Spud roses. Shelter of standard roses for the winter

For roses to keep abundant flowering, annually in the autumn they need to be pruned. In addition, for thermophilic culture reliable shelter from frost for the winter is important. How to do this - videos and recommendations from experts will help.

Tasks of the grower

A cultivated rose is a delicate and capricious flower. Every gardener has his own algorithm autumn processing, based on own experience contact with these plants. The main stages of preparing a flower garden for winter are about the same.

Pruning is accompanied by other winter preparation activities:

foliage removal;
hilling bushes;
shelter them from the cold.

Pruning strengthens the immunity of the rose

Both young seedlings and adult plants are subject to pruning. Pre-winter procedure strengthens roses:

increases resistance to frost;
provides access sunlight to stems;
ventilates the crown;
encourages the development of new, stronger buds next spring;
stimulates abundant flowering and the appearance of larger flowers.

Attention! Proceed to pruning and other procedures should be only after the complete end of flowering.

Usually the flower garden fades as soon as the first autumn frosts hit at night. Before that, do not remove any fruits or shoots of the plant - this will only provoke the development of new ones, to the detriment of flowering and the health of the bush.

Preparatory procedures before pruning

Pruning and warming begin with the removal of leaves. It is better to do this 5-7 days before the winter preparation of the plant:

collect fallen leaves from the ground;
carefully remove sheet plates from the bottom of the stem;
try not to hurt the stem itself;
stretch the procedure for 2-3 days, removing the leaves gradually. If you pick everything at once, it will become stressful for the plant.

Attention! Fungi and viruses overwinter on the foliage, and under the protective material they tend to rot and mold.

The next step is hilling. Spend it in dry weather:

Hilling bushes

Spray the stems and the near-stem circle for the purpose of disinfection. Use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid or any other antifungal mixture. Leave the plant to dry for a day.
Form an earthen rampart 20-30 cm high at the base of the stems. Instead of soil, you can simply pour the same layer of dry peat or loose compost.
If the end of autumn is expected to be rainy, throw a film around the bushes for this time. You can cover with a plastic cap and the whole plant. This is not frost protection - on the eve of pre-winter insulation, the film should be removed. It is important that the hilly place remains dry until permanent frosts.

Attention! Hilling will protect the coarsened base of the stems from cracking during cold weather. It will also additionally protect the lower kidneys and root. Procedures are performed for all varieties of roses.

Cutting technology

The procedure involves the removal of wilted inflorescences, buds that did not have time to ripen, weak, young and diseased stems. If any of the above remains for the winter, then with high humidity under the covering material, it simply rots. This is fraught with infection and death of the entire plant with the first spring thaws. The fungus can infect the entire flower garden.

After pruning, only 3-5 stiffened stumps from strong and formed shoots should remain from each bush. Each of them retains 1-2 dormant buds. Shoots should be located so that when they grow back they do not thicken the crown. Together with young branches it is undesirable to leave:

Trimming process

3 year olds or older;
from a large number side branches;
covered with dry bark.

Attention! Cut plant parts must not be left on the site or thrown into compost heap. Pathogens live on them, so it is best to burn the material.

Different types of roses have their own pruning features:

Polyanthus. Cut flowers below the ramifications. Remove all unripe, thin branches under the root.
Hybrid tea. Cut to a level of 50 cm above the surface.
floribunda. Blooms even after the first frost. If you cut it at the root, next season the bush will turn out lower and will be abundantly covered with flowers. If you leave more shoots and make the stumps longer, taller and slender bushes will grow in spring, and flowers will be only at the tops.

How to insulate roses for the winter

If the autumn is warm, do not rush to cover the roses, even if it rains. It is important that under the film the flowers do not begin to rot. Wait until average daily temperature drops to 0°C. Some gardeners do not cover the rose garden until stable frosts of -3 ... -7 ° C are established on the street.

Preparing for winter

The best option is protection that will allow the plant to breathe and protect it from moisture. For these tasks, wooden boxes or similar structures are suitable. Their depth is about 60-70 cm.

From above throw waterproof warming material. At the end, it is necessary to provide an opening, which should be periodically opened for ventilation. Under such shelter, roses will not begin to rot and will not suffer from frost.

