How to make a bath with your own hands is a budget option. Bath do-it-yourself interior decoration

The use of the bath has long been considered not only a hygienic, but also a wellness procedure. People visiting the bath are less likely to get colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases of the nervous system. A wooden bath is considered traditional: the walls of the steam room “breathe” in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.

Peculiarities

To date, there are many different options for the interior decoration of the bath - these are gas silicate blocks, and brick, and so far only magnelite is gaining popularity. However, the most suitable finish continues to be considered natural materials, namely wood. Thanks to wooden lining, it becomes possible to create the specific microclimate and cozy atmosphere necessary for a bath or sauna. When planning to sheathe a bath with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such decoration indoors.

The choice of lining and calculation of the area

For high-quality work, it is necessary to choose the right material and calculate its quantity.

Sheathing the inner surface of a room such as a bath is necessary only with materials that can withstand:

• large temperature fluctuations;
• high humidity;
• constant contact with water and various substances.

Board type and material grade

Today, the building materials market is filled with a variety of clapboards from many manufacturers. Lamels are produced both in Russia and abroad. Eurolining is produced with various profile cross-section options. Also, wooden lining can differ in the quality of the surface of the back and front sides of the board, the shape of the lock and its dimensions, the type of material and other equally significant parameters.

Most often, lining of several popular profiles is used.

• Eurolining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye during sheathing.
• Softline with more rounded corners.
• Calm. The seam with this finish is almost invisible, because it does not have recessed shelves. It can imitate timber, have both sharp enough and smoother rounded edges.

• Landhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with various patterns. The drawing on the lamellas of the loungehouse is applied using curly milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper ones.
• Blockhouse (siding).
• Double sided lining. Both the groove and the spike of such a board are exactly in the middle, so both sides are equally even - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to “breathe”), so it is not very well suited for interior decoration of wet rooms such as a bathhouse, pool or sauna.

To determine the grade of the purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty lies in the fact that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the marking. All lining is produced using the same equipment and according to a single technology, so the grade of the material is determined during the inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.

• Premium (or extra). Almost perfect lining quality. Neither branches nor cracks are allowed on the lamellas. A light blue tint, small crevices, roughness and roughness are only possible from the inside.
• Class A Branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and occur no more often than once in a section one meter long. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, non-through. It is desirable that the manufacturer putty them on their own. All other defects are permissible only on the inside.
• Class B. Knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. The presence of through cracks and opened pockets is also allowed.
• Class C- this is the entire remaining lining, on which blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. There may even be non-prostrings on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that the lining of this class is unacceptable to use for finishing walls.

Wood

A bath is not only a steam room, but also a washing room, dressing room or even a pool. For each of the premises, it will be more appropriate to choose wood of a certain species.

Wood is divided into two categories:

• coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
• deciduous: linden, aspen and others.

One of the most popular material options for eurolining is lime board. Linden is quite durable, does not change the structure of the fibers for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the lime bath is saturated with freshness and purity.

It is easy to work with aspen lining, time only makes this material stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy to restore its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used to decorate the hottest and most humid room in saunas - the steam room.

It is also allowed to use cedar for its decoration, however, due to the fact that the cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may occur when touching the sunbeds and walls made of this material. Coniferous tree species are sheathed mainly in a washing room or dressing room. Pine and spruce produce abundant resin and, like cedar, have a high heating rate, but using this material will save money and allow you to choose from an extensive decorative range of lining. It should be noted that coniferous wood must be pre-resined in order to avoid a large number of streaks on the walls.

Fixing options

There are two options for placing elements when facing the sauna. You can upholster the wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of a bar connected to each other with ordinary nails. Each of the methods has both advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of the horizontal option are:

• reducing the chance of water ingress and stagnation in the seams, since fastening is carried out with a spike up, which allows water that has already got inside to drain down;
• the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
• even the highest quality wood is subject to rotting processes, and the horizontal method of fastening the lamellas will allow replacing only the material that is located below and has been more damaged, without dismantling the entire wall;
• with horizontal laying of the lining, the drying out of wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

Vertical finishing of the sauna with eurolining is faster and easier than horizontal. This method also has its advantages:

• rapid flow of moisture along the vertical seams in the wall;
• when using the "groove-comb" system, the risk of stagnation of water and destruction of the fibers of the material from constant humidity is reduced;
• this finish better retains the heat of the room.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting the sheathing itself, it is necessary to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheathed surface and choose how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside with cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered with a layer of insulating material with foil on top to avoid moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the crate. It is also necessary to mount a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can a frame be nailed to the walls, on which the eurolining itself is attached. First of all, they install the crate and sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, and only then they start working with the walls.

crate

After carrying out all the preparatory work, you can proceed to the creation of a wooden frame - crates. First you need to carefully prepare the beam itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber be treated with impregnations. First of all, racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the timber in advance, since the vertical and horizontal layouts can be combined on the same wall. The profile can be fastened with ordinary nails if the log cabin of the bath is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the beam needs to be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.

Next, racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can put an additional piece of board or use a hanger for the frame of drywall boards.

Ventilation

For the full functioning of the bath or sauna, as well as in order to comply with safety regulations, good ventilation is required.

The technology of its installation is as follows.

• Already during the installation of the crate, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the second - no higher than 150-300 mm above the floor. It is better if the second hole is placed near the furnace.
• For the air duct, it is better to use an aluminum corrugation with a section diameter of 100 mm. It is necessary to place the holes for mounting the corrugations in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the supply of fresh air.

• The use of polystyrene foam as a heat-insulating material when installing ventilation is strongly discouraged. It is better to use non-combustible materials, such as basalt (mineral) wool.

Warming

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of the walls. Due to constantly high humidity, the bath room needs special fastening and multi-layer insulation.

First you need to lay a waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing material to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface with wooden slats. The cotton wool itself must be laid between the frame (bars) of the crate with an overlap of 10 mm.

It is necessary to lay a foil film on top of the mineral wool, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the outgoing heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the beams of the crate with an overlap.

You can also use a simpler method and insulate the walls of the sauna with the help of already foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.

Mounting

Fastening eurolining in baths and saunas is done only by a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware with which the lamellas are attached to the frame heats up so much that it can cause pain when touching its head. Secondly, the fastening metal can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And, finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using lining in very light colors.

The lining of the steam room in the bath should always be carried out first on the ceiling. It starts from the front door. The lining is attached either to nails or with the help of a kleimer, since a small finishing nail will not be able to withstand the weight of a lamella hanging on the ceiling in this position. A kleimer is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from destruction during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to nail into the groove or put on the kleimers, so you can use a countersunk nail without a cap. When hammering such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, so it is necessary to use a hammer. At the joints with the walls, it is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm so that the air circulates freely, and the lamellas, slightly swollen from moisture, do not break each other.

The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap of 10-30 mm near the floor in order to avoid rotting of the boards at the points of their junction with the floor. Docking the individual parts of the lining closely when finishing a room such as a bath is not worth it. It is better to leave a small margin so that when swelling, the entire wall sheathing does not deform and does not go “wave” due to constant contact with water.

The clearance is done as follows:

• initially, the lamella is driven all the way into the groove of another lamella already installed, small marks are made along the seam line between the two boards with a sharp object;
• the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
• the algorithm is repeated with each next lamella;
• the joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indents both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.

With the help of lamellas, you can also sheathe doorways by cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.

The window slope is installed using a starting bar attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached with one end to the wooden beam, and the rest to the plastic. Such a simple option is suitable for metal-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on a slope and lay a wooden lining on it. This method is well suited for wooden windows that have a decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not very wide, you can simply veneer it with a wooden flashing.

The finishing of the washing room is carried out similarly to the finishing of the steam room, however, it is imperative that the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are laid near the floor with a horizontal installation method) be fixed at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. Also in the washing room, you can use PVC lining or plastic panels that are decorated to look like wood to create a unified design. Tiles and ceramics are also great as an alternative finish.

The installation of a dressing room is no different from the installation of a washing room, but it is impossible to mount a lining near the firebox. The walls near the stove are best overlaid with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-combustible coating are often used. It is not allowed to connect the chimney pipe to anything other than a metal screen fixed to the ceiling. Behind the screen, it is desirable to wrap the chimney with mineral wool.

In order for the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands to be done correctly in stages, you should carefully consider the selection of material.

In addition, the correctness and sequence of actions is also not an unimportant moment.

