How to collect plumbing in the country. Pumps for summer cottages - how to choose the right one, what they generally are

A well for water in the country is the main condition for the normal life of the site, housekeeping and the comfort of vacationers. We devoted this article to a story about how to establish water supply in a country house from a well with our own hands.

Water supply of the suburban area

System Composition

To establish a quality water supply country house and personal plot, it is necessary to solve a complex of problems. First of all, you should consider the configuration of the system and determine what elements it will include.

We want to present a standard system for today, which consists of several main nodes. The following table lists these nodes with a description:

Knot Composition Purpose and requirements
Water source Well, open spring or well The source must provide the volume of water of satisfactory quality necessary for farming
Water lifting equipment Submersible or surface pump, pumping station The pump must be powerful enough to lift water from the depth and deliver it to the end user, while providing the necessary pressure and performance.
External pipeline Water supply pipe to the house, water supply system for irrigation and technical needs Must ensure reliable passage of the calculated amount of water without leakage and pollution from the well to the house, as well as deliver water to the irrigation system
Storage capacity and automation Pressure tank, pressure switch with switch and pump start switch Security required pressure, protection of pumping equipment from frequent starts
Filtration system Coarse filter, fine filter Filtration of water to ensure the normal operation of equipment and plumbing, purification of water for drinking
Internal piping Collector or serial piping from the gyroaccumulator to each point of water consumption, fittings and plumbing equipment Distribution of water between points of consumption within the house
heating system electric boiler, geyser, boiler Heating water for hygiene needs, washing dishes and laundry, as well as for the needs of the heating system (optional)

Important!
When designing a water supply system, you must immediately take into account and calculate the drainage and treatment system.
Sewerage in summer cottages most often consists of discharge pipes and a septic tank system, sometimes they get by with a storage collector, which periodically cleans the sewer.

Previously, dacha cooperatives sometimes made an amelioration water supply system for plots, in which there was a pumping station and a surface pipeline that supplies water from a source to consumers. As a rule, a reservoir served as a source, and it was impossible to drink such water. In addition, the design assumed only summer use.

The water supply scheme we have considered at the dacha from the well assumes year-round uninterrupted water supply drinking quality not only for irrigation and household needs, but also to ensure the normal life of the whole house for the city. It will allow you to use the bathroom, bathroom, kitchen sink, washing machine and other amenities.

A source

The most important and significant node is the source of water supply.

There may be several options here:

  • Well . The most common and traditional source outside the city, it is distinguished by convenience, independence from the power supply and sufficient quality water, however, has a limited performance margin;
  • Spring. If you are a happy owner of a spring on or near the site, then you can power the supply system from it. Differs in water of high quality and degree of purification, as well as good performance and an almost inexhaustible supply;
  • Well on the sand. shallow well or abyssinian needle. It is similar in characteristics to a well, but less convenient and depends on the availability of electricity if there is no mechanical pump;
  • Artesian well. The highest quality source of water, the purity of which is unrivaled. Distinctive features are the high price of works and equipment, a good resource and high quality of raw materials, the need for permits and legal responsibility for the condition of the facility.

If you got a well from the previous owners of the site, you can use it. Find out from your neighbors what the quality of the water in their wells is, whether it is constantly available or disappears depending on the season and weather conditions, and after that feel free to proceed with the installation of the remaining nodes.

Important!
The well is convenient in that you can always get water with a simple bucket on a rope, regardless of pipeline or pumping equipment breakdowns, power outages and other circumstances.

A spring on the site is such a rare success that we will not consider this option. We consider that we were unlucky, and there is no spring nearby.

A sand well is the most acceptable type of well, as it does not require a too deep shaft and can be made by hand. As a rule, the bottomhole depth of such a well is from 10 to 35 meters, sometimes it is necessary to go down to 50 meters.

Advice!
If the groundwater level in your area is high, then you can make an Abyssinian source - a pipe with a needle and which is driven into the ground to the water level.

Artesian well worth big money. In addition, you will need to formalize it, having previously obtained permission from Rospotrebnadzor and the territorial Center for State Monitoring of the Subsoil Condition, since artesian water belongs to strategic reserves and is protected by the state.

For the same reason, you will be responsible for misuse wells and aquifer pollution.

Attention!
If your site is less than 60x60 m, then you can only get permission as an exception, and if it is less than 30x30 meters, then you will not see an artesian well.

Pump equipment

You will need a pump to lift water from the depth and supply it to the storage tank.

There are two types of well pumps:

  1. Submersible or deep. They are located at a depth under the water column and are able to provide its rise to a height of up to 150 meters, depending on the power;
  2. Surface. They are located on the surface and are able to raise water by a maximum of 8 meters, with an external ejector - up to 45 meters.

Deep units are considered more reliable and of high quality, however, they are more expensive. In addition, they are absolutely silent for the residents of the house, as they are located under water. The disadvantage is difficult maintenance and repair, the need for power supply to the well.

Surface pumps are relevant for shallow wells and wells located near the house. Now the most popular pumping stations are equipped with a hydraulic accumulator and automatic start / shutdown of the pump, depending on the pressure in the system. They are characterized by lower performance and noise problem, especially when installed inside the house.

System installation

It will take a lot of time and effort to independently establish water supply to the dacha from the well.

Our instructions will help you not to make mistakes and build the work correctly:

  1. First you need to make excavation and dig a trench at least 1.5 meters deep from the house to the water source. An insulated caisson should be equipped around the head of the well so that water does not rise above the freezing level;

  1. Then you should install the pump and adjust its operation, make a test run and pump the well;

  1. After installation deep pump the vertical pipe is brought out into the caisson, if the pump is surface, its outlet pipe is simply left untouched. In a trench on a sand cushion, a water supply pipe is laid, which is connected to a vertical pipe or pump outlet through an elbow or fitting;

  1. In the basement of the house, a hydraulic accumulator is installed for 60 - 200 liters, which is connected to a water supply pipe. A starter is also assembled nearby, which feeds the pump with electricity, the starter is powered through a pressure switch that controls the pressure in the accumulator tank using a pressure gauge. The hydraulic accumulator is connected to the collector internal system water supply;

  1. From the collector, pipes are routed to a water-heating boiler, bath, kitchen sink, toilet bowl, washstands and make a conclusion for watering. From the boiler, pipes for supplying hot water to the bath, sink and washstand are carried out;

  1. They start the pump and fill it, check the operation of the automatic start-up and shutdown system, the integrity and tightness of the pipes, the operation of the plumbing and the performance of the system. With all open taps, there should be normal pressure;

  1. If the test was successful, the trench is buried, having previously sealed the place where the pipe enters the well and the house.
  2. Excellent article 0

You can't do without plumbing in the country. Summer water supply - the most common water supply option summer cottages. Thanks to the summer water supply system, full-fledged watering of plants is ensured, time is saved, and work is facilitated. Using pipes made of new materials instead of traditional metal pipes makes plumbing much faster, easier and cheaper.

The summer version of the water supply is quite suitable for seasonal living in the country. Suitable for both irrigation and household appliances, supplying water to the shower, bath, swimming pool, brings comfort to country life. IN winter period its use is undesirable or not possible at all. Summer water supply is simpler and cheaper than year-round, but less durable.

What water sources are used for summer plumbing

The primary task in arranging a summer water supply is the choice of a water source.

