What kind of drain is needed for a bath. Draining and draining water from a bath - how to lay a drain pipe under the floors and make a drainage

The main problem of a bath with a washing room is the removal of effluents from it. Therefore, technology options for how to drain water in a bath with wooden floors from leaking or solid flooring are relevant for each individual developer.

Let's immediately define the terms, under the wooden floors in the article we mean - wooden flooring (ladders), i.e. bathroom floor finish. The overlap under them can be either wooden (on beams) or concrete (on the ground).

The main nuances of the construction and use of the bath are:

the building is usually heated with wood-burning stoves that are not intended for connecting the contours of a warm water floor;
sewerage is necessary in the washing room, less often in the steam room;
with periodic heating, the wood on the floors heats up faster than a concrete screed or slab;
maximum heat loss is traditionally present in the floors of the lower floor, so they need to be insulated;
the budget option for a bath on the MZLF, columnar or pile grillage is the floor on the ground without overlap;
a slightly more expensive overlap along the beams, which has a smaller resource in comparison with a concrete structure.

Important! For the bath, the regulation SP 29.13330 (Floors) remains relevant, according to which the finishing coating in the washing room should be 1.5 - 2 cm lower than the lining in other rooms.

Varieties of wooden floor in the bath

The floor covering made of wood has a pleasant tactile sensation when walking on it barefoot, unlike other claddings. There are 2 categories of the wooden floor of the bath:

Depending on the design of the foundation, the overlapping of the bath floor may have a design:

On both types of floors, both solid and leaking wooden floors are made.

Organization of the drain

Despite the periodic operating mode, it is forbidden to dump drains on the ground under the bathhouse. It is necessary to collect and divert them to a separate septic tank or a centralized drainage system.

Depending on the design of the wooden floor, drains can be arranged in the following ways:

It is physically impossible to insulate a leaking floor, so the insulation is laid below a large-format funnel from the materials discussed above.

Important! The maximum heat loss in the floors is observed when there is an underground in the building, that is, in hanging grillages. Therefore, the floor and sewerage of a pile or columnar high grillage should be insulated without fail.

It is forbidden to drain bath drains directly onto the ground under this building for the following reasons:

detergents lead to gradual infection, not only of their own area, but also provide similar troubles to their neighbors;
moisture inevitably accumulates in the backfill sinuses and destroys the foundation;
even with partial replacement of the soil with crushed stone / sand, the heaving forces increase sharply due to the swelling of clay in a humid environment.

The septic tank must be placed on the site in accordance with the requirements of the SP, SanPiN standards at a distance of at least 4 m from the foundation of the bath, and not under its floor. This will improve the quality of maintenance of the water treatment chambers, infiltration well or field through which clarified water is discharged into the ground for natural post-treatment.

Leaking floor

This option ensures that the wood dries quickly and increases the life of the flooring. Depending on the design of the bath floor, the leaking floor can be constructed in different ways:

A funnel under a leaking floor that collects liquid is constructed from materials:

Advice! Leaking floor logs are treated with antiseptics or penetrating compounds to increase the service life in a humid environment.

A leaking floor is inconvenient from a hygiene point of view - large debris inevitably penetrates into the funnel (for example, broom leaves brought on the body from the steam room), so it is better to make the boards removable. A compromise is lattice pallets or fixing boards in special nests.

Another option is flexible plank ladders for the bath. The board is connected in these structures with a cord or cable; after laying on the logs, such wooden rugs retain spatial rigidity. After washing, they can be rolled up and put away to dry.

Flexible wooden ladders for a bath.

grooved board

This option is more convenient to use, but the moisture evaporates longer, the boards warp when dried. A non-leaking floor can be made on logs laid on a floor slab or floor on the ground, or wooden floor beams. Therefore, the design of the drain unit is different:

There is no constant heating in the bath, therefore, a heater under the floor is necessary solely to reduce the time it takes to enter steam mode and increase operating comfort.

The choice of the drain node

The periodic operating mode of the bath causes the water seal to dry out inside the classic bottle or U-shaped siphon. Therefore, in these outbuildings, dry ladders of several types are more often used:

When installing a dry drain, harmful gases will not be able to penetrate from the septic tank through the pipes of the external sewer into the bathhouse, relieving users of the smell of hydrogen sulfide and methane.

Attention: Natural ventilation under the wooden flooring is provided by decorative hatches (2 pieces per room are enough) and cuts in the logs. Hatches are located diagonally, decorated with bars, usually located under shelves, benches.

Thus, in wooden floors, you can equip a sewer drain on your own. For most projects of these outbuildings, there are at least two options, which allows you to choose the most economical. The best option would be a floor on the ground with a leaking floor laid on the logs.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Probably, the vast majority of owners of summer cottages and suburban private houses cannot imagine their life without their own, since such a structure is an integral part of ancient Russian traditions. A bath is not only a place for washing, but also a kind of home “dispensary”, working to restore the strength and health of the owners, for the necessary periodic relaxation. But in order for it to bring only pleasant sensations, its arrangement, and in particular - all the necessary communications, must be done in accordance with all the rules.

One of the traditionally problematic components of the bath system is the disposal of used water, so it is very important to properly organize its removal and collection point. Discharging contaminated, untreated wastewater onto the ground or into natural water bodies is strictly prohibited, and such an approach will inevitably lead to penalties from environmental supervisory authorities. Therefore, in the absence of a centralized sewage system (as it most often happens), a special pit of storage or drainage action is usually created for these purposes. And in order for the drain pit for the bath to function effectively, it is necessary to study its design before starting construction, and during the period of work on the arrangement, follow the recommendations of experienced craftsmen.

The main types of drain pits

The arrangement of any drain pit is a rather laborious process, since the pit will most likely have to be dug manually. At the same time, such a hydraulic structure does not differ in the complexity of the design, so any owner of the site can build and equip it on their own, without even involving assistants, of course, if there is enough strength for earthmoving.

Drainage pits can be divided into three main types - a sealed container, a pit with drainage capacity, and consisting of several chambers.

To begin with, let's figure out what each of the varieties is in principle.

A sealed drain pit is most often equipped at construction sites with shallow ground aquifers. It is often called a cesspool, that is, requiring periodic emptying of the collected volumes of dirty water.

For its construction, a pit is dug into which a container with a sufficiently large volume is installed. It will collect sewage. As the tank fills up to a certain critical level, the waste is pumped out by a sewage machine.

This option is environmentally friendly, since no contaminants and chemical cleaning solutions enter the soil and groundwater, which can adversely affect the condition of the fertile soil on the site, as well as have a negative impact on high ground aquifers. However, this option is not convenient and cost-effective, since you will have to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and often call specialized vehicles, and such services are not cheap.

Prices for septic tanks

A hermetically closed bottom is not created in the drainage drain pit. As it is used a bulk layer of filter building material - most often crushed stone or gravel is chosen for this purpose.

In addition, often holes are also made in the walls of the drainage pit at a certain height through which water will be absorbed into the soil. This option is great for a bath and is perhaps the easiest to build, however, if the characteristics of the soil on the site allow it.

A septic tank is a whole system consisting of two or more chambers with different purposes.

In any of the options, the first chamber most often has a sealed design and serves to collect, primary filter and treat waste - solid components settle to the bottom, and liquid ones are clarified, undergo a biological treatment cycle due to the action of aerobic microorganisms. This container is connected to the second chamber with a special overflow pipe - the clarified liquid waste flows into the next compartment, which is already organized according to the principle of a drainage well. Water passes through the drainage, is cleaned and absorbed into the soil.

If a septic tank of three tanks is planned, then the third chamber is made drainage. The second one serves for the final settling of suspensions, deeper purification of water through the action of anaerobic microorganisms. And from here comes the overflow of the purified liquid into the drainage well.

A septic tank is most often equipped in the case when it is supposed to collect the entire considerable amount of liquid waste from both a residential building and a bathhouse.

What is important to know about the design and rules of septic tank equipment?

A septic tank is already a rather complex engineering structure, the creation of which must obey certain rules. Often, homeowners prefer to install a prefabricated prefabricated system. What are the rules for arranging such a treatment plant, and what to pay special attention to when - read in a special publication of our portal.