Interior decoration is made of wood of various species. For each room it is better to choose its own type of wood.

Material selection

For a steam room, the most suitable is linden. It perfectly retains its properties when exposed to temperature, while it does not emit resins in large quantities. Also, the linden does not heat up so much and does not give the possibility of getting burns.

When finishing the dressing room and washing room, it is better to use - larch and cedar. This is the most suitable wood for such rooms. It holds heat well and is not afraid of moisture. At the same time filling the premises with a light aroma of wood.

In no case can not be used - pine. Especially for the steam room. Since it releases resins in large quantities, which, due to their high concentration, can worsen the well-being of those present.

In addition, it does not withstand high temperatures, which often leads to warping and cracking.

Today, the wood of the tree - abachi - is becoming more and more popular. But due to the growth of this tree on the territory of the African continent, its price remains quite high.

Do not use synthetic materials for the steam room. Materials made from pressed sawdust will also be short-lived. But at the same time, they are quite suitable for the device of the dressing room.

It is worth noting that these types of wood are the most preferred, but not mandatory.

Tool selection and work steps

When the bath is ready, you can proceed to the interior decoration of the bath in stages. It should be noted that if the bath is made of a log house, then you should wait some time for the building to shrink.

To carry out all facing work, you will need the following tools:

• A hammer;
• Hacksaw or jigsaw;
• Drill and a set of drills for wood;
• Screwdriver with a set of bits;
• Fasteners and hardware.

We will consider how to do internal work with our own hands using the example of finishing a bath combined with a steam room, a sink and a separate dressing room.

Floor arrangement. The floor can be made of wood or concrete.

Wooden floor. First, a crate is made of a wooden beam. Then an untreated draft board is laid on it - this will be the so-called draft floor.

A well-planed larch or oak board is laid on the subfloor. But it should be noted that oak is rather slippery when wet.

Laying the last layer can be carried out both close to each other, and leaving uniform holes for better drainage of water.

Concrete floor. It is poured with a solid mass on the entire surface of the bath. The main thing is not to forget when installing both sexes, to observe the slope towards the main drain.

After the concrete hardens, a wooden crate of timber is laid on top of it, which is knocked down to the size of the room. It is better to make several such gratings so that you can remove them.

But at the same time, do not forget that the concrete floor will be colder than the wooden one.

For this, a material is laid that will act as thermal insulation. The entire perimeter of the walls is sheathed with wooden beams. The step of strengthening the beam is forty to fifty centimeters. To do this, you can use screws or nails.

Sheet foam is also used as thermal insulation. On top of all layers, lining is installed.

It is attached directly to the crate. The blanks are cut to the required dimensions, then they are inserted into the grooves and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

Ceiling arrangement. There is nothing difficult in this either. The same crate is made as in the construction of walls. Next, the lining is installed in the same order as when finishing the walls.

Dressing room trim. For these works, wood-based panels can be used. Before their installation, thermal insulation and crate should be installed as a frame for the facing material.

If the walls of the dressing room are warm and even enough, then sheathing can be done without insulation. Linoleum can be used to finish the floor, however, a wooden floor would be preferable.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath is gradually reduced to such simple works as:

• Tool preparation;
• Purchase of the selected material;
• Making a crate from a bar, with a step of no more than 40 centimeters;
• Installation of the crate for all rooms of the bath using self-tapping screws or nails;
• Laying a heat-insulating layer;
• Installation of lining on the crate;
• Finishing work.

For the arrangement of benches inside the main room of the bath, well-hewn boards with a thickness of more than three centimeters are used. Bath furniture should also be made of wood or wicker.

Thus, it becomes clear that the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands in stages is not particularly difficult even for beginners.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath in stages (step by step instructions)

The article will appeal to everyone who plans to finish the interior of the bath with their own hands.

Finishing the bath inside in stages independently

You can be an avid lover of spas and completely deny Russian traditionalism, but in your heart you still cherish the idea of ​​your own bathhouse. Therefore, the question of the interior decoration of the bath is far from idle for you. After all, there are many nuances: what materials to choose, how to follow all the rules for finishing, etc.

Usually there are three rooms in the bath:

The arrangement of a font or a pool in addition to them means getting an incomparable pleasure - to plunge into cool water. Read also a photo report on the construction of a bath with your own hands.

Constant high humidity, coupled with high temperatures - this is the microclimate of one of the specific buildings - baths. One of the requirements for these buildings is that in order to retain heat for a longer time, heating must proceed according to an appropriate scheme. These points are certainly taken into account when finishing.

Choosing a material

First, we decide what material to choose. Moreover, we do this taking into account the principles that will be observed when building a steam room:

• It is necessary to exclude the release of toxins, phenolic and other resins at high temperatures. That is, we are talking about the principle of environmental friendliness.
• Surfaces must have the ability to withstand considerable thermal loads, without the appearance of cracks and deformation if a temperature difference occurs.
• The presence of good waterproofing properties is a fact that is obvious.
• Some types of wood tend to keep the temperature on the surface. This leads to overheating of the room, difficulty breathing in it. The case can even turn into a burn. For example, such types of wood are walnut, oak. Therefore, it is better to opt for breathable breeds. The latter include larch, linden.
• Long service life, economical use - these two factors are mutually compatible. With all the good properties of pink larch, finishing a bathhouse from the inside using it will be a very costly undertaking. However, for the manufacture of some elements (this may be a bench), you can give preference to more expensive breeds. We are talking about cedar, fir, etc., while for wall and ceiling cladding, you should choose pine or linden.

Steam room finishing

Going into any bath, we find ourselves in a steam room. Ancillary bath equipment is placed in this room: basins, brooms. It is assumed that the people here will feel comfortable. Therefore, when choosing the material that we take for finishing the steam room, we take into account the following characteristics:

1. So that it is resistant to heat changes and is able to give off heat.
2. He singled out phytoncides and resins useful for the human body. Based on this, it is worth thinking about linden and larch.

The dressing room is designed so that people can "cool down". This is the coldest place in the bath. The recommended material for its decoration is pine, which saturates the air with flavonoids. A steamed body will benefit from these substances.

wall decoration

It is advisable to start facing the walls in the bath not immediately, but after one or two years after the completion of construction. During this time, the building will shrink.

Finishing the bath involves the solution of the following issues:

What shape will lumber be chosen. If you stop at the board, you will have to endlessly file sizes, worry about how to hide the fastening hats, how to protect them from such misfortunes as corrosion and overheating.

The walls in the bathhouse look with great color, for the lining of which lined semi-logs are used.

A rational way is the interior decoration of baths with the help of lining. This refers to the groove type of fixation. There is one thing: finishing cramped rooms with clapboard leads to concealment of usable space. An important aspect is that even an inexperienced beginner can figure out how to install this sheathing material.

Requirements for lining

The lining must be of high quality. If it was bought overdried and you did not keep it in the bath for a day, swelling of the material may occur in the process of taking bath procedures. If it is bought raw, there is a possibility of large cracks appearing after the lining dries.

Check that there are no knots or dents on the lining surface.

Regardless of what type of wood was used in the manufacture of lining, remember that it is unacceptable to use varnishes, stains and other chemical treatments for wooden surfaces in the steam room. High temperatures will lead to a negative effect of chemical fumes on the human body. Instead of the intended benefits, a visit to the bathhouse will bring more harm.

We are erecting a crate

When choosing a lining, you will have to do the construction of the crate. For the latter, a beam with a width of 30 mm is well suited. For its fastening, a step of 40-50 cm along the walls is used. Horizontally, the bars are laid using a level. The vertical parts of the crate are laid using a plumb line.

We install eurolining on the crate. It is better to do this, starting in the direction from the corners of the far wall and gradually moving towards the front door. In this case, the steam room will take on a look that will not be ashamed to boast.

After resolving the issue with sheathing, it is the turn to think over options for wall insulation. In some cases, craftsmen advise laying a layer of mineral insulation directly under the crate. However, in no case should you discount the type of load-bearing walls of the building. If concrete blocks or stone were used in the construction of the steam room, insulation is not needed. Otherwise, the issue of proper ventilation will be on the agenda.

We are engaged in waterproofing

Taking into account the experience gained in construction, you should definitely take care of good waterproofing. It will protect the material of the supporting structures. Popular waterproofing materials remain:

• aluminium foil;
• vapor barrier film, which is a modern analogue of aluminum foil.

