Do-it-yourself budget bath: how to build cheaply? Budget bath: how to get noticeable savings without losing comfort.

If you want to have a good time in the country, then you definitely need a bath. A small do-it-yourself bath built on the site will save both money and square meters if you do not have much free space to build a bath. This article will discuss how to design and how to build a small-sized bath with your own hands.

Determining the size of a small bath

The size of the bath should be determined depending on the number of people who will regularly visit it at one time. If your family consists of 2-4 people, then you can get by budget option this building. In this case, the length of the bath will be 6 m, height - 2 m, and width 2.2 m. Inside there should be four separate rooms. Each of them will perform its function, and have a certain size. So, for example, each room will have a certain size. The width according to the size of the bath is 2.2 m, and the length:

• dressing room 1300 mm;
• rest room -2100 mm;
• shower room -1000 mm;
• steam room -1600 mm.

For the steam room and the shower room, it will be necessary to perform separate calculations for the area, because shelves should be placed in the steam room, and a tray in the shower room.

A small bath should be built in the usual sequence. The construction rules for its construction are no different from those according to which other buildings are being built.

Foundation construction

The construction of each building begins with the construction of the foundation. To determine which foundation to lay as the base of the bath, first determine the quality of the soil on which it will be laid. If the soil is hard enough and dry, then you can build a simplified foundation. To do this, lay out flat stones along the intended perimeter. Next, fill the inside of the foundation with similar stones. The cracks should be filled with clay and compacted. Lay a layer of wood beams pre-treated with hot bitumen on top. You can, in fact, not use clay. To do this, you can make a waterproofing layer that will cover the laid out stones.

As a rule, a columnar foundation is predominantly chosen for a bath. For these purposes, you can use a stone, ready concrete pipes, bricks, or asbestos-concrete pipes, the interior of which is filled with concrete.

Another option is to install the bath on wooden, metal or concrete piles. However, in this scenario, you will need to take care of the thermal insulation of the floor.

The strip foundation is the most common and reliable. For its construction, it will be necessary to dig a trench and make a pillow of crushed stone and wet packed sand. After that, the reinforcement should be knitted and poured with concrete mortar. For a waterproofing layer, roofing material can be used.

If the soil is dominated by sand, ground water very high, then to equip the base of the bath should be used reinforced concrete structures block type. For a mini-sized bath, it will be enough to use ten such blocks, the dimensions of which are 20 × 20 × 40 cm.

After the foundation is ready, install the frame of the bath house and erect its walls, then the partitions separating the dressing room. The rest room and shower room should be insulated with a mixture of sawdust and expanded clay. The insulation should be covered with sheets of polystyrene, after which the walls should be sheathed with clapboard. To prevent the penetration of rodents into the bath, expanded clay can be added broken glass. Before laying the lining, it is necessary to carry out heat and vapor barrier, as well as insulate the walls with mineral wool. After that, sheathe them with clapboard.

Walls in the shower room are made of polystyrene or galvanized steel. These materials are more durable than wooden lining, they better tolerate changes in temperature and moisture.

Supply and discharge of water. How to do it right?

If you are equipping a bathhouse for a summer residence, but you do not have pressure water supply, you can organize a gravity water supply. To do this, it is necessary to build a structure that will consist of:

• two galvanized tanks (50 l);
• hose.

Buck with hot water in relation to the cold one, you need to set it half a meter lower. Attach one end of the hose to the bottom of the tank with cold water, and connect the second to the top of the hot water tank. Water circulation will be possible due to the temperature difference in the pipes. To organize the supply of water to the shower, the tanks must be connected with a separate pipe. A mixer is installed at the end of the pipe without fail.

To organize the drainage of water, installation of sewer pipes is carried out, which will drain effluent into a drain pit, previously dug and equipped. For quick gravity descent, the pipes must be laid with a sufficient slope.

Heating system installation

The water in the bath is heated by the stove, which is located in the steam room. In addition, a heater can be used for this, which can be bought at a specialized store.

If you decide to heat the water with a stove, then install a U-shaped pipe at the hottest point of the stove and go around the base of the chimney with it. The water supply must be on the body, and the outlet must be 5 cm above it.

If you decide to use a heating element to heat water, then install it under the cold water tank, connecting it to the system with stainless steel pipes and hoses.

Lighting and ventilation device

In a small bath, ventilation is simply arranged. To do this, on the wall opposite the front door, make a hole that will be easy to open and close with a damper.

To organize lighting in a small bath, it will be enough to install several halogen lamps with a heat-resistant housing. Use a small transformer to reduce the voltage from 220V to 12V. Now your little bath is ready!

Features of a single outdoor mini-bath

To assemble a bath for one person, you will need to purchase light insulated panels, which are a frame of beams sheathed with thin boards. The standard frame size is 185 × 60 cm. This will require a beam, the cross section of which is 1–1.5 cm and 3 × 6 cm. To insulate the bath and provide vapor barrier, fill the panels with mineral wool or foam. From the inside, the material is sheathed with a special foil made of aluminum and polyethylene film. Concerning outside, then it is covered with glassine or roofing material. The panel can be sewn up with clapboard.

In one of the panels, you should make a door measuring 160 × 60 cm. Install in it small window preferably with double glazing. The bath must be airtight, door locks at the bottom and at the top ensure this. At the bottom of one of the panels, on the side where the heater will be installed, make air vent with a stub.

To build a single bath, you need to assemble the structure and, most importantly, ensure its thermal and waterproofing.

For the construction of a steam room with an area of ​​​​1.8 × 1.3 m, you will need 10 panels on the walls and 2 on the roof. Fill the seams with batting and close them with wooden planks on both sides. To protect the ceiling from atmospheric precipitation, cover it from the street with a triple layer of roofing material. If you use the bath in the warm season and only, then the floor should not be insulated. If you plan to use the bath all year round, fill in the strip foundation and insulate it. To heat the steam room up to 90°C, you can use an electric stove closed type having a power of 3 kW. Place a metal bucket with stones on the stove and turn it on for several hours. Then proceed to the bath procedures.