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Various materials can be used to build drainage type bath drain pits. Their choice directly depends on the estimated volume of effluents, the financial capabilities of the owners of the site and the convenience of construction.

Drainage pit from barrels

To create this water drainage system, metal or plastic barrels of various sizes are used. However, such a drain can be equipped in different ways:

First option. At the bottom of the excavated pit, covered with drainage material 300 ÷ 400 mm thick - crushed stone or coarse gravel, after tamping, a barrel with perforated walls and a cut bottom is installed. This takes into account the fact that between the walls of the barrel and the pit there should be a space of at least 100 mm, which is also filled with drainage backfill.

A pipe is brought into the barrel at the required slope angle, through which the used water from the bath will flow into the container. These runoffs will gradually, through the holes in the walls and through the bottom part, seep into the drainage layer, be cleaned, and then soak into the surrounding soil. In some cases, not only the free space of the pit is filled with drainage material, but even the barrel itself, that is, water will flow immediately into the drainage layers, and then into the ground. This way the barrel will never fill up.

It must be correctly understood that such a scheme is not suitable for collecting other types of wastewater from a residential building. For a bath, which is used for its intended purpose once or twice a week, such a pit becomes one of the best options.

Second option. In this method of arranging the pit, two barrels are used, installed at different levels - one is about 200 mm higher than the other. They are interconnected at the top with an overflow pipe. Water from the bath enters the first upper container, soapy sediment and solid suspensions settle in it, and when it is filled, the water overflows into the second barrel, to which one or two long drainage pipes with perforated walls are attached.

The outlet pipes from the second tank are laid in drainage trenches with gravel or crushed stone filling, through which the water purified from chemical precipitation will be distributed, moistening the soil. The trenches are covered from above with a layer of fertile soil, approximately 500 mm thick, and can be planted with ornamental shrubs, which will constantly receive watering. Thus, two problems are solved at once - the removal of water from the bath and the irrigation of plants on the site.

This option for arranging a drain pit will be discussed in detail below.

Brick drain hole

The arrangement of the walls of the drain pit can be done with the help of bricks, which are laid out with gaps - through them, water is drained into the drainage backfill and further into the ground. The difference between this pit and the first version, made from a barrel, differs only in material, but the principle of operation remains the same. A drainage layer is poured into the gap between the soil and brick walls, which will purify the water and distribute it throughout the pit, diverting it into the ground.

A pit made of brick is more durable and designed for a larger volume of water. Moreover, if you dig a pit deep enough, and make the bottom and lower part of the walls airtight, then this design may well be used to drain other waste, but in this case the pit will have to be periodically cleaned.

To equip such a variant of the drain pit, it is not at all necessary to use a new brick - the used material is also quite suitable.

Prices for metal barrels

metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

If there are financial and technical possibilities, then the drainage pit can be built from concrete perforated rings, which are installed in the prepared pit. After installing the rings at the bottom of such a well, a drainage backfill is arranged.

In this option, the entire space between the walls, as in the previous cases, is also covered with drainage material, so the pit, provided that it is used only for bathing needs, will never be filled with water. In the same case, when the pit is deep enough and the bottom of the well is cemented, then such a pit is suitable not only for a bath, but also for a common one. True, this will require additional calculations, an assessment of the absorbent properties of adjacent soils and the location of aquifers.

Pit from old car tires

A drainage pit made from waste car tires can only be used for liquid waste, so it is the best fit for collecting periodically incoming water from the bath.

Tires are installed in different ways: in some cases, holes are cut in their side walls, in others a small gap is provided between the slopes, in others, the outer walls are almost completely cut off, but the principle of operation of the drainage pit remains the same.

This option for draining water from the bath can be called the most popular, as it is easy to arrange, affordable (tires are easy to find for free) and practical to use.

On the diagram, the numbers indicate:

1 - Crushed stone or gravel of a large fraction - drainage backfill, with a layer of 250 ÷ 300 mm thick.

2 - Old car tires.

3 - Drain pipe from the bath (there may be two of them)

4 - Crossbars for laying the cover.

5 - Cover or hatch.

Around the laid out stack of wheels, and sometimes inside the resulting well, a drainage cushion is backfilled, which makes it possible to retain and purify the water coming from the bath. With good drainage capacity of the soil and periodic use of the bath, the pit never overflows.

It should be noted that other materials that can withstand exposure to high humidity are also suitable for building a drain bath pit.

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

In order for the drainage system from the bath to be effective, it is necessary to determine the type of soil in the area at the approximate depth of the planned pit. To do this, a trench or test hole is dug. In order for the bath to be used in winter, the depth must be below the freezing level of the soil. Information about soil freezing in a particular area is easy to find on the Internet, or you can consult with the owners of neighboring plots who have been using systems of such drain sewers for a long time.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Sandy soils, sandy loams, including those with stony inclusions, have good drainage capabilities.

But dense clay layers can cause problems. At high humidity, they are well saturated with water, swell, and become practically waterproof, when dried, they shrink. In addition, they are highly susceptible to frost swelling. These qualities of such soils are unfavorable both for laying and when laying pipes in trenches, as they can lead to deformations and damage to themselves and other elements of the system.

To build a drainage pit in such soil, if it extends to a great depth, is an almost meaningless exercise. Well, if it is necessary to lay a pipe through such layers to a drainage pit that reaches the depth of the soil with high absorbency, then the bottom of the trench must be lined with a sand cushion 100 ÷ 120 mm thick, which will prevent the hard impact of ground vibrations on the elements of the drain system.

The level of occurrence of groundwater (GWL) is also important, since the degree of absorption of water entering the drain pit will also directly depend on this. So, between the bottom of the pit and the location of a stable aquifer, there should be a distance of about 1000 mm. If the groundwater is located close to the surface, then the polluted water will not go well into the drainage, and such a well will soon turn into a fetid pit, as it will be constantly filled. In this case, as with clay soils, the drainage pit option will not work. You will either have to install a sealed container that requires periodic emptying, or organize water drainage to special surface filtration fields.

Having chosen the material for the construction of the pit, it is necessary to decide on several more important points of its arrangement, on which the efficiency of the system depends, the environmental safety of both the site itself and its inhabitants.

First of all, you need to decide on the place where the pit will be located.

Quite often, owners have a drainage pit directly under the building, but this becomes possible only if:

- the pit is equipped before the construction itself;

- the building rises above the ground on a columnar or pile foundation, which will need to be well waterproofed;

- good ventilation should be provided under the bath building;

- the sewer pipe connecting the drain of the bath and the pit will require effective thermal insulation.

If the pit is located separately, away from the bathhouse, then it must be provided that it is at the required distance from sources of drinking water, natural reservoirs, residential and outbuildings, trees, the border of the site and the road passing near it. The required standards are shown in the diagram below:

The pit should be located below the level of the drain hole in the floor of the bath, at least 150 ÷ 200 mm, and the recommended distance from the bath building is 3 ÷ 5 meters.

If the drain pit has to be located close enough to the structure of the bath, then:

- the bottom of the pit should have a slope of 20 ÷ 25 degrees, diverting water from the walls of the building;

- perforation in the walls of the barrel, concrete rings or tires, must be done from the side that will be farther from the walls of the bath;

It is very important to observe the correct slope of the sewer pipe so that dirty water does not stagnate inside the channel, but immediately goes into the drainage pit, there is no risk of freezing when using the bathhouse in winter. It is especially necessary to remember this in cases where it is decided to place the pit far enough from the bath. The amount of slope required depends on the selected pipe diameter - this is quite clearly indicated by the diagram below:

It should be noted that to organize the drainage of water from a small bath without a toilet, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is usually sufficient. In order to maintain the desired slope, when digging a connecting trench, as well as when adding a sandy "cushion" into it, control the difference in its depth using the building level.

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

In this section of the publication, two options for drain pits will be considered, which can be equipped independently.

conventional drainage pit

This version of the drainage pit has a design that can be made from various materials, which were discussed above.

