Jamaica cocktail Mix rum, Southern liqueur, 0.5 ml lemon juice, 0.5 ml raspberry juice. Ingredients: rum - 40 ml, Yuzhny liqueur - 20 ml, lemon juice - 0.5 ml, raspberry juice -

The first spring inspection of bee colonies Having placed the hives, first of all they observe the flight of bees, and then they examine the colonies, starting from those hives where the bees flew around worse. When examining the bees without disassembling the nest (by eye), the strength of the family is established - by the number of frames,

How to prepare a protective cocktail? For 1 liter of water, you need to take 2 grains of homeopathic preparations Healthy Garden and Ecoberin, 2 drops of the Zircon biological product, 4 drops of Uniflor-buton liquid mineral fertilizer in a chelated form (the most easily and fully used by plants

This is a calendar of the main work to be done on the site during the growing season from spring to autumn, as such work comes due. These terms are dictated by nature itself, and they do not depend on the Moon or the signs of the Zodiac, which are so fond of astrologers and some amateur gardeners. To some extent, they do not depend on the calendar dates for the onset of spring in different regions, not only of our country, but also in many parts of the world. It is interesting that they depend little even on the temporary whims of the weather in a given area.

The fact is that nature has its own timing for the onset of certain events, followed by others, and, most importantly, the intervals between them are maintained from year to year with enviable constancy. So the flowering of some plants follows the flowering of others at a certain interval, which does not change under any circumstances. weather conditions in this locality. In the same way, the ripening of berries and fruits occurs after a certain interval from the beginning of flowering of a completely different plant. And nature stubbornly maintains this interval from year to year. Delayed start of flowering signal plant, the terms of fruit ripening will also shift on a completely different plant through an interval once and for all determined by nature. When I drew attention to this constancy, I decided to create a work calendar that could be used anywhere, in any year, in almost any weather.

Chapter 1
The natural sequence of the beginning of flowering of different plants

First, let's take a look at some information. They are given for the Leningrad region, but they can be used to create your own calendar in any region. So when you see the data for the Northwest, don't rush to close the book.

Average statistical data on air temperatures in the Leningrad region

The average daily temperature is above 15 degrees in the Leningrad region from June 16 to August 23, that is, the growing season lasts only 67 days, and during this time the total amount of positive temperatures is only 1159 degrees, while in the Moscow region it reaches 1500 degrees.

This is average data. Naturally, the temperatures of the current year in different regions within the same region, and even more so in different regions, may differ somewhat from them, but the sequence of the beginning of flowering of different crops is very stable. Taking some phenomenon as a starting point, for example, the flowering time of the coltsfoot in your area, you can very accurately determine the flowering time of other crops.

To begin with, it would be nice to clarify the data given here for the Leningrad region in the first year for your area, then check them on next year.

Use this table to calculate the number of days between the flowering of coltsfoot and, for example, blackcurrant.

This will be 40 days. Suppose your coltsfoot bloomed on April 10th, which means that blackcurrants will bloom in 40 days, that is, on May 20th, and after that strawberries will bloom exactly 8 days later (for this, you need to calculate the number of days from the beginning of flowering of blackcurrant to the beginning strawberry blossoms). In the same way, you can determine the beginning of the flowering of an apple tree and take timely measures to protect apple trees from frost or pest attacks.

The most curious thing is that in any other area the beginning of flowering of the coltsfoot, although it falls on different dates, the intervals between the beginning of its flowering and the beginning of flowering of all subsequent crops remain the same from year to year.

You can draw up such tables yourself for your area for the current year, and the intervals between the flowering of plants will be maintained from year to year with unchanged constancy.

As soon as the coltsfoot has bloomed on your site, take a sheet of paper and write down the timing of the start of flowering of all subsequent crops. For those plants that are not listed in this list, but grow in your area, enter the timing of the start of their flowering in this list. In your list, immediately indicate the date of the expected event, so that later you do not get confused in the calculations.

What is it for?

