How to spud roses. How to protect a rose bush from frost: preparing flowers for winter

The rules for sheltering roses for the winter are repeated year after year, and yet, gardeners continue to make mistakes. In particular, it is too early to cover roses for the winter. Therefore, we decided to raise this topic again.

TERMS OF ROSE SHELTER

Many wonder why the literature on horticulture does not give at least an approximate date for the shelter of roses. It just doesn't exist! The weather is now so changeable that it is pointless to give even approximate dates.

In recent years, autumn has been very protracted several times: frosts did not come for a long time. In these cases, roses were covered as early as December! Therefore, every year you need to be guided by the weather.

Roses are covered after stable frosts of -5-7C are established. Do not be afraid of the first frosts, they will not damage the roses. Moreover, at low sub-zero temperatures, roses harden.

Don't think that roses will go to sleep as soon as you cover them. They will also live under cover, but now in darkness. Only with the onset of persistent cold life processes slow down and the roses go to sleep. Instead of getting a good night's sleep, the roses are simply exhausted!

Experienced gardeners cover roses in two stages. At first, light cover (photo 2, 4) and only with the onset negative temperatures finally insulated for the winter (photo 3, 5).

Those who covered the roses in mid-October (and even with foil!), Made a big mistake. Plants are living beings. They need light, just like you and me. Without light, roses weaken, are more easily affected by diseases and, as a result, hibernate worse.

DO YOU HAVE TO PRINT THE ROSES?

Professional rose growers urge that (if possible) do not prune roses in the fall. Open wounds after pruning are the way to go for any fungal infections. If the stems can be bent, it is better to do without pruning.

Some gardeners have adapted to bend even tall rose bushes (up to 1.5 meters). To do this, they dig up the root from the side of the bush where the stems will be inclined. In the spring, fertile soil is poured to the root, and it quickly recovers.

If you do not like this method, and the shoots are too long, then cut them off (to the size of the shelter). Coat all cuts on the stems garden pitch.

You can also remove red, very young shoots. In winter, they will die anyway, and we don’t need a source of rot under cover. In thick new shoots, you can leave the lower part (2-3 buds). Perhaps they will be saved.

Climbing roses do not cut at all or remove only old and diseased shoots. Such stems do not bend well, and in summer they bloom worse. By removing them, we facilitate the task of shelter and give room for the growth of new shoots.

But it is better to cut the leaves. On them dark spots- signs of fungal diseases. The leaves have now fallen off. They need to be collected from under the bush.

Before shelter, treat the bush with a fungicide (HOM preparations, Bordeaux mixture).

HOW TO COVER ROSES?

Many years of practice and communication with gardeners show that The best way shelters are spruce branches and a double layer of spunbond. There was a case when they forgot to cover one rose and remembered about it when it was already snowing. There was no spruce at hand, they covered it only with spunbond. Rosa did great! It was Flammentanz.

Why the pawpaw? It provides an air gap between the shelter and the ground. Under the weight of snow, the spunbond strongly presses down the rose, and less and less air remains there. When there is little air, the plants begin to warm up. In addition, rose stems can break. Lapnik takes on the snow load.

If there is nowhere to take pine branches or you do not want to do this, any branches from pruning shrubs will do. They are stuck around the rose at an angle and make something like a hut. Spunbond is covered from above and pressed with stones.

So cover any roses. But goofy stems are very flexible. When you untie them from the support and try to bend them down, they strive to rise again. At the same time, they pull out the arcs with which they were pressed.

To make it easier for yourself, temporarily press down the stems with boards (photo 2). Then put the arcs, sticking them well into the ground. After that, the boards can be put on top of the arcs, and when the shoots get used, the boards can simply be removed (extra weight is not needed).

Where to get arcs? You can buy special plastic or metal ones that are sold at garden centers. You can cut arcs from willow or hazel branches.

Great option - polypropylene pipes for 3/4" water. They are good because they do not deteriorate from frost, like plastic arcs for a greenhouse. Such pipes can simply be stuck into loose earth. And if the rose is tilted on the lawn, then first you need to stick thin pegs and put arcs from the tube on them.

