a film or covering material, they must be removed as soon as possible - otherwise the roses may get wet, which is much more dangerous than spring freezing.

The bushes are straightened, lifted from the soil. If there is white mold at the base of the bush, then you should not worry - it will disappear in a few weeks. Snow mold affects damaged shoots - that is, it is not the cause of death, but its consequences.

It is much worse if in the spring at the base of the bush a fluffy gray mold is found (it is correct to call it “gray rot”), as it indicates decay. Branches damaged by gray rot are cut out to healthy tissue, and the core of the bush is plentifully sprinkled.

Bushes slightly covered with mold can be treated with copper-containing preparations: oxychome, copper sulphate. Also, the propped branch may have an olive color. Over time, such an escape will either come to life, or freeze in growth and wither.

It is better not to raise standard and climbing plants in spring immediately after opening, because in the bright spring sun they can dry out in a matter of days - it is better to leave them to lie on the ground for another week or two.

Immediately after opening, proceed to the primary pruning. Dry, frozen shoots in winter are cut with secateurs. They can be distinguished from living ones by their black color. Having cut off the shoot, you need to look at the cut - if the core turns out to be brown, then the shoot is frozen, and it is cut to the place where the light core appears.

On the shoot, frost cracks can be found - vertical ruptures of the bark. If there are few of them, then the branch is left. But if the tissue around the crack has darkened, this indicates that an infection has already penetrated the wound - then the branch is cut off.

An infectious burn may appear on the shoot - black spots in a raspberry border, which in severe cases completely ring the shoot. An infectious burn does not appear immediately, but a week or two after opening the bush. Such shoots are also cut out.

Climbing roses - spring care

Care for climbing roses that have overwintered poorly is pruning: all damaged shoots are cut as short as possible using a lopper or pruner. They try to remove everything dead and sick from the bush to the maximum. Sometimes, after spring pruning, not a single shoot remains on the rose. In this case, the grafting site is vacated on the stump, raking the soil - this is done so that the buds sleeping under the bark wake up faster.

If there are lagging areas of the bark on the stump, you can make a kind of peeling - peel them off with your hands and pruners. After cleansing, the grafting to accelerate the growth of rose buds creates conditions of high humidity. To do this, cover the stump with a cut plastic bottle. New buds can wake up even in June, so the bottle is not removed until mid-summer and even until autumn - there is always a chance that the plant will wake up and come to life.

In the spring, all plant residues with pathogens are removed from the flower garden. Spring cleaning of the soil from last year's leaves and branches will relieve many troubles in the summer. Collected leaves are best not to lay in the compost, they are burned so as not to spread the disease.

In the spring, the earth in the flower garden should be loosened and even dug up with a pitchfork, since it has caked over the winter, air exchange has been disturbed in it. At this time, weeds are actively growing, and digging will get rid of them. The queen of flowers does not like competition very much, so caring for her involves keeping the soil clean.

After the first loosening in the spring, it is time to feed. To do this, use rotted manure, compost or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers. Organics or fats are simply scattered on the surface of the soil and once again loosened with a narrow rake. During the winter, the position of the graft relative to the soil level may change and this needs to be corrected: add soil to the stem or, conversely, rake it.

Climbing roses, like spray roses, are one of the most popular forms in garden design. True, they have a completely different purpose: if bush species grown as tapeworms or bright accents, then climbing ones are most often used to decorate arbors, pergolas, arcade racks, or, like wild grapes, let them curl along the walls of buildings.

climbing roses (Rosa x hybrida hort) belong to the Rosaceae family. This species combines all climbing varieties of roses and was bred from 2 wild groups of roses: R. multiflora Thunb and R. wichuraiana Crep.

Flexible long shoots creep or arc up, small leaves are rigid, small flowers reach a diameter of 2.2–5 cm, petals are simple or double. The flowers are collected in large inflorescences. The aroma is faint or non-existent. The color of the petals can be white, pink or red. It blooms once, but for a long time (about 30-35 days). Flowers are located along the entire length of the shoots. Varieties of this species are winter hardy, and therefore a hard dry shelter is suitable for them.

Flowering in most varieties of climbing roses occurs once, and occurs at the beginning of summer, while only last year's lashes bloom. Therefore, it is so important for these plants to survive the winter well in order to preserve last year's lashes.

According to the description, climbing roses are very similar to spray roses. They have the same beautiful and rich in color leaves. The shoots are 1.5–5 m long, which allows planting quite tall objects.

How to plant a climbing rose (with video)

Usually climbing roses are planted on the sunny side of the house so that they receive sunlight most of the day. sunlight important not only for the current flowering, but also for the formation of new strong shoots responsible for flowering next year. However, it is advisable to plant them in places where they can be in the shade for a couple of hours a day, which will make the flowering period longer.

To each of the gardeners who love to breed beautiful flowers in your suburban area, you should know the following. Rosa does not like stagnant water, so groundwater should lie at a depth of no more than one and a half meters. A pit for planting a rose must be made in a special way and carefully ensure that it is 0.5 by 0.5 meters in size. It is important. Further, part of the excavated soil sinks to the bottom, and river sand and a bucket of humus are added to the pit with a slide. And it would be very good if the owner suburban area attended to the purchase of a fertilizer such as superphosphate.