In the event that waterproofing is combined with insulation, it must be laid on top of rolled materials. So that there is a small overlap in those places where the waterproofing is connected to the crate. In the steam room, the absence of thermal insulation is allowed. Such options are a cobbled building or a log house. The seams that exist between the logs are simply caulked.

To prevent a possible fire, we pay attention to the place where the pipe exits in the ceiling. Iron or brick are the materials with which it must be overlaid.

We equip the floor

The floor part of the bath is also the subject of close attention when finishing. Work on its protection begins simultaneously with the insulation of the walls or after the completion of work.

Due to frequent drafts (which are caused by the opening of the door) from a concrete screed covered with a board, the effect will be minimal. Then you can think about arranging an air cushion. There are several ways to do this.

Screed from empty bottles

The most economical is to make a screed from empty bottles. Below we will see how this is done:

1. We take the bottles (it is important that the polyethylene is strong), tightly twist the lids.
2. We lay the grate on top of the concrete screed. It should be made of welded rods or be tied with wire.
3. Then comes the turn of the bottles. They are laid as close as possible to each other. Almost rammed.
4. The next step is pouring the structure with concrete. Suitable for this purpose and self-leveling mixture for leveling floors.
5. And the last - we lay the flooring. A tile or a board can be chosen for it.

Sand and gravel pillow

The second option is the device of a sand-gravel cushion. We adhere to the previous scheme. The exception is the use of crates.

To preserve the air space between the particles, it is preferable that the sand and gravel be of a medium fraction.

Tiled flooring, lumber are options suitable for finishing the floor. The exception is the laminate board. The advantages of ceramic tiles include its durability, a wide variety of options. If you use porcelain stoneware with a woody texture, you will have to stock up on non-slip wooden ladders or wooden mats.

Building a wooden floor

For those who consider themselves true connoisseurs of the Russian bath, it is better to think about building a wooden floor. First, small pits are prepared on the basis that the depth of one of them should correspond to the size of the foundation of the heater, and the other should fit the size of the font. Then we proceed to the construction of sand and gravel layers, laying waterproofing. Be sure to provide a drain. And it remains to proceed with the laying of log logs (diameter 150 mm) or timber logs (200 * 200 mm).

We pour crushed stone between the lags. We take trimmings, expanded clay or slabs. They will be needed for the "sub-floor" device. There should be a gap between the boards. We lay two-, three-layer waterproofing. Materials suitable for it are roofing felt or glassine. We provide for the presence of a slope towards the drain. To lay ventilation between the "subfloor" and the main flooring, we remove the pipe.

We separate the steam room from the outside

So, we proceed to the final stage of work. Beam, cylindering - these are the materials, the use of which is logical for exterior decoration. An extreme option is a lining impregnated with an antiseptic.

• Initial processing of any wood siding is necessary. Fire retardant and antiseptic are suitable for it.
• Be sure to caulk the gaps between the joints. The use of special grout is also suitable. Then the surface is polished.
• To obtain a uniform shade of wood, a powerful grinder will come to the rescue. Each of the tree species involves the use of nozzles, which have a different measure of abrasiveness.
• The selected adhesive mixture must be resistant to moisture. Another of its necessary property is increased heat resistance.
• To cover the outer surface of wooden walls, drying oil or varnish is applied to protect against UV rays and microorganisms.

When deciding to clad concrete or brickwork with brick or other stone siding, consider the aesthetics of the exterior walls. Successful is the combination of stone cladding of the base with clapboard cladding.

We select bath furniture

For most of us, a bath without milk is simply unthinkable. For its manufacture, boards are taken (thickness 5 cm), they should not be resinous. Buy a fire-fighting compound in advance, you will need it to process the boards. Thick logs are used to support the shelf. Occasionally a wall is used. You should not worry about the size of the shelf, there are no strict requirements here. It would be optimal if the plane of this bath attribute is located at a distance of 120 cm from the ceiling level. Then, waving a broom, you will not have to limit yourself in movements. For benches, benches, an ordinary edged and well-polished board is well suited. The space for your own imagination and the manifestation of talents is unlimited here.

In order to ensure durability and an optimal microclimate for a wooden bath, we follow a number of necessary rules:

• Carrying out the inner lining, we monitor the vertical arrangement of the boards. They should be in close contact with each other.
• Baths do not need painting.
• Due to the constant ingress of water on the floor, it does not need to be insulated. Otherwise, the water simply will not be able to leave, which will lead to the rapid decay of the tree.
• To reduce heat loss in the bath, it is customary to install small windows.
• The use of dim lighting helps to create a relaxing atmosphere.

Bath interior

It is directly dependent on the preferences of the owner. This can be a stylization of a bathhouse as a goblin's hut, decorating it with ornate patterns, building stretch ceilings, etc.

Drawing conclusions

We have considered the main points for finishing the bath. Once again, there are two main principles to follow:

• Environmental friendliness of materials;
• High waterproofing properties of materials.

A skillful approach is a guarantee that you will be able to achieve a harmonious combination of several types of finishes. Moreover, each of them will be laid in accordance with the required technology.

We make the interior decoration of the bath with our own hands in stages

Materials and options for finishing the bath inside. Linden is the best wood for a steam room.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath: wall preparation and insulation, screen and cladding

Baths are very specific structures in which high humidity and high temperatures are constantly observed. At the same time, heating in some rooms of this design should proceed in such a way that heat is retained as long as possible.

And if you do the interior decoration of the bath with your own hands, then these points must be taken into account.

Amateur photo of the finished steam room trimmed with wood

step by step process

To begin with, it must be said that these finishing works are carried out in the steam room. The fact is that the decoration inside the bath with your own hands can be peculiar, but only in this room it is of the same type and requires strict adherence to the sequence. It is also worth mentioning that some of these buildings can consist entirely of one steam room.

Making crates in a steam room from cinder block

Wall preparation and insulation

• First of all, it should be said that the finishing inside the baths should begin with surface treatment with an antibacterial composition. At the same time, for wood or brick, they use exactly those materials that are designed to work with them.
• The purpose of this treatment is to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew. However, it also creates a waterproof layer.

The principle of finishing the steam room, shown as separate layers

• Further interior decoration of the baths involves the installation of crates. It is best done from wood so as not to create strong temperature drops on the surface. The location of the rails in the crate is chosen in accordance with the type of finish.
• After that, a heater is mounted in the cells formed by wood. At the same time, most of the manuals that tell you how best to finish the bath inside recommend using mineral wool for this. For such premises, it is an ideal insulation, which can be perfectly placed between the rails.

To fix mineral wool, it is better to use a cord or wire that is pulled between the slats.

The fact is that high temperatures have a very bad effect on the physical properties of plastic fasteners.

Room shielding to prevent infrared radiation from escaping

Screen and skin

• At the next stage, the installation instructions involve the manufacture of a special screen. As it is used a material with a reflective surface.
• The need for such a constructive solution is due to the fact that the heating elements of a sauna or bath stove emit a large amount of infrared radiation. At the same time, so that the price of kindling and maintaining the temperature is not so high, it should be saved inside, which reflective material does an excellent job of.

Installation of load-bearing planks over the protective screen for subsequent fixation of wooden lining on them

• It is necessary to install it not only on the walls to be finished, but also on the ceiling, even if the interior of the bath is being finished from sleepers.
• All joints of such a coating are overlapped and fixed with thermally stable adhesive tape. At the same time, professionals advise that it also has a reflective surface.

• There are such finishing options inside the bath, which suggest that the fastening will be done using additional rails. They are stuffed over the coating on the main structure of the crate.
• Many manuals that talk about how much the interior of the bath costs and how to produce it recommend saving and using special foil. However, it is very difficult to work with it, so as not to damage it during installation.

Fixing wooden lining with special fasteners

• Next, you need to make the skin. At the same time, many experts, answering the question of how to finish the bath inside, recommend using wood. This material is environmentally friendly, behaves well in these conditions and has a pleasant smell.
• However, it must be remembered that all wood used for finishing must be dry.

If necessary, it is possible to treat the material with a protective composition even before it is fixed, which will significantly increase the consumption of impregnation, but completely cover the module with impregnation

• Separate modules are fixed using special fasteners or self-tapping screws. At the same time, the cost of finishing the bath inside can greatly increase if you use a lining made of solid wood with the appropriate brackets, but this design will be the most durable and reliable.
• At the final stage of finishing work, professional attendants recommend using a special primer with additional antibacterial inclusions. It is applied to the surface for additional protection against moisture and fungus.
• It is worth noting that such an impregnation should be developed specifically for such conditions, so that when the temperature rises, it does not emit harmful substances.