WHAT SHOULD NOT COVER ROSES?

1. Film. Think 10 times before covering with foil. On warm days in autumn and April, when the snow melts, condensation accumulates under it. Plants support. Excess moisture is the most common cause death of roses.

Some gardeners say they always use film. But this is possible if the owners are often in the garden and have the opportunity to ventilate the shelter on warm days. Before the onset of stable cold weather, an outlet must be left in the shelter. This is easy to do in the fall. But in April, there is a dense and hard crust around the film. It is difficult to open it. Another thing is spunbond: as soon as the snow melts from it, spunbond begins to breathe.

2. Plastic bucket or basin. In fact, this is the same film - plastic does not let air through. The volume of air that is under the bucket or basin will be very saturated with moisture vapor, which will again lead to warming up.

3. Tops of garden flowers. Sometimes roses are covered with stems of marigolds, zinnias, phlox, gelenium and other flowers. You can't do this! The leaves begin to rot and infect the roses.

4. sawdust. According to the experience of past years, sawdust strongly absorbs moisture from the soil. Because of this, they freeze in the winter, and thaw for a long time in the spring. And again the same problem - warming up the root collar.

IS IT NEEDED TO GRIND THE STALMS OF ROSES?

There are two opinions about this approach. Some gardeners do this every year, others believe that hilling can damage. In my practice, there was a case when, in a protracted spring, roses were propped up, which were piled up with earth from below. Bushes without hilling overwintered perfectly. If hilling is used, then do it just before the shelter. Use dry land (store it in a shed). On the medium bush roses need 1-2 buckets of earth (just pour into the center of the bush).

PROTECTION OF ROSES FROM RODENTS

Under the shelter of roses and grapes, mice like to settle. Digging their moves, rodents damage the roots. In the spring, roses have to be cast.

Try to drive the mice away from the shelter. Put inside thorny branches (rose hips, gooseberries, villus), thorny fruits of burdock or thistle.

And, of course, poisoned rodent baits. On sale there are briquettes that are not afraid of precipitation. Grain baits can be poured into a plastic bottle cut off on both sides. Such a bottle should be placed inside the shelter, and the mice will enter it, as if into a tunnel.

SUMMING UP

To make sure you find your roses alive in the spring, don't cover them early, don't use foil, spray the bushes for disease.

If you follow these rules, roses will please with their beauty and abundant flowering.

N. Petrenko, Ch. editor

Any grower takes care of every rose bush growing in his garden. But it is especially important for our climate to properly cover roses from winter frosts. This task will not always be easy, since each climatic region has its own characteristics, winter often presents temperature changes and is not always rich in snowfalls. Covering roses for the winter, you need to provide for any weather surprises.

When do you cover a rose for the winter

Roses grown in most of Russia need to be covered for the winter. But the exact time when the rose must be completely closed from cold air cannot be specified. This plant tolerates small frosts well, but excessive overheating can cause the death of the bush. It is recommended to cover rose bush immediately when light frosts (about 5 ° C) are established.

If you do not have the opportunity to constantly monitor the change in temperature, shelter can be carried out in stages. Digging in the ground first root system, the bush can be covered with a thin cloth, and more thoroughly cover the rose later.

The initial stage of preparing a rose for wintering is a gradual transition to a state of rest

In order for the plant to better prepare for the dormant period, it is necessary to stop performing those actions that stimulate it to grow:

• in no case should fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers be allowed, as they contribute to the growth of green mass; you can feed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers or their natural equivalents (wood ash);
• remove weeds around the rose bush, but do not cultivate the soil, as it also encourages the plant to develop;
• gradually reduce watering, with a large amount of precipitation, you can make diversion grooves or even a canopy.

Such work in warm temperate climate perform from the beginning of September, in regions with a shorter summer - from mid-August.

The second stage: protecting the rose from the development of diseases under the covering material

Any rose shelter design cannot fully guarantee the absence of at least a slight overheating. And high temperature and humidity contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of prevention:

• the source of infection is the leaves, especially the lower ones; they must be carefully cut; for roses with long branches, the removal of leaves is carried out in several stages, starting from the bottom;
• young shoots must be removed, since they will not be able to overwinter, and if they die, they will become a source of infection;
• the bush and the ground around it are sprayed with a fungicide: Bordeaux mixture or a three percent solution of copper sulfate.