Illustration
	After determining the location for the location of the drain pit, you can proceed to digging the pit. For a bath drainage well, a pit depth of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm will be sufficient. It can have a round or square shape in cross section - it will depend on the chosen material for arranging the walls. For example, if the pit is made out of brick, then it is more convenient to lay a square or rectangular shape out of it, but in some cases a round well also stands out from it. The diameter of the pit should be 150÷200 mm larger than the prepared container.
	When the pit is prepared, a trench is dug from it to the building of the bath at the right angle for laying the drainage pipe. The width of the trench can be 300 ÷ 500 mm, and the depth will depend on the level of soil freezing in the area where the bath is built, but not less than 500 mm at the entrance to the well.
	The bottom of the finished pit is covered with stone of the middle fraction - it is gravel, crushed stone, chipped brick or even broken slate. The drainage layer must be at least 300 mm, since it is designed to retain dirty water and clean it, that is, moisture must flow to the soil by capillary action, which will allow it to be quickly absorbed.
	Further, they act differently. You can immediately lay a sewer pipe, and then work on the brick walls of the water intake well, or first install or build a container, and in the course of its construction, a drainage pipe is inserted into one of the specially made holes. Most often, the pipe is laid at a time when the walls are brought out to the level of the depth of the trench, otherwise it will simply interfere with work.
	So, the walls of the drain well can be built of brick. Masonry is carried out in compliance with the clearance between adjacent bricks in a row of 40 ÷ 50 mm. The wall can have a thickness of half a brick or one brick - this parameter is chosen by the builder, and to a greater extent depends on the amount of prepared material. Having raised the walls of the well by another 200 ÷ 300 mm, the space between the soil walls and the brick walls is filled with drainage backfill.
	If concrete perforated rings are used to form the walls, then specialized equipment will have to be involved in their installation, since each of them has an impressive mass, and distortions should not be allowed during installation. After their installation, the distance between the soil and concrete must also be filled with drainage backfill. It should also be noted here that if concrete rings are used for the pit, then one should not rush to install the walls of the sewer pipe into the hole, since under their weight they can sink somewhat into the ground - it happens that by 100 ÷ 150 mm. Therefore, it is recommended that the finished concrete well be left alone for some time to shrink, otherwise the plastic pipe may crack or break from the pressure and stress that has arisen.
	When using metal barrels for the pit, the bottom and lid are cut off from them, and the side walls can simply be cut with the help of a grinder. The cuts are made at a distance from each other of 200÷250 mm horizontally and in increments of 100÷120 mm in height. If two barrels are used, they are placed one on top of the other. After installing the lower one, the free space around its walls is filled with drainage. After that, in the second of them, in the upper one, a hole is marked and cut out through which a drainage pipe will be installed in the barrel. A marking hole can be cut with a grinder, but an opening made with an electric jigsaw will still be more accurate. To do this, a hole is drilled at one of the points of the marked circle, into which the nail file of the tool should freely enter.
	If plastic barrels are prepared for the drain pit, then they are mounted in approximately the same way as metal ones, but quite often the drain pipe is connected through the top cover of the container. In a plastic barrel, the bottom can also be cut off or several round holes with a diameter of 100 ÷ 120 mm are cut into it.
	Holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled in the side walls along the entire perimeter of the polymer container with a frequency of 100 ÷ 150 mm horizontally and vertically. Around the barrel and under it, crushed stone or gravel is backfilled, into which, as in previous cases, water will flow from the holes of the barrel, be cleaned and go into the ground.
	The most commonly used and material for arranging the drainage well of the bath are car tires, which are stacked one on top of the other. On the inside, at the edges of the tires, in three or four places, holes with a diameter of 10 mm are drilled, through which they are fastened together by means of, for example, plastic clamps-puffs. The sewer pipe can be brought between two tires. In this case, for emphasis, along the edges of the plastic pipe and in three or four more places between the tires at the place of its passage, bricks are installed that will remove the load from the plastic from the upper slopes.
	Another option for driving a pipe is to install it in a hole cut in the side wall of the tire. When choosing this method, it is necessary to foresee the possible shrinkage of the structure by cutting a hole larger than the pipe diameter by 70 ÷ 80 mm.
	Quite often, the drain bath pit is not filled with drainage material around the barrels or tires, but is filled with it by two-thirds - this allows water to slowly flow to the soil walls and slowly soak into them.
	It is recommended to strengthen the top of the pit with brick walls by equipping a concrete platform with a hole for the hatch. To do this, a formwork is built around the well, into which a reinforcing grid is laid, and then it is poured with concrete mortar, a layer 70 ÷ 80 mm thick.
	After the concrete has hardened, a homemade cover made of a steel sheet and a corner is installed on the hole. Factory-made hatches, metal or plastic, are also quite applicable.
	Special plastic sewer manholes can have various shapes and linear parameters. So, when planning to install this particular option, the hatch is purchased in advance, and the top cover of the drain pit is already equipped according to its size.
	A well made of concrete rings is usually covered with a special cover made of the same material with a ready-made hole for a plastic or cast-iron hatch.
	The walls of the well, built from tires or from barrels, have less rigidity than brick or concrete, so it is best to strengthen them with cement mortar mixed with crushed stone. If the drainage was filled up between the walls of the well and the soil, then its upper layer, standing 120 ÷ 150 mm, is recommended to be made from the solution mentioned above. Further, the top of the pit can be left in this state by simply installing a hatch on the hole, or you can equip a concrete platform above the structure with its subsequent backfilling.

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

The second option is more complex in design, but its functionality is much higher. This system is perfect for arranging in areas with groundwater close to the surface, since it does not require a deep pit. In addition, such a design can also be a solution for organizing drainage water from the foundation, from a storm well filled from linear storm water inlets on the site or their gutters on the eaves of the roof of the house.

To figure out how to cope with the arrangement of such a hydraulic structure, you should consider this process in detail.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For this system, two plastic barrels are used, which are easy to prepare for installation work and connect to sewer pipes from the same material. Usually, two or three containers with a volume of 200 ÷ 250 liters are enough for a drain pit of a small bath.
	The pit for the installation of barrels is also dug 100 ÷ 150 mm larger than their diameter, and due to the fact that containers of equal size will be installed at different levels, the pit for them should have a stepped configuration. The depth of the pit in this system should be 450 ÷ 500 mm more than the height of the barrel. This distance will be needed to equip a drainage cushion under the barrel and a recess for the pipe entering it. The difference in the installation level of the tanks should be 150÷200 mm, and the distance between them varies between 200 and 300 mm. Barrels are installed in one line. The bottom of the pit is compacted and covered with rubble of medium fraction, with a layer 80 ÷ 100 mm thick, which also needs to be compacted.
	Next, you can proceed to work on the preparation of containers. The barrel installed above will serve as the primary chamber, that is, a sump for dirty water. A neat hole is cut in its top cover into which a drain pipe will be installed. In the side wall, on the opposite side from the hole in the lid, holes are cut for the pipe, which will connect the first barrel to the second one, installed somewhat lower. To insert plastic pipes into the lid or into the walls of the barrel, you can find special flanges in the plumbing store, such as the one shown in the illustration.
	If not, then you will have to cut a hole with maximum accuracy, and then for sealing - do not spare high-quality silicone sealant.
	Additionally, it is recommended to cut a hole for installing a ventilation pipe with a diameter of 40 ÷ 50 mm, or install a tee, as shown in the illustration, where one outlet will be designed to connect the sewer drain pipe from the bath, and the other, vertical, for the ventilation pipe.
	The second barrel is equipped with three holes, one of which is drilled in the top cover, and two - in the side wall, below the top edge by 100÷120 mm. The axes of these side windows must be turned radially from the axis of the central hole by 45 degrees.
	Branch pipes with 45-degree bends installed on them are cut into the side holes and sealed. As a result, the pipes for connecting the drainage pipes will become parallel to each other - as shown in the illustration.
	Additionally, in the lower part of the walls of the second barrel being installed, on the opposite side of the entrance, small holes are drilled, 5 mm in diameter, at a distance of 150 ÷ 170 mm from each other. This is an additional outlet of water to the drainage backfill around the barrel. However, if powerful filter fields will certainly cope with their task, and even more so if such a septic tank has to be installed in the immediate vicinity of the bath, then this operation is not mandatory.
	The result should be such a design, as shown in the illustration. Having mounted a system of barrels and nozzles, you can proceed to the creation of a filtration drainage field.
	For the drainage platform, which is located at a slope from the installed barrels, a trench is dug, having a width of 1200 ÷ 1500 mm and the same depth to which the first barrel above is buried. If desired, the drainage filter field can be stretched over the entire area, as it will not interfere with the arrangement of beds for annual crops or for planting shrubs above it. A geotextile sheet is laid on the bottom of the resulting channel, on top of which drainage will be laid. Backfilling the trench with crushed stone is done in layers, each of which should be carefully tamped and distributed under a slope along pre-set pegs. The slope of the trench should be approximately 25 mm per linear meter. The pegs pre-installed with the necessary difference in height will become a kind of beacons for the correct backfilling of the drainage layer.
	As the drainage material falls asleep around the lower barrel, water is poured into it, otherwise the external pressure of the soil can deform it. It is recommended to fill the space between the walls of the barrels with gravel or coarse sand, which should be compacted by spilling water. Further, pipes with perforated walls are connected to the nozzles, through which water will be distributed over the drainage site. Holes are drilled in increments of 150÷180 mm along the bottom and sides of the pipes. Pipes after drilling are dressed in a filter "casing" made of geotextile - so that the inside of the pipes is not subjected to silting.
	The next step of the pipe and the entire space of the trench is covered with crushed stone of the middle fraction mixed with sand. Such a layer should reach the lid of the barrel installed below, that is, completely cover the pipes from above with a layer of at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. On top of the rubble, it is best to backfill several different layers of soil. So, crushed stone is first covered with geotextile, on which a layer of moistened sand 70 ÷ 80 mm thick is laid, and the rest of the space can be filled with fertile soil. On this site, it is quite possible to equip a flower bed, plant annual vegetable crops or even small shrubs with a shallow fibrous root system.

