Installation of interior doors with their own. Installation of interior doors, basic rules

The interior door serves to divide the space in the room, and also provides sound insulation in a private house or apartment. In addition, the door leaf is an important interior detail, so it must match the design style. Since installation work is quite expensive, the question arises of how to properly install interior doors with your own hands. The answer is in the detailed step-by-step instructions on this page.

Dimensions and equipment

According to the method of opening the doors are folding, sliding and hinged. The latter are the most popular, since they are structurally the simplest and fairly easy to install. They are presented in a large number of modifications. According to the method of opening, the following are distinguished:

double-sided and single-sided;
left and right sided.

Step 3: Installing the box and hanging the canvas

The box must be installed in a pre-prepared opening. The hinge post must be leveled first with a plumb or level. It is necessary to check it from all sides. Then the upper crossbar and the rack must be spread with wedges. The rack will only be exposed when it is in a vertical position.
Next, wedged the second rack. Be sure to check the horizontal part of the box.

The old way - the side racks must be drilled through. To do this, holes for dowels are initially made in the wall. The box must be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws at least 150 mm long.

Old way fasteners

In order to fix the box in the opening in a hidden way, you can use metal plates, which are usually used to install drywall structures. Most often, such plates are used together with anchors. In this case, it is worth choosing the number of fasteners in accordance with the expected load.

This is what the mount looks like

The use of such plates is a non-standard method and is possible only in the absence of a fine finish. It is recommended to gouge a section of the wall in order to subsequently putty the fasteners.

It remains to hang the door on the frame. After that, you need to carry out the final adjustment of the box. The lock post must then be fitted under the door so that it does not protrude beyond the wall. It is worth remembering that in order to preserve the integrity of the box and canvas, you must first drill several holes for the screws.

Step 4: Foaming

After fixing the canvas, you need to foam the gaps between the box and the edges of the opening. The foam should be fed carefully, in layers, while the feed is from above so that it does not come out. Then the door will have to be closed and not touched for a certain time so that the foam dries. Estimated drying time is 1 day.

If the composition accidentally gets on the canvas, immediately remove it with a clean, dry cloth, dried fragments are cleaned with effective ones.

Step 5: Installing the lock and handles in the door leaf

The most popular today are handles with a built-in lock. The order of work is as follows:

Make a mark one meter from the floor. The handle mechanism must be applied so that the mark is visible in the hole from above.
Drill holes in the canvas from the end. After that, the edges of the holes should be cut with a chisel to align the hole.
Insert the mechanism into the hole. In this case, the lock must be aligned, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The bar on the lock should be outlined with a pencil to cut the veneer, then the mechanism should be removed. According to the outlined contour, you need to select a site to determine the thickness of the locking bar. This is done using a chisel.
Drill holes for the latch and handles. It is necessary to attach the lock to the canvas from different sides, align it and mark it. Holes must be made on both sides and they must not be through.
Remove the formed chips and install the handles.

Step 6: Installing the trim strips

An extension is a plank about 2 meters long, 250 mm wide, and no more than 3 cm thick. The plank should be used during the installation of interior doors if the wall is thicker than the door frame.

The bar for the box is made in a standard width - approximately 70 mm. It can be expanded according to the thickness of the opening with an extension. This will allow you to more clearly combine the box and walls. On the bar there is a groove for the strap. First you need to measure the distance to the edge of the wall, starting from the depth of the groove.

The add-on can be installed in different ways:

into the groove in the box;
with cutting a groove in the absence of finished;
attaching the extension from the inside of the timber in the absence of a groove, the box is installed at the same time together with the extension;
fastening dobor in the form of "P";
if the extension is not too wide and there is no groove in the box, the bar should be drilled and screwed to the box.

The plank is sawn into several parts with a circular saw to get several extensions of the required dimensions. You need to prepare one short bar and two vertical ones. Check out our simple step by step guide to .

Step 7: Trim fasteners

During the installation of platbands, the box must be located at the same level as the opening on the front side. To connect the platbands, you must first attach a vertical bar to the box and put a mark 0.5 cm higher, stepping back from the crossbar of the box. This mark will act as the cut edge. In the same way, you need to mark the cut on the other side.

Until recently, installing interior doors with your own hands was a rather difficult task and required serious experience and skills from a person. Now everything has become much easier, having a good tool and knowing the procedure for installing interior doors, any home master is able to finish the job in a day. Next, we will step by step analyze how to properly install an interior door in two ways.

Variants of canvases for interior doors.

Before you put an interior door, you must first select it. When choosing, there are 2 main criteria - this is the size of the structure and the material from which the doors and the box to them are actually made.

Material selection

It is not so important to install an interior door in a wooden house or in a room in an urban high-rise building, the design must be not only beautiful, but also reliable, and this primarily depends on the material.

Fiberboard is perhaps the most common option. The design is a hollow box on both sides closed with thin sheets of fiberboard and based on a frame made of wooden bars.

You should not hurry with the installation of such a door, of course it is light and cheap, and it can look quite decent, but not everything is in order with reliability, such a design can be broken even with a fist, plus there is a high probability that in a couple of years it will begin to exfoliate.

MDF is the middle ground between cheap fiberboard and good wood construction. The array is dense, durable, and most importantly completely environmentally friendly. Self-installation of interior laminated MDF sheets at home is an excellent way out if there are no funds for installers, but you want a beautiful door.