Pruning of leaves and spraying is carried out before hilling the rose bush for the winter during the period when the first frosts have just begun.

Covering the root system with earth and pruning the rose bush

Hilling roses before wintering is mandatory in all regions. The simplest and most effective material for this is ordinary earth. But it’s better if you don’t rake the bush, but bring it from the garden. The mound around the plant should be at least thirty centimeters from the vaccination site. From above, the soil can be covered with spruce branches.

The use of sawdust or humus during hilling is not desirable, as this can cause overheating of the root system during thaws

Before hilling, you need to trim the branches. How long to cut them depends on the type of rose and the height of your shelter:

• hybrid tea roses are pruned so that, after hilling, 10–15 centimeters of trunks are visible above the mound of the earth; in these species, buds form on young shoots, so it is enough to keep the old trunks healthy at the base of the bush;
• in weaving roses, buds appear only on old (two-year-old and older) shoots, so it is important to leave the branches as long as possible and cover them without fail, so pruning depends on how you make the shelter, but even with very long branches it is not recommended to remove more the third part of the trunk;
• in standard roses, branches are cut only for the purpose of forming a crown; it is imperative to cover the entire bush and trunk and crown;
• park roses are considered hardy and are usually not covered.

Branch cuts after pruning are best treated with Runnet or a special varnish-balm

Simultaneously with pruning, long branches are bent to the ground, the branches are tied and lowered onto a support or insulating material between them and the soil: the same spruce branches, wooden boards.

After bending down the branches of a climbing rose, a frame is installed above it

Although I am not an outstanding gardener, I have been growing rose bushes for over twenty years. And I can tell from own experience that simple hilling hybrid tea roses in our region (Bryansk region), even without shelter with spruce branches, it fully ensures the preservation of bushes. But without such hilling, the rose freezes out. Last years I do not cut branches of roses: what is covered with earth will not freeze, top part at severe frosts dies, and if the winter is warm, it will remain green. In the spring, you only need to remove all the blackened parts of the bush.

Organizing a winter shelter for roses

The main protection of the plant from frost is an air cushion, which is formed between the coating and the stem, therefore, for the effectiveness of your work, you must fulfill the following conditions:

1. The branches should not touch the fabric cover.
2. The fabric material must be dense, at least 200 g/m², in cold regions several layers must be used.
3. The fabric must not be allowed to get wet, otherwise it will freeze through; can be used as water protection wooden shields or other material at hand: plastic film or polycarbonate, but in this case it is necessary to provide vents.
4. In regions with a guaranteed large snow cover, it is enough to bend the branches and cover with a thin material.

Photo gallery: how to make a shelter for roses

Wooden shields will be a strong support for the fabric covering. The frame is made of metal or propylene pipes can be of a wide variety of shapes, but it is better if the entire rose garden is under one shelter. The polycarbonate shelter has good thermal insulation properties and besides, it is quite rigid, you must not forget about its mandatory ventilation. climbing roses from supporting supports, but then you need to make a shelter around them using spruce branches and a fabric cover. Standard roses can be bent to the ground, but it is better to make a vertical shelter

Video: how to cover roses for the winter

Despite the laboriousness of carrying out all the work on proper preparation rosaries for the winter, each grower carefully performs them, because only in this case next year will delight him with the flowering of roses.

Good repeat and repeat again: we do not have roses that would not need shelter for the winter.

You need to cover absolutely all roses. In this article, we will look at a few important aspects this process:

• Do I need to spud the roots of roses.
• Is it necessary to tear off the leaves and process the cuts before wintering the roses.
• How to scare mice away from roses during the winter.
• When to bend the stems.
• Good Examples winter shelters.

Roots - spud or not

There have been discussions on this topic on FORUMHOUSE for years.

Chigsa FORUMHOUSE administrator

This method has both supporters and opponents. Therefore, this event is not mandatory.