Types of water sources for summer water supply:

  1. Central Highway.
  2. Well.
  3. Well.
  4. Natural reservoir.
  5. Rain water tank.

Central water supply

Perfect option. To connect to a steel main pipe directly under pressure, use an overhead tee (saddle). It is mounted on the entry point and secured with bolts. After that, a ball valve on a fumnit is mounted in it. A hole is drilled through the tap with a drill in the central pipe and the tap is immediately closed.

natural reservoirs

Reservoirs - river, lake, pond. The disadvantage of using open reservoirs for country water supply is the need to purify water from impurities.

wells

There are two types of wells designed for water intake - artesian and sandy.

A sand well will require filtration equipment due to the high content of sand and clay. The average water supply rate is about two cubic meters per hour, which is quite enough for summer cottages and small country houses.

Water in an artesian well rises to the surface under pressure. The resulting amount of water is 10 cubic meters per hour. An additional advantage of an artesian well is cleaner water due to deep drilling. Such wells are durable: on average, the service life is 50 years.

Well

The depth of the well depends on the level of groundwater and usually does not exceed 15 m. The disadvantages of the well include the content of many harmful impurities and a small supply of water - about 200 liters per hour.

Rain water tank

As reservoirs for collecting melt and rainwater, pools or artificial ponds, plastic and metal containers are used: tanks, barrels, vats. Drainage pipes are laid to them or drain roofing pipes are brought to them. Water from containers for the winter can not be drained, and so that the walls of the tank do not freeze, place several plastic bottles half filled with water or sand.

What are the summer water supply schemes

After the source of water is determined, you should decide which type of water supply to choose: year-round or only summer.

Summer water supply in a personal plot, dacha, garden is used for watering plants, filling an artificial reservoir, supplying water to a shower, bath, summer kitchen and other household needs. In winter, such a water supply system is not used.

Summer water supply is collapsible and permanent.

Summer collapsible plumbing

In the case of choosing a collapsible water supply, pipes or hoses simply lie on the ground or are raised above it. Such a water supply system is easy to assemble from ordinary silicone or rubber hoses by connecting them together with plastic or steel adapters.

There are special clamps on sale, which have a ribbed cone for the hose on one side, and a convenient elastic connector on the other, which allows you to connect and disconnect hoses in one motion. Such latches create a strong joint.

The advantages of summer collapsible water supply include:

  1. Quick assembly and disassembly.
  2. Quick search for a damaged pipe and repair of a hole.
  3. The cost of a collapsible water supply is lower than a stationary one.

Disadvantages of summer collapsible water supply:

  1. Pipes interfere with movement.
  2. High chance of theft.
  3. The need for assembly and disassembly at the beginning and end of the watering season.

Stationary summer water supply

Permanent water supply is laid underground. For these purposes, you can use thick-walled rubber hoses or plastic pipes. Plastic plumbing at their summer cottage is laid at an angle to the drain valve near the source of water supply. Before the onset of cold weather, the remaining water from the pipeline is completely pumped out to prevent freezing and damage to the pipes.

For a permanent summer water supply scheme, pipes are placed in the ground at a shallow depth, and water taps are brought to the surface.

Advantages of a stationary country water supply:

  1. The pipes are located underground and do not interfere with walking, transporting goods on a trolley.
  2. Installation of summer water supply is carried out once.
  3. The underground location of the pipes serves as protection against theft.
  4. Simple winterization of the system, just open the drain valve and release all the water.

The disadvantages of a stationary summer water supply are:

  1. Larger material costs than in the construction of a collapsible water supply.
  2. Time-consuming installation of water supply due to the need to dig trenches and lay pipes under a slope.
  3. Difficulties with finding and repairing a hole in the pipe.

How to plan a summer plumbing

Before purchasing pipes and proceeding with their assembly, it is necessary to think over a plan and draw up a preliminary drawing, specify all dimensions in detail. You should decide in advance: where to supply water, where the water intake points will be located, how many connections will be needed.

Then, with the help of pegs and twine, the future water pipeline is broken down into land plot, measure and calculate the required footage of pipes, the number of angles, tees, taps and other Supplies. In any case, a small supply of components will not hurt. A good plan is the key to success, saving effort, time and money.

The project should indicate the existing and planned underground communications, paths, buildings, plantings, especially if a permanent summer water supply scheme is being installed. When installing a stationary summer water supply, trenches are prepared for laying pipes. The depth of laying pipes is usually 30-40 cm.

However, if the pipes lie under the beds, and there is a possibility of damaging them with a shovel or cultivator, then the trench depth is increased to 50-70 cm. This is a laborious process, but replacing broken pipes and eliminating leaks is even more difficult. Pipes come to the surface of the earth only in places of water supply.

When planning a permanent water supply, it is important to remember that all pipes in the trench are laid at a slope towards the connection to the water intake. A drain valve is installed at the lowest part of the pipeline. This will drain the water for the winter and avoid damage to the pipes. It is necessary to determine in advance the places for supplying water.

The number of points of consumption depends on the location of the beds, greenhouses, summer showers, baths, pools. In order not to transfer the hose from place to place, it is more reasonable to bring pipes out at 5-10 points. Hose sections 3-5 m long are connected to such hydrants, which ensures watering of each individual zone. At all points of consumption, a bayonet is mounted for quick connection of a hose or an automatic spray system.

Before cutting off hoses or sawing pipes, you should carefully measure the required length with a tape measure, put marks with a marker, and only then proceed with cutting. This approach, according to the principle of measure seven times - cut once, will save you from annoying mistakes and additional costs.

What materials, devices and tools are required for arranging a summer water supply

For the installation of a summer water supply in a summer cottage, you will need the following materials and tools:

  1. Pipes and hoses.
  2. Fittings and tees.
  3. Compression couplings with external thread (20; 1/2).
  4. adjustable wrench, gas wrench, spanners № 17-24.
  5. A special cutter for plastic water pipes or a hacksaw for metal.
  6. Shovel.
  7. Soldering iron. If you plan to connect pipes by welding, instead of fittings and a gas wrench, use a special electric soldering iron. Soldering irons are inexpensive, and in some construction stores even available for rent.
  8. Ball valve 1/2.
  9. Corner compression 20 mm.
  10. Tee compression 20 mm.
  11. Saddle 63 (1/2).
  12. Fumnitka.
  13. Adjustable wrench, gas wrench and wrenches No. 17-24.
  14. sanding paper.
  15. Knife, tape measure, pencil.

Pipes

Pipes for assembling a summer water supply system on an average summer cottage with an area of ​​​​10 acres are preferably plastic or polyethylene (diameter 20-25 mm, length 100 m). Reliable uninterrupted water supply largely depends on the quality of the pipes. Green polypropylene pipes from Banninger with a diameter of 25 mm have proven themselves well. They are more expensive than traditional white pipes, but they are resistant to temperature changes and can even withstand frost.

Hoses

Hoses can be used instead of pipes.

Rubber hoses with thick walls reinforced with nylon fibers are stronger and more durable, they will reliably serve for 15 years.

Fittings and tees

The wiring of summer water pipes is carried out using tees, and special fittings are best suited for connecting plastic pipes. The use of fittings allows you to assemble a country water supply in just one day. In this case, the joint is sealed, and if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

Scheme of a collapsible summer water supply from hoses

The simplest design is summer water supply from flexible hoses. The collapsible hose system is quite simple. With the onset of heat, the hoses are connected to the pump and laid on the surface of the earth so that they do not interfere with free movement around the summer cottage.

