Separate waste collection has been practiced in our family for more than one generation: all organic materials that can rot and serve for the benefit of the garden are stacked separately and then transferred to the compost heap.

Free and highly nutritious fertilizer is prepared for about 3 years, but there are ways to speed up this process, allowing you to reduce the ripening period to one year.

Proper compost, which will not harm plants and soil due to its high nitrogen content, is ready only 3 years after the final laying with a bunch of organic matter. Experienced gardeners organize boxes on their plots, divided into three sections, which alternately each season serve to accumulate "raw materials" for fertilizer.

Ready-made compost of the correct black color is stored in one compartment, fermentation processes take place in the other, and fresh weeds and organic waste are laid in the third.

The processes of fermentation of raw materials take place due to the activity of special microorganisms that decompose organic matter into simple elements. For the qualitative work of these bacteria, three main conditions must be met:

1. Moisture. Without moisture, no fermentation will occur, so the compost heap must be constantly spilled with water.
2. Air. Aerobic and anaerobic bacteria work on the decomposition of organic matter, the former do it faster. To speed up the compost maturation process, it is necessary to regularly dig up the heap, providing beneficial microorganisms with oxygen that is important for them.
3. Warm. Fermented raw materials must be kept warm. Previously, we covered the pile with a thick black film that kept moisture inside and, by absorbing the sun's rays, served as additional heating. Now we have comfortable boxes assembled from boards in our country house: the rotting masses themselves emit heat.

To prepare really useful compost, it is not enough just to stack organic waste in layers - you need to create comfortable conditions for microorganisms and regularly check the condition of future compost.

Particular attention is required to control the nitrogen content in the decaying masses: its excess, expressed in an unpleasant odor, will signal the imminent death of bacteria due to oxygen deficiency. To eliminate the surplus of nitrogen, you need to dig up the pile with a pitchfork and add a little straw to the mass.

"Manual" method

If you do not have the opportunity to wait 3 years for the compost, the process of its maturation can be accelerated, but this will require constant intervention in the fermentation processes:

• try to grind all organic garden and household waste so that they rot faster;
• constantly water the compost heap, keeping it moist throughout the warm season;
• add fresh chopped weeds to the ripening compost as a "sourdough";
• at least once a month, dig up a pile with a pitchfork or pierce it to the bottom with a stick, providing an influx of oxygen.

By taking part in the maturation of compost, you will thereby speed up the time for its readiness: it will be possible to use it not after 3 years, but after 2. Using this technique will help you save time and free space on the site that you have allocated for the collection and fermentation of organic waste .

Preparations

To speed up the process of making compost, gardeners have long practiced the use of microorganisms by watering the masses with diluted yeast and fermented milk drinks. But today there are a lot of ready-made products on the market that contain selected strains of bacteria that serve to break down organic matter into simple elements:

• lactic acid bacteria;
• yeast;
• actinomycetes;
• photosynthetic bacteria;
• fermenting mycobacteria.

Such a powerful complex of bacteria in favorable conditions begins to multiply rapidly and process organic matter. The work of microorganisms contributes to the elimination of pathogenic flora and helps to break down raw materials into microelements useful for cultivated plants.

The preparations should be diluted according to the instructions in warm water, and then insisted for a day. Experienced gardeners recommend adding sugar or jam to the solution to feed beneficial bacteria. Then the diluted preparation should shed the compost heap and subsequently maintain the optimal moisture content of the decaying mass.

The use of preparations with microorganisms allows you to reduce the compost preparation time to 3-4 months, that is, the organic matter that you collect during the summer will become a full-fledged fertilizer next year with the right approach.

Aerobic method

This method, based on the use of preparations, allows you to speed up the readiness of compost as much as possible:

1. In a shady place on the site, assemble the box, leaving small gaps of 3-4 cm between the boards.
2. Lay drainage at the bottom of the box: broken brick, stones, wood chips or sunflower stalks.
3. Pawn organic raw materials as you collect. When the fresh layer reaches a thickness of 20 cm, spill it with a solution of the drug.
4. Cover the compost heap with dark cling film or a wooden lid. As organic waste accumulates, a new layer should be well shed with a compost diluted according to the instructions and then maintain the optimum moisture content of the masses.