Roses spud, making a mound about 30 centimeters high at the base of the bush. For hilling, you can not rake the earth directly from the pink flower bed, so as not to expose the roots of the plant, but bring it from another place. The consolidated opinion of the participants of our portal regarding the composition of the hill: it must be breathable.

Roses are best spudded with a mixture of soil and sand (50/50).

Peat and sawdust get wet and caked, straw - attractive environment for mice.

Actually, hilling is used to preserve during the winter a large number plant buds, because a higher temperature will remain under the hillock than outside, even in a snowless winter. Here are the arguments of supporters and opponents of the hill, we hope they will help you make the right decision:

For hilling	Against hilling
Spudding with earth is the most normal option for preserving roses. Wet hilling is harmful to plants only when heated, in spring, and under a windproof shelter.	If the shoots are under a wet hill in the active sun for more than two weeks, dampening is ensured.
If the composition of the ridge is correct and breathable (if it is not 100% clay, 100% peat, sawdust or sand), the shoots under it always remain.	Hilling with earth leads to frost holes; if the roses are hilled, there are always frost holes after thaws, if they are not hilled, frost holes are microscopic or they are not at all.

Roses are usually spudded in two steps: they are slightly spudded in mid-autumn to protect the bush from autumn frosts, and finally - closer to winter.

Member of our portal with a nickname Nat spuds roses: the site is located in a lowland, and the probability of freezing is quite high. But he spuds the roses along the spruce branches: that is, first he covers the roses with spruce branches, then slightly spuds, then pulls the covering material over the arcs.

Nat

For the first time we tried spruce spruce spruce last year, because. noticed that the roses, in direct contact with the hillock, prey.

It is better not to use the hilling method if you have heavy loamy soils, so as not to increase the likelihood of damping off.

Marina659 FORUMHOUSE member

Don't worry about the bump! In the spring you will rake it as it thaws, and nothing will support it.

Whether to remove leaves, whether to process cuts

If the roses are healthy, then it is not at all necessary to remove the leaves, this will be a procedure from the “give yourself extra work” series; the leaves themselves will wilt and fall beautifully, following the natural cycle. Option: you can cut off only diseased leaves.

If there is some kind of infection on the leaves, then with the smallest frosts it will cease to be viable.

Helga

The whitefly does not bring any harm, and will not survive the winter. Spraying with an insecticide will not bring harm or benefit.

But if you are still worried about this, spray the plants before covering with a 3% solution. iron sulphate.

On the issue of processing slices, the rose growing gurus of our portal are categorical.

Helga

Don't give yourself too much work. You never need to process any sections of roses with anything.

When cutting roses for the winter, it is recommended to cut the cut obliquely, then rainwater will not remain on the cut, but immediately roll to the ground, and the cut will dry out quickly. It is better to cut the branch above the bud, which looks outside the bush, then the future process will grow outside the bush.

sw111 FORUMHOUSE member

Then there is no need to process the slices. They dry up and live.

How to do mouse prophylaxis

For some rodent reason, mice adore roses as much as they love apple trees and grapes, and the thorns won't stop them. During the years of mouse pandemics, the rose garden can suffer very seriously.

GALAS

My whips have been nibbled this year.

An excellent means of prevention was given to the participants of our portal by the famous Russian scientist, breeder Ivan Puchkin: this is ordinary birch tar. Ivan Alexandrovich impregnates pieces of old felt boots with tar and places them next to the plants.

Tar to repel mice is also successfully used by the participants of our portal, the experience is always positive.

MiLeDi Member of FORUMHOUSE

Mice don't like it very much! Of course, this is more time-consuming than throwing poison bait. I have been using tar for 5 years, it is not washed off by rain, the smell under the shelter of roses remains until spring. Under bushes-trees less, but mice also do not like it.

Here is another way to use birch tar (the product is sold in a pharmacy).

1. We hang it on branches, wind it on columns of tape moistened with tar.
2. We lay out pieces of cotton wool soaked in tar in dangerous places of mouse migrations.

When to bend roses

Despite the fact that roses easily tolerate small frosts, and it is recommended to cover them already with slight frosts, it is better not to put off bending down until this time.

Pucha Member of FORUMHOUSE

At a stable -5, the stems will be brittle and may break when laid.