Small indoor bath

You can also equip a small steam room in the house, for example, in the bathroom. It is possible to implement this in two ways. In the first case, you will need to install a removable shelf on two bars. From the floor, the height should be no more than one meter. The bars are fixed to the wall with reliable anchors. Above the bath, the height of the shelf should be between 400–600 mm.

To climb the shelf, it will be necessary to make several steps or a ladder, using rubber thrust pads. Tie the ladder to the shelf with twine. The width of the shelf must be 600 mm. Such a steam room is heated by an electric stove. It can be installed on a special stand, for example, above the washbasin. Use a metal basin or bucket as a heater, which should be filled with stones and placed on the stove.

In another option, make a sit-down steam room on the bath. It will be closed with removable wooden shields. The shelf will be used as a seat, and you can lean on strong shields with your feet. To make the room remind you of a bath, sheathe the walls and ceiling above the bathroom with clapboard or install removable shields. They can be installed and removed without much effort. Heating in progress electric stove with a container of hot stones placed on it.

Choose your version of a small bath, plan your actions and get started!

Video

Sauna minimum dimensions built in full size Part 2 \ Sauna is small

A photo

Not everyone has the desire and ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bath. And in most of our country, warming up at times is simply necessary. The only way out is to build a bath inexpensively, with your own hands. There is a sufficient amount of building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but free-standing baths, then the frame and monolithic are considered the most budgetary technologies. Cheap baths are often made on a wooden frame, sheathed with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Inside, between the two skins, a heater is laid.

One of the options for the frame structure - with board sheathing

In monolithic construction, arbolite is the most popular for the construction of baths - a mixture of cement with sawdust. Sawdust can be generally free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit hard. A removable formwork is placed along the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and it is rammed. The next batch is being mixed. It's that simple. Flammability is considered a disadvantage of this material, but wooden and frame baths are also combustible. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete is a warm, natural material that consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water.

Polystyrene concrete (granular foam mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - foam plastic - in the construction of a bath. However, in itself, this material allows you to get a cheap and light building, which, with the right finish, will only please the owners.

All three technologies give a combination of low price and good thermal performance, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions where timber is still the cheapest material. In them, perhaps, it will be cheaper to put a chopped bath. From round timber or from a bar - this is already optional. The advantage of this solution is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemistry in order to maintain its appearance and protect it from diseases and insects). But chopped baths have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are erected and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin warming and Finishing work. The second disadvantage is that it needs to be updated regularly. protective covering, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But the wooden baths themselves are very good with a special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive walling technology is far from everything. Sometimes the construction of the foundation takes almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technologies listed above are good because you can make lightweight foundations for them. Somewhere it is enough columnar, somewhere pile or pile-grillage. Any of the above walls can coexist quite normally with them, leveling their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage different points supports).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a shallow or normal strip foundation may be required, and on especially heaving or unstable soils, a monolithic slab may be required. On such grounds, building blocks can be added to the wall construction technologies listed above - foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (basically, thorough protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although the foundations are required to be more solid.

Compact or temporary

If in the country you want to build a mini-bath, a very small booth, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If there is a desire, even an ordinary construction trailer, a barn or change house can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate well and put the right stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bath in stages - photo report

The initial data are as follows: a bath in terms of no more than 4 * 5 meters, a small budget - no more than $ 200-300 per month. From the initial data - clay heaving soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Bringing it all together, it was decided to build a frame bath on a columnar foundation.

The bath itself turned out to be 5 * 3 m, plus a terrace 1 meter wide along the long side. Under the bath, it was decided to make pillars from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, under a terrace of 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We dig in below the freezing depth - for this region it is 140 cm. By the way, we cut pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bath is 20 cm above the ground.

Inside each column, a frame of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed. 4 rods are connected, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can safely weld then the strapping.

Concrete was ordered ready, brand M250. A formwork was put up along the perimeter between the pillars and a boat was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the bath floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete gained enough strength, work continued. A harness was welded from a corner 70 * 70 mm with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the pillars and metal, we weld the reinforcement outlets to the shelves of the corner.

It must be said right away that in terms of bearing capacity, this foundation is redundant. On it you can build a two-story heavy building, and not a light one-story frame. But, since they did it “for themselves”, and there is also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

It was decided to make warm floors in the washing and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself, without soaring, and doing it on a warm floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, a heater (polystyrene foam) was laid on the draft floor, waterproofing, a reinforcing mesh were laid on top, pipes were tied to it, and all this economy was filled with concrete. Under the stove, of course, the warm floor was not poured.

A week later, when the concrete gained enough strength (they didn’t cover it, but watered it regularly), work began on the construction of the frame. For the racks, a beam of 150 * 150 mm was used, spacers - a board of 50 * 150 mm (again, a solid margin of safety, but this is from the desire to build a good bath).

The bathhouse was built mostly alone, therefore a consistent installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then - in those places where door-windows will be installed or piers will adjoin. If, as a result, somewhere there are gaps greater than 1 meter, additional racks are placed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of a very powerful beam, they did not install intermediate ones, and the structure was given rigidity by slopes.

Further, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on the head, they began to manufacture the roof of the bath. It is made the most budgetary - single-sided, with a minimum rise - 15 °. To ensure this slope, the timber for the racks was pre-made in different lengths.

A board of the upper trim is nailed to the racks at the same level, they are attached to it ceiling beams. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. From above, a continuous crate is stuffed under the roofing material.

Shed roof truss system is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the OSB walls were sheathed, and then the floor was laid on the rest of the bath.

The next step is laying the oven. This is a long process - it took a whole month. The stove is stacked with a closed heater. In the zone of formation of the chimney, a cast-iron box is built into which stones are placed. A door leads to the heater, which opens into the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for underfloor heating (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, because there are two modes of operation - summer without floor heating, and winter, with the “turning on” of the register heating. Transfer from one mode to another - with the help of a valve.