There are special types of insulation that already have a reflective surface applied to them.

The use of such materials will help to save a lot.

In some cases, it is possible to finish such a room with bricks, but most attendants do not approve of this method.

• Waterproofing between the room and the insulation can be omitted. The fact is that it will be replaced by a material with a reflective surface.
• Before applying the final protective layer to the wood, it is recommended to treat it with fine sandpaper to eliminate all the villi on its surface.
• The width of the wooden crate should be such that the insulation is placed in it freely and without pressure.

Special impregnation designed to work in a sauna or bath

After watching the video in this article, you can get more detailed information on how the walls of the bath are finished. Also, on the basis of the text presented above, it should be concluded that this process is significantly different from normal work in a typical room. At the same time, special attention is paid to the process of preserving heat inside the room.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath: video instruction, the better to finish, options, photos

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath: video instruction, the better to finish, options, photos

Interior decoration of the bath

The interior decoration of wooden baths or similar foam block buildings should be such that everyone can feel that special atmosphere that should reign in the bath room. The materials for the interior decoration of the baths are presented in a wide variety, so it all depends on the size of the owner's wallet and their personal preferences. Hiring people is quite expensive, so for many, the best option is the interior decoration of the bath with their own hands. There is nothing complicated in this process, you need to familiarize yourself a little with the main rules of work.

Features of the interior decoration of the bath

The interior decoration of the bath performs important functions:

• additional waterproofing and insulation;
• extension of the service life;
• safety (minimization of burns);
• decorative.

Since the bath is operated in very harsh conditions, respectively, the material must be very durable and resistant. The main requirements for materials for a bath are:

• high strength indicators;
• durability;
• attractive appearance;
• resistance to various kinds of negative influences;
• environmental friendliness;
• hypoallergenicity.

Of course, wood has been and remains the most popular and best material for interior decoration of baths, as it is completely safe for the human body and combines all of the above qualities. As a rule, the walls of the bath are finished with wooden clapboard. This is a versatile material that is very easy to install and has an attractive appearance. In addition, in the gap between the walls and the lining, it is very convenient to install insulation and hide communications.

Finishing the steam room

To finish the walls of the steam room, lining made of linden, aspen, birch, larch or ash is used. These types of wood are resistant to decay, dry quickly and do not heat up to critical values ​​​​under the influence of high temperatures. Unlike conifers, they do not emit resins when heated. It is better not to use walnut or oak in a steam room, as they are very dense and retain heat on the surface. From this, the bath is very hot, the air becomes scalding and you can easily get burned.

Synthetic materials are forbidden to be used for the interior decoration of the steam room, since almost all of them, under the influence of high temperature, begin to release harmful substances, although they are harmless under normal conditions.

First you need to do the floor. If it is decided to make it from wood, then you need to install logs from logs. The floor must have a drain so that the water flows freely into the ground. If the floor is concrete, then it is better to tile it. It is not difficult to lay a tile: a special glue is applied to the concrete floor and each tile, they are leveled and pressed well so that there are no gaps. To make the seams even, you need to use special crosses, which are removed after the glue has set.

The ceiling must be protected from moisture. Therefore, the ceiling is covered with a vapor barrier, fixing it with wooden slats. It is also necessary to equip an air cushion using bars. In the place where the chimney will go outside, the ceiling must be sheathed with iron to reduce the risk of fire.

Walls made of logs or timber must be carefully caulked in those places where there are cracks. Then you can safely mount heat and vapor barrier materials. Only after that it is possible to start lining with a clapboard, which is fixed on a pre-assembled crate.

Washroom finish

For finishing the washing and rest rooms, experts recommend using lining made of spruce or pine. It is resistant to high humidity, looks beautiful, can be easily processed, polished and varnished. Since the washing temperature is low, there is nothing to fear from the release of resins. For washing, you can use other materials:

• waterproof drywall;
• plastic panels;
• tile;
• gypsum fiber.

Finishing process

Now you can consider the finishing process in stages. First, all finishing materials must be brought into the steam room or washing room and left for 24 hours. During this time, the material acclimatizes and acquires the temperature and humidity that is in the room.

Then you can proceed to the manufacture of crates of bars. After that, you need to install a vapor barrier and insulation. The final stage is the installation of lining. Before that, it must be treated with an antiseptic on both sides and dried well. It can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Diagonal mounting is also not uncommon.

The spike of each lining element is inserted into the groove of the previous one. Fixing is carried out with copper or bronze nails, as conventional fasteners will quickly rust.

As you can see, when finishing a brick bath or a building made of aerated concrete or a log house, it is better to use wood. Only it creates a special flavor and atmosphere of a real bath.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration of the bath in stages

Features of the interior decoration of the bath with their own hands in stages. The choice of material for decoration of various premises. Finishing the steam room, washing. Finishing process.

Do-it-yourself bath decoration

The article will be useful to those who plan to independently perform the interior decoration of bath rooms. Detailed step-by-step instructions with photos will help to produce sheathing and cladding with high quality and in compliance with building technologies.

Do-it-yourself bath decoration

Features of finishing bath rooms

In a classic Russian bath, there are always such rooms as:

If the area allows, in modern buildings they will equip a separate relaxation room, a billiard room, a swimming pool, a veranda, a barbecue area and even a full-fledged kitchen.

Bath room design Dining area in the living room

Despite fashion trends, the basic requirements for a bath remain unchanged:

• in the steam room, persistent hot steam is needed,
• in the washing room - non-slip floors and the possibility of convenient bath procedures,
• in general, the premises have a comfortable microclimate and an aesthetically pleasing environment.

The functionality of bath rooms largely depends on the correct finish. Even if your structure is built of round logs, and the walls look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing from the inside, it is recommended to finish the interior of the bath, as this will significantly extend its service life.

Finishing the steam room as a necessity

Each room has a number of features that must be considered when choosing materials and methods of cladding.

steam room

When finishing the steam room, the following nuances must be taken into account:

• sudden temperature changes, the upper limit of which can reach 120˚С;
• the presence of hot steam emitted by a powerful and concentrated stream;
• high humidity.

Bath and steam room layout

A universal version of the lining for the steam room is a sheathing board, which should have the following properties:

• do not absorb moisture;
• have a low heat capacity, therefore, do not heat up from high temperatures and contribute to the rapid heating of the steam room;
• have a pleasant color and smell, while not emitting resin when heated;
• protect walls from rot and mold, help purify the air.

The choice of lining for the bath

From the whole variety of lining, panels made of linden, aspen, cedar or African abachi tree are suitable for use in a steam room. When choosing a sheathing material, pay attention to the quality of the wood - well dried and hewn, without knots and notches on the surface, it will reliably serve for many years.

Facing in the steam room is not treated with varnish, paint or antiseptic. These substances are toxic and, when heated, can negate all the benefits of bath procedures.

Before sheathing, the walls and ceiling are insulated. The cheapest material for these purposes is mineral wool, which is most often used for decoration. Often, such a heater as basalt wool is used. It is more durable, as it is not subject to damage from the influence of high temperatures. However, cork agglomerate is considered the best insulation for baths. It is anti-allergenic, not subject to rotting, burning and the appearance of fungus.

Insulation according to the type of designer Insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The floor in the steam room is made warm, not slippery and pleasant for walking with bare feet.

washing room

In the washing department, they usually not only rinse the body, here you can relax after a hot steam room, get a relaxing massage, apply face, body or hair care products. The convenience of the premises for carrying out various procedures must be taken care of already at the stage of construction and subsequent finishing.

An example of finishing a shower room with wood and tiles

Washing room in the bath, ceramic tiles

Facing the washing is done either with ceramic tiles or with wood. Moreover, if deciduous varieties of lining were used in the steam room, then coniferous species - larch, spruce or pine - are preferred in the washing room. The resin contained in them has water-repellent properties and protects materials from decay.

Particular attention is paid to the floor, it should not be slippery or cold. It is preferable to pour the base in the washing room with concrete, on which tiles are laid out. Although a wooden version of the floor is also possible.

Leaking wooden floors in the washroom

To prevent sliding on a wet surface, it is recommended to make flooring in the form of removable wooden logs on the tile. They should be dried after the completion of bath procedures.