At the end of the publication, it should be noted that there are other materials that can sometimes be found in the yard among old stocks or even seemingly unnecessary trash, which in fact may well be suitable for building a drain pit for a bath. For example, you can find a use for old sheets of wave or smooth slate, or even trimmings of corrugated board left after roofing work.

Some resourceful owners of country houses lay out the walls of the drainage well with glass or plastic bottles that are filled with sand, find other very interesting solutions. Therefore, if there is a desire to save money, and at the same time free up part of the yard or sheds from old materials, then you need to turn on the fantasy “to the fullest” - and act! We will be glad if some creative master will share his innovations on the pages of our portal.

Another example of a simple drain for a bath is shown in the video below.

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

The removal of used water from the bath is a rather important point that must be taken into account already at the design stage of the building. Timely draining of water prevents the spread of dampness and mold in the room, thereby seriously extending the life of the bath and its foundation. About how to properly drain the water from the bath, and will be discussed in this article.

Arrangement of a drain pipe

Before you make a drain in the bath, you should consider all possible drainage schemes, see photos and drawings of these systems. The classic design, the effectiveness of which has been tested for centuries, is an ordinary drain pipe installed when laying the foundation for a bath. When arranging, the pipe is mounted with a natural slope relative to the drain pit, because in this case additional thermal insulation is not required.

A pit for used water is laid at a distance of 3-5 meters from the bath and strengthened to prevent spilling of the edges. The best option is ready-made concrete rings or a frame completely filled with concrete. A filter is installed at the bottom of the pit so that the water goes into the ground.

The pipe should not have even the slightest bends - this always leads to clogging of the channel, and it will be much more difficult to clean it. When choosing a material, you should not use untested solutions - standard sewer pipes are used to drain water from the bath.

A simple drain in the bath is installed according to the following algorithm:

First, a pit is prepared, to which a trench is brought, equipped with a slope to the point of water collection;
A sewer pipe is laid in the trench (it is advisable to use heat-insulating materials at this stage);
In the washing compartment, a concrete floor is created, the general slope of which is directed towards the drain pipe;
For the normal functioning of the drain, regardless of the time of year, the pipe inlet must be closed with a mesh that will collect all contaminants;
On top of the poured cement screed, tiles can be laid, choosing it in accordance with the design decision;
It is worth laying special wooden grills for the bath on the tiles, which prevent bare feet from contact with the heated tiles.

Ways to drain water from the bath

The selection of the optimal scheme for removing used water from the bath is always carried out individually, depending on financial capabilities and the planned load on the drain system.

By and large, the flow of water in the bath can be divided into two main categories:

Systems located directly under the foundation of the building;
Systems for which a separate water tank is installed outside the perimeter of the bath.

The latter option has more advantages, but its cost is high, and it will take a lot of effort. It is worth considering both categories in more detail in order to understand how appropriate their application will be in a particular situation.

Arrangement of a simple funnel

Outside, an ordinary pit with brick-reinforced walls is installed, or a structure made of a metal barrel with a missing bottom. In any case, the bottom of the pit is covered with gravel, and a cover made of a dense metal sheet is laid over it. Also, for the normal operation of the pit, a ventilation pipe is required. Such a drain from the bath into the barrel can function without problems for ten years.

Arrangement of a drain pit behind a bath

There is a widespread belief that the most effective is the drain from the bath outside. The main argument in favor of this opinion is the fact that the soil dries very slowly even in summer, and even in winter the water freezes completely, as a result of which the floor in the steam room will be cold throughout the season.

However, there is also the opposite statement, according to which, with a rare use of the bath, such problems can not be feared. Also, it is often added to this that you can pick up coarse sand in which water will not stagnate.

In the end, the choice will remain individual, but when it comes to creating a pit, then you can use a popular scheme, which requires old car wheels, which are necessary for arranging the walls of the pit, and plastic pipes connected to the structure.

To prevent odor from entering the room, you need to create a water seal, which will require the following steps:

You need to pick up a plastic bucket with a volume of 5 liters. A metal pipe is laid across the pit on the lower part of the wheel located closer to the top of the structure. A bucket is hung to the pipe using a handle made of galvanized tape.
The edge of the sewer pipe is closed with a corrugation, which is launched directly into the bucket. Due to the water in the bucket, the hydraulic seal will function.

Choosing a system for a large number of people

You need to understand that with a different number of visitors to the bath, different requirements are imposed on the water drainage system, which determine where the water goes from the bath:

For a small number of people using the bath, a simple drain pit located under the foundation is quite suitable.
For a large number of visitors, a separate pit will be required, to which a pipe is connected. See also: "".

As practice shows, the best option for most cases is a septic tank, which will perform the functions of collecting and purifying waste water. To learn more about such designs, it is worth reading a couple of articles about what a septic tank is, how to make it and where to use it.

Conclusion

Creating a good drain for a bath in the country is easy. The most important thing in this matter is to decide in advance how actively the bath will be used, and build on this indicator when creating a drainage system.

Whatever the size of the bath, it needs an organized removal of liquid effluents. For those who are interested in how to make a drain in a bath, you need to understand that the construction of a drain will be the best way out.

By adhering to building codes, you can protect yourself from fungi and unpleasant odors.

By definition, there are two ways:

construction of a simple drainage;
arrangement of a high-quality diversion system.

In the first option, all drains go into the sump on their own. Therefore, the floor covering must have a good density and be installed with a slope (in some cases, a drain hole is provided). Under it is placed a gutter made of asbestos or metal.

The tray is mounted between the steam room and the washing room, flowing into the drainage well. As the instructions indicate, such wells break out at a distance from the bath. The size of the wells depends on how many people will use the drain.

Speaking about how to properly make a drain in the bath, experts give some advice:

The well should be deepened to the level of soil freezing. A layer of drainage expanded clay is poured inside the finished pit, slightly above the freezing point. The rest of the space is covered with earth and compacted;

If water is absorbed by the soil with difficulty, it is advisable to start digging a pit - an additional small hole from which the accumulated water is discharged outside the site through a drain outlet. The pipe is dug in above the bottom of the pit.

Floors in the bath

Speaking about how to make a drain under the bath, you should consider the way the flooring is laid. They can be laid directly on the joists (with a 5 mm gap). If necessary, they can be removed and dried. Sometimes, the floors are installed thoroughly, under a certain degree.