Hoses are rubber and silicone. To connect them, use purchased or homemade devices: steel and plastic adapters, jumpers, pieces of pipes or special latches that allow you to quickly disconnect or connect two pieces of water supply. On the one hand they have a spring connector, and on the other - "ruff". This brace provides a strong and reliable connection.

Now they produce non-twisting hoses with special reinforcement. There are corrugated hoses that can stretch to a considerable length and are very compact when compressed.

Hoses and accessories for drip irrigation.

Basically, water supply from hoses is used for watering in the country. In autumn, the hoses and the pump are folded and put away into the room.

Summer plumbing assembly procedure

Determine where to place the leads: entrance to the greenhouse, parking lot, outdoor shower, washbasin, pool, flower garden, etc. The hose is more convenient to attach and remove at an intersection or on a wide path.

Measure the distance and calculate the required pipe length. For the arrangement of summer water supply, plastic or polyethylene pipes are best suited. It is convenient to connect them with flexible hoses. This design of the water supply, if necessary, is easy to redo. You can connect pipes with special plastic fittings or by soldering. In addition, to assemble a summer water supply, you will need tees, taps, corners.

It is advisable to dig pipes in order to preserve and increase their service life.

Check the pressure in the pipeline. If from a fully open tap water flows under good pressure, then pipes of small cross section - 20 mm are enough. At low pressure (less than 2 bar) do not install more than three output points, as they will not be able to work simultaneously. At low pressure, it is recommended to take a larger pipe - with a section of 25 mm. Larger pipes are also used in large areas with a length of more than 30 m.

As a rule, at the junction of the central line and the pipeline of the site, an inlet valve or valve with a diameter of 1/2 (marking 15) with an internal thread is installed.

The HDPE pipe is attached to the inlet valve with a coupling. If the tap is with an internal thread, then, accordingly, the coupling is with an external one, and vice versa.

A tee is placed at the fork in the pipe, from the tee - a piece of pipe, on which a hose is put on through a tap with an adapter. For a pipeline with a diameter of 20 mm, the kit is suitable:

  • coupling with external thread 20 mm to 3/4,
  • 3/4 tap with external or internal thread,
  • adapter for 3/4 hoses with female thread.

For pipes with a cross section of 25 mm, the following accessories are used:

  1. A crane from the same HDPE 25 to 3/4.
  2. Adapter for hoses with external thread 3/4.

You will also need:

  1. Coupling for inlet valve.
  2. Tees.
  3. Kits for fixing hoses at outlet points.
  4. Pipes.
  5. Fum-tape for sealing threaded connections.
  6. Elbows for installation at pipe bends.

Collect everything first threaded connections.

The main task when assembling threaded connections is to prevent leakage. In a threaded connection, on one side there is an external thread, on the other - an internal thread. A fum-tape is wound tightly and without folds along the external thread in 6-8 layers clockwise (the thread is turned up). Then the parts are screwed in, tightly pressing one to the other, trying not to warp. Then lightly tighten with a gas wrench.

For fixing in the coupling, the pipe is evenly cut with a knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw to get a smooth edge. Slightly loosen the clamping nut. Insert the pipe tightly. In this case, the pipe at a depth of approximately 5 cm first abuts against the rubber sealing ring inside the coupling. It is necessary to push the pipe another 2 cm further so that the pipe passes through the ring until it stops. Then tighten the clamping nut by hand.

The hose can be connected to the water supply using quick couplings. Couplings come in various modifications, the main thing is that they match the diameter of the hose. All kinds of watering guns, sprayers are sold complete with couplings.

Very handy couplers with aquastop, which shuts off the water when disconnecting or replacing watering or gun, eliminating the need to turn off the faucet.

Summer water supply can be equipped with a timer, and then watering will be carried out according to the schedule, even in the absence of the owners.

Plumbing for year-round use

Most often, water from a well is supplied using a submersible pump. Pump power is selected depending on the depth of the well. For a depth of 10 m, "aquarius" or "brook" is suitable. To draw water from a well, you will need a much more powerful pump.

When installing a year-round water supply in the country, the pump is connected to a voltage source, and the cable and water supply are laid together in a single casing assembled from plastic sewer pipes. The casing serves to protect the water supply from mechanical damage and freezing.

The depth of the trench for laying the water supply should be below the freezing level of the soil. Digging such a trench is a laborious task. You can make the task easier by digging a trench to a depth of 60 cm, and pour a layer of insulation 20-30 cm thick on top of the pipe. Sufficiently strong materials with low moisture absorption are used as insulation: foam chips, polyethylene, furnace slag, expanded clay .

A pit 70x70 cm and a depth of 1 m is dug near the well. The pit serves to connect the pump to the water supply, and, if necessary, quickly disconnect and remove the pump. The walls of the pit are lined with bricks or reinforced with antiseptic impregnated boards. The bottom is poured with concrete mortar or covered with rubble and compacted. A water pipe with a “ruff” for a hose connected to the pump, as well as an electric cable, is brought out and fixed into the pit.

To prevent the water in the pump hose from freezing, the pit is insulated. At the bottom of the water pipe make a small drainer with a diameter of about 1 mm, due to which the water in the water supply system slowly flows into the pit and does not freeze in winter.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the constant humidity in the pit and a slight loss of water.

To safely turn the pump on and off, install a waterproof socket or use a sealed contact connector.

In the conditions of the street, ordinary cranes with crane boxes are most often installed, and even better, bronze or cast-iron valves. It is undesirable to use ball valves; under the influence of precipitation and temperature fluctuations, they quickly fail.

The most complex node of the year-round water supply is the fountain node, located in unheated room. Most often, special devices are used for such purposes - water columns. A significant disadvantage of the column is the high cost of equipment and the complexity of installation.

How to install an autonomous water supply

If there is a central highway, then installing a summer water supply on your site is not difficult. Autonomous water supply is a more difficult task.

Ideally the scheme autonomous water supply make up in parallel with the design of the house and the site: determine the location of pipes and mechanisms, carry out a phased plan, calculate estimates, purchase equipment. For a boiler and water meter unit, a small room of 2-3 m² is usually allocated on the ground floor. It is convenient to monitor and regulate the process of water supply, if technical block and the water inlet unit are installed in the same room.

The autonomous water supply system includes the following equipment:

  1. Pipes (metal, metal-plastic, polypropylene).
  2. Fittings and taps.
  3. Water-lifting equipment (pumping station, submersible pump).
  4. pressure control devices plumbing system(pressure gauge, pressure switch, accumulator or expansion tank).
  5. Electrical equipment with automatic protection.
  6. Filters for water purification from harmful impurities and suspended particles.
  7. Water heater (preferably storage).

Installation of pumping equipment

A pre-prepared well, a capturing spring chamber, a well are used as a source of water. Each source has advantages and disadvantages. For example, in a well, the water is cleaner, but drilling is expensive. It is much cheaper to dig a well and install a submersible pump with a three-stage water filter.