In the hole, it must be put in a proportion of 3-4 tablespoons. Based on the fact that the elongated lashes of the plant will need to be correctly laid on winter period, planting plants close to each other is not necessary.

The stems of the seedlings must be pruned by 30 centimeters, and then the rhizomes should be soaked in liquid clay. In addition, the rose is very fond of such a simple and well-known fertilizer to every novice gardener as cow dung. In a village where a shepherd takes the cows for a walk, there will be no problems with him. In addition, manure is sold specialized companies who work in this area.

Climbing roses are planted so that the root neck is covered with a layer of earth of about 10 cm. If several rose bushes are planted nearby, then the distance between them is made at least one meter. If a rose is planted for landscaping a fence or wall of a house, then the distance from the planting site to the support should be about 45 cm.

It is advisable to mulch the soil under the roses with sawdust, grass or straw. During flowering, it is important to remove wilted flowers in time so that the flowering period lasts longer.

This video shows how to plant a climbing rose:

The following describes how to grow climbing roses in the country and how to care for these flowers.

How to grow climbing roses in the country and how to properly care for them in the garden

The climbing rose is drought tolerant and should be watered no more than once a week.

You need to feed the rose 3-4 times during the growing season, either with mullein infusion, or complex fertilizer for roses.

Due to the large weight of the rose branches, it needs a fairly strong support, preferably wooden (it will prevent the plant from freezing in winter). In regions with cold winters, roses need shelter. With the onset of frost from minus 5 ° C, the shoots are removed from the supports, laid on the ground. It is better to put it on dry leaves or spruce branches, and cover with the same materials. A film is laid on top of such natural protection. In the spring, the shelter is removed and the rose is returned to the support.

When laying the branches of a rose on a support, it should be remembered that the shoots must be fixed not vertically, but horizontally, obliquely or in a spiral, then the forces of the plant will not be directed to the growth of shoots, but to the formation of flowers.

When caring for climbing roses outdoors, pruning is essential. This is a guarantee of a healthy appearance and abundant flowering. In the spring, it is necessary to prune frozen and weak branches, and after flowering, it is advisable to cut off those shoots that have faded, which will be an excellent incentive for the formation of new replacement shoots and rejuvenation of the bush.

This plant is especially beautiful in blooming form. But for the cultivation of climbing roses in the middle latitudes of Russia, a lot of effort needs to be made. Planting is carried out in early spring. To do this, the gardener on his site must choose a specific place. It should not be very cold, but not hot, in direct sunlight. If we talk about what kind of soil is best suited for such a rose, then it is best to bring loamy and fertile soil to the site.

Thus, in order to grow climbing roses as lush as possible, pleasing with their sophistication and beauty, it is necessary to carry out a series of manipulations:

plant a seedling in the right way;
timely feed the seedling;
shelter for the winter cold;
open in time in the spring - with the onset of heat;
cut properly.

When growing climbing roses in open ground, it is necessary to carry out preventive control of pests and plant diseases.

Planting and caring for climbing roses are shown in this video:

How to propagate climbing roses from cuttings

Cuttings are a method known to both the amateur and the professional. The question rightfully arises as to the reason for such popularity. The answer lies in the number of plants produced and the high chance of establishment. A shoot is selected 10 days after flowering, on which there should be about three buds ready for growth.

Before propagating climbing roses, cuttings must be prepared. This is done in advance. The width of the cuttings should vary from 0.5-0.7 cm, length - from 16 to 20 cm. From above, the cut should be straight, below - at an angle of 45 degrees. A beveled cut under the kidney at the bottom is necessary for roots to grow from the kidney. At the next stage, the cuttings must be kept in the growth solution "Kornevin" or "Heteroauxin" for 12 hours. Finally, the seedling must be planted in soil with a mixture of earth and sand.

It is also possible to propagate cuttings in water. After that, it is worth covering the future roses with a jar or, in the case of using water, cover with a film. This is done to maintain the desired degree of humidity around the plant.

When propagating climbing roses, it is important to observe the following conditions: constant air temperature from 22 to 24 degrees; sufficient lighting; do not remove the film or jar before rooting.

Roses are grafted onto wild roses in order to get earth-resistant seedlings faster and cheaper. And roses of own-rooted properties can be brought to such a result only after three years. This is less beneficial for producers due to the increase in the cost of seedlings due to an increase in their cost. Own-rooted roses are obtained by cutting a cutting that has three buds. And in order to plant a dogrose, use only one kidney. This is more beneficial for the manufacturer.

The next section of the article is devoted to how to choose climbing roses suitable for the climatic conditions of Russia.

How to choose climbing roses: winter hardiness of plants

It is worth considering that in the conditions of central Russia, the length of the shoots on the bushes is more modest, and flowering is not so long and plentiful. The main drawback of climbing roses in this area is the need to shelter them for the winter, for which every year, late autumn, the whips have to be removed from the supports, bent down in the ground and covered.

Another secret when breeding climbing roses is the correct selection of varieties. Of the many varieties offered in firms and shopping malls, not everyone will grow well and bloom profusely in your area. Sometimes you have to try many varieties in order to find the most suitable for this place. However, for true flower lovers, these difficulties are not an obstacle. Often, in our relatively harsh zone, you can see garden compositions with abundantly blooming roses.