Wooden flooring on a tiled floor - photo

Vestibule, locker room, lounge

Along with the washing and steam room, high humidity is maintained in the rest of the bath rooms. Here you can use both deciduous and coniferous wood for decoration. The following materials are also used:

The combination of wood and natural stone in the interior of the rest room

A combination of various types of finishes is common in such rooms, for example, wooden lining, tiles and natural stone.

Bathroom ceiling decoration

During operation, the ceiling is exposed to the aggressive effects of hot steam and high humidity. It is important to protect the floors with vapor and thermal insulation to prevent damage to materials. For these purposes, aluminum foil or building membrane is often used. They are equally effective at ensuring their tightness.

Foil ceiling insulation

For vapor barrier, do not use foil with glued cotton wool. It is much thinner and less convenient when carrying out plating work. Also, do not use foil with glued polypropylene foam. It is toxic when heated, so it is unacceptable for use in bath rooms.

It is important to carefully glue all the joints with aluminum tape. If in the process of attaching the material you inadvertently damaged it, immediately seal this place, then you can forget to do this and the vapor barrier will be broken.

Aluminum tape. Gluing joints

In the steam room, it is necessary to lay out a hole for the pipe. It is equipped with a box made of thin sheet stainless steel, which is filled with expanded clay.

The ceiling above the stove is additionally insulated with a steel sheet, which protects the wood from excessive heating.

Steam room ceiling insulation

Step-by-step instructions for installing lining on the ceiling

Step 1. Laths with a cross section of 2 * 4 cm are sewn to the ceiling with a lathing pitch of 40-45 cm. In the places where the frame is attached, it is necessary to provide ventilation gaps of at least 10 mm.

Scheme of the device of a wooden frame for lining

Step 2. Rails are placed on the walls horizontally, the direction is perpendicular to the lining.

Step 3 From one of the walls, wooden panels begin to be fixed. The groove of the first bar is directed outward and the spike of the next one is hammered into it. It is possible and vice versa, there is no fundamental difference.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling

On a note! When installing, use pads and a mallet, this will avoid damage to the material.

Step 4 You can fix the strips with special clamps; they are attached to the rail with nails or screws. But the easiest and most convenient way is to use a construction stapler. It securely fixes the lining and significantly reduces the time for installation.

Clapboard ceiling lining

The scheme of fastening the lining with the help of clamps

Mounting the lining on the kleimers

Step 5 On the sides, gaps are left from the walls in the amount of 2-2.5 cm. This provides additional ventilation and prevents deformation of the finishing material. The gaps are subsequently hidden by the plinth.

The first and final panels are nailed with carnations with a small hat. They are hammered at an angle, the head is completely driven into the wood with the help of a finisher.

Ceiling lined with clapboard

It is important to monitor the verticality of the slats, which is checked after installing each panel using a level. Instead, you can use a simple building meter. In this case, you measure the distance from the wall to the edge of the installed panels on one side and the other.

If there is a discrepancy in measurements, the lining is carefully knocked out to the desired level. For this, a small piece of the same panel is used, which is inserted into the groove and a mallet (or hammer).

The panels are also trimmed in the following way: a wooden lining is fixed, under which a pointed chip is carefully hammered.

Wall decoration in the bath

Wall decoration in the bath

The walls in the steam room are finished with wood. In other rooms, you can use tiles or stone.

Clapboard wall decoration

The basic technique for installing wood panels on walls is no different from attaching them to the ceiling.

Step 1. Along the entire perimeter we horizontally stuff a thick beam - every 80-100 cm.

Sheathing for lining

An example of a crate for lining in a brick bath

Step 2 We lay mineral wool insulation. We cut the insulation to the desired size with a sharp knife. We lay between the bars, without tamping.

The use of mineral wool for wall insulation in the steam room

Step 3 We lay the vapor barrier, carefully glue all the joints with aluminum tape.

Vapor barrier of bath walls with aluminum foil

Note! Carefully monitor the quality insulation in the corners.

Step 4 To ensure the ventilation gap, we fill the distance rail. Sheathing is always done at an angle of 90 degrees to the slats of the lining. Thus, if you plan to arrange the panels vertically, the crate is nailed horizontally.

First, frame vertical slats are installed at the corners of the wall, the accuracy of their fastening is controlled by a plumb line. For even placement of horizontal rails, you can pull the cords at the top and bottom of the frame rails, that is, near the floor and above the ceiling.

The next rail is stuffed after 40-50 cm, and then along the perimeter, with the same pitch, the rest of the strips are attached. Regularly check the evenness of the installation with a level or plumb line.

Step 5 Doors and windows are surrounded by separate bars.

Step 6. Let's start attaching the panels.

Ways of fastening lining

Specifications of wooden lining

When cladding walls in bath rooms, it is recommended to fasten the lining vertically, starting from one of the corners. This will ensure that moisture quickly drains to the floor, without retaining it in the grooves of the panels.

If you decide to do a horizontal finish, then lay the boards with the spike up so that moisture does not accumulate in the grooves. With this option, the fastening of the boards begins from the ceiling, and not from the floor. The crate is nailed vertically.

Wooden panels are fastened with clamps, ordinary nails, or a construction stapler. When using nails or self-tapping screws, they should be inserted at an angle of 45 degrees, with the cap completely sunk into the tree.

Be sure to leave gaps when fastening the lining from the ceiling and floor by 2-3 cm for ventilation.

Often the lining has to be cut. For these purposes, use a saw with fine teeth or an electric jigsaw.

Before attaching the last rail, it is cut to the desired size and attached to the crate. On the first panel of the next wall, the comb is cut off and installed close to the last rail of the first wall. Particular precision requires angular trimming. The main thing here is to determine the required angle and draw a cut line before sawing. Adjacent corners of the panels must fit butt-to-butt, without gaps.

Insulation of the furnace from the wall

Special attention must be paid to the insulation of the furnace from the wall. For these purposes, you can use one of the following options:

• stainless steel - attached directly to the wall behind the stove;
• minerite - heat-resistant boards made in Finland, consisting of cement, mineral fillers and reinforcing fiber. 2 sheets are attached if the stove is located in close proximity to the wall. When the furnace is more than 40 cm away, it is enough to use one sheet of mineralite.;
• heat-resistant tiles made of kaolin clay, for example, from the Russian company Terracotta;
• profile iron - the most budget option for insulation;
• red solid brick - laid out between the wall and the furnace to the base of the pipe. If desired, you can isolate the entire space up to the ceiling.

Fireproof distance from the metal furnace to the walls of the bath

Non-combustible wall cladding

Wall cladding with mineralite and soapstone

Wall tiling

Often the walls in the washing department or in the rest rooms are finished with moisture-resistant ceramic tiles. It is made from environmentally friendly, non-toxic materials that are safe for health when heated, do not absorb moisture and give a beautiful and modern look to the room.

Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on the walls in the bath include a preparatory stage and cladding.

1) Preparation

If the walls are brick or cinder block, then they are cleaned of dirt and dust, rough plaster is performed, and irregularities are leveled with mortar.

Wooden walls are covered with waterproofing material - roofing material or roofing felt. It is nailed with a construction stapler, a fine chain-link mesh is sewn on top. The preparatory work is completed by applying a cement mortar that completely covers the metal mesh.

At the floor level, a perfectly even wooden beam is nailed, from which the fine finish will begin. You can use a metal UD profile, which is leveled along the wall.

An example of a pinned start profile for a tile

To control the vertical rows, use a conventional plumb line or laser level.

2) Laying tiles

To fix the tiles, you can use either a self-prepared solution of cement and sand (in a ratio of 1/5), or ready-made glue. It is more convenient to use industrial glue designed for baths, it withstands large temperature fluctuations and high humidity well.

Heat Resistant Tile Adhesive

Before starting work, the tile is immersed in a container of water and left until all the air comes out of it. This will provide better adhesion to the solution.

Soaking tiles in water

Begin facing from the bottom, from the attached level.

It is important to lay out the first row perfectly evenly, since the quality of all subsequent cladding will depend on it.

Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the back of the tile or directly to the wall. The tile is pressed against the wall, while the glue should slightly protrude beyond its edges. To make the square stand perfectly straight, set it with a rubber mallet.

How to properly apply tile adhesive with a notched trowel

Watch the gap between the rows of tiles, it should be the same along the entire length and height. To do this, when adjacent rows are laid out, plastic crosses are installed in the corners of the tiles in the gap.

Bath tiling

wall tiling technology

Crosses between the seams

After 2 days, the glue will dry completely and you can remove the level.

