How thick should the attic be insulated? What thickness of mansard roof insulation is needed, depending on the material

Two options for arranging the attic.

Today, the attic has lost its former purpose of an attic space and has turned into an additional, multifunctional room. If desired, it can be equipped with a billiard room, a children's room, an extra bedroom or a spacious bar. But for this it is necessary to create a suitable microclimate: to waterproof and insulate the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands.

Roof insulation with mineral wool

This area is insulated first, not only for purely logical reasons, but also in order to slightly delay the insulation of the floor and walls. This is done in order to allow the wood to dry as long as possible. Otherwise, the moisture it releases can settle on the insulation and slightly weaken its inert properties.

The thickness of the mineral wool for attic insulation is 20-25 cm.

You need to start the process of warming from the outside (the case when the house is just being built). On a crate prepared in advance (boards perpendicular to the rafters, nailed on the inside), a vapor barrier is lined and blocks are laid out. The thickness of the mineral wool for attic insulation should be 20-25 cm. If the rafter beam is not thick enough, you can do the following:

either nail blocks of 50 mm parallel to the support (on the rafters themselves) and lay out stone wool in two layers one on top of the other;
or make a counter-lattice of 60-120 mm bars / boards (thus, we leave a gap between the mineral wool and the outer insulation), after which we line the second layer of insulation perpendicular to the inner one;

The necessity and peculiarity of the use of this material lies in the fact that it passes wet vapors only in one direction (outward) and keeps moisture from the leaking roof from getting inside. It is necessary to fix the insulation with screws or a construction stapler, leaving very little sagging (so that the layer does not deform and lose its qualities as a result of tension during temperature changes).

When joining the pieces of waterproofing, keep a sufficient overlap (about 15 cm), which will protect against leaks and the formation of gaps that release heat to the outside.

We block the bridges of cold.

Between themselves, intersecting layers are fastened with a special double-sided adhesive tape or reliable construction tape. On the extreme rafters, you can make a slight bend and once again fix the edges of the film with staples. Then, a counter-lattice is applied to the waterproofing layer, creating a gap between the roof and the insulation pie.

The approximate thickness of this layer should be 5 centimeters. Its function is ventilation and removal of moisture accumulating under the tiles. It is important that a small cavity is left at the highest point of the roof (ridge), not filled with insulation or timber. Through it, moist air will leave the building, passing from under the edge of the roof up and out again.

If the house has already been built, during the insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool, the insulation is fixed with a construction stapler (on the side surfaces of the rafters). A five-centimeter gap for ventilation is also maintained between the film and the roof lining. After, with a margin of width of 10-15 mm (in relation to the distance between the rafters), thermal insulation is cut and lined.

Insulation of the attic with mineral wool from the inside ends with fixing a vapor barrier layer on the inside of the rafters (or counter-lattice), which will not allow mineral wool to be saturated with moisture. Another row of bars is fixed on top, on which the chipboard panels or the interior decoration of the room will be held.

Insulation of the floor and walls of the attic

Mineral wool must be protected from moisture.

This process is very similar to roof insulation:

on the boards between the rafters we lay a vapor barrier or a layer of paper impregnated with bitumen, which will keep mineral wool particles from slipping through the support and getting into the air of the lower floors;
after we line the heat insulator itself in two layers with a total thickness of 15-20 cm;
if necessary, we nail additional blocks on top to increase the height of the rafters. We place a waterproofing layer on them and cover everything with boards (rough floor).

Also, if possible, it is recommended to lay the vapor barrier overlapping the walls down (that is, the ends are lowered along the walls of the lower floor and plastered). This will avoid the penetration of at least some steam into the mineral wool and its damage. Walls, if necessary, are insulated in a similar way. Only in this case, depending on their density and thickness, the thermal insulation layer is reduced and the outer waterproofing film is removed.

What mineral wool is worth buying?

