Making beautiful sconces with your own hands from various materials. How to make a lampshade (plafond) at home What to make a sconce from

Ceiling chandeliers - lighting devices that perform two functions at the same time. Firstly, they are used to organize the main lighting in the room. Secondly, devices are one of the main elements of the decorative decoration of the room.

Numerous manufacturers offer equipment of different designs, but it is far from always possible to find something really worthwhile that fits into the overall interior of the room. In other situations, the cost of the chandelier you like may be too high. That is why many people are interested in how to make a ceiling lamp with their own hands.

Handmade products will be unique and original, thanks to them you will be able to express your taste and character. It is not so easy to make such devices on your own. The work requires a certain imagination and perseverance. On the other hand, a ceiling chandelier can be created from improvised means and items that have become garbage for you.

Choose any materials for manufacturing - wood, plastic, metal or glass. Chandeliers made of wine bottles, wooden skewers or straw look very original. To summarize: the choice of material for a homemade lamp completely depends on the imagination and idea that arose in the head of the owner of the apartment.

Varieties of lighting fixtures

The final stage of any repair and construction work will be the purchase of lighting fixtures. Often the main one is the ceiling chandelier, which is installed in the center of the room, provided it has the correct geometry. There is a wide range of luminaires on the market that differ in design, shape, principle of operation, and even the presence / absence of certain structural elements.

Today, all people strive to save money, so it will be important to use a chandelier for energy-saving or LED lamps. It is advisable to choose products with partially or completely closed shades, in which lamps are hidden. Due to this, you will protect the ceiling structure and be able to protect yourself in the event of a light bulb explosion (the fragments will remain inside the ceiling).

If you still like a chandelier with an open arrangement of light bulbs, then inspect it and make sure that after installation the luminous flux will be directed downwards. There is also a simple rule - the simpler the product, the easier the subsequent installation.

Another point to consider when choosing a chandelier is the purpose of the room and its dimensions. In spacious rooms with high ceilings, volumetric pendant-type lamps should be installed. For small spaces, space savings are required, so focus on flat (flattened) options.

Conventionally, chandeliers for the ceiling can be divided into two main varieties:

classic hanging;
flat with the closest placement to the ceiling.

And the latter are divided into two subcategories - built-in and overhead. Overhead shades are considered the best solution for bathrooms, corridors and kitchens. The presence of a separating platform ensures their rapid cooling and high fire and electrical safety.

Recessed lights are also called spotlights. They are often installed (more correctly, they are built in) in furniture, suspended ceilings or arched structures. Manufacturers provide a wide variety of shapes, colors and designs for both traditional and flat luminaires.

Finally, in addition to the design features of the fixtures themselves, they distinguish the type of light sources used:

A filament lamp is one of the most common and simple options. The cheapest light source. Under mechanical action, it quickly fails due to the vulnerability of the structure, it burns out relatively soon (in the case of continuous operation, it can burn out in two to three days).
An energy-saving fluorescent lamp is one of the best varieties of housekeepers. Advantages of a product are connected with profitability and long service life. Along with LEDs, it is the most common light source in developed countries.
The LED lamp is an expensive product, the popularity of which is increasing every year. The efficiency factor exceeds 90%, and in the case of high-quality devices it reaches 98%. They are characterized by a longer service life and increased reliability.

An example of a homemade lamp

Consider one of the simplest examples of a DIY ceiling lamp.

For the manufacture we need:

5 l plastic bottle;
plastic spoons - their number depends on the dimensions of the bottle, which will become the frame;
quick-drying adhesive for plastic;
sharp knife;
cartridge with wire.

To begin with, a frame is prepared from a plastic bottle. Remove any labels from the item, rinse and dry thoroughly. After that, feel free to cut out the bottom. Cut off all the handles from the plastic spoons, but so that small pieces of 2 cm remain.

Glue the resulting scraps with “scoops” onto the base of the frame from a plastic bottle. To do this, we just need the remaining pieces of handles, which need to be poured abundantly with glue and pressed tightly to the surface (the convex part of the scoop should look out). Tape the container in a circle until the entire surface is hidden. Ideally, the spoons are placed in a checkerboard pattern, followed by a shift for a tight fit and no visible areas.

Cartridges with wiring can be removed from some old chandelier, then installed and fixed in a new product by pulling the bottle through the neck. A decorative bowl can be decorated with the same blanks using glue and placed on the neck.

To make sure that the product is working, at the final stage, screw the light bulb into the lamp and connect it to the power source. If successful, it remains to install the chandelier on the ceiling.

For a more stylish design and change of colors, you can paint plastic spoons. This will increase the originality and attractiveness of the product.

Style selection

In addition to the points listed in the first chapter of the article, when choosing a chandelier, you need to focus on a certain style. This is also true for those cases when you decide to make the product yourself. Comfort, coziness and how pleasant it will be to be in it depend on the interior created in the room.

The ceiling chandelier is the main element of the decor, therefore, with a competent approach, the perception of the environment will improve, with a careless one, it will completely deteriorate. As you know, “breaking is not building”, therefore, in order to spoil the interior, it is enough to choose the wrong style.

Decide in advance on the design of the future lamp. The most common styles for chandeliers are hi-tech, modern and provence.

High tech

It includes products made of glass and metal. Modern appliances fit perfectly into the design of the bedroom and living room. Externally, the chandelier may look chaotic (with an arbitrary arrangement of decor elements). A great option for people who want to modernize an apartment or a private house, but do not want to make something too complicated. Any errors made in the manufacture of the chandelier may look like an original design decision.

Modern

In accordance with this style, appliances are made of glass and wood. The ceiling lamp is characterized by perfectly even and clear lines, has the correct geometry.

Provence

The most complex execution, which is suitable for people who understand the principles of hand-made. Various fabrics, colorful ribbons, beads, embroideries can be used to decorate the chandelier. The lamps are gentle, suitable for creating a romantic atmosphere. Provence style lighting fixture is suitable for decorating any living space.