This is followed by finishing work, and they will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in "cold rooms" is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling - 150 mm. The steam room on top of the insulation is also sheathed with foil on kraft paper.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are sheathed with OSB, cork is glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued on the OSB, the “dry” part is upholstered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washroom - dry area and shower room

In the steam room, first, a crate for lining with a clapboard is stuffed, then a wide clapboard. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two are accommodated comfortably, three are already more difficult, but also quite convenient. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly "in one hand". Assistants were only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they should be 100% vertical).

Video example of the construction of a bath from a monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive do-it-yourself bath 3 * 6 - step by step photos

The log for the future bath was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains, it dried for about 5 months. The building will consist of two halves: a steam room and a sink made of logs, and a rest room on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3 * 3 m. Construction began with a markup: in terms of 6 * 3.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep, expose the formwork. The width of the tape is taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors - from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side, and lining on the other. About how to do

In this form, we leave to winter - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building, we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to make a budget filing of the ceiling - to fill short boards between the rafters. They can be bought quite cheaply. We process, cut the desired length. We fill the supporting bars on the rafters, to which we knock the boards cut to size from below.

Outside, the yuan was sheathed with siding - both the frame part and the log cabin. It turned out to be far from ideal. And between the siding and the wall there is a ventilation gap, so there are no problems with removing moisture.

Do-it-yourself budget bath - one more inexpensive solution- siding trim

Started on interior trim. We stuff the crate, lining on it.

Inside the rest room sheathed clapboard

We turn to the finishing of the steam room. First, cover everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated glass door, and washing zones. In the washing wall, we will sheathe it with moisture-resistant drywall, on which we will then glue the tiles, and in the steam room - with clapboard.

We sheathe the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for the installation of the furnace. She will be heated from the rest room, and her “body” will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the oven, install it. We cover the fuel outlet with fireclay bricks.

We tile the sink.

Everything about the main work, the decor and all sorts of things remained - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the “stuffing.

When designing baths, many factors should be taken into account - from location to area. Financial opportunities also play a significant role, if the bath is planned primarily as a place for family recreation, then it is not necessary to build a palace.

For full functioning, 2-3 rooms are enough - a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. The last two rooms are sometimes combined into one in order to save space.

Small bathroom layout

In an effort to reduce the area occupied by the bath, do not be too zealous - there are certain standards. So in the steam room two people should fit freely, given that they use brooms. If it is very crowded, then the pleasure of going to the bath is unlikely to be obtained.

Features of the layout of the bath with a small area

Small log bath

The layout of a small bath begins with the choice of material for its construction - it can be a log, timber, brick or foam blocks. Wooden structure the most preferable, as it breathes easily and freely, the balance between humidity and high air temperature is naturally maintained.

What should be paid special attention to:

• Foundation - the weight of the structure does not require the construction of a powerful foundation, the best way- strip or pile foundation. Under them will not have to carry out significant earthworks;
• The convenient location of the rooms inside - this will facilitate the process of visiting the bath itself, and preparing for it;
• It is advisable to install the stove in a dressing room so that it is possible to melt it without interfering with the others to go to the steam room or washing room. The firebox must be protected from the possibility of arbitrary ignition;
• An important point is ventilation. It is carried out through windows and doors. It is better to give preference to wooden window structures - it is environmentally friendly. pure material emitting a pleasant fragrance. In addition, it is a source of natural air exchange;
• Small baths are built according to the same rules as their large-scale counterparts - shelves are located along a blank wall, door threshold high and the box is low. This is important so that less steam comes out when opened;
• There should be no locks, and all doors in the bathhouse open outwards.

The useful area of ​​the bath cannot be less than 10 square meters. meters, otherwise it will be impossible to bathe in it, and wash comfortably.

Comfortable sauna layout for two people

Bath project from 3 rooms

It is not always possible to build a spacious bathhouse and you have to be content with modest dimensions. But even if two people cannot be in the steam room at the same time, then the presence of a separate washing room will allow the facility to be used for its intended purpose.

Competent design of the interior space makes it functional:

• Dressing room - the area will be 2.7 square meters. meters. It can be used both as a dressing room and as a rest room. But its main purpose is to prevent the penetration of cold air;
• The plan of a small bath necessarily includes a washing room - an area of ​​\u200b\u200b1.7 square meters. meters. There are two options - install a shower or equip a simple shower. The second is to put stools and basins, and pour water into them from a tank located behind the stove. With such a volume, you can fit everything you need in it. It will be heated by a stove chimney;
• And the most main room- steam room. Its area is 1.14 sq. meters. The heater is placed in a corner, so it will give off some of the heat from the washing room. It will not be possible to place a sunbed, so you will have to bathe on a stool or bench.

Note! If a bathroom or shower is not provided in a residential building, then a small bath is an excellent way out. She combines the pleasant with the useful.

The project of a small bath from two rooms

A small frame bath from a bar

If there is no desire to huddle in tiny rooms, then by combining the steam room and washing room, you can get a good result. The external size of the bath can be 3.6 * 2 meters - this is quite enough.

How to build a small bathhouse with your own hands on a land plot, this is possible only if you have a carefully thought-out project:

• Dressing room with with total area 2.4 sq. meters - here you can already turn around. Dimensions allow you to put a tiny table at which it is pleasant to drink tea. The role of the locker room remains;
• The steam room and washing room are combined, and a room of 3 square meters is obtained. meters. The shower will have to be sacrificed, but now there will be a full-fledged sunbed and a bench for washing. Basins with water are placed on it. Excess moisture from the shower is not needed, it will make the air heavier and make it difficult to breathe.

In order not to reduce the benefits of bath procedures in this project, the following instruction must be observed:

• Put a more powerful stove that can heat two rooms at once;
• Do not spray water over the steam room - this will increase the humidity;
• Bathing procedures begin with a steam room, and only then proceed to washing.

Photo of a small bathhouse on the lake

In both layout options, the door should open outward, and the building itself is installed no less than 5-10 meters from the capital house. This is mandatory requirements fire safety. The ceilings in the bath should not be made more than 2.2 meters, and door frame more than 1.5 meters. Otherwise, it will not keep warm.