Firstly, before flowering, 2-3 days before, you can spray plants protectively from frost, from pest attacks, since the period of their exit from winter shelters is closely related to the blooming of leaves on their breadwinners or the beginning of bud isolation (coloring them in pink color).

Secondly, knowing the phenological terms of plant development, you will be able to properly organize their watering and feeding, take protective measures against diseases and pests in time, and not when all the leaves are eaten or the plants are affected by diseases. After all, these troubles do not appear by themselves, but are clearly planned by nature. For her, it is important that "the wolves are fed and the sheep are the goal."

Chapter 2
Create your own work calendar for the current year

This is the calendar that you yourself will create for your particular site each year based on the first year's entries.

The countdown begins, as already mentioned, with the flowering of the coltsfoot (or hazel and hazel, since they bloom at the same time as the coltsfoot).

Every spring in each region, they bloom at their own time, which cannot be rigidly designated by any specific number. The start of flowering of the coltsfoot varies all the time depending on the past winter, and it is impossible to say exactly on which day it will bloom.

But here's what's interesting: no matter what date it blooms, the timing of the flowering of many crops is tied to it very strictly. And you can set in advance exactly what date this or that culture will bloom exactly, so the flowering of the coltsfoot is the starting point for the start of flowering of other plants. Since hazel and hazel bloom simultaneously with coltsfoot, the beginning of their flowering can be taken as a starting point. It is only necessary to notice in time that the flowering of the coltsfoot (or hazel) has begun.

For convenience, compile for yourself a table of the timing of flowering and ripening of fruit and berry crops using the data below, and in your table you need to put not the number of days, but immediately the date of the onset of an event.

Let's say the coltsfoot (or hazel, hazel) bloomed on April 15, then large-fruited garden strawberries (illiterately stubbornly called strawberries) will bloom on your site in 48 days, that is, June 3. At the same time, a beardless remontant strawberry will bloom on the site and in the forest - forest. It will ripen in your area 70 days after the start of flowering of the coltsfoot, that is, June 25th. You can also go to the forest for wild berries at the same time. Leave a space between the lines of the table, you will enter who, where from the pests flies and, accordingly, the measures that need to be taken to protect plants. So your calendar will look like this.

Calendar of your worries

Beginning of flowering coltsfoot(insert date).

Sowing in the soil of all cold-resistant crops (carrots, parsley, dill, petiole and leaf celery, lettuce, black onion, sorrel, radish).

Preparing potato tubers for planting.

Spray with "Ekoberin" or "Epin-extra" coniferous crops and evergreen rhododendrons for sunburn, repeat spraying weekly if needles or leaves begin to turn yellow or darken.

it's the same best time for planting and transplanting coniferous plants.

A week before bud break on blackcurrant(put the date) all swollen large round buds on blackcurrant should be picked (they are clearly visible on bare branches). They contain the larvae of the kidney mite. If you are late, the buds will open and the tramps will spread over the young buds. The next year, the entire branch will have to be removed, so on a separate line, put the date of collection of the kidneys infected with the tick, counting back a week from the date indicated in the next line.

Bud break on currant, red rowan, birch

Spray these plants with a protective cocktail (or at least Fitoverm) against aphids that are spread by ants.

Against ants, drip gel against beetle pests (ants, cockroaches) on the trunks of mountain ash, apple trees, cherries, plums, stems of black currant, peonies and roses closer to the soil.

In addition, there is a spring flight of sawflies on an apple tree, pear, plum, currant, gooseberry, therefore, they also need to be sprayed. On some varieties of gooseberries, a white coating may appear on young leaves. This is American powdery mildew (spheroteca). If urgent action is not taken (spray with a protective cocktail or at least "Zircon": 6 drops per 1 liter of water), then the dew will move to young ovaries and, in the end, the berries will be covered with a gray dense felt coating. Spraying should be repeated on young ovaries and after harvesting berries. No pouring of boiling water from the sphere library saves. This is just an established delusion (but, as they say, “no facts can refute established delusions,” and therefore you want to wash the bushes with boiling water in the spring - wash, there is no harm from this, although great benefit- too).

