How to build log houses. Log houses and baths

Often, people who live in an area with round timber available for sale have an idea to build a house on their own: all the more so since until recently almost all peasants owned this wisdom, not knowing a single letter, not owning construction technology. Building a log house with your own hands is not a great science, but it still requires a deep understanding of the process and the ability to adapt old carpentry technologies to new conditions.

Materials and tools for building a log house

We are in a hurry to dissuade people who want to put up a log house, using modern power tools to save time. Unfortunately, the use of chainsaws and electric planes is not recommended, they can only be used for heavy work. Wood treated with power tools is more susceptible to mold and decay processes. For the construction of log cabins, a special carpentry set is used.
To work, in addition to axes, you will need a standard planer (as well as a sherhebel planer for finishing work) and a scraper (for removing the bark), there are also a number of additional carpentry tool for cutting into a cup. To excavate the longitudinal groove, an adze is used - an ax with a rounded blade and an inverted ax handle. When processing wood with a hand tool, wood pores are naturally clogged, as a result, a hand-cut house will last much longer.

Carpenter's ax and its features: where to order and how to make

A round timber house is chopped with several types of axes, professional cutters order axes for cutting houses to order from high-quality hardened steel. In the very simple version we recommend stocking up with an ax for rough cutting, which without the weight of the ax handle should carry about 1.6 kg, have a sharpening angle of 25 degrees, for convenience, use the length of the ax handle 60 cm. And the second ax is used for fine cutting with higher accuracy, such a model will have an angle sharpening 20 degrees, weight 0.9 kg and an ax handle up to 50 cm long.

Many artels in their work use a restoration and carpentry ax, which was restored and made on the basis of old samples by A.V. Popov. There are many modifications of it, which are made by Popov himself. Approximately 90% of carpentry felling can be done with this tool. Popov's ax has a wedge-shaped shape, in fact, this ax is a half-cleaver, since its tasks include not only cutting, but also removing chips during operation. This requirement is achieved with a special tool shape.

High-quality axes for cutting log cabins are produced by a number of Russian forges. One of the most curious is "ToporSib". In this artel, you can purchase all the necessary tools for felling a log house in the form of ready-made sets.

Selection and preparation of logs for the construction of a log house

For the construction of a log house, a round timber is required. The thickness of the frame is selected based on the availability of materials. Usually, a house made of round timber is cut with your own hands from affordable and inexpensive materials. In Russian conditions we are talking about the pine tree. There are 4 grades of round timber available for sale, experts recommend the 2nd grade:

Grade 1: butt part, without knots, used for high-quality woodwork;
Grade 2: assortment from the middle and butt of a pine trunk, there is a small number of knots and cracks;
Grade 3: round timber with large quantity knots;
Grade 4: wood with any flaws, except for rot.

Pine for the construction of a log house is chosen for budget reasons, in addition, this wood is soft and pliable in processing, has a small number of knots, does not require additional processing, the trunk run-off (difference in diameter) usually does not exceed 1 cm. Pine does not crack as much as spruce in processing, but has softness, so for the lower logs, which are closer to the ground, larch or oak is recommended. In this case, the salary crown can be made of pine, but its diameter should be 5-7 cm larger than the main log. In some cases, a high foundation can save from ground moisture.
Only fresh wood is used for felling a log house, ideally a log cabin is cut in the forest, where you can pick up material, and then transported to the installation site. Fresh material should be stored for no more than 2 weeks, for storage on the construction site, the round is stacked. For northern regions with temperatures reaching -40C in winter period, logs with a diameter of 21-24 cm are used, for middle lane 15-18 cm is enough.

Project

When building a house, it is better to start with small forms of buildings, for example, build a gazebo or a log cabin with a rest room and a bedroom. You can live in such a house before the construction of the main house, and then use it as a guest house. Usually a forest of maximum length is ordered, while you can make accurate calculations, based on the presence of windows, doors, piers and select logs at the sawmill according to the required size.
In order to successfully and quickly build a house for yourself, it is better to hire an artel that is engaged in wooden construction, at least for the summer. This will help you understand the main points of manual felling of log cabins.

Foundation works: in the old days and now

The foundation for a wooden frame is made using tape technology or stone. The higher the foundation, the better wood will be protected from ground moisture. A house made of round timber can be installed on a columnar and pile foundation. In the old days, the first rows of logs, the so-called uterine crown, were installed on stone shafts, they were called ryazhe. Such a decision made it possible to raise the house above the ground and firmly fix it.

We cut a log house with our own hands

Before starting work, prepare additional devices. First of all, the substrates for holding the logs, the fixation of the round timber is provided by cut wedges. Next, you need to prepare logs in size:

when cutting a log house “in the paw”, the logs are prepared according to the design dimensions of the house;
when cutting "into a bowl" 60 cm more.

Next, with the help of a scraper, the bark is removed from the trees, the log can be brought to a smooth state with a planer, but since the top layer of wood will be removed, the log must be treated with an antiseptic solution or tar oil.

At the next stage, the cutting of the obkladny crown is carried out with the help of log trimming. On the one hand, you should get a perfectly flat surface that will be in contact with the foundation. Next, a harness is constructed, done without special work do-it-yourself log house in a bowl, other technologies require skill.
Here is how to make a log house with your own hands video:

The algorithm for cutting a longitudinal groove can be different; professional craftsmen make it manually. A small graphic instruction will help beginners.

Logging can be carried out in a bowl, as well as using a number of other methods, which are illustrated in the figure.

Please note that there are Russian and Canadian felling technologies. The Canadian way of felling log cabins is better designed for log shrinkage and guarantees better thermal insulation.

Conclusion

Cutting a log house with your own hands is a very real goal, as a result of which you will become the owner of a beautiful and warm home. Building a wooden house will cost you relatively inexpensively, as labor-intensive processes will be carried out independently. The house will delight with its appearance, as well as create a healthy atmosphere inside due to the aroma of pine resins. The key advantage of this construction technology is the fact that you can cut down a wooden house at any time of the year. When using high-quality old wood, such a house will last at least 100 years.

Houses made of chopped logs traditionally take pride of place in low-rise construction. Proven for centuries, the classics of house building have many advantages over other materials, since they are optimal for living in our climate, durable and environmentally friendly. The level of comfort modern construction corresponds to a city apartment, and at a price such a structure is cheaper than a similar area in multi-apartment buildings. Do not forget about aesthetics, as each log house is unique and looks great without additional exterior decoration.

The company "Vitoslavitsa" is pleased to offer you to order the construction of a log house in Moscow. We have been helping our clients to realize the dream of their own suburban housing for more than 5 years, and during this time we have managed to get an impeccable reputation and numerous thanks from customers.