When there are so many similar products on the market, it becomes difficult to determine where the best mineral wool for the attic is produced and which one is worth choosing, and which one is clearly overpriced. It seems that there is some kind of "leader". But, the truth is that most large manufacturers are approximately on the same level in terms of quality and produce cotton wool with the same thermal conductivity. You will get about the same for the same price in completely different packages. Therefore, it is only important to remember that glass wool in blocks is considered better than rolled, and vacuum packaging can hold 2 times the size of the final product.

It is also worth saying that the seller of a non-core store can voice a more unbiased opinion about which mineral wool is better for the attic and which for the walls of the lower floors than a consultant from one of the manufacturing companies. Therefore, before making a final decision, compare the parameters of at least three options from different companies and choose the best one.

That's all! We considered the question of how to make the former attic space warm, discussed the general insulation technique. We took into account all the subtleties and are now almost ready to get to work. It remains only to view the practical guide on warming the attic from the inside with mineral wool in the video and get answers to all the remaining questions in it.

The attic can serve not only as a place to store all the necessary and unnecessary things - you can equip a bedroom, living room, nursery, study or even a bathroom there. To make the room under the roof itself comfortable, it is not enough to make repairs there and install powerful ones - you need to take care of high-quality insulation. - one of the coldest places in the house, because from above and at least from two sides it borders on the street, and the roof slopes here play the role of not only the ceiling, but also the walls. If you do not insulate the attic, then no heater will help create normal living conditions there, and all the heat will easily go outside. So what insulation for the attic is better to choose than to insulate the walls and roof, and how thick should the insulation be?

No. 1. What should be the insulation for the attic?

Far from every heat-insulating material is suitable for attic insulation, since this is a rather specific room. High-quality insulation should have the following characteristics:

low thermal conductivity is the most obvious requirement. The material must reliably protect the room from the cold, keeping maximum warmth inside. In addition, it must withstand temperature extremes, be durable, not crack or lose its integrity over time;
soundproofing properties should be the higher, the more "loud" roofing material is selected. and, for example, during rain and hail they make an unpleasant ringing sound, and high-quality can significantly reduce discomfort;
moisture resistance. It is advisable to choose a material that would be inert to moisture and not accumulate it, because when water is absorbed, the weight of the insulation increases (hence, the load on all structures increases) and its thermal insulation qualities decrease. If the material is suitable for all other parameters, but is prone to moisture accumulation, then it is better to use hydro and vapor barrier with it - this will complicate installation, but make the insulation more durable;
fire resistance, especially if the roof frame is made of wood. For maximum resistance to flame, even some flame retardant materials are treated with flame retardants - substances that prevent the spread of fire;
resistance to fungus and rodents;
environmental friendliness;
profitability;
ease of installation will be a plus, but some very effective spray-type heat insulators cannot be applied by hand.

To insulate the attic today use mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, ecowool, polyurethane foam and some other heat insulators. It is not recommended to use a backfill heat insulator (for example,), since it will take quite a lot to achieve the necessary thermal insulation qualities. In the mountainous Caucasian regions, even wool- in terms of thermal insulation properties, it is close to mineral wool, but is subject to the negative effects of insects and rodents.

No. 2. Mineral wool for attic insulation

glass wool

Glass wool is cheaper than stone wool, but is used infrequently due to inconvenience in work. Since the material is made from glass waste, it contains small pointed particles that can easily injure the skin and respiratory tract. However, if you work with glass wool in compliance with all the rules of personal protection, then you can inexpensively and efficiently insulate the attic. To the main benefits material include:

No. 3. Styrofoam for attic insulation

No. 4. Extruded polystyrene foam for attic insulation

In terms of popularity, extruded polystyrene foam is catching up with mineral wool. In terms of chemical composition, this is still the same ordinary polystyrene foam, only a fundamentally different production technology makes it possible to obtain material with more favorable performance. The whole point is that regular foam obtained by enlarging microgranules under the influence of steam, and extruded, as the name suggests, by extrusion at elevated temperature and pressure, as well as by adding a blowing agent.

Main Benefits:

high-quality thermal insulation. Thermal conductivity coefficient at the level of 0.029-0.034 W / m K;
moisture resistance, which is largely ensured due to the structure of the material with closed pores;
ease of installation, which is ensured by low weight and ease of processing;
sufficient strength;
low price;
mold and rodent resistance.