Climbing and standard roses, as well as floribundas, bend down in the middle of autumn until the stems have lost their flexibility.

They bend down for a long time and gradually: they tie the plant by a rope, the second end of the rope is tied to a peg stuck in the ground (barbecue skewer). Once a week, the rose is slowly pulled to the ground by the rope until the distance above the ground is 50 cm. From above, the plant is covered with a double layer of the 60th lutrastil.

Examples of successful winter shelters

The shelter that a member of our portal with the nickname made for his roses ghost73:

• made frames;
• stapled to them three layers of thin spunboard;
• on top of 2/3 covered with a layer of craft paper and geotextile;
• the resulting hut was tied with burlap.

The ends will be closed with spruce branches, which is always enough in the household of a member of our portal: I regularly trim the Christmas trees that I planted near the bathhouse.

FORUMHOUSE members do not approve of felling spruce branches in the forest to cover roses.

A member of our portal has a successful experience of sheltering roses Andrew 61, roses have been wintering under it for 20 years and do not freeze.

At the first stage, a serious preparation of roses for wintering is done.

Andrey 61 Member of FORUMHOUSE

1. I do pruning with the removal of leaves.
2. I put metal arcs from reinforcement F 10.0.
3. Before covering with material, I remove all debris - leaves from fallen trees, etc., then spray or pour Bordeaux mixture over.

Shelter is made of arcs from several layers:

• the first layer of film;
• batting;
• second layer of film.

The edges of the film are pressed with bars or pipe trimmings.

Andrew 61

They overwinter excellently. They will not be able to suffocate if the film lies on the arcs, the height of the arcs in a radius is approximately 0.8 m. Roses breathe freely.

One of the main rules for successful wintering was formulated by the authoritative FORUMHOUSE rose grower with the nickname stefan.

How big square shelter, the more successful wintering. The larger the buffer, the slower the temperature drops and the slower the rise.

Another member of our portal with a nickname prety covers roses with everything at hand: office plastic trash cans, flowerpots, etc.

prety

Under each rose is a handful of ashes and a pile of dry earth from under petunias.

Earth as a heater for roses: advantages and disadvantages

When creating protective winter shelters, garden soil is used as mulch, high bushes with it. However, quite strict requirements are imposed on the “winter” mulch:

• the material should not be moisture-intensive;
• the material should not cake and compact;
• the material must maintain high breathability throughout the winter period.

Garden land does not fully meet these requirements. Under its high layer, it is really well preserved root neck rose bushes. More problems arise with hilled shoots and buds on them. Much here depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and wintering conditions. The main disadvantages of the land, in this case, include the following:

• tendency to strong absorption of moisture and subsequent freezing;
• loss of air permeability and heat-insulating properties during compaction.

When considering whether it is worth spudding roses with earth, it should also be remembered that in winter, plants need to be protected not only from frost, but also from decay, soaking and decay.

Tip #1 Garden soil may contain spores of dangerous microorganisms. Before covering roses with it, it is necessary to treat the soil with fungicides and achieve its microbiological purity.

Hilling roses for the winter with earth: arguments for and against

There are ongoing discussions about the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth among rose growers with great horticultural experience (See also the article ⇒). Opinions are mixed and can be grouped as follows:

Rose growers also pay attention to the fact that the earth should not be in direct contact with the shoots - this increases the risk of their decay.

Rules for the pre-winter hilling of roses with earth

If it is not possible to cover the roses in some other way, pre-winter hilling land must be performed based on the following rules:

In regions where it rains in winter, covering roses with earth is strongly discouraged. Under damp soil, the shoots are guaranteed to die.

Tip #2 If the winters in the region are too severe and frosty, hilling the earth is not enough. An additional construction of an air-dry shelter above the bush will be required.

Topical questions about hilling roses with earth

Question number 1. Do all roses need winter hilling?

Not all. Hilling is required for own-rooted roses - their root system is more sensitive to frost than that of roses grafted onto frost-resistant rootstocks. Hilling is also recommended for shallow planting, when the grafting site is located above the ground surface.

Question number 2. Is it possible to dig up the laid lashes of climbing roses with earth?