A ventilation riser is being built - a metal or asbestos device. The upper end is supplied with a special cap. The drainage system needs periodic cleaning (just like risers).

The procedure consists of several stages. First, preliminary mechanical cleaning is carried out (precipitates and lime are separated). Then the filtration-biological treatment takes place.

At the second stage, filtration occurs in wells, pits, or in the soil itself.

Ways to organize the drain of water from the bath

To date, there are several options for removing water. All of them are not very expensive, but they have sufficient efficiency.

Since the construction of the latter does not present any particular difficulties, they can be built with your own hands:

a system that includes a drain pit and a septic tank. Expanded clay, broken brick is used as its filler. Microorganisms purify water, after cleaning it can be watered with plants on the site;
well construction. Risers are arranged in this tank, where sewage accumulates. In the future, periodic pumping of waste and their removal are needed.

The downside is that it is necessary, from time to time, to call special vacuum trucks (the price of such services is rather big), for which you need to provide travel. In addition, the well breaks out at the lowest point of the site;

variant in which natural ground filtration is used. Here, wastewater ends up in a filtration well without a bottom, on the basis of which layers of loading-filtrate are filled up. Water, passing through them, is purified, and then absorbed into the soil over a large area. The downside is that you have to lay pipes throughout the site, which will be expensive.

Note!
Sometimes, a built bath can do without a sewer system at all.
However, if the pipes run in close proximity to it, there is nothing easier than connecting to a common pipe.

Drainage pit construction

Before you make a drain from the bath, you need to clearly define where the tank will be located. Experience tells us that it is advisable to place the object 2 meters from the bathhouse; at a greater distance, laying pipes with a slope for gravity flow will result in high costs. In the case of a closer location, subsidence or wetting of the foundation is possible.

The pit is built based on the type of soil. If the earth does not crumble, then the edges of the pit can not be strengthened. One has only to dig a hole and fill it with filtrates.

The main thing is that the soil absorbs water well. To do this, the bottom of the pit is covered with rubble, expanded clay or broken brick, and then with sand.

With loose soil, the pit must be fastened around the edges. A brick is used as a reinforcing material (enough to make the walls half a brick thick).

In some cases, a wild stone will do. It is necessary to make a number of gaps through which water will leave.

How to make a drain in the bath - there is nothing easier. Metal or plastic barrels will fit as a tank, holes are made in their walls and the bottom is removed. The best option for such a tank would be a cylinder. Large holes do not need to be made so that rubble does not get stuck in them, everything is covered from above with a lid made of iron or concrete.

Advice!
located at considerable depth.
Otherwise, groundwater will always be present in the pit, and drains simply will not fit there.

How to make a drain for a bath?

The order is this:

as soon as the walls of the pit are ready, crushed stone, broken brick, expanded clay are poured there;
in the future, everything is covered with sand;
ready with a slope along which water will go. Enough 1 centimeter difference per linear meter;
if a square hole is dug, then sheet, wave slate is placed in it. The sheets are stacked so that the waves are at right angles to each other;
system is ready.

Conclusion

Experience says that sewage should be simple and reliable so that it is convenient to use. It is only important to carefully consider all stages of future construction. After studying the video in this article, you can get complete information on this topic.

How to make a drain in the bath? This issue should be a priority, since the duration of the operation of the bath, protection of the foundation from fungus and unpleasant odors, comfort and ease of use will depend on the correct construction of this structure.

To date, experts offer several options for how to make a floor in a bath with a drain, and each of them can be done by hand.

Ground filtration - the easiest and cheapest way

Drainage of water in the bath during ground filtration will be carried out directly into the ground. Choosing this method, you need to consider the following factors:

Foundation safety. Most often, a bath is built on a strip foundation, so draining water from a bath under the floor can lead to its destruction, and constant moisture will become an excellent breeding ground for fungus.
Soil composition. If the soil has a clay base, then it will be impossible to drain the water from the bath. Natural absorption will be minimal, water will constantly collect under the floor.
Terrain relief. If the site is sloped, then this can lead to water remaining in one part of the foundation and cause its rapid destruction.

If a soil filtration system for a bath is chosen, then the best option would be to equip a soil purification well for water.

Drain well from a car tire

Craftsmen argue that the use of expensive sewer systems in summer cottages is not always justified. If the cottage is not used for permanent residence, then you can build a drain from an ordinary car tire. Using the above guide, you can complete the task in one day.

For a drain pit, you need to take car tires from KAMAZ or UAZ vehicles. Having determined the size of the tires, you need to dig a drain hole. Car tires will be stacked on top of each other.

Drainage is poured at the bottom of such a well. The sewer pipe, which is located between the floors of the bath, is brought to the wheels, into a hole cut in advance.

As practice shows, tire wells are ideal for any terrain, as they do not freeze through and serve for a long period.

Drainage channel - the best choice

Many experts say that in the country it is possible to build a bathhouse with a drain - a drainage channel.

The drain system will work according to the following principle: water flows by gravity into the sump through a metal gutter located in the floors. From the gutter, water enters the sewer pipe, which ends in a drainage well.

When making a drain in the bath with your own hands, it is worth remembering such important points:

soil freezing level. The bottom of the well should be below the level, while the bottom must be covered with expanded clay.
In order to prevent freezing of the sewer pipe, it is worthwhile to fill up the expanded clay above the freezing point, covering it with earth on top. The poured earth must be rammed.
The choice of material for the floor. Many experts advise using floorboards, as they can always be dried. If the flooring is made capital, then it should be with a slight slope towards the built-in drain.
When choosing a drainage channel, it is worth remembering the ventilation drain. It is made next to the drain, while the diameter of the ventilation pipe must be at least 10 cm.

Internal sewerage

Internal sewerage is the best choice for a drain system in a bath. It is necessary to install such a drain even at the construction stage of the structure.

The scheme of work execution is as follows:

Small trenches are dug with a slope of at least 2 cm per linear meter. The optimal depth of trenches is 0.5-0.6 m.
The bottom of the dug ditches should be covered with a sand cushion. Its height is 15 cm. When filling the pillow on your own, it is worth remembering the slope and careful tamping.
Pipe laying. When performing this stage of work, it is necessary to provide for the presence of all connections.
Internal sewerage schemes provide for a drain for the toilet. It is necessarily attached to the wall with clamps, ventilation equipment is supplied to it. The pipe for the toilet must be above the level of the sanitary equipment and have a check valve.
When the internal sewerage is assembled, proceed to the flooring. Sewer outlets must be provided with grates so that water can freely enter the gutters and large debris remains on the floor.

Performing the internal sewerage of the bath with your own hands, it is worthwhile to provide for the presence of water seals in all areas of the water intakes. This will help to avoid unpleasant odors inside the room.

Drain well options

The system for draining waste from the bath also includes a drain well. Experts offer several ways to equip such wells.

It can be plastic or metal containers, reinforced concrete structures. The main condition for the proper functioning of the structure is the chosen place. The drain well should be at the lowest point on the site so that water can flow by gravity from the bath. When choosing a place for a future construction, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of an unobstructed entrance for a sewage truck.

How to make a drain well?

You need to dig a hole. This process is carried out independently or an excavator is called. The dug hole should have smooth edges, not crumble.
Bottom preparation. In order to subsequently easily and freely clean the bottom, it must be done at a slight slope towards the hatch. A pillow of sand and a layer of concrete are laid at the bottom of the pit.
When the bottom of the concrete dries, you can proceed to laying the walls of brick. The best choice would be red brick. The thickness of the masonry should not be less than 0.25 m. When laying, it is worth leaving a hole for the entrance of the sewer pipe.
Brickwork must be carefully sealed.
A hatch is installed on the completed well and covered with soil so that there is only one hatch on the surface.

If it is possible to buy reinforced concrete rings for the well, then this will speed up and facilitate the work process.

Drain structures in the bath are systems without which it does not function.

Draining water in the bath with your own hands: how to do it right, device

How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

When building a bath, it is imperative to arrange a high-quality drain. In this case, the smell from stagnant water will not subsequently enter the room. Floors will last much longer. There are several options for arranging a system for draining water from a washing and steam room. We will tell about them further.