The culture of climbing roses in Europe has about 200 years. During this time, dozens of varieties and forms of climbing roses have been bred, however, European varieties have not received in our country. widespread, as well as the culture of climbing roses itself, due to the insufficient winter hardiness of European varieties in the conditions of Russia.

Until today, it has not been possible to pick up a single reliable wintering variety even for the south of the Black Earth region, where short-term winter frosts down to -28 ... -30 ° C are not uncommon.

In the conditions of a frosty winter, the entire above-ground part of the bushes of European varieties freezes to the level of snow, while only powerful, developed bushes, in which the shoots of previous years of development overwintered well, can give an excellent decorative effect. None of these varieties has natural leaf fall in our conditions. The leaves remain green until frost, and then frost over. Unripe annual shoots die off during winter frosts, becoming "gates" for the penetration of a fungal, viral infection and usually lead to the death of the entire bush.

Such roses can winter in Russia only under cover, for which the shoots must be annually removed from supports, tied up, cleared of foliage, cut out non-lignified shoots and covered with spruce branches, burlap, spunbond. Since the sheltering procedure is complex and time-consuming, covering varieties of roses have no prospects in mass gardening.

Search winter-hardy species climbing roses and the breeding of non-covering roses for the conditions of Russia is one of the urgent and interesting tasks.

Work on the development of winter-hardy non-covering roses for Russian gardens is currently being carried out by Ph.D. s.-x. sciences, head. department scientific research and innovative developments of the Rossoshanskaya Zonal Horticulture Experimental Station in Voronezh. A. I. Sychev.

Breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses (with photo)

Taking into account that the genetic material for breeding varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses must be sought among poorly studied species roses or hybrids with frost-resistant species as one of the parents.

The attention of the researcher was attracted by roses Kordesa is a cultivating new group of roses, created in the middle of the last century by the German rose breeder W. Kordes.

The basis of the new group of roses was a spontaneous hybrid of the Vihurayana climbing rose and the wrinkled rose. (R. rugosa).

Hybrid named "Max Graf" ("Max Graf") refers to climbers, blooms profusely simple flowers, but does not bear fruit due to the genetic remoteness of the parents. On the bushes of this variety, which grew in the Kordes nursery, a bud mutation occurred, as a result of which the number of chromosomes doubled and two fruits were tied on a matted branch. One of the seedlings grown from the seeds of these fruits turned out to be a tetraploid and became the founder of a new group of roses. Thanks to the genes of the wrinkled rose, which tolerates frosts down to -40 ° C and more without shelter, Kordes roses are much more winter-hardy than the old varieties of climbing roses. However, the genes of the Vihurayana rose do not allow Kordes roses to winter in Russia without shelter.

This statement also applies to the most winter-hardy of the Cordes climbing roses - the Flammentants variety. (Flammentanz) - the best red climbing rose for the climate of Russia, grown in a covering culture. Bright red semi-double flowers of this variety are collected in small inflorescences. The first flowering of the variety at the beginning of summer is extremely abundant, and during the second wave of flowering, 40–50 flowers are formed at the ends of the shoots.

The Flammentanz rose can be used as a genetic basis for breeding winter-hardy non-covering roses. To do this, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of her offspring by 6–7°C, expand the color palette and increase the broadness.

Due to the tetraploidy nature of Kordes roses, they easily cross with modern varieties of hybrid tea, floribunda and climbings. Hybrids with Flammentants have large double, semi-double and simple flowers, collected in small inflorescences of predominantly red, raspberry and pink color. Their flowering, as a rule, is single, but some hybrids have the ability to not abundantly re-bloom. In terms of winter hardiness, they are significantly superior to hybrid tea roses, but slightly inferior to Flammentants. One of the best hybrids was named "Nostalgia". This is a vigorous climbing rose with shoots up to 4-5 m long with large dark red double flowers.

Attempts to cross "Flammentants" with winter-hardy park roses, for example, a variety of winter-hardy prickly roses (R. pimpinellifolia) - Fryulingsgold. Most of the hybrids turned out to be of the bushy type, with light flowers with a “weak”, fine texture of the petals and low winter hardiness. Pollination of "Flammentants" with rosehip pollen

Rosa Vihurayana (« R. wichuraiana”), originally from Korea, southern Japan, China often grows as a creeping plant. Climbing shoots of this species are covered with shiny evergreen small foliage, which it transfers to its varieties. The winter hardiness of this species and the varieties derived from it is even lower than that of the multi-flowered rose.

The most common variety of "Excelsa" (« Excelsa”) is damaged by frost at -18 ... - 20 ° C. However, despite the need for annual shelter, this rose is widely grown in central Russia as one of the most stable, unpretentious and abundantly flowering climbing varieties.

Climbing roses from the group of climbers are most often climbing clones of common low-hardy hybrid tea roses, floribunda roses, remontant roses and winter hardiness differ little from them. The shoots of these roses freeze at -15 ... -20 ° C.

AT last years new winter-hardy roses of Canadian selection were brought to our country. One of the climbing roses, "William Buffin" ( "William Buffin"), after three years of testing in Rossosh showed higher winter hardiness than Flammentants.