To ensure the flow of oxygen to aerobic bacteria, after each watering, it is recommended to pierce the decaying masses in several places to the very bottom. If the fermentation is accompanied by an unpleasant odor, the pile must be dug up with a pitchfork.

anaerobic method

This method of composting allows you to produce valuable fertilizer in 5 months. The principle of creation is the layer-by-layer laying out of organic waste and earth. Fermentation processes take place under anaerobic conditions - under a film or in a wooden box assembled without gaps.

The composting accelerator is applied once a month, and the rotting masses are constantly kept moist.

The aerobic method, although it takes more time (under the conditions of the middle lane, the ripening process will take not 5 months, but will affect half of the next summer), and also gives silo-like masses that are not very convenient to work with, but it allows you to get the most nutritious and useful fertilizer for plants which will undoubtedly please the crops in your garden.

You will learn more about methods for accelerating the maturation of compost from the following video:

Outcome

The composting process can be significantly reduced if you follow certain rules for working with organic matter:

• grind organic waste and weeds;
• ensure optimal moisture content of the decaying masses;
• dig up future compost every month or pierce layered organic matter with a stick to ensure oxygen flow;
• keep warm in the rotting compost by covering the wooden box with a lid or thick film;
• use special preparations containing a complex of beneficial bacteria to accelerate the maturation of compost.

By following these recommendations, you can reduce the compost maturation time to 2 years, and using solutions saturated with microorganisms - up to 3 months. This will allow you to save usable space on your site and use the prepared natural fertilizer for the next year.

Compost preparation. Anaerobic and aerobic types of decomposition. The ratio of carbon and nitrogen. How to properly lay a compost heap.

Compost is a fertilizer obtained as a result of the microbial decomposition of organic matter.

Compost is used by almost all gardeners, regardless of what agricultural practices they adhere to, whether they dig the soil, or just loosen it, use mineral fertilizers, or do without them.

In almost any garden, and kitchen garden, there is a pile, or pit, for recycling waste from the kitchen and garden debris. Someone for composting builds all kinds of boxes, barriers, using metal mesh, boards, slate - any material that encloses a place adapted for composting organic waste.

The resulting compost has a loose, breathable structure and is enriched with all the nutrients needed by plants. In fact, compost in the garden is very good!

And almost every gardener considers himself an expert in this matter, but some simply do not think that compost can be prepared in various ways: “What's so difficult? He threw in a bunch of weeds, herbs, dumped kitchen waste in the same place, watered it, and wait until it all rots!”

In general, right. But I would like to understand a little more about the biological processes that occur during the decomposition of organic matter, so that composting in the garden does not take place spontaneously, but according to a planned scenario.

Anaerobic

It is also called "cold", proceeds at temperatures of 15 - 35 ° C, with the participation of anaerobic microorganisms that receive energy in the absence of oxygen.

The compost heap with such composting is rammed, covered with a film, or laid in pits. But, it is better to refuse such a composting method. Why?

A significant disadvantage of this method is the slow decomposition of organic matter, and the process of decay itself, with a lack of oxygen, can become harmful to plants, provoking the development of fungi, including pathogenic ones.

In anaerobic fermentation, the carbon present in the fermenting materials is not converted into carbon dioxide, as in aerobic fermentation, but into methane. Hence the bad smell. In nature, this process occurs at the bottom of swamps, and in compost heaps it can occur at high compost moisture.

Aerobic

Faster, proceeds at higher temperatures, without an unpleasant smell. Most gardeners prefer aerobic composting, that is, with air access.

Although it must be admitted that in the compost heap, both aerobic and anaerobic processes occur simultaneously. If there is more oxygen (air) in the upper layers of the compost heap, then, accordingly, aerobic composting will prevail there.

Aerobic fermentation occurs in nature on a large scale and is the dominant way in which waste from fields and forests is converted into humus useful for soils and their inhabitants.
Therefore, gardeners most often seek to use this particular method, systematically mixing (shifting) decaying organic matter in a pile to provide it with air.

It happens that the compost mass sometimes heats up to 70 ° C, as it were, “burns out”. Rejoice at such temperatures, or not?