Among cons not the highest vapor permeability, so you have to approach the attic more responsibly, as well as low resistance to combustion. To insulate the attic, it is better to take expanded polystyrene of the G3 flammability class - according to the standards, it can be used even in rooms with increased fire safety requirements. Since the material belongs to tile insulation, a cold bridge can form at the junction of individual plates, so it is better to take expanded polystyrene with a special lock.

No. 5. Polyurethane foam for attic insulation

Main Benefits:

thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.02 W / m K, and this is one of the best results;
the ability to create a completely seamless surface, so the problem of cold bridges will be completely solved;
absolute moisture resistance, which is important for the material that will be used under the roof itself;
high adhesion to most materials;
the ability to insulate the attic of the most complex shape - in some cases, the use of slab insulation is generally impractical, and foam makes it easy to fill all the cracks and hard-to-reach places;
high vapor permeability;
resistance to mold and rodents;
high speed of work.

Among cons the price and the need to resort to the help of professionals, but all the work will be carried out very quickly. In addition, the ignition temperature of the material is not very high - about 200-215 0 C, and when burned, the material emits toxic gases.

No. 6. Foam glass for attic insulation

When calculating, it is worth considering the heat transfer resistance of all elements of the fence, including the walls of the gables and the roofing cake. It is convenient to use special calculators for this or even turn to professionals. With a certain degree of error, it is possible to make a calculation, taking into account the necessary heat transfer resistance of only the attic coating, because it occupies the largest area among all the external fences of this room. According to the rules, the heat transfer resistance of existing materials is subtracted from the tabular or self-calculated value, but for a roofing pie this value is very small, so we neglect it.

It turns out that for insulation with mineral wool (0.035-0.045 W / m * K) of the attic in Moscow (heat transfer resistance 4.7 m 2 K / m), a layer of thermal insulation of 16.5-21 cm is required, depending on the characteristics of the wool, the thermal conductivity is always indicated on the package. In this case, experts recommend making thermal insulation with plates 20 cm thick, and mounting rolled mineral wool another 5 cm thick on top.

Naturally, the attic room is already insulated from the inside, and the practice of combining two types of heaters is common. Properly executed thermal insulation allows you to use the attic all year round and turn it into a full-fledged living space.

Statistics show that more than 50% of residential under-roofing premises in the Russian Federation are insulated with mineral wool. Does the popularity of the material speak of its undeniable advantages? This review considers the insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool with your own hands and analyzes the method from a functional and technological point of view.

Slabs, mats and roll materials made of basalt fibers, used to insulate the attic from the inside, attract developers and builders with three important properties:

Mineral wool is an effective and popular insulation in Russia

Fire safety. All grades of mineral wool are classified as NG.
Vapor permeability.

Due to the ability to absorb condensate and evaporate it when the temperature rises, mineral wool works great in contact with wooden rafters. It protects them from waterlogging, which is the cause of the development of fungus and rotting of wood.
Good noise-absorbing characteristics. Randomly oriented fibers most effectively reduce the level of high-frequency noise, which is especially annoying and annoying when it rains.

The described characteristics, to a much greater extent than the cost, influence the choice of this type of insulation for attic insulation. However, different brands of basalt thermal insulation differ significantly from each other in a number of other parameters. Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside of the room requires a certain amount of experience with mineral wool and imposes additional restrictions on the properties of the material: this becomes clear from the video posted in the "Self-Assembly Algorithm" section.

These additional features include:

material format. For laying between rafters, the width of the thermal insulation should be 600 - 610 mm.
Density. When working alone, the less the plate or its segment weighs, the better.
Elasticity and sufficiently high rigidity. This quality greatly simplifies the insulation of the attic with mineral wool.
The presence of large thicknesses - 100, 150, 200 mm.

It is a common misconception that a high density of basalt insulation indicates its increased energy efficiency, and a low density indicates low rigidity and inability to keep its shape. However, there is no direct dependence of thermal conductivity and stiffness on density. The length, thickness of the fibers, as well as the type of their orientation are of decisive importance.