The MDF canvas must be laminated with high quality, then it will not visually differ from the wooden one.

Natural wood - it is traditionally believed that the installation of wooden doors is the best option, but this is wrong, here you need to look at the quality and the manufacturer. Believe me, sometimes it is better to insert interior doors from good MDF laminate than to take a raw pine, which in six months will lead.

When buying wooden canvases, you need to carefully evaluate the quality of the forest.

If you decide to change interior doors and you have a high-quality wooden loot, then it is not necessary to touch it, you can only replace the canvas. In this case, the technology for installing interior doors will be much easier.

GOSTs, tolerances and unclear questions

The size of the doorway for installation is perhaps the most important of the initial parameters. To this day, all such structures are made according to Soviet GOSTs, by the way, the Chinese are also guided by these dimensions, but in Europe, despite the supposedly uniform standard, many countries do it their own way.

So if our minimum web width starts from 600 mm and further in increments of 100 mm, it reaches 900 mm, then France produces canvases starting from 690 mm, but the graduation also comes in increments of 100 mm.

Germany, Spain and Italy, as well as all the countries of the former socialist camp, in this respect are guided by almost the same standards as our manufacturers.

Interior doors have clear standards that you need to check before you install an interior door yourself.

As for tolerances, a gap of 3 mm is left between the box and the canvas itself on the sides and top. According to the rules, at least 20 mm must be made between the floor and the canvas. This slot is needed for normal ventilation in the apartment.

Any gap can be left along the perimeter of the box in block buildings, up to several millimeters, the main thing is that the box becomes even, but if we cut the doors in a wooden house with our own hands, then we set a tolerance of at least 15 mm, it is needed in case the house gives shrinkage.

When an interior door is selected, installation is already the last stage, before that you need to read the description in detail, because the price can be indicated depending on the configuration, there are 3 options:

Only the door leaf is for sale - this option is good if the door is planned to be installed on an old box;
The canvas is sold together with the box, but the box comes unassembled, here, even before you install the interior door with your own hands, you will have to cut it to size and assemble the box, which in most cases is even good;
Fully assembled units with a finished frame, canvas, locks and hinges are installed only if preparation of the opening is not required. There it is enough to cut the racks in height and install the interior door yourself.

Do not forget that it is not enough just to install interior doors in the opening, a complete installation of an interior door provides for the arrangement of platbands, extensions (if necessary) and accessories, so it is also advisable to take them right away, otherwise the shade may not come up later.

Installation of interior doors will not be complete without platbands and fittings.

There is another important question - when to install interior doors during repairs? So, the instructions for installing interior doors say that such structures are mounted at the very end of the repair, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling, but before installing floor skirting boards.

Two mounting options

With dimensional tolerances and other acute issues sorted out, now it's time to find out how to install the interior door yourself. But in order to assemble and install the structure, we need a tool.

A few words about the instrument and related material

To install interior doors, we need:

A hacksaw for wood, but ideally it is better to have a miter saw, it does not leave chips, plus you can set the exact cutting angle there;
To expose openings between the box and the wall, wedges are required;
A hammer;
Chisel;
Screwdriver;
Electric drill;
Plumb;
Level;
Pencil;
Roulette.

Installing an interior door on your own without a good tool is not realistic.

Important! Safety regulations categorically prohibit cutting a tree with a grinder. If you value your health, don't even think about it.

Of the auxiliary materials for installing doors you will need:

Mounting foam;
masking tape;
Self-tapping screws of different sizes and sections;
Anchor bolts with dowels.

Opening preparation

Ideally, before installing an interior door, the edges of the walls should, if not plastered, then at least leveled with a cement-sand mortar.

But in real conditions, the preparation of the doorway for the installation of an interior door ends with fitting the dimensions to the box, because then the impartial cracks will foam up and close with platbands, so there is no point in inducing special beauty.

It is advisable to level the doorway before installing the box.

There is one important point here: often the installation of a double interior door requires an expansion of the opening, and so, when it comes to piers, they can be “redrawn” as you see fit. But if the wall is load-bearing, then a slight expansion of no more than 5-7 cm is allowed, otherwise there may be problems, both with the wall and with the law.

Box assembly

Do-it-yourself door box can be assembled in two ways - this is with cutting the corners of the upper bar at 45º and joining the bars at a right angle. Both methods are good, but it is believed that the 45º corner joint will look more elegant.

Really high-quality corner trimming can only be done with the help of trimming, if you are assured that an ordinary plastic miter box and a hacksaw for wood are suitable for this, do not believe it, you can ruin the boxes.

The vertical posts are cut off at 45º first, after which you can proceed to trimming the upper horizontal bar. In order to set aside 3 mm, it is convenient to use a piece of fiberboard as a template.

We measure the gap relative to the upper bar with a template.

You put the top bar cut on one side and slide it along the cut of the template;
Then go to the opposite side of the door and, applying the same template, mark the cut line.

Trimming the top bar at an angle using trimming.

Now we lay out the finished, trimmed slats of the box on the floor and once again control the dimensions.

It looks like a door frame cut at an angle.

The box is fastened in stages. First you need to tightly connect the planks to each other the way they should be;
The slats of the box when screwing the screws can crack, so that this does not happen, before assembling, we need to drill channels for the screws. This is done with a 2.5 mm drill (we have a 3.5 mm self-tapping screw);

Preparing to fasten the box.