Our specialists can create cozy and durable housing with original design in the best Russian traditions, able to satisfy even outstanding aesthetic and operational requirements.

The popularity of log houses

Chopped log is one of the most popular materials for the construction of low-rise buildings, and its popularity is due to the provision of a number of undeniable advantages to the finished structure, including:

Durability. Main advantage this material due to the peculiarity of the processing technology - cutting and planing are carried out manually, due to which the structure of the wood is not disturbed, and the protective layer remains intact. This allows the logs to provide increased resistance to mechanical damage, moisture, temperature changes, ultraviolet rays and other troubles prepared by the environment and climatic conditions.
Beautiful appearance. In addition to the fact that the projects of log houses developed by us are distinguished by their excellent design, the material itself has a high aesthetic component: wood patterns created by nature itself become the final decorative touch of the overall composition.
Environmental friendliness. Wood is an organic, environmentally friendly material. This feature allows you to live in houses made of chopped logs, not only without fear for health, but even with benefit. The fact is that the northern pine used in our production is rich in tree resins and phytoncides, which prevent the formation of pathogens. The specific smell of pine, which creates a wonderful natural atmosphere, is also worth mentioning.
All season comfort. A chopped log has high thermal insulation characteristics, is able to accumulate heat, and also provides efficient oxygen circulation and moisture stabilization, thanks to which a wonderful microclimate is achieved in the room, regardless of the time of year.
Availability. Building from chopped logs does not require the construction of expensive varieties of foundations, and the wood itself is relatively cheap.

The construction of houses from chopped logs begins with the choice of a contractor, and you should pay attention to whether he has own production. This guarantees the proper quality of wood, proven processing technology and timely delivery of the log house. Realizing your dream, you can use the proposed projects or order your own development option, while specifying the type of wood and the method of manual felling. The process of manual felling is quite complex and time-consuming, it consists of several stages:

The construction of log houses involves the following steps:

Design work;
Foundation laying;
The beginning of the assembly of the log house and the installation of floor coverings;
Complete assembly of the log house;
Installation of floors of the second floor (if the project provides for such a number of storeys);
Arrangement truss system;
Flooring insulating materials and arrangement of roof ventilation;
Roofing;
Grinding of external and internal walls;
Installation of window and doorways;
Work on engineering communications;
Facade and interior decoration at the request of the client.

Initially, wood of a similar diameter is selected, which should ensure evenness and visual appeal of the assembly. This time-consuming process is necessary because properly selected logs contribute to uniform shrinkage, and make hand-cut houses durable and strong. Special attention required when selecting large diameter trees that are unique in their own right. This version of the log house requires a lot of experience, knowledge and skill. Projects of log houses made of logs of large diameter (up to 1 meter) are real works of wooden architecture and are carried out by high-class professionals.

The selected logs are skinned and planed strictly according to the technology, then felling is carried out using one of the selected methods: "in the paw", "in the bowl", by the Canadian or other method. The last step is external processing, which allows you to maintain the attractiveness of the structure and significantly increase performance.

Prices for the construction of houses from chopped logs on a turn-key basis

The cost of building an object depends on many factors that are negotiated at the conclusion of the contract. The price for turnkey chopped log house projects varies in a wide range: from standard variant economy class to an exclusive building made of elite wood on an individual order. The main factors affecting the construction estimate:

the complexity of the project;
building area and number of storeys;
wood type;
felling type;
exterior finish.

When drawing up a project estimate for a house made of hand-cut logs, the cost of the truss system, installation of floor and ceiling beams is taken into account. At the request of the customer, a foundation can be erected, subject to all technological requirements, and engineering work can be carried out. Having received a detailed consultation, you can always choose the optimal price-quality ratio and get what you want.

Advantages of ordering log house projects from us

Large selection - we can offer you as a realization finished projects chopped wooden houses from logs, as well as an individual approach. The creative approach of our designers and the high qualification of engineers will ensure the uniqueness of your home.
High quality materials - we produce building material in accordance with the requirements of GOST, using advanced technologies and the experience of our specialists, which allows us to guarantee the quality of the result.
Favorable prices - thanks to our own production base and well-established logistics, we are able to offer you great houses at an attractive price.

In this article: history of log cabins; stages of creating a log house; wall cutting methods; the pros and cons of log cabins; how to choose logs for a log house; common mistakes allowed when creating a log house.

Against the background of modern construction technologies, log houses for many look like archaism, a kind of symbol of the century before last, when there were simply no other methods and building materials. Meanwhile, houses, which are based on a log house, have a number of advantages that are inaccessible to buildings made of brick and reinforced concrete, not only in terms of the cost of construction work, but also in household, in other words, associated with living in these buildings.

History of log houses

Log houses are traditional for Russia - for many centuries the population of Russia used just such housing, especially since it was not necessary to go far for building material, because the forests began immediately outside the outskirts settlements. The history of the Russian log house begins in the distant VIII century, when Russia first became an independent state.

In those days, only princes lived in log "high" mansions, the main population managed with a smoked half-house-half-dugout - about 2/3 of the house fell on a pit dug in the ground, on top of which logs were laid in four rows. There were no doors in such a semi-dugout, their role was played by a meter-high hole covered with a canopy, the hearth in such a house was not equipped with an exhaust pipe - its role was played by the door opening. There was also no flooring, there was only an earthen floor, repeatedly doused with water and tamped down. It should be noted that such semi-dugout chicken huts simultaneously served as a barn for cattle, especially those that brought offspring. Centuries later, the design of the dugout, heated according to the "black", was somewhat improved - small holes appeared in the walls to remove smoke, then they were replaced by a smoke hole in the roof.

The next improvement transformed the chicken "black" hut into a "white" one - the stove was equipped with a chimney, so soot and soot no longer deposited on the walls of the "white" hut. However, the modernization of the Russian hut stopped there for many years, and until the 19th century, semi-dugout chicken huts were invariably popular, and equipping the stove with a chimney was considered superfluous, because it “left heat” through it.

Around the 15th century, the first huts appeared with flooring made of split logs or boards and with windows - all these elements of the interior decoration of a Russian hut were considered a sign of exceptional wealth. 90% of other huts did without windows and any floor covering in general - trodden ground, no more.

How were log huts built? Larch and pine went to the walls and roof, the roof was created from lighter spruce. The trees were prepared in advance and the bark was partially removed from the selected trunks with an ax - it was not completely removed, leaving stripes between the notches to preserve the movement of juices and good resin extraction. After 4-5 years, the tarred trunks were chopped, and they did it only late autumn or in winter, before the lengthening of daylight hours - it was believed that cutting trunks closer to spring would cause them to rot.

