How to get rid of powdery mildew on plants, bushes and trees? Fighting measures! Powdery mildew (sferoteka) Powdery mildew folk methods.

It affects trees, shrubs, vegetable plants leaving alone and decorative. Moreover, it is possible to predict where the main blow will fall. If the end of May and the beginning of June were rainy, then the fungus primarily attacks young plants, and if the weather was hot at that time, then old specimens of bushes and trees will be more susceptible to the disease. Give them more attention.

Infection begins, most often, from the lower leaves and shoots, spreading further throughout the plant. This disease manifests itself in the form of a white-gray plaque on the upper surface of the leaf. Later, when the spores of the fungus mature, droplets of liquid appear on the affected areas.

From powdery mildew, the plant's leaf surface is reduced, capable of photosynthesis and the perception of moisture and oxygen. As a result, the leaves dry, the yield decreases, and its quality deteriorates significantly. In addition, winter hardiness decreases in diseased plants, and affected inflorescences do not produce ovaries.

powdery mildew appears around the middle of June. Therefore, at this time, take Special attention to their plants.


Powdery mildew fungus lives off its host plant, so it will not completely destroy it in order to next year eat here again.

Causes of Powdery Mildew

The following factors usually lead to the appearance of powdery mildew on plants:


How to deal with powdery mildew

Prevention

Agricultural practices

  1. A preventive measure against this disease is the acquisition and planting of plant varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew.
  2. It is extremely important to follow the rules of crop rotation.
  3. Do not forget to loosen the soil around the plants, so in this case the upper layers of the soil are saturated with oxygen, from which the fungi die.
  4. In no case do not thicken the landing. The sun should penetrate well from all sides of the plant. Be sure to remove weeds that also thicken crops.
  5. In autumn, fallen leaves from diseased plants must be removed from the site and burned. It is better to remove the affected tops of currants or gooseberries from the bush and also burn them.

The use of drugs

In addition to agricultural practices, a good prevention is the use of special preparations such as "Fitosporin" (more on them below).

For the prevention of powdery mildew, copper sulfate is often used, which is considered by many to be the most ideal remedy. Processing is carried out only once for any crops before flowering. Take 2 tablespoons of copper sulfate, which are diluted in 10 liters of water. Bushes and trees are sprayed with this solution.

Measures to combat powdery mildew in the event of a disease

You can effectively deal with this scourge with biological or chemical preparations. But before treating a plant with powdery mildew, it is necessary to cut off and burn all the affected leaves from it.

Folk remedies

We bring to your attention a few simple folk recipes, which are successfully used by gardeners in the fight against fungal diseases.

Recipe #1

It is necessary to take 1 part of cow dung, 3 parts of water and insist all this for 3 days. Finished product filter and dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 1. The resulting solution is sprayed with diseased plants. Such a solution destroys the mycelium of the fungus.

Recipe #2

Serum from cottage cheese is considered a very effective remedy. Simply pour the serum into a handheld sprayer and spray all your crops. Serum can be used to treat plants repeatedly, without paying attention to the period of flowering, fruiting, etc.

Recipe #3

Another recipe for powdery mildew based on milk. You need to take 1 liter of sour cow's milk and mix with one liter warm water. Spray crops with this solution for a week.

Recipe #4

For the following recipe, you will need 50 grams of regular table salt and the same laundry soap. These ingredients must be diluted in 10 liters of warm water. Plants should be treated with the resulting solution every five to seven days.

Recipe number 5

You need to take ordinary iodine, and add 10 ml to a 10 liter bucket of water. Mix thoroughly and process the plant.


Iodine is used as one of the means in the fight against powdery mildew.
Recipe #6

For 4 liters of water, take 1 tablespoon baking soda, 1 teaspoon liquid soap. With this solution, treat your powdery mildew-infected crops three times with an interval of 2-3 days.

By the way, you can treat the plant both with an ordinary spray gun and with the help of, for example, an ordinary broom. Just dip the broom into the working solution, and spray it directly on the leaves.

Purchased drugs

Systemic fungicides

The above folk recipes are good, but, alas, they do not always work 100%, especially if the plant is already heavily affected by the fungus, and preventive measures were not taken in advance.

For a guaranteed cure for powdery mildew, it is better to use fungicides (from the word "fungi" - mushroom). As an example, we can name the funds "Topaz", "Kvadris".

"Topaz" can be called the most effective fungicide against powdery mildew, fruit rot and rust. It is also used for preventive purposes, for which plants are sprayed at the beginning of their growing season. You can use the drug for stone fruits and pome fruits, vegetable crops, for almost all ornamental plants(including indoor flowers), as well as for the vine.

As for Quadris, it is used to protect against major diseases (true and downy mildew, late blight, mildew, oidium) of tomatoes, cucumbers, as well as grapes, onions, cabbage, potatoes, peas. "Kvadris" has a preventive, curative and eradicating effect. It has good compatibility with other preparations used on crops.

We will not describe in detail how to carry out processing by these means. Let's say that everything is done in strict accordance with the instructions that are attached to each drug.

In addition to the named Topaz and Quadris, in this category of antifungal drugs, one can mention Bona Forte, Bravo, Vectra, Diskor, Maxim, Oksihom, Raek, Skor, etc. .