Mineral wool in the form of plates is convenient for insulating the attic alone

We compared the real parameters of mineral wool brands recommended by leading manufacturers for roof insulation. Only three names satisfy all four declared requirements: Rockmin and Rockmin plus (Rockwool brand), as well as Rocklight TechnoNIKOL boards. Plates of these brands (format 1000 × 600 mm and 1200 × 600 mm) with a thickness of 100 mm weigh 1.6 kg, respectively; 2.1 kg and 2.9 kg. At the same time, they are elastic and hold their shape well.

There are many types of mineral wool insulation that are superior to those recommended by us in terms of thermal resistance or stiffness. But they are all ill-formed, either very heavy or not resilient enough, and therefore inconvenient to work alone.

The composition of the roofing cake

Insulation of a residential attic with mineral wool requires mandatory compensation for the weaknesses of this material: the ability to absorb moisture from the room, as well as high airflow and low resistance to precipitation. Therefore, two, and sometimes three membranes are introduced into the composition of the roofing cake, provided that fibrous insulation is used. In the direction from the room to the outside, the layers are arranged in the following order:

Scheme of attic insulation with mineral wool

Ceiling finish. The warmest material for this layer is drywall and a layer of putty (taken into account separately in the thermal calculation).
Air gap formed by the crate for fixing the finishing cladding. Equal to the thickness of the laths (or galvanized profiles) of the crate. This gap is not necessary for the operation of the heat-insulating system.
Vapor barrier film. Protects the insulation from the ingress of steam rising from the room.
The main insulation (2 - 3 layers of mineral wool).
High diffusion membrane (waterproofing). Its peculiarity lies in the one-way passage of water. Moisture coming from below (evaporated by mineral wool) should freely penetrate through the membrane, and water entering from above (precipitation and condensate) should drain under the roofing down to the street. Films of this type combine the functions of a hydro-barrier and wind protection. In domestic practice, isospan three-layer membranes have proven themselves well. It is better to use Izospan AQ proff for the attic, which is characterized by high strength and a good steam transmission rate (1000 g / m2 per day). The gap between isospan and mineral wool is not needed.
Ventilation gap between the membrane and the roof deck. It is formed by battens of lathing, located perpendicular to the rafters in the plan. The thickness of the crate is usually 4 - 6 cm.
Roof decking.

Sufficient insulation thickness

To determine the required thickness of mineral wool, one of the independent online thermal calculators (not owned by any manufacturer of insulating materials) should be selected. In the filters, you must specify the region and all the components of the roofing pie, indicating the materials and thicknesses. Each air gap is also a significant insulating layer.

The thickness of the attic insulation must be accurately calculated

After that, the calculation will show the final temperature inside the room. Using the method of successive approximations, you can find the value of all thermal insulation parameters that provide the necessary level of comfort in the attic.

In most regions of the European part of the Russian Federation, the required thickness of mineral wool for internal attic insulation is 280 - 300 mm.

Often, developers are content with values of 200 - 250 mm, for the reason that "this corresponds to the geometry of the rafters" and "this is proven by practice." They simply ignore the fact of compensation for heat in the attic due to heating systems located on the ground floor. The money saved on attic insulation translates into significant annual energy overruns.

Table: comparative characteristics of various heaters and the required thickness depending on thermal conductivity

Mineral wool self-assembly technology

First you need to make sure that the outer elements of the roofing cake (or at least the waterproofing layer) have already been installed. This is necessary to protect the mineral wool from atmospheric moisture before installing the outer membrane.

Mineral wool is tightly laid between floor beams or racks

Next, the width of the openings between the rafters is checked. If the size fluctuates between 550 mm and 600 mm, then you will not have to cut the insulation (you can use the factory width of the plates 600 - 610 mm). If the distance between the rafters is more than 600 mm, it will be necessary to cut out fragments of the required width from the mineral wool boards based on the assembly compression of 20 - 30 mm. For example, if the rafter niche has a width of 720 mm, then sections of 700 × 600 mm are cut out of 1200 × 600 mm slabs. The remains of 500 × 600 are accumulated for use in the insulation of various contours (for attic walls, around window openings, for laying crossbars on top, etc.)