Attention! Do not use cardboard or paper boxes. This material tends to accumulate moisture in itself. After the first winter thaw, the cardboard will get wet, fold and transfer all the moisture to the plant. By spring you will have a moldy rose. Lutrasil also receives negative reviews because it can get wet when snow melts.

Climbing varieties of roses should first be removed from the supports and laid on the ground with an even lash or ring. Standard flowers must be carefully tilted into the surface and only then insulated. Sometimes you have to slightly dig the root with the ground on the opposite side of the plant. For this type of roses, it is important to protect the crown and stem as best as possible. Snow is often enough for park varieties, in last resort- Light cover.

Alternative wooden boxes- spruce branches, oak leaves. Make a shelter in the form of a hut from these materials. On top of them, you should throw a waterproof dense material or roofing material. Even with a film coating, roses in this case will not rise if you do not forget to ventilate them.

The first thing to do to protect roses is to spud all the bushes until the moment when frosts begin at night and the temperature drops below -3 ° C. If these frosts have already been noted, then hilling roses is prohibited. Otherwise, it will cause the plants to die. In such a situation, it is only allowed to use air-dry shelters to protect spray roses in winter.

Before hilling, it is necessary to remove all leaves from the lower parts of the shoots and spray them with Bordeaux or Burgundy liquid (its 1-2% solution is used).

It is necessary to start hilling in mid-September (in the northwestern part of Russia) with such land in which there are no residues of inorganic origin that have not decomposed. The size of the bushes directly affects the height of earthen mounds. If the roses are undersized, then they are spud up to 10 centimeters in height, if they are tall, then up to 35 centimeters.

In order not to accidentally expose the root system of plants, you can not take the land that is located next to the bushes. You need to bring it from somewhere else. In the spring, after rocking out, this land is used to sprinkle the soil around each bush, and this must be done once a year.

In the event that there is no land of the required quality, there is the option of hilling needles with sawdust, sand or peat. But the results from the use of such materials will be worse. If hilling is carried out early, this will not affect the development of plants and their decorative effect. Their normal vegetative growth and flowering continues.

After the steady cold begins, and the earth freezes up to 6 centimeters deep, the roses are completely covered. Before starting it, the tops of all shoots are cut off with a pruner so that the resulting hemp can be completely covered with insulation material. If the bushes are tall, then they are cut at a height of 25 cm from the level of the soil itself, and for undersized bushes - in accordance with the length that their shoots have.

If pruning is carried out in autumn, then the work of sheltering roses becomes much easier, and this is in contrast to the previously used practice, when the shoots were bent to the ground and pinned. Today, the previously existing opinion that cut roses do not winter well has been completely refuted.

Also, pruning in the fall helps to heal plants if they are affected by fungi, since spores of wintering mushrooms are also removed along with the harvested shoots.

Those leaves that remain after pruning on the shoots must be completely removed and taken out of the rose garden, and then destroyed if they are already affected by diseases. If the shoots of plants are healthy, then they are used in order to propagate plants.

It is necessary to carefully sweep away the snow that has already fallen on the frozen ground, and proceed to the actual shelter of the plants. If the shelter takes place using peat or leaves, then it is necessary to first spread the spruce branches around all the bushes so that the needles “look” outward and prevent all kinds of rodents from penetrating the roses. If plants are insulated with pine needles, such protection with spruce branches is not required, since the sawdust is very prickly, and mice cannot make moves in them.

It is necessary to pour materials for insulation on previously hilled bushes so that there is an elevation in the center, and melt water flows calmly from such a shelter.

The outer border of the shelter should be behind the bushes at a distance of up to 60 centimeters. This is very important when, in a harsh, little snowy winter, it is necessary to protect the roots of roses from freezing.

After the plants are covered, it is necessary to immediately cover the material for insulation with a film. To prevent it from being blown away, be sure to press all the edges with the help of rails and other heavy objects. When laying the film, you must be careful and make sure that not a single stump sticks out above the insulation material. Otherwise, they will pierce the film when it settles under the load of snow that has fallen on it.