Now you can screw the screws into the ends of the box on both sides, and there should be 2 screws on each side of the corner.

There is a small nuance here, the vertical bar of the box to which the hinges will be attached completely on both sides does not need to be tightened, we still have to remove it.

Fixing the box with cutting at an angle.

If there is no miter saw in your arsenal, then it is better to mount the box strips at a right angle. Perhaps this is not so aesthetically pleasing, but the step-by-step instructions will be somewhat simpler.

We start by trying on the upper crossbar, we will cut it between the two side posts. Some masters mount the crossbar above the side racks, there is not much difference, here it’s already convenient for anyone.

Along the perimeter of the box, we have a side into which the door leaf lies when closing. To embed the upper cross member, on the side racks we need to remove this side. To do this, we apply the upper cross member to the rack, mark and cut the side with a hacksaw, and clean out the place for installation.

Now we just have to insert the top bar between the two side posts, drill holes for a pair of self-tapping screws and secure the inserted bar with self-tapping screws.

If you decide to put the bar on top of the racks, then there you will need to cut the inner side on the top bar, then drill and drive the screws from above, as shown in the diagram below.

Do-it-yourself installation of a bar placed on top.

Installing hinges and handles

For a door, installing hinges is one of the most important steps. In principle, you can embed a lock and hang hinges even after installing the box in the opening, but if you mount the doors yourself (without assistants), then it is better to do it right away.

Loops are overhead and hidden. Butterfly overlay hinges are easier to work with, since you don’t need to cut anything in the door leaf and frame, so we’ll start with them.

A little advice: if the door should open on the right side, then you insert the hinges on the right, respectively, for left-hand opening, the hinges must be mounted on the left rack.

Installation of loops begins with markings on the canvas itself. According to the rules, the distance from the top or bottom point of the canvas to the loop should be 200 - 250 mm. You can measure with a tape measure, as in the photo below, but if there was no tape measure at hand, then use the loops themselves, where the standard size is 100 mm.

We make markings for the installation of loops.

Do not confuse: the small (inner) part of the butterfly loop is attached to the door leaf, and the large one, to the box post. Before screwing the screws under them, you need to drill holes, only after that the screws are driven.

All hinges have recesses for the heads of the screws, so make sure that these recesses “look” up. If the hinges are installed the other way around, then the heads of the self-tapping screws will remain above the hinges, respectively, the doors will not close completely.

We drill holes for butterfly loops.

The box is practically assembled, now we put it on the floor and put the door leaf inside. As you remember, we should have 3 mm around the perimeter of the canvas, so we immediately insert as many homemade fiberboard templates as possible (3 mm thick) between the box and the canvas.

One part of the loop is screwed to the canvas, in order to screw the second part of the loop to the box, we make a mark on the box. Then we unscrew the self-tapping screws fixing the bearing vertical bar and fasten the reciprocal part of the loops to it. Then we return the bar of the box to its place and fix it completely.

We fasten the hinges to the vertical rack of the box.

Self-installation of hidden loops is not much more complicated than the above method. The difference lies in the fact that in the door leaf and the box you need to cut grooves for the hinges. This is done with a mallet, chisel and knife.

We cut grooves for mounting hidden loops

As for the installation of the door handle, you can read about it in detail, as well as view it on the video in this article. And do not forget that the hinges must be lubricated, you can find out about the rules for lubrication.

There are different ways to install interior doors in a wall opening, it all depends on the specific conditions. Next, we will consider the simplest and most popular options.

Method number 1. Classic

At the moment, our racks of the box should be cut to the height of the opening, the hinges and the lock are embedded, the door is closed, and 3 mm thick templates are inserted between the canvas and the box.

When the door block is inserted into the opening, first of all, wooden or plastic wedges are driven around the perimeter, they will hold the block until it is finally fixed.

The classic scheme for installing interior doors using wedges.

Fixing is a rather crucial moment, here we expose the block vertically and horizontally. Keep in mind: the wall is not always strictly vertical, so check the box with a plumb line.

It is better to check the vertical by plumb.

In order for the door block not to fall out from a strong push, it must be firmly fixed with anchor bolts or at least long self-tapping screws. We recommend using anchor bolts with a thickness of 6 - 8 mm.

The principle is simple:

Drill a through hole in the box and slightly drill into the wall;
Remove the door block and drill holes for dowels at the drilling points;
Put the box in place and fix it with anchors. The box should become clear in level, since before that we have already verified everything.

If you fix the box with long self-tapping screws, then they are installed around the entire perimeter with an interval of half a meter, but the caps of the self-tapping screws need to be somehow hidden. You can close them with a decorative strip or plastic lining.

Anchor bolts are a powerful thing and 3 points are enough to fix the box - two points under the hinges and one under the lock plate. In combination with mounting foam, this is enough.

Now we fill the perimeter of the box with mounting foam. We move from the bottom up, the foam must be blown out without fanaticism, because when it expands, it can squeeze out the door frame.

Plus, at the time the foam is blown in, the door block must be assembled and three-millimeter templates must be inserted around the perimeter, this will protect the box from deformation.

Remember: only on the "bare" foam (without screws or anchors) the door block cannot be fixed.