Biological fungicides

It should be said right away that fighting the fungus, systemic fungicides can damage healthy plants as well, and are generally not very environmentally friendly. Therefore, the industry produces more soft remedies, the so-called biological fungicides. These include primarily Fitosporin. It works on the basis of the bacterium Bacillus Subtilus, also known as hay bacillus. Once on plants, this bacterium devours the fungal environment, thereby destroying the disease.

"Fitosporin" is sold in canned form (sealed in plastic bag), and in order for the bacteria to come to life, they must be placed in an aquatic environment, or more simply, dilute the contents in water. In order for the process to go in the best way, put the container with water, where Fitosporin was added, for five to six hours in a cool place. Then this suspension should be added 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water and spray your plants with the resulting solution.


Phytosporin must first be diluted in a small amount of water

As mentioned above, cultures can be treated with Fitosporin and in early spring as preventive measure from powdery mildew.

In addition to Fitosporin, biological fungicides include Gliocladin, Gamair, Baktofit, Alirin-B, Agat-25K, Trichodermin, and others.

When to process

As a general rule, fruit and berry plants are recommended to be processed before flowering and after it, until the berries and fruits begin to pour. But popular measures(serum) can be used during flowering and fruiting.

All treatments are best done in the evening, closer to sunset. If the treatment is carried out in the heat of the sun, then everything will be in vain, the drugs will not work.

Conclusion

As you can see, powdery mildew is not as scary as it might seem. The techniques against it are well known, you just have to remember to use them. Choose what you like best, which is more suitable for your site and your crops. We advise you to pay attention to Fitosporin and other biological fungicides. Of course, if the situation is not quite running.

In a timely manner Taken measures will help you prevent the spread of the disease and get the desired harvest.

In contact with

Powdery mildew is one of the most common fungal diseases affecting roses. Powdery mildew on roses is caused by Sphaerotheca pannosa, a powdery mildew fungus.


Other names for powdery mildew are white roses, sphere library. This article will address the following questions:

  1. How to recognize the disease, what diseased plants look like.
  2. What factors contribute to the development of the sphere library.
  3. How to prevent powdery mildew on roses.
  4. How to cure diseased plants.
  5. Do folk remedies help in the treatment of the sphere library.
  6. Description of varieties of roses resistant to powdery mildew.

Description of the disease.

Small whitish mealy spots appear on the foliage of a diseased plant, which, it would seem, can be easily erased. But the spots form again and again, quickly grow throughout the entire leaf plate. Powdery-powdery coating extends to green shoots and peduncles. As a result, the leaves curl up and dry out, the shoots develop poorly.

This powdery coating forms the mycelium of the powdery fungus, consisting of conidia. Conidia are spores of asexual reproduction of a fungus summer period which are easily carried by the wind to neighboring plants. Sferoteka is able to hit the entire bush in a few days. If urgent treatment measures are not taken, the plant will be weakened, the shoots will not mature. In winter, such a rose is threatened with freezing.

Rose bush heavily affected by powdery mildew.

By autumn, the plaque becomes denser, small dense dark dots appear on it - cleistothecia. These are the fruiting bodies of the fungus, inside which the spores of the sexual reproduction of the fungus are formed. In this form, the fungus hibernates, and in the spring the spores are released and infect the plants again.

That contributes to the rapid development of the disease.

Powdery mildew develops rapidly at temperatures of 20-25 degrees and relative humidity up to 80%. Such favorable conditions for the disease are created:

  • When warm weather sets in after past rains, moisture begins to evaporate and relative humidity rises.
  • In thickened rose gardens, with poor ventilation, air is formed high humidity which contributes to the development of the disease.
  • A large difference between day and night temperatures is accompanied by heavy dew.
  • An excess of nitrogen-containing fertilizers contributes to the growth of young tender leaves, which are primarily affected by infection.

Prevention of powdery mildew on roses.

It is well known that it is easier to prevent a disease than to fight it long and painfully. Powdery mildew prevention will protect your flowers from many other fungal diseases as well.

Prevention measures:

  • Removal of infected leaves, shoots and other plant debris on which the spores of the fungus can overwinter. Weeding weeds around bushes.
  • Do not water roses with "rain".
  • When planting roses, keep the required distance between the bushes, because. in dense plantings, due to poor air circulation, increased humidity is formed.
  • Use nitrogen-containing fertilizers sparingly and only until mid-summer. Nitrogen contributes to the strong growth of young leaves and shoots, which are attacked by powdery mildew in the first place.
  • Potassium-phosphorus top dressing promotes the ripening of shoots and buds and increases the rose's resistance to fungal attacks.
  • spraying rose bushes and the soil around copper-containing preparations early spring and late autumn.
  • Positive results are obtained by preventive treatments with biofungicides (Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Planriz, etc.).
  • Purchase and plant powdery mildew resistant roses.

Powdery mildew treatment.

If, nevertheless, powdery mildew has reached your roses, you need to start treatment as soon as possible. To combat this fungal disease, there are many drugs of contact and systemic action.

Contact fungicides work on the surface of the plant, destroying pathogens upon contact with them. This group includes sulfur preparations, Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, copper sulphate, iron sulphate.

Systemic fungicides penetrate the plant tissue, making the juices harmful to fungal pathogens. Drugs are effective against powdery mildew: Topaz, Skor, Rayok.