You can, but you must follow all the above rules. It is also important to remember that dropping will protect the shoots from frost, but will increase the risk of them withering. Therefore, it is necessary to correctly assess the climatic features of your region and abandon this method if winters are characterized by instability and frequent thaws.

Country cheat sheet No. 8: “When to cover roses for the winter in autumn?”

The October issues of magazines for gardeners and gardeners are literally full of notes on the topic preparing plants for winter : pruning flowers and raspberries, cleaning perennials for storage, whitewashing trees, winter crops… autumn the summer resident has no less worries than in the summer. And if they grow on the site roses- it's time to think about shelter for the winter for them. All important information about when is the best time to cover roses for the winter , we have combined in one article. It turned out to be a very informative country cheat sheet, which, we hope, will be useful to both us and you 😉

1. Preparing roses for winter
2. It's time to cover the roses! Deadlines for Middle lane(including the Moscow region), the Urals and Siberia.
3. Auspicious dates for Lunar calendar for October and November 2018.
4. Fatal errors in the shelter of roses.
5. Features of the shelter of standard roses.
6. How to cover roses if only stumps were left during pruning.

Preparing roses for winter

top dressing

From mid-August, it is necessary to finish feeding roses with nitrogen fertilizers, reduce or completely stop watering (depending on the weather). Starting from August, only phosphorus-potassium supplements are used in the rose garden. In autumn, on the eve of wintering, roses need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. They help to restrain growth, contribute to the maturation of lignification of wood (lignification of shoots) and increase cold resistance. Fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus can be applied from the end of August. Suitable superphosphate, potassium sulfate, ash, as well as special complex "autumn" top dressing. If the autumn turned out to be long and warm, it is not too late to do the final feeding in the 2nd decade of October (if you didn’t have time in September). In addition, in the second mid-September, it is necessary to stop digging and loosening the soil between the bushes, their formation, so as not to cause the development of shoots from dormant buds.

The scheme of strengthening feeding of roses in preparation for winter:

1. The first top dressing is made in mid-August. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 25 g of superphosphate, 10 g of potassium sulfate, 2.5 g boric acid. The solution is applied under the root at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.
2. The second feeding is done in September. Dissolve in 10 liters of water: 15 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium sulfate. Or you can use the complex "Autumn" mineral fertilizer.

* For foliar top dressing, the dosage is reduced by 3 times.

Pruning shoots

More recently, flower growers were of the opinion that in autumn rose bushes should certainly be cut, leaving stumps of about 30 cm, with 5-7 buds on the shoot. Now another technique is common: in the fall, the branches are bent to the ground, securely fixing them, and then covered for the winter. Pruning is carried out in a sparing mode, as needed: dry, diseased and very old, inflexible branches that prevent shelter, as well as unripe shoots of wen are cut out. It is believed that autumn pruning robs the plant of strength, requires huge costs for their restoration. Bushes uncut in autumn endure winter better, and in spring they begin to grow faster and bloom earlier.

In autumn, it is advisable to cut branches if they interfere with shelter and can break when trying to bend them down. Pruning is done only to the height of the shelter, adjusted for the variety (there is a difference in pruning climbing, hybrid tea roses, etc.).

It is better to prune roses in the middle - end of October., until the frosts descended, but the main heat is already behind. You should not rush with pruning, otherwise the buds will wake up, and the shoots will start growing again. It is useful to treat cuts on thick branches with garden pitch, and thin ones with brilliant green.

The main pruning is carried out in the spring, according to the results of wintering, after the removal of shelters,

Leaf pruning

Until late autumn, when it is time to prepare shelters, some varieties of roses are green and even bloom. If you leave everything as it is, during the winter, most likely, they will rot (and this will adversely affect the health of the entire plant).

Late October - early November(already after the first frost) the leaves must be removed, leaving no petioles. At the same time, the remaining flowers, ovaries and unripe shoots are cut off. Pruning is conveniently done with a small pruner or scissors. You should start from the bottom of the branches, gradually moving towards the tops.