Method number 2. Metal hangers

If mounting the box on self-tapping screws or anchors is not suitable for you, the same can be done using metal hangers. These hangers are used for mounting frames under drywall.

Use of hangers to fix the door frame.

The technology is similar:

Collect the box;
Insert the box into the opening and level it;
Fix the box with wedges in the opening;

Bend the wings of the hangers along the wall;
Mark the entry points for dowel-nails and drill holes for them;
Attach the wings of the suspensions to the walls with dowel-nails;
Fill with foam and wait until it hardens.

The size of the box for double-leaf interior doors is twice as large, respectively, the probability of squeezing out the racks and the crossbar with mounting foam is higher, so installation on suspensions is optimal here.

Fixing the frame for double doors on suspensions.

Conclusion

Both of the above methods have been tested in practice and work perfectly. For the same masters who wish to install interior sliding doors for themselves, we have prepared step-by-step instructions.

Installing interior doors with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems.

Beginners, deciding to do all the work of installing interior doors on their own, often miss important nuances that are well known to experienced craftsmen. An important point will be careful preparation for installation work, the use of reliable fasteners.

A properly installed door will close without any extra effort, without falling apart, even if they periodically slam. The carrier is the box. The reliability of the structure depends on how strong it will be.

The design must be correctly set - for this you need to purchase a building level. It is best to use a laser, as they are very convenient to work with.

Installation of interior doors is carried out in several stages. The door leaf and the frame must be equipped with fittings. In order to conveniently close the door, you need to install a handle. If required, it can be provided with a spring lock. Hinges should be made on the door and box. The curtain can only be hung after the preliminary adjustment has been made. After that, you can proceed to the installation of platbands.

How to make markup

Do-it-yourself door installation will require labor costs from a beginner. If the master completes the installation in 1 day, then the novice builder can spend much more time. This point must be taken into account if emergency installation of the structure is required.

It is important to complete all the steps in a clear sequence, strictly observing building codes. A number of door blocks already have fasteners for installation. But there are products, the box of which will have to be assembled on their own. They are sets that include wooden bars and trim strips. In addition, the manufacturer includes a door leaf in the finished set.

Having decided to assemble the box on your own, you can use different methods. It is necessary to pay close attention to the quality of work, because if even the slightest error in measurements occurs, you will either have to do all the work again, or buy new parts of the structure.

You can install a door in an interior partition with or without a threshold. The simplest option would be to install a structure without a threshold, but option 2 will require a bar-bar. In this case, the finished structure will look like a rectangle.

The step by step guide will help. Before you start work, you need to take the exact dimensions. First you need to know the dimensions of the opening. Then you should make calculations by determining the dimensions of the side racks and lintels. Then you need to determine the optimal size of the door leaf, not forgetting about the technological gaps. Having made the markup, the elements are sawn off with a hacksaw, and then the assembly of interior doors begins.

It is important to correctly calculate the thickness of the box, which should not be less than the thickness of the wall. In order for the measurements to be clear, you need to use a tape measure. Novice builders should not rely on the fact that the same elements, such as side racks, will be "mirror". To avoid measurement error, each element must be measured separately on the right side, and then on the left. If deviations are found in the process, then they should be taken into account in further work.

How to install an interior door yourself? Particular attention should be paid to the feigned beam, which should have a gap for the mounting foam. It is enough to allocate 1 cm to it. The same should be done with the lintel and the loop bar.

The gap on the inside should be much smaller, 0.3 cm is enough. If the interior door is with a threshold, then the gap should go around the entire perimeter of the structure. When installing a structure without a threshold, a gap must be left between the floor and the canvas. The average value is 1 cm. Such an assembly and installation of interior doors will be considered correct.

On vertical racks, sawing marks are required, which are determined on the inside of the bar. If the hole is too small, it must be enlarged. If the hole is too large, then it is reduced by laying drywall cut to size.

Door installation options

In order to make a cut, it is better to use a lathe. In this case, the installation of the door frame will take little time. If there is no machine, then a hacksaw and a miter box are suitable as an alternative.

When installing an interior door, you can use the following 2 methods:

make a gash by doing it at an angle of 45º;
do the job at a 90º angle.

How to install an interior door with your own hands? If we talk about option 1, then it is quite complicated. From an inexperienced carpenter, the work will require increased attention. But as a result of carefully executed docking, you will get a product that looks very beautiful.

In order to connect several elements, you need to use self-tapping screws. Under them you need to make special holes. If the door is made of MDF, then the work should be carried out in advance, which will avoid damage to the workpieces. It is most convenient to work using a drill, the diameter of which is 3/4 of the diameter of the fasteners. It is best to buy self-tapping screws, in which the thread reaches the head.

If we talk about method 2, then it assumes that the angle of the gash will be 90º. To perform the work, you will need a hacksaw with fine teeth. The upper beam is attached to the vertical posts with 2 self-tapping screws; they are screwed on each side. In order to make a threshold, the timber must be cut at a right angle.

The easiest way to assemble the structure is by laying out the elements on the floor or a large table. The master must install the fittings. Performing interior decoration, it is necessary to properly fix the functional fittings.

Do not forget about fire safety. In order to quickly evacuate the room, it is necessary to install a door that opens outwards.

How to install interior doors? There are several options. Hinges are hung on the right or left - there are universal products on sale. If earlier it was possible to buy hinges that required accurate tapping, now you can purchase products that do not require cutting the veneer.