The scheme of laying tiles on the walls

Scheme of laying tiles

The gaps between the rows are filled with grout, which matches the color of the lining. It dries in 11-12 hours.

The final stage is the cleaning of the walls from the remnants of grout and other contaminants. The tile is thoroughly washed and wiped dry.

How to properly seal seams

The tile creates a great scope for creative self-expression. It can be laid out in even rows, offset or diagonally. For beginners, the easiest and fastest option is recommended, when the squares are located exactly one above the other.

The run-up pattern looks like this:

Laying tiles in a run

Diagonal lining.

Example of diagonal tile laying

To create complex combinations of tiles of various colors, it is recommended that you first lay out a pattern on the floor, then outline a pattern on the wall, and only then proceed with the decoration.

Wall cladding with terracotta tiles

Heat-resistant terracotta tiles are a popular solution in bath rooms. It is moisture resistant and durable, withstands high temperatures and allows you to create an original and beautiful wall decoration.

Terracotta for cladding

The technology of its laying is somewhat different from the lining of ordinary thin ceramic tiles. Terracotta is a heavier material and requires a special adhesive or mastic.

Below is a step-by-step instruction for facing with terracotta flagstone.

1. We apply mastic on the flagstone with a thick thick layer. More adhesive is required than when laying lighter tiles.
2. We press against the wall and align.

Gluing terracotta tiles

Pieces of drywall used to keep equal spacing between tiles

Be careful when handling the pistol. If the mastic still gets on the decorative surface, do not try to wipe it off immediately. Wait 2 hours, then scrape off the dried composition without rubbing it.

Quality stitched and embroidered seams

Video - Heat-resistant tiles in the steam room: the process of laying tiles

Bathroom floor finishing

If the floor is made of wood, then it does not require any additional finishing.

How to make a floor in the bath

Start facing from the corner. Unlike wall decoration, they do not create an ideal horizon on the floor, i.e. the tile is located at a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Before applying the mortar, mark the location of the squares on the floor using a level.

1. Cement mortar is poured onto concrete.
2. Level with a spatula.
3. The surface is covered according to the size of the tile, in this case two rows are laid out simultaneously.
4. The notched side of the spatula on the mortar creates a pattern for better adhesion of the cladding surface.
5. Lay out rows of tiles. Using a rubber mallet and level, set the desired slope and align. Please note that for the first row, the tiles do not need to be immersed in water first. The rest of the base is covered with a soaked lining.

Photo - laying tiles on the floor

Tapping tiles with a mallet

Seam wedges

Tiled floor with a slope to the ladder

It takes a lot of time and effort to finish the bath yourself. It is necessary to solve a number of important tasks - what material to choose, how to attach it correctly, how to ensure safety during operation and create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere in the premises. The recommendations and step-by-step instructions given in the article will help you cope with the task and, after completing all the work, enjoy a good and complete rest during the bath procedures.

Tiles on the floor - photo

Do-it-yourself bath decoration - step-by-step instructions for the best methods!

Find out how DIY sauna decoration is made. Proper execution of work from A to Z, interior design options, step-by-step instructions, photo + video.

Wood is a material that has long been used for facing baths and saunas. It is there that the tree reveals its properties in the best way - the ability to create a microclimate and perfectly retain heat.

In truth, there is simply no alternative to wood for use in humid and hot environments. Accordingly, it is better to sheathe the bath from the inside with a wooden clapboard. Below is the technology for the phased lining of the bath with clapboard inside.

Finishing the lining of a bath or sauna has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account even at the stage of selecting wood.

When choosing lining for facing the bath, you need to consider:

• high temperature;
• temperature fluctuations (differences);
• humidity level;
• budget.

What lining to choose for a bath

Selection criteria are determined by the characteristics and properties of lumber:

1. Board type

For finishing with a pair of wooden clapboard, it is better to give preference to eurolining.

• Firstly, because it has a large groove-tooth system (the length of the ridge reaches 8 mm).

• Secondly, because it is guaranteed to have compensation slots on the back of the lamella, which contributes to the ventilation of the coating and prevents possible cracking of the lamella.

• Thirdly, because the lining is already pre-treated with wood protection products that can be used in the bath.

2. Variety of lining

For a steam room, only the first or highest (elite) grade of wood is suitable in which there are no knots, wormholes, etc. Please note that even live knots can gradually fall out under the influence of temperature changes.

3. Type of wood

To understand which lining for a bath is better, you need to know the characteristics of each breed. We will not review all the breeds available on the market, but will focus on those recommended by professionals.

Finishing clapboard baths can be made of hardwood and coniferous wood. The choice depends on the purpose of the bath room: steam room, dressing room, washing room, shower room, as well as on the properties of the wood itself.

The most popular material for a steam room in a bath or sauna is hardwood lining. Their common advantage is that the wood does not heat up in the sauna, and cannot cause burns when touched, and is also resistant to moisture.

Lining linden for a bath

The most popular for saunas and baths is linden lining. The advantages of this wood are the ability to create a special microclimate. From a utilitarian point of view, an undoubted argument in favor of lime lining will be the strength of the rock, resistance to drying out, as well as the beautiful color and structure of the wood. Linden is considered an energy donor.

Aspen lining for a bath

The second most popular place for baths is occupied by aspen lining. Aspen wood is beautiful, soft and easy to work with. The peculiarity of the breed is that over time, aspen lining becomes only stronger.

Aspen is also good because it provides easy care for lining in the steam room. It is enough to lightly sand it when it starts to darken. And popular belief says that aspen draws negative energy from a person.

Lining from an alder for a bath

In third place was an alder lining. From a medical point of view, alder is good because it contains tannins. The wood of this breed is hygroscopic, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. However, the high cost hinders its ubiquitous distribution.

Note. Lining made of linden, aspen, alder is usually sold in short pieces. Commercial length up to 3 m. This should be taken into account when planning the finishing of the bath and making the calculation of the material.

Oak lining for a bath

The most expensive and difficult to process material is oak lining for a bath. But it does not rot, does not lose its properties and can be installed in a sauna without the slightest additional processing. Unfortunately, all this is not available to everyone due to the high cost of oak lining.

A similar situation is with ash clapboard - a very expensive and rare lumber for bath sheathing.

A common disadvantage of hardwood lining is that it loses color over time and needs to be protected.

Conifers are rarely used in the steam room. Because the resin that the lining of coniferous species (pine, spruce) emits makes it practically unsuitable for use in a steam room. They are more suitable for washing and dressing rooms. This is facilitated by indicators such as resistance to moisture and low price. In addition, coniferous lining is easier to process, has a beautiful structure and a rich palette of shades, allows you to veneer rounded shapes and does not need additional processing (with the exception of deresining). Often a pleasant coniferous aroma also becomes an argument in favor of lining from needles.

Do-it-yourself sheathing of a bath with clapboard inside

Ways of fastening lining

The first step is to choose a method of fastening the lining. There is no unequivocal answer on how to properly fix the lining in the bath, horizontally or vertically (along or across). Each master defends his point of view. But summarizing their statements and user reviews, we can draw conclusions regarding the ways of laying the lining.

Laying lining along has become more widespread due to the relative simplicity, convenience and high speed of work, and due to this, the lower cost of installation. Moisture (condensate) easily flows down the vertically arranged lamellas. But, by the way, it also easily rises up the microcapillaries that make up the wood. With this fastening, the tongue-and-groove system is more protected from water ingress.

The vertical fastening of the lining allows more heat to be accumulated inside the steam room, again, because the horizontal fastening of the crate timber interferes with the free movement of air. Experts note that vertical cladding is justified for saunas with their dry steam regime.

Laying the lining across has advantages in view of the fact that the board is fastened with a spike up, which means that water ingress is also unlikely, as with vertical. With a horizontal fastening of the lining, a vertical frame (crate) is equipped, which contributes to the natural circulation of air between the panels and the wall.

Another argument in favor of the horizontal laying of the lining in the bath (steam room) is the ease of replacing the boards below. The fact is that the floor in the bath is not just a wet place, but a wet place. Naturally, the lower boards are subject to more rapid decay than the upper ones. Replacing several bottom boards is easier than cutting off the bottom of all vertical ones. In addition, shrinkage from constant temperature changes is more noticeable on a vertical mount. The horizontal method of fastening the lining is better for those who have a classic wet Russian bath.

Based on the foregoing, everyone can decide for himself how to fix the lining in the bath - vertically or horizontally.