If there are such hemp, then they should be cut off or another layer of material for insulation should be placed. The film can be replaced by another material that is moisture resistant - roofing felt, roofing material or otherwise. It is important that the insulation material is completely dry until spring. It is on this that the successful preservation of roses depends.

The thickness of the protection layer depends on how thermally conductive the protection material is, what the weather is like at the beginning of winter, and where the rose garden is located.

If sawdust is used for insulation, then it is necessary to take into account the level of humidity. If sawdust was obtained in the process of sawing wood that was damp, then they contain a lot of water. Their ability to retain heat is half that of those that are completely dry. If a 30-cm layer of sawdust is poured, and it is -30 ° C outside, then a temperature of 1.5 ° C will remain in the upper level of the soil.

If the sawdust is raw, then in order to maintain exactly the same temperature, a layer twice as large is required. If the winter is initially snowy and warm, then in order to protect the roses, you only need to pour 15 centimeters of dry sawdust. If the weather is frosty and there is little snow, then the thickness of the poured layer should be increased to 30 centimeters. If the winter is windy, then exactly the same layer is needed for protection.

If the roses are covered with sawdust and film, then they should overwinter well. Under them, a stable temperature of the soil is maintained throughout the winter, and in the spring it rises extremely slowly, when the air and the earth are already actively warmed up by the sun. This helps the roses stay dormant until the night frost has passed.

It is advisable to use dry and fibrous peat for shelter. It must be prepared in advance and dried well. All this is done in the summer. In no case should you use raw or, especially, wet peat. It is very important that the shelter is protected from water. The thickness of the layer depends on the weather and where the rose garden is located.

It is very easy and affordable to use leaves to protect roses in winter. If applied correctly, they will protect the bushes very well from possible cooling. Any leaves are used for covering, but oak leaves are best. Harvesting occurs when it is warm and sunny. Before direct use, you need to store them in heaps that are reliably protected from rain.

In no case should you cover with wet leaves. They will settle under their own weight and compress so that they will not let air through. The layer of leaves should be 30 centimeters, if the beginning of winter is snowy, and if there is no snow, but severe frosts are noted, then up to 50 centimeters. A layer of such a large thickness is needed due to the strong subsidence of the leaves and the partial loss of their ability to retain heat.

A very responsible job is to remove all shelters from roses in the spring. If roses are hilled, then they winter well, provided that frost holes are formed above the level at which hilling was carried out. But very often in autumn the wind sways the shoots, and holes in the form of funnels appear in the mounds, which are not always visible. In this case, frost holes may well appear below, and the safety of the bushes will be under serious threat.

When warm days come (April, end of March), it is necessary to remove snow from all shelters. Next, you should remove the film, then, when it completely thaws at the edges, it should not be under the sun for a long time. If you remove it in time, it will last a very long time. It is very important that the water vapors that are formed during the heating of the shelter freely go outside.

After the mounds have thawed, you need to immediately unpack the bushes so that if there are frost holes, all the ice can thaw and all damaged tissues dry out. To do this, the bushes are opened so that air can pass freely, and they are closed with insulation material only when there is a possibility that the temperature may drop to -5 ° C.

If there are no freezer shoots from below, then the bushes should be left a little hilled - the earth will not harm the plants.

At the very end of April, it is necessary to unwind all the roses, and remove all materials for insulation from the rose garden, leaving only a small amount of them. This period can be characterized by slight frosts at night. New shoots are very sensitive to negative temperatures. All it takes is a slight frost to kill them. That is why, if there is a possibility of matinees, you need to protect the bushes with materials specially designed for this. Completely the material for insulation is removed only in mid-May.

Peat and sawdust can be used several times. They should be stored in a place that is protected from rain, and specially dried if they become damp during the winter. But, if the roses were affected by the fungus, then the materials cannot be reused.

Winter roses. One of the very important measures for care roses - protection plants from frost. How to prepare and cover roses for the winter.

Preparing roses for shelter

Preparations need to start well in advance. As early as August, cut flowers should be stopped, which will contribute to the ripening of the shoots, and, consequently, a better wintering. Do not remove the formed ovaries. At the same time, it is recommended to limit watering and loosening to a minimum, but weeding is mandatory.

! Hilling the bushes is a must!