Mounting materials

For ceiling mounting of the lamp, certain materials and tools will be required:

the lamp itself;
junction box;
screwdriver (curly);
switches;
as an alternative - dimmers (a rotary toggle switch that adjusts brightness, turn on / off the light bulb);
wires;
electrical tape;
indicator (tester);
pliers;
connecting blocks.

Ideally, electrical wiring should be routed using connector blocks. If such products are not available, then twist the bare ends of the wires with pliers and hide under a dense layer of electrical tape. The compounds can also be placed under polymer caps. Make sure the wires wrap tightly around each other.

When laying the cable, pay attention to the material from which it is made. It is advisable to twist aluminum with aluminum or copper with copper. When wires from two different materials come into contact, gradual oxidation will occur, leading to burnout and loss of contact.

Work sequence

Before installing the ceiling light, determine the phases of the wires. To do this, you need an indicator screwdriver or a special probe. If you attach the working surface to the phase core, the light bulb will start to glow. Otherwise, the wire belongs to the zero phase.

Next, you need to determine the phases on the wiring of the lighting fixture. Plug two wires into the outlet, but in no case touch the third one. If there are several bulbs on the chandelier, then about half of them will light up. Leave any wire in the outlet and replace the second with a third. The second half of the bulbs should light up. Thus, the wire that is constantly in the outlet (and when connected in turn with the other two turns on the light bulbs) is the zero phase.

Attach the lamp to the ceiling. For this, both a classic hook sticking out of the ceiling and a mounting rail (included with most modern devices) are used. If there is a hook from the old chandelier, it is advisable to dismantle it.

Connecting fixtures

If it is necessary to connect a floor lamp or chandelier with a two-wire cable, difficulties should not arise at all. Simply connect the ends of this cable to the two ends of the wiring. If the lamp consists of several parts and there are more wires, then it is correct to twist them in pairs, subsequently connecting them to the necessary residential electrical wiring in the apartment.

A three-core cable indicates the presence of two normal and one zero phases. Follow the scheme described above to find the zero phase. After that, connect the device to the house wiring.

Traditionally, the zero phase on the lamp has wires with blue insulation, the usual one is brown, black or red. If there are several blue wires, then they need to be connected in pairs, and then connected to the zero phase. Do the same with other colored parts.

Products with four cores are much less common. The latter is intended for grounding and is usually painted yellow-green. It should be screwed to the luminaire body with a conventional screw. Be sure to isolate all connections.

For the manufacture of ceiling lamps with your own hands, any materials can be used. The main thing is to choose the style and shape in advance and navigate the installation site. Also, before starting work, it is advisable to draw a sketch of the future product. Everything else is limited by your imagination.

Connecting homemade lighting fixtures is carried out in the same way as purchased ones. Using our instructions, you can easily connect ceiling chandeliers with two, three and even four cores. The main thing is not to forget about safety rules and ensure complete insulation of the wires, excluding a short circuit.

Decorating the house on your own is a favorite pastime of many hostesses, this article reveals how to make a lamp with your own hands. You can revive the interior of a living room, bedroom or hallway with the help of improvised means, only by changing the ceiling of a chandelier, floor lamp or table lamp. Do-it-yourself lampshades for lamps can be used not only in a residential interior, but also in the halls of cafes, pubs, pizzerias.

The choice of materials and lamps for the lamp

Products made for children's rooms should be made from natural non-toxic materials and painted with ecological paints.

When manufacturing, fire safety should also be taken into account, therefore lampshades made of combustible materials made of paper, plastic, feathers or threads should only be used with lamps that have a low heating temperature.

You need to use LED or fluorescent lamps. They have a number of advantages:

long service life;
minimum heating of the base from the glass part;
light has three shades: warm, cold, neutral.

In addition, such lamps are also called energy-saving, their only drawback is their high cost.

It is also desirable that the connection of the wire to the base be made by a specialist. Do not try to perform this operation yourself, as this may lead to undesirable consequences. It is more convenient to decorate an existing ceiling frame or make it from durable and not very heavy materials.

The following materials are used to create fixtures: scissors, a mounting knife, fishing line, wire, pliers, a hot gun, in some cases it can be replaced with super glue. They should be used by an adult, it is unacceptable to involve a child in gluing. Since in one case he will get a burn, and in the other he can glue his fingers or stick to the details of the future product.

What can you make a plafond from?

Many craftsmen make lamps from completely unnecessary materials:

from plastic or glass bottles;
newspapers, thin or colored paper;
artificial or natural threads;
dried branches of an unusual shape;
disposable spoons;
old disks.

plastic lamp

From plastic containers of different sizes, a homemade chandelier is easily obtained.

For the base, you need to take a bottle of 5 liters. The bottom is cut off. Then circles with a diameter of 1.5 cm are drawn on the surface. They must be cut with a mounting knife or small scissors.
The bottom is cut off from the bottles for decoration and the entire surface is cut with scissors into strips 0.5 - 1 cm wide, then the workpiece is heated over the lit burner. Under the influence of heat, the stripes will take on a chaotic appearance.
Then blanks are inserted into a 5-liter container with holes, and lids are screwed on the inside. Then a wire is threaded through the large neck and a ceiling is installed. For such a ceiling, you need to use an energy-saving lamp.
In some interiors, you can find a fancy lamp made on the basis of an ordinary hanger or a straw hat. In general, nothing can limit the scope of the imagination of both home craftsmen and professional designers.

Plafond from glass bottles

A very interesting version of a homemade chandelier is obtained from glass bottles. They are used to decorate the halls of catering establishments. It is also a good option for a kitchen in a residential building or apartment. This can be a ceiling, consisting of one or more bottles, in which the bottom is cut off. You can do this yourself, but it is better to use the services of a workshop where glass and mirrors are cut.

How to use thread

For a lampshade made of threads or ribbons, you will need: a ready-made frame made of strong wire, threads of different colors, scissors, glue.