Finishing the sauna with clapboard provides for the device of the crate. This is due to the fact that the presence of the crate makes it possible to insulate the sauna.

If there is no such need, then air circulates freely between the frame, condensate drains, the likelihood of rotting of the lining, the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls is reduced.

The crate for the lining for the bath is made only from a bar, which is covered with a primer. The use of galvanized profiles for drywall is unacceptable.

The crate in the bath makes it possible to organize the wiring in the steam room. For example, under the lamps.

Note. To protect against moisture, the wires are laid in a metal corrugation.

The internal insulation of the bath consists of several layers. Insulation in such a wet room needs special fastening.

To begin with, waterproofing is laid on the wall. It can be nailed to the wall or fixed with battens.

Cotton wool is placed between the bars of the crate. By the way, cut with an overlap of 10 mm. cotton wool will tightly settle between the frame beam and will be securely fixed in them. A foil vapor barrier film is laid on top of the cotton wool, which reflects heat. The vapor barrier is fixed with a stapler to the beams of the crate.

The film is overlapped and must be glued with aluminum tape. Next, narrow slats are stuffed, the so-called counter-rail. Boards up to 20 mm thick are used for the countertop. The purpose of the countertop is to provide a ventilation gap between the lining and the vapor barrier.

A simpler option is to use foil-coated basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining (also with a gap).

An important condition for full functioning is ventilation in the bath.

Therefore, when installing the crate and laying the insulation, do not forget to mark a place for ventilation holes.

It is preferable to use an aluminum corrugation with a diameter of 100 mm as an air duct. We remind you that for effective ventilation in the bath, you need to place one hole under the ceiling, and the second at a height of 150-300 mm from the floor. Preferably next to the stove.

Note. Ventilation openings should be placed in accessible places in order to be able to regulate the flow of air.

Only non-combustible heat-insulating material is used in the sauna. That is why the use of foam is excluded. It is better to give preference to basalt wool.

Installation of lining in the steam room

Fastening the lining in the bath is done exclusively by a hidden method. Experts attribute this to three factors:

• Firstly, the hardware, twisted through, heats up and there is a risk of getting unpleasant sensations while touching the attachment point.

• Secondly, rough hardware can rust and ruin the lining surface.

• Thirdly, such a mount looks somewhat primitive and affects the appearance of the room.

Hidden fastening methods include the use of nails, clamps or self-tapping screws. Regarding self-tapping screws, it should be noted additionally that the self-tapping screw can be twisted from the front side of the board, however, it must be closed with a wooden plug.

This method is quite laborious, so users are advised to fix the wooden lining with their own hands using nails and kleimers.

How to sheathe the ceiling in the bath clapboard

Finishing the steam room, as well as other rooms of the bath, starts from the ceiling. This is due to the fact that large thermal gaps are left on the ceiling, and the wall lamellas must rest against the ceiling.

Installation of wooden lining on the ceiling begins from the side of the entrance and is carried out only on nails or kleimer. And the point here is not even in the visual effect, but in the fact that the finishing nail is not able to withstand the weight of the ceiling from the lining.

The boards that are nailed last are difficult to “plant” on the kleimer or drive a nail into the groove. In this case, he uses a finishing (hidden) nail that does not have a hat. In order not to damage the front surface of the lining, the nail should be finished with a finisher. And the installation site of the nail is cleaned with sandpaper to avoid the appearance of roughness and, as a result, a splinter.

It is important that the ends of the lining are located at a distance of 40-50 mm from the wall of the bath. This is due to the fact that under the ceiling there is a higher temperature and the lamellas “play” more. And also with the need to leave a ventilation gap for air circulation through the wall.

How to sheathe the walls in the bath clapboard

Wall decoration with clapboard starts from the corner of the room (steam room, sauna) and is implemented similarly to the installation of clapboard on the ceiling.

When installing, it should be noted that water can rise through the wood to a height of up to half a meter with a vertical mount and half as low with a horizontal mount. Therefore, at a height of 10-30 mm. a gap is left from the floor, which will protect the lower boards from rotting.

It is impossible to join the lamellas of the wooden lining to the stop, as is done in the house, in the sauna. The tree swells and shrinks from humidity and temperature, so there must be a compensation gap for the “movement” of the wood. The consequences of improper fastening (deformation, discrepancy) are shown in the photo.

How to make a gap between the lining?

Execution technology: the next board is driven into the previous one until it stops. Then several marks are made along the seam lines (preferably not with a pencil, but with a sharp object). Then the board moves relative to the previous and intended marks. Since the lamella moves by eye, each subsequent board must be checked with a level.

Advice. Mounting the lining on the wall will look more beautiful if you withstand the docking of the boards on the ceiling and wall.

The upper ends of the boards adjoin the ceiling closely.

Fixing skirting boards for wall paneling and decorative elements

Plinth, corners, other accessories for finishing the sauna can not be "planted" on the glue. For their fastening, only finishing nails are used, followed by grinding of the installation site.

How to sheathe a doorway with clapboard

Doorways are given special attention. The slopes in them are finished with the help of lining, cut to the desired length. And the openings themselves are framed with platbands.

How to sheathe clapboard slopes on windows

Directly in paired windows they are rarely equipped, more often they are made in a dressing room or washing room. In any case, it will not be superfluous to know how to make slopes from lining.

In order to simplify the installation of the lining, professionals advise installing a slope in the window opening using the starting bar for the plastic lining. Then the wooden lamella is inserted into the bar with one end, and the second is attached to the crate beam. This framing method is ideal in its simplicity, and is suitable for those who install metal-plastic windows in the bath. But, it should be remembered that the thickness of the starting profile is 10 mm.

The second installation option is to install a frame for the slope, lining it with clapboard and then decorating the place where the clapboard adjoins the window with decorative strips.

This method of finishing the slopes with clapboard is best used by those who have wooden windows installed in the bath.

If the thickness of the wall is small and the slope is not wide, then you can veneer it with a wooden lining for lining.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Finishing washing in the bath clapboard

Installation of lining in a washing room is carried out similarly to installation in a steam room, but it should be remembered that the bottom boards or ends of the boards during vertical laying should be at least 30 mm apart. from the floor.

Users note that plastic panels and PVC lining have proven themselves well in the interior of the washing room. Wood decor allows you to create the desired design and at the same time ensure long-term operation of the finish. Ceramic tiles and tiles also look great in the sink.

How to sheathe the dressing room of the bath with clapboard

The dressing room is designed to leave your things in it and take a break after soaring. In more modern versions of the bath, the dressing room serves as a rest room in which furniture and appliances are installed. Due to the fact that this room is not much different from any other in the house, the installation of the lining does not differ in features.

Due to flammability, lining near the furnace firebox is not mounted. It is better to finish the furnace place with brick, stone, in extreme cases, sheet metal or other non-combustible materials.

It is worth noting that on the ceiling it is also not allowed to connect the chimney pipe to the lining. Therefore, a stainless steel screen is installed on the ceiling. Behind the screen, the pipe should be wrapped with basalt wool.

Installation of lining near the sauna heater

But the heater (the place where stones traditional for the Russian bath are stacked) is not only possible, but necessary to finish the lining. Moreover, preference should be given to hardwood lining. Due to the fact that wood heats up less than stone, the wood finish of the heater will protect sauna users from thermal burns.

Now you are familiar with how the lining is installed in separate rooms of the bath, you know how to fix the lining in the bath correctly. So, there are no obstacles to finishing the bath with a wooden clapboard with your own hands.

It is no secret that the interior decoration of the bath, if specialists are involved for this purpose, can cost a tidy sum. At first glance, complex and painstaking work is available to everyone, the main thing is to understand all the subtleties and choose the right materials. The material below will introduce you to the popular options for interior decoration of baths.

The most common options for finishing baths are natural wood. Recently, wood has been combined with wild stone, refractory bricks and tiles that can withstand high temperatures. Choosing the right option, you need to pay attention to the characteristics of a particular material, personal preferences and financial capabilities. Recommended materials for a bath, taking into account temperature differences and humidity:

Finnish pine in the decoration of baths (saunas) occupies a leading position. Walls trimmed with clapboard look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing. The tree of this breed is able to serve for many years without compromising quality and appearance. A feature of the Finnish pine is that this breed retains its natural aroma. The bath is fresh and pleasant, no resin flows on the walls. It is mounted in the usual way, its naturalness gives unity with nature. Using this type of finish, you can get the original design of the bathhouse.

