The mounted boiler does not heat hot water well. Boiler does not heat hot water

Good evening everyone! After 4 months of operation of the Baksi double-circuit gas boiler, he stopped heating hot water. Why? What is the reason? I assume that the boiler is running on untreated water and, perhaps, "overgrown" with scale or rust. What do you advise the Lord?

NURLAN_DRAGON 2015.06.21 06:21 0

User responses:
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The most common cause of boiler breakdowns is scale. Most likely, your boiler heat exchanger is clogged with scale and does not heat up. Solution - install special. filters. For example, magnetic or electromagnetic. They are placed in front of boilers and work for many years without requiring maintenance. See manufacturers Kema (Moscow) or Aquashield (Ufa). Good luck!

Yes, most likely your double-circuit boiler is covered with scale. That's why he stopped heating hot water! Why? Hard water! What to do? Install filter. For example, ion exchange or electromagnetic.

OBAPATEH 2015.06.21 12:26 0

User responses:
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Vaillant and Baksi boilers are particularly reliable and safe. Breakdowns of such complex equipment must be eliminated by the master. But, minor malfunctions can be removed on your own if you have a basic level of knowledge about the design of heating and heating gas double-circuit boilers Baxi, Aristan or Nayen. On the display of the Baksi double-circuit gas boiler, most of the faults are indicated. Having a decoding of errors, you can figure out what is the reason for the boiler's failure to heat water. Where to start the search if the water heating in the Baksi or Vaillant double-circuit gas boiler does not work, and the indicator does not show an error, or can it be interpreted differently? The gas boiler does not heat hot water. Why? Cause? Double-circuit boiler Baksi (baxi). If the Vaillant, Baksi, Aristan or Navien double-circuit gas boiler does not heat hot water, the secondary heat exchanger should be checked. It also tends to get dirty quickly. But, fortunately, it is easy to remove, clean and install back. What is the reason? Why is this happening?

One of the problems that can happen when using a double-circuit boiler. The boiler does not heat hot water. The main and most common reason why the boiler does not heat water well is the heat exchanger is clogged.

In this article I will describe how I treat this problem. Thus, you can also get out of the situation if you have a double-circuit boiler with a plate heat exchanger.

I have a well at home and the water is very hard, so there are always problems with hot water, so I use citric acid to fix the situation.

The task is this. How to deliver this acid to the inside of the heat exchanger with the least effort.

I found such a way. I have a magnetic converter at the entrance to the boiler, which should remove the hardness of the water, but it does not remove it, in my opinion this is a fiction. But for me it is good that it is installed directly at the entrance to the boiler. You can see it in the photo below.

It has an American nut on it, unscrewing which you can easily pour citric acid into the inside of the pipe.

But for this you need to turn off the water. Next to the boiler I have a collector. He is in the photo below.

Now all the ducts on it are open and with one easy movement I shut off the water supply to the boiler.

All water is blocked, now you can unscrew the American on the magnetic filter. And do not forget to come up with something, from the flowing water from the boiler, there is not much of it, but it is there. I wound up the rag.

Then I pour citric acid into the inside of the pipe.

I twist the American back and open the tap for supplying tap water to the boiler.

Now it is important to understand when the acid enters the heat exchanger. Since my water tap is located a meter from the boiler, I determine whether the acid has reached the heat exchanger to taste. I just open the faucet in short jerks and taste it, how “sour” went, which means the entire system from the magnetic filter to the faucet is filled with citric acid.

Next, you need to turn off the tap so that your family does not drain all the acid ahead of time.

I refuel the system at night and until the morning I have it acidified. In the morning I open the water supply valve to the boiler and drain all the acid. The water will sizzle, don't be alarmed.

A question may arise, but will the acid heat exchanger not eat through? I poked around on the forum of chemists and came to the conclusion that organic acid (citric refers to it) is harmless to copper.

I use this method as needed. If you don’t like how the boiler heats water or the pressure of hot water has become weak, I take and process the heat exchanger with citric acid.

If you have polypropylene connections to the boiler, and there is no place to fill the acid, then think of something similar, it will not take much time.

Questions about malfunctions of Arderia boilers

Question: On my gas double-circuit boiler Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd, the display shows an AA error (boiling water). You set the temperature, it catches up with it as usual, and then as soon as it drops by a few degrees, it turns on, and so on ad infinitum. It turns out that it turns on every 10 seconds. The pump is running, the filter has been cleaned, all taps are open, the sensor is working. Most likely, the problem is in the 3-way valve. Tell me what
do?

Answer: It is necessary to call the master to reconfigure the boiler, namely, Arderia has a service menu that can be accessed from the control panel, and there it is necessary to increase the setting of the difference between the set temperature and the start temperature.

Question: After 2 years of normal operation, the following things began to happen: when the heating is connected during heating, a sharp increase in pressure occurs (according to the readings of the pointer "pressure gauge") and an emergency discharge of the coolant. What is the problem?

Answer: Most likely - damage to the expansion tank membrane or lack of air (nitrogen) in the air chamber (unless, of course, there are shut-off valves on the tank that "accidentally" closed. It is also possible that the three-way valve is not working.

Question: We installed and connected the Arderia 2.13 gas wall-mounted boiler, which served exactly 2 years without complaints and malfunctions began. Heating works fine. But the hot water doesn't want to get warm. The burner either goes out, then lights up again and the water is barely warm or even cold. And even when the tap is opened, the batteries suddenly start to heat up. Who faced this, tell me what could this mean?

Answer: If barely warm water flows, then the three-way valve switches. As an option, a 2nd heat exchanger on the heating side. That is, if the heating boiler works stably and reaches the nominal value, then no. If the hot water pressure is in order, it is possible that the secondary heat exchanger is clogged along the heating channel. At the request of the hot water supply, the boiler is ignited, goes into nominal value, but the heat is not removed, so the boiler extinguishes the burner. Another option is the hot water temperature sensor is lying.

Question: We installed and connected the Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd wall-mounted boiler. Worked for 4 years. recently everything went offline. Right down to the backlight. Does not go into emergency mode. I removed the board, pulled it out of the casing, there are 2 fuses. But they are whole. What happened and how to be saved? A complete feeling that the food was just gone. Power supply through the stabilizer. The stabilizer is working.

Answer: Change the board, set the DIPs on the new board as on the old one.

Question: We installed and launched the arderia esr 2.20 gas double-circuit boiler. I have a question about how it works. The boiler operates practically without stopping the pump, while the temperature of the coolant drops to the set value after the burner is turned off, and the burner fires again. And so almost without pause. Didn't notice this before. It has also been noticed that when the hot water supply is turned on, very hot water comes out of the tap first, you cannot substitute your hands. Is this a malfunction and how to increase the pause time.

I also wanted to ask about this moment. I tried to regulate the operation of the boiler according to the room temperature.

Boiler not heating water? There is only one reason - scale

I set it to 27 degrees (not comfortable below), the boiler works for a long time, while the coolant heats up to a maximum (80 degrees C), then when it gets hot it turns off.

It can even “fall asleep” for a long time (for half a day or more), although the rooms are already getting cool and it would not hurt to turn on, but I look at the remote control - the temperature shows 27, although there is a feeling that it has fallen much lower. Whether the sensitivity of the remote control is very uncomfortable + -1
degree, or is it some kind of malfunction. Who can say anything about this. The boiler has been in operation for 2 years.

Answer: I can assume that the remote control is poorly located, there is no air circulation around it.

Question: I do not like the mode of operation of the gas boiler Arderia esr 2.20 ffcd when controlled by the temperature of the coolant. I will describe the mode of operation in more detail: Suppose the temperature of the coolant has dropped to the lower limit, at which the gas supply is triggered and heating occurs
coolant.

Moreover, heating occurs for no more than half a minute, while the pump continues to circulate water. During the next half a minute during the circulation of the coolant, it cools down again to the lower limit and the heating is turned on again, and so on practically without pauses. I did not change the values ​​​​of the installation (factory) parameters and do not know how to do it.

The only thing that I checked with the parameters given in the manual, they are the same. Previously, I did not notice such an operating mode, because it was the other way around: at first, for a certain time after the boiler was activated, the coolant circulated without heating, then the heating turned on, the pump continued to circulate for a certain time, then it turned off and there was a pause in its operation, now this pause simply does not exist.

Sometimes during the day, in order not to load the boiler, I turn on the timer mode (but the minimum value there is one hour). I would like to hear your opinion on this operation of the boiler and how to put it in order?