The second method consists in diagonal cutting of rectangular plates and the relative displacement of the halves along this diagonal. When offset, the overall width increases, ensuring that the ends of the wool rest against the vertical edges of the rafters. However, in this case, for a tight joint, the following plates will have to be cut curved from the outside.

Installation of mineral wool and further operations are carried out alone using the following methods:

Fixing mineral wool with nylon thread

If there are no significant differences in width in the openings between the rafters, mineral wool boards can be installed without preparatory work. Pressing the material by 20 - 30 mm allows you to lay out all the elements of insulation from the inside of the room into the roof slope. Otherwise, to support the wool, a temporary (removable) crate is used from planks, boards, or a nylon thread (non-removable), stretched along the lower edges of the rafters in a zigzag using a stapler. Layers of mineral wool are laid out in a checkerboard pattern to overlap the joints.
From below, a vapor barrier film is attached to the ends of the rafters with a stapler. It must be joined with an overlap, gluing the joints with special adhesive tape.
A crate is mounted to install the finishing ceiling cladding.

Video: how to insulate the roof of the attic floor with mineral wool (Isover Profi 100 mm and Ursa Pure One 50mm)

The total thickness of the insulation was 250 mm. The fixation of the insulation is carried out using a bar 50 × 40mm. To eliminate the sagging of mineral wool, the author of the video additionally uses twine, which is fastened with a stapler to the bar.

Mauerlat and wall insulation

The insulation of the attic walls should form a closed circuit with the insulation of the roof slopes. Thermal calculation for walls is carried out separately. In most cases, it shows the required insulation thickness 1.5 times less than for the roof.

Mauerlat is a log or beam that serves to transfer and average pressure from the rafters to the upper end of the wall. Mauerlat insulation is recommended to be carried out before the installation of the hydrobarrier. Mauerlat is isolated from above and from the side of the street. Then the membrane is installed.

Video to help: why moisture forms on the roof of the attic, insulated with mineral wool

Conclusion

In addition to the high functional properties of mineral wool used in residential under-roofing, consumers are attracted by the possibility of significant savings. The main source of this is not the price of the material, but the independent performance of work. However, for solo installation, a number of additional requirements are imposed on the fibrous insulation material. Only taking them into account when choosing a brand of cotton guarantees you a calm, measured work.

Making heating in the attic without insulating its roof is the same as heating the air outside. An attic is a room equipped for housing, which is located on the top floor of a house under a roof.

It is because of the location of this room that it is more susceptible to the influence of temperatures than others and comes into contact with much more than the lower floors.

Roof insulation is the most important task when organizing an attic. Insulation of the attic roof from the inside will protect it from moisture, freezing and heat loss.

In addition, roof insulation significantly reduces the cost of heating a house.

If this room is not insulated or insulated poorly, then cold air is guaranteed to enter the house.

What insulation to choose for a mansard roof, basic recommendations

The air inside the room always rises. And the inner coating of the roof can form condensation, and as a result, fungus and mold. An unprotected roof begins to rot, wet spots appear, not to mention high heat loss.

In winter, the main problem of an uninsulated roof is the appearance of icicles. It is to prevent these phenomena that thermal insulation is needed.

Attics can be using various thermal insulation materials. The most popular heaters can be considered mineral wool, ecowool or fiberglass. You can also use other heaters, such as, for example, expanded polystyrene.

Experts advise lightweight materials to be used as roofing in order to reduce the load. The best insulation for a mansard roof is fiberglass.
The thickness of the attic roof insulation should not be less than 15-20 cm.
There must be ventilation of the roof space. It should protect the roof from wetting and moisture penetration.

Of course, it is up to the owner of the house to decide which is the best insulation for a mansard roof.

Ways to insulate the attic

There are two ways to insulate the attic roof:

Insulation from the inside - work on the insulation of the roof takes place inside the building.
Insulation from the outside - the insulation is laid from the side of the street.