The simplest drain in the bath

First, let's see how to make a drain in a bath of the simplest design. In the event that the soil under the building is sandy and easily absorbs water, you can not “bother” and arrange the receiver right in it. At the same time, a hole is dug under the sink, and the floors are made slightly inclined towards it. In order to prevent an unpleasant smell from penetrating the bath, vent holes are made in the foundation. However, more often the drain has a more complex design. In this case, when pouring the foundation, if it is tape, a hole is left in it for the drainage pipe.

Trench and drain pipe

Under the pipe through which the water will drain, of course, you will need to dig a trench. Do not arrange too long drain.

It is also not necessary to dig a drainage well or install a septic tank very close to the foundation. The optimal distance from the walls of the bath to the receiver is 1-3 m. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the trench. The question of how to make a drain in the bath comes down, among other things, to what pipe material and diameter should be used. Usually, plastic ones are taken for the water drainage device. A steel drain will quickly rust. The diameter of the pipe depends on how many people will bathe in the washing room at the same time. The minimum allowable is 50 mm. The trench must be dug at an angle. The steeper the pipe is inclined, the better.

well receiver

How to make a drain in the bath, we found out. Where will the used water go? As a receiver, an ordinary well is most often arranged. Its depth should be at least 1.5 meters. The diameter depends on the amount of water received. One person spends in the bath about 20 liters of water per visit. Five people will thus consume 100 liters. For such an amount of water, a well diameter of one meter is enough. Next, the receiver must be half filled with expanded clay or crushed stone. The walls are coated with clay. From above, the well is covered with boards and covered with earth. The pipe should enter it at a distance of about 60-70 cm from the upper boundary of the soil. This will prevent the sewage from freezing in winter.

Receiver-septic tank

If desired, you can arrange near the bathhouse (photo below) not a well, but a simple septic tank. It is made from an ordinary standard plastic barrel. A hole is also dug beforehand. You need to dig down to the sandy layer of soil. Usually it is located at a depth of 1-1.5 meters. Further, as in the first case, a layer of rubble is poured onto the bottom. It must be tamped down.

A hole is drilled in the side of the barrel for a pipe, which will subsequently be attached to the drain pipe. Any septic tank must be connected to the open air. To ensure air exchange, a hole is drilled in the middle of the barrel for an exhaust pipe of small diameter. If this is not done, with an increase in air pressure in the barrel during the inflow of water, it will simply be squeezed out through the drain pipe into the bath room along with an unpleasant odor.

Next, a pipe is inserted into the side hole, and an exhaust pipe is mounted in the cut out in the bottom. Then the barrel is placed upside down in the pit. Then the socket of the pipe is put on a pipe coming out of the ground, through which the water is drained from the bath. Even if the rubble at the bottom of the pit is compacted very carefully, the barrel can still sag over time. To prevent the pipe from slipping off the pipe, it is drilled to it on the sides with two self-tapping screws. After installation, the space between the walls of the barrel and the walls of the pit is covered with rubble. Next, the structure is sprinkled with earth.

Since the septic tank is outside, someone can step on it from above. Therefore, in order to prevent the bottom of the barrel from being squeezed, it should be covered with boards or a piece of thick tin before backfilling.

Drain device in the bath itself

Drainage in the floor of the bath can be arranged in several ways. In any case, the soil under the floor is concreted with a slope towards the pipe. A small receiving pit-tray is arranged around it. This is necessary so that the water leaves the bath faster. The floors are laid on the logs. The latter are placed on concrete or brick square columns erected on this concrete base. From above, the logs must be waterproofed with mastic or roofing material. Next, mount the floor boards. Sometimes they are not nailed, but simply laid with a distance of 5 mm from each other. Water flows into these cracks. From time to time, the boards are removed and dried in the open air. Such floors are called leaky.

Of course, such a floor device is not very convenient. Firstly, when walking, the boards will move, and secondly, in winter, cold air will flow from the cracks. Therefore, the floors in the bath are often made capital.

Tiled floor in the bath

Sometimes a tiled floor device can also be used. Baths are also used to relax and unwind. And since ceramics is a slippery material, and, moreover, it also heats up at high temperatures, it is usually additionally covered with wooden shields for ease of movement. From below, so that the surface of the latter is horizontal, bars of different thicknesses are stuffed. Like leaking wood floors, these boards get dried out from time to time.

Clay floor in the bath

The clay version of the coating is also a rather interesting floor device. It is quite pleasant to walk in baths with such a finish, since this material has a very low degree of thermal conductivity. In this case, instead of a concrete solution, a clay mixture is simply used. However, such floors have one significant drawback. When wet, the clay swells noticeably. After drying, it takes on its original dimensions, while cracking strongly. Subsequently, water begins to stagnate in the cracks. As a result, an unpleasant odor appears in the bath.

Water seal device

This is how the floor is made. It is pleasant to go to baths with any of these coating options only if there is a so-called water seal. Without it, cold and bad-smelling air from the receiving pipe may begin to enter the room. A water seal can be made by simply installing a special plastic cup with legs on the pipe that goes into the tray. Entering the receiver, the water will lift it and go into the drain. Air will not enter the bath from the pipe. The receiving tray should be closed with a grill. This will prevent leaves from brooms and other debris from getting into the drain.

Insulated floor in the bath

If you intend to use the bath in the winter, it is worth arranging insulated floors in it. In this case, a draft floor is first stuffed, on which expanded clay is poured or expanded polystyrene is laid. In the middle, a receiving chute is carried out. Next, a finishing floor is stuffed onto the logs of different heights. It should be with a slope of the boards from the walls to the gutter. Before backfilling expanded clay, the subfloor is covered with a vapor barrier. On top of the insulation, waterproofing is laid. The gaps between the boards of the finishing floor are sealed. Expanded clay for insulation is suitable only mixed - at least from two fractions of different sizes.

Screed insulation

Thus, we have found out how to make a drain in the bath and what the floors should be like. Now let's look at how to properly make a concrete base for coating. Before pouring it, the soil is carefully tamped, arranging a slight slope towards the receiver-tray. After that, a layer of rubble about 10-15 cm is poured on it. The foundation should be protected by laying a layer of clay around it. Then everything is poured with concrete. If desired, floor insulation can be arranged at this stage. In this case, a thin screed is poured over the rubble. A layer of expanded clay is poured on it. Next, the main concrete floor is poured. This layer must be reinforced. The easiest way is to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. After pouring, the concrete surface must be leveled as carefully as possible with a board.

How to prepare a concrete solution

Of course, the concrete floor of the bath should be as reliable as possible. Therefore, the solution should be prepared strictly adhering to the established technology. Sand must be taken large and necessarily sifted. Cement for the device of a concrete bath floor is used only the highest grades. M400 is the best. Kneading is done in a ratio of 1:3. Mix the ingredients as thoroughly as possible. It is best to do this using special equipment. It is very difficult to prepare a homogeneous composition manually. The presence of non-mixed parts noticeably weakens the flooded structure.

Shower in the bath

Showers in the bath suit quite rarely. Its simplest option is an ordinary bucket suspended above the entrance to the steam room. However, you can use other, structurally simple, but somewhat more “advanced” options. After all, contrasting water procedures are actually very useful. You can, for example, install a tank on the ceiling and bring a branch pipe into the bathhouse from the ceiling. Next, a regular watering can is connected to it. Water can be pumped into the tank from a well through a hose. The shower drain in this case can be arranged according to the same principle as the main bath. Most often, the used water simply leaves the bath through a common receiver.

Bath device diagrams

A drain is not the only feature of such an unusual building as a bathhouse. It will be convenient only if the layout of the location of its premises is correct. Therefore, finally, let's consider what the bath scheme should be. There are many options for the location of the steam room, washing and changing rooms. If you wish, you can develop your own project. However, it is worth observing some basic rules:

The stove is best placed in the middle of the building, so that it is possible to heat not only the steam room and washing room, but also the locker room. Otherwise, it will be cold to dress in winter after visiting the bath. If the building is large, it is worth arranging two ovens.
Even in a very small bath, it is desirable to equip a vestibule with an area of at least a square meter. If the front door is located too close to the street, in winter it will begin to freeze to the frame due to condensation.
If in the future it is planned to arrange gatherings with beer in the bathhouse, it is worth allocating a little space for the toilet.