Answer: The other day there was an A8 error, the boiler puffed like a steam locomotive, ignition and burner extinction after 30 seconds. This happened after heating the water in the heating system, flushed the heating circuit in the boiler. The problems are gone. I recommend that you do the flushing of the boiler.

Question: We installed and launched the Arderia 2.20 boiler. DHW is either cold or hot, gas is not cut off at this time. after 20-25 minutes constantly hot. Here's another thing, the water becomes comfortable at a temperature (not cold) only with a small pressure at one point, if you open hot water in another place, the boiler may go out. I read the instructions, I'm inclined to flush the DHW heat exchanger. Can you tell me something else?

Answer: Maybe your heating system is airy, and while air and water are circulating around the circuit through the heating heat exchanger, the water temperature is unstable. I suppose you can check this by turning off the boiler for half an hour and turning it on for heating to listen to the noise of seething in the boiler, if the air is seething, if not, then probably a three-way valve.

If this is your boiler circuit, then it is highly likely that the three-way valve is faulty
because it stands at the outlet of the heat exchanger and a very hot coolant comes out through it and destroys the 3-way valve. On most boilers, the 3-way one is on the heating return and operates at a lower temperature.

Question: A wall-mounted Arderia 2.20 boiler is installed and connected in the house. The problem is that it does not heat hot water. when you open the faucet, cold water flows out, this happens in both summer and winter mode. At the opening of the mountains water, the flame turns on and it heats the heating circuit. At first I thought it was a three-way valve, I bought a new one and installed it. But the problem was not solved, everything remained the same. Tell me what to do

Answer: Scheme: The hot water tap was opened - the flow began - the DHW flow sensor was triggered - a signal was received on the control board - the control board processed the signal and sent a command to the three-way valve - the three-way valve worked and redirected the heating water to the plate heat exchanger - cold household heating started. water in the secondary plate heat exchanger - mountains went out of the tap. household water.

What is the weak link in this algorithm? DHW sensor - board - three-way. We start in order with the sensor. The sensor may stupidly fail to work due to the fact that the pressure that the water flow creates is weak or increased hydraulic resistance, i.e. the filters or dirt in the sensor itself are clogged. A clogged secondary also creates an increased hydraulic resistance, but in this case, the heating of the DHW would rather take place in the pulsation mode, and not be absent at all, all the more so.

Question: We have installed and launched the Arderia ESR 2.35 FFCD gas boiler. When ignited, a decent cotton follows. Cleaned, inspected the gas valve, pipe, electrodes, etc. Played around with the min. pressure on the valve, did more and less than the factory one. It still pops, though a little less. When you pull the wires off the modulating coil, the turbine gradually starts to spin up to high speeds (from observation).

With the wires of the modulating coil removed, the boiler ignites more smoothly. How to make it work at a minimum without turning off the modulating coil? How to reduce the starting voltage on the coil? Reduce the starting voltage on the coil - Switch 5 on the board - to the lower position. Then reduce the pressure with the “MIN” resistor on the board. Then - return switch 5 to its place.

Answer: When gas is added, the boiler adds air. The power is removed, the flame has decreased, the temperature has dropped, it adds voltage to the modulation coil and increases the fan speed. Just in case: there is a screw under the modulation coil. It allows you to change the min. gas pressure without changing the fan speed. But act sensibly, because it will be difficult to return back.

Question: I have such a problem with the Arderia double-circuit boiler. DHW is constantly at 40 degrees, now the summer is warm, probably 70-75 degrees, I can’t say for sure! I called the master, unfortunately, we live in a regional center far from service centers! He told me that either the pressure of cold water is weak, or it goes warmer in the summer season and therefore the water overheats! He says to reduce the gas supply on the board or on the valve, in my opinion, tighten the nut, no sense! You turn off the water, and it still buzzes for 1-2 minutes! Is there anything that can be done to keep the water warm?

Answer: It is necessary to check the burner setting, if it is normal, then just open the water tap harder.

Question: Installed the boiler Arderia esr 2.13 ffcd. It seems to be crammed with automation, but the gas workers are forced to install an RMS with 2 sensors for CH4 and CO. I still agree to methane, but I don’t want to throw money away for the second one. Yes, and SNiP echoes the same thing to me. But they are in no way. I want to prove that the boiler has a back draft sensor (aka a carbon monoxide concentration sensor) But I can’t find documentary evidence anywhere. Although he's definitely there. If there is a notorious reverse thrust sensor. Show me where it is in the boiler?

Answer: The role of the thrust sensor is performed by an air pressure switch. Located inside the device. Turn off the boiler when the chimney or air supply pipes are clogged. Or will not let him turn on with these problems. The draft interrupter is just one of the elements of the boiler; in fact, it is equipped with a reverse draft sensor (if we talk about boilers with an open combustion chamber). And if the leakage of flue gases does not occur at the place of installation of this sensor (this may be a leak in the chimney after the boiler or through leaks in the combustion chamber), then this sensor will not react in any way.

Question: The Arderia dsr 220r boiler has been in operation for about a year. About a month ago, problems with the hot water supply began (when the hot water is turned on, the AA error lights up), I checked the electric drive of the three-way valve - it works, I turned the valve itself with a screwdriver and it turns normally. I collected it back - it worked, but not for a long time, a week and again an AA error.

At the moment the DHW is turned on, hot water only enters the hot water supply pipe for a few seconds (apparently at the moment the tap is switched), and then all the boiling water goes into the heating circuit and after a while the AA error lights up. I took everything apart again, twisted it, but it didn’t help anymore. During the rotation of the crane inside in certain positions, clicks are heard as the contacts of a relay or position sensor.

What could be the problem?

Answer: These contacts are the problem. maybe just broken or rotted or stuck. Dismantle, look, change. Another option - perhaps the secondary heat exchanger is clogged with salt deposits. Rinse and clean.

Question: Tell me, I heard that three-way valves often fail on Arderia 2.13 boilers. How can you extend their service life?

Answer: I can say that the three-way valve in the ardery is normal (almost like everyone else) 🙂 the bottleneck is the seal of the drive axis (I suspect that there is no seal at all) I disassemble it preventively, fill the contact group with grease and install it after assembly. In fact, a three-way valve-cock is a switch for the flow of coolant from the main heat exchanger either to CO or to a DHW plate heat exchanger.

In the design of the three-way contacts are used (you can call them limit switches), depending on the closed contact, voltage is applied to the first or second contact, when the desired position of the locking ball is reached, the contact is mechanically opened. the engine stops. Accordingly, the CO or DHW circuit operates. The reasons for failure are commonplace, poor sealing of the locking ball drive shaft.

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What to do if the Vailant boiler does not heat hot water

Vaillant boilers are particularly reliable and safe. Breakdowns of such complex equipment must be eliminated by the master. But, minor malfunctions can be removed on your own if you have a basic level of knowledge about the design of heating and heating boilers.

Most faults are indicated on the boiler display. Having a decoding of errors, you can figure out what is the reason for the boiler's failure to heat water. Where to start the search if the heating of water in the Vailant boiler does not work, and the indicator does not show an error, or can it be interpreted in different ways?

Vaillant boiler does not heat hot water due to blockages

This is one of the most common problems. Most often, the reason is the low quality of water - scale appears, nodes, filters and pipes become clogged.

If the flame does not light up in the boiler, start the test with the flow sensor. Finding this cylindrical fixture is quite simple. The flow sensor is located near the pump, it is to it that the wires fit. Two sensors are installed near the pump:

• Pressure sensor in the heating system.
• flow sensor.

The flow sensor looks like a small fan, it starts to rotate from the movement of water through the pipes. If the flow sensor detects the movement of water, a signal is sent to the automation about the need to turn on the gas and heat the water.

Gas boiler does not heat hot water

If the flow sensor is clogged, water will flow but the fan will not move. Accordingly, the signal to turn on the heating is not received. There are two ways to solve the problem:

• Do not rush to disassemble the boiler and try to "purge" the system first. Turn off the main water supply at home. Open the hot water faucet and let the water out of the system. Now the percentage of air in the pipes has increased. Start abruptly opening and closing the water tap directly in front of the boiler. These simple manipulations will help create pressure and clean the flow sensor fan from debris.
• If "purging" does not solve the problem, it is necessary to open the boiler, unscrew the flow sensor and clean it manually.

If the Vailant boiler does not heat hot water, the secondary heat exchanger should be checked. It also tends to get dirty quickly. But, fortunately, it is easy to remove, clean and install back.

A clogged three-way valve can also cause the boiler to fail to heat water. And you can remove this node yourself, clean it and install it back.