If there is a lot of foliage and its removal becomes too time-consuming, you can get by with a little:

• Before shelter, treat the bushes with any copper-containing fungicide, following the recommendations on the package.
• Free from the leaves at least the base of the branches so that the bush is well ventilated, and then spray with any antifungal drug(with copper in the composition) or a 3% solution of iron sulfate.

Treatment before shelter

After gentle pruning and removal of leaves, bushes are usually treated with fungicide solutions to prevent the spread of rot. In addition to the above funds (copper content preparations, iron sulfate), it is recommended to use a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Should roses be planted for the winter?

The question is again controversial, here rose growers have two opinions:

• Hilling rose bushes will protect them in frosty, snowless winters. In this case, the hill will be useful.
• The base of the hilled bushes rots, so the hill will only do harm.

Conclusion: everyone chooses for himself whether to spud or not.

It is definitely worth abandoning hilling if the site itself is damp or the autumn turned out to be rainy, and the soil turned out to be oversaturated with moisture. In this case, hilling even a pre-prepared dry soil mixture will be redundant. It is advisable to carry out an okuchka if the autumn turned out to be dry, slightly frosty. Suitable option mixtures for hilling roses for the winter: dry and loose ripened compost with sand and peat. Do not use clean peat and sand - they gain moisture, and sawdust - rot.

Important! Standard roses need hilling in a mandatory order (about the features of their shelter - later in the text).

Shelter of roses for the winter: Optimal timing

After pre-training, with the onset of favorable weather, roses are ready for shelter for the winter! Question: when does this readiness come? So, the sources we analyzed say:

- cover roses you can start in the first decade of October (newspaper "AiF. In the country" ). While the weather is still warm enough, the shoots remain plastic, bend more easily (on frosty days, the shoots become brittle and brittle). The branches are bent and fixed in a horizontal position with metal pegs. Thick branches can be bent down gradually, in several steps. At the same time, shelter frames are being installed. Finally, roses cover in late October - early November, after the onset of persistent cold weather (and even light frosts), but before snowfall. At the final stage, the installed frames are covered with spunbond. Important! It is impossible to lay roses directly on the ground: there should be a gap between the surface of the soil and the shoots for ventilation, and one and a half liter plastic bottles or thick foam are placed as a “gasket”.

- Do not rush to cover ( magazine "Flower"). Roses should be thoroughly insulated on frozen ground, and it is better to prepare for this in advance - to start bend branches before frost (from mid-September). Roses are quite cold-resistant and easily endure light autumn frosts without shelter. Let the rains pass and begin to set sub-zero temperatures- then you can finally cover the roses with non-woven materials.

— Warm shelters for roses, it must be installed after the autumn frosts grab the ground or shortly before this moment - no earlier than November ("Homestead newspaper" ). A hasty shelter (at temperatures from zero and above) is fraught with the fact that the plants will begin to rot, the humidity rises, which creates favorable conditions for the development of fungal infections.

These terms can be applied both for the Middle Strip (including the Moscow region), and for the Urals and Siberia, since it is more worth relying on weather, weather forecast, temperature indicators.

Favorable days according to the lunar calendar-2018

In October In 2018, astrologers recommend pruning and sheltering roses:

• 14th, 19th, 22nd, 27th, 28th and 31st.

According to the calendar from the magazine "Plant farming".

Not auspicious days for trimming in October:

• October 9, 17, 18, 19, 24 (days of New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

In November 2018 favorable days for sheltering roses for the winter:

• 1, 3, 17, 18, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 November.

Unfavorable days for pruning in November:

• November 7, 14, 15, 23 (days of New Moon, Full Moon, Moon in the sign of Aquarius).

According to the calendar from the magazine "My Favorite Dacha".

7 mistakes in preparing roses for winter

1. Early cover. If you thoroughly cover the roses at temperatures above zero, there is a great danger that the bushes will soak and become easy prey for fungal infections. In early autumn - from mid-September - until the branches are frozen and bend well, you can begin to bend them to the ground. And it is better to start warming on frozen soil, not earlier than the end of October.