There is an opinion that hot composting leads to the destruction of pathogenic organisms, as well as to the fact that weed seeds that fall into the compost heap lose their germination.

As experiments have shown, seeds that have undergone heat treatment in a compost heap still partially germinate, so when laying grass for composting, you should avoid collecting weeds after they bloom.

Learn more about the composting process

At the first stage, all microbes present take part in the processing of waste. At the same time, there is an intensive process of oxidation, that is, interaction with oxygen, during which heat is released.
The most striking and fastest example of oxidation as a chemical process is combustion. As for the decomposition of organics, this oxidation is slow, and heat (energy) is released slowly during this process.

But what happens to microorganisms at this time? They will die from the high temperature.? The fact is that there are a number of so-called thermophilic bacteria that develop at high temperatures (above 50, up to 90 ° C, depending on the species).

The cell membrane of thermophiles is temperature resistant. This is due to its structure and chemical composition. It is these bacteria that continue their work, it is they who heat the compost heap to a critical temperature at which other microorganisms cease their activity.

Some microorganisms die, and some pass into an inactive form (cysts) in order to survive as a species. Cyst (from the Greek kystis - bubble), a temporary form of existence of many unicellular plants and animals. It has a protective sheath, also called a cyst.

Some protozoa can exist in unfavorable conditions in the form of a cyst for several years.
Later, the activity of thermophiles will decrease, as will the temperature in the compost heap itself. Bacteria dormant in cysts will come to life and continue their work. With favorable temperature and humidity indicators, new microorganisms will colonize the compost and continue the process of decomposition of the compost heap components.
From the above, it follows that high temperatures, indeed, can partially destroy certain types of microorganisms - both harmful and beneficial.

But, pathogenic microbes tolerate adverse conditions better, so the assertion that hot composting disinfects compost is not entirely legitimate.
Many experienced gardeners keep their compost heaps small and low so they don't heat up as much. Such heaps are quickly populated by worms, which in turn leads to more valuable and nutritious compost.
When laying organic matter for composting, it is worth considering one more circumstance.

Organics is nothing more than a combination of various chemical elements with carbon.

In addition to carbon, nitrogen plays an important role in nature - an important building material for amino acids, proteins, nucleic acids and other compounds.
And the organic materials that we use for composting contain both carbon and nitrogen and are characterized by the ratio of these chemical elements.
So, for example, in sawdust, the approximate ratio of carbon to nitrogen: C / N \u003d 500/1
in straw С/N =100/1
in foliage С/N =50/1;
in lawn grass С/N =15/1
in vegetable waste С/N =13/1
manure compost С/N=10/1
This means that the compost obtained as a result of the decomposition of grass will be more saturated with nitrogen than the compost obtained with a predominance of sawdust.

Therefore, when laying a compost heap, one should alternate or mix nitrogenous components with carbonaceous components.

That is, it’s good to mix sawdust with manure, and shift vegetable waste with dry foliage, etc. Tree branches should definitely be chopped, grass should be chopped, if possible.

The smaller the components, the faster the decomposition process will proceed.

What is usually put in the compost heap?

Waste from the kitchen: vegetable peelings, egg shells, offal and fish bones. And also, shavings, sawdust, paper, weeds, grass cut from lawns, leaves collected from under trees, straw, brushwood.

It is advisable to sprinkle the layers of components with wood ash, then the compost will be more nutritious.
Through a layer of 25-35 centimeters add a little earth "for sourdough".
It is desirable to shed each layer with an EM preparation, this will significantly speed up the composting process. After 5 - 10 days, the pile, if possible, is mixed, and when it dries, it is moistened.
If EM preparations are not available to the gardener, to speed up composting, you need to lay some ready-made compost saturated with microorganisms. If there is no such possibility, you should use sourdough, from grass, manure, land from the garden. Well, you can not add anything, using the rule “And so it will do!”, But then the mature compost will be obtained at a later date.

Composting allows you to get valuable organic fertilizer and dispose of waste that becomes harmless to the environment.

“Fast composting. Compost in one season is made by larvae "-

The natural process of processing organics is accelerated with the help of destructor preparations. They are prepared on the basis of spores of various kinds of effective microorganisms (EM preparations).