Having bought a Vaillant boiler, be sure to check with the seller information about the places where the filters are installed. You can clean and change these components yourself.

Faulty pump

The heating of water in the Vailant boiler largely depends on the operation of the pump. To repair or replace this unit, you must call a specialist. But, you can independently check whether it is the reason for the boiler's failure to work.

Set the water temperature on the boiler to 0 °C and turn on the water heating mode. At this time, monitor the operation of the pump. If after 20 minutes of operation it does not heat up, then the problem lies in the pump.

The reason for the failure of the boiler to heat water may also lie in the elementary unscrewing of the bolts in the connection areas. Look carefully at the boiler diagram and check that all connections are tight. Perhaps a simple tightening of the bolts will solve your problem.

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Repair and errors of gas boilers Viessmann Vitopend 100-W

Replacing the flow heat exchanger

Close the Viessmann Vitopend 100-W wall-mounted boiler from the heating circuit side and from the DHW side and drain the water from it.

Fig.8. Dismantling the flow heat exchanger

E - Heating water flow, F - Heating water return, G - Cold water, H - Hot water

Check the DHW connections for scale and the heating circuit connections for contamination. If necessary, clean or replace the flow heat exchanger.

Work to replace the flow heat exchanger:

— Slightly move stepper motor A up.

— Turn the stepper motor adapter B with stepper motor A 1/8 turn counterclockwise and remove it.

— Loosen the two screws C on the flow heat exchanger and remove the flow heat exchanger D together with the seals.

- Assemble the flow heat exchanger D in the reverse order using new seals. Mounting screw torque: 5.5 Nm.

— When mounting, ensure the position of the fixing holes and the correct seating of the seals.

— Ensure the correct installation position of the flow heat exchanger. Observe the marking "Top" (top).

- Assemble the boiler in reverse order.

— Fill the boiler with water, pump (bleed) and check for leaks.

Temperature limiter and boiler sensors Wisman Vitopend 100-W

Fig.9.

The boiler does not heat or heats hot water poorly: cause and solution

Removing the temperature limiter and boiler sensors Viessmann Vitopend 100-W

A - Temperature limiter, B - Boiler water temperature sensor, C - Outlet hot water temperature sensor (gas combi boiler), D - Draft tilt control sensor, 5 - Cylinder temperature sensor (gas single circuit boiler)

temperature limiter

Check that the gas burner control is not reset after a safety shutdown even though the boiler water temperature is below 90 °C.

— Check the current flow of the temperature limiter using a universal measuring instrument.

— Remove the defective temperature limiter.

- Install a new temperature limiter.

— To unlock, turn the control knob briefly to the right until it stops and then back. The ignition process is repeated.

Boiler water temperature sensor:

— Disconnect the cables from the sensor.

— The boiler water temperature sensor is located directly in the heating medium (risk of scalding).

— Drain the boiler before replacing the sensor.

Outlet temperature sensor (Viessmann Vitopend gas combi boiler):

— Disconnect the cables from the sensor.

- Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the characteristic.

— If there is a strong deviation, replace the sensor.

— Before replacing the sensor, empty the boiler on the DHW side.

Thrust rollover control sensor:

— Disconnect the cables from the sensor.

- Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the characteristic.

— If there is a strong deviation, replace the sensor.

Cylinder temperature sensor (gas-fired single-circuit boiler Wisman Vitopend):

— Disconnect plug 5 from the cable harness outside the controller.

- Measure the resistance of the sensor and compare it with the characteristic.

— If there is a strong deviation, replace the sensor.

Fault indication (error codes) of Viessmann Vitopend 100-W boilers and their elimination

A0 - Burner blocked

Gas pressure too low - Check gas pressure and gas pressure switch

E0 - Burner blocked

Traction control device activated - Check flue. If the draft stall control device has actuated 10 times within 24 hours, the burner goes into fault mode (fault indication "F6").

F2 - Burner failure

The temperature limiter has tripped - Check the filling level of the heating system. Check circulation pump. Remove air from the installation.

Check temperature limiter connecting cables. To unlock, turn the control knob almost to the stop to the right and then back (reset).

F3 - Burner failure

The flame signal is already present when the burner is started - Check the ionisation electrode and connecting cables. Switch mains switch 8 off and on again (or reset, see F2).

F4 - Burner failure

No flame signal - Check ignition electrodes / ionization electrode and connecting cables, check gas pressure, check gas control valve, ignition, ignition transformer.

F6 - Burner failure

Traction tipping control device activated - Check the traction tipping sensor.

F30 - Burner blocked

Boiler temperature sensor short circuit - Check the boiler water temperature sensor.

F38 - Burner blocked

Break in the boiler temperature sensor - Check the boiler water temperature sensor.

F50 - No hot water preparation

Short circuit of the temperature sensor of the DHW cylinder (gas single-circuit boiler Wiesmann Vitopend) - Check the sensor.

F51 - No hot water preparation

Short circuit in outlet hot water temperature sensor (Viessmann Vitopend gas combi boiler) - Check temperature sensor.

F58 - No hot water preparation

Open circuit of the temperature sensor of the storage water heater (gas single-circuit boiler Viessmann Vitopend 100) - Check the sensor.

F59 - No hot water preparation

Open circuit of the outlet hot water temperature sensor (gas combined boiler Wiesmann Vitopend) - Check the sensor.

b0 - Burner blocked

Traction tipping sensor short circuit - Check the traction tipping sensor.

b8 - Burner blocked

Traction control sensor break - Check the sensor.

Possible causes of changes in room temperature

The rooms are too cold:

— Incorrect setting of the room temperature controller — Set the desired room temperature on the room temperature controller.

— The heating system is switched off — Switch on the mains switch. Turn on the main switch, if available (located outside the boiler room). Check the fuse in the electrical distribution board (house input fuse).

- Incorrect controller setting - Set the regulator knob to a higher temperature of the coolant.

— DHW priority — Stop DHW extraction or wait for the DHW cylinder to finish heating up.

- Fault indication on the display: The symbol "U" appears and a fault code, for example "F2" - Turn the rotary selector to the right almost to the stop and then back (reset). If the error display reappears, contact your heating contractor.

— Air in the heating system — Vent the radiators.

— No fuel — Open the gas shut-off valve.

— Fault in the supply air system or in the gas path — Contact the heating service.

— Circulation pump defective — Contact customer service.

The rooms are too warm

— Incorrect setting of the room temperature controller — Set the desired room temperature on the room temperature controller

— Incorrect controller setting — Set the hot water temperature to a lower temperature with the regulator knob.

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Do-it-yourself geyser repair Oasis (Oasis)

Today we will consider the repair of the Chinese geyser Oasis (Oasis) with our own hands step by step.

The most common malfunction of the Oasis geyser is the failure of the water block membrane. In this case, the Oasis usually does not ignite. It is not difficult to identify this malfunction, and repairs can be done by hand. We will consider the disassembly of the column below. First, remove the column housing, set the water flow regulator on the column water block to the fully clockwise position and open the hot water tap. At the same time, we look at the microswitch, which is located in the middle - between the gas and water block of the column. If the membrane is working, then the water block rod presses on the foot, which releases the microswitch button, respectively, the column should crackle and light up. If the foot moves away from the microswitch well, but there is no cod, then the microswitch is most likely faulty. It can be checked by disconnecting the connector and closing the contacts.

Consider the case when the foot barely moves, or completely stands still when the water is turned on at the tap. It is likely that the water block membrane is torn and the pressure necessary for the movement of the water block is not created. Another common malfunction is the leakage of the stuffing box of the Oasis geyser. A gland leak usually leads to a breakdown of the same microswitch, because drops drip onto it. If you have found this particular malfunction, then do not waste time and change the gland assembly, otherwise your Oasis will soon stop igniting and turning on. Spare parts for repairing an Oasis geyser are not expensive, and I advise you, if you climb to disassemble the water block of the Oasis geyser, immediately change both the membrane and the stuffing box assembly. Basically, they are consumables. It will be a shame later when, having changed the stuffing box, you will encounter a replacement of the water block membrane in a month or vice versa. From experience, I also came across something else ... Let's say they changed a new membrane, your oil seal didn’t leak, it’s like they left it ... But it either leaked after a week, or, even worse, the column continued to burn when the water was closed, overheated, spat steam, happened something even more unpleasant if they did not have time to turn off the gas. Why did this happen? It's simple .. The stem of the water block in the stuffing box did not go all the way, but after replacing the membrane, it began to go all the way. When the rod barely moved, it was overgrown with salts, rust in the place where it did not go into the stuffing box ... Then everything is clear. The rod with an abrasive either erases the stuffing box ring, or even can jam there and not return to its original position. If you're lucky, then after this, at least the column heat exchanger will not leak, otherwise you will end up with expensive repairs

This means that the malfunction of the water block of the gas water heater has been found and you can consider how to repair the Oasis gas water heater with your own hands, disassemble the water heater. So, let's start step by step:

1. Remove from the geyser knob 1 - adjusting the gas supply of the gas block, knob 2 - adjusting the water flow of the water block, knob 3 - switch the geyser to winter / summer mode.

