Poor pouring tomatoes why and what to do. Why tomatoes do not turn red in the greenhouse: what to do to make them sing faster, what to do if the tomatoes are poorly poured

From the side, the tomato bush looks powerful, well developed, the leaves are dark green and juicy, and the upper leaves suddenly began to curl - all this indicates that the tomato bush began to fatten, in the words of a gardener. Do not expect a good harvest from such a tomato bush, since everything in the bush goes into greenery, into the vegetative mass, and not into fruits. The flower brush will be underdeveloped with a small number of flowers.

From what this can happen - there are several factors:

The introduction of large doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers - excessive passion for watering (it is better to shed the soil less often, but more abundantly up to 50 cm) - insufficient illumination The situation can be corrected: exclude watering for 5-8 days, increase temperature regime during the day up to 25 degrees, and at night up to 22-24 degrees. for a few days (for tomatoes in the greenhouse this can be done simply - do not ventilate, do not open the windows). Also carry out manual pollination of tomatoes either by shaking the flower brush, or with special powder puffs.

This should be done in warm, dry weather, and preferably from 11 o'clock to lunch. The next stage - we need to restrain the growth of the tomato bush. To do this, you need root top dressing with superphosphate (for 10 liters - 3 tablespoons of fertilizer) at the rate of 1 liter for each plant.

The plant will recover in a short time. It happens that in some tomato bushes the leaves are directed upwards at an acute angle. The flowers of these tomatoes often fall off and the fruits are very small.

The leaves do not curl - this is a sign that, on the contrary, the tomatoes lack watering, the ground under them is dry and hot. Urgent need to ventilate tomatoes in the greenhouse, lower the temperature and naturally water the plant. In a normally developing tomato bush, the flowers are bright yellow and large, they never fall off and on their flower brush a large number of.

The leaves curl a little at night, and straighten out during the day. It happens that the tomatoes on the second and third brush pour very poorly, and on the first brush the development is going well. To do this, you need to harvest from the first brush, without waiting for the full ripening of the fruit, after which the flowering will improve, and the rest of the tomatoes will pour faster.

Brown tomatoes will ripen sunny place for two days. After harvesting, you need to water the tomatoes 10-12 liters per 1 sq.m. Leaves and stepchildren do not need to be cut, the temperature should be reduced to 17 degrees for tomatoes in the greenhouse. through ventilation, especially at night.

Under these conditions, the formation occurs faster than subsequent tomato brushes and ripening will be earlier. abnormal heat the gardener who grows tomatoes in open field, and not in a greenhouse, since the temperature at tomatoes in the greenhouse during the day it reaches + 60 degrees. and here the opening of the vents will not help, you need to disassemble the film structure completely. See you on the pages of my blog! I wish you success! And for dessert unusual video: 3D projection on the building - very interestingPerhaps you will be interested in articles:

Why didn't the tomatoes grow?

Although gardeners themselves and scientific men often write about the cultivation of tomatoes in the periodical press, let's once again try to briefly talk about why the last, unusually hot and dry summer for us, had a poor tomato crop in many areas. What's the matter? It turns out that there are several reasons for this.

Violation of the thermal regime

The main secret of success when growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is to keep all the flowers and ovaries, especially on the first racemes, to prevent the ovaries from falling off. Why does this often happen? The most important condition for the normal pollination of flowers and the formation of ovaries in tomatoes is the strict observance of the temperature regime necessary for plants.

Most optimum temperature air for pollination of flowers in sunny weather +24...+28°C, in cloudy weather +20...+22°C, and at night - +18...+19°C. At air temperatures above +32° C, the pollen of flowers becomes practically almost unviable, and at temperatures below + 15 ° C, the maturation of pollen in the vast majority of varieties and hybrids stops altogether. In both cases, pollination of flowers does not occur and the ovaries fall off.

High air humidity

Other essential condition for the formation of the ovary is the strict observance of the air humidity in the greenhouse necessary for the plants. We must firmly remember that a relative humidity of more than 65% is detrimental to the crop.

You can often see how in two neighboring areas in the same greenhouses, with the same varieties and growing technology - in one greenhouse the plants are bursting from the harvest of fruits, and in the other there is nothing, especially on the first two brushes. And the reason is very simple: the owner of the first greenhouse is drafty from all sides, there are large vents in the roof to remove excessively heated and excessively humid air, and the second owner “clogged” all windows and doors during the flowering period of plants. Such a " Finnish bath"In a greenhouse, it can damage the tomato crop more than all frosts, pests and diseases combined. After all, during the period of flowering and fruit set, tomatoes especially require low air humidity and a draft.