Bath room dimensions

The scheme of the bath, of course, should include such information as the size of its premises. When drawing up a project, it is worth considering their minimum allowable area per person:

Based on these figures and knowing how many people will wash at the same time, it will not be difficult to calculate the required area of the building.

How to rationally arrange rooms

Most often, two entrances are arranged in the vestibule: one to the washing room, behind which there is a steam room, the second to the locker room. This is really the most convenient scheme. In small bathhouses, the vestibule usually also serves as a dressing room. To finally decide on what the building should be, you can view different drawings of the bath. One of them is presented to your attention on this page a little higher. And this is how saunas are built in Europe:

Thus, by properly planning, arranging a good drain, and also performing all other work with strict observance of the established technologies, you can build a comfortable and durable bathhouse in a suburban area. If there is no particular desire to build something on your own, you can order a service from a construction organization such as a turnkey bath. In this case, our recommendations will help you control the work of the hired team.

How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

How to make a drain in the bath, many owners of country houses would probably like to know. After all, the convenience of taking water procedures depends on how well it will be arranged. There are several ways to dispose of used water.

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands

There are many options for draining used water from a bathhouse, which practically do not require financial investments and connection to a central sewer. A carefully thought-out drain in the bath will ensure the durability of the floors and foundations, and prevent the appearance of fungus on the walls.

Recommendations for arranging a floor with a drain for a bath

The creation of a drain system inside the bath begins at the stage of manufacturing floors. Water will quickly leave the room if the floor is built according to the recommendations:

To drain liquid from the room, install a drain pipe in the floor of the bath (usually in the washing room).

Sewer system outside the bath

The following factors influence the choice of drainage method:

Soil composition.

In addition, the risk of contamination of the site with dirty bath water should be taken into account. A large amount of fat, suspended particles, detergents can contaminate the area around the bath, an unpleasant smell will be felt in the room and an uncomfortable atmosphere will be created. Consumers can choose one of two ways to dispose of dirty water - draining sewage into the ground next to the bath or collecting it in an airtight container and transporting it outside the site.

Drainage of water into the ground under the bath

The simplest option for draining is to drain water into the ground under the building. Usually this is how they get rid of water in the summer. Even when building a foundation under the sink, dig a shallow hole and fill it with a sand and gravel mixture. During the construction of the floor, bring the drain pipe right there. In this case, drain pipes are not installed. After washing the bath room should be thoroughly dried.

For structures erected on a strip foundation, this method poses a certain danger. The strip foundation is built using a concrete mix that absorbs moisture well. A small amount of sewage next to it will not affect the structure of the concrete, but intensive use of the bath can affect the strength of the foundation. Therefore, water is drained under the bath, if the number of washers is not more than three.

Drainage type sewerage for a bath

This method of drainage is used on soils that are well permeable to liquids, and in the case when groundwater is deep.

At a distance of 1–1.5 m from the foundation, dig a hole 50 cm deeper than the freezing level. The minimum diameter of the hole is 1 m (for a small number of washers).

This option is useful for those who are interested in how to make a drain in the bath at minimal cost.

Using a filtration well for draining a bath

There are few microorganisms in wastewater that cause a fermentation reaction, it is easier to clean. Therefore, drains can be collected in special wells for self-cleaning. A well is built no closer than 3-5 m from the wall of the bath. Find out in advance the depth of soil freezing.

Dig a hole 50 cm deeper than the freezing point. Set the horizontal dimensions at your discretion, usually the dimensions are determined by the diameter of the concrete pipe, which is installed in the pit to protect it from crumbling soil.

When laying pipes in a trench, comply with the following requirements:

The pipe must be free of turns to avoid clogging.

Drainage of water from the bath into a sealed drain pit

According to the requirements of the sanitary and epidemiological service, sewage cannot be poured into the ground without treatment. However, there is a rule that allows you to make a floor in a bath with a drain without violating the environment - with a volume of drains of less than 1 cubic meter. m. per day. After all, who measures these drains. Instead of a drain pit without a bottom, it is required to make a sealed pit if the following reasons occur: the distance between the pit and the bath is less than 5 m, from the pit to the fence - less than 2 m, if it is impossible to build a pit deeper than the water intake level.

It is built at the lowest point of the site so that the water flows by gravity.

A sealed drain pit can be made by hand in the following sequence:

Dig a pit 2–2.5 m deep and the same size in a horizontal plane.

Using septic tanks for drains from the bath

The sewer system needs to be cleaned periodically. The most practical cleaning method is septic, which does not require the use of sewage trucks. Usually this method is used for frequent use of the bath, when large companies wash, or if there is a bathroom in the room. A large amount of sewage can quickly pollute the area near the building.

At a distance of at least 1.5 m from the wall of the bath, dig a hole 2–2.5 m deep, but it can be deeper.

Do-it-yourself water lock for a bath

To prevent cold air and unpleasant sewer odors from entering the bathhouse in winter, the drain device in the bathhouse is equipped with a water seal. It can be made from improvised means and installed in a drain pit in the following sequence:

Replace the handle on the plastic bucket with a metal one that can be made from galvanized iron.

Fulfillment of simple requirements will allow you to create an effective drainage system. The festive mood with which visitors come to the bathhouse is largely supported by the quality of the sewer system.

Do-it-yourself organization of a drain in a bath

The correct approach to organizing the discharge of wastewater from the bath involves compliance with building codes during operation. We offer you a description of the designs of popular drainage systems that can be

How to make a drain in the bath

An integral part of the steam room is water. But so that it does not stagnate, it is important to know how to make a drain in the bath. In this case, certain nuances must be taken into account. For buildings that are on piles, a thoughtful approach will be required so that communications do not freeze. Depending on the load on the premises, different decisions will be made.

Even before construction

It is worth thinking about the sewerage system even before the laying of the foundation begins. In this case, it will be much easier to draw a conclusion. The following points should be analyzed:

What is the size of the planned building?
What is the frequency of its use?
How many people will be inside at the same time?
Will a toilet be installed?
Will the washing room be a separate room or combined with a steam room?
What is the depth of soil freezing?
What is the composition of the soil?
Is there a central sewer?
How much free territory is there around the bath?

This questionnaire will greatly simplify the creation of a gasket drawing, and will also provide an opportunity to determine which of the options that will be described below is best for a particular situation.

Briefly about the floors

A big role in how effectively all moisture will be removed from the steam room or washing room is played by the correct approach to the manufacture of the floor, as well as the drain hole. The flooring can be wood or concrete.

The essence of the leak is that a space is left between the boards through which water can simply merge under the building. This solution is suitable for the southern regions. In the second version, the boards are laid in two layers with tight joints. In this case, a slope is observed towards the groove or drain hole.

The concrete floor must be insulated. If this is not done, then the legs will be very cold. When pouring, just as in the case of a non-leaking wooden floor, a slope is observed towards the drain hole or in the middle where the gutter will pass. Additionally, wooden gratings are laid on top to make it more comfortable for those staying in the room.

The ladder for different designs will also be different. If this is a bathhouse that is constantly heated, or it is known that the room does not freeze through, then you can install a product with a water damper. Usually it is located in the corner or in the middle, where all the liquid collects. Installing such a structure in a wooden floor will not be difficult:

Work is carried out before the final floor is installed.
The location of the drain hole is selected according to the slope of the surface.
Marking under the ladder is being made.
A hole is drilled so that a jigsaw file can be inserted. An opening is cut out for the product.
The entire surface of the floor is covered with a dense plastic film.
A slot is made in the place where the drain hole will be located.
The plastic drain is mounted in place.
The joints of the film are coated with silicone sealant.
Finished flooring is being produced.

Note! With this solution, even if water seeps somewhere under the floor, it will flow down the oilcloth to the drain point.