There are the following types of pumping equipment for drawing water from a source:

  1. Submersible pump.
  2. Surface pump.
  3. Automatic pumping station.

Submersible pump

It is used at a water level of 20 m, it works silently. Pump models with a non-return valve additionally require a hydraulic accumulator, a filtration unit, an automatic unit and a dilution unit with fittings. For contaminated water sources, it is recommended to choose a pump with a stainless metal impeller.

Surface pump

They are used at a water level of less than 8 m. Installed indoors, connected to a well with a supply pipe.

Automatic pumping station

The electric motor and the hydraulic part are separated by a partition. A generator, diesel or gasoline, is used to pump out groundwater and irrigate the site. The station includes: a pump, a hydraulic accumulator and an automation unit. The hydraulic accumulator serves as a reserve tank and limits the frequent activation of the pump. Inexpensive stations are noisy, so it is better to install pump equipment new generation.

Installation of a stationary summer water supply

For a permanent structure, plastic or polyethylene HDPE pipes are used, which are connected with flexible hoses.

Such a connection allows you to easily and quickly redesign and improve the entire pipeline system. Another installation method is welding with an electric soldering iron or connecting with special plastic fittings. Pipes are laid in shallow grooves (30-35 cm) and fall asleep.

Only cranes are brought to the surface of the earth. Advantages: no obstruction when walking, mowing the lawn and using the trolley, more aesthetic appearance. If desired, pipes or hoses are easy to dig out and disassemble. The disadvantage of underground construction is that there is a possibility of accidental damage to the system during excavation.

To make it easy to drain water from the pipeline in autumn, create a slight slope for draining. A valve is installed in the lowest part of the water supply system: through which it is drained so that frozen water does not break pipes and hoses in winter.

It is especially important to ensure the safety of the electrical network. For this purpose, sealed connectors and waterproof sockets are used.

Plumbing of any type, summer collapsible or permanent, should be done in such a way that it is easy to eliminate unforeseen breakdowns without resorting to the complete dismantling of the plumbing.

How to assemble a summer water supply from plastic pipes

When arranging a summer water supply in conditions of positive air temperature and using only cold water Suitable for almost all types polypropylene pipes. The service life of PN-10 pipes, designed to supply water with a temperature of 30 ° C and an operating pressure of 11.1 kgf / cm 2, is 50 years; pipes PN-20, designed to transport hot water 60 ° C at an operating pressure of 10.9 kgf / cm 2, will last even longer.

The main part of the summer water supply is best made from 25 mm pipes. Pipes of smaller diameter do not provide structural rigidity. Pipes 2 m long fit easily on the trunk of a car. For the assembly of the water supply, straight and angled couplings are used. It is advisable to install a coarse filter at the entrance to the main line in the form of a separate unit or combined with a ball valve.

Summer water supply from HDPE pipes is the easiest to assemble and maintain. It is easy to assemble without special tools and does not deteriorate in winter (only the taps remain fully open for the winter).

To quickly disconnect the entire water supply from the central line, a coupling with a union nut, the so-called "American", is installed. Such a coupling allows, if necessary, to connect and disconnect both rigid and flexible lines without touching the threaded connections in other parts of the pipeline. It will take several releases to consolidate watering hose and a separate domestic outlet with 1/2 ball valves. Polypropylene pipes are connected to metal elements by means of combined transition fittings, which have a welding socket at one end and a thread at the other.

Pipes of 20 mm are quite suitable for supplying water to the shower room, they are fixed on the wall of the utility block with plastic clips at intervals of 1 m.

Almost all summer water pipes are freely laid directly on the surface of the earth. There is no need for special means of protecting pipes from temperature deformation and stress.

Drainage of water from all lines of the summer water supply is organized as simply and conveniently as possible. It is advisable to install standard tees with plug plugs in the lowest places of the pipeline.

How to prepare plastic pipes for summer plumbing

If the relief of the suburban area is uneven, when laying pipes in some places of the water supply system, excessive stress is created due to a slight bend. For elimination high blood pressure it is enough to slightly bend the pipe using building hair dryer with a special nozzle.

When assembling the system, it is necessary to adjust the polypropylene pipes to the required length. For cutting plastic pipes with a cross section of up to 40 mm, special scissors are used. There are scissors for cutting pipes with a diameter of up to 75mm. But most often for plastic pipes of 50 mm or more, a roller cutter is used.

When working with a cutter, additional processing of the ends of non-reinforced pipes is not required. If the installation volume is small, it is quite possible to cut plastic pipes with a conventional hacksaw, electric jigsaw or grinder.

Preparing trenches for summer plumbing

The next stage in the arrangement of the water supply is the preparation of the trench. Its depth depends on the location of the pipes: 15-20 cm is enough for the lawn, and 40-70 cm for the beds. They start digging from the water source, then lay all the pipes in the trench and securely connect them together. After laying and docking pipes, check the plumbing for leaks. It should not be allowed to bend the water supply in short sections due to the possible stagnation of water. Then proceed to the connection of water-folding devices.

Water intake devices

If the pipeline is designed to supply water to the greenhouse, then cast-iron or bronze valves and taps with axle boxes are installed. Ball valves are not recommended, as they fail quite quickly.

The water assembly is the most complex device in the plumbing. It is equipped in an unheated room or on the street. The standpipe is used less frequently due to complex installation and high cost.

How does a soldering iron for welding plastic pipes

On sale are soldering irons of domestic production of good quality and at a reasonable price, equipped with a convenient metal case, scissors for cutting pipes, a tape measure and gloves. There are also less expensive modifications - without additional equipment and with fewer nozzles.

Welding machine-soldering iron for polypropylene and polyethylene pipes consists of three main parts:

  1. Soldering iron with heating element (plate with heating element) and control unit (switches, temperature relay, indicators).
  2. Replaceable nozzles for heating pipes and fittings. They are bolted to the heating plate through special holes. The nozzles are made of aluminum alloy with anti-adhesion Teflon coating and require careful and careful handling. It is forbidden to clean them with metal brushes and abrasive products in order to avoid damage to the Teflon surface.
  3. Stand for fixing the device during welding.

How to weld polypropylene pipes correctly

Diffusion welding of polypropylene pipes occurs due to partial surface melting of the parts to be joined when heated using a welding machine. The operating temperature for welding polypropylene is 260°C. In order for the welding joint to be strong, the parts to be welded must have same properties. It is not recommended to weld pipes from different manufacturers.

Fittings and pipes of different brands differ in softening speed, diameter tolerance. The welding process itself is not complicated and takes a little time. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the time intervals allotted according to the instructions for each phase: heating - welding - cooling.

Both parts prepared for welding are simultaneously attached to the nozzles of the welding machine: the fitting is put on the mandrel nozzle, and the pipe is inserted into the coupling nozzle.

It is impossible to rotate and move the pipe and fitting during heating, so both parts are tried on relative to each other in advance and marked with colored markers for convenience. The heating time is counted after the completion of putting on the pipe and fitting on the nozzles.

At the end of heating, the parts are removed from the nozzles and connected: the end of the pipe is inserted all the way into the fitting socket. The countdown of the welding time starts from the moment the pipe is connected to the fitting. The connected parts are fixed and held motionless, preventing displacement during the welding time indicated in the instructions.

Do not cool parts with compressed air or cold water.

The final phase is the cooling of parts. During this period of time, until complete cooling and restoration of the mechanical strength of the parts, it is impossible to load the connection.