Treatment of roses with a systemic fungicide.

Rules for treating roses with fungicides:

  1. Before spraying, it is necessary to cut off all parts of the plant affected by the disease and remove plant debris around the bush.
  2. The best time for spraying is in the morning or evening in dry, calm weather.
  3. Carefully spray all parts of the plant, trying to moisten the leaves both from above and from the bottom. It is especially important to observe this rule when working with contact drugs.
  4. Since fungi can become resistant to fungicides, it is necessary to alternate systemic and contact preparations with multiple treatments.

Consider below the fungicides used to treat powdery mildew on roses in more detail.

  • A proven and effective treatment for powdery mildew in the initial stage is colloidal sulfur. It is a contact fungicide. The powder dissolves in an amount of 30 g in 10 liters of water. It should be taken into account that at temperatures below 20 degrees, the efficiency of sulfur drops, so the concentration of the solution must be increased to 0.8-1%. At temperatures above 35 degrees, the leaves can get burned from the drug. In extreme heat, sulfur should not be applied.
  • The contact preparation Thiovit Jet contains 80% sulfur and is similar to colloidal sulfur in its action and method of application. The solution is prepared at the rate of 30-80 g per 10 liters of water.
  • Systemic fungicide Topaz is used for the prevention and treatment of powdery mildew. The working solution is prepared at the rate of 2 ml per 5 liters of water. If necessary, the treatment can be repeated after 10-14 days.
  • A universal drug for systemic and contact action, Skor is used both for the treatment and prevention of powdery mildew. 1 ml of the drug is diluted in 5 liters of slightly warm water. Skor acts most effectively at 14-25 degrees.
  • The fungicide Rayok is similar in composition to Skor, has a long-term therapeutic and protective effect in a wide temperature range.
  • Topsin M is a systemic drug of preventive and therapeutic action. To combat powdery mildew, 10-15 g of the powder is diluted in 10 liters of water.
  • Strobi is a broad-spectrum systemic drug. For spraying rose bushes, dilute 2-4 g of granules in 10 liters of water.

Folk remedies for the fight against powdery mildew on roses.

There are many folk ways powdery mildew treatment. These funds are good as preventive protection and at the beginning of the disease. In addition, some of the substances used serve additional source nutrients and enhance plant immunity.

3 times spraying with soda helps to cope with powdery mildew.

  • 1 liter of whey is diluted in 5 liters of water, 10 drops of iodine are added. The resulting solution is sprayed with roses 2-3 times a month. Serum not only protects and treats powdery mildew, but is also a source of trace elements for the plant.
  • Ash is often used to treat roses. Pour 1 kg of sifted ash with a bucket of warm water and leave for 3 days. Light infusion drain, strain and use for spraying rose bushes. For better adhesion, you can add a spoonful of laundry soap. Add water to the remaining sediment up to 10 liters and water the plants under the root as a top dressing.
  • Dilute 2 tablespoons of baking soda in 5 liters of water, add a spoonful of laundry soap and treat roses every 10-14 days for prevention. In case of disease, treatments are carried out at weekly intervals three times.
  • Pour fresh cow dung with water in a ratio of 1: 3 and leave for three days. The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and used to treat bushes.
  • In 10 l hot water stir 40-50 g of soda ash, add 40 g of laundry soap. The bushes are sprayed with a cooled solution with a week break up to two times.
  • In the initial stage of the disease, the plant can be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate (3 g per 10 liters of water) up to three times with an interval of 2-3 days.

Powdery mildew resistant rose varieties.

Presented on the market wide selection powdery mildew resistant roses. Below we give a description of some varieties that are distinguished by good immunity to diseases.

Cadillac (Cadillac)

Cadillac (Cadillac)– patio group rose. Bush up to 80 cm high. Terry flowers, scarlet color, size 5-8 cm, without aroma.
August Louise - hybrid tea rose with large up to 15 cm flowers of apricot-pink color, with a strong aroma. Bush up to 120 cm high. Rose blooms all summer.

Galaxy

Galaxy- floribunda rose. Bushes 80-100 cm high, sprawling. The rose blooms profusely with creamy yellow flowers with a pinkish edge, collected in a brush of 3-5 pcs. on the stem. Flower diameter up to 8 cm.

Westerland

Westerland- rose-shrub with large salmon-yellow flowers 10-11 cm in size. The bush grows up to 2 m. The rose blooms profusely all summer, has a strong aroma.

Aphrodite (Aphrodite)

Aphrodite (Aphrodite)- tea-hybrid rose with magnificent large 10-12 cm flowers of pale pink color, has a delicate aroma. The bush is compact in height about 80 cm.

Lady of Shalott

Lady of Shalottenglish rose with terry salmon-pink flowers 8-10 cm in size and warm aroma. The bush is branched in height up to 1.5 m. The rose blooms throughout the season.

Gold spice (Gold Spice)

Gold spice (Gold Spice)- floribunda rose with peach-yellow semi-double medium-sized flowers. The bush grows about 60-70 cm. Flowering is plentiful, long.

It should be noted that the listed varieties of roses are resistant not only to the sphere library, but also to black spot.
By planting roses resistant to powdery mildew in your garden, you can greatly facilitate your care of the rose garden. Of course, preventive measures should not be neglected, especially if the weather turned out to be unfavorable.