Durable oak finish can last for decades, while remaining a noble material. Walls made of oak lining look very harmonious with furniture made of the same wood. In addition to aesthetics, oak has a number of useful properties that nature has endowed the tree with. Inhaling the aroma of wood, you can get rid of many diseases. Oak sauna has a beneficial effect on health, especially in the presence of colds. The wood species absorbs moisture in such a way that it allows you to adjust the temperature that is optimal for the steam room. Such a bath looks noble and solid.

The rustic flavor of the bath is given by the use of a block house for finishing linden logs. The surface of the logs is slightly rough, they are chosen when arranging the traditional Russian style in the bath. This option can be considered a costly affair, but if you do the finishing yourself, you can save a lot. In addition to walls, logs decorate door and window openings, make antique wooden furniture from them.

The rich color of mahogany gives the bath nobility and presentability. A rare type of wood, in addition to deep color, has undeniable advantages over other species. It is expensive to save wood, it can be combined with other species, tiles, stone. A mahogany bath will look chic if there is such an opportunity and the desire to make such an interior can be done on your own. Otherwise, it is better to contact specialists.

Mahogany does not require additional external protection against destruction, which is why it is so valued.

In modern baths, the combination of different finishing materials has become popular. Increasingly, bath masters began to use Himalayan salt for wall decoration, a useful material. Thanks to natural material, you can create an original design and improve your health. A visit to such a bath is equated to medical procedures. Salt stone is very harmoniously combined with natural wood. The atmosphere of such a bath contributes to complete relaxation, ideal for relaxation.

More affordable finishes include larch lining. The choice of this material in the modern market is huge. Unpretentious larch finish in care - strong and durable. The interior of the bath with larch acquires a cozy soothing shade. Larch can decorate walls, make doors, benches and other bath utensils.

Tip: instead of staining, it is better to cover the lining of larch with a proven method - beeswax. This type of wood processing gives the surface a natural shine and protects against rot.

Finishing the bath inside with your own hands step by step

As mentioned above, the best material for lining baths and saunas is natural wood. Lining or timber of a certain type of wood will create a special microclimate and will retain heat perfectly. No other alternative has yet been devised. Below we will talk about the technology of phased clapboard lining inside the bath:

• Preparatory work;
• Measurement of the bath area;
• Necessary materials;
• Wall and ceiling decoration;
• Work on laying the floor;
• The final stage;

The preparatory work includes an action plan that must be carried out step by step.

To understand how to sheathe a clapboard bath, a detailed video will help. See how to do it right to avoid mistakes. Professional advice will help you finish the walls and ceiling in the bath with your own hands.

Bath materials and their features

Materials for interior decoration of such premises must be absolutely safe. Do not use linoleum, chipboard, plywood and PVC panels. In addition to being flammable, forbidden materials release harmful toxins when heated. By giving preference to wood and stone, you choose practicality with durability. Reducing the cost of the material over time will require replacement. Lining should be free of knots, smooth, without roughness and notches.

1. A rich assortment of wood allows you to choose a breed without resinous compounds and resistant to temperature extremes.
2. It is necessary to process wood with non-toxic means, otherwise, instead of the natural smell of wood in the bath, the smell of chemicals will soar.
3. If desired, the tree can be impregnated with hemp or linseed oil, beeswax.
4. The firebox area is trimmed with non-combustible materials, a stainless steel sheet should be laid on the floor next to it.
5. When choosing insulation and waterproofing, it is better to give preference to materials from trusted manufacturers.
6. Lighting lanterns must be closed so that moisture does not get there. Wiring should be done by a specialist or a person who understands this topic.

When interior decoration of the bath, it should be borne in mind that the structure must withstand conditions of high humidity. An important task is to create conditions that meet the performance requirements for baths. Professional advice and step-by-step recommendations will help you finish the bath in accordance with the requirements.

From time immemorial, not only the Slavs, but also the Finnish, Ugric and even nomadic tribes have made a considerable contribution to the creation, which eventually began to be called "Russian bath". In those days, the technology was very simple: a massive frame was used, which did not have any heaters inside. In our technological world, this option is not very practical, since it will take a significant amount of firewood and a lot of time to heat the bath. Once upon a time, wood was the cheapest material - now it is no longer so. A modern bath is easier to sheathe. There is enough information and photos for this. How to make it inexpensive and beautiful? This will be discussed further.

What lining for the bath to use and is it needed at all? An important question for owners of steam rooms. Let's first understand what functions it performs. The main task of the sheathing is to reduce the consumption of heat energy and reduce the burning time from 4 to 1-1.5 hours. Although, perhaps, this does not apply to baths, competently built according to old technologies - from a single bar. In this case, no heaters are required. However, the construction costs will be completely different.

Steam room from solid timber

So, when choosing a material, first of all, you need to think about the properties that it should have. Of course, it must be non-flammable, vapor-resistant and, of course, harmless to your health. It is not recommended to use non-natural materials for cladding the internal walls of the bath.

The favorite material for interior decoration is lining, a little less often they prefer a block house that is spectacular in its appearance, or only magnelite that is developing on the market. What do you prefer anyway? Let's consider all the options in more detail.

Clapboard lining

Lining among builders is associated with beauty, practicality and reasonable cost. High quality wall paneling partially regulates the air humidity in the steam room, prevents the appearance of fungal mold and condensate, and allows the walls to "breathe".

Advice. There is a little secret when choosing a lining, which can significantly reduce the cost of its purchase. Very often, on the building materials market, lining up to 1.5 m long is much cheaper than from 2 m and above. And sheathing a bath with a material of this length is quite simple - you just need to make a rail in the middle.

Most often, lining is preferable for finishing the interior of the bath, as it has a number of undoubted advantages:

1. Saves heat. Lining significantly reduces heat leakage, respectively, and the amount of firewood used (electricity, gas).
2. It gives the room an aesthetic appearance, hiding communications and uneven finishes.
3. Prevents the formation of dampness.
4. Long serves.

Steam room lined with clapboard

You should also seriously approach the choice of wood for lining, because the level of reliability of the material and the degree of financial costs depend on it.

• Linden- ideal for a steam room. The essential oils it secretes have a disinfecting, anti-inflammatory effect. It enhances perspiration without burning the skin and respiratory tract due to low thermal conductivity.
• A less financially costly alternative to linden will be aspen. It draws out diseases from the body, is not subject to decay after prolonged contact with water. This tree is very soft, it is cut without problems.
• The best option for shower walls will be larch. It has a positive effect on well-being, increases resistance to infections. And floors from this tree will be exclusively strong and reliable. Even various small rodents and a bug will not be afraid of them.
• The leader in strength among tree species is undoubtedly white stock. It is even stronger than oak and will only get stronger with time. Acacia is not subject to deformation and decay. Products made from this wood will be very durable and wear-resistant, so acacia is perfect for finishing doors and floors in a steam room.

Choosing a block house

Block house for a bath - the best combination of price and quality. This material is so close in its external characteristics to a log house that it is almost impossible to distinguish a bath sheathed with a block house from a log one. This material undergoes special drying, so it is not afraid of deformation or cracks. But periodic (once every few years) bactericidal treatment is still desirable.

block house

There is a classification of a block house according to the degree of quality:

• Class "C" - low quality material, processed only superficially. Various kinds of deformations are allowed (cracks, bark remnants, etc.);
• Class "B" - medium quality block house, allowing only a limited amount of deformation (small cracks, knots up to 3 cm, etc.);
• Class "A" - perfectly processed material, without any irregularities (with the exception of small knots - up to 3 cm);
• "Extra" class - the highest level of material quality with perfect surface finish.

For the interior decoration of the bath, a block house of the last two classes is recommended. As a material for the block house, hardwood and softwood are used, with the exception of spruce and pine (since they have high thermal conductivity and can cause burns when touched).

Advice. In no case should you use chipboard and fiberboard in a steam room, since they release toxins when heated.

MAGELAN

A self-confident newcomer to the building materials market is a glass-magnesium sheet. It is made from fine wood shavings, magnesium and other components reinforced with fiberglass mesh. This is an acceptable, but not the best material for interior decoration. However, certain advantages of this material cannot be denied:

1. Immune to temperature changes and burning.
2. Does not rot and is immune to moisture
3. Easy to mount.

Magellan glass sheet

In this material, we have introduced you to the possible options for finishing the interior of the bath, ranging from natural wood to modern materials. Now, knowing about the advantages of certain materials, it will be easier for you to make a choice depending on your wishes and financial capabilities.