The stove can be any - electric, wood or gas. But the latter is not very desirable. Electric is easy to install, it is easier to control the temperature level with it.

But the best of all is wood burning. It creates a unique spirit and aroma of the bath.

Price wood stove not so high

Bath - the dream of almost every owner of a suburban area. But not always the size of the site allows you to build a large and spacious structure, and then you have to be content with the small. But this does not make the bath less functional.

With the right approach to planning, it turns out to be useful and convenient. The video in this article will talk in more detail about small baths and their benefits.

Small bathhouse: how to build with your own hands, layout, video instruction, plan, photo and price

How to build a 3 × 3 bath with your own hands

The primary task facing every owner suburban area- this is the construction of a small bathhouse, located near country house. In our article, we will talk about how to build a 3 × 3 bath with your own hands, which would fit perfectly into the space of a small household plot.

The starting material used for the construction of such a structure is most often a traditional wood beam. For those wishing to deviate from established traditions, such common Construction Materials, like brick, silicate and foam blocks or natural (artificial) stone.

Structural features

The 3×3 m bath is a small one-story building that can accommodate 2–3 people inside at a time. His effective area usually does not exceed 8‒8.5 m² and is distributed as follows:

Note that the dressing room in such a bath is also used as a rest room. Despite the limited size of the room, it is usually possible to place a small table and 2-3 benches in it. The table can be made folding, which allows you to maximize the space in the dressing room during the kindling of the stove and cleaning the room.

When choosing the design of a bath building, one should not exclude from consideration the option of a small-sized structure, which is simply attached to the main residential building.

From what to build a bath?

The simplest and cheapest way to make a wooden bath from a bar is to use a standard frame structure installed on a lightweight tape-type foundation.

A bathhouse made of traditional “round timber”, which is well-sanded and selected according to a suitable diameter, also looks good. As a heater in these structures, forest moss is usually used, which is laid between individual crowns.

In addition to timber and round timber, profiled or glued timber can be used to equip the bath. In any case, the material you choose must be well dried (that is, subjected to a shrinkage procedure in advance). Thanks to this, you can begin to operate the bath building immediately after finishing it.

Note! When erecting a structure made of brick or stone, the strip foundation for the bath must be designed for a large load.

Work procedure

The construction of a bath from the material of your choice is carried out, as a rule, in the following order:

Foundation preparation

Basically, the type of foundation is not a whim of the customer, but is selected based on many factors. Often, a pile or column foundation is made for the construction of a bath. In some cases it may be necessary to make slab foundation. We will consider only one type of foundation, which is more versatile and applicable in most cases.

The strip foundation for a log house from a three-meter beam is made shallow, which is also acceptable when using rounded logs. The order of its preparation is as follows:

1. First, a square of appropriate dimensions is marked out, after which trenches 10–15 cm wide are dug to a depth exceeding the soil freezing mark.
2. The bottom of the dug trench is covered with a layer of sand about 15 cm thick, which is then spilled with water and thoroughly compacted. At the end of tamping, the bottom of the trench is covered with rubble, after which it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of the formwork, assembled from an ordinary unedged board.
3. Imported or self-made formwork is poured into the finished formwork concrete mix, which should include moisture resistant cement.
4. The foundation is waterproofed using a suitable roll material (roofing material, for example).

Walling

When assembling a box of 100 × 100 bars for lower rims it is desirable to use larch or aspen blanks with a larger cross section (150 × 150 cm, for example). The base frame is attached to the foundation by means of special plates, the counterpart of which is fixed on the lower beam of the frame.

The erection of the foundation is carried out by one of known ways, involving the use of the method of joining beams (logs). With the relative lightness of three-meter bars, the assembly of the frame is most often done manually and without assistants.

For reliable connection of the crowns to each other (without gaps), pre-prepared wooden dowels and a special jute sealant are used.

Roof, ceiling and floor manufacturing

When arranging a roof for a 3 × 3 meter bath, preference is usually given to one of the simplest structures: single-pitched or gable. The optimal angle of inclination of the roof is selected taking into account the brand of material used as roofing (for these purposes, inexpensive roofing material or slate is most often used). You can get acquainted with a sample of the arrangement of the roof in the photo located at the end of the article.

At the next stage of work, a ceiling is mounted, made in the form of a flooring, laid directly on the walls of the building. The flooring is fixed on special logs placed directly on the foundation.

Interior decoration of the building

Before finishing the bath, the walls and ceiling of the building are reliably insulated; wherein Special attention given to a couples room. To finish it, it is advisable to use natural types of insulating material (mineral wool, for example), followed by applying a layer of foil to it. Note that the foil in this case is used as a reflector capable of retaining heat inside the steam room.

At the end of the installation of insulation and foil, the walls and ceiling of the room are sheathed with clapboard made from special types of wood (linden or aspen).

As for the dressing room, it is not at all necessary to use expensive materials for its decoration; the walls of this room can simply be impregnated with special waterproof varnishes that perfectly emphasize the texture of wood.

How to build a 3 × 3 bath with your own hands - building a small bath

Learn how to build a 3×3 bathhouse with your own hands. The article describes how and from what materials to build such a small bath.

Small do-it-yourself bath

A small do-it-yourself bath is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the cottage is limited. In addition, with such a solution, you can significantly save the budget, but as a result, get a full-fledged vacation spot that will not only allow you to relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a good time with family and friends.