2. We find two self-tapping screws on the bottom right and left that fasten the column housing cover to the rear wall of the Oasis column and unscrew them. Usually it is inconvenient to get to the screws. Next, remove the front panel of the Oasis geyser from the top hooks on the back wall of the geyser.

3. Carefully, so as not to tear, disconnect the wire connectors that go to the column display from the control unit and from the temperature sensor.

4. Unscrew the two screws that secure the water block of the Oasis column to the back wall.

5. We unscrew the two screws that secure the gas column heat exchanger tube to the water block, and release the clamping flange. Remove the tube from the water block.

6. Disconnect the microswitch connector. The photo shows that it is wrapped in cellophane. This column had a stuffing box assembly, and so they decided to "zakolkhoz" in order to save the microswitch.

7. Disconnect the wires from the gas solenoid valve.

8. Disconnect the ground wire from the gas block by unscrewing the screw.

10. Disconnect the two self-tapping screws that secure the block of ignition and ionization electrodes to the burner of the Oasis geyser. Remove the wires going to the electrodes.

11. Unscrew the 2 screws that secure the column gas block to the back wall.

Why did a double-circuit gas boiler suddenly stop heating hot water?

Disconnect the power wires 1 from the battery compartment 2 of the geyser.

13. Now nothing prevents us from dismantling the water-gas unit and the burner assembly.

14. I tighten the two halves of the column water block housing with 4 screws. To disassemble the block, we need to unscrew them. Most likely, you will not succeed if you climb there with a screwdriver. The screws are made of low quality steel and you will rip off the splines. To prevent this from happening, I advise you to rip off the screws first with something like pliers, and then calmly twist with a screwdriver.

15. The block is half.

16. Remove the membrane of the water block 1 and the plate of the stem of the water block 2.

16. Under the plate of the stem of the water block is a hexagon - this is the visible part of the gland assembly. We need to unscrew it. Usually it is easily unscrewed, but the hexagon is 15 or 16 there (not a running size in Russia). The edge is very thin, it is difficult to hook it with a key. Don't rip.

17. In this photo we see the stuffing box assembly, which I removed.

We have finished the disassembly on this, now the Oasis geyser can be assembled in the reverse order by changing the gland assembly and the membrane. To a heap, I also change the microswitch if water dripped on it. But this is up to you. I hope my article turned out to be useful to you, and you made repairs, fixed the malfunctions yourself. If you do not want to bother with the search for spare parts and self-repair, then contact me, I will come to repair

https://gazmaster34.ru/remont-gazovyh-kotlov.html

I hope you find the Oasis geyser manual useful. Download

How to eliminate the clocking of a gas boiler in hot water mode

For heating and hot water supply of apartments and small private houses with one bathroom, double-circuit gas boilers are usually used. The owners of such boilers are often faced with the fact that either cold or hot water flows from the tap. As people say, the boiler is clocking, the DHW mode of the boiler periodically turns off and then turns on again.

The principles of adjustment described in this article, setting up the hot water supply system suitable for double-circuit gas boilers of many brands and manufacturers, as well as gas water heaters.

Why is the boiler either cold or hot water?

A double-circuit gas boiler in hot water supply (DHW) mode operates in the power range from minimum to maximum. For example, in the instruction manual for the Protherm Gepard 23 MTV boiler, it is indicated that with factory settings the maximum power is 23.3 kW., the boiler provides water heating for temperature difference dT=30 about C, at the maximum consumption of hot water 11.1 l/min.

Minimum boiler power in DHW mode 8.5 kW. It is not difficult to calculate that this minimum power is enough to heat water by the same temperature difference, for example dT=45-15=30 about C, with hot water consumption 4 l/min And for heating water flow 1.5 l/min, at which the boiler burner is turned on, it is necessary to operate the boiler with a power less than the minimum - only 3.15 kW.

The design of modern mixers is done taking into account the need to save water. In addition, boilers and columns have hot water flow limiters. For example, in a house with a boiler connected to the central water supply, the following results of measuring the maximum hot water flow were obtained: through the horn of the bath faucet 6 l/min., in washbasin 4 l/min., in the kitchen sink 5 l/min. It is convenient to measure the water flow in the taps if you call line d.36 of the service menu of the Protherm Gepard (Panther) boiler, or measure the time it takes to fill a 3-liter jar with water (there is a stopwatch in the smartphone).

Usually, in order to save money, users do not open the water taps for full flow. In addition, to obtain a comfortable temperature, hot water is always mixed with cold.

The burner of the boiler in the DHW mode turns on at a water flow of 1.5 l/min Turns off at 1.1 l/min This hysteresis is a protection against periodical switching on/off of the burner due to fluctuations in the flow rate.

Considering all these circumstances, the actual amount of water that the boiler should heat per minute will be approximately equal to - 1.5-4.5 l/min.

It is obvious that the difference between the factory settings of the minimum and maximum boiler power, designed for heating 4-11.1 liters per minute, and the power required to heat the actual flow in the tap, will be significant. Boiler burner power within the minimum and maximum power settings (8.5 - 23.3 kW) is controlled automatically. Obviously, there is a huge difference between the boiler power settings and the power required to heat the actual water flow (3.15 - 9.4 kW), leads to the fact that the boiler automation is not able to bring the boiler output in line with the needs of the DHW system.

A large excess of the factory-installed power of the gas boiler in the DHW mode over the power required to heat hot water in the taps of the users leads to the cycling (clocking) of hot water heating. The burner of the boiler in the DHW mode periodically turns on and off. Accordingly, from the tap comes either cold or hot water.

Setting, adjusting the temperature of hot water in the DHW system

Diagram of heating tap water by a double-circuit gas boiler depending on temperature ( T about C) and consumption ( Q l/min) hot water. The thick line shows the borders of the Working area. Gray zone, pos. 1 — boiler clocking zone (switching between ON/OFF).

For normal water heating by the boiler, on the diagram, the point of intersection of the temperature and hot water flow lines (working point) must always be inside the working zone, the boundaries of which are shown on the diagram with a thick line.

If the hot water consumption mode is selected so that the operating point will be in the gray zone, pos. 1 in the diagram, the boiler will cycle. In this zone, with a small flow of water, the boiler power is excessive, the boiler is switched off from overheating, and then switched on again.

It can be seen from the diagram that the boiler can normally heat water only when the hot water flow from the tap is in a limited range, 4-9 l/min. With a low flow rate, the boiler power is excessive and it cycles. And with a large one, the boiler power is not enough to heat the water to the required temperature.

As mentioned above, there is no need to prepare large streams of hot water in the house. It is much more important to ensure comfortable use of hot water at a low consumption. To this end, the working area on the diagram must be moved to the left. It can be done if you reduce the power of the boiler burner by reducing the gas supply by adjusting the gas valve.

How not to deal with clocking

Some "experts" advise setting the hot water temperature lower, less than 45 o C, in order not to dilute the water in the mixer when parsing water, and open the taps to full passage. Thus, it is proposed to get rid of clocking, increasing the flow of heated water to the maximum. In many cases, this really helps, since the water flow and temperature fall into the working area on the diagram.

In DHW systems with a double-circuit boiler or with a gas water heater I don't recommend doing that, and that's why. With this method, you have to spend water, and hence gas, much more than necessary. In addition, it is always necessary to keep a large flow of water from the tap, it is impossible to regulate the temperature of the water with a mixer - all this creates discomfort in using hot water.

In addition, the display of a double-circuit boiler with a secondary DHW plate heat exchanger does not show the temperature of the hot water at the outlet of the boiler, but the temperature of the heating water at the outlet of the heating circuit of the DHW heat exchanger (return temperature from the DHW heat exchanger).

In systems with a double-circuit boiler, in which water is heated in the secondary DHW heat exchanger, the automation controls and maintains a constant temperature of the heating water at the outlet of the primary circuit of the DHW heat exchanger (return temperature from the DHW heat exchanger), and the temperature of the hot water at the outlet of the secondary circuit of the DHW heat exchanger is not controlled.