The chopped hut was created with the help of only one carpentry tool - an ax. Saws invented around the 10th century were not popular when creating a log house, according to the builders, the saws tore the fibers of the wood, opening them to water and causing decay, while the ax sealed the fibers - hence the name “chopped hut”. Due to rotting, metal nails were not popular either - wooden wedges were used if necessary.

The log hut did not have a foundation as such, often a log house was simply placed on the ground - such houses were called sewn houses. In rare cases, the logs of the lower crown were laid in the corners and in the middle of each wall on a stone row made of large boulders, sometimes larch trunks, called "chairs", were used instead of stones.

The roof over the chopped hut was placed “male” - without nails, log trunks were laid over each end wall, the size of which decreased as it approached the top point of the roof. “Males” in Russia were called short logs, from which the base of the roof was laid out, on which then the poles of the dolniks or, otherwise, lay down, the ends of which wound up between the “male” logs. The roof was covered with straw sheaves or aspen shingles, in rare cases - with boards, which were boards obtained from logs by splitting and wedging.

Black log cabins were built in Russia until the 19th century, and only in St. Petersburg, at the behest of Tsar Peter I, it was forbidden to build them from the 18th century.

felling

Work on creating a log house begins with the preparation of logs - both coniferous and hardwood forests are suitable, but it is best to put a log house made of pine or spruce. Birch is the least suitable for a log house - walls made of birch trunks will quickly rot. The ideal time of the year for logging, contrary to popular belief, is summer, because it is in the middle of it that the sapwood moisture content is the lowest, respectively, the felled logs will deform and dry out much less during subsequent drying. For cutting a log house, the first part of the tree trunk is chosen - the butt, which should be straight, without knots, the maximum taper (gradual reduction in trunk diameter from the butt to the top) should not exceed 10 mm per linear meter. It is not necessary to specially dry the tree trunks, freshly cut in the winter, intended for a log house - they are debarked, the logs are checked for the absence of fungal infections and traces of the vital activity of wood-boring beetles, after which a log house can be cut from them. As for the drying of logs, it will be much better if they dry, being laid in the structure of the log house, so they will be led less.

The design of any frame can be divided into three parts - the main frame (lower, approximately 4-5 crowns), the middle part (6 or more crowns) and the upper part of the frame (roof). The main log cabin consists of logs of the overhead crown and the lower trim, they are the thickest - with a diameter of 300 to 500 mm. In the creation of the main frame, larch and pine logs are used, their diameter is larger than the diameter of the logs of the crowns following them by about 50 mm. The logs of the middle part of the log house (window and window sills) have a diameter of about 200-400 mm. Top part includes rafters and verandah poles, the diameter of which is from 100 mm and from 200 mm, respectively.

If the dimensions of the log house in terms of plan are not too large, then it is most convenient to assemble each of the parts of the log house separately on a flat piece of land - it will not be easy to adjust their elements at a certain height. The marking of the main frame is carried out at the site of the actual construction of the building - if the foundation for the future building has already been completed, this will simplify its assembly. For the correct construction of the log house “on the ground”, a strong, non-stretching twine or cord is used - the starting point is marked, from which, by measuring the distance and marking it on the cord (with a knotted marker), the remaining points are set, each of them is marked with a driven peg. After marking, the diagonals are carefully verified - the maximum error is 30 mm. The role of the foundation for the log house can be performed by barked aspen chocks with a length of about 1000 mm and a diameter of 300 mm or more, driven under the girders of the main log house (in the center of the overlay crowns) and at its corners. The installation of aspen chocks is carried out strictly according to the level with a maximum error of 50 mm.

For laying the overlay (first) crown, it is required to apply a piping on one of its sides, which, after installation on linings or foundations, will face the ground with its edged side. To do this, vertical lines are marked on the end sides of the log along which the edging will be cut - first you need to securely fasten the log on the chocks substituted under it with metal brackets. The marking of the edge is made with the help of a cord fixed on the log with the brackets of the mounting stapler or several awls with the transfer of the cutting line to the log with colored crayons. This operation is repeated on the reverse side of the log, after which the log is unfastened and turned with the marked side up, then again fastened with staples to the chocks placed under it perpendicular to the trunk. To make it more convenient to cut the edging (its width is usually 100 mm), it is necessary to position the marked area not strictly horizontally, but at a slight angle. Then an ax is used - at approximately the same intervals, notches are applied to the trunk, after which the edging is extruded.

Each of the three parts of the log house is assembled separately “on the ground”, while the diagonals and angles are carefully verified. During the assembly process, it is imperative to observe the alternation of logs according to the “butt-top” principle, the crowns should be adjusted to each other as tightly as possible. It is equally important to take into account that all tree trunks are curved due to the effect of wind load, therefore it is required to lay them with the convex side up - the mass of logs laid on top will straighten out this curvature. If the laying is done differently, then the walls of the log house will be in ledges and depressions, which will require their additional lining with clapboard or board. You should pay attention to the location of the annual rings of logs - by placing the trunks with wider "southern" annual rings inside the premises, and narrow "northern" ones outside, you can significantly reduce the heat loss of the house. The reason is simple - the wood on the "north" side of the trees is always denser than on their "south" side.

After all three parts of the log house are assembled and checked for errors, they are disassembled into elements, marking on each log its place in the structure in order to prevent errors when assembling a complete log house.

The next operation is putting the log house on the foundation. During assembly, the grooves between the crowns are sealed with moss, felt or linen tow, jute insulation is also used. If the log house is not going to dry on the foundation (for example, the foundation is supposed to be laid after drying), then it is not necessary to produce caulking (put insulation in the grooves between the crowns), because the log house will have to be disassembled and assembled again to put it on the foundation. The finished log house is aged for one year without any finishing for natural shrinkage of tree trunks and sealing of the groove insulation, its roof is covered with a moisture-proof material (for example, roofing felt) for this period. The shrinkage of the log house at the end of drying will be from 1/20 (if the logs were cut in winter) to 1/30 (in the case of assembly from "summer" wood), i.e. shrinkage of winter wood will be greater. Wood shrinkage should be taken into account during assembly by increasing the height of flows in a log house made of raw wood by 150-200 mm, doorways by 50-80 mm, and window openings and veranda pillars by 40-60 mm.

Logging wall cutting methods

Consider the most popular of them - traditionally Russian in the oblo (in the bowl) and in the paw (dovetail), as well as the Canadian cabin and the Norwegian cabin (carriage).