Project examples

Ideally, the bath includes 4 rooms in its design:

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of the stay is not lost. The overall size of the building will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

• 1.20 mx2.50 m Very compact solution. In this case, the bath consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m × 1.50 m, the second - 1 m × 1.20 m. There is no rest room, and you can change clothes in the dressing room. Washing can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
• 2.50 m × 2.50 m. By the number of rooms - like the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m × 1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m × 2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can easily fit.
• 3 m × 3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If there is a desire that three people fit in the steam room, then it can be made 3 m × 1.50 m in size, the washing room can be made separate by placing a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there remains a space that can be used as a rest room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
• 4 m × 3 m. In this case, 4 m 2 can be separated for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, 2 m × 3 m remains for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can easily fit. They will be able to stay in the steam room at the same time, as well as enjoy communication in the dressing room.
• 4 m × 4 m. In such a territory it is already possible to turn around well. The steam room can be left 2 m × 2 m in size. Make a separate dressing room 2 m × 1.50 m in size. In this case, the relaxation room is 4 m × 2 m (one of the sides will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room, for this an electric boiler and a shower cubicle are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the rooms within the available limits. You may want to make the steam room smaller, as there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Choosing a material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on which project you have chosen, as well as the planned amount of money. For example, you can use an ordinary brick. How to build a brick bath, you can read here. In this case, the following points will be positive:

• availability;
• ease of delivery;
• relative ease of construction;
• long service life (with proper care- up to 150 years);
• ease of maintenance;
• the possibility of combining with the main structure;
• when using a new brick, there is no need for cladding;
• freedom to choose the form of construction.

The negative aspects include:

• the high cost of the material;
• the need for good ventilation, tk. brick has poor vapor conductivity;
• kindling such a bath takes more time than wooden buildings;
• high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

• light weight with large size;
• high laying speed;
• ease of fitting block shapes;
• good thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• excellent sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• subject to the recommendations - a small consumption of glue.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

• uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
• shrinkage may occur within a few months;
• poor bending stability.

The most favorite way of manufacturing is rounded logs. There is a lot to be said about its benefits, here are just a few:

• high environmental friendliness;
• pleasant appearance;
• low heat capacity;
• no need for interior and exterior decoration;
• nice interior atmosphere.

The negative side is:

• unprofitable to use in small buildings;
• some complexity of construction;
• the high cost of the material;
• long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. This method will require minimal building skills. The advantages are:

• no need for a massive foundation;
• availability of materials;
• relatively low cost compared to other options;
• ease of care;
• very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• seismic resistance;
• no shrinkage.

Of the minuses, one can note the need for good sound insulation. High level booming - the transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to take care of good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case when a really small bath is planned, it makes no sense to sink the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you don’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of foundation will be relevant for any of the listed building options.

• The first thing to do is to clearly define the territory that will be allocated for construction.
• The next step is to clean up the debris. In addition, you will need to remove the top layer of soil with grass to make it easier for you to carry out further tasks.
• With the help of pegs, the boundaries of the future building are marked.
• Special holders are made to make it easier to navigate with excavation. To do this, two pieces of a board 50 × 50 cm (or whatever is at hand) are sharpened on one side and connected using a transverse crossbar from a board 10 cm wide, its length should be about 70 cm. Such structures will need 8 pieces. They are installed two at each corner of the house. Between them, two fishing lines are stretched to the width of the future foundation. Be sure to check that all angles correspond to the value of 90 °. Thus, clearly defined lines are obtained, which will be difficult to move, even hitting them.

At the stage of laying the foundation, the necessary communications are provided. It could be plumbing sewer drain for washing water.

pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored and driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcing rods are lowered, and the entire space is poured with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are immediately clogged. Most suitable options for a small bath will be screw. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades, which contribute to the immersion of the supports into the ground. You can buy them or make your own. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

• The first step is to find out how deep the soil freezes. To do this, you can contact the appropriate service.
• Pipe blanks with a diameter of 110 mm are purchased. Its wall thickness should be more than 3 mm. The total length should be such that it can be drowned below the freezing level by 50 cm and at the same time, so that it is 30–40 cm above the ground. Additionally, you can buy blanks for screws. It is also necessary to make a square hat on the pile. It should be 25 x 25 cm in size and 5-6 mm thick.

In each of the options described, separate support elements for the stove should also be provided, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can damage the floor and lag.

Building brick walls

For a bath, it is better to use a red brick that has passed heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the amount required material, you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200beach wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone brick. The area of ​​the masonry seams can be neglected, because you still need to make a reserve in case of a fight or marriage.

The wall can be built using several methods:

• in two bricks with external insulation.
• with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
• with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is important process, because it is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To maintain the vertical level of future walls, two are dug in at the corners. metal profiles 5 × 5 cm and a length equal to the height of future walls. They are leveled and secured with braces. Between them, a fishing line is stretched to the height of one row. After it is laid, the fishing line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20–25 mm. It must be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using bubble level. If the second and third type of masonry is chosen, then it is necessary to provide a dressing between the two walls. This is ensured by the transverse laying of two bricks opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should go with an offset of half a brick, so that the overall weave of the entire plane is ensured.

A lintel must be installed above windows or doorways. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can buy it ready-made or fill it directly on the spot. It should go beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed, a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them are reinforcement bars, which should also go beyond the opening by 25 cm, while it is better to bend them in order to intertwine with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete solidification (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general principle of laying will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start from the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made of profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

• In order to achieve the best adhesion, the row-base is laid on a cement mortar. The ratio with sand is better to make 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
• All other rows are fixed with special glue.
• The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
• Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to give additional rigidity.
• Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
• Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

It is this option that pops up in the imagination when it comes to the bath. For its manufacture, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make from this material outer wall. Because the design is small, it is good if the partitions are frame.

After the construction of the walls is completed, the primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply hammered into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation has been erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is performed according to the example of the grillage, which was mentioned above. For corner posts we need exactly the same beam as for the base. In addition, it will be necessary to stock up on an edged board with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5–10 cm.

• At the base, it is imperative to check the diagonals so that they are the same. It is attached to the concrete foundation with anchor bolts. It is desirable to drown the head. To do this, a groove-potai is made in advance. Under the grillage, on a concrete foundation, waterproofing from bikrost or roofing material is laid.