Why? And because at high humidity, pollen sticks together into lumps or does not get enough sleep from the anthers. In addition, as mentioned above, when the air temperature in the greenhouse is above + 30-32 ° C, pollen generally becomes sterile.

That is why in hot weather it was necessary to help the pollination of flowers. To do this, splash (but do not whiten) glass from the sun with a weak chalk solution. And in the afternoon, when it is especially hot and humid, they lightly tap with a stick on the twine to which the plants are tied and arrange the same drafts that were mentioned above. "Ovary"), "Bud", etc., which ensure the formation of the ovary under the most adverse weather conditions.

Severe lack of moisture in the soil

In tomatoes, during the setting and the beginning of fruit growth, a very high need for moisture is observed. Therefore, drying the soil in the greenhouse at this time leads to shedding of flowers and ovaries. The optimum soil moisture should be at the level of 70-75%.

At this time, long breaks between waterings are especially dangerous, because. without sufficient moisture, fruit growth stops. And the resumption of watering, much to the bewilderment of many novice gardeners, causes cracking of the fruit. But in many gardens, due to lack of water, gardeners were forced to carry out frequent, but extremely insufficient watering of tomatoes in this hot summer.

At the same time, the growth of roots in plants occurred mainly in the upper soil layer, which soon dries out and cracks, causing rapid and severe drying of the soil. In addition, with frequent surface irrigation after loosening the soil, a significant part of the roots was damaged. Therefore, with a lack of water in the soil, the plants dropped most of the ovary. Moreover, it is necessary to water only with settled water heated to a temperature not lower than + 24-26 ° C.

In no case should you water it with water taken directly from a well or water supply, especially in hot weather. Watering with such water is one of the main causes of mass disease of plants and a sharp decrease in fruit yield. Moreover, watering plants in sundial do not do it. This should be done in the evening, and with a prolonged drought - only late in the evening. And signs of serious trouble (insufficient amount of moisture in the soil) in such a tomato bed could be easily noticed earlier - this is compacted and even cracked soil, drooping leaves and tops of plants, falling ovaries etc.

Unbalanced diet

Tomatoes are very demanding plants for nutrition, especially under other conditions that are unfavorable for the growth and development of plants. Plants are very responsive to the application of nitrogen fertilizers. But with an excess of nitrogen, the growth of plants is rapid, the leaves are dark green and large, and flowering and especially fruiting are very weak. An excess of nitrogen in the soil leads to a change in the flower, its sepals become larger and brighter, and the stamen cone is practically absent. Ignorance of this mechanism of the effect of nitrogen fertilizers on tomatoes very often leads to sad consequences, especially in dry and very hot weather.

Insufficient carbon nutrition

For tomatoes, as for all plants, carbon nutrition is very important. Therefore, the air in greenhouses, especially during prolonged hot and sunny weather, when the processes of photosynthesis are intensive in plants, must be saturated with carbon.

This is especially important in greenhouses, where the soil is poorly filled with manure or humus. For this, a container for fermenting manure is placed in the greenhouse. Half of the container is filled with fresh manure (in its absence, with grass), and the rest with settled water. Such top dressing dramatically increases the resistance of plants to extreme conditions, incl. and high temperatures in the greenhouse.

“Own” seeds are not always reliable

A serious impact on fruit set, especially under unfavorable conditions (temperature, humidity), can also be exerted by “own” seeds selected in violation of the selection rules and stored in unsuitable conditions. Many gardeners themselves prepare the seeds of tomatoes of the variety they like.

This business also has its secrets, they are very simple, but such a selection of seed fruits can have its gradual and slow, but serious impact on future offspring within 5-6 years. This influence - imperceptible to the eye - usually occurs in the direction of deterioration of the variety.

What is the matter here? The main reason is that from year to year we select for seeds the largest and most beautiful (sometimes even completely uncharacteristic for this variety) tomatoes, in your opinion. Each variety is characterized by a combination of many permanent signs- there are dozens of them. And the gardener, selecting fruits for seeds, pays attention, as a rule, only to three signs - early maturity, fruit size and yield, forgetting about all other signs, including plant resistance to diseases and extreme situations. And gradually, without noticing it, he begins to unconsciously engage in "creative selection", regenerating his favorite variety. Therefore, if you see that the variety is gradually degenerating (and usually it happens), you must again purchase elite tomato seeds of your favorite variety. newspaper "Ural gardener", No. 45 of November 10, 2010

The most common diseases that cause curling of tomato leaves are: - verticillium wilt. One of the first signs of damage to tomatoes by a disease such as bacterial cancer may be leaf curling down. After the leaves have curled up, they quickly wither, turn brown and dry.