Cutting into oblo (the name of the method comes from the old Russian “obly” - “round”). Log cabins made by this method have characteristic log protrusions at the corners - the crowns in them extend beyond the boundaries of the walls by 250-300 mm, which reduces the internal area of the house by 500 mm on each of its sides due to the partial withdrawal of the original length of the logs to the outside. The shape of the groove when cutting into the oblo is a semi-oval with a width of 150-200 mm. The depth of the groove should be such that each top log with a cupped corner notch cut into it rises above lower crown at a distance approximately equal to its radius. It was allowed to place the edges of the groove bowl both up and down, however, when they were turned down, the crowns were more protected from atmospheric moisture penetrating into the grooves. During the installation of a log with a groove in the oblo, a sealant (moss, tow, etc.) was placed on the lower crown along the entire length of the latter, and only then the installation was carried out.

For greater stability, the rows of crowns are connected to each other with wooden spikes-pins of a round or rectangular section- the length of such spikes is usually 120 mm, the thickness and width of the dowels of rectangular section is from 50 to 70 mm, the diameter of round ones is from 250 to 300 mm. They are made from dry wood of ash, oak or beech, the installation step of the dowels is from 1.5 to 2 m, each extreme one is driven in at a distance of 200 mm from each corner, the installation is carried out using a sledgehammer into pre-prepared holes of the appropriate diameter. The depth of each hole is made 10 mm more than the length of the spike, which completely eliminates the possibility of a stop of the driven dowel in the bottom of the hole and the displacement of the crown.

The disadvantages of felling in oblo are considered to be excessive consumption of wood due to protruding logs at the corners, and difficulties that arise in the implementation of the external cladding of the log house. However, the protrusions of the logs provide good protection corners of the building, and the log structure itself has excellent stability.

Cutting in the paw. Technologically, it is more complex than in oblo - highly skilled carpenters are required, tk. errors in the preparation of crown joints will inevitably lead to the formation of many gaps, which are practically impossible to seal with high quality. Such a felling of the walls allows more economical use of wood - the crowns at the corners of the log house do not protrude. There are two ways to make a joint in a paw: with plug-in spikes and with indigenous ones, i.e. neatly carved on the logs during their edging.

Work on the installation of the walls of the log house begins with the sorting of logs and determining one, whose diameter in the top cut is the smallest. This log will be the first to be edged, which will become the reference when marking other logs. The walls of a log cabin chopped into a paw are usually made flat from the inside, otherwise the edging in the corners will be striking, so the preparation of the crown begins with the edging of the edging along the entire length of the log on the side that will be facing the inside of the house. After its execution, on the opposite side of the log, a short edging is cut out to a length approximately equal to two diameters of the future crown. On the two remaining sides of the end, short edges are hewn - about the diameter of the log in length. To simplify the marking and making the connection in the paw on the crowns, a special template is used - a square inscribed in a circle with markings applied to its sides.

The prepared crowns are assembled on the site outside the foundation, they are adjusted, after which the “rough” frame is left to dry, which takes about a year. Caulking and fixing with plug-in spikes is performed at the end of shrinkage, during assembly on the foundation.

The advantage of connecting the rims into a paw lies in the alternate slopes of the edges from the lower and upper sides of the ends of the log, which completely eliminates the curvature of the joints during the drying process. For better insulation of the corners of such a log house, it is recommended to install a heater from their outer side, then overlap with a board.

Canadian cup. With the outwardly constructive similarity of the method of Canadian felling with felling in oblo, the difference is significant - careful fitting of the rims ensures the almost complete absence of gaps, the bowl is trapezoidal in shape. The tape seal is laid in a special channel between the logs, it is absolutely invisible from the outside, due to which it is not moistened during precipitation and does not cause rotting of the crowns.

Special devices for marking allow not only to fit the logs tightly, but also to preserve their natural lines without sapwood (the outer tarred layer of a tree trunk, about 30-50 mm thick), which, according to a common but rather controversial opinion, ensures long term felling service.

Norwegian felling (carriage). First of all, it is worth noting that the common name for this method “lafet” does not at all reflect the essence of felling and, apparently, owes its origin to the Norwegian word “lafteverk”, which means “log cabin” in translation.

Now about the felling technique itself - to create a log house, a log with two full edges on opposite sides is used, i.e. sill. For crowns according to the Norwegian cutting method, logs with a diameter of 400-500 mm are required - their upper cut must have a diameter 1.5 times the thickness of the interlock, otherwise it will be difficult to fully complete it. Gusset The “Norwegian castle” is a wedge-shaped notch, vaguely resembling a saddle; an adze is used for its tesa - an ax, the blade of which is located perpendicular to the handle. At the bottom of the "castle" a secret spike is made, under which a secret groove is created in each higher crown - the groove-thorn connection gives the log structure greater rigidity.

In log cabins made using the Norwegian felling method, gables and internal partitions are made in the same way. outer walls, at the heart of the roof structure are powerful slegs that hold the traditional for Norway.

The significant diameter of the crowns provides fewer grooves between them, thereby reducing the threat of blowing, and the considerable width of the wedge-shaped lock allows you to put a significant amount of sealant into it. Shrinkage of wood in a Norwegian felling increases the quality of wedging, i.e. strengthens its structure.

In contrast to the Russian methods of felling in the field and in the paw, Canadian and Norwegian felling do not require repeated caulking of the log house at the end of the drying period of the wood.

Characteristics of log cabins

In our century, the number of building materials of truly natural origin is drastically reduced and log houses, formed only by scaffolding without any additional impregnation and improvements, remain the same as hundreds of years ago. Therefore, the main trump card of wooden log cabins is their true environmental friendliness - the residents in such a house will always be surrounded by the atmosphere of the forest. And now consider the operational characteristics of log houses.

Log cabins pluses:

strength (with static bending 71.8 MPa);
low thermal conductivity (0.15 W / (m∙K)), respectively, saving heating costs in the cold season;
high seismic resistance provided by the integral structure of the log house;
construction is cheaper than from any other materials. The reason for this is that there is no need to produce any additional external and interior decoration;
the walls of the house act as a natural air conditioner, absorbing excess moisture and returning it back when the air is too dry;
the constant presence of phytoncides in the atmosphere of the house, disinfecting the air from pathogens.

Cons of log cabins:

wood shrinkage period, which takes about a year, the need to perform repeated caulking at the end of it;
fire hazard and susceptibility to decay, which requires the treatment of crown logs with antiseptic and refractory compounds;
handmade requiring high professionalism of performers.
Here it would be appropriate to compare a rounded and manually processed log:
the rounded log does not have a drive, as it is turned on the machine. A hand-cut log will always have a drive, so its installation is done with the convex side up;
grooves in rounded logs (usually in a log) are machined to fit a log house of a specific layout; the assembly of such crowns does not require special professionalism. High-quality felling of a log cabin by hand can only be done by experienced carpenters with the necessary skills and tools, especially when creating Canadian and Norwegian log cabins;
a rounded log is more expensive than a regular log, but its installation is much cheaper and in a shorter time;
the largest diameter of a rounded log is 300 mm, during processing up to standard size Not only the bark and bast, but also a significant part of the sapwood to the core are cut from the logs by machines, while the strength characteristics and resistance to decay increase, since the core wood is denser than the sapwood wood. A hand-cut log cannot be of a standard diameter, as each tree trunk is individual, during its processing the sapwood is practically not damaged, due to which the diameter will be larger than that of a rounded one.