After the end of the cooling stage, they start welding the following joints or installing the assembled unit in the allotted place. After testing the plumbing system, the pipes are sprinkled with earth or left on the surface.

Leads with taps are installed throughout the site, on which a piece of hose of the required length is attached in one motion. With the help of a variety of sprinklers, you can simultaneously water in several places at once.

Rules for servicing the summer water supply system

Along with the indisputable advantages of summer water supply, ease and speed of assembly, cost-effectiveness, there are some disadvantages - for example, the need to drain water for the winter and observe the slope of the pipes to the connection point. Otherwise, the water will freeze in the pipes and a defect in the part of the water supply will form. To drain the water at the lowest point of the system, a special valve is mounted. It is necessary to choose the correct slope, otherwise the water pressure will be weak.

If the water supply is ground, disassemble the structure with subsequent storage indoors. It is necessary to periodically check the condition of pipes and connecting elements and, if necessary, replace individual parts.

When arranging a permanent summer water supply, pipes and hoses are laid in the ground, with taps and switches brought to the surface. There is no need to dig the structure to a great depth. It is enough just to fill the pipeline with earth to ensure its safety and not create obstacles for walking.

What will be the summer plumbing in the country - the simplest circuit from improvised materials or modern design with automatic control - everyone chooses for himself. In any case, the arrangement of the water supply system at the dacha will fully justify the efforts made and the funds spent. To paraphrase a classic: plumbing is not a luxury, but a means for irrigation. Thanks to the summer pipeline, water is supplied to the farthest corners of the garden, and then you can forget about heavy buckets and watering cans and spend your free time with family and friends.

Here, as in the well-known proverb, you need to measure everything seven times, that is, calculate in advance how much water you will need for normal living at the dacha of the whole family, and do this even with a small margin.

The calculation should be made taking into account all points of water consumption and water intake, taking into account the amount of their constant use by all family members. The most water-consuming objects should also be taken into account - a sauna, a bathhouse, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allotted for growing vegetables, orchard which in some regions is now difficult to grow without irrigation.

With each liter of water counted in water consumption, the proposed future source of water supply should also become more abundant.

When locating a water supply source, be sure to take into account the fact that every ten meters of the pipeline will reduce the pump head by 1 meter. This is necessary so that water can be delivered to the most remote corners of the site.

With a small flow of water - for example, if you use the house only as a summer home and a place to relax, you can make a shaft well. It is easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and all the work on its device is easy to do with your own hands. It is fed with water at the expense of groundwater, the depth of which varies from 4 to 15 meters.

Device mine well the simplest: head above the ground, underground reinforced concrete rings or a frame made of wooden beam thick, usually 25 cm.

The shaft of such a country well should be deepened into the aquifer by 3, and even better by four meters. Layers of sand, gravel, crushed stone are alternately covered at the bottom of the mine well, each of which should be 20-25 centimeters thick, subsequently they will act as a natural filter for purifying incoming water. Many, in addition to the bottom flow of water, also make holes in the concrete rings so that it comes from the sides. Then set to the bottom.

The amount of water that a shaft-type well can provide cannot, of course, be calculated in advance. This can be done after its construction - for this, the initial volume of water that has entered it by gravity is calculated, after which it is pumped out by a pump and the time is measured after which it will be filled again to the previous level.

In principle, there is always enough of it for a normal water supply of a summer house, they also dry up extremely rarely, in my practice of a “shabashnik” this happened only a few times, and even then after pumping out the water and cleaning, disinfecting the well, the water began to flow again.

If groundwater is deep

If a suitable aquifer is located at a depth of more than 15 meters and deeper, then the option with a well is eliminated, in which case a well will have to be drilled. They are drilled "on sand" and "on limestone".

Let's explain:

Drilling a well in sand is much faster, much cheaper, and so much easier that if you borrow a tool from someone, even an inexperienced person can handle this job.

To construct a well in sand, only a pump, a filter mesh, and a casing steel pipe with a diameter of 125-133 mm will be needed.

Drilling a well "on the sand" takes no more than two days. Such a well will provide you with a volume of water equal to a cube per hour. This is not much, but quite enough for most owners of a personal plot.

Among the disadvantages of drilling a well “on sand”, it can be noted that the water from it is not very clean, and, therefore, the well will “silt up” over time. As a rule, even with its not very intensive use, the life of the well "on sand" is 4-5 years.

An artesian well or a “limestone” well is expensive, takes a long time, 90% of summer residents will not be able to drill it on their own, but ... It lasts a long time, from 30 to 75 years (depending on the amount and concentration of suspensions) and can give out “to the mountain” from 5 to 100 cubic meters of water per hour (at a depth of 30 meters).

Drilling artesian wells or wells "on limestone"

The most commonly used method is to run the casing to the limestone layer through the clay layers. The next stage is the “opening” of the limestone layer, which is drilled with the so-called “open hole”, to the very aquifer.

In order to avoid damage to the rock, through which surface water can penetrate deep into, grouting is used, which consists in pouring a small volume of cement-sand mortar through a special steel pipe upon reaching the limestone layer. There is such a peculiar filling of cracks through which contaminated surface water could get into the "artesian".

By the way, the water contained in limestone (from 30 m and deeper) is no longer groundwater, but artesian water. To get it, you need to get permission from the authorities. Work can only be carried out by a specialized licensed company.

This type of wells is even required to obtain a special "well passport".

Using the so-called European well drilling technology (so-called because the same technology was used a long time ago in some regions of the USSR), the well device is of a two-pipe nature.

The first pipe with a large diameter stands on the limestone itself, after which a well is drilled with a final, working diameter. In order to avoid contamination of the artesian well surface waters between the two types of used pipes, a sealing plug is made of compactonite clay.

Such a well will cost more than an ordinary one-pipe well by more than 50%. As a rule, several neighbors drill them together, but even that comes out all the same expensive. Their very existence at such a cost is explained very high quality water.

Lifting water from a well or well

So, we got to the rise of water from a well or well. To establish the supply of water from a not very deep mine well, the vast majority of summer residents use surface pumps.

The main condition for their use is the distance from the water source to the house: in most designs of such pumps, it cannot be more than 50 meters (or rather, it can - there will be no sense).

If the well is deep, or a filter well is used to extract water, these are the same surface pumps, but already ejector ones. More often, submersible well pumps are used, which can easily “master” a distance of 40 meters (depth).

Well, if you are a happy owner of an artesian well, then you have to use a submersible borehole pump, which is quite capable of lifting water from a depth of 100 meters.

If there is a desire to automate the whole thing, then you will have to resort to buying a CAB (system autonomous water supply), which consists directly of the pump itself, a hydraulic accumulator and a control pressure switch. The thing is excellent, but for many expensive.