The method of insulation from the inside is used during the initial construction or when rebuilding or overlapping the roof. This method is not very convenient, because it is very difficult to fix the thermal insulation from the bottom of the roof with high quality.

The second method allows you to lay the insulation better, but at the same time it is not protected from precipitation and the influence of weather conditions.

Such insulation is carried out only in the warm season and most builders prefer it.

Insulation for the attic - which one to choose and what to look for. The most popular roofing thermal insulation materials:

glass wool;
polyurethane foam;
expanded polystyrene.

All these heaters have their own unique qualities and are used specifically for roof insulation. When using them to insulate a residential attic, you must definitely ask about their environmental qualities.

Having studied all the features, pros and cons, you can choose a heater for the attic. Which material to choose depends on the financial and other capabilities of the owner of the house.

It would be better to provide waterproofing between the roof and the insulation. The best solution would be if a ventilation gap is equipped on both sides of the waterproofing.

Also, do not save on the quality of materials, so that after a while you do not have to re-roof the roof.

If mineral wool is used as the quality, then it is necessary to mount the crate, since this material itself is heavy.

At the initial stages of the insulation process, it is necessary to prepare the material and carry out the interior upholstery. Then, a vapor barrier is made and after that the insulation is laid. Do not forget about waterproofing.

Attention should be paid both to the technological characteristics of materials, and to their durability and environmental friendliness. The warmth and comfort in the house depends on the correctly selected thermal insulation materials, therefore, before proceeding with the installation work, it is better to prepare and study this issue.

Of course, you should not save on materials, as the miser pays twice.

If the master plans to make the attic room residential, then it is necessary to choose the right insulation for the attic. In this case, it is very important to take into account the basic requirements for the coating and the conditions of its operation. After all, the living space is somewhat different from the cold attic. About which insulation is best for a mansard roof, we analyze in detail in the material below.

If you do not know which insulation to choose for the attic roof (what requirements to apply to it), then pay attention to the following information. In order for the insulation of the attic room to serve not only for a long time, but also not to harm the residents of the house who will live in the attic rooms, the material must meet the following requirements:

Environmental friendliness. Especially when you consider that the attic rooms will be heated. And an increase in temperature provokes evaporation from the insulating coating. In turn, evaporation is what a potential tenant of the upper rooms of the house will breathe.
Lightweight insulation. The mass of material will form the total load of the construction cake on the roof truss system. And accordingly, the smaller it is, the stronger and more durable the roof will be.
Insulation density. The level of possible deformation under the influence of sedimentary load directly depends on its density. So, snow lying on the roof can eventually deform the insulation material with its weight. And even with the descent of the crust from the roof, a soft insulation with a low density will no longer restore its structure. In addition, the deformation of the coating will lead to a decrease in thermal insulation properties. However, in turn, a material with a lower density will retain heat better. Here you should choose depending on the climatic conditions of the region. If snow prevails, then a denser coverage can be preferred. And if winds are a priority, then less dense heat-insulating materials will be relevant.
Low flammability. In particular, for attic rooms it is better to use heaters marked G-1 and G-2. They have the lowest level of flammability.
Good moisture repellency. It is important to understand here that the attic insulation will be exposed to evaporation from inside the room. And if the vapor barrier is not properly laid or deformed, the material can accumulate moisture. And this over time can lead to its deformation, which will reduce the level of thermal insulation.
Good soundproofing properties. This is because the sound of rain on a mansard roof can disturb the occupants underneath. Especially if the roof is covered with corrugated board or metal tiles. Although it is better not to do this for residential upper premises.
Inertness to biological microorganisms. That is, the insulation for the mansard roof should not rot and mold. Otherwise, these same fumes will poison the residents of the upper rooms.
Low thermal conductivity. This is the most important criterion that will limit heat loss from the room through the roof space.

Important: if the insulating coating is laid on the rafter legs, then the ideal option would be a light and dense material. If the design of the upper part of the house involves the use of frame panels, then it is better to use heavier plate heaters.

