Calculator of wooden houses and baths. Cost calculator

All project cards on our website have a detailed description and approximate cost of the finished house. But you can calculate the timber for a house or a bath using a calculator by changing the thickness of the walls or making other changes. To use the calculator, select the following options:

type of building (house or bath);
complete set (turnkey or shrink);
log house project (select from our catalogue);
beam section (90x140 mm, 140x140 mm or 190x140 mm);
foundation design (pile-screw, strip, etc.);
ceiling height (number of wall crowns);
type of interior decoration (lining, block house, etc.);
type of exterior finish (lining, block house, etc.);
insulation of floors and roofs (knauf, rockwool of various thicknesses).

You also need to fill in the fields: type of windows, roofing material and other data. Our calculator for calculating the timber will help you in solving the main issue of construction - how much will the finished log house cost?

Construction is always clear calculations and figures. There is also force majeure, for example, heavy rain for 3 weeks, or a sharp cold snap for several days. And sometimes there is an illness of builders, injuries. Everything happens in our life! That is why such difficulties must also be taken into account.

Calculator

At the beginning of any construction, a clear calculation of its cost is necessary:

To do this, you need to calculate the amount of material needed.
Calculate the cost of components.
Calculate the cost of work.
Calculate the remoteness of the object and the exact cost of delivery of goods, and their further unloading.

In our construction calculator, we tried to take all this into account.

It must be said that the present value includes the main items of expenditure.

You just have to choose the area of \u200b\u200bthe house based on square meters:

70-120 square meters;
120-180 square meters;
180-250 square meters;
250-550 square meters.

The next point is one of the most important. This is foundation calculator. You can't make a mistake here. Therefore, it is advisable to contact our specialist to accurately determine the type of foundation you need.

Wall assembly material calculator. Our wall assembly calculator offers several calculation options: profiled timber, glued laminated timber, CCB, chopped logs.

roof calculator. Also a very important point. The roofing calculator will do exactly the calculation that you choose. You can leave the roofing material for shrinkage. And you can immediately cover with a finishing material. For example: metal tiles, soft roofing or natural "cement-sand" tiles.

Engineering Systems Calculator, more complex than all the others. Here the calculation is designed in the most detailed way. You can choose: electrical calculator, water supply calculator, heating calculator, sewerage calculator. But here, you can check the box - NO. And then, the calculation of engineering systems will not be made.

The last, very important point is the finish. Finishing work calculator is also very complex. based on your algorithm. Here you can put into the calculation: a warm contour, a facade finishing calculator, a home finishing calculator. Or select NO. In this case, the finishing calculator will not make additional calculations.

After selecting all the necessary indicators for the configuration, the house construction cost calculator will give you a price based on your wishes, as well as a selection of suitable finished projects.

Our company has:

design and architectural department;
department of technical supervision;
construction department;
production department.

Employees of our company are graduates of the best construction and architectural universities in the country (Moscow State University of Civil Engineering, Moscow State Institute of Architecture and Civil Engineering).

Also, we have our own modern production, which is located in the city of Vologda.

Unique and high-quality solutions in the spirit of Russian traditions - this is our profile!

FOUNDATION:
gravel bedding:
10.6 m³ x 1900 rub/m³	20140 rub.
concrete mix B15-20:
8.1 m³ x 4200 rub/m³	34020 rub.
concrete mix B15-20:
35.5 m³ x 4200 rub/m³	149100 rub.
reinforcing bars D10, 12, 16 AIII:
2.8 t x 37500 rub/ton	105000 rub.
foundation blocks FBS 24-3-6:
53 pcs. x 2360 rub./pc.	125080 rub.
sand-cement mortar:
1.4 m³ x 2700 rub/m³	3780 rub.
edged boards for formwork:
1.6 m³ x 6500 rub/m³	10400 rub.
roll waterproofing RKK-350:
4 rolls x 315 rubles/roll (10m²)	1260 rub.

TOTAL: on the foundation

448780 rub.