Roof erection

For small buildings ideal solution will shed roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, then in the case of a wall made of bricks and foam blocks, waterproofing from bikrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base with anchor bolts or walled studs. Beams are laid on top, on which the crate will be stuffed. They can be fixed to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another version, the walls are made the same. Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat. On one of the sides, vertical boards are installed that will form a pediment; rafter legs to another wall. At the junction with the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. Fastened with metal corners. To make it easier to support the roof in one plane, two extreme elements are first installed. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the ceiling beams from above. In this role, dense foil can act. Insulation is placed in the space between the beams in the form mineral wool. Additionally, it closes plastic wrap. From the inside, filing is done using a wooden lining or a polished edged board.

finish line

An integral part of each bath is a stove. You can make your own from sheet material or metal pipe large diameter. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up a large space. For small space it is better to use electrical options, which are purchased ready-made.

Shelves are mounted inside the steam room. It's best not to use it conifers wood, because when heated, it may release resin, which will cause burns. Good material for her there will be aspen, larch, linden or oak. With a small space, a width of 40 cm will suffice, it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fixing material must be recessed flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the whole structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, a double-braided cable must be used. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually there is a prefix “ng” in the marking). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. Switches are not mounted in the steam room itself. Luminaires are used waterproof with index IP68.

Take care of good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with an output to the gable through the roof. This will be enough for all the moisture to be removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build a small bath from. Choose the option that best suits you.

A small do-it-yourself bath - how to build

This article tells you how to build a small-sized bath. Learn more about preferred materials, sizes and more.

From what and how to build a simple bath in the country?

Washing in a country bath is a pleasure available to everyone. Its construction does not require large financial investments. In the minimum layout, such a structure is being built in a few days.

In this article we will consider the topic of how to build the simplest bath in the country quickly and inexpensively.

Let's start by studying ready-made options, we will discuss the designs of walls, floors, stoves and sewers that are popular among masters.

Design features

The main conditions for the comfort of any bath are:

• Walls, floor and ceiling well protected from heat loss.
• Reliable isolation of structures from water and steam.
• Compact fast heating oven.
• Efficient sewerage and ventilation.

Examples of country baths

In photo No. 1 we see the simplest bath, reminiscent of a barrel of Diogenes. You can only steam in it. It will not be possible to wash here, because there is no sewerage in the building. However, if desired, it is easy to do. To do this, you need to install a standard shower tray in the corner of the bath and remove drain pipe into a septic tank.

An important advantage of this design is its low weight, which allows it to be placed on a wooden terrace.

The device of the simplest bath from the container category is shown in photo No. 2.

It consists of one steam room. For washing, the owner needs to attach a canopy with outdoor shower or supplement the room with sewage, and the stove with a tank for heating water.

Improvising on the theme of a barrel-shaped bath, let's pay attention to cellular polycarbonate. It can be quickly and easily assembled original design. In order for it to keep heat well, you will need two large sheets of this material and a frame made of metal or wooden bars. Between them, a mineral wool insulation, 10 cm thick, is laid.

The ends of the structure can be made of boards by stuffing them onto a wooden insulated frame. Put such a bath anywhere: in the country, on a polar ice floe or on the top of Everest, and you will always be comfortable in her steam room (photo No. 5).

A small Russian bathhouse made from timber scraps can be installed on oak posts. We see an example of such a structure in photo No. 6.

Larger structures need their own foundation. There are three options here:

1. Concrete tape.
2. Brick pillars.
3. Piles from asbestos-cement pipes.

Do not forget that the type of foundation affects the choice of material and the design of the walls. Pile and column foundations are used for installation wooden frame, as well as for baths made of timber or logs (photos No. 7 and No. 8).

The “tape” of rubble concrete is suitable for any walls (from gas silicate blocks, logs and frame).

A cheap, reliable and simple version of the bath is obtained using a technology called "clay". For such a structure, you will need a little: a firewood truck, a cart of straw and a clay dump truck (photo No. 10).

The best shape of a wood-burning structure is round. It eliminates the need to reinforce the masonry corners, looks aesthetically pleasing and original.

Borrowing from birds the technology of building nests from branches and clay, you can build just such a simple and warm bathhouse (photo No. 11).

Recommendations for the choice of finishes, insulation, sewerage, floor, roof and stove

For exterior finish frame bath We can recommend the following materials:

• Wooden blockhouse.
• Metal tile or profiled sheet.
• plastic siding.
• Cement particle board (DSP).
• OSB board.
• Flat slate.

As a heater, it is best to use ecowool. It does not accumulate moisture, does not rot and does not burn. If there is no ecowool in your area, then you can buy a regular mineral insulation in the form of a semi-rigid plate. It is easily and simply placed in the gaps between the racks of the frame.

To protect the mineral wool from water vapor and reduce heat loss, the walls are lined with sheets of foil polyethylene. After that, a frame of slats is attached to them and trimmed with wood: alder, linden or pine clapboard (photo No. 13).

We do not recommend installing OSB board indoors. This material releases toxic gases when exposed to high temperatures.

Variants of steam and heat insulation of the walls of the frame structure, as well as a bath built from blocks or logs, are shown in Figure No. 1.

Building a simple do-it-yourself bath includes a sewer. It can be made from standard plastic pipes, derived in cesspool or drainage well.

The water intake funnel is placed in the center or in the corner of the room, and the floor is made in the form of expanded clay concrete screed with a slope towards the drain. Before concreting, it is necessary to compact the soil and cover it with several layers of waterproofing. Wood flooring is a great option, but in a bath it rots quickly and needs to be replaced. Instead, we recommend making gratings from wooden slats and lay them on a concrete screed. After washing, they can be removed, taken outside and dried.

The design of the bath ceiling is standard. First, a vapor barrier film is “shooted” to the rafters and counter-rails (3x4 cm) are stuffed. They fix the lining of the lining. The gaps between the rafters are filled with insulation and covered with a roofing film. It protects it from weathering and atmospheric moisture (Fig. No. 2).

A counter-lattice is stuffed onto the film, creating a ventilated gap between the roof and the insulation. The work on the installation of the ceiling and roof is being completed by installing the main crate and laying roofing material(slate or metal tiles).

The main "detail" of any country bath is a stove. It should provide rapid heating of the air and maintain a high temperature. The metal stove heats up the fastest.