The ends of the branches of the red currant must be sprayed with Fitoverm especially carefully, since there are eggs of the red-gall aphid, which causes raspberry swelling on the leaves of the red currant.

Spray seedlings of umbrella crops (carrots, parsley, dill) with "Fitoverm" against the umbrella psyllid, which causes twisting of their leaves. Umbelliferous psyllid hibernates in cracks in the bark of conifers. For wintering of all pests, and not just psyllids, pine bark is especially convenient. So do not plant a pine tree on the site.

If crops of cold-resistant crops are immediately covered with lutrasil, then spraying of seedlings against psyllids is not required.

Make a preventive spraying with a protective cocktail (or at least Fitoverm) of strawberry plantings against weevil.

You can sow seedlings in a greenhouse for medium and late ripening cabbage, cauliflower and broccoli, beets, annual flowers (marigolds, marigolds, ageratum, nasturtium, mallow, salvia, gypsophila, zinnia, Drummond's phlox and others).

At the same time, seeds of cold-resistant flowers can be sown in the ground: cornflowers, bluebells, cosmos, poppies, including escholcia, chamomile, petunia, nemesia, mattiola, annual asters.

The beginning of cherry blossom(insert estimated date).

Begins 27 days after the start of flowering coltsfoot.

During the flowering of bird cherry (or immediately after the end of its flowering), potatoes can be planted.

In addition, seedlings are planted in the ground cabbage, sow peas, beans, onion sets. Under the film shelter, you can sow the seeds of zucchini and squash, cucumbers, pumpkins on insulated soil (or compost) (or plant three-week-old seedlings cucurbits) under double cover nonwoven fabric such as lutrasil or spunbond, acrylic.

This time is suitable for planting trees, including conifers.

A week after the bird cherry begins to bloom (just before the gooseberry begins to bloom), spray cherries, plums, pears, apple trees early varieties, gooseberries, red and black currants with a protective cocktail, additionally adding the preparation "Ovary" (or "Bud") to it in case of damage to buds and flowers by frost. Put the appropriate dates on this line.

After the flowering of the currant, after about a week, either small yellow dots or large orange warts may appear on the leaves. Small dots cause spores of the columnar rust fungus, which overwinters on conifers, and large dots cause goblet rust, which passes from sedge. It would be nice to mow the sedge in the nearest district in advance. At the first sign of the disease, the bushes should be sprayed with Zircon (since you have to fight the disease, preventive measures can no longer be dispensed with, it is necessary to make a solution of a higher concentration: 6-10 drops per liter of water). It is advisable to spray the plants from the underside of the leaves. To do this, it is convenient to use the corner nozzle for the Fog sprayer.

Immediately after flowering of bird cherry, transplant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants into a greenhouse under double cover with non-woven materials (set the expected dates).

Sowing in the open ground of leguminous crops.

10 days before gooseberry blossom gooseberry bushes, red and black currants should be sprayed against the gooseberry moth, the butterfly of which lays eggs in flowers. As the ovary grows, the hatched caterpillars feed on their pulp, crawling from one to another, and each can destroy up to 8-10 berries. Mark in advance for yourself the date of the appearance of the pest, counting back 10 days from the date in the next line.

gooseberry blossom(insert the date).

Begins 37 days after the start of flowering coltsfoot.

Red currant blossom(insert the date).

It starts 2 days later than gooseberries.

During the flowering of gooseberries and red currants, it is still possible to transplant seedlings of tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers into the greenhouse, covering them with an additional double non-woven material in regions where there are return night frosts.

Transplanting seedlings of broccoli and cauliflower, as well as Brussels sprouts in open ground (where severe frosts are possible, it is necessary to cover the plantings with single lutrasil), sowing kohlrabi cabbage in open ground.

Immediately after planting seedlings, it should be sprayed with a protective cocktail.