Ulcerations and cracks form on the stems, the underside of the petioles. Signs of damage to tomatoes by bacterial cancer Plants affected by bacterial cancer must be removed from the greenhouse and destroyed. To remove the plant, it is cut, the cut is treated with a solution of copper oxychloride, diluting 60 g in 10 liters of water, the root is poured with the same composition and left until the bush dries on a rope or twine, then the diseased bush is taken out of the greenhouse and destroyed.

All plants at a distance of 10 meters from the diseased must be treated with a solution of copper oxychloride (copper oxychloride, HOM), taking 40 g of the drug per 1 liter of water. Leaf curl in tomatoes can also occur when plants are damaged by tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). Tomatoes affected by tobacco mosaic virus In addition to twisting the leaf blade, with this viral disease, a mosaic pattern is formed on the leaves, in which areas of dark and light green color alternate. Also, blistering swellings that appear on the leaves can serve as symptoms of TMV. A fungal disease such as fusarium, or as it is also called fusarium wilt, can also cause twisting of the leaves in tomatoes. The first signs of the development of this fungal disease appear on older, lower leaves of tomatoes, and then move higher and higher to the top of the plant. In addition to twisting the leaf blade into a tube, the symptoms of Fusarium wilt are:

- changes in the color of the leaves to light green or yellowish; - twisted leaves fall off; - at high humidity, the plants become covered with a light bloom; - pink bloom in the area of the root neck.

If you saw most of the listed symptoms of Fusarium on your greenhouse tomatoes, then it is better to remove and burn the diseased plants, and treat the remaining plants with a solution of any antifungal drugs. In the event that you do not take any measures, the price of such inaction will be high: the death of all plants this season and, if preventive measures are not taken in the greenhouse, the same thing will happen next season. Another disease of tomatoes caused by a fungus is verticillium wilt . The symptoms of this disease are similar to the symptoms of Fusarium wilt: twisting the edges of the leaves up, changing the color of the leaves, their wilting and falling off. Only with verticillium wilt, the prognosis for plants is more favorable: despite the oppression, the plants survive until the end of the season. Verticillium wilt on a tomato

PLANTS DEFEATED BY INSECTS

The reason that the tomato leaves curl in the greenhouse can be various insect pests, such as whitefly, spider mite or aphids. When tomatoes are affected by these insects, the leaves of the plants curl up. Take tomato leaves with your own hands, especially young ones, and carefully examine them, especially from the inside.

If you see such insects as in the photo, immediately treat the plant with some kind of insecticidal preparation or use special adhesive bait traps. An insect such as black aphid can also cause twisting of the leaves. First of all, it inhabits the axils of the leaves and cannot be seen for quite some time.

In the future, insects settle on petioles and the stem itself. This insect feeds on tomato juice and injects a specific substance that causes the leaves to curl in a greenhouse in tomatoes. The method of dealing with aphids is the same as with the whitefly - careful treatment of the affected plant with insecticides, trying to treat every sinus and leaf fold. Tip: aphids and whiteflies can also be fought with natural preparations, such as tobacco infusion or a decoction of chamomile or yarrow. Now you understand that a clear and unambiguous instruction on what to do if the tomato leaves curl in a greenhouse is simply impossible. It is necessary to analyze the specific conditions in which a tomato develops and grows, to know what fertilizers and how often were applied or not, and only then draw conclusions about possible reasons twisting the leaves of greenhouse tomatoes.

Sometimes you can observe the following picture: the leaves of tomatoes begin to curl along the central vein. Why does this happen? Tomato leaves can curl with an excess of fertilizer in the soil. As a result, the leaf becomes similar to a ram's horn.

Why do tomato leaves curl? Most often this happens in the first weeks after planting tomato seedlings, when the plants take root. Gradually, during the growth of plants, and especially towards the beginning of the filling of fruits, the leaves straighten.

Therefore, this twisting does not pose any danger to tomatoes. If the twisting of the leaf is complemented by a thickening of the stem and the development of powerful stepchildren, this is a sign of excess nitrogen. Excess nitrogen harms fruit formation.