COVERS:
pine beams 150x100:
4.8 m³ x 7000 rub/m³	33600 rub.
drywall Knauf (2500x1200x10):
26 pcs. x 260 rub./pc.	6760 rub.
steel profile with fasteners:
220.1 l.m x 51 rub./l.m	11225 rub.
mineral insulation (Rockwool):
19 m³ x 3700 rubles/m³	70300 rub.
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
183 m² x 68 rubles/m²	12444 rub.
PE vapor barrier:
183 m² x 11 rubles/m²	2013 rub.
plywood FK 1525x1525x18:
1.4 m³ x 19000 rub/m³	26600 rub.
subfloor edged boards:
1.5 m³ x 6500 rub/m³	9750 rub.

TOTAL: by floors

172692 rub.

ROOF:
wooden racks (150x50mm):
3.7 m³ x 7000 rub/m³	25900 rub.
antiseptic solution:
54 l x 75 rubles/liter	4050 rub.
waterproofing (Tyvek Soft):
167 m² x 68 rubles/m²	11356 rub.
bituminous euroslate 2000x950x2.7:
97 sheets x 399 rubles/sheet	38703 rub.
roofing nails 73x3mm:
21 pack. x 190 rubles / pack (250 pcs.)	3990 rub.
figure skate (1000mm):
13 pcs. x 290 rub./pc.	3770 rub.
edged boards 100x25mm:
1.3 m³ x 7000 rub/m³	9100 rub.

10:0,0,0,260;0,290,260,260;290,290,260,0;290,0,0,0|5:100,100,0,260;195,195,0,260;0,100,100,100;100,195,139,139;195,290,100,100|1127:139,139|1327:75,37;75,109|1527:195,37;195,109|2244:0,33;0,157;290,157|2144:34,0;34,260;129,260;224,260|2417:290,34;290,67|2317:169,0|1927:132,-20

RUB 1,140,410.0

Only for the Moscow region!

Calculation of the cost of work

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Layout example 10x9 m for calculation	Structural scheme
		1. Wooden bars150x150mm; 2. mineral wool boards d=100mm; 3. cladding with siding; 4. Air channel d=20-50mm; 7. Wood beam ceilings d=150-250mm; 8. Ondulin sheets; 9. The foundation is slab monolithic with block walls h=1.8m;

Wall made of timber material with siding profile trim and internal heat insulator

timber wall

The features of wooden-beam housing have been proven to neutralize toxic substances, automatically adjust the amount of humidity in the range of 45-55%, and also have a beneficial effect on the psyche of residents.

The popularity of wooden-log architecture in our country is predetermined by the economy, tradition and healthy environment of housing construction from a natural array.

At construction bases, it is possible to meet lumber products of sizes 150x100, 200x150, 100x100, 140x140, 180x180, 150x150, 120x120, of which the 150x150 type is the most purchased, as it provides an optimal combination of installation labor intensity, given by the number of horizontal seams, and thermal insulation qualities, as well as affordable price.

It should be added that now the share of sales of profiled, in particular, prefabricated glued timber, is clearly growing, which is characterized, compared to non-glued wood, by 10 times lower compressibility during drying, as well as increased, due to studded joints, structural and thermal insulation qualities . An obvious negative point that slows down the widespread use of glued laminated lumber is its significant cost, which, however, is compensated a hundredfold by its long service life.

An approximate procedure for laying a log cabin:

First, on the top of the foundation, covered with waterproof material, along the line of the walls, the lower beam row is laid out, which is tied "in the paw" at the corners and at the points of attachment of the intermediate walls.
To prevent door and window structures from deforming during the shrinkage of a wooden house, door and window niches are surrounded on the sides with a “pigtail” - rack-profiles. To do this, a trapezoidal spike is cut out at the ends of the logs, onto which, with the help of a reciprocal cutout, the named profiled bars are pushed. At the top of doors and windows, technological slots are arranged, laid with flax-jute or basalt insulation.
During the installation of the log house, the log rows are covered with an inter-row compactor: felt, jute, flax jute, hemp, flax, tow, which a year later (or when the moisture content of the tree becomes 12-15 percent) will have to be re-compacted a second time in order to reduce heat loss through the gaps between logs.
In order to connect the beams of the near crowns, dowel fastening is used (rounded birch or oak rods with a diameter of Ø30-40 mm), which are inserted with a gap into holes made through three crowns of the beams, in increments of 0.3 ... 0.4 m. Often, the dowel fastening is replaced with large nails (250 ... 300 mm), with obligatory drilling in the last log of the channel, 30 ÷ 40 mm deep, where the nail head is buried, to compensate for the linear compression of the wooden material during drying.
When choosing an interior finish, one should take into account the permanent deformations of the wooden material and, when fixing non-wood facing boards (for example, drywall), avoid direct connections to the timber wall by means of suspended buffer profile structures.