The search for winter-hardy species among wild-growing ramblers was crowned with the discovery of the Maksimovich rose, which grows in the north of China, in Korea, and is quite common in southern Primorye ( R. maximowiciana).

Rosa Maksimovicha is a shrub with climbing or creeping shoots 5–6 m long. The leaves are leathery, shiny, decorative, consist of 7–9 pairs of leaflets, the leaves are 2–4 cm long, reminiscent of the evergreen leaves of the Vihurayana rose. In nature, the rose forms thickets on stony and sandy soils along coastal slopes and in floodplains no further than 20–40 km from the sea coast. It is very important that the development of Maksimovich's rose completely fits into growing season middle lane, natural leaf fall occurs in autumn, and fruits fully ripen in September. Fully winter-hardy rose in Rossosh, in Moscow (GBS) and in the south of western Siberia.

The flowers of the Maksimovich rose are 2.5–5 cm in diameter, collected in corymbose-paniculate inflorescences of 5–7 pieces, the petals are creamy yellow. The shoots of the Maksimovich rose overwinter in Voronezh and in the Moscow region directly on supports, without shelter, in the spring they are not damaged, in the summer the bushes bloom profusely. In Moscow, the Maksimovich rose at the age of 10 reaches a height of 2.6 m, the diameter of the bush is up to 3 m.

These photos show varieties of winter-hardy climbing roses:

Rosa Maksimovicha sets fruits well when pollinated by her pollen of climbing diploid varieties of small-flowered roses.

Among the hundreds of seedlings from pollination with pollen varieties "Thousendshon", "Ave Maria" (« Ave Maria”) and unnamed local roses, the breeder singled out specimens with decorative flowers and, more importantly, the timely completion of the growing season.

The most interesting are seedlings from the Maksimovich rose family × Thauzendshon.

They are distinguished by strong climbing growth (up to 5 m in length), have double or semi-double flowers of various structures, petal shapes, colors and flowering periods. The size of the flowers is medium-sized, which corresponds to the size of flowers in a group of ramblers, however, the flowers are collected in racemes from 3-5 to 20-30 pieces. There are seedlings with fragrant flowers.

Look at the photo of the varieties of climbing roses, the description of which is given above:

How climbing roses of different groups bloom

According to the world classification among climbing roses, two groups are distinguished:

Ramblers (Ramblers) and climbers (Large flowered climbers).

The first group includes wild-growing species from the Synstylae section and garden forms closely related to them. As a rule, these are powerful, with a height of shoots up to 3–6 m, species that bloom once in early summer, with small simple flowers in multi-flowered inflorescences. The second group includes complex hybrids, products of long-term selection with large flowers and repeated (remontant) flowering.

Roses from the group of ramblers are the most winter-hardy and promising for introduction to Russia. An analysis of the pedigree of modern European climbing roses - ramblers showed that two wild-growing species from China and Japan were used as the initial genetic material.

See how climbing roses of different groups bloom in these photos:

The first is a multi-flowered or polyanthus rose (R. multiflora). In mild winters, it winters well in Russia without shelter, but in frosts down to -30 ° C, the shoots freeze to the level of snow. In the old gardening manuals, the varieties of this rose are called among the most winter-hardy climbing roses for Russia, in order to obtain flowering varieties the multi-flowered rose was crossed with non-hardy remontant, hybrid tea, tea roses, so the varieties have a lower winter hardiness.

In our country, old varieties of multi-flowered roses are common, for example, Tauzenshon (« Tausendschon"). Varieties of the multi-flowered rose retain large stipules characteristic of the species, fringed along the edges.

Varieties of climbing roses: photos, names and descriptions

Among the most common varieties of climbing roses are the following:

"Aglaya" (Aglaia) has large flowers, collected in large inflorescences, petals are terry, straw-yellowish in color. Spreading bush blooms profusely.

"Alberic Barbier" (Alberic Barbier) has medium-sized yellow buds. The name of this variety of climbing roses was given by the French breeders who brought out this form. The flowers are large, collected in small inflorescences, the petals are double, creamy yellow at the edges and yellow in the center. The aroma is fragrant. shiny leaves beautiful shape, dark color. Climbing bush blooms profusely from June.

"American pillar" (American Pillar) are distinguished by open large flowers, reaching a diameter of 7 cm, collected in large inflorescences and located on strong shoots. Petals are non-double, carmine- color pink, white eye, golden stamens. Leathery, large, glossy leaves. When describing this variety of climbing roses, it is especially worth noting their height and power - strong bushes reach a height of 6 m, bloom profusely from May to June.

"Blaze" (Blaze) has large cupped flowers, collected in large inflorescences. Petals are semi-double, bright red. The aroma is weak. The leaves are leathery. A strong shrub with a spreading crown blooms profusely and repeatedly. The variety is propagated by cuttings, grafting and layering.

"Wartburg" (Wartburg) has small flowers collected in large inflorescences, double petals, crimson-pink. The aroma is fragrant. Vigorous shrub with smooth shoots, devoid of thorns, blooms profusely.