2. Bend branches in frosty weather can be dangerous. Frosts make the shoots brittle and brittle. The bark may crack, resulting in wounds that will become a gateway for different kind infections. It is recommended to start bending the branches in mid-September, and it is better to do it gradually, fixing the horizontal slope with metal pegs. It is convenient to use barbecue skewers for this - they "like clockwork" enter the ground, and it is easy to tie twine to the tip.

3. Early pruning of unripened shoots, while it is still warm, stimulates the active formation of new ones. It turns out monkey work. It is advised to prune unripened shoots (as well as leaves and remaining ovaries) only after the first frost (usually in the 3rd decade of October). In general, flower growers today agree that in the fall it is not necessary to carry out fork pruning; it is enough to remove old and diseased branches, and also selectively shorten them if they are difficult to cover.

4. Garter of roses with ropes from natural materials dangerous because during the winter it accumulates moisture and rots. Polypropylene twine is more suitable for this.

5. Sending roses under cover, you can not leave leaves on them. They will rot, the bushes will not be ventilated - all this opens the way for infections. In the second half of October, the leaves are cut with secateurs or, gently running hands in gardening gloves along the trunk, shake off the foliage. Attention! Rose leaves cannot be used in a shelter, they must certainly be removed from under the bush.

6. It is not worth lowering branches of roses on bare ground or film. It is desirable that it be dry under the branches. Bending down the shoots in front of the shelter, you can build a "platform" under them from plastic bottles or foam.

7. Ruberoid or polyethylene film not very good as a covering material. Metal tanks and buckets are also better not to use. It is best to cover roses for the winter with dense lutrasil or spunbond, throwing them over a frame made of metal rods or chain-link mesh. It turns out a cozy mini-greenhouse.

How to cover roses if you had to cut them short in the fall

In the event that it was necessary to carry out a short pruning in the fall (in the old fashioned way), leaving stumps 30-40 cm high, it is advised to do this:

1. After pruning (usually after the first frost, in the first decade of October), treat the bushes with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
2. Spud plantings with a dry soil mixture to a height of 20-25 cm, covering the horse's neck.
3. Leave the roses to harden until the beginning of November.
4. In the first decade of November, in dry weather, you can start warming. You do not need to bend anything, because the roses are cut short.

Ways to cover cut roses:

- The easiest way to cover roses cut in autumn is with spruce branches with a layer of at least 10-15 cm.

- The air-dry method of shelter is more often used (it is the most reliable): Build a frame over the bushes and cover it with hydro-thermal insulation material.

- Separate bushes can be insulated in this way: tie the branches of the bush together, surround it with a chain-link mesh in the form of a fence (diameter 30-50 cm). Fill the space between the bush and the mesh with soil mixture. Wrap the structure on top with spunbond in 2 layers. Straw, manure, hay moss are not suitable as insulation materials, as they absorb moisture and can provoke decay.

Features of the shelter of a standard rose

The main difficulty is to correctly determine the side of the slope, because the trunk at the grafting site is easy to break. An interesting comparison is given in an article on the shelter of standard roses in the Dacha newspaper:

• You need to imagine that the fingers in a clenched fist are a bump at the site of vaccination, and the trunk is a thumb. trunk, like thumb hands, should easily lie on the bump. The scheme clearly conveys this essence:

Procedure

1. A small hole is dug around the trunk, very carefully so as not to hurt the root system.
2. The trunk is bent gradually, allowing it to get used to the new position. They bent - waited a couple of days, and so on, until the plant takes a horizontal position.
3. The hole is dug in, the base is covered with a dry soil mixture.
4. It is useful to put something hard under the barrel (a log or a plastic bottle) as a support for the barrel so that it does not break under the weight of snow.
5. The horizontal position is fixed with polypropylene twine, tying it to a metal peg.
6. Under the crown standard rose and you can put spruce branches or dry oak leaves on it.
7. It would be useful to spray the plants with a solution of iron sulfate and put poison inside the shelter for mice who like to visit pink shelters in winter and feast on plantings.
8. At the end they arrange air dry shelter for the whole plant as a whole, warming the stem as well. A dense lutrasil or spunbond is thrown on top. It is better to refuse shelter with a film or roofing material.
9. If there is little snow in winter, it must be additionally thrown. The main insulation for roses is snow.

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