The temperature of the hot water at the outlet of the boiler will be as it turns out, depending on the degree of opening of the tap, on the temperature and pressure of the water in the water supply, on the thickness of the scale layer. That is, each time the tap is opened, the temperature of the hot water will be different.

Therefore, the required hot water temperature at the outlet of the boiler cannot be pre-set on the display. If you set the heating water temperature on the display, for example 50 about C, then the temperature of hot water from the tap will always be less, and less each time in different ways.

In a DHW system with a double-circuit boiler, it is more convenient to regulate the water temperature directly at the tap at the time of disassembly, mixing in a mixer with cold water. To make this possible, it is necessary to have some margin for the temperature of the water at the outlet of the boiler.

For comfortable use of hot water from a double-circuit boiler or column, I recommend set the temperature on the display in DHW mode to 52 about S.

Temperature value 52 about C chosen for the following reasons:

• At a temperature of 54 about C and higher from tap water, an intensive release of hardness salts begins, which accumulate in the heat exchanger in the form of scale. Heating the water to a lower temperature protects the heat exchanger from scale deposits.
• Temperature 52 about C remains high enough and allows you to adjust the comfortable temperature of the water in the faucet by mixing hot water with a small amount of cold water. In rare cases when a higher temperature is required (for example when filling a bath), it is more beneficial to increase the DHW temperature setting on the boiler display.

The intensity of scale deposits in hot water depends on the temperature and speed of water movement near the heating source. According to studies, in still water, when the water in the tank is heated, the stone begins to form already at a temperature of 40 °C. With a high flow rate of hot water in the flow heat exchanger, the stone begins to form at temperatures above 54 °C.

Setting the boiler burner output in DHW mode

In order for the boiler in the DHW mode to heat the water evenly, not to cycle even with a minimum water flow, it is necessary to reduce the burner power, by reducing the gas supply by adjusting the gas valve. Thus, the entire work area on the diagram will move to the left. To do this, on the gas valve, reduce the factory settings for the minimum and maximum pressure at the gas outlet from the valve, in front of the burner.

As a result of adjusting the gas valve, there will be no signs of clocking the burner in the DHW mode when the hot water flow changes over the entire range, from the maximum (6 l/min) to the minimum specified in the instructions (1.5 l/min). The temperature of hot water can be regulated by a mixer, changing the flow rate of water and mixing it with cold water within limited, but quite comfortable limits.

Adjustment, adjustment of the SIT gas valve

SIT gas valve.

SIT gas valve. 1 - measuring fitting of gas pressure at the outlet of the valve, in front of the burner; 2 - adjusting nut for maximum pressure (flow) of gas; 3 - adjusting screw for minimum pressure (flow) of gas; 4 — cover of the adjusting device; 5 - measuring fitting of gas pressure at the valve inlet, in the gas network.

Manufacturers of double-circuit gas boilers of many brands install a gas valve from the Italian company SIT on the boilers. The settings for the maximum and minimum power of the boiler burner are made by turning the gas pressure adjusting screws located on the valve body.

A U-shaped pressure gauge is connected to the measuring fitting (1) to control the gas pressure in front of the burner. The gas pressure value corresponding to the minimum and maximum boiler power is indicated in the factory instructions. For example, for a Protherm Gepard 23 MTV boiler with a minimum power of 8.5 kW corresponds to pressure 15 mm w.c.(millimeters of water column). For maximum power 23.3 kW gas pressure at the fitting should be 85 mm w.c.

Adjustment of gas pressure in front of the burner in DHW mode

about C.

We remove the cover from the boiler and provide access to the gas valve and the ability to observe the height of the flame in the burner. We recommend connecting a U-shaped manometer to the measuring socket (1) of the gas valve.

On the gas valve, remove the cover of the adjusting device (pos. 4 in the figure). The initial position of the adjusting devices - nuts and screws, relative to the body, mark with a colored marker, if it is necessary to restore their position.

with maximum water flow(horn in bathroom 6 l/min).

Adjust (reduce) the gas pressure in front of the burner using the nut for adjusting the maximum gas pressure (pos.2). When turning to the right, the gas supply increases, and when turning to the left, it decreases. The purpose of the adjustment is to find the limit when further rotation of the adjusting nut leads to a decrease in the height of the flame in the burner, to a decrease in the temperature of hot water from the tap and to a decrease in gas pressure at the measuring point (1). Leave the nut in a position close to the boundary found.

As a result, the maximum power of the boiler will become less, and the right border of the working area on the diagram will shift to the left, to the point with coordinates, for our example, 60 about C and 6 l/min.

Set the hot water temperature on the boiler display to 52 about C. (see above for setting the DHW temperature)

On the gas valve, disconnect the modulator power cable. The boiler will go into minimum power mode.

Turn on the DHW mode on the boiler by opening for the minimum flow hot water tap with sufficient water flow to turn on the boiler burner.

Adjust (reduce) the gas pressure in front of the burner using the minimum gas pressure adjustment screw (pos.3). When turning to the right, the gas supply increases, and when turning to the left, it decreases. Visually observe the height of the flame in the boiler burner. The purpose of the adjustment is to reduce the gas supply to the burner (flame height) so that the burner works continuously and the temperature of the hot water from the tap remains constant, the boiler does not clock.

As a result, the minimum power of the boiler will be reduced. The left border of the working area on the diagram will shift further to the left, to the point with coordinates, for our example, 52 about C and 2 l/min.

Do not attempt to reduce the minimum pressure at the outlet of the gas valve too much. A very small gas pressure on the burner can lead to a violation of the stability of combustion, to the breakdown and extinction of the flame.

Reconnect the modulator power cable and replace the modulator cover.

We control the gas pressure in the network

The gas pressure in the gas network may drop below that allowed for the operation of the boiler. It is necessary to periodically control the pressure, especially in cold weather, when the gas flow in the network is maximum.

Static pressure and dynamic pressure are measured at the boiler inlet. Static pressure is when the boiler does not consume gas. The dynamic pressure is measured at the maximum gas flow rate of the boiler.

The pressure in the gas network, at the inlet of the gas valve, is measured by attaching a tube of a U-shaped pressure gauge to the fitting pos.5. To measure the dynamic pressure, open the hot water tap to the full passage.

The normal dynamic gas pressure at the gas valve inlet should be between 1.3 - 2.5 kPa (13 - 25 mbar or 132 - 255 mm. water. Art.). If during the measurement the value of the dynamic pressure goes beyond the specified limits, then it is necessary to contact the gas service.

How to measure the gas inlet pressure and adjust the minimum and maximum gas pressure at the outlet of the SIT gas valve, see this video.

A simple manometer for measurements on a gas valve can be made from a transparent plastic tube, filled with water and bent in the shape of a U. One end of the tube is put on the valve fitting, and the other is left open. The ruler measures the difference in water levels in the branches of the tube. The measured distance will be equal to the pressure in millimeters of the water column - mm w.c..

On the gas valve fitting, you can tightly pull a tube with an inner diameter of 8 mm. For a tube of a different diameter, you will have to select an adapter.

At the end of the measurement, do not forget to carefully tighten the locking screw on the measuring nipple and check its tightness.

Adjustment, adjustment of the Honeywell gas valve

Gas valve Honeywell gas boiler. The yellow wired connector is mounted on the stepper motor.

Some modern boilers, such as Protherm Gepard and Protherm Panther, have Honeywell gas valves.

The gas pressure setting at the outlet of the Honeywell gas valve is changed using a stepper motor. The stepper motor of the gas valve is controlled from the boiler control panel through the service menu.

We will consider setting up a gas valve with a stepper motor through the service menu using the example of Protherm Gepard and Protherm Panther gas boilers.

Access to the Protherm boiler service menu

The electromechanical devices of the boiler (electrovalves, stepper and conventional electric motors, sensors) are controlled by the microprocessor of the electronic control board in accordance with the programmed program.

The settings of the boiler operation program can be changed on the control panel using two menus - a public user and hidden service menu.

Access to the service menu of the Gepard boiler

The Protherm Gepard boiler is controlled from the control panel through the public user menu. How the owner manages the boiler is written in the instruction manual.

On the control panel, you can call up another hidden menu - a service menu intended for specialists. The service menu becomes available on the display screen after entering the code.

Press and hold the mode button (1) for about 7 seconds; the display will change - a number will appear 0 . - With buttons + or - (2), enter code, number 35 . - Confirm the code entry by pressing the mode button (1). After that, the display will show the 1st menu line in the form of symbols interspersed on the screen: d. 0.

Buttons + or - d.**.