siding cladding

In the case when winter habitation is expected, it is recommended that the timber structure is also thermally insulated. Usually, on the street side, in a vertical position, thick boards are mounted, 100x50 mm in size, with a step of 0.4 ... -125, PPZH-200, Ursa, Knauf, Izorok, after that a vapor-permeable film (Tyvek, Yutavek, Izospan) is stretched, lined with blocks, 25-50 mm thick, along which a false front wall is installed (PVC siding, wooden lining or slabs CSP).

You need to know that the PVC siding profile will be used for many years and have a beautiful appearance, only if the installation rules are strictly observed.

Manufacturers of plastic siding profiles, such as Snowbird, Gentek, Docke, Nordside, AltaProfile, Ortho, Holzplast, Tecos, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Mitten, FineBer, Vytec, announce a rich color scheme that allows any building to retain its individuality.

Since the PVC siding profile changes linear dimensions very much with temperature fluctuations, it is important to provide for non-rigid attachment of vinyl plates.

Polyvinyl chloride siding does not rot, is resistant to shock, biological, climatic aggression, does not support combustion.

The vinyl profile under the influence of an open flame only melts, igniting when heated to more than 390 ° C (moreover, the tree is already at 230-260 ° C), quickly extinguishing when the heating source disappears, while the amount of emissions hazardous to health is no more significant than during the combustion of materials from wood.

Important points for fixing PVC siding:

Installation of PVC panels is carried out "from the ground", and, at first, a hidden initial strip is fixed.
To compensate for free compressions or expansions of polymer siding, slots should be provided, within 1 cm, in the input areas of external networks (pipes, wires, brackets, cables), as well as in the areas where the plastic panel and accessories are joined (external corner, internal corner, H- profile, casing, etc.).
It is unacceptable to tighten the self-tapping screws with force in the fixing grooves, because the siding profiles are suspended in such a way as to move freely from side to side.
In order not to interfere with thermal shifts and, accordingly, not to provoke wave-like warping of the vinyl material, it is more correct to screw in self-tapping screws and nail nails into the siding panel to the central point of the existing technological perforations.
When hanging the next strip of siding, dock it behind the trailing ledge with the underlying profile and, without deforming, fix it with screws;
It is recommended to install vinyl profiles starting from the side wall of the building, moving to the front side, while each next siding panel will overlap the previous one in the stacked row, approximately 2.5-3 cm - this approach makes it possible to make inconspicuous joints, with for the same purpose, the arising joints, for connecting rows, must be shifted horizontally.

Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and prefabricated block tape

The prefabricated slab foundation is constructed over the entire area of the structure in the form of a solid reinforced slab, on which standard reinforced concrete blocks are mounted.

The considered type of foundation is used in low-rise housing construction to obtain the basement level of the house, on heterogeneous soils, in a situation of low groundwater levels. On swampy areas, it is recommended to carry out the side walls of the foundation using a monolithic method, using waterproof measures (coating, impregnation, gluing).

At the same time, the prefabricated block system of vertical foundation walls, based on an existing reinforced concrete slab, is indispensable with limited construction time, as well as in the production of foundation work in winter.