From the top edge of the canvas you need to indent, 20 cm is enough. Then the loops are hung. From the bottom should retreat the same distance. Variations are possible: in these cases, they recede 5 cm in both directions. You can additionally strengthen the structure by hanging 3 loops. It is located 50 cm from the top line.

Do-it-yourself door frame installation

In order to fix the box in the opening, you need to buy an anchor. The door will be held securely by 3 long self-tapping screws. In addition, the structure will be supported by mounting foam.

You can drill a door frame made of wood without preparatory work. The installation procedure is as follows:

The door frame is assembled on the floor.
The structure is lifted and installed in the opening.
Wedges are made from the remnants of lumber, which are placed between the walls and the box. This forms a gap for the mounting foam.
Screwing screws. Leveling the base using the building level. The accuracy of the installation can be checked with a plumb bob. If deviations are fixed, then they can be corrected by loosening or tightening the screws.
Installation of hinges and canvas. Before applying the mounting foam, the box must be sealed with adhesive tape. Cardboard must be inserted into the gap. The door is closed, the cavity is blown out with mounting foam.

After completing the installation work, you need to wait for the foam to dry completely. The excess can be cut off, and then the installation of the platbands can be performed.

Is it so terrible to install interior doors with your own hands, as it is presented? In fact, this is not the most difficult repair operation. It certainly requires a high degree of concentration on the process, but even a beginner can master it by following the recommended sequence of actions.

A successful final result will be achieved if you are careful at every step of the work. The whole process of installing a door between rooms can be divided into successive stages:

assembly of the door frame;
its installation;
installation of the door leaf;
fixing the additional element;
framing with platbands.

If only one interior door will be updated inside your house, and you have no installation experience, it makes sense to turn to specialists - it will be faster. If you have to install a larger number of them, it is better to do it yourself - in this case, a decent saving of money, time, and also the acquisition of useful experience is possible.

Required tools and materials

To independently install an interior door, you should stock up on such tools in advance:

a hammer;
tape measure 3-5 m;
a set of chisels;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
miter box (special tray for cutting boards at an angle);
building (bubble) level;
a circular saw;
perforator with an adapter for a drill;
electromilling machine;
wood saw;
Miter saw.

Of the fasteners you will need:

black screws;
several cylinders of mounting foam;
nails with a small hat;
dowels;
finishing nails.

Necessary fittings and accessories:

small bars for wedges with a cross section of up to 40 × 40 mm;
door hinges (preferably detachable);
latch lock.

Features of choosing a door

Arriving at a furniture store, a potential buyer will be amazed at the variety of models. Externally, the doors look perfect, but inside it can have serious flaws. It's about geometry. Even a slight difference in the lengths of the sides of the leaf of 1-2 mm can seriously complicate the installation of the door. If time and money invested are precious to you, do not be too lazy to measure the canvas right in the store. It is also important to ensure that the measured door is loaded.

The next step is the purchase of a door frame. Some of them make up a single set with doors, but some are sold separately. It is much easier to install interior doors if you purchase a canvas with a box from one manufacturer, and not do the latter yourself.

If it is impossible to buy a box for financial or other reasons, you can create it yourself by purchasing a special bar (box). A homemade box will consist of two vertical racks and one horizontal top (lintel). The purchased timber should not have knots, unevenness, roughness. The thickness of the acquired timber is equal to the thickness of the door leaf, otherwise installation will be impossible.

Buying a single unit greatly facilitates installation, since the structure can be fixed without assistants. However, there is one caveat - after pouring the block with foam, you need at least 6 hours not to make any manipulations with the door. If possible, it is recommended to opt for a set of canvas with a frame.

Preparing the premises for the installation of an interior door

The installation of the door block is preceded by the pre-finishing of the room. It involves the alignment of the walls, which are puttied and plastered. Works performed in humid environments are completed in advance, and the room is ventilated and dried, otherwise the frame will “lead” due to dampness.

Inside the rooms and between them, the rough and finishing floors should already be laid. Thanks to this, the door frame will be correctly mounted at the height of the threshold. There is no need to re-lay the floor if the block is only replaced with a new one.

Assembly and installation of the door frame

The frame is assembled first. To do this, the racks are trimmed so that the gap between the floor or wall and the door leaf is about 10 mm, and are connected with self-tapping screws. Then the width, height, verticality of the opening is checked with a bubble level. The box is ready.

From the bottom and top of the frame, 20 cm are measured for future loops. A similar operation is then performed on the door leaf. With a chisel, places are selected for fastening for installing interior doors (hinges), a block is assembled. Now it is fixed inside the opening with wedges. Again the geometry is controlled by the level.

To maintain a small gap between the canvas and the frame, thick cardboard is taken, folded in half, inserted into the gap. Such "extenders" should be inserted every 10-15 cm along the perimeter of the frame.

The block is placed inside the opening. The mounting gap between the block and the wall is filled with foam without any free space remaining. After that, all wedges are removed.

Most types of polyurethane foam dry after 5-6 hours, but after this time it is still able to expand slightly. Therefore, it is better to leave the door closed for 10-12 hours. After this time, all spacers, wedges, inserts are removed. The final stage remains - the installation of handles, the insertion of the lock, the plastering of the slopes, the installation of the platbands. It is obvious that the total installation time of the door does not exceed 2-3 hours for beginners, not counting the period of complete drying of the foam.