The frame consists of two rings interconnected by metal segments. It can be made independently from durable wire.
One color or several shades of thread is required.
A thread is fixed on the lower part, then it must be pulled through the upper ring, lowered down and thrown over the lower ring. It is necessary to ensure that the thread is taut and the coils fit snugly together. As soon as the thread ends, you need to attach the next segment to the lower ring.
Carefully cut off the rest of the threads and glue them on the back.

Spoons for the lamp

You can make a multi-tiered, colored lamp from ordinary disposable spoons.

It is necessary to make a wire frame, for a small round lamp you need to make three circles with a diameter of 12, 18, 26 cm. Then the circles are fastened together with a fishing line. The largest diameter will be at the top, there should be the same distance between them.
In spoons, you need to make a small hole with a thick needle at the top of the handle.
Spoons are painted with acrylic paints in three colors, for example, yellow, orange, red.
Assembling a homemade chandelier: the fishing line is cut into a length equal to the distance between the circles. A spoon is tied to one end of the fishing line, and the other to the frame. Yellow spoons should be tied to the lower circle of small diameter, orange to the middle one, and red to the upper one.

Lightweight and sleek shade

For a paper ceiling, paper or thin cardboard is suitable. Such a ceiling can be either rectangular or square. First you need to consider the size of the ceiling, the larger the room, the wider the design can be. In a small nursery or hallway, a ceiling with a diameter of 30 - 35 centimeters will look good.

The frame can be made of wire, it will consist of an upper and lower part, consider the manufacture of a cylinder-shaped ceiling.

It is necessary to make two circles of wire of the desired diameter. They are interconnected with a fishing line, the distance between the lower and upper frame is 12 - 15 cm, the hoops are fastened with a fishing line in three or four places. The larger the diameter of the base, the more connecting elements must be made.
On a paper blank, you can draw circles of different diameters, figures of cartoon characters. Outline drawings can be taken from the Internet and printed, then redrawn with carbon paper. A special ruler is suitable for drawing circles, or you can outline caps or buttons of different diameters. Some drawings are cut out completely with a clerical knife, some are cut along the contour.
The paper is tried on the base and glued with an overlap. Then glued to the wire, can also be fixed with a thin wire. To do this, first make a hole in the paper with a thick needle or awl, then thread the wire and carefully tie it to the frame. It is advisable to glue thin paper, as it is easy to ruin it.

Exclusive ceiling made of metal cans

Basins made of any metal are used, an interesting option will be obtained from copper or aluminum containers. An old, used basin will also work. If there is a through hole in it, it must be welded or sealed, for example, with epoxy.
The inner surface must be painted in a light color so that the light reflects from it as much as possible.
The outer surface can be painted in a dark, saturated color, in harmony with the interior.
A fringe about 5 centimeters long is glued to the bottom of the rim with hot glue. In the central part of the basin, it is necessary to make a hole for the wire. It can be drilled with a drill or pierced with a nail.

Such a ceiling can be decorated with a mosaic of CDs. To do this, the disks are cut with sharp scissors into small fragments, which are glued to the outer surface of the pelvis. You can glue only the bottom contour, and paint the rest. Or decorate the entire surface of the ceiling with such a mosaic. The more convex the surface, the smaller the disk fragments should be.

natural materials

The original lamp can be made from a dry branch of an unusual shape. It must be cleaned of bark and covered with stain, then, if desired, treated with transparent varnish. The branch must be attached to a hook on the ceiling with a regular fishing line. Then I wind the wire with the lamp several times onto the branch. A branch entwined with several wires looks beautiful.

You can make a lamp out of plastic hangers. Detailed in the video:

Lamps in different rooms

DIY bottle chandeliers are more suitable for the kitchen. Designs made of glass or plastic will be easy to clean from dust and wash if necessary. For the kitchen, hallway or living room, a lamp made of natural wood is suitable.

For a children's room, a ceiling made of painted plastic bottles, a floor lamp made of bright threads or a paper composition is more suitable. The latter option cannot be called durable, but this option will appeal to children. Girls will like the plafond with butterflies, plant elements, boys will like designs with cars, superheroes or bright plastic plafonds.

In some cafes, pubs, original lamps made from bottles are used to decorate the hall. It could be beer bottles. They can serve as both a lamp shade and an interesting frame for a lamp.

Ideas for homemade lamps by location

With your own hands, you can give a new look to the floor lamp. You can decorate the ceiling with fabric, threads, paper with cut-out patterns, and you also do not need to ignore the base and leg of the lamp. They can be painted with acrylics, glazed, decorated with beads. The decor of the lower part of the floor lamp should overlap with the elements in the upper part. The easiest option is to decorate the ceiling of a solid color with lace or guipure.

Decoration of lamps

The lower part of the plafond of threads can be decorated with pompoms of the same size hanging on a thread. They are glued on the inside of the frame with glue. Pompoms can hang at the same or at different heights. They can be made in one color or combined in several shades.

To decorate paper lamps, you can use lace, thick tulle, beads of different sizes. You can decorate glass jars or bottles with glass pebbles, which can be purchased at hardware stores. You can also use buttons of different sizes and colors. Small buttons can be glued even on PVA.

On New Year's holidays, it is customary to decorate the Christmas tree, but you can also decorate the shades of lamps, floor lamps. Here you can use the usual rain, do-it-yourself snowflakes, Christmas tree figurines, decorative balls and an ordinary garland. If an energy-saving lamp is installed in a wall or floor lamp, then its ceiling can be decorated with paper snowflakes.

Wall sconces are installed in living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms. After repair, you can use old sconces only by changing their appearance. You can paint the body of the lamp in a light color, and apply bronze or silver paint on top with a hard bristle brush to create a patina effect. If the ceiling is glass, the pattern you like is applied to its surface using a glass stencil. Here you can use contour (they are used to create a stained-glass window) or spray paints.