"Hayawata" (Hiawatha) is different small flowers, reaching a diameter of 3.5 cm, which are collected in inflorescences of 10–30 pieces. Petals are non-double, carmine red, white in the center. The leathery leaves are shiny. A strong bush reaches a height of 3 m, flowering occurs later than in other varieties of this species.

"Dorothy Perkins" (Dorothy Perkins) has small flowers up to 3 cm in diameter, collected in large inflorescences. Petals densely double, bright pink color with salmon. Large glossy, dark green leaves. Strong climbing shrub blooms profusely in June.

"Crimson Rambler" (Crimson Rambler) has flowers of medium size, collected in large pyramidal brushes. The petals are a bright crimson-red color, when they fade, they turn bluish. Leathery large leaves of a light green color. The bush is strong, climbing.

"Climbing Minnehaha" (Minnehaha) is distinguished by medium-sized flowers collected in inflorescences. Petals are terry, pink. The aroma is weak. A vigorous shrub reaches a height of 3.5-4 m, blooms once in late spring - early summer, propagated by cuttings and layering.

Feilchenblau (Veilchenblau) has small cupped flowers. Petals are semi-double, bright purple. The aroma is fragrant.

Here are photos of varieties of climbing roses, the description of which is given above:

Climbing roses in garden design and photos of plants at the time of flowering

Vertical gardening has importance in garden design. And the point is not only in the decorative effect, but also in the ability to divide the site into zones, hide from curious neighbors or disguise an unsightly structure.

There are many plants that are used in vertical gardening, and not the least of them is the rose.

Climbing roses in garden design can be used very widely. For example, decorate a fence, a wall of a building or a gazebo. You can braid an arch, a pergola over a gate, a bench or a path, or decorate retaining wall. Can be planted near special supports installed in flower beds, front gardens, on lawns.

Moreover, for each composition, varieties should be selected that are most suitable for each other in terms of texture, doubleness and color of flowers and other decorative features.

Climbing roses are excellent plants for vertical gardening, for decorating walls, decorating public places and recreation areas. In China and Japan, these plants have been used in landscaping for many centuries.

See how climbing roses look in the garden in these photos:

For successful breeding of these plants, you need to know about one of their features: the more evenly the lash is illuminated, the more flower buds are formed along the entire length of the shoot. And although modern varieties bloom fairly evenly, we must not forget about this nuance. How to care for climbing roses in the garden to achieve optimal lighting? This can be done by placing the lashes horizontally or at least with a slight slope.

If you know about this property, then thanks to a competent garter and the formation of lashes, you can increase the number of flowers, which will significantly affect the overall decorative effect.

Varieties with flexible shoots such as Super Excelsa, Super Dorothy, should be used to decorate narrow arches and pergolas, pillars or obelisks.

When forming a whip, you can tie it to the arch with a snake or simply wrap it in a spiral around a pillar or obelisk. This simple technique will allow the rose to bloom more abundantly.

Large-flowered Flamentanz type roses, in which the shoots are more powerful, it is preferable to decorate wide decorative lattices: it is convenient to lay out the whips on them with a fan.

If the variety has a good shoot-forming ability, then pruning can also achieve uniform flowering. To do this, the shoots are cut at different heights, which stimulates their growth.

In addition to the usual options for using climbing roses, there are also not quite standard ones. You can use a rose to decorate an old fruit tree. In this case, it is best to plant with south side, finding a place between the tree roots and stepping back 50 cm from the trunk. You can also dig in a root stop (for example, a piece of old linoleum or plastic) and a cut of a wide pipe or plastic bottle without bottom for spot watering and fertilizing roses. Next, the lashes need to be tied to the trunk in the intended direction.

Another interesting technique is the use of climbing roses as groundcover. It will look especially advantageous on a slope. Shoots can simply be laid on the ground, or even better, slightly raised and fixed on low arcs. The river of flowers flowing down the slope will amaze the imagination of all your guests.

Varieties of climbing roses that grow well in width and have tough shoots, such as Rozarium Uetersen, suitable for solitary planting on the lawn. They can be given the required forum (shaping) by trimming, as is the case with scrubs.

As low plants, some vigorous varieties of English roses can also be formed. In order to properly care for climbing roses, as experienced flower growers advise, you need to maintain the length of the shoots, cut moderately and form lashes on a support. Wide screens or obelisks are suitable as a support.

For this role, varieties such as:

Crown Princess Margaretha

Gertrude Jekyll

A Shropshire Lad

The Pilgrim and others

As for companions for climbing roses, the best of them are clematis. When choosing clematis, you need to achieve harmonious combinations using the technique of contrast in shape or color. You also need to consider the flowering time of both species; it is clear that they should bloom at the same time. Finally, it is necessary to take into account the growth pattern of the selected varieties of both roses and clematis. Usually clematis develop faster, so it is preferable to plant a rose first, give it at least a year to root and grow, and only then plant clematis next to it.

A certain distance must be maintained between the climbing rose and clematis, at least 60 cm. Moreover, if the rose needs to be directed to a support, then it is enough to help the clematis only at the very beginning. And then this climber will do just fine on his own, using a rose as a support.