Briefly about organic destructors

The preparations are diluted in dechlorinated water - rain, spring or tap water, but settled for 2 days, with a temperature of + 25 ... + 32 ˚ C. Otherwise, "good" bacteria will not multiply. Biological products have a different degree of concentration, which affects the amount of the resulting working solution. Liquid preparations are available in plastic containers. To remove excess air, the bottle is squeezed, while the contents rise to the neck, displacing the air; screw on the lid.

Excess air from a plastic bottle is easy to squeeze out; without it, the biological product is well stored.

Without access to oxygen, bacteria do not lose viability throughout the entire storage period.

There is a certain sequence of charging the heap with the maturation accelerator:

• As the heap forms, each layer of organic matter 15–20 cm thick is shed with the preparation (if it is a powder, then it is poured with water).

  Processing of organics with a biological product is carried out in layers

• Sprinkle with a layer of earth about 5 cm thick or crush with grass.

  From drying out, each treated organic layer is covered with grass or earth.

• The pile is covered with agrofiber, a film from drying out, because the bacteria "work" only in a humid environment.

  The compost bin is covered with a film, regardless of the degree of filling

The finished pile looks like a layer cake.

Schematically, a compost heap, fertilized in layers, looks like a cake

Liquid preparations

Shake the vial before use. If the contents are poured out completely, the bottle is rinsed with water and the residue is poured into a working solution, which is usually prepared in the proportion of 100 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water.

• Embiko - per 1 m 3 of organic matter.

  Embiko has a pleasant kefir-silage smell.

• Ekomik Harvest - consumption: 5 liters per 1 m 2 for each layer of compost; matures 2-4 months.
• Ekomik Harvest concentrate - the kit includes a bottle with a concentrate, a nutrient medium and a bioadditive. The components are dissolved in 5 liters of water, insist. The working solution is prepared in a standard proportion.

  100 ml of Ekomik Harvest concentrate from a bottle is designed for 5 liters of water

• Revival - ripening 1–2 months.

  Biopreparation Renaissance is safe for both humans and animals.

• Gumi-Omi Compostin - 50 ml per bucket of water. Compost matures for 1.5–2 months under an earthen cover, 1–2 months under a dark film.

  The use of compost with Gumi-Omi Compostin significantly reduces the risk of plant damage by fungus.

• Oksizin - is available in 20 ml bottles with a dropper. Consumption: 40 drops per 1–1.5 l of water for 100 kg of organic matter. The drug is added to water, not vice versa, because there will be strong foaming. Ripening time 3-5 weeks.

  Oksizin is produced on the basis of fermented beets

• Compostello - 1 package is designed for 1 m 3 . The powder is dissolved in 20 liters of water, infused for 30-45 minutes. The solution is used throughout the day. Effective at +10 °C. The heap matures in 6-8 weeks.

  Compostello "digests" even weed seeds

• Baikal EM-1 - applied in layers (matures 2–3 months) or once in September on a finished pile. In this case, very warm water is used - approximately + 35 ... + 40 ˚C, the pile is insulated for the winter.

  Baikal EM-1 - a classic example and a representative of the modern generation of concentrates

Last year, I "started" the compost heap in the second way. In addition to grass and food waste, ¼ of the organic matter was goat droppings. In April, I started using what I got. On top of the heap was covered with a dense crust, under which there was a decent quality compost, though not very crumbly. It was inconvenient to use it in cups, but it fit perfectly into the wells.

Video: how to prepare a working solution from a concentrate

Powder preparations

• EM-Bokashi - based on fermented wheat bran. Consumption: 100 g of powder per 10 kg of raw materials. Ripening lasts 2-3 summer weeks.
• Dr. Robik 209 is based on soil bacteria, so the organic matter powdered with Robik is sprinkled with earth. Effective at +5 ˚C. Consumption: 1 sachet (60 g) per 1–1.5 m 2 layer, collected within a month.