Powdery mildew is fungal disease which can take up to 70% of the crop from you. The disease is also known under the names of ash and white. When a leaf is damaged, a white coating of spores forms on it, which, when the mycelium matures, forms small droplets. And so the name appeared - Powdery mildew.

Powdery-white mycelium develops on the above-ground parts of plants, leaves. The disease affects not only cucumbers, but also other vegetables, bushes and trees. The diseased leaves dry up, the plants bend and die. The fungus develops and acts in a damp climate, optimal temperature for the life of the fungus is considered 16-22 degrees.

detailing step by step actions powdery mildew you can talk about the fact that first a web of fungus is formed (the so-called mycelium, or spores). White plaque is only the beginning of the capture of the plant, because it is not interested in the surface, but in the nutritional tissues of the leaf. Spores release their shoots that penetrate the skin of the leaf right up to the very middle of the soft fibers. With the help of processes, it pumps out all the nutrients to the surface of the mycelium. The mushroom picker, with renewed vigor, throws out new shoots, and so on until the leaf is completely depleted.

What does powdery mildew look like (signs)?

The main symptom of powdery mildew is whitish-gray coating. At first, the layer of plaque is thin, as if just dust. But over time, the plaque becomes thick and blackens. Small brown balls appear on the upper side of the leaves.

Affected leaves of the plant do not take natural form, twist upwards and the surface becomes loose. When the diseased leaves dry up and fall off, the plant stops breathing (after all, this is what the leaves are for) and eventually dies.

Usually, powdery mildew begins its destructive action from the lowest leaves, and gradually rises up the plant until it completely covers it. Infected fruits can be recognized by the cracks that appear.

What are the causes of powdery mildew?

Powdery mildew spores are found in the ground. Make no mistake, the soil in your garden also has these spores. However, the disease develops only under conditions that are comfortable for her.

Ideal Conditions for Powdery Mildew

  • The soil used to be dried up, and then salted;
  • Watering when the top ball of soil is still wet;
  • Damp, cool, cloudy weather throughout the week.
  • High air humidity (about 80%);
  • dense landing;
  • Excess nitrogen in the soil.

Strong and beautiful bushes(in this case, cucumber bushes) are less susceptible compared to weak bushes.

The above are the conditions under which the spores of the fungus can wake up and begin their dark deeds. It can be carried through the air, water, and even with your hands we can transfer spores to other plants, plants, bushes, trees and flowers.

How to deal with powdery mildew?

  • We do not feed the beds where the disease is noticed;
  • We stop any spraying (thus reducing air humidity);
  • If there is such an opportunity, then we improve the lighting for plants;
  • We remove weak or old leaves, thin out the plantings;
  • If the plants are in a pot or container, change upper layer land;
  • Treatment with preparations against powdery mildew, we act according to the instructions that come with the preparation.

Preparations against powdery mildew

  • Fundazol;
  • Speed;
  • Topaz;
  • Amistar extra;
  • Acrobat MC;
  • Previcour;
  • Byleton;
  • Sulfaride;
  • Tilt CE;
  • Vitaros.

Fundazol- a drug of contact action. The active substance is benomyl. Not volatile, hazard class for humans - 2 (classified as a strong toxic substance).

Speed- used as a means for the treatment and prevention of a number of plant diseases. The active substance is difenoconazole. Hazard class for humans - 3 (moderate toxic substance).

Topaz- Systemic action. The active ingredient is penconazole. Hazard class 3.

Vitaros- Sold in ampoules. Used for dressing planting material seeds and bulbs from diseases. The active ingredient is carboxine.

Fight against powdery mildew with folk remedies without chemistry

Ash along with soap. 1 kg of ash is mixed in 10 liters of heated water (approximately 30-40°C). The liquid is insisted for about 5-7 days, while not forgetting to stir. Next, the liquid is poured into a clean container, a little liquid soap is added (the soap gives stickiness, so the solution wakes up well to stick to the leaves of the plants and hold firmly there) and, in fact, they spray it. Treat with a solution of ash and soap 3 times, every day or every other day.

Garlic infusion. 25 g of chopped garlic are added to 1 liter of water (we need garlic juice), stir and infuse for 1 day. Before spraying, do not forget to strain the infusion from floating pieces of garlic.

A solution of baking soda and soap. 1 tablespoon of soda and half a teaspoon of liquid soap are dissolved in 4 liters of water. Spraying is carried out 3 times with a rest between them of 7 days.

Mustard solution. Stir 2 tablespoons of dry mustard in 10 liters of hot water. Spray when cool.

Infusion of cow dung. Decayed manure is poured with water in a ratio of 1 to 3. The concentrate is stirred and infused for 3 days. Before spraying the bushes, add water to an equal amount of concentrate, because. as many.

In video clip experienced gardener talks about how cow dung infusion helps him fight downy mildew. After all, when the fruits are already ripe, it is absolutely impossible to use chemical preparations, but natural ones are very possible.

Serum solution. Water is added to the serum in a ratio of 1 to 10. Plants are treated at least 3 times with a break of 3 days. A film is formed on the leaves and stems that does not provide oxygen to the fungus and spores, but this film serves as an additional source of nutrition for the plant, one might say top dressing.

Potassium permanganate. 2.5 g of potassium permanganate are added to 10 liters of water. Spray with a solution 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days.