Plants that are well developed, properly fed (growing in good humus soil containing potassium and phosphorus), not weakened by diseases and pests, endure winter much easier.

Roses with immature shoots that continue to develop until the very arrival of frost are in particular danger in winter and often freeze out. Therefore, everything that interferes with the maturation of wood and encourages the plant to continue growing should be avoided. late autumn.

This means that you should not fertilize in the shade or directly under the crowns of trees, fertilize at a later date, oversaturate the soil with nitrogen, leave roses without watering (in the event of a dry summer!), Hill them up at the end of summer and autumn and cut them off at this time (in September and October) flowers on long stems.

! Dry and very hot summers are dangerous for roses. Even in dry soil sheltered roses die from frost. Roses especially need shelter for the winter if they were planted in the fall and were not well established in the ground..

The first light frosts do not harm the roses, on the contrary, they contribute to the salting of the shoots. Before the onset of significant frosts, spud the bushes to a height of 10-25 cm with dry earth mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. This protects the base of the bush, where the dormant buds are located, from freezing. The earth for hilling cannot be raked between the bushes, otherwise the roots of the roses will be close to the surface.

! It is impossible to spud with peat and sawdust, as they are highly saturated with moisture and freeze through in winter.

Proper pruning of roses

In autumn, roses are pruned to create better wintering conditions, just before shelter.

In October, all leaves should be cut, weak, thin or diseased shoots should be cut to the base, and all healthy strong shoots should be cut to a height of 40-60 cm (no more).

It is also necessary to remove the wen. As a rule, they have a reddish tint. Do not be sorry, cut them at the base, as they not only do not overwinter themselves, but can also cause the death of the entire plant. Apical buds sprout on mature shoots of roses until frost and young shoots grow. Therefore, in autumn:

hybrid tea roses cut in half;
polyanthus, floribunda, ground cover, miniature, park - by one third;
Leaves to stipules should also be removed. Cropped bushes are tied with twine.
At climbing roses cut off only unripened tops and wen. If there are more than 10 stems, then cut out all the weakest and oldest shoots (older three years). Before the onset of persistent frosts, while the shoots remain elastic, the stems of roses are removed from the support, tied with synthetic twine and laid on the soil covered with spruce branches, pressed from above with shields, boards, boxes. Adult plants with powerful thick stems are recommended to be dug up for laying so that when the stems are bent, their bark does not burst. Standard roses are also bent down for shelter, fixing the trunk with stakes, staples or horns.

Shelter of spray roses

After the onset of not great frosts, when the soil begins to freeze, the roses should be covered. It is best when the temperature drops to (-6 ... -8 ° C) and upper layer the soil will freeze a few centimeters. Previously, roses and the ground under them are treated with 3-5 percent iron vitriol or .

Several ways to shelter roses in winter

Methods are air-dry and insulation using organic "insulation material".

More often, to cover roses, soddy soil, compost, humus are used as a “warming material”, all these substrates can be mixed with sawdust or peat.

The warming material listed above can be safely brought in advance on a trolley to each bush and left in piles until the first days of November.

! Wood sawdust and peat by themselves cannot be used. These materials absorb and retain moisture well, which will lead to freezing in winter, and also reduce air exchange under cover.

It is very difficult to keep insulation materials dry after shelter, because thaws and rains are possible in November. Therefore, it is advisable to cover the “insulation” from above plastic wrap. Under shelter, plants die not only from frost, but also from dampening, soaking and drying. Therefore, one must be very careful and watch the roses during the winter.

! All insulation materials must be dry (especially sawdust and peat). Otherwise, they freeze and form an air-tight coating. As a result, roses can die from lack of oxygen.

The first way to protect roses

On the damp areas condensation accumulates under the air cover, which leads to the decay of roses. In this case, the bushes are covered with spruce branches and poured on top. thick layer"insulating material".

The second way to protect roses

As soon as frosts begin (-3 ... -5 ° С), the “warming material” should be immediately thrown with a shovel to the roses, as if spudding the bush to a height of 35-40 cm and compacted with hands, covered with spruce branches on top, or wrapped in several layers with old covering material.

! The use of spruce branches to cover roses is especially recommended: it has bactericidal properties and repels mice.