Press the "mode" button to change from menu bar number designation " d.**” to the parameter value (the display alternates between the “=” symbol and the parameter value). - Change the values ​​of the displayed parameters using the + or - buttons (3) on the boiler panel. - 3 seconds after the change, the new values ​​are automatically confirmed. To reset the display, press the "mode" button for 3 seconds. After 15 minutes of inactivity, the display returns to normal on its own.

Access to the service menu of the Panther boiler (Panther)

The control panel of the Protherm Panther boiler has some differences from the Protherm Gepard boiler. The boiler control panel has a hidden service menu, which becomes available when entering the code.

To access the service menu of the Protherm Panther boiler (Panther), you must: Press and hold the mode button (1) for about 7 seconds; the display will change. - Via buttons on the left + or - (2), enter the access code in the service menu - the number 35 in the left half of the display. - Confirm the code entry by pressing the mode button (1).

After that, the display will show the 1st line of the menu in the form of symbols d.00 with the menu line number in the left half of the display, and the numeric value of the line parameter in the right half of the display. - Via buttons on the left + or - (2), enter the number with the required menu line number: d.**.

To change the value of a parameter in the menu bar:- Change the values ​​of the displayed line parameters with buttons on the right + or - (3) on the boiler panel. - 3 seconds after the change, the new values ​​are automatically confirmed. To reset the display, press the "mode" button for 3 seconds. After 15 minutes of inactivity, the display returns to normal on its own.

The service menu commands and the procedure for setting the power of the Protherm Panther boiler (Panther) are similar to those given for the Protherm Gepard boiler.

Description of some service menu commands

Line d.36- shows on the display the hot water consumption measured by the flow sensor, l/min. when dispensing hot water (read-only).

Let's determine the consumption of hot water in our apartment (in the house). Line d.36 of the service menu shows on the display the hot water consumption measured by the flow sensor, l/min. We display the line parameter d.36 on the display, then open the DHW taps in the apartment (in the house) one by one for full flow and record the water consumption readings from the display.

Line d.52- setting the minimum power of the boiler burner by shifting the minimum position of the stepper motor of the Honeywell gas valve. The range of possible parameter values ​​is from =0 to =99. The smaller the value of the parameter, the weaker the intensity of gas combustion.

Line d.53- setting the maximum power of the boiler burner by shifting the maximum position of the gas valve stepper motor Honeywell. The range of possible parameter values ​​is from =0 to =-99 (negative values ​​with a minus sign). The smaller the value of the parameter, the weaker the intensity of gas combustion.

Line d.88- Protection against water hammer in the distribution of cold water (for boilers KTV and KOV) . The ability to change the parameter leads to the elimination of the reaction to water hammer, which occurs in some cases in cold water pipelines. For example, at the moment the automatic valve closes in the toilet flush tank (or washing machine or dishwasher), a pressure surge (water hammer) may occur in the water pipes. The consequence of this may be a false operation of the tap water flow sensor (turbine), which will lead to a short-term unwanted activation of the boiler's DHW mode. Factory setting 0 = activation of the ignition process for heating tap water at a flow rate of 1.5 l/min. Changing the parameter to value 1 = activation of the ignition process for heating tap water at a flow rate of 3.7 l/min. In this case, the duration of the flow must be at least 2 seconds.

Line d.96- Setting the boiler to the parameters set from the factory. In case the setting leads to incorrect operation or failures, it is possible to restore the factory settings of the boiler. Setting: 0 - replacement with factory settings will not be performed; 1 - will return to the factory settings Note: when you enter the setting of this parameter, the display always shows the parameter "0".

Setting, adjusting the minimum power of the boiler with a Honeywell gas valve

The boiler manufacturer Protherm Gepard (Panther) on some versions of the boilers, instead of the Honeywell gas valve, installs the SIT 845 Sigma gas valve. The setting of this valve is described above. There are no lines d.52 and d.53 in the service menu of Protherm boilers with SIT valve.

Setting the maximum gas pressure:

On the boiler display, set the maximum hot water heating temperature to 60 about C.

We remove the cover from the boiler and provide access to the gas valve and the ability to observe the height of the flame in the burner. I recommend connecting a U-shaped pressure gauge to the measuring fitting at the valve outlet.

Turn on the DHW mode on the boiler by opening the hot water tap to full flow with maximum water flow(horn in bathroom 6 l/min).

d.53, press the “mode” button and see on the display the value of the gas valve stepper motor position parameter in the maximum power mode. For example, on a new boiler, the factory setting of the maximum power parameter in the line d.53 was = -17 .

Decrease the value of the parameter in line d.53 step by step and fix the result. For example, set the line to =-30 (minus 30 is less than minus 17) and press "mode" for the changes to take effect. We look at the height of the flame in the burner and the value of the gas pressure. They haven't changed.

The purpose of the adjustment is to find the limit when a further decrease in the parameter in line d.53 leads to a decrease in the height of the flame in the burner and to a decrease in gas pressure at the measuring point. In our example, the flame height and pressure began to decrease when the parameter in line d.53 was set to less than = -70 (remember, factory setting = -17)

As a result, the right border of the working area on the diagram will shift to the left, to the point with coordinates, for our example, 60 about C and 6 l/min. The maximum power of the boiler will be reduced.

Setting the minimum gas pressure in front of the burner:

To adjust the gas valve, the boiler is switched to DHW mode. For this, we open for the minimum pass hot water tap with a flow rate sufficient to turn on the boiler burner.

In the service menu, select the line d.52, press the “mode” button and see on the display the value of the gas valve stepper motor position parameter in the minimum power mode. For example, on a new boiler, the factory setting of the minimum power parameter in the line d.52 was = 72 and the burner cycled in DHW mode.

We carry out experiments - reduce the value of the parameter in the line d.52 =60 , press "mode" to make the changes take effect, and check the result. If the clocking has not stopped, then we also reduce the parameter in the line d.52 = 50 and observe the change in the temperature of the hot water in the tap. So, step by step, we reduce the parameter in line d.52 until we achieve the absence of temperature fluctuations at a comfortable water flow.

We reduce clocking to an acceptable comfortable level. Do not attempt to reduce the minimum pressure at the outlet of the gas valve too much. A very small gas pressure on the burner can lead to a violation of the stability of combustion, to the breakdown and extinction of the flame.

For example, on a new boiler, the temperature of hot water in the tap reached 52 about C, after setting in line d.52 parameter =30 (remember, the factory setting was =72). There were no signs of burner cycling in the DHW mode when the flow rate changed over the entire range, from the maximum (6 l/min) to a minimum of 1.5 l/min. The temperature of hot water can be adjusted with a mixer, changing the flow rate of water and mixing it with cold water within limited, but quite comfortable limits.

How will the settings of the gas valve for domestic hot water affect heating

Reducing the pressure setting at the outlet of the DHW gas valve will also lead to a slight decrease in the boiler output in heating mode. But in most cases, the maximum output of a combi boiler is chosen to cover water heating requirements that exceed the required output for the heating system.

For our example, the maximum boiler power will decrease from 23.3 kW. up to 12-14 kW. This power will be enough to heat a house with a heated area of ​​up to 140 m 2.

The maximum power of a double-circuit boiler is usually more than is necessary for heating operation. Therefore, after setting the DHW mode, in most cases, it is enough to increase the maximum power setting when the boiler is operating in heating mode. How to do it

If the boiler power in heating mode is still insufficient, you will have to restore the factory settings of the gas valve. In this case, to eliminate the DHW clocking, I recommend connecting a boiler to the boiler.

About the disadvantages of reducing the boiler power settings

The service manual for the Protherm Gepard 23 MTV boiler indicates its efficiency in heating mode: 93.2% at maximum heat output (23.3 kW.) and 79.4% when operating at minimum power (8.5 kW.) Imagine how the efficiency will decrease even more if this boiler has to work with a minimum power of 4 kW. Please note that a double-circuit boiler during the year most of the time operates in heating and hot water mode with a minimum power. At least 1/4 of the consumed gas will literally fly uselessly into the pipe. But clocking, as already mentioned above, also reduces the efficiency of the boiler, leads to excessive consumption of water and gas, and makes the use of water uncomfortable.

In the comments to the article, the reader Sergey writes:“The manufacturer did not just set the minimum and maximum power of the boiler. According to you, if it were all so simple, then the manufacturer, with the help of its service representatives, would reconfigure the boilers as you are talking about it. But the manufacturer in these cases insists to deal with the pressure and not with the boiler. As I understand it, this is due to the fact that changing the minimum / maximum range on the burner is dangerous, for the boiler in the first place. If the pressure of the gas supplied to the burner is lowered, the flame will go down, in which case the burner will be damaged over time?