An exemplary method for making a solid-slab foundation with side walls in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete tape:

At the beginning, the land is removed to the planned mark.
Gravel preparation is poured onto the resulting sub-base, fractions 20-40, with a layer of 15-20 cm, and carefully compacted.
Concrete pouring is carried out, with a layer of 50 mm.
A waterproofing film is applied with an offset of 2000 mm along the border, in order to further waterproof the foundation sidewalls.
To protect the waterproofing membrane from accidental ruptures during welding of the reinforcing structure, another layer of sand-cement mortar, 5 cm thick, is applied over the insulating coating, along the perimeter of which formwork panels are mounted along the thickness of the foundation slab.
The foundation slab being made is pulled together from the inside with two meshes of welded reinforcing bars of section d14 of type AII-AIII with cells of 20x20 cm.
In the case of a slab foundation, ready-made concrete is required, grades not lower than M300, supplied by an automixer.
The period of hardening of the concrete mortar, when the perimeter of ready-made concrete blocks should be laid out, is from 4 weeks, at a temperature of + 15 ± 5 °.
Concrete blocks are laid relative to the center lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, guided by geodetic equipment. Prefabricated blocks are laid with a crane on a "bed" of sand-cement mortar.
The installation begins with the laying of lighthouse blocks at the crosshairs of the axes and at the corners of the building. The laying of wall blocks is started only after the alignment of the position of the landmark blocks along the horizon and level.
On the top row of reinforced concrete blocks, in a panel formwork form, a reinforced reinforced concrete screed is made, 25 cm thick.

Covering from wooden beams

For beam ceilings, coniferous wood (spruce, pine, larch) with a moisture content of less than 14 percent is traditionally used. The best beam is a bar with sectional proportions of 7/5 (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).

In suburban construction, floors made of wooden beams are especially common, due to the simplicity and low cost of their construction.

When planning a timber-and-beam floor, it is necessary to use special diagrams that determine the correlation of the dimensions of the beam from the distance between the supports and the load; it is also permissible to build on the simplified calculation that the wide side of the beam should be approximately 1/24 of the beam length, and the thickness should be 5 ÷ 10 cm, with intervals between beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 1.5 kPa.

With a deficit of a lag of the calculated section, it is permissible to use boards tightened with bolts, subject to the obligatory observance of the total size.

Some features of the installation of wood beams:

The installation of beams is done in the following order: first, the first and last, and then, with leveling at the optical level, all the others. The bars should be wound onto the wall structure no shorter than 150-200 mm.
The logs are moved away from the wall by at least 50 mm, and the distance between the beams and the smoke channel must be at least 0.40 m.
in wooden buildings, the ends of the lag are hemmed in the shape of a cone, and then they are hammered into the completed drank of the upper crown to the full thickness of the wall log.
As a rule, in brick walls, the ends of the beams are installed in masonry nests, in which condensate appears, therefore, between the cut ends of the log and the wall, they leave space for air circulation, and with a significant depth of the opening, an additional felt layer is placed.
To avoid mold, which occurs when steam diffuses surrounded by a brick wall, the ends of the beam boards are cut at an angle of about 60 degrees, treated with an antiseptic (Tikkurila, Kartocid, Dulux, Biofa, Pinotex, Tex, Cofadex, Biosept, KSD, Holzplast, Senezh, Teknos , Aquatex) and cover with roofing paper, leaving the end open.

The attic floor is insulated with the implementation of a vapor barrier layer under the insulation, the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier film on top of the insulation layer, and the interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation.

If the issue of the load capacity of wooden interfloor ceilings is mainly settled by the method of an obvious increase in the cross section of the beams and their number, then the situation with fire resistance and acoustic insulation is somewhat more complicated.

One of the options for improving the soundproof and fireproof performance of timber interlevel ceilings consists of the following steps:

To the bottom of the beam beams, perpendicular to them, with the help of elastic holders, after 30-40 cm, bars-sheathing are installed, on which gypsum boards are attached from below.
On the upper surface of the resulting lattice structure, a fiberglass film is laid and attached with a stapler to the beams, on which mineral fiber plates are tightly laid out, such as: Izorok, Ursa, Isover, Knauf, Izomin, Rockwool, with a layer of 50 mm, with a transition to the side faces of the beams.
In rooms of the next level, a layer of chipboard (16 ÷ 25 mm) is nailed onto the beams, after that, a hard mineral fiber sound absorber (25 ÷ 30 mm), and chipboard boards of the "floating" floor are laid again.