The third way to hide roses

They use spruce branches, which need to cover the bushes to a height of 20-30 cm, and put a film on top and pour a small layer of peat or earth on it.

The fourth way to protect roses

Reliable air-dry way to shelter roses. Along the ridges or ridges, wooden stops or boxes 30-40 cm high are installed, shields (“house”) or boards are placed on top of them closely.

Before heavy autumn snowfalls, the boards are covered with a layer of roofing felt or roofing material so that the soil remains dry. From the ends of the ridge, they are first left open, and with the onset of stable frosts, they are covered with boards or roofing paper.

The fifth way to shelter roses

Other air dry shelter, when wooden or metal frames are installed above the previously hilled bushes, on which the covering material is pulled, and then covered with plastic wrap on top.

Plants are covered in advance, in October, starting to hill the soil to a height of 10-15 cm. After that, they are additionally hilled already in mid-November to a height of 30-40 cm.

In winter, such shelters are additionally covered with snow. This method gives the best results of wintering roses during a harsh winter. It provides protection not only from low temperatures, but also from high humidity, since the greatest losses of roses occur from wetting and rotting of the shoots. It is only necessary to remember that before the onset of stable night temperatures (-7 ... -8 ° С), the ends of the shelter must be open. Otherwise, in the warmth of the roses will rot and mold. With a more significant cooling, the vents are closed, but not tightly.

The sixth way to shelter roses

IN mild winters such shelter is unnecessary. Lighter is enough. simple and reliable way shelters. Without waiting for the onset of a steady cold snap, around the end of October-beginning of November, in clear weather, prepared rose bushes are covered with a double layer of dense covering material (lutrasil) or spruce branches are used, which protects roses from both cold and wind, and from the destructive sun at this time and temperature difference. Weak and young bushes are additionally better to cover with boxes from above.

Shelter of roses in tubs

Recently, many gardeners have been growing roses in tubs, and standard roses are also grown. The big problem is to save these plants in winter.

If it is not possible to keep tub roses during the winter in a cool, bright room, they can be prepared for overwintering in the garden. It is obligatory to bury a tub with a rose, otherwise the soil in it will freeze through and the roses will die. You should dig a hole the size of the tub in which the rose grows; place the tub in a hole flush with the soil surface, carefully cover the shoots of the rose with spruce branches or insulate otherwise, for example, spud, falling asleep on top of the earth.

Shelter of standard roses

Preparing standard roses for winter requires special efforts. Standard roses, formed by a tree whose trunk has already lost its flexibility, cannot be bent to the ground.

The shoots of standard roses after pruning are insulated with covering material, this is very convenient. A tight bag is pulled on top, tied with a rope and the neck of the bag is fixed on the trunk. Then spud earth as high as possible. From above, you can sketch spruce branches and cover everything with leaves

! Particular care should be taken to insulate the vaccination site.

Shelter of climbing roses

Curly climbing roses can be insulated with thick fabric, for example, burlap or covering material, without removing the lashes from the support.

In regions with relatively mild winters, climbing and semi-climbing roses are covered with spruce branches directly on the support, fixing the spruce branches on the stems and support with a cord.

Currently, many varieties of climbing roses are not even insulated for the winter, they are very resistant to frost, but spud up to 20-25 cm root system is a must.

Spring removal of shelters

In the spring, during the onset of stable warm weather (April 15-25), the roses are freed from the warming layer, cut off, covered with dry leaves, paper or covering material. This prevents the plants from drying out too much and sunburn helps to adapt to new conditions. When sprouts appear, the shelter is removed. It is better to carry out this work in cloudy weather.

Spring removal of shelters is a very crucial moment. Well-covered roses in the fall in the spring may die from improperly removed shelter.