As you know, in the middle lane, both roses and clematis must be covered for the winter. In this regard, they often argue which clematis are preferable - the second or third pruning group (read more about this in the third chapter), which ones are more convenient to cover with roses. It seems to many that the varieties of the third group will fit much better: for the winter, the lashes can simply be cut off at a height of 20 cm, there is no need to unravel and remove anything from the rose. In fact, varieties of both groups may be suitable. The fact is that many clematis of the third group are very powerful, tall, with a large number of shoots, and not every climbing rose can withstand such a neighborhood. Sometimes it is worth choosing elegant and modest clematis of the second group. Yes, and covering them is not so difficult: just cut the lashes at the level of a meter, cut off the foliage and cover the clematis along with the rose.

The bottom of a climbing rose may become bare with age. To decorate the lower part, you can plant roses of another group around, such as ground cover or floribunda, or companion plants that match in color.

In the climate of the middle lane, growing a climbing rose is not so easy. In order for her to appear in all her glory, she needs to provide favorable conditions wintering. When planning a flower garden, you must immediately foresee where you will put these, in general, rather big roses for the winter. To avoid disappointment, when choosing a climbing rose variety, pay attention to its winter hardiness and resistance to disease and precipitation. Read reviews on the Internet about it left by rose growers from your climate zone. Study the agrotechnical requirements, the most important of which is competent pruning. In addition, powerful climbing roses for lush flowering timely and balanced top dressing is necessary. Do not forget to tie up the whips in time. It is undesirable to use hard wire for this purpose, I use plastic clamps or twine made of natural material. In this case, you can not tie the whip to the support too tightly.

It is often recommended to plant climbing roses with a slight slope in the direction where the lashes are planned to be laid in the fall. It doesn't really matter; I did not notice a difference in crouching between those roses that I planted scientifically and those planted straight. If the variety has flexible shoots, it is easy to lay it in any planting. And in order to bend roses with hard shoots to the ground, you always need to make an effort.

When planting a rose near a fence or wall of the house, make sure that air circulates well between the plant and the wall. Also, remember that many materials get very hot on hot days, and this will be bad for colors. Therefore, roses must be attached to decorative grille, which should be at least 10 cm away from the wall. And the last. If you decide to decorate the wall of the house with a climbing rose, pay attention to where the water flows from the roof: it should not pour on the rose.

Curly roses (photos and videos of these blooming beauties are simply mesmerizing) - an aristocratic perennial, with graceful leaves and an abundance of bright fragrant flowers, they act as an exquisite and sophisticated garden decoration all summer. Growing and caring for them largely repeat the agricultural practices used in cultivation. spray roses, but there are also some important features.

Curly roses: planting, care, preparation for winter

Gorgeously blooming climbing roses are ideal for, but you can only get a magic carpet of beautiful flowers if you provide proper fit and rose care.

Landing

For planting a climbing rose, a sunny, well-ventilated place is selected, therefore optimal fit for a light-loving rose - walls or supports of southern or southwestern exposure. At good lighting growth is rapidly developing, which can bloom the very next year. The soil is fertile, moderately moist, with good drainage, loose. Planting a bush in a hole is preceded by introducing half a bucket of rotted manure into the hole and good watering.

Advice! Roses do not tolerate waterlogged soil, therefore the optimal level of groundwater occurrence is at least 1-1.5, otherwise roses are planted on a hill.

Even if the planting of a climbing rose is carried out for the purpose of decorating fence or walls, the distance to them must be at least 50 cm, otherwise, due to lack of space for development, the roots of the rose will suffer from exhaustion.

pruning

Correct and timely pruning allows you to form the right healthy crown and achieve abundant and long flowering. Climbing roses need to be cut at the end of summer or early autumn, after flowering has completely ended. First of all, damaged and diseased shoots are cut off, leaving the strongest and most developed annual shoots. The main purpose of pruning is to replace the old shoots with new, one-year ones, while leaving two-year shoots - the bulk of the flowers will be concentrated on them next summer.

Garter

Care for climbing roses must necessarily include control over the direction of growth of the bush, so the garter of climbing roses should be started as early as possible. At the same time, it is absolutely not necessary to direct the main branches strictly upwards - this can lead to the fact that at some point all the flowers and foliage will be concentrated in the upper part of the plant, due to which it will lose its aesthetics, exposing unattractive "bare" shoots below. To avoid this, you need to direct the main branches as horizontally as possible - this will provoke the appearance of side shoots that develop vertically. Using this approach, you can not only perfectly mask a wall or trellis, but also achieve a long and luxurious flowering.

Another way to mask the wall is to arrange the shoots in a “fan”, directing side shoots up and to the side, located freely, they will not interfere with each other.

Advice! If the planting of a climbing rose is carried out near a pole, then in order to achieve correct formation crowns, it will be enough just to twist the shoots of the rose in a spiral.

Shelter for the winter

Despite the fact that climbing roses are quite winter-hardy, even in the middle lane they need to be covered. Care and preparation begins in early autumn - soil loosening stops, nitrogen fertilizers are applied (they are replaced with potash fertilizers, which accelerate the ripening of the bark), and watering is reduced. There is no need to rush to cover the roses in the fall - in warm weather, the plant may begin to grow or rot. Shelter of climbing roses is carried out with the onset of persistent frosts, choosing a dry, non-rainy (non-snowy) day for this.