And this is my answer to Sergey:“My boiler has been working for the fifth year. Every summer I clean and inspect the burner. I don't see any signs of damage or overheating. I do the same for others. There is no protection against low gas pressure on the boilers. So the manufacturer believes that it is not dangerous.
Low pressure is dangerous for boilers with burners, in which the gas is pre-mixed with air and the already prepared mixture leaves the burner. Then yes, at low pressure, the flame can even slip into the inside of the burner and really damage the burner.
Most household boilers do not have a burner like this. There is a danger of extinguishing, blowing out the flame, but the boilers have protection that will turn off the boiler and give an error.
The choice is up to the owner - either live with clocking, or change settings, or buy a boiler or another boiler.
Manufacturers, sellers and specialists actually deceive buyers, with rare exceptions, they do not inform them about the cycle time of a double-circuit boiler at low water consumption. Buyers think that there will be normal hot water at the minimum flow rate specified in the instructions, and then it turns out that this is not the case. Reconfiguring greatly reduces the efficiency of the boiler. This information is not in the instructions and descriptions for users. If all this was explained to buyers, they would buy other boilers.”

We choose the power of a gas boiler for the house correctly

Most gas-fired double-circuit boilers that are commercially available are designed to operate with a minimum heat output. over 8 kW.

Some manufacturers began to "cunning". In the boiler control program, limit maximum heat output in heating mode. And indicate its value in the designation of the brand of the boiler. Boilers appeared on sale with an indication of the power in the brand of the boiler, for example - 12 kW. At the same time, in the boiler passport, the maximum power in the DHW mode remains 20 - 24 kW., and the minimum in all modes is more than 8 kW.

On sale you can also find double-circuit gas boilers with a maximum heat output of 20 - 24 kW. and minimum less than 5 kW. Such boilers are best suited to the needs of heating and hot water systems of small private houses and apartments. At maximum power, the boiler operates in DHW mode. At minimum power - in heating mode.

For the preparation of hot water and heating houses and apartments with a heated area up to 120 m 2, with one bathroom, I recommend installing double-circuit gas boilers with an extended operating power range:

• • with a maximum power of 20 - 24 kW.
  • and minimum less than 5 kW.

Filter at the heating water inlet to the DHW heat exchanger

Problems with hot water heating sometimes arise and are aggravated due to clogging of the filter installed at the heating water inlet to the DHW plate heat exchanger. The filter protects the DHW plate heat exchanger from dirt from the heating circuit.

If the filter is heavily clogged with dirt, then in DHW mode this most often manifests itself as an error: “overheating of the primary circuit at the supply (NTC2)”. The overheating protection is activated and the boiler is switched off.

For all brands of boilers, the filter is removed in different ways. But this procedure usually does not present any particular difficulties. No special tool is required. But it would be better to find instructions, a website, pictures or videos on the Internet on this topic. For the first time, you can invite a service specialist and see how he removes the filter.

Cleaning the hot water filter of double-circuit gas boilers Protherm Gepard and Panther (Panther)

1 - mounting rails, heat exchanger holders; 2 - holder screw; 3 - gasket; 4 - heating water filter at the inlet to the heat exchanger; 5 - DHW heat exchanger of a gas boiler;

To clean the DHW heat exchanger filter:

1. Close the taps on the supply and return of heating water.
2. Open the drain valve on the boiler, on the right under the pump, and drain the heating water from the boiler.
3. Close the tap at the cold water inlet and disconnect the cold water tube from the boiler. Water will drain from the boiler through the open cold water pipe. Open the hot water taps to completely empty the DHW tract from the water.
4. Remove screws (2) and holder (1) from both sides of the plate heat exchanger.
5. Remove the DHW plate heat exchanger (5). The body of the plate heat exchanger is pressed with mounting rails to the base. After the tires are removed, pull the heat exchanger up and remove it.
6. Remove spacers (3).
7. Remove the filter (4) from the hydro group.
8. Clean the filter and put everything back.

It is recommended to change the gaskets between the heat exchanger and the base (3) every time during installation. DHW heat exchanger gasket, rubber ring: 22.2x13.5x5 mm. From the inside - an annular recess. Article number: 0020014166 (10 pieces).

When reinstalling, check the correct location of the heat exchanger - the markings on its side wall should look forward. I encourage you to take a moment and descale the heat exchanger removed from the boiler. How to do this - read the following article on this topic.

Constructive and modification solutions of modern gas boilers are aimed at uninterrupted and efficient operation. Ariston boilers, popular in Russia, are no exception. But sometimes failures occur when the unit ceases to properly perform its main function - heating water to provide hot water and space heating. To understand what is the cause of the malfunction, why the Ariston boiler does not heat hot water, you need to understand how the system works.

Read in the article

Work principles

Gas boilers, as a rule, have two circuits - heating and water heating. Double-circuit devices are a combination of several blocks responsible for a certain functionality of the system. So, the gas block is responsible for the ignition and combustion of the burner, which allows the heat-conducting liquid to warm up, water is supplied in the water unit and the necessary pressure is provided in the line, the chimney unit releases combustion products into the environment, the control unit controls the operation of all boiler systems.

When the unit is started using a pump, water is pumped into the system, passing through the pipes of the heat exchanger. As soon as the liquid has entered the water unit, the gas supply valve opens and the burner is ignited. The process of heating the body of the heat exchanger occurs evenly and is controlled by temperature sensors.

Important! Heating cycles are controlled by sensors. When the water temperature drops to a certain temperature, it is the sensors that transmit an impulse to the control module to resume heating.

When hot water enters the faucet, a flow sensor is connected. A signal is sent from it to the board, after which the three-way valve is activated and switches to heating the water supply.

The main problems why the boiler does not heat water

More often, malfunctions at the boiler are detected during the heating season, when both circuits of the device are working. There are two main problems faced by owners of wall-mounted gas boilers such as Ariston:

• all boiler systems work, the device turns on, but heats the water weakly or does not heat at all;
• the boiler does not start, and, as a result, there is no hot water supply.

Each of these problems has its own causes and solutions. To troubleshoot, you need to figure out what caused and caused them.

Before finding out the causes of a malfunction of the unit, you should look into the instruction manual, read the instructions and check the correct settings and connection of the device.

Note! Modern gas boilers are equipped with a diagnostic system that detects malfunctions and displays an error code on the display. The instructions for the unit will help decipher the codes.

If all requirements and conditions are met, the most common causes of malfunctions should be considered:

• blockage. Experts say that the use of unfiltered working fluid increases the risk of clogging of the heat exchanger tubes. The resulting scale reduces its thermal conductivity, which makes the unit work with an excessive consumption of energy. In this case, the optimum temperature regime is not achieved even with continuous operation of the device. Due to the limescale deposited inside the pipes of the heat exchanger, the metal undergoes corrosive changes, which can lead to its rupture.
• Faulty pump. The circulation of the coolant can be stopped due to the accumulation of air, the so-called air plug in the pump. The second cause of a pump failure may be a rotor that is jammed. A circulation pump that has ceased to function can lead to overheating of the gas boiler.
• The flow sensor is stuck. Inside the boiler is a sensor in the form of a turbine, resembling a small fan. When the turbine rotates inside the sensor, an electrical impulse is generated due to the fluid current, which is fed to the control unit. Thus, the electrical system understands that it is necessary to warm up the coolant.
• Stuck three-way valve. Such a malfunction will not allow switching the water supply from heating to DHW. A valve stopper can occur due to blockage, both of the part itself and of the gas hose or filter.
• Insufficient pressure. If the volume of liquid in the system does not create the desired pressure, the water supply valve does not open, which leads to burner ignition failure.

Possible nuances

Today on the market there are many gas wall-mounted boilers from various manufacturers. The principle of operation of the units for all models is essentially the same, but each brand has its own nuances that may be related to the causes of malfunctions and, as a result, poor water heating.