To accumulate heat and create steam, it must be equipped with a compartment for stones. There are a lot of options for stoves for simple baths, so we will not dwell on them in detail. Let's just say that the simplest heat generator can be made from steel pipe large diameter, old gas cylinder or barrel (photo No. 15). Another easy-to-use material - steel sheet 3-5 mm thick (photo No. 16).

Mastering the simplest tricks welding work, you without outside help you can assemble such a structure.

A simple do-it-yourself bath - options and features of construction

Options for simple baths from various materials, photos of examples and their description. Recommendations for the construction of a simple bathhouse in the country with your own hands.

Many residents of Tatarstan dream of their own bathhouse. We have already written how to go to the bathhouse correctly and how much benefit it brings, it's time to talk about construction. It would seem that there is nothing easier than finding a contractor and ordering this service. But not everyone has enough money to make their dreams come true. When you take out a loan, you have to repay it. Therefore, we decided to show in practice how you can save money when building a bath. We will not describe the construction process in detail, you can read about it in our next articles. We will write how to save!

Save on foundation

For any bath you need a foundation - a foundation. How to save on it? To begin with, you need to decide what main types of foundation exist:

• Support-columnar
• pile
• Tape from blocks
• Tape filler

Support-columnar foundation

The cheapest type of foundation is the columnar foundation. As a rule, it is used in baths with a low total weight: frame and bar. Each support is made of cement blocks 20x20x40, which are laid out around the perimeter every 2 meters. Let's say for a bath of 12 sq.m. 9 such supports are needed. Each support contains 4 blocks, it turns out 4x9 = 36 blocks. The price of a concrete block is about 50 rubles apiece. The total amount for blocks 36x50 = 1.800 rubles. Do not forget about cement and 1 ton of sand. Total for a columnar foundation for a bath of 12 sq.m. accounts for no more than 3,000 rubles. Agree, if you do it yourself, it turns out not so expensive. But there are pitfalls here.

Firstly, it is the need for good soil, its composition must be saturated with sand, so that after the winter your bath does not move from its place. Secondly, the need for floor insulation. Since the bath uses a lot of water, you need to properly organize the drain. And it is good to waterproof the floor insulation. And this is an additional expense.

pile foundation

Today, the construction of the foundation on screw piles is gaining momentum. The price of such a foundation is no lower than the usual tape one, but expediency is sometimes on the face. It is often used in wetlands or on large slopes. Yes, if you cannot do without this foundation, then you will have to take screw piles. But how can you save money here? Only for installation. Installation screw piles it's not a tricky thing that almost anyone can handle. Just watch this video:

Tape from blocks

One of the most common types of foundation, this foundation is perfect for light structures. The total cost for the same bath is 12 sq.m. does not exceed 6,000 rubles. But most importantly, there is no need to insulate the floors in the bath. This will significantly reduce construction costs.

When choosing this type of foundation, do not forget about the sand cushion.

Tape shallow foundation

Perhaps the most suitable type of foundation is a tape filler. Its superiority over the others is undeniable. Let's not talk about all its merits. Let's talk about how to save money when building it. To do this, you can use our video:

When choosing the type of foundation, weigh the pros and cons, then your bath will delight you for a very long time!

What is cheaper to build a bath

There are a lot of materials for building walls for a bath, we will not talk about all the variety. Let's talk about which one is cheaper. In our opinion, the most inexpensive are: timber, wood concrete, insulated frame.

bar

One of the most inexpensive materials is timber. If you plan to use the bath only in summer and autumn, then a bar with a wall thickness of 100 mm is enough for you. But do not forget about the pins, install them at least 1 meter apart. For our bath of 12 sq.m. you will need 62 bars, which is equivalent to 25,000 rubles, plus interventional insulation and dowels here, we get: 29,000 rubles. It is also worth noting that by buying from the manufacturer, you can bring these costs up to 25,000 rubles.

Arbolit

To build a wood concrete bath, you will need 20 bags of cement, 2 carts of sawdust, a lot of water, 3 tons of sand, 1 cubic meter. lumber and a lot of time. When pouring a sawdust-concrete bath, you need to wait at least 2-3 days, then rearrange the formwork. But it's worth it. The cost of building such walls will not exceed 15,000 rubles! Although here it is necessary to take into account the interior decoration of the walls, at least the steam room and the washing room, because the wood concrete is afraid of water. Then the cost of the walls rises to 20,000 rubles. You can see more about the construction of a arbolite bath in this video:

Insulated frame

Another type of inexpensive walls can be an insulated frame. Here you will need 3 cubic meters. wooden materials and a layer of insulation. Again, for summer use, a wall thickness of 10 cm is sufficient. If ecowool is used as a heater, then the price of walls for a frame bath will not exceed 24,000 rubles.

Did you know that ecowool does not burn, and using it to build a bath is safe.

We make the floor in the bath inexpensively

How to make a floor in the bath? schemes on the internet a large number of. Our proposal is reduced to a double floor. Its basis is a 7 cm concrete base poured onto the drain. Under which there is necessarily an embankment of river sand 15 cm. Mesh slats are laid on top of the concrete. More precisely, the flooring is made of thin boards, which can be easily lifted and moved. Such a floor will serve you for a long time, as you can often ventilate it. Let's calculate what price this will "poll out" for our 3x4 bath: 1 bag of cement, 1 ton of river sand, 1 ton of OPGS and 0.3 cubic meters. tree. TOTAL: no more than 3,500 rubles. Quite inexpensive, right?

How to cheapen the ceiling

You can’t save much on the ceiling, but there are still some tricks. You can choose boards with a thickness of 15 mm - this is euro lining. Practice has shown us that such ceilings do not last long and are subject to deformation. The lining bends and it dries out a lot. Therefore, the company "Your Bath" does not recommend using it as ceilings for a bath! The minimum thickness of the ceilings should be 30 mm, then you can save on insulation. Long time leaves and earth mixed with sand served as insulation for the ceilings in the bath. Baths in our villages are still insulated in this way. It's cheap and high quality! You can also inexpensively insulate the ceiling with woodworking waste - dry sawdust, they are great as a heater! Then, to install the ceiling for a bath of 12 sq.m, you need only 17 tongue-and-groove boards, which is about 5,000 rubles.