Powdery mildew prevention

Experience has shown that prevention the best remedy fight not only powdery mildew, but also many other diseases.

  • Do not overfeed the soil with nitrogen fertilizers;
  • Threading thick crops;
  • Do not be late with potassium-phosphorus supplements;
  • Cut off old leaves that touch the ground;
  • Water the plants after the final drying of the top layer of the earth;
  • Removal and complete cleaning of crop residues and weeds;
  • Selection of varieties resistant to powdery mildew;
  • Deep plowing of the soil.

The video tells about the methods of struggle and preventive work against the fungal disease of powdery mildew.

☀ Good luck and all the best to you! ☀

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease caused by microscopic fungi living in the soil. The disease affects almost all cultures, manifesting itself in the form of a white powdery coating on different parts plants. Leaves infected with powdery mildew gradually turn yellow and curl, new ones appear already deformed. The disease is taking over large areas, because of which the plant dies without timely treatment. Without action, it spreads quickly and infects other crops.

  • Show all

    Description of the disease

    The first sign of infection with powdery mildew is a whitish mycelial coating on the various parts plants. It is the result of the activity of powdery mildew fungi that are introduced into the tissues of the culture. In just a few days, the disease affects the lower tier of the leaves, they lose turgor, turn yellow and gradually die off.

    Powdery mildew coating when magnified

    If you examine the affected area under magnification, you can see the formation of ulcers under the attached mycelium. Its cells corrode leaf tissue, so the plant looks sick. White plaque interferes with normal photosynthesis, which further exacerbates his condition. To save the plant, it is necessary to get rid of the fungus at the first sign of infection.

    Conditions for the onset of the disease

    Powdery mildew fungus is very common in the soil, but the disease only occurs when the right conditions are present. In warm and sunny weather and in compliance with all the rules of agricultural technology, the fungus does not manifest itself. For the development of the colony, the following are necessary favorable conditions:

    • Cool weather from high humidity and poor access sunlight. Such conditions are especially dangerous for plants located on the street or on the balcony. For indoor crops, this parameter is not so important.
    • High content of nitrogen in the soil.
    • Too dense plantings.
    • Irrigation failure. The plant can be watered too often when the earthen ball is still wet, or abundantly poured with water after a long break with dry soil. This violates the immunity of the culture and creates favorable conditions for the fungus.

    The disease can develop when powdery mildew spores are transferred through the air from neighboring specimens or when watered with contaminated water. Sometimes it is enough to touch a diseased plant with your hands, and then touch a healthy one.

    Powdery mildew elimination

    The fight against this disease must be carried out comprehensively. First of all, it is necessary to correct the mistakes in caring for the plant:

    • watering can be done only after the soil has dried;
    • until the plant is completely healthy, spraying should be excluded;
    • until the disease is eliminated, the culture must be rearranged to a brighter place, if possible;
    • too dense plantings must be thinned out, and the leaves touching the ground should be cut off;
    • refuse to apply top dressing for the duration of the illness, and during the recovery period of the plant, use exclusively potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

    Without correcting care errors, all further treatments will be useless, and the symptoms of powdery mildew infection will appear regularly.

    How to cure vegetables

    Powdery mildew can appear on various vegetable crops. Before application chemicals or folk recipes, it is necessary to remove all diseased parts of the plants, and dig up the soil around, if possible.

    If a white coating appears on cucumbers, sulfur powder treatment will help. For every 10 m², 25 to 30 g of the product is used. A good result is obtained by treatment with a solution of colloidal sulfur, for the preparation of which 30 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water. A lasting effect can be obtained by using modern fungicides - Oxyhom or Topaz, which must be applied in accordance with the attached instructions.

    Powdery mildew on tomatoes can be eliminated by spraying once every 14 days with a solution of sodium humate. At the first signs of infection, a 1% solution of "Baktofit" gives a good result if the diseased plant is treated with it three times with an interval of 7 days. Treatment can be carried out with fungicides such as Quadris, Privent, Strobi or Topaz. To improve the "stickiness" of the solution to the treated plant, a small amount of silicate glue or laundry soap shavings is added to it.

    If signs of infection are found on zucchini, the area should be sprayed with Carboran, Kefalon or sodium phosphate, diluting them according to the instructions. Processing is carried out once a week.

    To destroy the signs of the disease on eggplants, you can use a solution of soda ash at the rate of 25 g per 5 liters of heated water or any modern fungicide. It is required to carry out 4 or 5 treatments every 10 days.

    Peeling strawberries

    With this disease, a white coating appears on the underside of the leaves on strawberries. Gradually they curl up and acquire a bronze hue. Powdery mildew most severely affects the central part of the leaves and mustache. Berries in the presence of a fungus acquire the smell of mold and become covered with a white coating.

    To prevent infection, strawberries need to be thinned and planted in time. For treatment, the bushes must be treated with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. After flowering or harvesting, Bayleton or Switch preparations can be used according to the instructions provided. Processing affects not only upper part leaves, but also the bottom.

    How to cure flowers from powdery mildew

    A fungal disease affects not only vegetables or berries, flowers can also suffer from it. In the middle of summer, a whitish coating can be seen on phlox. In this case, all infected parts must be cut off, severely damaged plants must be completely destroyed. The remaining copies should be treated with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. For the prevention of flower beds, it is necessary to mulch with peat or humus. In early spring, in order to prevent the disease, 3 treatments of phlox with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid should be carried out with an interval of 14 days.