Pros and cons of different methods of extracting water

  1. Mine well Labor-intensive work. Despite the fact that much of its construction can be done with your own hands, you will have to call equipment and assistants, at least at the stage of digging, excavating the earth from the well space and lowering it there concrete rings.The advantages of the design of a shaft well are obvious: the possibility self repair, cleaning and disinfection as such a need arises (it may not occur for decades - it all depends on the place). It is recommended to resort to a shaft structure in dachas and areas with a close level of groundwater.
  2. What is a driving, or in other words, an Abyssinian well This is a design in which a steel pipe is driven into the ground until it reaches the underground water table. On its lower link there is a filter and a head with holes made in it, through which the water will actually get inside this very steel pipe and be pumped out from there by a pump.
  3. What is a well chamber The option that people move to the country for permanent residence now not uncommon - hence the need for water constantly. In this case, a well chamber is built to protect electrical devices from the effects of precipitation. The chamber is easy to build with your own hands from the same concrete rings or blocks with maximum waterproofing. Cover required.
  4. What is a drill well This is such a water supply device when a well is drilled to the groundwater table. Then, to a depth of 7-8 meters, an ordinary sewer pipe (115 millimeters in diameter) is mounted in it, after which, using a filter segment (such blue polyethylene pipes), water enters the pipe and climbs up.

Water supply from a well - both cold and hot: how to do it?

If the dacha already has a well (maybe made by hand, or maybe left over from the previous owners), then at a relatively low cost, it is possible to organize not only cold, but also hot water supply at home. In our case, an inexpensive submersible pump "Aquarius" was used to lift the water. The pipe exit from the well is waterproofed with silicone and cement. The distance from the well to the house is 5-6 m. So that there is no stagnation of water in the system, a valve is placed at the lowest level of the network.

We conduct water with our own hands - step by step

  1. Using a cable, the pump was lowered into the well, preventing tension on the power cable and supply hose. Fixed the cable to the surface. A cap for water intake was installed on the supply hose.
  2. We supply water to the house through a polyethylene pipe stretched along the bottom of a trench 50 cm deep. At the same time, a second pipe was laid, inside which an electric cable was passed.
  3. The supply pipe was connected to the - further part of the water supply using a check valve to prevent the water from draining back into the well. A mechanical (coarse) filter was installed.
  4. They brought the supply hose into the house. A pressure switch, a pressure gauge and a fine filter were installed on the inlet dispensing unit. Connected everything to the mains.
  5. After being cleaned and filtered, the water enters the accumulator, which maintains the required pressure in the pressurized water supply system, saving the time the pump is turned on.
  6. From the distributing unit, wiring was carried out along the walls of polypropylene pipes. The bathroom has a shower, sink and water heater.

Every summer resident who is puzzled by the question of its construction should know the requirements for the “correct” well.

Often, in a suburban area that is not connected to a centralized water supply, cottage owners have to drill a well or dig a well. The task is not easy. But even in the event of a power outage, the well will provide continuous water supply.

With a relatively small depth of groundwater in the area (up to 40 m), shaft wells are constructed, water enters them through the bottom of the well (90%) and partially through loose wall joints (10%). The usual depth of such a well is 10-15 meters.

Summer plumbing

First, consider the water supply system in the country, which will be operated only in the summer. Such a water supply system is used for watering plants in the country, connecting and current household needs. In winter, its operation is not provided. Summer water supply in the country can be both permanent and collapsible.

The most common is the water supply, the pipes (hoses) of which lie directly on the ground. They make such a water supply system from simple rubber or silicone hoses connected to each other by adapters.

Connecting adapters are commercially available, they are made of galvanized steel or plastic. On sale there are also special latches on the one hand, which have "ruffs" where the hose is put on, and on the other hand there is a convenient spring-loaded connector. These latches can be connected and disconnected in one motion. They are quite capable of providing a reliable joint.

Note that when buying hoses, you need to take rubber ones with thick walls, which are reinforced with nylon fibers. Of course, plastic plumbing in the country will cost less, but such hoses will last longer - at least 15 years.

For a permanent summer water supply, pipes must be laid in the ground, and water taps should be brought to the surface. In this case, it is enough to just cover the pipes with earth a little so as not to stumble over them and to protect them from theft.

The main disadvantage of a permanent summer water supply is the need to observe a slope to the connection point - to the main highway. At this lowest point of the water supply, a drain valve is placed in order to drain water for the winter. Otherwise, the water may freeze and break the pipes.

Now let's talk about more solid and capital schemes. Let's start with a description of the winter plumbing. Winter does not mean that it can only be used in winter, it just means that the water supply system is carried out according to a permanent scheme and can be operated at any time of the year, even winter.

To supply water from a well, it is better to use a submersible pump. Its power is chosen depending on the depth from which water will be supplied. For a well up to ten meters deep, a rather small “brook” or “aquarius” is quite small. If water is supplied from a well, then you will have to buy a more powerful pump, which will cost much more.

Due to the fact that during the installation of a winter water supply, the pump must be connected to a voltage source, it is permissible to combine cable laying and water supply in a single casing made of plastic sewer pipes. It will protect well from freezing and mechanical damage.

Plumbing

For laying water pipes, you can use plastic pipes with soldered connections or special plastic fittings. For soldered joints, a special electric soldering iron is used. It is not very expensive, besides, in specialized stores, such soldering irons are often offered for rent. To install the pipeline, you will need a soldering iron for no more than a day. Connections on fittings are made with “bare hands” without a soldering iron. For a regular dacha, pipes with a diameter of 20 or 25 millimeters are quite suitable.

When laying a water pipe, pipes must be placed below the freezing level of the soil. The value of this value for each specific climatic zone can be found in special reference books. But often, in order not to dig too deep a trench, you can use one of the following methods:

  • Fill the pipe laid at a depth of 60 centimeters with a 20-30 cm layer of insulation made of foam chips, furnace slag, expanded clay, etc. The main condition is that the insulation does not absorb moisture well and is strong enough.
  • Insulate the pipeline with an insulation system consisting of special thermal insulation and a casing made of corrugated polyethylene. With the help of such a system, the depth of the trench can be made much smaller (about 30 centimeters).
  • Lay a heating cable that allows you to lay pipes on the surface at all. But you have to pay a lot for electricity.

It should be noted that the trench should approach the house at a right angle, because it will be necessary to dig the foundation, which is fraught with its settlement and the formation of cracks in the wall.

To connect the pump to the water supply next to the well, it is necessary to arrange a pit, one meter deep and 70x70 centimeters in size. The walls of the pit are laid out with bricks, or they are strengthened in another way, for example, boards impregnated with an antiseptic. It would be more correct to fill the bottom of the pit with concrete or on extreme case fill with rubble and tamp.

A water pipe with a “ruff” is brought out and fixed into the pit for attaching the hose that comes from the pump, as well as the electrical wire. The function of the pit is that, if necessary, you can easily disconnect and remove the pump. The pit is insulated to prevent freezing of water in the pump hose.

To connect the pump, install a waterproof outlet or use a hermetic contact connector, better known as "father-mother". The main condition is that the pump can be safely connected and disconnected, even if the cable is energized.

Water folding devices

With how to make plumbing in the country, we decided. Now let's take a closer look at water-folding devices. For outdoor use, bronze or cast iron gate valves are quite suitable, as well as ordinary taps with crane bushings. Ball valves have an attractive appearance, but it is undesirable to use them: when the tap long time is in the open position or vice versa - closed, as well as with strong temperature fluctuations and exposure to precipitation - such taps can quickly fail.

The most complex water supply unit is a water-folding unit, which is located outdoors, or in an unheated room. Special requirements are placed on him, because he will have to work with negative temperatures. Usually use water columns. The disadvantage of the column is the complexity of installation and high cost.