Do you want to transform your interior, adding a touch of originality and modernity to it? It's time to learn how to make a lamp with your own hands, because thanks to this piece of furniture your home will stand out from the rest and become unique. The creative process itself will be very interesting and useful, so if you wish, you can invite children and create your masterpiece together. Dekorin has selected for you the most beautiful lamps and lampshades that can be made from paper and other improvised means.

1. Paper lamp: how to make it yourself?

From such a simple material as paper, everyone can make incredibly beautiful and modern lamps with their own hands. In the photo below, we presented several unusual options for homemade paper lamps. Happy viewing!

Chinese lanterns: do-it-yourself paper lamp

Thanks to such a simple and at the same time interesting piece of decor as Chinese lanterns, you can add some brightness, lively colors and a sense of celebration to the interior.

The materials you will need for this:

Colored or white paper;
A cartridge that you can remove from an old lamp or buy;
LED light bulb (note that you should not use a heated light bulb, because we make the lamp out of paper);
Pencil and ruler;
Stationery knife;
Thread;
Awl.

Making a lamp with your own hands (step by step with a photo)

First, on the back of the paper, you need to draw lines that will create the relief of the lamp. Below is a drawing according to which it is proposed to make markups.

We fold the paper along the marked lines in order to get a kind of accordion. At this stage, it is important not to rush and do everything carefully so that the lamp comes out smooth and beautiful.

Now we create a lampshade for the paper lamp around the cartridge. At the junction, the sheet can be glued with ordinary PVA glue or joined in any other way. Please note that without gluing the edges, it will be easier for you to change the light bulb in this lamp.

Our Chinese lanterns are ready! In the photo below you can see what happened in the end.

For more ideas on how to make a paper table lamp or pendant lamp, see our article.

2. How to make a wooden lamp with your own hands?

From such a simple material as wood, you also have the opportunity to make a very creative lamp with your own hands. It is enough just to look around: nature itself inspires us with its extraordinary forms for creativity. Each of us at least once in our lives noted the beautiful shape of a branch or snag. Dekorin proposes to reflect their beauty in interior design as an original and functional lamp.

Using a branch, you can make a lamp out of wood yourself without the use of special tools and skills. You can easily find the necessary material in the forest or near the house. The main thing is that this snag should be already dry, but not too rotten, because it will have to hold the weight of the shades and at the same time last you as long as possible.

DIY floor lamp from a wooden branch (photo)

In fact, depending on your wishes, you can make a floor, table or ceiling lamp from a branch. Here we will consider the option of manufacturing a floor lamp.

First of all, you need to make a solid base for the floor lamp (for example, pour cement mortar into any container and insert our branch for a wooden lamp into it). After a while, the container can be removed, after which a reliable and stylish cement base and lamp leg will remain. Also read how you can make a simple cement mortar.

At the next stage, it is necessary to attach a cord with a cartridge and a light bulb to the snag using improvised means. Our floor lamp is ready!

Ceiling and even wall lamps from a branch will also look very beautiful in the interior. You can decorate them with both ordinary light bulbs and vintage shades or lampshades. Examples are in the photo below.

3. How else can you make a lamp with your own hands from improvised materials?

Do you have a favorite lamp that you do not want to part with, but the appearance of its ceiling leaves much to be desired? Don't worry, we'll fix it! Dekorin will tell you how to make a lampshade for a lamp with your own hands. Just look at the photo: what original and even intricate lampshades for lamps you can make yourself!

Also read:Do-it-yourself vases from glass and plastic bottles

How to make a lampshade for a lamp with your own hands from threads

Such a lamp will become a creative and unique decoration of your interior. It will easily fit into both the kitchen and the bedroom with the living room.

So, what you need: a balloon (you need to take into account the size and shape of the inflated balloon, because the shape of the lampshade will depend on this), thick cotton threads (twine is better), PVA glue about 250 gr., A cord-suspension that will hold the lampshade, an energy-saving lamp, scissors, a needle, any cream, a brush, a cotton pad, and a cotton swab.

Step 1. Inflate the balloon to the desired size and tie it securely.

Step 2 Using a cotton pad, lubricate the ball with any cream so that later it is easier for the threads to detach from the base.

Step 3. Thread the needle and pierce the glue bottle through. Wind the thread around the ball as you see fit, however, do not pull it too tight.

Step 4. When all the threads are wound, go over the glue a little in those places where it is not enough. Now the lampshade is almost ready and should be removed to dry overnight.

Step 5. In the morning, take a dried lampshade and start pressing the ball with a cotton swab to help it separate from the threads. Carefully and most importantly, slowly blow off the ball, because by doing it quickly, you risk creating a dent on the lampshade with your own hands.

Step 5. Mark the future hole and make 4 cuts in all directions so that the bulb with the cartridge can enter the lampshade.

Finally, you need to insert a cartridge with a light bulb, and carefully attach the lamp holder between the threads. The lampshade is completely ready, now it remains only to hang it in the room that you have chosen and enjoy the results of your creativity.

How to make a lamp with your own hands: 15+ ideas and photos updated: March 27, 2017 by: Oksana Krutsenko

In this article we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. In the initial publication of the cycle - - the general quality requirements were considered, how to form a luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first - the rules for connecting a stationary lamp to the mains. From the previous article, we learned how to make the main lighting parts of the lamp -. Now it's time to take on the solid, reliable and beautiful constructive basis of all this.

About LEDs

LEDs as lighting sources are becoming increasingly popular: they are very economical, durable, almost do not heat up, which provides ample opportunities for self-construction and design. In addition, low-voltage power makes LED light sources safe. Therefore, in this article a significant proportion of the material is devoted to how to make an LED lamp yourself.

However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached the ideal: his spectrum is pretty tight. You can soften it with various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks to the low-voltage power supply, a street or garden LED lamp can be made independently without special precautions, and also be autonomous; then bulk earthworks and cable laying on the site disappear. In this section, we will focus more on LED lamps.

Some examples of what can be achieved by taking on lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. A similar selection “for ideas” or “for inspiration” will be compiled by anyone who knows how to use the Internet. And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to embody all this in the material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Preferably at home, on your knees.