    To prevent the development of powdery mildew on roses, the ground around the bushes should be cleared of weeds and loosened in time. In the autumn after the sanitary pruning all plant remains must be burned, and the soil dug up. At the first sign of illness, the bushes should be treated with Fitosporin-M, Maxim or Fundazol. In spring and autumn, you can use the following solution:

    • 10 liters of water;
    • 15 g of copper oxychloride;
    • 50 g of soda ash;
    • 300 g of green soap.

    To combat signs of illness on petunias, all infected parts of the flower are first removed and burned. After that, drugs such as "Soon", "Topaz" or "Previkur" are used. When a fungal infection appears on flowers grown in pots or containers, it is advisable to change the top layer of soil to soil that has been treated with Fitosporin-M.

    On violets and violas, the disease spreads to buds, foliage and stems. This usually happens due to heavy dew or when the soil is oversaturated with nitrogen. For treatment, it is necessary to use a solution of soda ash with the addition of soap or modern facilities- "Morestan", "Kuprozan", "Tsineb" or "Topsin-M".

    Folk remedies against fungus

    On the initial stage disease or as a preventive measure, treatment with folk remedies gives very good results. If the pathology is in an advanced stage, then it will not be possible to completely get rid of the fungus on plants by such methods.

    Among the most famous folk remedies the following can be distinguished:

    Name Cooking How to apply
    Soda ash and soap solution5 liters of hot water; 25 g of soda ash; 5 g liquid soap. Dissolve drugs in waterCool the solution, spray the plant and the topsoil. Processing is carried out every 7 days 2-3 times
    Copper soap solutionDilute 5 g of copper sulfate in 250 g of hot water. In another bowl, dissolve 50 g of soap in 5 liters of water. Carefully pour the first composition into the second, stirring constantly.The resulting emulsion is sprayed on infected plants. In total, 2-3 procedures are performed with an interval of 1 week
    Soda-soap solutionDilute in 4 liters of water 0.5 tsp. liquid soap and 1 tbsp. l. baking sodaSpray the plants with the solution. Carry out 2-3 procedures with an interval of 1 week
    Potassium permanganate solutionDissolve in 10 liters of water 2.5 g of potassium permanganateSpray the plants with the prepared solution. Perform 2-3 treatments every 5 days
    Serum solutionDilute whey with water in a ratio of 1:10Upon contact with the plant, the serum forms a film that makes it difficult for the fungal colony to breathe. The plant receives additional nutrition during this treatment. Spraying with a whey solution is carried out only in dry weather. For treatment, 3 treatments are required after 3 days
    Horsetail herb decoction100 g of fresh grass pour 1 liter of water per day. Then boil for 2 hours, cool and dilute with water in an amount of 1:5For prevention, spraying is carried out regularly - in spring and summer. For treatment at the initial stage, 3-4 treatments are carried out every 5 days
    mustard solutionStir in 10 liters of hot water 2 tbsp. l. mustard powderThe cooled solution is sprayed or watered plants
    Ash-soap solution1 kg of ash is mixed in 10 liters of warm water and infused for 3 to 7 days, shaking occasionally. Then the liquid is poured into a clean dish, leaving the ash suspension in the bucket. Add a small amount of soapThe resulting solution is sprayed with plants every 3 days. The remaining ash suspension is diluted with 10 liters of water and the bushes are watered.
    Infusion of cow dungDecayed manure is mixed with water in a ratio of 1:3. insist 3 daysThe resulting infusion is diluted in half with water and sprayed on the plants.
    Garlic infusionGrind 25 g of garlic and pour 1 liter of water. Insist 1 dayAfter straining the solution, spray the bushes

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects a huge number of ornamental, vegetable, fruit and berry plants.

The most common pathogens - fungi of the species Podosphaera fuliginea and Erysiphe cichoracearum - are indiscriminate, they affect a wide range of plants: melons and gourds most often suffer from horticultural crops: cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, melons, watermelons; berry bushes: gooseberries, currants, are affected fruit trees, as well as berries.

There are also specific pathogens that are characteristic of specific plants, for example, the causative agent of powdery mildew of grapes is the species Oidium tuckeri. Therefore, powdery mildew on grapes is called: Oidium.

Garden flowers are very susceptible to the sphere library, sometimes with a cut from a store or garden, powdery mildew also gets on indoor flowers.

Symptoms

Powdery mildew is easy to identify, as it has quite characteristic symptoms. It begins with the appearance of small white spots on the upper side of the leaf. Gradually, the spots increase and cover the entire leaf as a whole, moving to the entire aerial part of the plant. As the disease progresses, the spots become larger, denser and whiter: the bushes look like they have been drenched. lime mortar. And upon closer inspection, the leaves seem to be covered thinnest layer cotton wool or cobwebs is a white mycelium of a fungus, consisting of numerous conidia collected in chains.

At fruit plants the growth of the bush is disturbed, the wood on the growing shoots does not ripen, as a result, the plants suffer greatly from frost, especially for grapes. In addition, the sphere library very quickly moves from leaves to ovaries and fruits, you can be left completely without a crop, since berries and fruits affected by white bloom are unsuitable for food.