To reduce the amount of nitrogen, it is enough to water the plants abundantly once to rinse upper layer soil. At the same time, it is important that the water can leave the site, and not stagnate near the plants.

Otherwise, your tomatoes will suffer not only from excess nitrogen, but also from excess moisture. It will help to restore balance and the introduction of ash. Ash is rich in phosphorus, potassium and trace elements.

You should also know that tomatoes are strictly contraindicated fresh manure, because it promotes strong growth of plant leaves and thickens the stem, causing damage to fruit formation. It is better to underfeed tomatoes with fertilizer than to overfeed them. If your tomatoes are fattening, then you can help them shed some excess.

Do not rush with the first stepson. Let be side shoots grow up to 10-12 cm in length, and only then remove them. The second reason for twisting the leaves of tomatoes is a lack of water. In this case, the tomato leaves are twisted along the entire axis, forming a boat.

In such a situation, the plants will have to recover for a long time - about two weeks. Try to prevent this: water the plants in a timely manner, ventilate, shade if necessary. However, a viral infection may well be the cause of the second type of twisting.

Protecting plants from all kinds of infections (and there are a lot of them in tomatoes) will help you proper care for plants: timely watering, optimal temperature, light and nutrition. If you see that the tomato bush is completely withered, its leaves are twisted into strings, the flowers do not become fruits, or the plant has ugly woody fruits, remove such plants.

And in no case, after contact with a diseased plant, do not touch healthy ones! If such a problem occurs in adult tomatoes, a slowdown in plant growth is observed, then it is worth checking the temperature in the greenhouse and remembering the necessary temperature regime for growing tomatoes. As you can see, there are many answers to the question “why the leaves of tomatoes curl” - it is necessary to analyze several factors that affect the development of plants, and only then draw conclusions.

If young leaves curl, there is a deficiency of copper, sulfur, boron.If the leaves curl up, this is a sign of a low potassium content. The leaves begin to shrink, the growing point dies off, the fruits are affected by blossom end rot.

An insufficient amount of potassium provokes the twisting of the edges of the leaves down.The result of this is a rapidly developing necrosis: the small veins turn pale, and the leaves gradually begin to turn brown.

Any nitrogen fertilizers are not mixed with ash, nitrogen is lost mainly in the amide form, it evaporates into the air, take it for experiment ammonium nitrate dilute in water and add ashes, stir and smell only carefully, the smell of ammonia is guaranteed) copper oxychloride is not recommended to be mixed with detergents. Quite often it happens that the gardeners' tomato seedlings turned out to be good, and their transplantation into the greenhouse was successful.

But at some point, gardeners notice that the leaves of the tomato are curling in the greenhouse. In an effort to understand what the reason for this phenomenon is, people read magazines and books in large numbers, photos and video materials are viewed on the Internet that somehow can help in finding an answer to the question of why tomato leaves curl in a greenhouse. There can be a lot of reasons why tomato leaves curl in a greenhouse. Let's look at the main causes of such problems in tomatoes.

MAIN CAUSES OF TWISTING OF LEAVES IN GREENHOUSE TOMATOES

First, let's just list the most common causes Why do tomato leaves curl in a greenhouse:

Damage to the root system of tomatoes in the process of transplanting to permanent place into the greenhouse. Deficiency or excess of various minerals and trace elements. Excessive or insufficient watering of tomatoes. (See Drip irrigation) Incorrect pinching and pinching of tomatoes. Very high temperature in the greenhouse. Various plant diseases. Damage to tomatoes by various pests.

Now let's take a closer look at each of the reasons why the leaves of a tomato in a greenhouse curl, as well as what and how to do to correct the situation.

ROOT DAMAGE

Quite often, during the first days after transplanting seedlings of tomatoes into a greenhouse, one can observe how the leaves of tomatoes are twisted, as they say, into a “ram's horn”. This may happen due to the fact that in the process of transplanting seedlings, especially if the plants overgrown, some parts of the root system were damaged. Such a violation leads to the fact that for some time the plants restore the roots, and with them the ability to get all the necessary nutrients from the soil. nutrients.Over time, when the plants adapt and take root, such a phenomenon as in a greenhouse in a tomato leaves curl, passes.

NUTRIENTAL DEFICIENCY OR EXCESS

Deficiency as well as excess of nutrients in the soil can lead to curling of the leaves of tomatoes in the greenhouse. To understand in which case you did not “fed” or “overfed” the tomatoes with nutrients, and in which case leaf curl is a symptom of the disease, observing the plants will help. (Cm.