Materials, tools, equipment, technologies

To make a good lamp, expensive and / or hard-to-find materials are not needed. Former technologies focused on incandescent lamps, which are very hot and consume a lot of current. The current homemade ones have housekeeper lamps and LEDs that emit little heat, which simplifies the design.

To manufacture a lamp that is not inferior in appearance or quality to industrial designs, we will need scraps of metal tubes, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized steel sheet 0.4-1 mm thick and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to get by with unnecessary trash. Wood processing for a complex lamp is a special case, and we will not bypass it.

Note: good old glass also should not be discounted. Take a look at this tutorial for example: diy.ru/post/3916/. That's what can be achieved by working at home with such difficult material. Only one small "but" - what the author of the product (a man, no doubt, very skillful and quick-witted) calls cutting, in fact, edging. However, how to call it is the business of letter-eaters, and it is enough for the master to make the contraption good.

Very simple but tasteful

Examples of excellent lamps made from improvised materials, namely, scraps of wood and paper, are well-known Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The basis is most often a rack frame, pasted over with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of what is in pos. 2, thin bamboo sticks are better (you can split an old rod into strips), or the ends of modern fiberglass rods; sold in fishing stores. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. Paper (preferably rice) after pasting is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. When dry, it will stretch. After that, the paper is varnished for strength.

A Chinese lantern can also be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or table skewers (wooden twigs on which barbecue and kebab are served at the table). Both are made of light, fairly well-reflecting light, wood. And its slightly rough surface effectively scatters light, which softens it.

From chopsticks, placing them with broadened heads alternately to the left, then to the right, they gain side light-transmitting panels, pos. 3. And from table skewers you get a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.

Plastics

But back to the materials, they are not finished yet. Excellent details of chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic utensils - bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut off or sanded off. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass - "velvet" - and polished with felt with GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.

The second type of plastic, which allows you to make a very original lamp (see Fig.) - polymer clay or just plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens the light very well.

Polymer clay is available in various colors immediately-plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are quite hard at first, but soften when kneading. To speed up and facilitate softening, put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the bar, and start kneading when it is absorbed.

Lampshades are molded from soft plastic on a mandrel lubricated with petroleum jelly. Immediately, if necessary, they fill the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in fig. To obtain an openwork ceiling, the tip of the package is cut off and the mass is squeezed out with a sausage. After about a day, the product dries up, then you can, without removing it from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, frills. Completely the product dries up in 3-7 days.

Bar plastic is used for the manufacture of lamp stands. Having molded the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, the gas is covered to a minimum and “baked” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is undesirable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawn, drilled, polished, painted. In this way, lamp cases are sometimes not only original, but also quite spicy (see the figure), or even frivolous on the verge of decency, or even beyond it.

Ceramics

Since we are talking about coasters, let's try to make a lamp out of a bottle. Ceramic vessels for drinks, worked out by company designers, deserve a better use than garbage, moonshine or recyclables for pennies.

There are 2 problems here: stability and holes for cable entry and a switch. The first is solved with sand, poured into the bottle by 2/3 or 3/4. To solve the second, it would seem that a tubular diamond drill is needed, which is expensive, wears out quickly, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:

We will select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
We will securely fix the vessel that we will drill so that the drill enters along the normal (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
Around the place of the future hole, we will fashion a roller 4-6 mm high from plasticine.
Let's rub a couple of pieces of fine skin against each other over some pallet to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
Pour it into the hole and drip 3-5 drops of engine oil - you can drill.

For drilling, it is better to put a drill with a copper tube clamped in a chuck into a bed that turns it into a desktop drilling machine. Such beds are sold in tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefit to the artisan is invaluable. Moreover, you can buy a turntable with a degree scale to the bed.

They drill ceramics with copper and corundum in jerks: slightly pressed - raised - pressed again - raised. Abrasive particles first eat into copper and drill, but then they break out and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum “plating” on copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube, with each feed, falls exactly into the already selected groove.

Electrical fittings

For a novice lighting engineer, it is best, perhaps, to use cartridges for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27H, and the drawing is shown in fig. It will not work to mount such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if there is an M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, with a manual wrench, cut the thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting it and not rolling it, very difficult, even with grease. Under mounting with flanges, you will have to make a mounting ring, as described in the article on lampshades, it is much easier.

Note: if a wall lamp is made in which the lamp is located along the base, then cartridges with a side bar are usually used, see fig., but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also get by with a flange cartridge: an Ω-shaped clamp is bent from the wire and fastened to the base with self-tapping screws.

The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the lamp to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is mandatory not only for the sake of ease of installation, but also according to the requirements of safety regulations: suddenly the chandelier breaks, its thinner wires break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring is not affected, which will prevent an accident and ceiling-grooving repair work.

It is better to take a terminal block of the “comb” type, see Fig.:

Such are compact, reliable, exclude accidental short circuits, and by biting the jumpers between sections, it is elementary to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to enter no more than 2 stranded wires with a copper cross section of up to 1.4 square meters into each terminal. mm in total and not more than 1 single-core, regardless of the cross-sectional area of its conductive core.

About wooden lamps

The tree, on the one hand, is easily processed and looks solidly finished. On the other hand, to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological methods. Which we will consider.

cable channels

The first problem that arises in the manufacture of a wooden lamp is how to make channels for the cable in long parts. To do this, without special equipment, “on the knee”, you can use a wood drill with a narrowed 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly put on it, crimped, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to make a manual collar; to facilitate and greater accuracy of work, it is better to take a two-band drill.

Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:

At both ends of the workpiece, blind holes of the desired diameter are drilled, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to ensure that they go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
They are drilled with the described manual wrench alternately from both ends, each time passing no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
The chips from the holes after each pass are carefully removed;
After the jumper is broken, the hole passes through twice, from one and the other end. This is necessary to remove the step inside, which the cable can catch on when tightened.

How to bend a tree?