Rounded logs after machining and turning cupped grooves are processed antiseptic formulations, after the installation of the log house, the processing is carried out again. It should be noted that at the end of the shrinkage and shrinkage of the log house from the rounded log, the surface of the crowns will not be smooth - after drying, a lot of tiny wood fibers will rise, damaged as a result of turning with a cutter, and they will have to be upset by applying a layer of colorless varnish. In this case, the wood of varnished crowns will somewhat lose the function of absorbing moisture, i.e. her ability to "condition" the air would be seriously weakened.

How to choose a forest for a log house

Main structural material, from which log cabins are cut, is a combat pine aged 120 years and above, and the highest quality wood is from pines from the northern regions of Russia - Karelian, Angarsk and Arkhangelsk. The reasons for the greater strength of the northern pine are in the harsh conditions of its growth. Frosty and long winters, dry and short summers in northern climatic zones do not allow the tree to grow thick annual rings, as in pines from more southern latitudes - the distance between the annual rings of northern pines does not exceed 2-3 mm, while trees growing to the south grow up to 10 mm per calendar year. The thicker the annual rings on the pine cut, the more loose its wood, respectively, such a log is less durable, cracks significantly during shrinkage, and has a greater percentage of shrinkage. Shrinkage of logs of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris L), depending on the area of growth, is as follows: Arkhangelsk, Angarsk and Karelian pine - no more than 4%; Vologda and Kirov - up to 6%; Kostroma - about 7%; Yaroslavl, Tver and Smolensk - about 10%.

The quality of wood, and hence the durability of the log house, depends not only on the area where the pine grows, but also on the specific conditions in which the tree grew. The wood of pine growing on dry low-grade hills is dense and small-layered, has a rich dark red or yellow-red color of the core - this is Kondo pine, which is a valuable building material. If the pine grew on fertile soils and did not experience a lack of moisture, then its wood is more loose and coarse-grained, and the core has a pale yellow color, then this is a pine pine and its mechanical characteristics are significantly inferior to the wood of kondo pine. For cutting a log house, only condo pine is required.

The optimal thickness of the logs from which a log house should be created is related to the climatic conditions at the site of the future operation of the log house. If the largest negative temperatures winter season in this area reach 30 ° C, then the diameter of the crowns of a residential log house in the upper cut should be at least 240 mm, outbuildings- not less than 200 mm. Of course, the future owner of the house can purchase logs of a larger diameter, thereby increasing the heat resistance of the walls of the log house, but this will increase construction costs, because. may require the involvement of additional construction equipment, for example, a crane. In addition, the larger the diameter of the log, the longer the log house will have to withstand shrinkage, one year may not be enough for this.

The established opinion about the greater suitability of pine felled in winter for felling a log house does not stand up scientific approach. According to their research, the moisture content of the most valuable part of pine wood - a dense core - is practically unchanged during the calendar year, its average value is 33%. But the moisture content of young and less dense cells of the pine trunk, which form sapwood (its average moisture content is 112%), increases significantly from November to February and is the lowest from July to August, i.e. the results of the research showed completely opposite results to popular rumor. The most probable reasons that made winter-cut pine “better” than summer-cut pine are: in winter, the volume of agricultural work of peasants decreased to a minimum, there was excess time for harvesting logs; transportation of timber by sledges over snow made it possible to produce it directly through arable land, but in the summer it was necessary to carry carts around, and wheeled carts took less load than sledges with skids.

You can find out which - winter or summer - forest you are offered or from which forest a finished log house was created in the following ways:

the presence of bark fragments on a debarked log means with a high probability that it was cut down in winter. In frosts, it is extremely difficult to completely remove the bark on the trunk;
a few months after felling, the sapwood of pines cut down in winter begins to turn blue under the influence of fungi and heat. If blue is found in the initial stage on the outer layers of the debarked log, it is removed by grinding and using antiseptics with bleaches, but individual blue areas can be detected and examined;
yellowish-brown or gray wood also indicates long-term storage, color changes in this case occur due to exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation and the action of the fungus. Since winter-cut pine has a high sapwood moisture, fungal cultures infect it faster than less wet summer-cut pine. Dry wood is not subject to color changes due to the activity of the fungus, because. dry wood is not affected by it;
winter wood contains a large amount of starch, which trees begin to accumulate in July. In the cold season, starch is used as a nutrient medium, being gradually decomposed into oils and sugars. If you put a drop of iodine on a debarked log and it clearly turns blue in the area of application, this pine tree was cut down in winter.

When choosing logs for a log house or examining a finished log house, you need to pay attention to the absence of multiple small holes, the presence of which indicates damage to the wood by a grinder beetle or bark beetle - in no case do not purchase such a log, otherwise all the wood of the log house will be infected with insects, get rid of from which it will be impossible!

The presence of deep cracks with a width of 10 mm or more means that the wood has been subjected to accelerated drying or has been exposed to sunlight for a long time - this is a marriage.

The most common mistakes when felling a log house

The elements of this wooden building are assembled exclusively by a groove connection, only wooden wedges are allowed - there should not be any metal when mounting the crowns. Metal nails or staples must not be used, as the wood in the places of their driving will certainly rot.

Until the log house shrinks, no work is done on sheathing the walls, ceiling and terrace, flooring, otherwise after six months the sheathed log house will have to be disassembled and the groove joints redone due to distortions and cracks, and part of the crowns must be replaced due to the appearance of mold and fungus due to lack of ventilation behind the sheathed sections of the log house.

At the end of the shrinkage period of the log house, it is required to shorten the terrace posts or knock out the pieces of boards from under them that were substituted during the creation of the log house. And only after that you can sheathe the terrace.

Before installing window blocks in the openings prepared for them, it is required to install a jamb block there, the thickness of each of the four elements of which is at least 100 mm. It will not be enough to install only window blocks of a standard thickness of 50-60 mm - the gradual shrinkage of the log house will continue for several more years, the frames of the window blocks will be damaged, and will also cause displacement of the crowns and exposure of cracks.

Abdyuzhanov Rustam, rmnt.ru

The first thing you need to learn is the professional language that carpenters speak and that we will communicate with you throughout the book. So let's start with terminology.