The main condition for the plant to endure the winter well is to keep an air layer under cover (between the plant and roofing felt, film, spruce branches), because in most cases roses do not die from frost, but with the onset of spring, from damping or soaking.

If possible, the plant is removed from the support, damaged and diseased leaves are cut off, and the leaves are cleaned. After that, the branches are tied with twine (rope) and with the help of hooks (wooden or metal) are pressed to the ground. (photo 1,2). At the same time, it is strictly forbidden to lay a rose directly on the ground, first you need to put spruce branches or dry leaves. From above, the whip can be covered with roofing felt, spruce spruce branches, burlap, film or dry leaves.

As a support for climbing roses, you can use both the walls of buildings or hedges, as well as arches specially designed and installed for this purpose, berso, pergolas, obelisks and trellises. Rose-covered trellises, bersots and pergolas will help create a special intimate romantic atmosphere in secluded corners of the garden all summer long. Columns and obelisks are installed in flower beds or on the lawn, they can be as a completely independent element. landscape design, as well as part mixborder.

Arches entwined with weaving roses are often installed at the entrance to the front garden or garden, thereby marking the transition from one garden zone (plot) to another. If you place several arches along the path, maintaining a distance of several meters between them, and supplement them with a number of molded trees and shrubs, then the landscape will acquire a characteristic classic garden solemnity and pomp. However, planting free-form plants will help achieve the exact opposite effect, adding romance and ease to the landscape.

Advice! When choosing a support design for a climbing rose, one should always take into account that its material and design as a whole must comply with the general architectural style home and garden.

If you decide to get your garden plot climbing roses, then you need to know all the stages of their planting. First, choose a place for roses, then prepare seedlings, soil. Let's consider each step in more detail.

1. Choice of place and time

The sun has a beneficial effect on roses, and waterlogging can be fatal for them. Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the site is well lit before lunch. The rays of the sun will dry the remnants of dew on the leaves. By doing this, you minimize the risk of developing fungal diseases.

At the same time, you should not choose a completely open place, because being under the scorching sun all day, the plant can burn its delicate petals and leaves.

It is better to protect the climbing rose from winds and drafts, so planting it on the corners of buildings is not recommended. It will be convenient if there is a building nearby that is suitable for wintering shrubs. Water stagnation must not be allowed. The selected location should be on a slope. You should also know the depth of groundwater flow.

The root system of a climbing rose penetrates to a depth of 2 meters, so it is better to plant a shrub on a hill. Or, when planting at the bottom of the pit, lay a slab or stone so that the roots spread horizontally, without reaching wet places.

If you plant roses in order to decorate the walls of a building, then it is better to step back from the building by half a meter- meter, because the bush may not be enough useful substances. Also avoid close proximity to other plants.

It is better to plant bushes in the fall, starting from the end of September, until the beginning of October, so that it has time to take root, go through the adaptation process before the onset of the first frost. Thus, in the spring the shrub will begin to actively develop, it will be full of strength for flowering.

If a rose is planted in the spring, then development will occur with a delay of about half a month, it will require more thorough care.

2. Treatment of seedlings

In order for the plant to be able to quickly strengthen and develop dynamically, it is necessary to properly process the seedlings before planting. If the seedlings are cut off and then fed with fertilizers, they will gain immunity, develop faster, and delight their owners with the lush flowering of fragrant buds.

Stages of preparation:

Soaking seedlings for 24 hours in water.
Trimming shoots, roots.
Sprinkling the cut points with crushed charcoal.
Treatment of the root system with a mixture of fertilizers.

In the process of cutting the shoots, weak stems are removed completely. Full shoots are selectively shortened to 15 centimeters. You should examine the roots of the shrub. Too long or fragmented parts must be removed, and only a small bundle of healthy processes should be left.

To prepare 10 liters of a mixture for feeding the roots, a part of the clay, a tenth of the mullein and a couple of phosphorobacterin tablets are used. The drug "heteroauxin" has also proven itself well. One tablet will suffice.

3. Soil preparation

Loamy soil with a loose structure that absorbs moisture is ideal for climbing roses. The permeability of the soil will exclude the accumulation of precipitation in the zone of the root system, and prevent its decay. The rose will not grow on sandy as well as clay soils, so it is best to dilute them with more suitable soils.

To make the soil more crumbly, just add lime to it. Fertilization with humus, humus, phosphorus-containing substances positively affects the increase in fertility. Land for planting should be dug up regularly: at the end of summer, as well as at the beginning of spring.

4. Planting process

First you need to dig a hole. It should not be small so that the roots of the shrub do not feel the lack of space. The optimal depth is 60 centimeters. Between the bushes, a distance of half a meter - a meter should be adhered to, and the aisles recede by 1-2 meters.

The root neck is added dropwise by 10 centimeters in order to protect against frost. The roots are positioned so that they spread freely, and the spaces between them are carefully covered with soil. It is necessary to bring about 5 kilograms of peat compost into the pit. After the hole is covered, upper layer should be carefully sealed. You can plant the bushes in a checkerboard pattern so that they do not obscure each other.

How to care for a climbing rose

The main thing in proper care is optimal watering, rational pruning, timely top dressing.