It is quite possible to make a lamp from bent wooden parts with your own hands: seasoned thin-layer wood softens under heating, without delamining, but when cooled down, retains the shape given to it. Bamboo, walnut and soft woods are the easiest to bend, e.g. Linden. Harder - wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. For bending oak, beech, mountain ash, and other hardwoods, it is better for a novice cabinetmaker not to take on. MDF also bends well.

The wood is bent either steamed in boiling water, or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is simpler, but suitable, except for bamboo, for a few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because. wood does not swell and when cooled, respectively, does not shrink.

To bend wood, you need a piece of steel pipe: with a welded end for steaming or with both open for dry bending. The pipe for steaming is installed obliquely, a workpiece is placed in it, poured with water on top and boiled. Boiling water must be violent so that the workpiece is bathed in steam bubbles. The process is continued for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can take out the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water instead of boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe with a building hair dryer. First, on a sample of wood, you need to check what temperature it can withstand without charring and cracking.

How to tighten cables?

The cables are tightened into the tubular parts of the fixtures using a guide rod - "fishing rods" - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. "Fishing rod" should be completely flat; a smoothly curved wire wound from a reel can also be crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the “fishing rod” is straightened, stretching it through a rag tightly clenched in a fist. The best guides are made from enameled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.

"Fishing rod" is introduced from the far end. Before that, its tip is tightly bent, see Fig., To be rounded. The thrust is pushed into the curved channels, slightly feeding and turning. When moving from channel to channel (see below), the running end is directed with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.

When the end of the rod appears from the opposite side, it is cleaned by 20-30 mm and tinned. The cable wires are cleaned and tinned for the same amount, up to 3 per 1 "fishing rod". Then everything is twisted together and soldered. The twist is folded opposite to the direction of tightening so that it does not cling. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and pulling the guide. When tightening, the cable in the channel must not be taut all the time! If it is hooked, they pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull it again.

Note: up to 4 2-wire double-insulated cables with a cross-section of copper wires up to 0.5 sq. M can be pulled into a straight metal tube with an inner diameter of 12 mm. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree - only 1 of the same cable.

Starting from the ceiling

Suspension of the lamp to the ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable node. Hanging fixtures at the 1st point is allowed only if the base is a viscous durable material, for example. oak beams, pos. a) in fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the luminaire anchor must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must work in compression, pos. c) - e).

A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using a mounting plate, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the mounting holes in the plank should be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is plasterboard, or suspended, or stretched, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the level of the decorative one using wooden or metal crosses or plywood boards, at the top there. How to make a suspension in some other cases, see below.

The main requirement for the suspension is that the lamp should never hang on wires. It should be held either by a rigid bar, or a strong cord / rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. Under the top cap of the gimbal, the power cable must lie in a loose loop, and must not be pulled, pinched or pinched anywhere.

How to make a lamp?

Now he will try to reduce the information received into a single product, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as sincerely as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:

Complex and / or technological operations requiring special skills are avoided in every possible way.
Adhesive or solder joints are used only auxiliary, holding the parts to be joined from displacement. The product assembled without gluing and soldering should, in the absence of external influences, remain intact in its normal position for an indefinitely long time.
From an additional tool, we will try to get by with a hand-held electric drill and a small removable bench vise with a screw clamp for attaching to the table.

Let's start with a chandelier, as the most complex type of household lamp.

Chandelier

On a cord

The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, 4 additional holes will have to be drilled in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green in pos. 1a. Cord knots must be knitted that do not slip or unravel, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord - any non-rotting cross lay (eg linen) with a diameter in an unstretched state of 8 mm or more. Cords and ropes of spiral lay are not intended for long-term tensile load!

The most critical part is the suspension hook (red CP). It must be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod can withstand weight up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made hook for a chandelier, it will not be worse.

Suspension rods with the same weight - from 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg, you can get by with 1.5 mm, and with a weight of up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheet 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for weights up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.

Note: steel soldering technology at home is described in.

In this case, it is better to fix the upper cup from slipping with a rubber ring, because. the spring washer can crush the cable passing under it. A good pallet is obtained from a computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the ceiling, it is turned down, respectively, with the painted or mirror side. Radial cuts are made under the stretch marks of the lampshade in the pallet.

The top cup and cap are made of plastic utensils, see above. The cap lies freely on the pallet. Glue - any assembly.

Note: the bottom nut of the cartridge must enter the hole in the pan, and not press it. Otherwise, it may be difficult to repair or clean the chandelier.

On the tube

In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (pos. 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to knit a knot on their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of pulls can be anything from 3. Accordingly, the ring can also be made without an additional row of holes, such as is described in the article on lampshades.

It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in the center of it 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link of a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. P.

An eye for a hook in the suspension bar is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After that (and not before), a hole is drilled for laying the cable, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A bar for a lamp weight of up to 15 kg can be made from pipes of the following types:

Seamless steel - inner diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing - painting or covering with a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) of the desired color.
Steel with a seam - vnutr. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finish is the same.
Copper gas in a plastic sheath - vnutr. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. Finishing is not necessary, and so it shines with copper for years. You can not solder, under the adhesive connection you need to remove the plastic coating in that place.
For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper - int. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. Very easy to solder and glue. To preserve the copper sheen, the finished rod should be coated twice with a water-based clear acrylic varnish, diluted by half with distilled water.
Simple red copper - int. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is soldered after stripping, you need to use flux paste with borax. It darkens with time and under coating, so it is better to make lamps in retro style from such tubes.
Plumbing propylene - very durable, but do not stick and, of course, do not solder. It is useless to finish, the design in any case turns out to be terrifying.

many-horned

From the tubes, you can make chandeliers with brackets-horns for individual illuminators. The device for connecting the horns with the rod is shown in pos. 5. The horns, with their even number, are connected in pairs with through threaded studs M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for the studs are located at different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can horns, incl. with an odd number of them, fasten with pairs of small self-tapping screws for metal, however, then the cables must be tightened very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.