Homemade Organics Destructors

Homemade bokashi is cooked on rye or wheat bran. In 1 liter of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of the EM drug (Baikal, Radiance) and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of sugar or jam. The solution is kept for 30 minutes, the bran is moistened to a lumpy state, the mixture is put into a bag, tied tightly, releasing air, left to ripen for 7–14 days in a dark, warm place. The finished mass has a fruity smell. It is dried, used in the same way as the product from the manufacturer.

Video: how to make bokashi yourself

Folk remedies:

• Herbal infusion - combine grass, chicken manure and water in a ratio of 5:2:20. They insist a week.
• Yeast infusion - a mixture of 3 liters of warm water, 0.5 cups of sugar, 1 teaspoon of any yeast is fermented, adjusted with water to a volume of 15 liters. To maintain the balance of calcium, first the pile is poured with ash infusion: three liter jars of ash are infused for 24 hours in 10 liters of warm water, filtered. On a bucket of water take 1 glass of infusion.
• Urine of animals and humans, diluted four times with water.

Video: how to make herbal infusion

I replace the nutrient medium (earth for a layer of organic matter - author) with potato broth, nitrogen with urea. I put half the volume of nettles in a pile, pour water from the eggplant over the palm of my hand, in which the potatoes were boiled (starch), and, sprinkling with urea, I shove the rest of the grass on top. And so every time I arrive, I bring 2 liters of compost tea with me and spill it. Compost matures without manure and has no less nutritional value.

OsgoodFieldinglll

https://olkpeace.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=157&t=51985&start=1600

Bacteria can also be a friend of man, if you use their activities for good. Biological preparations to accelerate the maturation of compost are proof of this.

Any garden or garden soil needs regular feeding. Own compost provides plant nutrition with environmentally friendly organic fertilizer that does not require costs. Special knowledge and skills for harvesting humus are not required, and the benefits for the garden are very tangible.

Homemade compost is an excellent source of organic nutrients. Compost is a product of the processing of organic material (waste) under the influence of a specific microclimate and microorganisms.

Many gardeners prefer to prepare the compost themselves, as this not only saves time and money, but also reduces the amount of hassle, which is always enough on the site. In order to understand from what and how to make fertilizer correctly, it is important to understand how the procedure for its formation takes place. In fact, composting is a natural process of decomposition of organic waste. In the process of fermentation, a fertile loose composition is obtained, which is suitable for any soil. The most common way to make compost with your own hands is to collect leftovers from the kitchen and organic garbage in one pile. After that, bacteria begin to work, which will process "yesterday's" borscht and fallen leaves into humus. As a rule, you can prepare compost in different ways, however, the whole process comes down to using the aerobic or anaerobic method.

Self-made humus is more profitable and healthier than a purchased mixture of unknown ingredients and brings a lot of benefits.

What is the benefit of making compost in the country?

Compost is considered one of the best fertilizers, which, when applied to the soil, fills it with a huge amount of trace elements.

Compost is the cheapest and most practical means for proper soil structuring, as it increases moisture conservation and creates loosening necessary for all plants.

Spreading compost over the surface of the soil creates the best organic mulch that will conserve moisture and inhibit the growth of many weeds in the area.

Composting in a summer cottage is a very useful process, as well as a significant contribution to the development and environmental protection. Not a single mineral fertilizer can be compared with high-quality compost, and a properly formed pit in which organic components rot can become a real incubator for beneficial bacteria and microorganisms.

Composting significantly reduces your physical effort, since now you do not need to take out a good part of the garbage from the territory of your summer cottage, everything can simply be placed in a special pit.

• The use of a compost pit reduces the time and effort to remove a large part of the garbage (tops, plants, wood waste, etc.) from the summer cottage
• Compost is an affordable means to improve the physical properties of the soil (structuring), as well as organic fertilizer
• The uniform distribution of humus on the surface of the garden ensures moisture retention and inhibits the growth of weeds
• The preparation of humus in the country is a natural process in which organic waste is disposed of, fertilizer is prepared and the environment is not harmed

What can be put in compost?

• cut grass;
• foliage that falls in autumn;
• droppings of cattle and birds;
• peat residues;
• tea leaves and coffee;
• egg shells, provided that they have not undergone heat treatment;
• peel and remains of raw vegetables and fruits;
• thin branches;
• straw, sawdust and shells from seeds;
• shredded paper or cardboard.