Already in March, grooves for melt water should be made near the roses.
When the snow melts, remove the film that served as a shelter and carefully loosen the top layer of the insulation material.
After a while, the dried part of the insulating material should be removed and loosened again.
With the establishment of warm days in the 2nd half of April, the shelter should be removed completely. This is best done on a cloudy day or in the evening.
Then it is necessary to clear the site of debris, and again cover the shoots with roofing paper, film, from wind and sunlight.
By the end April - early May, you can remove the shading and immediately start pruning. First of all, it is necessary to remove all the frozen, blackened ends of the shoots and cut off the shoots that died from frost or wetting to the base. Then proceed to the formation of the bush.
With strong pruning, almost the entire shoot must be removed, except for 2-3 lower well-developed buds;
With an average pruning on the shoot, 4-6 lower buds should be left;
With a weak one, remove only a small part of the shoot and leave 8-10 or more buds.
Hybrid tea roses of the floribunda group are distinguished by the precocity of shoots, but their spring pruning must be differentiated: 1-2 shoots should be cut long, i.e. leave up to 8 buds, and 1 cut short, by 2-3 buds. Then the first ones will give abundant flowering, and from the lower bud of a short shoot a new powerful replacement shoot will develop - the basis of next year's flowering.
Polyanthus roses should be cut short, i.e. into 2-3 well-developed buds. Then, during the summer, several strong shoots develop from the lower buds, which will bloom from mid-summer to late autumn. The shorter last year's shoots are cut off in spring, the more replacement shoots develop, the more magnificent flowering.

Fine( 3 ) Badly( 0 )

Most gardeners lovingly and skillfully care for the queen rose. However, not always and not everywhere the natural and climatic conditions are favorable for the cultivation of this wonderful flower. The arrival of winter is of particular concern to beginner gardeners. About which roses are recommended to cover for the winter, features of shelter different varieties and varieties, the optimal timing, the subtleties of preparing roses for shelter, as well as the most rational ways, will be covered in our article.

When to cover roses for the winter

name certain deadlines when you can cover roses for the winter is very difficult, because it primarily depends on the weather conditions of your region and its climatic features.

It is necessary to cover roses for the winter only when the stable ones come. sub-zero temperatures, and these should not be single frosts, but it is desirable that the weather “settles”, in other words, it is best to do this already on frozen ground. As for a certain temperature, at night (and it is better to take even the average daily temperature), it should stabilize at around -5 ..-7 degrees. Thus, you need to keep an eye on the weather forecast all the time.

Note! If, along with a decrease in temperature, snow also fell, then you can cover directly in the snow.

But the approximate terms of shelter in the regions can still be called. Yes, in middle lane(Moscow region) roses cover around the end of October - the first half of November, as well as in Leningrad region, and in the Volga region. IN northern regions(in the Urals and Siberia) - at the end of September-October (sometimes even November). In the South of Russia - in the very late autumn, that is, not earlier than November.

Important! Roses should not be covered too early. Plants will simply suffer under cover if it is warm and it rains.

Video: when to cover roses for the winter

What roses need to be covered for the winter

park roses , as a rule, very rarely shelter for the winter, tk. they possess high enough winter hardiness.

Park

And here floribunda, bush, ground cover, hybrid tea, climbing and standard roses cover necessarily. Moreover, the latter are quite difficult to hide.

Important! Hybrid tea roses do not have good winter hardiness, and often in the spring they have to be cut “to zero”, but if okuchka was sufficient, then the chance to find living branches under it is quite high.

Hybrid Tea

Video: shelter hybrid tea roses

The specifics of the shelter of climbing roses

Obviously, it is difficult enough to cover climbing roses. because of their great height.

The technique of sheltering climbing roses is as follows:

Advice! Before laying the roses, you can tie them with twine (twine) to make a long sheaf (bundle) and the branches do not stick out in different directions. After that, already under its own weight, a sheaf (bundle) of roses easily leans to the ground.

Video: shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Features of the shelter of standard roses

It is not so easy to cover standard roses.

The specificity of the shelter of this variety is as follows: you dig your rose from one side and carefully lay it down, pressing it with arcs. You fall asleep (spud) the base with earth or sand, and then everything is as usual - spruce branches (or other branches) and spunbond (or other covering material). At the same time, do not forget to wrap the stem itself.

By the way! Some especially scrupulous flower growers, in addition to wrapping the whole rose with covering material, also put a frame on top, which is also covered.

Video: how to cover a standard rose for the winter

But it is best not to bend the bushes (especially adults, but very young ones are quite possible), but simply install a frame around it, or directly wrap it with covering material, including a bole.