Top dressing tomato) Having carefully prepared the soil in the greenhouse, both in autumn and spring, many vegetable growers tend to feed the planted tomato seedlings with various organic fertilizers. Often, such top dressing is done too often. Important: you should not fertilize greenhouse beds with poorly rotted manure or slurry. The thing is that not completely rotted manure and slurry contribute to the formation of excess ammonia in the soil, which can cause both burns of tomato leaves and necrotic damage to fruits.

An excess of nitrogen in the soil is manifested not only by leaf curling, but also by a noticeable thickening of the stem and the formation of very powerful stepchildren. To deal with excess nitrogen experienced gardeners it is recommended to introduce woody, best of all stove ash into the soil. It is enough to dissolve 1 cup of ash in a bucket of warm water and spray the plants. It contains potassium, phosphorus, as well as many trace elements necessary for tomatoes.

Also, to correct the situation, you can use a solution of 1 teaspoon of potassium monophosphate, or potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water, and sprinkle each plant with this solution. Too much nitrogen in the soil causes root system tomatoes can't digest required quantities potassium, phosphorus and zinc, which are so necessary for plants.

In the event that a tomato lacks potassium, it signals this by changing the color of the edge of the leaf blade from green to brown, yellowing of the leaf veins, and also twisting it. With a deficiency of phosphorus, tomato leaves not only curl, but their veins also acquire a red-violet color , and the leaf blades themselves become grayish-green.

AT middle lane Russian tomatoes are often grown in greenhouses. To make the harvest pleasing to the eye, you have to put in a lot of effort - timely water, feed, weed, tie up, ventilate, etc.

Reasons Why Tomatoes Don't Turn Red

Very often summer residents wonder - it seems that there are many and large tomatoes, but every one of them is green. What is the problem? Let's figure it out together.

On average, each fruit takes about one month to ripen. But only under the conditions of agricultural technology. The following errors often occur:

In normal development, the fetus first brightens, then turns orange, and only then turns red. Temperature plays an important role in all stages. With its value below +15 and above +35 C, the production of lycopene, which is responsible for fruit ripening, practically stops. As a result, the fruits will either remain green, or only turn slightly yellow, but not turn red properly.
A large amount of ultraviolet light can also slow down the redness of tomatoes. The fruits are literally fading. Around the peduncle, characteristic yellow stains usually form.
The other side of the coin is disadvantage sunlight. Often the problem occurs with excessively thickened plantings. Density also entails overheating and the rapid spread of diseases of a fungal and viral nature.
A delay in ripening can be caused by both a lack and an excess of fertilizers and important micronutrients. Usually, ripening is delayed with an excess of nitrogen or a lack of potassium.
In some cases, the characteristic yellow spots in the stalk area are just a feature of a particular variety.

What to do to make tomatoes pour faster:

In order for the tomatoes to turn red faster, the greenhouse should be kept closed more often. Those. the heat in this case will play into the hands. It is necessary to ventilate for several hours in the morning, so that the condensate accumulated during the night can completely evaporate. Additionally, you can ventilate the greenhouse in the evenings for a couple of hours.
If the problem is caused by overcrowding, corrective pruning. You can cut the leaves in half or remove them completely. As soon as the tomatoes brighten, all the green mass from the bottom of the bushes can be cut. From mid-July, all top dressing of tomatoes should be completely stopped.
With a lack of iodine, several sprays should be performed with a solution based on it (35 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water). Often, iodine supplementation corrects the situation with delayed fruit ripening.
Remove all stepchildren in a timely manner. The lower leaves and shoots down to the lowest fruit clusters can also be cut off.
Mature fruits actively release ethylene, as a result of which the green "brothers" begin to quickly pour. Therefore, do not rush to pick single red fruits if there are still many green tomatoes around them.
Many summer residents recommend picking still green fruits and ripening them at home. With the right approach, you can harvest a fairly rich harvest, because the plant will not need to spend energy on ripening large fruits. By the way, we use exactly this approach.

I really hope that the above tips will help you solve the problem with the final ripening of the crop. If you know of any other methods, if possible, share them in the comments.

Many gardeners in the Northwestern regions this year noticed that tomatoes ripen very slowly, do not ripen, do not turn red, and generally pour for a long time and remain green.

Despite the fact that this summer is much warmer than the previous one, the number of cloudy and rainy days has increased. Moreover, periods of bad weather fell just at the time of mass flowering - in early June, and in mid-July - at the time of mass fruiting. If last year many gardeners have been picking red tomatoes since the end of June, now, in early or mid-July, the tomatoes are just beginning to pour, and they also ripen on the bush for a long time.