What not to put in compost:

• vegetable peel after boiling or frying;
• diseased leaves and branches;
• weed plants;
• citrus peel;

Thus, compost waste is divided into two types: nitrogenous (manure and bird droppings, grass, raw vegetables and fruits) and carbonaceous (fallen leaves, sawdust, finely shredded paper or cardboard).

When making your own compost heap, it is important to stick to a 5:1 ratio, i.e. most of it consists of brown components, which are the basis for feeding beneficial bacteria. One part of the pile is green waste. To speed up the process, shredded paper, corn and sunflower shoots, sawdust, dry leaves and grass are used as brown components.

Green components are essential for beneficial microbes, and they decompose quickly. The lack of green part can lead to a lengthening of the time required for composting. If you go too far with the green part, then the pile will smell unpleasantly of ammonia (rotten eggs). The remains of meat and fish products should not be included in the compost in the country, as they take longer to decompose, and there will be an unpleasant smell around.

How to do

The balance of the components is the golden rule at the stage when you are already ready to make garden "gold" in the country with your own hands. A properly stacked pile emits the smell of fertile soil, but if you hear an unpleasant smell, then you need to add brown residues. In order for the process of processing residues to start, the temperature in the center of the pile must reach 60-70 degrees. It should feel warm from it, but if it seems cool to the touch, then you need to add greenery.

The second important rule of a compost heap is constant moisture. It should be like a damp "rug", but not wet. If you notice that a crust is forming, then you need to add a little water. The aerobic composting process requires a constant supply of oxygen, so the pile must be turned frequently. The more often you turn the compost, the faster the finished fertilizer will ripen. You can properly prepare compost in the country in a fast and slow way. Beginning summer residents usually use the first option.

This requires a special box made of wood or plastic, where all the components will be laid. If there is no box, then you can use a pit with wooden logs.

The main thing is that oxygen can freely flow from above and to the side to the contents. Laying components in layers or at random is up to you.

Consider the option of laying a compost pit in layers:

1. Rigid materials should be well crushed, while soft materials, such as grass clippings, should be mixed with harder waste. These activities will achieve the optimal degree of looseness of the compost mass.
2. During the formation of the heap, the thickness of the layer of stacked waste should be 15 cm.
3. In the course of work, care must be taken not to form thick layers. Since in this case compaction will occur, which in turn will make the material impervious to moisture and air.
4. Dry raw materials in the preparation of compost should be slightly moistened, but not poured abundantly.
5. The size of the heap itself has a significant impact on maintaining optimal moisture and temperature indicators in the compost heap. In order for the pile to meet all the necessary requirements, its height should be from 1.2 to 1.5 m, and its length should also be 1.5 m.
6. Each layer must be sprinkled with lime. When forming a pile of 1.2x1.2 m of this substance, 700 g will be required. In addition to lime, components such as ammonium sulfate and superphosphate will also be needed - 300 g and 150 g, respectively.
7. An alternative to ammonium sulfate can be bird droppings (4.5 kg of droppings equates to 450 g of ammonium sulfate). When applying these additives, before laying each layer of waste, the soil layer must be loosened by about 1 cm. If desired, a small amount of lime can be replaced with wood ash. This will help to saturate the heap with potassium and reduce its acidity. To improve the quality of the compost and accelerate its maturation, you can water it with liquid manure.
8. Thus, by adding layers of waste, lime, superphosphate, ammonium sulfate and soil, the pile must be brought to a height of 1.2 m. When the required dimensions are reached, the pile should be covered with soil with a layer of up to 5 cm. her from the rain. To do this, you can use a film, a sheet of plastic or other material. The compost mass must be maintained in a damp state, watering it periodically with water.

Four stages of compost maturation

1. The first stage is decomposition and fermentation. Its duration is from 3 to 7 days. At this stage, the temperature in the heap increases significantly and reaches 68 °C.
2. In the second stage, called restructuring, the temperature drops. The reproduction of fungi and the formation of gases also enter the active phase. These processes take place over two weeks.
3. The third stage is characterized by the formation of new structures. After lowering the temperature level to 20 ° C, worms appear in the mass. The result of their presence is the mixing of mineral and organic substances. As a result of the vital activity of these organisms, humus is formed.
4. The last fourth stage of maturation begins at the moment when the temperature level of the compost is compared with a given environmental indicator.