The distribution of water in the country for irrigation can be greatly simplified if a central water supply is connected to the suburban area. The option of drilling an artesian well is suitable when there is no other way to bring water to the cottage. This method is more expensive, but in the future it will be possible to use the liquid without restrictions. In any case, it is necessary to take care of the normal water supply system of the summer cottage in the first place.

After bringing water to the site, they begin to lay pipes on the plan. This allows you to correctly distribute the need for irrigation in the country. If there is no experience with such systems, then you can contact the specialists. To save money, the recommendations below will help to carry out the wiring of the water supply system.

Having decided on which parts of the dacha should receive water, they begin to draw the wiring diagram. To do this, they must calculate the footage of pipes, select all the necessary fittings: adapters, couplings, taps, angles, tees, etc. If you prepare a plan taking into account the scale on which all points of water delivery will be indicated, this will allow you to quickly navigate the water supply system during its installation.

Plumbing will be required not only for the house, but also for all key places in the suburban area. Pipes should be brought to them, hoses should be connected and taps should be placed on them. Sprinklers are usually installed to water nearby beds. Carrying heavy hoses is not very convenient, so several hoses are usually connected to the wiring at the same time. The presence of a number of water intake points will allow you to quickly cope with watering plants in the country.

Water distribution scheme

When drawing up a wiring diagram, a drain valve is provided at the lowest point of the site. With it, you can drain the water before the onset of frost, since frost and cold lead to freezing of water in the pipes. This can destroy the system, as the density of the liquid that has turned into ice will increase. As a result, the pipes will be broken. Before draining the water, all distribution taps must be closed to protect the water supply from destruction in the winter.

If the pipes of the water supply system are made of polyethylene, then a special drain valve will not be required.

On the drawn up wiring diagram, the location of the taps on the main should be indicated.

It is necessary to provide a tap for emergency shutdown of water supply.

Arranging the distribution of irrigation in the country, you should determine the mode of its use, since the water supply system can be summer and winter. One method of wiring differs from another in the depth to which pipes must be laid. For all-weather cottages, insulated water pipes are usually provided. This system requires laying pipes lower than the depth of soil freezing.

A winter type of wiring is necessary if there is a greenhouse on the site. In this situation, it will be necessary to prepare a good ditch and lay insulated pipes. The most rational would be to use the summer version of the water supply.

For the wiring device, you can use the plumbing scheme of polypropylene pipes. It is equipped with the possibility of draining water for the winter period. You must first calculate required amount consumed water, adding to the result just in case a small amount of stock. When calculating, one should take into account not only the volume of liquid for watering plants on the site, but also the water needs of family members of the owner of the cottage.

To bring the pump outlet pipe into the house at the dacha with your own hands, you will need polyethylene pipes laid in a trench, the depth of which is 50-60 cm. The pump is installed in a well or well, from where water for consumption should come. You can control the pump from home using a cable introduced into the house.

A second plastic pipe is laid in the trench for the pipe laid in advance, in which the cable must be laid. The pipe introduced into the room must be equipped with a check valve and a mechanical coarse filter for the liquid.

How to make a homemade well on the site

When arranging a mine well in a country house with your own hands, you should not only install a log house made of wood, but also take care of the following elements of the water supply system:

  1. 1 Power grid.
  2. 2 Spout with faucet.
  3. 3 Stop valve.
  4. 4 pipes.
  5. 5 Hoses.
  6. 6 Sand.
  7. 7 Rubble.
  8. 8 box.
  9. 9 blind area.
  10. 10 Clay castle.
  11. 11 Lid.
  12. 12 Ventilation riser, etc.

Do-it-yourself installation of a mine well in a country house is carried out if water is planned to be consumed in small volumes. Its design is quite simple. For normal operation of the device, it is necessary that groundwater lies at a depth of 3-4 to 10-15 m. This depends on the region in which the country house is located.

The components of the well are:

  1. 1 Ground part (head).
  2. 2 rings made of reinforced concrete.

Concrete is sometimes replaced with a log house made of wood, made using a beam, the diameter of which is 20-30 cm. The log house must be buried in the ground, and the well shaft - several meters into the groundwater. Sand, crushed stone and gravel should be alternately poured onto the bottom of the trench in layers, each of which should have a height of at least 20 cm. After that, a submersible pump is installed in the well.

If groundwater is located deep enough, more than 15-20 m, then drilling of wells will be required, which can be of the following types:

  1. 1 Simple ("on the sand").
  2. 2 Artesian wells (“on limestone”).

Wells of the first type can be drilled independently in 2-3 days using a drill. You will also need a steel pipe, a pump and a special filter mesh. This type of well will provide small plot water for 5 years. The cost of an artesian well is too high, but its service life is more than 70 years. It allows you to supply water to the site in volumes from 4 to 110 m3 / h. To drill an artesian well, it is necessary to involve specialists and obtain permission to create such a well from the local authorities.

Autonomous water supply device

It is possible to carry out the distribution of water in the country different ways, the main of which are associated with a series connection of pipes or using a manifold. This device allows you to connect the pipe to each individual point. The manifold is a pipe with a larger diameter than the hoses. Connection to the collector of devices that consume water through hoses must be parallel. Due to this, pressure equalization occurs in the supply pipes. The flow of water into each of the hoses is carried out evenly, which does not depend on whether adjacent taps are open or not.

For irrigation of the site, you can use different types water pumps. These units are quite light and compact. They do not require special maintenance, as they are equipped with a pressure gauge, a hydraulic accumulator and a pressure switch. This allows you to support the automatic operation of devices operating on the principle of pumping stations.

Water supply in the country can be organized using a tank, which allows not only to have water in reserve in case it is turned off, but also to collect rain water. To purify water, you need a high-quality filter system. At the first stage, a rough cleaning is performed, and at the second, a fine one. The latter is more thorough and requires several security filters to be applied.

Using a tank in the plumbing system on the site is also very effective for plants, since water will be heated in it in summer if it is installed outside. watering plants warm water allows you to achieve the best fruiting crops. The dacha can also be equipped with a drip irrigation system if special hoses are connected to the tees.

When purchasing a coveted summer cottage, a good owner will first of all begin to equip the water supply system and this will be true. Do-it-yourself summer water supply in the country is not so difficult to do. Indeed, without life-giving moisture, you will not only not be able to grow a normal crop, but any construction will be very difficult.

Even if you bring in quick-mounted country houses from block containers, they will need some kind of small foundation, for which water is needed. Renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will solve the problem of energy supply for some time, but without water there will be little joy from this.

Where to get water

There are several traditional sources of moisture intake, which one is preferable for your site should be decided on a purely individual basis. We, in turn, will tell you about the most common.

Advice: if possible, it is better to start drafting a project with a survey of the nearest neighbors. Taking advantage of their experience and taking into account their mistakes, significant costs can be avoided.

good old well

If in your area the depth of the aquifer with a quality drinking water is within 3 - 15m, then you should not reinvent the wheel. The well will be the most best solution For you.

The cost of arranging an average well will not be much higher than drilling a well for sand. If the site does not stand on rocks, then 2 - 3 people can dig a well in 1 - 2 weeks.

The most convenient way to do this is with the help of concrete rings, the first ring is installed in the pit and soil is selected from under it. As the structure deepens, it builds up.