This happens for several reasons:

Removal and non-replenishment of nutrition at different stages of tomato growth.
Unfavourable conditions - high humidity and low illumination.
Influence of soil pH and soil temperature.

The bulk of the nutrition is absorbed by tomatoes before the start of abundant fruiting. If during the period of seedling growth, phosphorus was more necessary for tomatoes, and nitrogen during transplantation and before flowering, then during flowering, the first ovaries and fruiting - potassium and calcium.

The role of potassium.

Proper nutrition with potassium guarantees not only healthy plants, but also the correct color of tomatoes, taste and proper development of the brush, i.e. without wrinkling, which applies not only to large-fruited, but also to ordinary varieties.

During the period of growth, from planting to pouring fruits on the lower brushes, tomatoes consume a huge part of the nutrition available in the soil. Thus, the main amount of top dressing that you have made since transplanting seedlings is eaten. When forming the second and third brush, the tomatoes no longer have enough of the volume that remains in the soil. Accordingly, the tomatoes on the lower brushes ripen for a long time, often with green shoulders, and the upper ones become smaller and pour in color for a long time.

With a potassium deficiency, tomatoes lose their water-holding capacity, while increasing the water consumption necessary to build up a normal green mass. This is due to the fact that potassium, together with calcium, regulates the processes of moisture saturation of the plant.

Therefore, during the period of fruit ripening on the lower hands and the formation of ovaries on the upper ones, it is necessary to increase potassium and calcium supplements. This is, first of all, top dressing with an ash solution, which can be either root (after the main watering) or leaf processing.

Poor lighting and humidity.

In low light and high humidity, potassium consumption by tomatoes increases dramatically. Moreover, under these conditions, nitrogen consumption is reduced.

Tomatoes underfed with potassium, even under conditions normal humidity soil-air and on sunny days, lose turgor. As a result, their overall resistance to low temperatures and sensitivity to fungal diseases increases, the growth of stepchildren also slows down.

So, with prolonged cloudy and rainy weather, the need for potash top dressing increases dramatically.

Soil pH and impact on nutrition.

In an acidic environment (PH less than 4-5), the entry of calcium, potassium, magnesium, and phosphorus into tomato plants is difficult. That is, plants cannot pick from the soil right amount these elements. In this case, oxides of iron, manganese, aluminum, toxic to plants, are formed.

In an alkaline environment (PH 8-9), plants do not absorb the same calcium, iron, magnesium and phosphorus. That is, tomatoes can take the right amount from the soil, but they cannot process them.

For normal vegetation, tomatoes need a slightly acidic environment.

Ground temperature.

Soil temperature is one of the factors affecting the intake and processing of plant nutrition. For tomato growth, + 17 + 20 is optimal. With large temperature deviations, for example, during cold nights or hot dry days, the ability to assimilate phosphorus and nitrogen slows down up to two times. And only potassium is absorbed by plants, regardless of soil temperature. Therefore, under conditions of abnormal soil temperature conditions, tomatoes will not be able to absorb both N-P-K and microelements in a balanced way.

Why tomatoes do not turn red in the greenhouse - a question of interest to many gardeners Greenhouse growing conditions vegetable crop allow you to enjoy a rich harvest much earlier. But still, a large amount of effort has to be exerted so that the crop ripens in a timely manner, is not spoiled by pests and is not affected by various fungi. On the issue of growing a tomato crop, sooner or later, gardeners wonder why tomatoes do not turn red for a long time in a greenhouse. It is worth exploring this issue in a little more detail.

- Why do tomatoes not turn red in a greenhouse?
- What to do to redden tomatoes in the greenhouse
- Tomatoes do not ripen in the greenhouse: methods for accelerating ripening
- Why tomatoes are not poured in the greenhouse
- Possible reasons: why tomatoes do not turn red in the greenhouse (video)

In total, it takes about a month for the full development and ripening of a tomato. But this period will be such only if the conditions of agricultural technology were not violated, and the gardener followed all the advice for the grown tomato variety. If the reddening of a vegetable goes badly, it is due to growing errors in the greenhouse design.

It takes about a month for the development and ripening of a tomato.