It is known that the house should stand on the foundation, and you should start from it, but this is a slightly different topic, therefore, instead of the foundation, temporary linings are shown in the figure 1. When the opportunity arises (even after a few years), they will not prevent you from starting a permanent foundation .

A log house is a log building without a floor, a batten or a roof, that is, the main structural part of the house. It consists of several crowns, the number of which determines the height of the frame. The crown is a rectangular structure consisting of perpendicularly laid logs, fastened together at the corners by a lock joint.

The first crown of the log house is the flashing crown 2, the second and main one is the lower trim 3, into which the logs 4 are cut. The logs tighten the lower trim and carry the floor, and the flashing crown serves to strengthen the lower trim and protects it from decay. Over time, it can be replaced. Crowns from bottom trim to start window opening are called window sills 5. Next come the window crowns 6, then the window crowns. The first crown crown is the closing crown 7. The structure that serves as the basis for the roof is called the upper trim. It consists of two upper runs 8 and rafters 9. What is rafters 10 and corner veranda pillars 11 is clear from the figure.

Let's agree to call the logs in the crowns, lying perpendicular to the girders, transverse, and the crowns, in which there are window or door openings, - split. The logs that form the openings are called "shorty". They can be of various lengths depending on the location of windows and doors.

Traditionally, as a log house was being built in Russia, logs were processed at a height. In some films, you probably saw how a carpenter, sitting astride a log, famously and quickly wields an ax. Let's take a closer look at what operations it performs. First of all, he needs to drag the prepared log up. Then, having made the markup, make a felling along it and lay the log in the place determined for it. Agree, such work at height requires great qualifications and skill. You, as a novice carpenter, are unlikely to be able to process the log with the required accuracy the first time. Surely you will have to repeatedly remove and re-lay the log, adjusting it in place. The slightest carelessness in such manipulations leads to injury. You can make your work easier and significantly protect yourself by installing scaffolding. They must be made comfortable and reliable, supporting not only your weight, but also the weight of the processed log. Therefore, the installation of such scaffolding requires a lot of additional building material and time. But even if all the requirements are met, working at height with an ax (including scaffolding) without sufficient skill is dangerous!

We offer you to build a log house in parts, each of which has a height of human growth. This method is called cutting with subsequent shifting. It consists in the fact that the individual parts of the log house, after being made on the ground, are disassembled and transferred to the main log house. Relays will allow you to do all the work with the ax while standing on the ground, and outdoor scaffolding will not be needed. In this case, we use two translations, since, in our opinion, this best option for the beginner builder. Let you not be confused by the time spent on additional disassembly and assembly of crowns. They are more than offset by the convenience and safety of work, because a well-equipped workplace is a guarantee of high labor productivity. You will learn more about how the translation is carried out later, but for now we will continue our acquaintance with the terminology.

The part of the tree trunk adjacent to the root is called the butt. Starting to cut a house, you should know that there is no perfectly even log. Any log has a slope, that is, it decreases in diameter from butt 1 to top 2. Therefore, when stacking logs one on top of the other, it is necessary to alternate butts and tops.

When assembling a log house, in order for one crown to adjoin the other more closely, groove 3 is selected along the logs. Another frequently performed operation in the processing of logs is the manufacture of edging 4.

The end of the log, hewn from two parallel sides, is called a "block" 5, the planes formed in this case are called cheeks 6, and the raw, convex surface is called wane 7.

The main structural elements of the log house, which serve as lock joints of the logs, are the "paw" 8 and the "dovetail" 9. For additional fastening of the logs in the crowns, the dowel 10 - pocket 11 connection is used, and the pillars and rafters are securely installed with the help of spikes 12.

You should pay special attention to the selection of the tool.
The most important of them is a carpenter's ax 1. It should fit your weight and fit comfortably in your hand. The purpose of tools such as chisel 2, plumb line 3, hacksaw 4, two-handed saw 5, bracket 6, bayonet shovel 7, as well as tape measures 8, ruler 9, square 10, colored pencils or wax crayons 11 should not raise questions. A low-stretch cord 12 and an awl 13 are used for marking, and a level 14 is used to check the horizontal position. To make a level, take an elastic rubber hose 5-8 m long, about 1 cm in diameter, the ends of which are put on two transparent glass tubes of the same diameter, 15-20 cm long. The resulting device is filled with tinted water. In addition to the level, you yourself need to make a template 15 from plexiglass 2-3 mm thick and line 16 - the main marking tools, as well as "babu" 17 - the main "impact" tool made from a birch chock with two staples hammered into it.

If you have the opportunity to purchase a chainsaw - do not miss it. A chainsaw will greatly facilitate your work, save your time and energy.

To avoid injuries and other "troubles" during construction, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the pages of special working methods and safety precautions.

You need to start construction with logging.
It is best to use conifers - pine and spruce. Aspen is good for making log cabins for baths and wells - it is not afraid of water. But birch cannot be used, as it quickly begins to rot and behaves very "capriciously" during processing. Since it burns well and gives off a lot of heat, save it for your fireplace. After the forest is cut down, it must be debarked and dried.

Structural element	Number of logs	Log length	Log diameter
crown crown	2 pcs. 3 pcs.	820 cm 620 cm	30-50 cm
Bottom trim	2 pcs. 3 pcs.	820 cm 620 cm	30-50 cm
lags	5-6 pcs.	620 cm	20-35 cm
window crowns	10-13 pcs.	620 cm	20-40 cm
Split logs (window and door)	22-27 pcs.	540 cm	20-35 cm
Closing and overhead crowns	5-9 pcs.	620 cm	20-35 cm
Top runs	2 pcs.	820 cm	20-35 cm
Subrafters	7-9 pcs.	720 cm	20-35 cm
rafters	14-18 pcs.	520 cm	at least 10 cm
porch poles	at least 2 pcs.	300 cm	at least 20 cm
Note: the indicated dimensions are chosen with a margin for trimming.

Now let's choose a place for the construction site.
From the side of the future veranda, it is necessary to provide a place for assembling the components of the log house. Then you can start marking the plan of the future home, which is done using a low-stretch cord and pegs. Our task is to get right angles.

BASIC RULE OF THE BUILDER - MARKING DEFINES QUALITY

We will implement it in the following way. We determine point 1. Set aside 800 cm from it and get point 2. On a cord 1600 cm long, measure 600 cm and tie a knot. We fix the ends of the cord at points 1 and 2. Taking the knot, we stretch the cord and get the desired point 3. Similarly, we find point 4. We mark the points obtained with pegs and check with a tape measure all the required distances and the equality of the diagonals with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm.