With vegetables, the situation is more complicated - since tropical plants spend a huge amount nutrients on the growth and formation of fruits, very often they simply cannot cope with the infection and die. Powdery mildew seriously threatens cucumbers and tomatoes.

Where does powdery mildew come from

Spheroteca pathogens reproduce both sexually and asexually.

  1. Asexual reproduction occurs with the help of conidia - these are motionless spores, so named from the Greek konia - dust and eidos - view. It is the chains of conidia that we see on the leaves of infected plants in the form white plaque, they easily break away from each other and are carried by the wind for a decent distance. So, throughout the summer season, new shoots and plants are regularly re-infected.
  2. Sexual reproduction is carried out through spore-bearing structures - cleistothecia. This fruiting body of the fungus is composed of very densely intertwined hyphae and can contain millions of spore sacs, each typically containing four to eight ascospores. Cleistothecia hibernate on fallen leaves, and in spring the ascospores mature, are released and give rise to a new focus of infection.

At the moment when cleistothecia are formed, the plaque on the leaves turns from white to gray, then brown - the fruiting bodies themselves (cleistothecia) themselves are brown or black in color, and the dimensions do not exceed 0.2 mm.

Conditions for the development of powdery mildew

The incubation period with favorable factors for powdery mildew is 5 to 10 days, depending on the temperature. For example, at a temperature of about +15°C, the period from the onset of infection to the formation of conidia is about five days.

The favorable temperature for the formation of conidia is from +5°C to +28°C, but mass development occurs at +20°C. Contributes to the disease relative humidity of 60-80% in the absence of precipitation. Directly during rains, the spread of the disease is inhibited - colonies of conidia remain on the leaves, but when the precipitation stops, the soil evaporates moisture for a long time, and the pathogen develops rapidly.

Therefore, it is after heavy rains that the development of the sphere library occurs rapidly, in 2-3 days a gooseberry bush can become covered with a white coating.

The denser the planting of seedlings, flowers, vegetables, tree crowns, the higher the air humidity, the less wind movement and the stronger local infection occurs within the garden plot.

What contributes to the rapid development of powdery mildew

Infection occurs most rapidly when alternating warm, dry days and rains, then humidity does not fall below 60%. Although infection can occur even at a relative humidity of about 50%.

Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer or weather, favoring the conversion of nitrogen into an assimilable form, enhance the development of fungal diseases (oidium, rust, septoria, etc.). Excess means more than 0.6 kg active ingredient for 1 hundred.

The conditions required for spore maturation differ between different types pathogens of powdery mildew, for example, with powdery mildew of grapes (Oidium), mycelium grows better at 25–30 ° C, i.e. the hotter the weather, the faster the vineyards are affected.

Young leaves are most susceptible to damage by the sphere library - within 16-20 days after deployment.

Powdery mildew prevention

If powdery mildew has already been seen on your garden plot, in early spring, as soon as fruit bushes leaves begin to unfold, spray the bushes with Topaz or Vectra (their action is aimed specifically at powdery mold). After 2 weeks, repeat the spraying of the leaves and the resulting ovaries. The third spraying will be after harvest.

Observe general rules prevention:

  • Destroy infected plant debris by burning all leaves and shoots that show signs of the disease.
  • Weed weeds, many are prone to infection.
  • Observe crop rotation, do not re-plant crops susceptible to powdery mildew in the same place.
  • Purchase seedlings and seeds of plants that are genetically resistant to diseases.
  • Ensure sufficient air circulation, avoid crowding, thin out seedlings and seedlings.
  • Disinfect the tools you use for trimming or tying (ribbons and ropes, secateurs, etc.).
  • If you use the principle of sprinkling, then water vegetables and berries in the morning so that the plants have the opportunity to dry out during the day. Even better, choose a system drip irrigation This will help keep the leaves dry.
  • Do not overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, but apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers regularly.

Powdery mildew serum

Whey works best as a preventative rather than a cure, and should be used if you notice infected plants, trees or weeds somewhere near your site. Susceptible crops need to be protected: gooseberries, currants, roses, etc.

There is no difference between what to spray - milk or whey (backflow) - only in price, both products contain milk proteins, and we need them.

How exactly the whey works against the fungus, no one knows for sure, it is assumed that milk proteins have an antiseptic effect when exposed to sunlight. Therefore, the treatment with milk and whey is carried out not in the evening, but at 10-11 in the morning in sunny weather. Moisten both sides of the leaves with a solution of milk until it flows to the ground.

How to dilute whey with water against powdery mildew: for 1 part of milk (whey), we take 2-3 parts of water. The solution is sprayed on the leaves of plants every 10-14 days. If there is a desire - it is possible more often - once a week.

  • Sometimes you can find a recipe for powdery mildew, where reverse, whey, sour milk or kefir (yogurt) are used in a dilution of 1:10 with cold water. Believe me - it does not work, too weak concentration! We breed 1:2 or 1:3, and repeat every week.

Powdery mildew ash

Good prevention of the sphere library, i.e. spraying before the symptoms of the disease appear - ash treatment. To do this, take 1 kg of clean wood ash, sifted from debris, and pour 10 liters of water. Leave the solution to infuse for 3-5 days, stir occasionally. Add a couple of tablespoons of grated soap. Strain the solution through a thin cotton cloth into the sprayer so as not to clog the sprayer.