Features of installing a door inside a log house

Some buildings (country house, bathhouse) are made of logs or thick beams. The installation sequence is almost the same as the points listed above, but there is an important nuance - wooden buildings from a log house shrink. It is important to pause when installing the doors, because even after six months the house will only partially sit down. In another year, the shrinkage will be maximum, and the next 3-4 years, the structure will shrink a little more.

For 1 year, the house is able to decrease in height by 5 cm, so installing a door in a log house involves deviations from the generally accepted technology. In order to exclude the occurrence of distortion or other negative influence of the house on the door block, it is recommended to make a casing or simply install bars.

Casing is an element that has a longitudinal spike inserted on the sides of the block. Further shrinkage will only affect it, while not affecting the frame. To do this, a spike 50 mm high and about 35 mm wide is cut out on the sides of the opening. Further, in a bar with a section of 100 × 100 mm, a groove 50 mm wide is cut out, and a little more than a spike (about 40 mm) in height. The length of the beam on the sides should be 5 cm more than the height of the door block when installed in a fresh frame and 2-3 cm when installed in an established one. The top of the casing will be a board 50 × 200 mm, installed by surprise, fixed to self-tapping screws.

Another method (installation of bars) differs only in material savings. Products with a section of 50 × 50 mm are placed inside the groove along the ends. Then the frame is attached to them in order: the side part - the horizontal upper strut - the second sidewall - the bottom threshold. The downside of this solution is that there may be a weakening of the structure, coupled with distortions or deformation of the block due to a lack of wood inside the groove, so the first method (casing) is more preferable.

Features of mounting a door in an aerated concrete wall

Although the material in question for building structures is an excellent sound insulator and saves heat, it is also very fragile. With wide doors installed (from 85 cm), serious shock loads are inevitable at the fixation points of the door block. To prevent premature destruction, you need to make additional wood frames or embedded bars from dry boards, plywood, glued wood. The material is pre-treated with antiseptics or thermally. When using ordinary wood, it is better to give preference to larch - resistant to decay and economically consistent with the species.

The easiest way to strengthen the structure is to ruin the embedded bar inside the end surface. It is treated with a layer of special aerated concrete or tile adhesive, and fastened to anchors or self-tapping screws from 8 cm long. Short fasteners (4, 5, 7 cm) withstand a small shear load, so they will wear out over time. The frame itself is also fixed on self-tapping screws.

The second way to strengthen the frame - the installation of panels - involves either full coverage of the opening around the perimeter, or partial (the segments are installed 50-60 cm apart). Free areas in the latter case are filled with mounting foam with a slight degree of expansion.

Both methods are equally good. Due to the holding forces of fasteners and the bursting force of the mounting foam, reliable installation of doors in aerated concrete is achieved, allowing them to serve for more than one decade.

Final work - installation of platbands

After the foam has dried after 12 hours, it remains to install the trim. They are evenly cut with a circular saw, butted together at an angle of 45 degrees, fastened with finishing nails. Before they are driven in, holes are made at the fixation points with a size approximately equal to half the diameter of the fastener.

To increase the strength of the connection of platbands, it is recommended:

lubricate the plane of their attachment with silicone sealant;
pre-apply a platband and fix with studs or small nails;
cover the holes with colored mastic after driving in the fasteners.

Precautions, rules of care

The key to successful work on the installation of an interior door is the control of all geometric parameters before purchase, the external condition, and the configuration. After payment for the goods, no claims will be accepted.

It is advisable not to allow strong temperature fluctuations inside the rooms. Also, monitor the regular ventilation of the premises - due to the lack of fresh air, there is an increase in humidity, leading to damage to wooden products.

If the door is installed where the temperature or humidity periodically rises, it is necessary to carefully ventilate this place until the mode normalizes (bath, sauna, bathroom).

The door should not be thrown open abruptly, with force or in any other way that causes a violation of the integrity of the block. Although most models have special coatings that prevent wear, you should avoid rough mechanical impact on the canvas, platbands, frame.

Regularly clean wooden surfaces with a damp cloth, napkin, cloth. Such a simple way of care will preserve their aesthetic beauty.

Contact of wood with acids, alkalis, solvents, and other chemicals is undesirable. They destroy the integrity of the material.

Obviously, the above step-by-step instructions for installing an interior door make the entire installation process very doable. Following the advice will allow you to competently cope with the task, and timely care for new interior items will preserve their aesthetics and functionality for a long time.

Repairs in the house will have an unfinished look without the installation of such an interior element as doors. They protect the living space from external negative factors, contribute to heat and sound insulation, bring coziness and comfort. Ordinary, at first glance, they differ in material, shape, color, design, have many classifications and types. Despite their differences, all doors require certain knowledge and skills to install them. This is a very painstaking and precise work for a team of two people. Despite the complexity of the work, installing doors with your own hands is quite within the power of anyone who skillfully handles the tool. The main thing is to do everything gradually, measuredly, without haste, observing the rules for installing doors.

Measurements, selection, purchase of doors.
Preparation of the opening for the installation of a new door.
Installation of hinges and lock on the door leaf.
Assembly of the door frame.
Installation of additional elements.
Fastening the door frame in the doorway.
Connecting the door leaf to the frame.
Fixing the structure with mounting foam.
Fastening fittings and platbands.