Note: complex / extended tube bends are formed section by section, gradually moving the manual pipe bender along the length of the future bend.

If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover the knot of their connection with the barbell with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown by a dotted line in pos. 5). In addition, then the laying of cables will be much simpler: a terminal block will fit under the cap, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire will go up in the bar.

Multi-track chandeliers are most often made with switchable light. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Do not forget - SB switches (switches) must be included in the phase wire! And yet, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped with protective grounding, never use a ground wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply scheme (grounded or isolated neutral)! The earthing switch is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in properly arranged wiring is black. But in any case, before starting electrical work, you need to find zero and phase with a phase indicator!

About phases, zero and earth

The safety regulations (PTB), electrical installations (PUE) and the Code of Practice (SP) for the production of electrical work for related industries (for example, construction) unambiguously regulate the color of the insulation of only ground wires - yellow with a green stripe; colors for phase conductors A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system is an isolated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to designate phase A in white or light gray. without a hitch" is not always possible.

The chandelier is heavy...

For ceiling lights weighing from 15 kg, fastening on the 1st rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the luminaire with 3 times the margin.

The cradle is fixed to the ceiling using a triangular or square carrier plate made of steel with a thickness of 5 mm or more, pos. 7 in fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is mandatory: without it, if one of the corner fixtures is excessively loosened, the mechanical load will “slam” onto the next weakest one, the suspension will break out like a domino and the chandelier will “all of a sudden” collapse.

Corner attachment points should be located on a conditional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the weight of the chandelier in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in the concrete ceiling must be from 9 of their diameters, as with a 2-point suspension on a plank, see above. Eyelets or hooks under the branches of the cradle are welded to the carrier plate. Homemade eyelets can be made from 6mm wire rod.

… and ultralight

Fans make a lot of lamps from disposable plastic tableware, PET bottles and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the cartridge in the lampshade / ceiling lamp from the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, the cartridge is taken E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. The "ears" of the cartridge with the help of a sewing needle are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with threads, thin copper wire or fishing line.

Secondly, the suspension of an ultralight lamp can also be made cradle, but from a fishing line. Its branches are inserted into the ceiling cap along with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (we recall that it should not be stretched, pinched or pressed anywhere) is twisted or twisted into a spiral, then an ignorant guest may at first be dumbfounded: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?

Floor lamp

A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is, in general, an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in fig. above with fixture designs. First: the bar (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an inner diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring - galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.

Further, in the lower support of the floor lamp, a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure should be provided for attaching the bottom of the rack. Under the floor lamp of the usual type, a cross will go from about 450x450 mm from an oak beam 100x100 mm. A blind hole with a depth of 75-80 mm is drilled in the center of it along the outer diameter of the rack, and it is glued into the socket with mounting glue. Also glue the rack into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in design and strength, to apply a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum) on the glue. The described design allows the amateur to do without custom-turned parts in the manufacture of a floor lamp.

Table lamp

A working table lamp based on our principles of construction is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: a fairly massive and durable base (wood, plastic) with a stepped through hole along the axis. A lampshade ring is laid on the step and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then at the same time it will press the whiskers of the lampshade extensions and it will not hang out.

Note: for the base of a table lamp from ceramic or glassware, you need to make a pommel-knob with a stepped hole mounted on its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.

For outdoor lighting

Let's leave outdoor lamps for 220 V purchased: it is impossible to make a "forever" sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed case with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable entry is quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.

However, things may not come to electricity: for temporary lighting in the garden or at a picnic and in the 21st century, an ordinary candle is often more convenient and cheaper, it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from a coffee can in just a few minutes, see the video:

Video: do-it-yourself candle lantern from a coffee can

Such a lamp is suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be fixed on the lid, which is more reliable.

A permanent outdoor lamp should already be electric. The main problem with this is reliable sealing. Here again, glassware with a screw-on lid comes to the rescue: an outdoor lamp works well from a can. In this case, since a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a vessel from under conservation. The cable entry pipe is made by breaking through the cover with a round pointed rod. For complete tightness, aquarium silicone is applied once and for all to the rim of the lid from the inside before screwing.

The lamp "once and for all" involves the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, because. non-living or working premises are illuminated. Taking into account these conditions, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage from an LED strip: it will give quite bright lighting with a negligible consumption of electricity. An example of the manufacture of such a lamp, see:

Video: do-it-yourself garden lamp in 15 minutes

In the garden and in general on the site, high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, if only not to get off the path and see the door to the bathhouse, cellar, barn or bathroom. On the other hand, it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp autonomous: here the point is not the cost of electricity, but the cable, and who would like to make trenches in a well-groomed area?

Garden lights powered by solar panels (SB) and a buffer battery (battery) are commercially available, but they are either expensive or short-lived. Let's try to figure out whether it is possible to do it on our own, especially since it is quite possible:

4 white LEDs with a current of 20 mA each in a milky glass or frosted plastic bottle cover will more or less acceptable for garden needs illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m. With a current of 10 mA each, in the light spot you can still see where the stone is, and where is the pit. Total average 60 mA.
The battery, taking into account the weak recharging in winter and the decrease in capacity in the cold, should give the maximum current of the illuminators for at least 30 hours. Finger batteries for 2500-3500 mAh, frost-resistant up to -20, are on sale. We take the minimum allowable battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
Voltage drop across the luminous diode approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the battery discharge mode, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, for a total battery voltage we get 6 V.
The SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery of 74%, should give a current of approx. 75 mA. Based on the winter in the middle latitudes, we take a rated current of 100 mA.
Also, taking into account the efficiency of the battery in terms of energy and voltage losses during charging, we take the SB voltage of 9 V.
In order for the battery resource not to fall from overcharging, the recharge current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mAh and a short circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is met, even more so with a 3500 mAh battery. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply put a silicon rectifier diode.