Powdery mildew - control measures

If powdery mildew has already cleared up on fruit and berry bushes, flowers or vegetables, not only general tricks agricultural techniques, such as loosening and thinning, but also the use of various fungicides or chemicals. And even at this stage it may already be too late, for example, in berry fields with clearly pronounced signs diseases, it is too late to apply chemicals, because poisons remain in fruits for up to 20-30 days. On grapes, you need to start processing from powdery mildew at the very beginning of the growing season, when the shoots have formed only 3-5 leaves.

Consider the most common methods of treatment.

Powdery mildew iodine

We take medical iodine, measure out with a syringe 10 ml and dissolve in 10 liters of water. We thoroughly moisten the leaves of infected plants with this solution.

On roses, a more concentrated solution can be used: 20 ml alcohol tincture iodine per 7 liters of water.

If you do not have a syringe to measure out, count as drops, for example, to treat powdery mildew cucumbers, 30 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water. But since cucumbers do not tend to retain moisture on the leaves, you need to add an adhesive: a couple of tablespoons of grated laundry soap or green potash.

Fitosporin-M from powdery mildew

How to breed:

  • Fitosporin-M powder - 1 g per 1 liter of water or 10 g per 10 liters of water
  • Fitosporin-M liquid - 0.6 ml per 1 liter of water or 6 g per 10 liters of water 20 drops per 200 ml of water.
  • Fitosporin-M paste, how to breed, read

Mouthwash

In America, in gardening centers, it is recommended to use a universal ethanol-based mouthwash (antibacterial) from the sphere library. We can see similar ones on sale, for example, "Forest Balsam". Jeff Gillman, director botanical garden at the University of North Carolina, the author of books on plants ("Organic Gardening") claims that this recipe for powdery mildew works effectively: one part mouthwash and three parts water. True, he warns that such a solution should be used with caution - it can damage young, just unfolded leaves. Therefore, it is better to use commercial fungicides.

Our compatriot, the famous gardener Galina Kizima, advises: it is important to carry out preventive spraying of the garden in the first half of summer. According to her recommendations, we do the following:

  1. We take a bottle of 1.5 liters, pour 500 ml of water.
  2. We throw 2-3 grains of the drug into the bottle healthy garden and 2-3 grains of Ecoberin.
  3. Close the lid and shake the bottle vigorously until the grains dissolve.
  4. Add water to a volume of 1 liter.
  5. Add 6 drops of Zircon, 4 drops of Cytovit, 8 drops to the solution.

This solution must be sprayed fruit bushes and plants, vegetable seedlings, young trees. For powdery mildew, spray as soon as the first leaves open, then after flowering and after harvest.

Galina Alexandrovna calls this cocktail protective against a complex of diseases and pests.

Naturally, for suburban area you need to prepare a large volume of solution, it is better to prepare in small batches, or count for 5 liters of water. Do not store the solution! Do not spray in the sun, spray in cloudy weather or in the evening.

Powdery mildew fungicides

Copper soap solution: 20-30 g of copper sulfate and 200-300 g of soap per 10 liters of water. To prepare copper sulphate and soap separately, dissolve in a small amount of hot water, then pour the copper sulphate solution in a thin stream into the soap solution, with constant stirring. Strain, spray.

Copper soda solution: Dilute 50 g of soda ash and 200 g of soap (household, tar) in 2 liters of hot water. Separately, dilute 10 g of copper sulfate in a glass of water, pour in a thin stream into a solution of soda and soap. Add water to 10 liters of solution volume. Stir, strain, spray.

From effective fungicides against powdery mildew, you can choose: bayleton, but, quadris, rayok, scor, tilt, topaz, topsin, thiovit jet, hom, oxychom, etc. Some of the drugs are available in small packaging for personal household plots, some can only be obtained in collective purchases, because they are sold for Agriculture in large containers (quadris, bravo, bayleton, etc.)

  • Agrolekar, Chistoflor, Prognoz - contain propiconazole, dilute 10 ml per 10 liters of water, maximum 3 treatments: spraying at the beginning of the growing season, before flowering and after harvesting.
  • Rayok, Chistotsvet contain difenoconazole, we dilute 2 g per 10 liters of water, a maximum of 4 treatments: the first - along the green cone, the rest - after 12-14 days. For flowers and ornamental plants and shrubs, dilute 2 ml per 5 liters of water.
  • , contains penconazole, we dilute 6-8 g per 10 liters of water, no more than 4 treatments, the waiting period is 20 days.
  • Vectra, contains bromuconazole, we dilute 3 mg per 10 l, only 3 treatments: the first - after flowering, the second - after 12-15 days, the third - after harvesting, do not spray during flowering!
  • Alirin and Gamair, dilute 2 tablets per 1 liter of water.

The consumption of the working solution is up to 2 liters per bush of currant, gooseberry or young fruit tree 5-6 years old, up to 5 liters per large fruit-bearing tree. When spraying grapes, the fungicide consumption is 10-15 liters per hundred square meters.

It is not recommended to use fungicides based on the same active ingredient more than three times, although some manufacturers recommend four times. Stop all fungicide treatments 20 days before harvest!

Video: treatment of gooseberries with iodine from powdery mildew

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