Young plants of cabbage (cruciferous) crops can be attacked by a cruciferous flea (a small bug with a metallic sheen that hibernates in the soil). Against a flea, you can use a solution of any shampoo for washing cats and dogs from fleas: 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. Covering plants with lutrasil does not save from fleas, since it comes out of the soil, and does not fly in from nowhere.

At the same time, you can plant onions in open ground (set the estimated dates).

Black currant blossom(insert the date).

It starts 40 days after the start of flowering coltsfoot.

At the time of flowering, check for bushes that are sick with terry. Such a bush should be immediately dug up and burned. It's incurable viral disease, which small sucking insects can transfer with their saliva to other currant bushes and destroy all its plantings. For other plants, this virus is not dangerous.

Please note: if flowering branch blackcurrant dries out, then inside is a glass larva. The branch must be cut to the very ground and burned. On the cut, the black middle of the branch is visible - this is the excrement of the caterpillar, which has burned out the core.

When turning the leaves of viburnum (red and bulldenezh), it is necessary to carry out preventive spraying with a protective cocktail or at least Fitoverm. On these plants, karbofos (or Fufanon) can also be used, although I am against the use of pesticides on the site.

Pay attention to the blooming raspberry leaves. If they have a mosaic color (yellow-green), then the bush is infected with an incurable viral disease. It should be immediately uprooted and burned to avoid the death of all nearby plantings of raspberries.

Cherry, plum and pear blossoms(insert the date).

Begins 41 days after the start of flowering coltsfoot.

A week before this date, cherries, plums, pears and apple trees should be sprayed. summer varieties a protective cocktail and additionally the drug "Ovary" (or "Bud") in case of damage to buds and flowers by frost. Preparations "Ovary" and "Bud" can simply be added to a protective cocktail (do not forget to indicate the date in advance).

If suddenly, literally overnight, the leaves and individual branches on the cherry dry out, then this is a fungal disease of stone fruit crops - moniliosis. It usually appears in cold, damp spring. Urgently remove the affected branches (although leaves reappear on them later, but they turn yellow and fall off at the height of summer), spray the plant with Zircon (10 drops per 1 liter of water). Spraying will have to be repeated after flowering on young ovaries and after harvesting. Usually it is possible to save the leaves, but not the berries - they crack and rot.

During cherry blossom, the raspberry beetle lays a larva in the buds of raspberry flowers, yo goes spring vegetable fly for all plantings of vegetables.

Spray raspberries with Fitoverm.

Spray vegetable plants with Fitoverm or a protective cocktail along with Fitoverm.

Summer apple blossoms(insert estimated date).

Begins 43 days after the start of flowering coltsfoot.

At the same time, the larva of the raspberry fly takes root in the tops of young raspberry shoots (they wither and lean towards the ground). Such infected shoots must be cut to the ground and burned. Please note that if there are a lot of young shoots, but it does not grow, then this is an incurable viral disease of the witch's broom. A diseased bush should be dug up and burned. If the soil from under the bush is taken out to the fire and replaced with fresh one, then raspberries can be planted in this place again, otherwise it cannot be grown in this place for another 4 years.

Spray strawberries with a protective cocktail (or at least Fitoverm). This is done for additional protection of strawberries from the weevil, which comes out of the soil after wintering, as soon as the temperature in the upper soil layer has warmed up to 8 degrees Celsius (respectively average daily temperature air rose to 10-12 degrees Celsius). In addition, it is necessary to add the hormone gibberellin (the drug "Ovary" or "Bud") to the solution, as well as some drug that helps the plant to endure frosts ("Ecoberin", "Epin-extra" or "Novosil").

Cover plantings of strawberries with lutrasil in case of frost.

strawberry blossom(insert estimated date).

Begins 48 days after the start of flowering coltsfoot.

Spray the lilacs on the buds with Ecoberin against frost.

Spray apple trees of autumn varieties with a protective cocktail.

lilac blossom(insert the date).