• "Ariston" is an Italian brand that is distinguished by reliability. Brand boilers are adapted to domestic utilities and operating conditions. The most common cause of malfunctions is hard water, which contributes to the formation of blockages in the heat exchanger and circulation pump.
• "Navien" - Korean autonomous gas boilers. They are easy to operate and efficient. A feature of the modification is the presence of two heat exchangers and the absence of a control panel on the body. The reason why the Navien boiler does not heat hot water well can be a stoppage of the equipment. This is due to the air pressure sensor, which, in the presence of reverse draft in the chimney unit, sends a signal to the control board, due to which the gas supply valve to the burner closes.
• "Wailant". German quality is fully reflected in the units under this brand. Since the device is of European origin, its heat exchangers most often suffer, which become clogged due to inadequate quality of the conductive heat fluid.
• Baksi is another representative of Italian manufacturers of autonomous heating equipment. He has simple and reliable boilers. The main reason why Baksi does not heat water, as noted by specialists in the maintenance of such units, is a factory defect, which is sometimes found in the model line of this company.
• Arderia is a South Korean manufacturer. He provided a certain algorithm for controlling heating equipment. Incorrect settings may be the answer to the question of why the boiler stopped heating water.
• Proterm is a subsidiary of the German company Vaillent. When operating these boilers, it is necessary to monitor the quality of the heat-conducting fluid, use cleaning filters to prevent clogging of the heat exchanger.
• "Buderus" is another "German" in the domestic market of autonomous heating equipment, which has proven itself on the positive side. Like all Europeans, malfunctions can be caused by the formation of limescale inside the heat exchange system, as well as clogging of the working fluid flow sensor.

Possible Solutions

When the reason why the boiler does not heat water is known, you can try to eliminate it yourself. Manufacturers often make mechanical assemblies available for self-service.

Important! When troubleshooting on your own, you must disconnect the unit from the power supply before starting work and free the internal components from the coolant

• If the heat exchanger is clogged, you can clean it with special liquids, or by using proven home remedies for descaling. In the future, it is better to use filtering devices at the inlet of the coolant to the boiler.
• If the cause is a faulty pump, you should disassemble it and inspect the rotor. If foreign particles are found that block free movement, it is necessary to remove them. The filter should also be inspected for clogging.
• When the water flow sensor became the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the part from it, inside which the turbine is located. If, when you turn your finger, it starts to click or slow down in the direction of travel, this means that there are foreign particles in the case. You should try to flush the turbine and clean each of its blades with a cotton swab dipped in cleaning fluid.
• The three-way valve, if it caused a malfunction of the boiler, must also be cleaned, and at the same time check the gas hose and filter.
• Under reduced pressure, check all fittings and valves on the device, the pressure with which water flows from the mixer. If there are no leaks, and the pressure is weak or absent, then simply replenishing the water in the expansion tank will help solve the problem.

One of the main tips is to follow the operating rules and follow the recommendations of manufacturers. It is important to remember that prevention is always more profitable and better than repair. Timely maintenance, checking the main components of the system will extend the life of an autonomous heater.

During the operation of a double-circuit gas boiler, each user will encounter certain problems associated with the operation of the hot water circuit. These problems are inevitable. They always appear, regardless of the manufacturer of the boiler and its heat exchanger, on the design features of the boiler; It doesn't matter if the boiler is wall-mounted or floor-standing. Often the boiler starts to heat hot water poorly or does not heat it at all. Especially when you use multiple points at the same time. Let's talk in this material how to get rid of this problem forever.

In any room where a double-circuit gas boiler is installed, whether it is an apartment, a country house or an office, there are certainly several places that are water intake points: a washbasin in the toilet, a shower in the bathroom, a sink in the kitchen. All these points are connected to the hot water circuit of the boiler.

What happens when hot water is turned on at one point of intake

The double-circuit boiler is set to maintain a certain temperature in the hot water circuit. When hot water is turned on at one of the points:

• for some time, cold water continues to flow from the tap, which stood in the pipe before it was opened,
• the heating of the boiler is turned on, while it takes a certain time for it to reach the set temperature,
• after a few seconds, heated water enters the pipe and begins to move to the intake point,
• a few more seconds are needed for hot water to reach the point of intake,
• an additional few seconds are necessary due to the fact that the incoming water seems too hot to the consumer, and he regulates the water supply by the mixer.

Thus, at least a few seconds pass from the moment the hot water tap is opened to the moment the water supply starts at a comfortable temperature. The farther the water intake point is from the boiler, the longer this period of time.

All this time, the user cannot fully use the water and it will be that the boiler does not heat normally hot water. It waits for the moment when water arrives at a comfortable temperature. Meanwhile, water that is not comfortable for the user simply goes down the drain.

Unproductive water consumption can range from a few liters to tens of liters, depending on how far the water intake point is from the boiler.

What happens when hot water is turned on at the same time at two points of intake

The scheme becomes more complicated if, during the use of hot water at one point of intake, it becomes necessary to turn it on at another point, for example: when the shower in the bathroom is turned on, it becomes necessary to wash your hands in the washbasin of the toilet. In this case:

• the rate of use of hot water increases sharply, its consumption increases,
• there is a weak pressure of hot water;
• the flow of cold water into the boiler increases,
• a drop in the temperature of the boiler heat exchanger leads to the fact that the water temperature at the first point of intake ceases to be comfortable,
• a few seconds are needed to turn on the automatic boiler for heating,
• a few more seconds to ensure that both users at two points of the fence can use water at a comfortable temperature.

All this time, both users cannot fully use hot water. She comes intermittently. Unproductive consumption of water, uselessly going down the drain, increases dramatically.

What if one of the users turned off the water? In this case, the consumption of hot water drops sharply. A temperature jump occurs on the heater of a double-circuit gas boiler. As a result, the temperature of hot water rises sharply at the point of intake, which continues to work. The user cannot fully use the water, it goes into the sewer until the automatics work on the boiler, and the water of the desired temperature begins to flow to the user in a stable mode.

Since such situations are repeated several times every day, the unproductive consumption of hot water is increasing every day. At the same time, one should not forget about the discomfort that users experience during moments of unstable hot water supply.

Ways to solve the problem

The problem can be solved in ways that require significant investment, for example:

• use with a boiler
• purchase of a new boiler with a built-in boiler.

However, there is a way that is less expensive, but very productive - inserting an electric storage heater into the hot water circuit. Moreover, for this purpose, any standard heater with a volume of 30 liters is quite suitable, regardless of the manufacturer.

Use a water heater

A water heater embedded in the hot water circuit acts as a buffer tank. Its purpose is to equalize the temperature of hot water and smooth out possible temperature fluctuations. The storage water heater and the gas boiler heater are set to the same operating temperature.

Even if hot water taps are turned on simultaneously at different points of its intake, all users will initially receive water from the storage tank. The time spent waiting for a comfortable water temperature is reduced. Reduced waste of water.

Turning on and off the hot water supply at any point of the intake causes a temperature drop in the water at the outlet of the gas boiler. However, this water enters the lower part of the water heater, and when it leaves the upper part, the temperature jump is completely smoothed out.

Connecting the water heater through a ball valve allows you to switch to the normal gas boiler operation system at any time, which can ensure uninterrupted hot water supply in the event of a water heater breakdown.

Using a bypass jumper with a tap in close proximity to the boiler allows you to exclude the boiler from the hot water supply system. If the boiler is under maintenance, the use of the existing water heater will ensure the uninterrupted operation of the hot water supply system.

Use expansion tank

In winter, when the heating circuit is activated at the boiler, any turning on of hot water leads to the fact that it is turned off so that the hot water circuit can turn on. During the summer period, when the boiler is not connected to the heating circuit, each hot water switch-on causes the gas boiler to switch on.

Often, the user turns on the hot water faucet just to rinse their hands. The boiler turns on or switches, hot water flows through the pipes. But the user can simply not wait for it by washing his hands with cold water.

Meanwhile, frequent and useless inclusions and switching of the boiler “eat up” its service life. A possible solution is to install a small expansion tank. It is installed in front of the water heater. In the presence of such a tank, for the first time after turning on the tap, hot water enters the pipe exclusively from the water heater due to the increase in pressure in the tank. Thus, in the case of a short use of hot water, there is no need to turn on and switch the boiler.

Use recycling pump

The best option - the water heater is located in the immediate vicinity of the hot water intake points. The closer it is, the faster hot water will enter the tap, the more efficiently it is used. If this option of installing a water heater is not possible, then it is recommended to install a recirculation pump.

The pump is installed on the segment between the water heater and the hot water intake points, ensuring the slow movement of hot water through the pipes. In addition, if you embed a heated towel rail on this segment, it will perform its direct function at any time of the year, regardless of the operation of the heating circuit of the boiler.

The effectiveness of the proposed method

With a relatively small cash outlay, the installation of a water heater, expander and pump allows you to:

• save up to 25 thousand liters of water per year if a family of four lives in the apartment,
• use water at a comfortable temperature even in the case of simultaneous operation of several points of water intake,
• reduce the consumption of gas and electricity,
• extend the life of the double-circuit boiler.