Bituminous slate roof

Soft slate (aka, ondulin slate, ondulin, euroslate, bituminous slate, bituminous slate), in fact, is a molded cardboard-cellulose material, fixed with a distilled bitumen compound and colored with a polymer, UV-resistant, coloring composition. bituminous slate is made under various brands (Bituwell, Aqualine, Nuline, Onduline, Guttanit, Ondura, Corrubit). The usual dimensions of corrugated sheets: 2000x950, the number of waves is 10.

The main qualities of bituminous slate roofing are the speed of construction and affordable cost. In terms of weak points, it is worth mentioning a fairly short-lived loss of color vibrancy, as well as a noticeable combustibility of bitumen-cardboard material, compared to metal tiles.

The roofing material is laid on a solid base made of a sheathing layer and rafters.

In the case of private buildings, a two- or three-span structure is usually used with intermediate supporting walls and sloping rafters.

The interval between the rafter legs is usually performed in the range of 0.60 ... 0.90 m with a width / thickness of the rafter legs 5x15 ... 10x15 cm; the supporting ends of the rafter beams are fixed to a fixing beam measuring 100x100 ... 150x150 mm.

The transverse overlap of the bituminous slate sheets and the frequency of laying the sheathing are determined by the slope of the roof slope: if the angle is more than 15 degrees, then the gap between the boards of the sheathing structure is set to 0.30 ... 0.35 m, and the overlap is 17 centimeters.
It is better to fasten corrugated sheets of ondulin from the lower zone of the side part of the slope, opposite to the leeward side, to protect them from wrapping during hurricane loads.
The next layer is laid with a shift of half a canvas, from the canvases of the underlying tier, in order to avoid unnecessary layering in the joints of four adjacent sheets, which contributes to the formation of leaks.
Sheets of euroslate are fixed along the bottom edge into each wave crest, along two intermediate crate boards into odd wave crests, and the top is covered with an overlap of the upper sheet or a ridge detail. To fix each corrugated sheet, about twenty self-cutting roofing screws (size 65.0x5.5 mm) or nails are enough: length / diameter -73.5 / 3.0 mm with elastomeric washers.
Ordinary overlapping of canvases is enough to arrange in one wave, and with a roof slope of less than 10-11 degrees. - in 2 corrugated waves.
The ridge is strengthened from the side of laying corrugated sheets, with an overlap of 0.2 m, with screws screwed into each corrugation vertex of the underlying corrugated fabric.
In order to protect and decorate the side sections of the roof slope, chip profiles are used, the fixing of which starts from the corner above the eaves, overlapping by 0.2 m.

Building a house from a bar is always associated with considerable financial costs. But so that they do not exceed the allotted limit and you have enough materials, you need to calculate the construction of a house from a bar.

Our Remontik portal offers step-by-step steps for calculating a beam for building a house:

	Bar consumption for the house.
	The formula for calculating the material consumption for the load-bearing walls of a building.
	Consumption of material for the roof frame of the house.
	Factors affecting the amount of material needed for a roof frame.
	Calculation of the amount of material for the crate and rafters.
	The number of blanks for the installation of beams.
	Calculation of the number of floorboards.

Regardless of whether you are planning to build housing on your own or for this you decide to hire workers, you need to draw up an estimate. It is she who will be the basis of all work.
A house made of timber contains the following structural elements:

walls;

roof;

logs for floor and ceiling;

crate;

rafters;

fasteners and insulation;

windows and doors;

strapping.

Consumption of timber for building a house

For the construction of a house for permanent residence, a beam of 150x150 mm, 150x100 mm, 200x200mm or 100x100 mm is used. Before you start work, you should choose the size of the blanks and calculate how much timber you may need. Usually calculations are made in cubic meters, and not in pieces.

Form for calculating the beam for load-bearing walls

The calculation of a beam for building a house can be carried out according to the following formula:

to begin with, the sum of the lengths of all the walls of the building is calculated, and not just external, but also internal;
the perimeter must be multiplied by the height of the house, excluding the gable (the facade of the building, which is limited by the eaves and roof slopes);
the value you get should be multiplied by the thickness of the timber for construction.