It starts 50 days after the start of flowering of the coltsfoot (6 days after the start of flowering of summer variety apple trees).

Sometimes lilacs at the time of flowering fall under late spring frosts (where they are). Its flowers do not tolerate frosts below 2 degrees. But closed buds are not afraid of even minus 4 degrees, so 2-3 days before flowering, spray lilacs with a drug that helps the plant to endure frost (4 drops of Epin-Extra or 6 grains of Ecoberin per 1 liter of water).

Blooming red rowan(insert the date).

It starts 2 days after the start of lilac flowering.

Red mountain ash blooms one day later than lilac, it is believed that after the full flowering of mountain ash, late spring frosts end.

End of return frost(insert the date).

Sowing beets in open ground.

Sowing zucchini and pumpkins in open ground.

Sowing cucumbers in open ground.

Autumn apple blossoms(goes 5-7 days later than the early ones).

Apple blossom winter varieties (goes 5–7 days later than autumn).

Prophylactically spray them with the "Ovary" preparation.

7-10 days after the end of flowering of the apple tree, it should be sprayed with Fitoverm on young ovaries, since the apple sawfly and codling moth begin to lay an egg on the ovary. The hatching larva bites into the ovary and spoils it. The sawfly eats passages in the growing pulp of the fruit, staining them with excrement.

The codling moth eats out the growing seeds in the seed box, then descends on the cobweb to the ground, crawls onto the tree and takes root into the next ovary. So, one codling moth larva can damage up to eight apples. Often damaged ovaries simply fall to the ground. At night, the larva gets out of the carrion and climbs the tree again, so in the evening the carrion should be collected and taken to compost, and trapping belts should be placed on tree trunks.

The easiest way to make such a belt is from a piece of film. Wrap the barrel with a film, tie it in the middle with twine, bend the top of the film down. Caterpillars will not be able to crawl over the bent part.

There are very unusual way apple pest control. At night or late in the evening, when it gets dark, lay a film under the tree. Put on a hat and, squatting near the trunk, point the flash up along the trunk, turn on the flash twice in a row. Stunned by the sudden light, pests will begin to pour down from the apple tree, only a rustle is standing (that's why a hat is needed).

Until they recover from the shock, quickly fold the film, take it into the house and just crush the pests there. Probably, this way of dealing with freeloaders may seem very funny, but nevertheless it is very effective.

Spray raspberries with a protective cocktail on the buds a week before flowering, count back 7 days from the date indicated in the next line.

Raspberry blossom(insert estimated date).

It starts 63 days after the start of flowering of the coltsfoot or 2 days after the flowering of the lilac.

During the flowering of raspberries, a gall midge flies, which hibernates inside swellings - a gall on raspberry stems.

Repeat spraying with a protective cocktail with the addition of "Fitoverm" raspberries and all fruit and berry crops.

Strawberries should be sprayed with a protective cocktail (without "Fitoverm") or at least "Zircon" against the disease of berries with gray rot. Two days after spraying, the berries can be eaten.

From the moment raspberries bloom, you can re-sow carrots, black radish into the ground, plant beets, plant mustaches of strawberries that have overwintered along with mother bushes, plant seedlings of strawberries grown from seeds.

Current page: 18 (total book has 23 pages) [available reading excerpt: 13 pages]

How to prepare the notorious "spring cocktail"?

“Who is talking about what, but the chicken is about millet” - again about the “spring cocktail.

Let's go back to this one more time, as the saying goes, "Repetition is the mother of learning."

For the preparation of the almighty cocktail 2 grains of the drug healthy garden, 2 grains of the drug Ecoberin shake in 100 g of water until completely dissolved, add water to one liter, add 2 drops Zircon and 4 drops Uniflor-growth(or Uniflor-bud), mix thoroughly and spray over the leaves.