To perform the work you will need a certain tool:

a hammer;
chisels 16 and 20 mm;
roulette;
crowbar;
level;
screwdriver and screwdriver;
wood saw with fine teeth;
miter box;
drill and perforator;
if possible, a milling machine, circular.

Materials for door installation:

door leaf and door frame;
door fittings (handles, hinges, locks);
mounting foam;
wedges;
nails, screws and dowels.

Plastered and prepared door slopes

Before you install the door, you should prepare the installation site. If there is an old door, then we will dismantle it. To do this, with the help of a crowbar, avoiding strong and abrupt movements, we first remove the trim. Carefully lift and remove the old door leaf from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, we dismantle the door frame, to facilitate the process, we file the frame in several places with a hacksaw. Quite often in houses, the door frame was cemented. And to take it out, you have to break the cement with a hammer.

To facilitate the installation of the door, the slopes can be leveled and plastered. At the end of the preparation, we clean the doorway from construction debris. If the doorway has never been used, then you can immediately start measuring it.

Taking measurements, choosing, buying

To purchase the desired door, you will need dimensions in height and width, as well as the dimensions of the slopes of the doorway. Since in most cases the doorway has uneven edges, you should take measurements in several places and choose the smallest size.

We lay the floor covering for the correct installation of the box

Important! When taking measurements, you should take into account the gap between the door frame and the doorway. It should be 10-15 mm. It is recommended to install doors after laying the flooring, if there is none yet, then the height of the flooring and the gap between the floor and the door should be included in the dimensions. For a more visual measurement, you can put parts of the floor covering in the doorway. This is necessary in order to know the exact level of the floor, the free movement of the door depends on it. The gap between the door and the floor is usually 10 mm.

Now that the old doors have been dismantled, dimensions have been taken, and the slopes have been leveled and puttied, you can order doors. As a rule, doors have standard sizes, but if necessary, you can make an individual order based on the size of the doorway.

To choose the right doors, you need to know their types and purpose. For installation in the house, you should pay attention to the entrance, interior and, if necessary, kitchen doors.

We also choose according to the opening method. The most popular option is swing doors. Doors are made using approximately the same technology - this is strapping and internal filling. The power structure or skeleton of the door, where the lock is inserted and the hinges are attached, is sheathed with fiberboard, MDF or other material, and the internal space is filled.

There are several designs of doors - solid, paneled and smooth.

smooth doors, they are also panel doors, can be made with an outer layer of MDF and fiberboard, sometimes such doors are sheathed with plastic. They are usually painted, veneered or laminated. The price of such doors varies depending on the materials and method of sheathing. The most practical and affordable are the doors sheathed with laminate. Painted doors can be both cheap and expensive. It all depends on the type of material and the method of painting. The most expensive are doors lined with natural veneer.

Paneled doors are distinguished by their open design and the presence of drawings, patterned carvings and stained glass windows. Such doors can be filled with glass, carved panels, and other materials. They are made from a solid array of precious woods or combined materials. Prices for panel doors depend on the type of materials. The cheapest and most affordable are made from soft woods, as well as from combined materials (MDF, HDF).

Solid wood doors made from precious woods. This affects primarily their price and weight, they are very high. The doors are covered with varnishes and various impregnations, thus they are well protected from damage by insects, fungi and mold.

Having selected the desired doors and received them, we proceed to the phased installation of the doors.

After the purchase, we unpack the door leaf, platbands, door frame, extensions, fittings. We carefully check everything for cracks, chips or other damage. As long as the lock, hinges or other door fittings are not embedded, the doors can be returned to the manufacturer.

Preparation of places for fastening the lock and hinges

Installing the door leaf on the floor for easy cutting with a cutter

Lock hole

Before assembling the door frame, mark and select with a cutter or chisel the place where the hinges and the lock are attached to the door leaf and the vertical post. To do this, we install the door leaf in a vertical position on the wide side in special stands. In order not to damage the canvas, the inside of the coasters is upholstered with fabric. We attach the lock and mark the place of its installation with a pencil. To make it convenient to use the lock, we install it at a height of 900 mm from the floor. To install the hinges, we measure 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door. We attach the loops and outline the place for milling. Using a hand cutter or chisel, we select the excess so that the hinges and the lock lie flush. We put them back and drill holes for self-tapping screws with a drill.

Finally, we apply the vertical post to the door leaf in such a way that there is a gap of 2-3 mm between the horizontal crossbar of the door frame and the door leaf. We mark the place of attachment of the hinges and the place for the tongue of the lock and select the excess using a milling machine or chisel. Attach hinges and drill holes for self-tapping screws.

Important! Places for a lock and loops after sampling with a cutter or chisel must be varnished. In this simple way, the tree will be protected from moisture. It should be remembered that entrance and heavy doors are mounted on three hinges, and two hinges will be enough for interior doors.

Hinge and lock installation

When the places for the lock and hinges are selected by the cutter, you can proceed with their installation.

With loops, things are simple. They just need to be screwed to the door leaf.

mortise lock

Installing a lock, on the other hand, will require some effort. In order for the lock to become correct, it is applied to the side of the door and, as a stencil, holes for handles, valves and fasteners are marked. Using a cutter or chisel, we select a place for the lock to the desired depth. Then we put it in place and fasten it.