Before filling the insulation on the ceiling, do not forget to lay tarred paper or glassine.

Do-it-yourself doors and windows

In order to save windows in the bath, you can not do it at all. But the doors to our bathhouse need 2 pieces. Of course, you can make the doors yourself. Then we need 5 tongue-and-groove boards and 2 bars 50x100 mm, in which case the cost of the doors will be 2,000 rubles. But for this you will have to acquire special knowledge.

We make the roof right and cheap

To save on the construction of a roof for a bath, you need to decide on the design. will be the most economical flat roof. On its frame you need 0.7 cubic meters. lumber, and this is about 4,000 rubles. What to use as a roof? Of course, it will be inexpensive to use roofing material in two layers with waterproofing of the seams, but such a roof will last no more than 3-4 years, then its profitability is questioned. Besides Fire safety such a roof is also not up to par. We recommend using corrugated board. In order to save a little on it, we suggest going to the factory and "digging" in their out of condition. As a rule, they have it in abundance and they sell it at a discount of up to 50%. Do not be afraid of this word, you can also choose a decent quality. Sometimes there is just a small dent in the sheet of corrugated board, which does not affect the quality in any way. For a 4 by 3 bath, you will need 4 sheets 4 meters long. Then you need only 1,800 rubles. And so Total for the roof we get: 4.000 + 1.800 + 1.000 (nails, screws, etc.) = 6.800 rubles.

Buying an inexpensive stove

For construction summer bath 12 sq.m. you will need a 15 cubic meter oven. Here, everyone can save in their own way. But if you don’t have welders you know who will make a furnace for you at a discount, you will have to buy it in a store. We bought the most inexpensive stove in Kazan with a tank of 60 liters of hot water for 13,300 rubles. In order not to advertise anyone, we advise you to simply walk through most places in the city and choose the cheapest stove. The main thing to note is that the thickness of the iron on burnout is at least 6 mm, otherwise you will not use the furnace for very long.

Now let's sum up

We take the most inexpensive components and get: 6,000 rubles (foundation) + 20,000 rubles (arbolite walls) + 8,500 rubles (floors and ceilings) + 6,800 rubles 9roof) + 13,300 rubles oven + 2,000 rubles (2 doors - with your own hands) 10,000 rubles (related expenses: delivery, nails, screws, etc.) = 66.600 rubles! Construction price in 2014.

That's all the expenses!

I hope our article is useful to you, and you can build a bath cheaply with your own hands! But if you don’t have the energy and time to build, then take a look at this inexpensive bath project:

All the best to you and a light couple for you!

It is difficult to imagine a summer cottage without an indispensable attribute - a hot bathhouse that raises vitality aromas of birch broom and eucalyptus steam. Bath procedures cure many diseases, relieve stress and provide an opportunity to spiritually communicate with loved ones. So, whatever one may say, one cannot do without it, dear. The topic of our study is a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos, important nuances and the invaluable experience of practitioners - all this is in this material.

Read in the article

What is the basis for choosing the optimal place for the construction of a bath

Perhaps for someone it will be news that the bath can not be placed anywhere. There are many official and practical principles which should be adhered to. Moreover, the wrong choice of location can lead to sad consequences. Let's look at all the rules.

The location of the bath at their summer cottage

In the layout of the location of the bath complex on garden plot there are three main requirements:

Distance from the boundary of the plot	The distance from the bath complex to - at least three meters. The building should not obscure the territory of the neighboring site. Such a gap will protect the buildings from a possible fire, because the bath is a fire hazardous object. Another important aspect is drainage. A three-meter zone, even if your bath has the most primitive drainage system, will not allow dirty water to penetrate into an adjacent area. For reliability, you can lay along the fence filled with gravel. And a couple more significant points: the distance to the neighbors' residential building should be at least eight meters (six - if the bath is brick). When deciding where to build an object, keep in mind that the smoke from the sauna stove should not reach the windows of the neighbor's house.
Distance to the reservoir	On the one hand, the location of the building on the banks of a river or lake is very advantageous. And it is easier to get water, and pleasure is guaranteed after a steam room with a running start to dive into the cool waves. On the other hand, one should strictly follow the rules that keep the reservoir from negative impact Wastewater. To do this, the building should be located no closer than 15 meters from the shore. This distance, moreover, will protect the foundation of the structure from being washed away in the flood. The coastline should be strengthened with your own hands using wooden or concrete frames.
Gap to residential building	The Russian bath on the "black" is located on the leeward side of the house at a distance of at least twelve meters. So smoke will not enter the rooms. It is desirable that there are no other flammable structures near the building. Experts recommend keeping a four-meter distance to or barn.

Take note:

There are situations when with the purchase suburban area the bath goes, as they say, by inheritance. In this case, of course, it is not always possible to move it to a new location in accordance with the above rules. But, with the help of competent reconstruction, fire safety standards can be achieved.

How to attach a bath to the house without damaging the main structure

Not always the size of the site allows you to meet all of the above requirements. There is only one way out - to attach a bath complex directly to the house. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of such a solution:

• land area savings;
• in winter, it is more convenient to use a home bath, since there is no need to go outside;
• you can save a lot on the insulation of the structure, since one wall will be internal;
• you can use a common heating and water supply system.

• there may be difficulties with connecting the building. Special measures will be required when building a foundation and connecting wall planes;
• combining the drainage system can lead to an excessive load on the local sewer;
• the fire hazard of the object poses a certain threat to a residential building.

But it should be noted that it is easy to slip on the tile, and in the steam room the ceramics heat up quickly, so you can’t enter it barefoot.

It remains to solve the issue of water supply. In a separate building, it is better to conduct water supply underground, in a protected housing. If your area has severe winters, it is worth considering heating the water supply to prevent emergencies. How to install such a system, photo reports will tell you, which are not difficult to find on the net.

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