Errors can be as follows:

If the growth is correct, then the tomato initially becomes light, then gradually acquires an orange tint and already at the end becomes its natural color. This will happen if the growing conditions have not been violated, in particular, this applies to the temperature in the greenhouse. If the temperature regime is lowered below 15 ° C or raised above 35 ° C, the synthesis of the so-called lycopene will be completely disrupted. This is main reason why tomatoes do not pour and turn red when growing in a greenhouse structure. Instead of being red, the skin will be yellow-orange, and a round trace of a greenish-yellow tint can be seen around the stem.
The next reason why tomatoes in a greenhouse structure do not sing well is the strong effect of ultraviolet radiation. Tomatoes literally lose color. They do not have time to ripen, but simply baked in the sun. Yellow stains can be seen near the stalk. This problem concerns not only the middle summer period and early varieties but also the end of summer.
Another reason why tomatoes do not ripen well is a shortage. natural light in a greenhouse. When the seedlings have thickened too much, the fruits simply do not have enough light to bask and sing as they should. This can lead to the development of diseases and the appearance of pests.
The next point is the deficiency or excess of fertilizers. If there is too much nitrogen in the ground or there is not enough potassium, ripening will be slow, the tomatoes in the greenhouse will be small, unripe. The gardener will be able to notice that the green mass becomes a bronze hue, and dries up at the tips of the leaves. Small, empty tomatoes are the result of improper plant nutrition.

And finally, yellow spots in the stalk area (long and incomplete ripening) can sometimes be a feature of the variety. Most often, it is observed in hybrids that were bred not so long ago.

What to do to redden tomatoes in the greenhouse

Now that it is clear why tomatoes do not pick up color in the greenhouse, you can turn to ways to speed up ripening. In order for the fruits to turn red faster, the greenhouse must be kept closed.

The heat will not harm the fruits, but there are no more flowers on the seedlings.

But in order to maintain an optimal microclimate, the greenhouse structure must be ventilated in morning time approximately 2 hours. Then the tempera will be stored correctly, and all excess moisture it will disappear over time (after all, condensate will definitely accumulate during the night). If there is such an opportunity, then the greenhouse should be ventilated in the evening, also for a couple of hours.

In order for the tomatoes to turn red, a comfortable microclimate must be maintained in the greenhouse.

The following points will signal that the seedlings have thickened:

Tomatoes ripen for a long time;
Do not gain redness;
Maturation is uneven.

In such a situation, circumcision is important. This is a fair measure for bushes planted at a distance of approximately 30 cm. The sheets must be cut completely, or cut in half. When the tomatoes become light (the so-called milky ripeness), you need to cut off the green mass from the bottom of the bush. It is also necessary to stop fertilizing seedlings after about July 15th. These measures will not allow the bushes to put the pitchfork into the green mass and slow down the ripening.

Tomatoes do not ripen in the greenhouse: methods for accelerating ripening

If the tomatoes do not ripen well, you must immediately take action. To prevent tomatoes from growing green, you can take simple tricks.

What we do:

Orientation in the sun. In order for the seedlings to receive the maximum useful autumn sun, it is necessary to cut off unnecessary foliage, and turn the branches towards the sun. On a trellis, this event is easy to do using garter material.
Feeding with iodine. Why aging is slow, there is another reason - iodine deficiency. Feeding can improve the situation. It is necessary to perform a couple of foliar green mass fertilizers with a weak solution of iodine - 35 drops per bucket of water.
Food restriction.

To speed up the ripening of tomatoes, they can be fed with iodine.

In the latter case, the following must be done: with the help of surgical intervention, it is necessary to limit the seedlings in nutrition. In a plant at a height of 100 mm from the soil, a through cut must be made. It is necessary to insert a plate of wood into it. It will restrict the inflow and outflow of nutrients. You can use copper wire. With the help of it, the stem must be carefully pulled across. These methods should help.

Why tomatoes are not poured in the greenhouse

There are several other ways to improve the ripening of tomatoes in a greenhouse. Trimming stepchildren and lower foliage - you need to do the following: cut off all new shoots and foliage from the bottom to the brushes on which the tomatoes are already ripening.

For better ripening, tomatoes must be pinched

Prevention of late blight. AT autumn period seedlings should be sprayed to prevent infection. For this purpose, garlic solution is used. If seedlings are planted in open ground, they should be covered with PE film at night. If an unripe one is placed next to ripe tomatoes, it will begin to turn red. This is explained by the fact that a mature fellow releases ethylene, which acts as a catalyst. The fruit next to the “example” is capable of acquiring a natural color in 3 days.