Overview of insulation for the attic

Below is a rating of insulating materials-heat insulators for the roof of the attic. We will start with the most optimal ones, and end up with more budgetary and controversial ones. So, thermal insulation in the attic can be carried out using the following materials.

stone wool

It is also called ecowool. Such a coating is the best insulation to date. It is the most demanded when warming the attic floor. The material has proven itself well due to the following technical characteristics:

Excellent (low) thermal conductivity. For stone wool, it is 0.039-0.045 W / m K. Thus, heat loss from the attic space will be minimal.
Fire resistance. Stone wool does not burn or melt, which is why it is most often used for roof insulation.
Does not accumulate moisture. This indicator is due to a special water-repellent impregnation, which is applied to basalt fibers in the production of ecowool.
Good sound absorption. Under the insulated stone wool roof, you will sleep soundly and comfortably.
High strength plates. Even a long static load does not deform stone wool.
The ability to pass vapor through itself without moistening the structure of the material. That is, stone wool simply breathes, providing air circulation in space.

Important: if you decide to use a stone wool insulation layer, then you definitely need to make high-quality vapor and waterproofing of the roof.

Extruded polystyrene foam

If you do not know which is the best insulation for the attic roof, then you can use this type of foam. It is worth remembering here that extruded polystyrene foam can have a different density. And the higher it is, the heavier the coating plates will be. It is worth knowing that for high-quality roof insulation, the thickness of the attic insulation should be from 10 cm. From such mixtures, the insulation will undergo deformation, which means that its thermal insulation properties will eventually come to naught.

Distinctive advantages of extruded polystyrene foam are:

Excellent moisture resistance;
Inertness to microorganisms and chemicals;
High sound insulation;
Excellent thermal insulation properties;
Fire resistance.

Important: when insulating the attic with slab materials, all joints must be carefully sealed with mounting foam.

Penofol

Pretty modern insulating material, made in the form of rolls. Gradually, this insulation replaces the usual rolled mineral wool. The features of this coverage are:

Good sound and heat insulation;
Inertness to moisture;
Protection of the insulated room from radioactive waves from the outside.

However, it is worth knowing that such a material undergoes significant deformation under prolonged static loads. That is why penofol is ideal when used in windy but snowless regions.

Liquid polyurethane

This type of insulation is suitable for both walls and floor panels of the house. Its main feature is that liquid polyurethane is sprayed in a continuous layer, which means that the material will have no cold bridges at all.

The advantages of the material are:

Good soundproof properties.
Low thermal conductivity due to the cellular structure.
Inertness to aggressive environments.
Environmental friendliness (however, when spraying and 10 minutes after the procedure, it is worth being in a protective mask). After hardening, the material is absolutely safe for humans.
Service life is about 30 years.
Low thermal conductivity.

However, liquid polyurethane also has disadvantages:

The material may become overgrown with condensate if the vapor barrier is not properly organized;
Under direct sunlight loses its basic properties;
Flammable and capable of smoldering.

Important: with the right installation technology, liquid polyurethane mass fills even the most inaccessible places on the roof.

Styrofoam

This is a budget option for insulating the attic roof perimeter. At the same time, foam plastic plates are easy to install, perfectly insulate and do not require knowledge of special complex laying technologies. However, you should pay attention to the fact that the foam is attractive to rodents, and an open flame leads to smoldering and ignition of the insulation. If your house is a country house (not capital), and you want to better insulate the attic of a small cottage, then this option will be quite acceptable.

Mineral wool

Long-familiar to masters, rolled material for insulating walls and roof space is used less frequently today. However, during installation, the thickness of the insulating mineral wool layer for the roof should be 10-20 cm. However, despite the fact that mineral wool is laid almost waste-free due to the possibility of cutting it, you should always remember that this insulation is able to accumulate moisture. So, when wet, it will increase its mass. Thus, a large load will be exerted on the roof frame. In addition, wet mineral wool insulation can slide down over time, which will form cold bridges.

Important: solid insulation such as polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam must be laid on top of the roof sheathing. If we are talking about mineral wool or ecowool, then they are placed between the rafter legs under the crate. And remember, no matter selected material alwaysneedbut strictly observe the technology of its installation.

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