But most often baths are used less often, and if a similar design is made there, then this may be fraught with the fact that the water inside freezes and the product simply breaks apart. To prevent this from happening, you can make a ladder with a barrier without liquid. One of the solutions is easy to implement in a wooden bath, the other in a bath with a concrete floor.

You will need a small sheet of galvanized metal measuring 62 × 38 cm.
It must be marked as follows: from each edge, set aside 2 points at a distance of 10 cm. The points of the two sides must match so that a square with a side of 10 cm is obtained on the corner.
In the resulting squares, a diagonal is drawn from the corner to the point.
All points are connected by a line to form a rectangle inside. These marks will serve as our guide for the fold.
At a distance of 17 cm from the edge of the smaller side in the middle of the sheet, we make a notch. This will be the center of the hole for the pipe if it is 50 mm in diameter.
Now, along the lines drawn, it is necessary to bend this sheet to get a small trough.
The sharp edges sticking out on the sides are bent to the larger side.
A plastic or wooden plank is laid inside. In size, it should be 39 × 17 × 0.5 cm.
The capacity of this container is about 6 liters. When the water begins to drain, it lifts the bar and freely enters the hole. After the level drops, the plank falls into place and closes the hole. This is done so that there is no smell.
Even if it happens that the board freezes to the trough, then when hot liquid gets in, it quickly thaws.

Note! Such a drain mechanism will be very relevant for baths that stand on a pile or column foundation, when the temperature is below zero under the floor.

In order to implement the project, you will need a plastic or durable rubber ball.
When the floor is poured, it will need to be placed above the drain hole and drowned a little there. From above it can be pressed with something so that it does not move.
An additional slope is created around the ball.
In this position, the ball remains until the screed is completely solidified. After it is very simply separated from the frozen mixture.
It is he who will serve as a shutter. When the water begins to drain, it will lift the ball. After that, it will fall into place and close the hole, preventing the penetration of an unpleasant odor. This should not freeze, and if it does, it thaws quickly enough.

Simple water collection systems

The simplest solution for draining liquid would be a leaky floor solution.

A hole is dug under the steam room (or washing room, if they are not combined). Its dimensions will coincide with the area from which the water will drain.
You need to deepen it a little below the freezing of the soil. Sand is laid on the bottom in a layer of 10 cm and is well rammed.
The rest of the space is covered with gravel or expanded clay so that another 10 cm is left to the top. Everything is carefully rammed.
The rest of the space is filled with soil that has been dug.

Nothing more needs to be done. The liquid will fall into this hole, be filtered and go further into the soil.

Note! This design will be relevant if the bath is used no more than once a week and at the same time there are 3-4 people in it. In the case when the soil under the bath is clayey, then it will be necessary to make a transition pipe to the pit, which can be located a few meters from the bath.

To implement the following idea, you will need a plastic or metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters.

A place is chosen near the bath.
A hole is dug to a depth below freezing of the soil. Its diameter should be 30 cm larger than the diameter of the barrel. This is necessary for ease of installation.
A layer of sand of 10 cm is laid on the bottom and is well rammed.
For another 10 cm, a layer of fine gravel is laid and is also well rammed.
A hole is cut in the side wall for a pipe through which water will flow.
A hole is drilled in the bottom with a drill and a feather drill for 26 mm. It is necessary for the ventilation hose.
A nut is screwed onto the ¾” branch pipe and a sealing gasket is put on. It slips through the hole. Another gasket is put on and the whole structure is fixed with a second nut. An adapter is screwed onto the upper thread for a HDPE pipe, which will act as a ventilation pipe.
The barrel is placed upside down in the pit.
A drain pipe is connected. It is desirable that it go inside by 15‒20 cm. So, when the soil is displaced, it will not be pulled out.
Approximately to the middle of the pit, it is covered with gravel and rammed, but so as not to damage the barrel. The remaining space is filled with soil.

This disposal method is also suitable for non-clay soils. The capacity is quite enough for 5 people to take a bath at the same time once a week.

Systems in heavy use

In cases where the bath will be used more intensively or there will be a toilet in it, it is necessary to provide solutions thanks to which the system will cope with a large volume of liquid. If the building is located near a private house and VOCs are provided for it, then you can draw a conclusion directly to it. The fastest way to prepare a single-chamber septic tank or cesspool, for this you need:

Dig a pit. Its depth should be just over 3 meters so that 3 concrete rings can easily fit, and they do not reach the surface by 30 cm.
If the bottom is planned to be made filtering, then a sand bed of 20 cm is made, a layer of crushed stone of 30 cm is laid on top. Everything is well rammed. If not, then concrete is poured in a layer of 20 cm and the rings are immersed in it.
The walls can be strengthened in another way, for example, laid out of brick. In this case, it is necessary to make masonry with holes for water drainage.
A suitable hole is made to enter the sewer pipe.
From above, the pit is closed with a reinforced concrete slab.
A ventilation pipe is installed in the lid.

Such a septic tank is cleaned with a sewer. It must be positioned so that it has an entrance. The distance to the building must be at least 2 m. It is possible further, but then communications will have to be laid to a great depth.

In order to increase the interval between cleanings, you can make several cameras. In this case, the water will be cleaned more efficiently, and it will also be possible to increase the volume of average daily flows. The essence of the device is to make the first two containers hermetic according to the described method, and make the last one with a filter bottom. At the same time, they are connected to each other with the help of pipes. In the first and second compartments, heavy particles settle. There they are decomposed by bacteria. Partially purified water enters the third section, which then goes into the ground.

Alternatively, you can use plastic containers or buy a ready-made septic tank. Also, the output of wastewater from the last chamber can be carried out to the filtration fields. To do this, sufficient space must be available for their organization.

The most expensive option would be to install a ready-made system. All actions are carried out automatically. At the output, cleaning reaches 98%. Water is drained using a drainage pump. She can water the garden or vegetable garden, except for fruit and berry plants. The installation of such a unit comes down to preparing a pit and supplying a drain pipe. Electricity is also needed for the compressors. It can be located near sources of drinking water.

How to make a drain in the bath - wastewater disposal from the bath photo

Learn how to make a drain in the bath. The article describes possible options for a wastewater discharge device.

home > Metallurgy

What kind of drain is needed for a bath. Draining and draining water from a bath - how to lay a drain pipe under the floors and make a drainage

Varieties of wooden floor in the bath

Organization of the drain

Leaking floor

grooved board

The choice of the drain node

The main types of drain pits

Prices for septic tanks

Materials for arranging a drain pit for a bath

Drainage pit from barrels

Brick drain hole

Prices for metal barrels

Drainage pit made of concrete rings

Pit from old car tires

How to independently equip a drain pit for a bath

Soil survey at the site of the planned drain pit

Prices for concrete rings

Arrangement of a drain drainage pit - step by step

conventional drainage pit

Pit on the principle of a two-chamber septic tank with an output to the filtration field

Video: How to make a drain for a bath yourself, at minimal cost

Arrangement of a drain pipe

Ways to drain water from the bath

Arrangement of a simple funnel

Arrangement of a drain pit behind a bath

Choosing a system for a large number of people

Floors in the bath

Ways to organize the drain of water from the bath

Drainage pit construction

Conclusion

Ground filtration - the easiest and cheapest way

Drain well from a car tire

Drainage channel - the best choice

Internal sewerage

Drain well options

How to make a drain in the bath? Draining water from the bath: diagrams, drawings

The simplest drain in the bath

Trench and drain pipe

well receiver

Receiver-septic tank

Drain device in the bath itself

Tiled floor in the bath

Clay floor in the bath

Water seal device

Insulated floor in the bath

Screed insulation

How to prepare a concrete solution

Shower in the bath

Bath device diagrams

Bath room dimensions

How to rationally arrange rooms

How to make a drain in the bath with your own hands

Recommendations for arranging a floor with a drain for a bath

Sewer system outside the bath

Drainage of water into the ground under the bath

Drainage type sewerage for a bath

Using a filtration well for draining a bath

Drainage of water from the bath into a sealed drain pit

Using septic tanks for drains from the bath

Do-it-yourself water lock for a bath

How to make a drain in the bath

Even before construction

Briefly about the floors

Simple water collection systems

Systems in heavy use

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