Preparing roses for shelter for the winter

Before covering roses, it is necessary to carry out the following measures to prepare the "Queen of Flowers" for winter:

Feed with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Spend autumn pruning - cut the stems to the height of the shelter (so that they fit under it), that is, leave about 40-50 cm, and also cut off all the leaves (if possible).

Slices cover up garden pitch or even better pasta "RanNet".
Pick up all the trash accumulated during the warm season (after pruning and breaking the leaves), as it is a source of infections.
Treat for diseases and pests. For example, you can sprinkle copper-containing preparations (blue vitriol or Bordeaux mixture), especially if there were black spots on the leaves. Or specialized fungicides: Skor, Topaz, Hom, Oksikh. and etc.

Important! If you cover roses with leaves, or the plant was sick, then treatment is required.

Attention! The need for hilling is quite controversial, because everyone different land, climate (weather). For example, some flower growers believe that an okuchka in the middle lane (Moscow region) is a boon for roses, because they fade much more often than they freeze out.

But, in general, hilling can be harmful, since it is with it that roses often simmer.

Advice! If the weather is still uncertain - then rains, then thaws, it is better to put arcs, throw a spunbond on top, and leave vents on the sides. As soon as the cold sets in, the vents should be closed.

shelter.

Important! Shoots must be bent very carefully so as not to break at sub-zero temperatures.

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and step-by-step guides

Advice! It is much more convenient and practical to cover many roses at once, and not one at a time. Therefore, it is recommended to grow them in rose gardens.

Covering with earth or hilling

The most "ancient" way to cover roses is to sprinkle with earth.

However, its significant disadvantage is that during the thaw (for example, even in late autumn), roses under a layer of earth simmer.

But if there are no such thaws in your region, then you can try.

At first, you just lightly sprinkle the base of the bush with earth, and already with the onset of stable frosts, you fall asleep and the bush itself (but preferably with dry earth), making a mound about 30 cm high.

Advice! If you live in a private house and decide to cover the roses with earth, then, if possible, add more snow when you clear the paths. So your favorite flowers will definitely not freeze.

Without arcs (air-dry)

To create a frame and provide air under the shelter, it is optimal to use spruce branches. Moreover, they can even be covered again, that is, it is not necessary to always use fresh branches, last year's semi-dry ones will do.

Important! Optional and no need to cut branches spruce branches right from the trees, you can pick up broken branches that are lying on the ground, for example, after a strong wind.

If it is not possible to collect spruce branches in the forest, then instead of it you can use branches from pruning shrubs(only not sick), but also better branches from the forest - again broken from birch or cut elderberry branches.

Please note! Hay will not work, because. it dies and under it mice start up. As well as sawdust, because they get wet during thaws, and when frost hits, they freeze and spoil root collar, it turns black - sizzles in an icy cocoon.

Step-by-step instruction rose shelters for the winter without arcs (on branches):

On arcs (air-dry)

Step-by-step instructions for sheltering a rose for the winter on arcs (air-dry method):

Video: how to cover roses for the winter (air-dry methods)

How to cover roses for the winter: methods and best covering materials

Interesting! Covering material is necessary to protect against the icy wind in the pre-winter season and from sunburn in the spring.

Its installation on the frame (arcs or branches) acts as a canopy so that the roses are not crushed by snow, and there is still air under it.

At all, The best covering material for roses is snow. If you have a lot of snow, then the wintering will be excellent.

Film cover

A lot of people use film for shelter. However, you can cover roses with foil only if you have the opportunity to come to the dacha until winter, as well as in the very early spring (or you live in a private house) to open the shelter and ventilate the roses during the onset of thaws. Otherwise, there is a very high probability that the plants under the film will simply warm up. In addition, the frozen film is very difficult to remove in the spring (it can be torn).

By the way! If you are a resident in the rainy region then over spunbond it is recommended to cover the roses with a film on the arcs, but it is important not to close the ends (leave vents). Or you can make a film tunnel shelter on arcs.

Note! In all other cases, it is impossible to cover a rose with a film, it does not breathe!

Shelter with non-woven material (spunbond, agrofibre, lutrasil, burlap, geotextile)

The advantage of covering with non-woven material is the fact that despite the fact that, for example, spunbond allows moisture to pass through, under such a cover it still practically does not accumulate, most of it rolls off. Thus, under the agrofibre, the most optimal mode humidity and air.