Shrubs should be watered infrequently, but plentifully, given the characteristics of a deeply penetrating root system. One bush will require 15 liters of water. During periods of drought, water once a week. If the bush is recently planted, then moisten the soil more often until the roots take root.

Cut the bushes to form a decorative crown, stimulate flowering. In the spring, you need to cut off those stems that did not survive the winter well. autumn pruning depends on the variety of the plant and the frequency of its flowering. If the shrub pleases you with flowering once a year, then you need to leave 5 annual and the same number of two-year-old shoots. If your shrub blooms twice a season, then you need to leave 2-3 annual stems and more flowering ones - about 7.

Please note that the fertilizers applied during planting are sufficient to feed the plant only for the next two years of its life. Next, it is necessary to support the shrub with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, especially during the growing season - up to 5 times.

Another important point is the tying of branches, on which the formation of buds depends. This cannot be done without the right support.

1. Support for roses

Climbing roses will not be able to fully develop if they do not build a suitable support.

The choice of support should be taken with all seriousness, since it must meet the following criteria:

Strength. It must be stable and reliable in order to withstand the weight of heavy branches of roses. The structure must be well dug and strengthened.
Compliance with the interior. The support for the rose should be in harmony with the design of the site and be beautifully designed. After all, a young shrub will not immediately be able to braid it.
Correspondence to the rose variety. Huge supports are not suitable for undersized roses, and arches that are too small will quickly become unsuitable for tall varieties.
Compactness. When choosing a support, consider the length of the branches so that you can form a beautiful, dense bush that does not take up much space.

There are such types of supports:

Mesh trellis. It is a mesh ("chain-link" or rope with large cells), stretched between two supports. Suitable for varieties with graceful, non-massive branches.
Arch. Decorative and very functional support, thanks to its spaciousness. With its help, you can divide the site into zones, decorate passages, paths and entrances to gazebos. They can be wooden or forged, but they look equally elegant and expensive.
Conical supports. This is a design consisting of rods placed in a circle and assembled at the top into a bundle. They will help you create a variety of flower arrangements.

2. Transplant

Mature shrubs require transplantation if the initially chosen place did not fit any criteria. It is better to do this in early autumn, so that the roots have time to adapt before winter. Although it can be transplanted in early spring, immediately after the soil thaws.

But do not delay this process until the kidneys swell. The bush must be dug very carefully with a maximum deepening in order to preserve the roots. Leave only high-quality root processes, and remove the rest with secateurs. When planting a rose in a new hole, straighten the roots so that they do not curl up.

Sprinkle the hole with earth, water it, in a few days you will need to add more earth, because the plant may settle.

3. Diseases and pests

Climbing roses are susceptible to a number of diseases that not only make them worse appearance, but can also lead to the death of the entire shrub:

bacterial cancer. It manifests itself in the form of the formation of large growths on the roots and root neck. They must be carefully removed and the wounds treated with a solution of copper sulphate. If the plant is heavily infected, then it is better to dig it up and burn it to protect other shrubs from infection.
Powdery mildew. This is fungal disease, which is accompanied by the appearance of a gray coating on the leaves and stems. High humidity, temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen contribute to infection. The affected areas should be treated with a solution of soda or sulfur. Infected shoots must be removed b.
Black spotting. It is manifested by the appearance on the leaves of a large number of round brown or black spots with a yellow border. They increase and occupy the entire area of deciduous cover, after which the leaves dry out and fall off. The disease is transmitted by air. Treatment consists in spraying with a solution of vitriol or Bordeaux mixture.

Care after flowering

After flowering, climbing roses need to be pruned properly. Remove damaged, dry branches to thin out heavily overgrown bushes. Then you need to feed the shrubs with fertilizers containing potassium.

Reproduction methods

Climbing beauties can be propagated in three ways. The most common cutting, which guarantees almost 100% results. Cuttings are cut only from high-quality shoots, the presence of several internodes is mandatory. They need to be cut at an angle. The stalk is placed in a box with a sand-earth mixture with a recess of 1 centimeter and covered with a jar.

You can also try propagation by layering. To do this, you need to dig an oblong hole, lay a layer of humus on its bottom, sprinkle it with soil, bend down the shoot. If you cut a little bark under the kidneys, then the roots form much faster. We drop the shoot and attach it, and place its end vertically.

Popular varieties of climbing roses

All climbing roses are divided into two groups - ramblers (with small flowers) and climbers (with large flowers).

Rambler types:

Crimson Shower- a variety with bright red buds, from which saturated sweet fragrance. Pleases with his abundant flowering a very long time.
Bobbie James- the buds of this variety resemble cherry blossoms, they are distinguished by a musky aroma. Bushes reach seven meters in height.
Excelsa- This is the most persistent variety with bright crimson, double flowers. The disadvantage is a very short-term flowering (only a month).

Varieties of climbing roses Climbers:

aloha - climbing rose, which pleases the eye with profusely flowering bushes with apricot buds with burgundy edging.
Graciosa- a variety of climbing roses with exquisite flowers pearl color with a pink tint. Large buds have a persistent aroma.
Jasmina- a variety with strong branches, able to cover large-scale surfaces.

As you can see, climbing roses are very diverse. Everyone can choose for themselves exactly the variety that will most harmoniously merge into the interior of the garden plot.

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