A diagram of an autonomous garden lamp, built taking into account the described conditions, is shown in the figure:

Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to degradation of the active medium due to overcharging, and only in exceptional cases can it reach a deep discharge; therefore, its resource remains normal when operating in harsh temperature conditions. "Zest" here - SB. Their internal resistance is large and non-linear, according to a power law, grows with increasing load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly greater than the nominal one. From this point of view, it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs in this scheme.

The CU control device closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the "twilight" level. VD1 will close by then and the battery will stop charging. It is connected to the battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, the reed switch is better, because a conventional one with a low voltage coil will take more current than all LEDs. In this case, it is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, almost to zero. Since the current is constant here, the thyristor, once opened, will not “quiet” until the battery is completely planted.

About aquarium lighting

For lighting aquariums, special linear fluorescent lamps are used. Not the same as flower shelf lamps: the spectrum of aquarium lamps is adapted to the optical properties of water and the vital needs of aquatic plants. Both lamps are unsuitable for general lighting of premises: the light that favors photosynthesis is by no means always useful for human vision.

There is no doubt that the right lighting in the kitchen sets the tone for the whole interior. A chandelier can become a central element in this cozy and warm room.

Using improvised materials - or even junk - you can make a lampshade from threads, an eco-style lamp from jute twine or plastic bottles, or you can make a real masterpiece - a beautiful chandelier from wooden or glass beads.

And you can not only hang a lamp made by yourself in the kitchen or in the dining area, but also give it to your loved ones.

Method 1. From improvised materials - everyone can!

The simplest do-it-yourself lamp is made of threads. Indeed, even a child can handle such a design. So, to make a chandelier of threads, we need:

Threads - you can take ordinary jute twine or thick cotton threads, with a total length of at least 100 meters, the color is chosen based on your imagination and the existing interior;
PVA glue and a brush for its application;
Petrolatum;
2 balloons - one for work, the second for testing; it is better to take a ball not ordinary, but round, then the shape of the lamp will be the correct shape.

Advice! A children's or rubber beach ball is also suitable. For very large fixtures, a fitball is suitable, for example.

Work on creating a ball of threads is carried out in the following sequence:

We inflate the balloon of the required size. Do not forget that the resulting lampshade made of threads will repeat the shape of the ball. Draw with a marker one or two circles at the top and bottom (more below).
Pour the glue into a container and carefully process the threads. And the ball itself can be coated with Vaseline with a brush.

Advice! Do not immediately apply glue to all the threads - it is better to move along the place of winding.

This is followed by winding the threads on the ball, taking into account the drawn holes - it depends on the density of the winding how your lampshade will turn out in the end.

After the ball is wrapped, you need to leave the future chandelier to dry for at least 24 hours.
The ball bursts and its remains are easily removed from the solid structure that has become. As a result, a lampshade made of solid threads was obtained.
A hole is cut from above - under the cartridge.
It is necessary to check the strength - another ball is inserted into the lamp and inflated. This will demonstrate the flexibility of the design.

In this way, you can also perform local lighting in the kitchen by creating several lamps from threads with your own hands. And you can hang it in the dining area, as shown in the photo.

Do not forget that for a ball of threads you can make additional decor in the form of interesting coloring, beads, butterflies or artificial flowers, or you can make a whole bunch of balls of different sizes.

By the same principle, you can come up with your own unique lamp design. For example, from lace, or a ceiling lamp as in the photo below.

Method 2. Create a masterpiece - you need to try!

Excellent kitchen lighting will turn out if you make a lamp of beads or fabric with your own hands. Get a lamp in style or a real chandelier-chandelier.

For this job you will need:

Old hoop, garden basket, hanging metal planter, or wire to create a frame;
Decorative chains;
Beads, beads, ribbons, strong threads;
Cartridge with a lamp.

The lamp will be a two- or three-level structure of rings located one above the other and connected by chains or wire.

Rings can be taken in different sizes, creating a lampshade in the spirit of vintage classics, or the same - this is the lighting that is done in.

The base of the lamp is certainly painted, wrapped or decorated, after which they start stringing beads.

The consumption of beads in this project is as follows:

Lower part: beads with a diameter of 16 mm, 15 pcs. on a thread;

Upper part: beads with a diameter of 12 mm, 31-32 pcs. on a thread.

Here you can vary the degree of tension and the number of threads.

Advice! Work should be carried out by first hanging the chandelier and inserting a cartridge into it.

By analogy, you can create a chandelier made of artificial fruits for the kitchen. And subdued lighting will turn out if you use fabric for covering the frame. As a rule, such a lampshade is made for country styles and.

Method 3. Lamps made from waste materials - for a modern kitchen!

The most original lamp can be made from such waste material as plastic bottles and disposable spoons - it's beautiful, cheap and environmentally friendly!

We make a lampshade in the style of minimalism and - no additional decorations from threads and beads, only matte white or colored plastic. To make such subdued kitchen lighting with your own hands, we need:

Base made from a 5 liter plastic bottle;
Cartridge with wire and lamp;
Glue for high-quality fixation;
Lots of disposable spoons.

To make a chandelier with your own hands, cut out the bottom of the bottle and cut off the handles of the spoons (not completely, so that a small stalk remains). Using glue, we fix the cut spoons on the base bottle. They need to be placed evenly, in order, then the lampshade will look attractive.

Advice! Each next row is overlapped, without gaps.

The resulting chandelier will resemble fish scales. However, it should be remembered that such a design is quite dense, which means that additional lighting will definitely be needed in the kitchen.

The shape of the lamp can be different, for example, in the form of a lotus.

From disposable spoons you can make such decorations.

A lamp made of plastic bottles, or rather from their bottoms, made by hand, may seem lacy or consisting of many small flowers.

Advice! Such a lampshade can be made not white, but colored - which means that you need to take colored bottles or paint it with paint of the original color: copper, gold, steel, pink, black, etc.

The resulting lampshade can be hung in the kitchen or over the dining table.

Let your kitchen be cozy and bright! We wish you creative success and present some more great ideas for making kitchen lamps with your own hands from improvised means.

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