If you have found a 30, 40 micron spunbond, then it is better to lay it in 2-3 layers. If you have 60 microns, then you can use 1 layer, but it’s better to use 2 (moisture will definitely not seep into 2 layers).

Advice! You only need to use light (white) spunbond. Black - heats up much more during a thaw. Inside, the earth will begin to thaw earlier, there will be more moisture. Black spunbond is usually used in beds (strawberry) or flower beds so that weeds do not grow.

Video: sheltering roses for the winter with spruce branches and spunbond

Bags of sugar

It is quite budgetary to cover roses with polypropylene sugar bags, they practically do not let moisture through and breathe well (thanks to weaving structure).

Advice! It is quite convenient to put bags on a frame made of a cardboard box.

Shelter with cardboard

Cardboard is a very good covering material that protects from the wind (this is immediately a frame), but, unfortunately, it gets wet, so it is necessary to lay another layer on top of it, for example, the same spunbond (in 2 layers) or film.

And some, like the gardener from the next video, first wrap the roses in spunbond, then cover with cardboard, 2 more layers of spunbond on top and the final layer of film (but only on top, not on the sides, so that the shelter breathes).

Video: how to cover roses for the winter - a method with cardboard, spunbond and film

Output! Thus, when choosing a covering material, the following rules should be followed.

Between shelter and rose shoots should be space - air space, it will protect the flowers from the cold.

Cover must be breathable, i.e. covering material it should be breathable so that there is no high humidity inside.

Important! Plastic basins and buckets are not suitable for shelter.

Video: how and with what to cover roses - tips on how to properly cover a rose garden

Features of sheltering roses in different regions

Depending on the climatic features of the growing region of the “Queen of Flowers”, there are some small nuances for sheltering roses for the winter.

In the south of Russia

If you live in a warm southern region, then for the winter it is enough to spud roses, for example, by covering the base (neck) with dry sawdust or simply earth. After all, in general, even if the shoots freeze, then new ones will grow from the neck.

In the middle lane (Moscow region), in the Urals and in Siberia, everything is different.

In the middle lane (Moscow region)

The middle lane is a zone of risky farming, and there are both snowy and completely snowless winters. Therefore, the best shelter for roses in the middle lane (Moscow region) is air-dry. In other words, there must be air under the shelter, and it must be protected from precipitation.

In the Urals and Siberia

In principle, the shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia is similar to the shelter in the middle lane, but amateur flower growers advise to do without hilling, using spruce branches (quite controversial), but simply to make an air-dry shelter on arcs, pulling, for example, geotextiles from above in 1 layer (density 150).

Video: shelter of roses in the Urals and Siberia

How to save roses in winter in very cold northern regions

Very often, gardeners are completely unable to grow roses in the frosty northern regions (for example, in Tyumen), where in winter it can be up to -50 and below.

With such climatic conditions better plant roses in a pot And for the winter to lower into the cellar or basement.

For normal storage in the cellar all winter must be maintained very low temperature- no higher than + 4-5 degrees, optimally around 0. At a higher temperature, roses will begin to grow and stretch from a lack of light.

winter care for roses in pots in the cellar the following: first of all, it is necessary to ensure that the earthen ball does not dry out “to death”, which means that it should be periodically watered in a dry way, putting snow in the pot.

In the spring, gradually begin to bring out into the light, especially if the plants begin to grow. And when the temperature starts to stay in the positive range (in April-May), then you can already take it out into the garden.

So that even for beginner gardeners, flowers of tenderness and beauty endure the winter without problems and delight in the spring with a magical riot of colors, it is necessary to avoid mistakes in their shelter for the winter. And for this it is very important to take into account the features various kinds and varieties of roses, the optimal timing of shelter, as well as natural and climatic conditions in different regions and the most suitable ways protection against thaws and frosts.

Video: how to cover roses for the winter

Important! If you you do not want to under the shelter of a rose gnawed by mice, then it is necessary to put special sent decoys or alternatively, rags soaked in birch tar(small pieces).

In contact with

home > Maths