Adding an activator - BIOTEL-compost.

Due to the composition of natural microorganisms, the process of compost maturation is effectively accelerated. Processes grass, leaves, food waste into a unique organic fertilizer. The composition is safe for humans, animals and the environment.

Mode of application:

1. Dilute 2.5 g of the drug (1/2 teaspoon) in 10 liters of water in a watering can and stir until the powder is completely dissolved.

10 liters of the resulting solution are calculated for 50 liters of waste.

1. Pour the solution over fresh waste and mix thoroughly with a fork.
2. Turn and mix the compost periodically for better air access.
3. When the compost heap or bin is full, allow the contents to mature for 6-8 weeks for fertilizer.

As winter approaches, re-treat the contents of an unfilled compost heap or bin, mix, and leave to ripen until spring. 1 pack is for 3000 l. (3 m³) processed waste. Opened packaging should be stored closed in a cool dry place for no more than 6 months.

Composition: bacterial-enzymatic composition, baking powder, moisture absorber, sugar.

Precautionary measures: The product contains exclusively natural bacterial cultures. Wash your hands after use. Do not store the product near drinking water or food.

Compost application

The use of mature compost, if all processes have been done correctly, is already possible after 6-8 weeks. The substance should be crumbly, slightly wet and dark brown in color. If the mixture smells like earth, then the compost is ready. It is possible to prepare and apply fertilizer throughout the year for almost all crops. It is used when planting trees, shrubs and perennials. A little compost does not fit when planting vegetables in the hole.

Compost can be used as fertilizer, biofuel and mulch. As a fertilizer, compost mass is suitable for any plant crops. That is, creating a protective layer for the soil under trees or plants from drying out, weathering, washing out and enriching it with organic substances, which positively affects the development of the root system. In this case, you need to take into account the fact that not completely decomposed compost may contain weed seeds. Therefore, only well-ripened mass should be used.

As a rule, it is embedded in the soil in the autumn and winter, but it is allowed to be introduced into the soil at any other time. The rate of this fertilizer is 5 kg / m 2. The mass is covered with a rake during cultivation.

Compost should not be used as seedling soil, as it contains a high concentration of nutrients. For this purpose, the mass is mixed with sand or earth. Also, this fertilizer is a good biological fuel for greenhouses in which seedlings are grown and plants are maintained.

A thin layer on the surface of the lawn will be an excellent stimulant for the growth of juicy and dense grass, and making compost with your own hands is not difficult at all.

03 09.18

How to increase the rate of maturation of compost at home?

Homemade compost is a versatile organic fertilizer that can be used on any plant or crop. For its preparation, various wastes are used: cut grass, rotten fruits and vegetables, manure, shells, etc.

What is compost for?

Such organic fertilizer is used not only for the growth of plants and crops, but also to increase soil fertility. This process is carried out in autumn or spring. A thick layer of fertilizer helps to retain the moisture necessary for plant growth, strengthens the root system, saturates the soil with nutrients, and also prevents the growth of weeds.

Thanks to this product, you can not only increase soil fertility, but also get rid of unnecessary plant residues located in the garden.

Many landowners combine organic fertilizers with nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium components to achieve better results. For example, in the fall, along with compost, potassium sulfate or other phosphates are added to the soil.

Despite the versatility of compost, it is not enough to ensure sufficient growth of fruit and vegetable crops. "Black gold", as gardeners call it differently, can be made from 6 to 12 months. Consider simple ways to accelerate the growth of compost.

Ways to accelerate the maturation of garden compost

1. Maintaining the required humidity. During the manufacturing process, organic fertilizer must be watered at least once a week. This feature will speed up ripening by about 2 months. Many experts recommend watering with a solution of litter or manure. This will speed up the process even more.

Humidity fluctuations have a huge effect. If the fertilizer dries up, then useful trace elements die, and it takes time to restore them. The top layer of compost should be earthy. Another option is to cover the fertilizer with a film and make holes in it for oxygen to enter. All these activities will certainly accelerate maturation.