Important: unlike a well, the service life of wells fluctuates around 50 years. Plus, in the event of a power outage, water from the well can be raised with a bucket.

well drilling

There are 2 types of wells, sand and artesian. The depth of the well on the sand, depending on the location, ranges from 10 to 50 m. The horizon can begin immediately behind the first layers of dense loam. The same loam acts as a natural filter, purifying groundwater and melt water.

The water supply depends on the thickness of the reservoir, but on average, up to 500 l can be obtained from such a well per day. A serious problem here can be sand or sludge clogging of submersible pumps and filtration systems.

Most often, such structures do not live long, from about 5 to 20 years. But if you get to a full-flowing underground river and equip the wellbore with high quality, then such a source can last longer.

Experts advise drilling such wells manually, and it is better to look for a place for drilling using old-fashioned methods. From experience, with this approach, the probability of finding a quality source increases significantly. With machine drilling, you can simply skip the desired horizon.

Water in artesian wells is extracted from the limestone horizon. It is of course more rigid, but it is distinguished by exceptional purity. The depth of occurrence here is not predictable.

In the rocks, you can stumble upon an underground lake already at 30 - 40 meters. But there is an option to drill more than 100 meters.

The arrangement of such wells is quite expensive and, as a rule, they are made together. In addition to serious financial investments, you will also need official permission from the authorities, because artesian water is the property of the state. But there is a high chance of self-sufficiency clean water over the next 50 years.

Alternative ways

A simple and relatively reliable option is to connect to a ready-made trunk. Now it can be done directly under pressure. For this, an overhead tee with a ball valve is used.

The tee is bolted to the line, after which a hole is drilled in the pipe and the valve is quickly closed. Then you can mount the branch.

As an option, you can use water from natural reservoirs located nearby, but no one will give you a guarantee of purity. Therefore, such water is more suitable for irrigation. You can also collect rainwater in separate tanks, but of course we are not talking about any serious scale here.

Methods for arranging water supply

For irrigation and some household needs, you can mount a temporary or stationary system summer water supply.

Demountable design

The collapsible version of the system is mounted from flexible silicone or rubber hoses. They are connected by metal or plastic adapters and connectors. Such accessories are not expensive, plus it is easy to make it yourself.

Speaking about the merits, it should be noted that the price of such a design will not be high, plus you can assemble it in a couple of hours. Any damage here can be quickly found and repaired.

But such a system is very vulnerable. The pipes in it, as a rule, lie directly on the ground or are mounted above the ground on special suspensions, so they are easy to damage.

At the end of the season, it will need to be dismantled and hidden, as there is a possibility of theft. Experienced summer residents know that the most unpleasant thing here is that everything will cling to these hoses.

Tip: for the installation of a temporary structure, experienced summer residents lay a collapsible line of HDPE pipes. It runs in the center of the site and is equipped with several nodes for connecting flexible silicone hoses. Such a system is much simpler and more practical, plus much less flexible hose is required.

Stationary summer system

Stationary water supply, of course, is more convenient than a collapsible one, since it is laid underground and will not interfere and spoil the landscape of the site. Do not be confused by the word stationary, the price of such a design will not be much higher than that of a temporary system. Of course, you will have to tinker with the arrangement, but believe me, it's worth it.

Another big plus is that a well-laid central line of the system can, if necessary, become the basis for arranging a winter water supply in the house.

  • As in any business, you should start with the creation of a project. Here, the more carefully and scrupulously you write down and draw each node and sector of the system, the easier it will be to select equipment, materials and carry out installation.
  • From experience, we can say that it is better to draw a sketch directly on the ground, that is, to independently go through every meter and turn of the highway. This will make it easier to calculate the number of connectors and determine how many connection points you need.

  • The central line and branches by sectors can be made of polypropylene pipes or polyethylene pipes low pressure HDPE. In terms of costs, these systems are approximately equal, the fact is that polypropylene pipes are more expensive than HDPE, but the price of couplings and connectors for HDPE equalizes the cost of the estimate.
  • Also note that polypropylene pipes are soldered, therefore, you will need a power source. The design of HDPE pipes can be assembled without soldering.

Important: to install a system of polypropylene pipes, you will need a special soldering iron. Now many shopping centers rent a soldering iron if you buy material from them, this is very convenient, since the system can be assembled in 1 - 2 days and is not spent separately on a soldering iron.

  • If the total length of the system does not exceed 30 m, then pipes with a diameter of 20 mm are sufficient for its installation. But experts advise laying the central line with pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, and wiring in sectors can already be done with twenty-millimeter pipes. For a low pressure system, it is better to use 25 mm pipes completely.
  • Installation instructions standard. All pipes must be placed taking into account the fact that for the winter the water from the system must be drained. That is, the entire system must go downhill and a valve or valve must be installed at the lowest point to drain the system. The lower point is made in the water intake area.
  • If you mount the system for, then the depth of the bookmark is done in the region of 20 - 30 cm. For watering the beds, the pipe must be buried to a depth of about half a meter, so as not to damage it when digging with a shovel or cultivator.

  • For the installation of a structure made of HDPE pipes, you will need special couplings equipped with internal and external threads. Although o-rings are already installed in them, it is advisable to wind the fum-tape onto the thread, it is wound clockwise without wrinkles, 6-8 turns. This will significantly increase the density and hence the durability of the connection.
  • The pipe is driven and pushed inside the coupling to a hard stop, this is about 50 mm. The coupling can be tightened by hand, but at the end it should be slightly tightened with a No. 2 gas wrench. In the same way, taps and tees for wiring are connected.
  • For cutting plastic pipes, there are special scissors and roller cutters, thanks to which the cut is even and does not require additional processing.. But if you do not want to spend money on such a specialized tool, then you can use an ordinary hacksaw, however, in this case, the burrs on the cut are removed with a round file.

Tip: when purchasing a coupling for connecting a water gun or other sprinkler, it is better to take the so-called aquastop coupling, a valve is built into it, thanks to which you do not need to turn off the water when replacing the device.

  • As a rule, the central highway is laid from the water intake to the house and conclusions are drawn from it to connect a flexible hose or wiring by sector. It makes sense to make it more thorough so that it is possible to supply water to the house if, for example, you decide to meet New Year in the country.
  • Many experts advise that the pipe does not freeze, lay it deeper than the freezing level of the soil. But in some areas of our country, the level of freezing reaches 1.5 m, and this is quite difficult to do. It is much easier to bury the pipe to a depth of 30 - 50 cm and insulate it.
  • For insulation, a bed of technical polyethylene is laid out at the bottom of the trench, you can take a cut plastic pipe large diameter . As an insulating filler, you can use any porous non-hygroscopic material, such as foam chips, slag or expanded clay.
  • A special wire is attached to the main pipe itself.. When connected to the mains, it will heat up and will not allow the line to freeze during operation, pipes with a built-in heating thread are produced, but they are expensive.
  • The pipe is laid on the insulation and covered with the same layer of insulation from above.. After that, the entire structure is closed with waterproofing and covered with soil.

Tip: it is better to take cast-iron, brass or bronze taps and valves for connecting in a house or greenhouse. Ball valves from composite materials won't last long.

  • When choosing a pump, please note that the passport indicates from what depth it can lift water. So, to the real depth of your well or well, you need to add the length of the irrigation distribution system at the rate of 1m of vertical rise.

The video in this article shows some of the intricacies of installing a water pipe.

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