As a result, you will get the number of cubes that you need to build a house. As a rule, they are limited to one or two floors.

As a result, to build a house, you will need 13.5 m 3 of timber with a section of 150x150 mm. If you plan to use more walls, then it is important to take them into account in the calculations.

For the convenience of calculating the construction of a house from a bar and facilitating the choice, you can use the data shown in the table (with a length of 6 meters):

Bar section	pieces per cube	The volume of one piece
200x200 mm	4,1	0.24 m 3
150x150 mm	7,4	0.135 m 3
100x150 mm	11,1	0.09 m 3
100x100 mm	16,6	0.06 m 3

In order to perform the correct calculation of building a house from a bar, you need to take into account what you cannot avoid with individual construction - even a trusted supplier will have several defective units in one batch. This must be taken into account at the time of purchase and order blanks with a small margin.

Roof frame material consumption

For a log house, a truss system is used, which acts as the supporting frame of the roof. Wood is a durable material, but despite this, it should not be overloaded, otherwise it can provoke the destruction of load-bearing walls and uneven shrinkage.

The truss system belongs to the category of pitched roofs. Cheaper and easier to build a gable roof with your own hands. The technology is accessible to a beginner, and it takes much less material.

Factors Affecting the Amount of Material Needed for a Roof Frame

If you want the roof to be not only beautiful, but also reliable, do not save on building materials. It is important not to deviate from the technology when building it yourself.

The frame of a wooden roof contains the following mandatory elements:

rafters or rafter legs;

pediment, consisting of a beam similar to load-bearing walls;

beams (logs) - horizontally located bars, represent the basis for laying the floorboard;

mauerlat - a thick layer along the perimeter of the walls is used to evenly distribute the weight of the frame;

crate - fastened to the rafters and acts as the basis for the installation of the roof.

How to calculate the cost of building a quality house from a bar

According to SNiP 31-02, any roof has a number of requirements, taking into account which building materials need to be calculated. That is, in order for the frame to fully comply with the declared standards and provide protection for the house from snow, rain and melt water, and not let cold air through, you need to find out exactly how many blanks are needed.

Calculation of the amount of timber for the frame: Mauerlat

The amount of material directly depends on the coverage area. For example, we can consider a 6x6 house. For a high-quality foundation, you will need a thick, strong timber 150x150 mm or 150x100 mm. It is laid on four load-bearing walls, respectively, to make a Mauerlat, four beams are needed, each 6 meters long.

Attention! If the house does not imply the presence of internal load-bearing walls, then it is important that the distance between them does not exceed 8 meters. If there is another support inside the house, then it is worth increasing the distance to 14-16 meters.

For example: 6+6+9+9=30 meters.

The perimeter, namely 30 meters, must be divided by the length of one bar: 30 m / 6 m = 5 pieces.

As a result, for the construction of a Mauerlat for a house of 6x9 m, 5 bars of 6 meters are needed.

Calculation of the amount of material for the crate and rafters

The rafter system is the main support for the roofing material, which protects the house from snow and wind.

The calculation of the timber that will go to the construction of the rafters is done according to the following formula:

The total load of wind and snow per 1 m 2 of the roof - it is calculated on the basis of SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and Impacts". Therefore, for a slope with an angle of 45 degrees, the length of the roof is 6.5 meters and the length of the rafters is 3.5 meters, the load is 226.3 kg / m 2.
The total load is 5148 kg. Now we multiply 6.5 m by 3.5 m and we get 22.75 m, which represents the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe slope (5148 kg).
Then you need to find out the length of all the rafters and how much timber you need to purchase for their construction. To do this, given that 1 running meter can withstand a weight of 100 kg, we divide 5148 kg into structures and get 51.48 m. This will be the minimum length of the rafters.
The slope of the roof hangs over the wall by about 50 cm, which means you need to buy wood of 4 meters.
It is very easy to calculate the number of pieces: 51.48 / 4 \u003d 12.87, or more precisely, 14, since they are arranged in pairs. That is, you need 7 pairs.