Next, we will make and install linings for the log house (temporary foundation).
Choose wooden chocks about 1 m long and at least 30 cm in diameter. Aspen is good for lining. It is resistant to moisture if it is pre-barked.

Linings must be installed under the purlins of the flashing crown, near the corners of the log house, in order to ensure the correct distribution of the load. The pads are installed according to the level with an accuracy of ~ 5 cm.

Making edging is the most common operation in the processing of logs..
In order to complete it, it is necessary to trim the log to size, choose a side for the edge, position the future edge plane approximately vertically, and fix the log with brackets. Do not be alarmed if the log has a curvature. It won't stop you from using it.

On a plumb line at the ends of the log, we draw vertical lines that define the plane of the edge.

We fix the cord with awls in the plane of the edge. Then we make a visual check, looking from the end of the log, and adjust the position of the cord. With a colored pencil we transfer the projection of the cord onto the log. To obtain the second edge line, repeat the same operations by turning the log over.

After that, we fix the log for the teska with brackets, but not much, so that you don’t have to knock them out later with a crowbar. Let's position the plane of the future edging vertically, make notches and, having hewed the log, we will get the edging.

Having a chainsaw, instead of notches, you can make cuts, which will significantly speed up the work.

Finally, let's proceed directly to the manufacture of the log house.
We begin to make a frame from eight-meter logs (runs) of the overlay crown, on one side of which an edging is made about 10 cm wide. Now we need to process the ends of the runs.

First, cut down the "boobs" with a width of 2/3-3/4 of the diameter of the log. The length of the "doodle" L is a constant value equal to the maximum diameter of the logs of the log house.

At the end of the "doodle" we select point 1, through it we draw the line of the "paw" according to the template with an extension inside the house.

Similarly, according to the template, through point 2 on the outer cheek and through point 3 on the inner cheek, draw a line of "paws".

We draw vertical lines on the cheeks of the log, spaced from the end by the width of the "doodle" of the counter log, and we get points 4 and 5. We make a vertical cut down to line 4-5.

Then it is necessary to lay transverse logs on the "paws" of the runs with "blocks" and, fixing them with brackets, check and correct the dimensions of the log house.

Now you can fasten the runs with linings tightly with staples.

Drawing is a parallel transfer of the points of the pairing lines of the lower log to the upper.
The opening of the line when drawing the "paw" of the overlay crown is chosen to be minimal, but such that the line of the "paw" of the transverse log does not fall on the wane.

In the process of drawing a log, the solution of the line cannot be changed! Let's draw the lines washed down from top to bottom, mark the top of the "paw", and then cut it down. Let's make an average "dummy" on the runs.

To simplify the cutting out of the cheeks of the middle "boob" we will make cuts.

According to the width of the "doodle" of the transverse log, we will cut down the "dovetail" in the run. With the help of the line, we transfer the lines of the "dovetail" to the "doodle" of the transverse log and cut it down. Let's lay the middle transverse log on the runs of the crown crown.

Now let's take a look at the bottom trim..
Let's make "doodles" on the runs of the lower strapping, lay them over the runs of the flashing crown. Using linings and a level, it is necessary to ensure that the upper parts of the runs are horizontal and lie in the same plane with an accuracy of ~ 3 cm. It should be borne in mind that the butts and tops in the crowns alternate. We fix the runs with brackets.

For drawing, we select a line solution corresponding to the maximum gap between the logs, plus 1-1.5 cm.

Let's check the selected solution of the feature along the ends of the log. It must be greater than distance 1-2 on both ends. Point 2 - the border of the wane and the inner cheek.

Let's mark the top of the "paws" under the transverse logs.

For further work, we need to master the operation of selecting a groove.
Along the entire length of the groove with the "heel" of the ax we will make cruciform notches, and with the "toe" of the ax along the lines of the groove we will select wood. When these two operations are combined, a groove is formed.

After that, you should cut down the "paws" and, having laid the log in place, check the tightness of its fit. To do this, the stacked log should lie on the inner cheeks with a slight overhang. When tilted, it will easily fall into the right place. Then we return the log to its original position and evenly lay tow (moss) on the underlying log. Now you can finally lay the top log on it.

Next, three transverse logs of the lower trim should be made and laid on the runs. To complete the lower trim, it remains only to embed the logs. On the runs of the lower strapping, we outline the places for inserting the lag. As a zero mark (upper lag level), we select approximately the middle of the transverse log of the lower trim. Let's move the zero mark to the corners of the log house and make notches. We put the finished logs in place, outline, and then cut down their contour to the level of the tie-in. Let's beat the lags with a "woman".

In the course of work, you may encounter typical errors.

The log "plays" (the gap between the "paws", loose fit of the log in the groove):
the reason is a knot on the lower log or a poor selection of the groove; correction - cut down the knots on the lower log, knock the upper log with a "woman", select the places of wrinkling in the groove.
Gap between legs:
the reason - the opening of the line when drawing the "paw" was greater than the opening of the line when drawing the groove, or there was a "blockage" of the line; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap, draw a groove on both sides of the log and make a selection.
The log "hangs" on the "legs" (loose fit of the log in the groove, there is no gap between the "legs"):
the reason is that the opening of the line when drawing the groove is greater than the opening of the line when drawing the "paw"; correction - with a line with a solution equal to the width of the gap 1, draw "paws" 2 and trim them.

It should be said that they are allowed following sizes gaps: in the "paw" - 0.5 cm, in the groove - 1.5 cm.

Now it's the turn of laying the first window sill.
Let's mark first doorway. It should be noted that openings (both window and door) are made 5-10 cm smaller than the design size. Split logs are fixed with dowels, for which markings are applied on both sides of the logs.

To mark the center lines of the dowel on both logs, it is necessary to remove the "shorty" (log in a split crown). Then, along the center line, the pockets for the dowel are selected with a chisel. The total depth of the pockets should be 1 cm more than the height of the dowel. The dowel should fit tightly into the pocket.

When laying the crowns, a constant check with a plumb line of the verticality of the corners should be carried out. The last window sill in doorway goes uncut. The uncut log of this crown is also planted on two dowels.

Tow (moss) does not fit under the logs of the last window sill crown, since this crown is removed for the first re-laying. Starting the translation, first from zero level set aside the same distance up and make notches at the corners of the removable crown. Then we will remove the last window sill crown and install it on the ground, placing linings 15-20 cm high. In this case, it is necessary to observe the verticality of the cheeks. Using the level, restore the horizontality of the crown along the notches. Let's check the equality of the diagonals in the corners.