Important! When choosing a lock, you should take into account the width of the door bar. The depth of the hole for the lock should not exceed 1/3 of its width, otherwise deformation of the door leaf cannot be avoided.

Starting to collect the door frame, we measure the height of the vertical racks and cut them with a miter box. Horizontal bars are made to the size of the door leaf.

Since the collection of the box requires a large free space, the collection process itself is carried out on the floor. In order not to accidentally damage the door frame on the floor, we lay two or three wooden slats under the racks for the entire length of the door leaf.

We attach the horizontal crossbar to the racks. The joints can be lightly tapped with a hammer for a better connection, and with the help of a screwdriver we fix the box, screwing the screws into the corner joints.

Important! There are doors with a ready-assembled door frame. The installation of these doors is very simple. In this case, the door frame is simply fitted into the doorway and fixed in it.

Fastening of additional parts

In the event that the width of the door is several centimeters less than the door slope, extensions should be installed. You can do without installing them, but then you will have to completely make slopes, and over time chips and dirt appear on them. Therefore, the installation of extensions in such cases is the best way out of the situation.

As extensions, strips of the same color as the door are used, with a thickness of 8 to 12 mm. When fixed, they form a small portal, with edges matching the edges of the wall.

Installation of the add-on is carried out as follows. Using a cutter or chisel, a quarter of 10x10 mm or 8x8 mm is selected in the door frame, depending on the thickness of the trim strips. We do this along the entire outer contour of the door frame. We cut the vertical slats of the extension along the height of the box, as well as the horizontal slat of the extension. We install the door frame in place and fix it, then we install the trim strips in the trimmed quarters. We attach the planks to the slope with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installation of the door frame in the opening

Having completed the assembly of the door frame, we proceed to install it in the doorway.

Fixing the door frame with wedges from above

We put the box inside the opening and fix it with wedges, 2-3 wedges for each rack and 2 for the crossbar. Align the door frame vertically and horizontally. You can adjust the level of inclination with light strokes on the wedges. Now you can fix the box. To do this, we drill holes in the rack and wall with a drill or puncher. It remains to put the dowels and fasten the box with self-tapping screws.

Important! Wedges are best made from wood of the same density as the door frame.

Hanging door leaf

After installing the box, we proceed to hanging the door. First of all, we fasten the loops to the previously prepared places. For this, the so-called card (plate) detachable hinges with a removable rod or a rod embedded in the hinge are usually used. There are also one-piece hinges, but they are used less frequently. In the case of a hinged rod, the door leaf can be installed or removed by just gently lifting it to a small height of the rod. If the design of the door frame does not allow lifting the doors, one-piece hinges or hinges with a removable rod are used. To install one-piece hinges, simply fix them on the box, and then screw them to the door leaf. To install or remove a door leaf from hinges with a removable rod, you need to remove the rod from the hinge and then insert it back.

Now that the hinges are hung, you can put the door leaf in place. It is best to do this together, when one person holds the doors in the air, and the second fixes the one-piece hinges with self-tapping screws or directs them into place in the case of collapsible hinges.

Important! When choosing hinges, you should pay attention to which direction the doors will open.

We fill the gap between the doorway and the frame with mounting foam, which increases the heat and sound insulation of the doorway. This material allows you to fill all the small cracks and crevices. The foam is easy to work with and easy to apply to any surface, and thanks to its astringent properties, the structure will be stronger.

Before filling the gap between the doorway and the door frame, the door frame should be protected from foam accidentally falling on it. To protect the box, it is pasted over with a film or masking tape. If, nevertheless, the foam has got on the door frame, then fresh foam can be cleaned with any alcohol-containing solution or solvent. But the hardened foam can only be removed mechanically, which is fraught with scratches and scuffs.

Mounting foam has the ability to increase in size from 50% to 250%, which can lead to deformation of the door frame. To prevent this from happening, spacers are installed between the vertical posts or thick cardboard is laid between the already installed and tightly closed door leaf and the door frame. Shake the bottle thoroughly for at least one minute before filling with foam. For better adhesion of the foam to the surface, the opening and the outside of the door frame can be slightly moistened with water. The main thing is not to overdo it, otherwise the effect will be exactly the opposite.

For reinsurance against deformation and distortion of the door frame, it is better to apply mounting foam in two stages. For the first run, the foam is applied pointwise. After allowing the foam to harden, after 1-3 hours, you can fill the remaining voids. We cut off the excess mounting foam after it has completely hardened.

Important! In the case when the gap between the opening and the door frame is too narrow, the foam spray tube can be flattened a little, this will make it more convenient, and most importantly, fill all voids with high quality.

If the gap between the doorway and the frame is large, 8-9 cm or more, then we lay the free space with a suitable material (wood, drywall, etc.) and only then fill it with foam.

The vertical gap should be filled with foam, starting from the bottom and gradually moving up. Thus, the foam will create a support for itself. If there are extensions, additional spacers should be installed on them to avoid deformation.

Installation of platbands and door fittings

At the final stage of the door installation, the platbands are installed. First, we cut the platband in height, then we cut the upper edge of the vertical platbands at an angle of 45 degrees. We make the same trimming at 45 degrees for the horizontal casing at both ends. For these operations we use a miter box. You can fix the platband with small nails or universal mounting glue.

Applying glue to the trim

Installing a trim on a door frame

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