According to the instructions, the distance between the rafters should be equal to the number that is obtained if the length of the roof is divided by one less than the number of pairs of rafters, namely 6.5 / 6 \u003d 1.08 meters. The cross section of blanks is 150x150 mm or 100x150 mm.

The rafter system also contains a wooden crate. Boards about 2.5 cm thick are used for it. They must be placed horizontally, namely parallel to the ridge.

At the same time, the width of the board should not be more than 15 cm. There are two laying methods, on which the number of timber purchased depends.

The first is continuous laying, when the distance is not more than 1-2 cm and discharged. In this case, the flight can reach 10 or more centimeters. The more often the boards lie, the warmer and stronger the structure, but at the same time, its cost also increases.

Calculating the amount is very easy. The length of the board and skate is measured. Then the installation of the skate must be divided by the footage of the board. Thus, you can find out how many boards were needed for the support strip.

If the width is 15 centimeters, and the gap is 5, then the number obtained after addition must be divided by the length of the slope. As a result, you will receive the number of blanks.

Calculating the cost of building a log house is a painstaking task. Therefore, it is important to take into account the fact that everything must be purchased with a margin. The roof flow rate is calculated taking into account the roof surface area. At the same time, natural openings are not taken into account - a place for an attic door and a chimney door, if there is one in the project.

Overlapping from beams is especially in demand in low-rise construction. They have a relatively low price, they are quick and easy to manufacture, wood is a durable material and has a low weight. It does not give significant loads on the foundation structure.

For the ceiling of the beams, only coniferous wood is used. In most cases, this is larch, since it is the most reliable and durable material that can withstand a lot of weight:

good resistance to temperature extremes;
stable tightness;
practically no shrinkage.

It is worth giving preference to the best blanks that have been dried in steam chambers and have a moisture content of no more than 14%. In this case, the aspect ratio should be the following 150x200 mm or 150x100 mm.

For proper design, in order to perform a competent calculation of materials for the construction of timber, it is necessary to take into account the width of the span. The larger it is, the more often the beams are laid, and their number also increases. To cover the attic, it is not at all necessary to lay the workpieces very close to each other.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which allows you to determine how many pieces you will need:

Span width in meters	Distance between beams in meters	Optimum workpiece cross section in mm
3	1	150x100
4	0,5	150x100
4	1	150x150
5	0,5	150x200
6	0,5	150x200
7	0,5	150x250

This means that for a span of 4 m, you need to buy 6 blanks for laying floor beams, starting from a step of 1 m. That is, 4 pieces will be used to close the span and 2 more will go to the edges near the walls. The cost directly depends on the length of the beam.

Calculation of the number of floorboards

Before calculating how much floorboard you need, you should decide on its dimensions:

the optimal length is 4, 4.5 and 6 meters;
thickness is represented by the following sizes: 32 mm, 25 mm and 30 mm;
standard width - 105 mm or 100 mm.

If you are planning to make a floor from whole boards, then it is worth reducing the amount of waste.

The calculation of the material for building a house from a bar is carried out on the basis of the width and length of the covered area and on how the board will spread - across or along.

It is quite easy to do the calculations. If you know the parameters of the blanks, then you will determine the usable area, it is 5-7 mm less than the actual one as a result of the sheet pile.

Typically, manufacturers make boards 6 meters long. You also need to consider the amount of waste that you cannot avoid.

The calculations are performed as follows:

Divide the known area of the room by the area of the board, taking into account only the useful area - this is the amount needed for laying.
When the room has parameters other than 6 meters, it is important to consider the amount of the whole material. To do this, the width of the room is divided by the working width of the floor board.

Based on the information received, you can easily find out how much it will cost you to build a house from a bar. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account such consumables as roofing material, insulation and additional fasteners. Their number directly depends on the area, the design of the house and other factors.

Conclusion

Building a house from a bar will be much easier than a brick one, and is available to every novice owner. After completing the construction calculation, you will receive an approximate amount of the object, which you should focus on when planning the budget.