Let's start laying out the window crowns, having previously marked the window openings.
Recommended height of openings: windows - 110-130 cm, doors - 180-190 cm. "Shorty" window rims are fastened with dowels. Let's lay the closing crown, which consists of continuous logs, and put it on the dowels, transferring the zero mark to its corners. Draw a vertical line at the corners of the frame to be moved, which serves as a control during assembly.

Now it is possible, having marked the logs, to shift them to the main frame, laying each crown with moss or tow. For convenience in work, we recommend making simple scaffolding inside the house at the level of the window sill, for which you install chocks in the corners of the house and fasten them together with poles (two poles along each side of the frame). For the stability of the scaffolding, the poles in pairs must rest against the opposite walls of the log house.

The upper harness consists of two upper runs and rafters. At the ends of the runs, "doodles" are performed, and in the middle - only the inner cheeks. For adjustment, we will lay the upper runs (eight meters) on the transverse logs of the last window crown (there is no need to make the top of the "paws" on them).

Check and correct dimensions A-B, S-D.
Using linings and staples, we will achieve the horizontal top of the runs.

Let's transfer the lines of the inner cheeks of the runs to the transverse logs. Having rolled back the run, we will cut down the “paw” on the extreme transverse log, and the “dovetail” on the middle one. Let's make the cheeks in the upper runs, respectively, the "dovetail" of the transverse log. On the underside of the girders, we will make pockets 4 cm deep for the spikes of the veranda pillars. Again we will lay the runs and, having drawn them, we will cut them into the appropriate place.

We will prepare logs for rafters with a length of 7 m. All of them, except for one, should be hewn into two parallel edges, obtaining sleepers of the same thickness (at least 15 cm). We will cut the raw end rafter with a dovetail into the run so that its top is horizontal.

Let's mark the tie-in points of the remaining processed rafters on the upper runs. Then we cut the rafters (checking by level), cutting the run by no more than 1/4 of the diameter.

You can also correct the upper level of the rafter by cutting it itself, but not more than 1/4 of the thickness.

Next, we make platforms for the rafter legs and under the wind board on the extreme (first) rafter (flush with the rest). If necessary, it should be precipitated by re-drawing. Pull the cord along the ends of the extreme rafters and align the rest along it.

Make marks on the substrings and runs for subsequent alignment and mark them.

On the cord on all the rafters, mark the pockets for the rafter legs. Cut them out with a chisel and check with a template.

On the veranda sub-rafter, make pockets for poles (the number is determined by the design of the veranda). To eliminate the gap between the level of the lower edge of the rafters (ceiling) and the last log of the veranda wall, draw and cut in a log - a "plug".

Now let's start making rafters.
The choice of material, marking and manufacturing of rafters require special care and accuracy, since the strength of the roof depends on their quality. Rafter blanks are selected with the least number of knots. In no case should knots fall on the top of the workpiece, because the tenon in this place will be significantly weakened. It is allowed that the rafters have a slight curvature in the plane of the roof slope. The length of the blanks is determined by the angle of the roof and the length of the rafters. In our case, the angle of inclination is 45°.

Prepared blanks of rafters must be disassembled in pairs and numbered. On the blanks of the rafters, the side on which the crate will be attached should be flat, without protruding knots.

Let's start marking the base of the rafters
Let's make a wash down along the ellipse line and cut the workpiece under the spike, and then, having made the end cut, cut down the spike itself. Next, mark, cut down and cut down the tops of the rafters. We will disassemble the finished rafters in pairs and install them to fit and check the quality of the connections to the rafters. Adjustment is carried out by trimming the spikes or widening and deepening the pockets.

Sometimes they simplify the work on the manufacture of rafters. At the tops they are connected into half-logs, and the bases are attached to the rafters with nails without making a spike. By simplifying the task for yourself, you significantly weaken the rafters and reduce the life of the roof in advance.

Now let's remove the rafters and proceed to the last shift, not forgetting to lay the tow (moss). Then we will lay all the rafters, except for the veranda, and fasten them with brackets apart, in order to avoid their reversal along the axis.

We have come to the final stage of construction - the manufacture of pillars
In a log house, the pillars form the frame of the veranda and, according to their functional purpose, are divided into corner, door, window and intermediate ones. Corner posts are a support for the upper runs, door and window frames are attached to the door and window frames. Intermediate pillars do not carry any additional load and are only a frame for sheathing. The corner posts should have the largest cross-sectional area, and the intermediate posts should have the smallest. The distance between the intermediate pillars is determined depending on the length of the boards used for sheathing the veranda, but in any case should be no more than 1.5 m.

The manufacture of corner posts begins with determining their length and marking pockets. For the convenience of marking, we will make a "fishing rod", at the end of which we will fix a plumb line. With the help of such a device, we will design any of the corners of the upper pocket onto the platform of the verandah transverse log of the lower strapping, while obtaining the distance H. Using the designed corner, we will restore the reciprocal pocket at the bottom.

Corner posts must be processed into three edges, and the distance between two parallel edges should be at least 16 cm. Next, the post should be cut to size.

Then we will make a pocket for the lower spike with a depth of 7 cm. We will install the corner posts, placing linings 5 cm high, which should be removed six months later, after the log house shrinks.

Having installed the corner posts, we put the verandah rafters in place and fix them with brackets. The rest of the pillars must be made and installed after shrinkage of the log house. Door and window pillars, as well as corner ones, are processed into three edges, the rest - into two. The lower spike of all pillars, except for the corner ones, should be 3 cm long.

The installation of the remaining pillars should be started from the side of the log house, grabbing the already installed pillars to the upper run (veranda sub-rafter) with brackets.

The final operation is the installation of rafters.
For its implementation, it is necessary to lay walkways from poles (boards) across the rafters, prepare jibs from poles about 1.5 m long according to the number of rafters and nails 100 mm long. Lay out the rafter legs on the rafters, orienting the spikes opposite the pockets.

We will collect the tops of the rafters with nails and install them, securing them with jibs. When installing the extreme rafters, a plumb line should be used.

Rafters are more convenient to install with three people. Raising the rafters, you should simultaneously move forward, and fixing the spikes of the rafter legs in the pockets, fix them with jibs, checking the verticality of the rafters.

It remains only to fasten the rafter legs with rafters with thin brackets.

So, ! But a log house is not yet. Next, you will need to make a foundation, sew up gables, cover the roof, lay down a stove or fireplace, lay floors, sheathe a veranda, cut in window and door blocks, etc., in general, you will find a lot more interesting work.

The project of a log house offered by us is universal. If its dimensions are proportionally reduced, then you get a very good log cabin of a bath, for example, with a size of 4x4 m. By the way, it is better to start learning carpentry from such a building, gain the necessary skills, gain self-confidence, and then you can safely offer your services in construction to others gardeners.