Stimulation with alcohol - if you pour 0.5 ml of vodka into the nest of a green tomato, it will begin to ripen faster, after 14 days the tomatoes will turn completely red. Alcohol accelerates redness. If the cold suddenly came, and there are unripe tomatoes on the seedlings, the plants must be dug up and moved to a garage or barn. Then the process of color set and maturation will continue. Cutting new flower stalks - closer to autumn, new flowers and buds on seedlings are not needed. It is also necessary to remove all inflorescences.

Possible reasons: why tomatoes do not turn red in the greenhouse (video)

By following the above measures, you can get red, juicy and ripe fruits that are suitable for salads, preservation, first and second courses. Effort will be rewarded!

We will talk about 8 simple ways speed up the redness of a tomato, available to absolutely everyone. The first 4 methods are mandatory, the rest are optional.

How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes

No. 1. Pick the first reddened fruit. After that, everyone else starts blushing sharply!

No. 2. Trim the leaves to the first brush. On tomatoes, it is necessary to bare the stem to the first fruits so that the bush is well ventilated. It will be enough to leave a couple of leaves on top.

It is also the easiest way to protect tomatoes from late blight. It is from the lower leaves that touch the ground that this disease most often begins.

No. 3. Pin the crown after tying the brushes with fruits. This is done so that all the nutrients go only to the filling and ripening of the tomatoes.

#4: Minimize Watering a month before harvest. And if the climate allows, then stop watering altogether. With minimal watering, the fruits grow tasty and sugary, sourness and wateriness completely disappear.

Important: on deep soils ground water and in the sultry dry summer watering is indispensable.

Also significantly improves the taste of tomatoes spraying with soda: 1 teaspoon of baking soda per 1 liter warm water. Spray once a week. We previously wrote about .

№ 5 . Spray with iodine. After this simple procedure, the tomatoes turn red faster, receive additional feeding and protection from phytophthora.

Tomatoes crack from sudden changes in soil moisture

№6 . Spray with ashes. To make the tomatoes sweeter and ripen faster, they are fed with an ash solution: 1 glass of ash + 10 liters of water. No need to insist. Pour the ashes into a bucket of water, stir well, and immediately pour under the root. One plant will require about a liter of solution.

Important: Tomatoes can be fed with ashes only after preliminary watering. Otherwise, the roots will get burned, especially if the plants have not been watered for a long time.

If you practice a complete rejection of watering during the ripening of tomatoes, then you can sprinkle with ashes leaves and fruits.

In this case, the dosage is reduced by 2 times ( half a glass of water per 10 liters of water). Mix thoroughly, strain and spray the tomatoes in the evening or on a cloudy day. This is also protection from viral diseases and phytophthora.

№7 . Sprinkle with potassium humate. Potassium humate is used for additional nutrition and for tomatoes to ripen faster.

Standard dosage: 10 grams of potassium humate per 200 liters of water. First, dilute the powder in 2 liters hot water, stir very well and leave for a couple of hours.

Then pour this working solution into a barrel and pour strictly under the root. Make sure that moisture does not get on the leaves, so as not to provoke the appearance of phytophthora.

You can water tomatoes with humate every 10 days. This fertilizer will speed up the ripening of tomatoes, the fruits increase significantly in size, and their taste improves.

Potassium humate is a cheap and completely natural preparation. It contains a lot of potassium and a whole list of trace elements that tomatoes need during the ripening period.

№8 . Put apples or bananas under a bush or in a box with plucked green tomatoes. These fruits secrete special substances that contribute to the rapid ripening of tomatoes. By the way, .

Another option is to put green tomatoes in a box mixed with leaves walnut . walnut leaves secrete special substances, thanks to which the tomatoes in the apartment ripen quickly.

Water generously. Tomatoes do not like sudden changes in humidity. You can not overdry the soil, and then generously water. This cracks the fruit. It is better to mulch the soil under the tomatoes with hay. Under the mulch, moisture is retained much longer, the earth does not crack from the heat and does not become covered with a crust.

And in hay there are special bacteria that. During fruiting, it is better not to water the tomatoes.

Feed with nitrogen. From the second half of summer, tomatoes cannot be fertilized with nitrogen in any form. Mullein, chicken manure, green mass infusion, mineral nitrogen fertilizers are not used.

Tomatoes will increase their green mass, not fruits. And such top dressing worsens the taste of the fruit. Even if your climate allows you to grow tomatoes until late autumn, still apply only potash-phosphorus fertilizers.

Earlier, we wrote about