If there were a lot of pests last summer, then add 6 drops to the solution Fitoverma, and if frosts occur at the time of flowering gardens, then add gibberelin there at the tip of the knife (it is contained in preparations Bud, Ovary And Hypersib).

healthy garden, being a unique regulator of biochemical processes in cell sap, normalizes the ratio between proteins and carbohydrates, so that pests do not touch such a plant. Similarly, they do not touch healthy plants, whose cell sap is dominated by proteins rather than carbohydrates.

In nature, everything is expedient, there is always a balance between pests and their food, in her, as they say, both the wolves are full and the sheep are safe. Why did she create these pests at all? And then, to finish off weak plants and prevent them from leaving behind weakened offspring, because in the end this can lead to the degeneration of an entire plant species on Earth. Nature, however, does not tolerate vain work, and therefore seeks to preserve all the created species of flora and fauna. Therefore, only the strong survive in nature, the weak have no place on Earth. Pests were created in order to prevent the weak from leaving behind offspring. Therefore, pests feed mainly on carbohydrates, since in weakened plants protein synthesis is slow, which means that the ratio between proteins and carbohydrates that exists in a healthy plant is disturbed.

In this way, healthy garden practically protects plants from pests.

What does Ecoberin? It helps plants to quickly adapt to external temperature changes. A sharp change in temperature, a large difference between day and night temperatures, frost, drought, prolonged cooling, and so on cause plants to become stressed, which inhibits protein synthesis, and therefore leads to a weakening of the plant. And of course the pests are right there.

If there are not enough macro- and microelements in the plant, then the protein is formed in insufficient quantities, which again causes an attack by pests, which is why urgent foliar feeding of plants is required in the earliest spring period. Generally speaking, any complex fertilizer is suitable for this, but it works best Uniflor-growth. This unique fertilizer is literally an ambulance for plants, firstly, because it is quickly absorbed by the green leaf and, secondly, it is also quickly absorbed. Uniflor growth contains all the macro- and microelements necessary for the plant in a chelated form, that is, in the most accessible form, which allows the plant to quickly produce proteins.

If in the previous season you had a plant that was sick or was attacked by pests, then you can add 2 drops to this cocktail. Zircon and 5-6 drops Fitoverma in the same liter of water.

Zircon contributes to the self-defense of the plant against diseases, and Fitoverm works against pests. All drugs are compatible, and most importantly, and Zircon, And healthy garden enhance the effect of all drugs against pests. All recommended drugs are of natural biological origin, and therefore are practically harmless.

Is it possible to replace these drugs with something? Instead of healthy garden will have to apply Fitoverm in a higher concentration (according to the instructions for each type of pest) and additionally Zircon(4 drops per liter).

Instead of Ecoberina can be used Appin-ext-ra or Novosil(2-3 drops are enough), instead of Uniflora use Cytovit(4 drops), Narcissus(half a cap per liter) or any complete mineral fertilizer. But in order not to cause leaf burn, it should be taken 10 times less than you usually take for root dressing.

Instead of Fitoverma pest control can be used spark bio(exactly bio, and not any others with the name Spark, because all of them except sparks bio, are strong chemical poisons).

Further healthy garden plants can simply be watered around the perimeter of the crown (weak - every 2 weeks, strong - once a month). Moreover, you can immediately prepare a solution for the whole summer at the rate of 2 grains per liter for a whole barrel (that is, 200 grains per 100 liters of water), in which you insist weeds or green grass, and stir well. Solution healthy garden will not lose its wonderful properties the whole summer. But the rest of the drugs should be used by spraying the leaves. Zircon should be used in case of a mass disease of one of the diseases, for example, powdery mildew or botrytis. Epin-extra useful to use in all sorts of weather troubles, Fitoverm or spark-bio apply in case of a mass attack of pests. But at the same time, the concentration should be doubled and even tripled against the one used in the cocktail.

With poor growth and development of plants, it is useful to use Ferovit And Siliplant. Ferovit- this is the organic iron that the plant needs to form chlorophyll in the leaves (the same thing happens when using healthy garden). BUT Siliplane is organic silicon (it also contains the drug Energen), necessary for the strength of plant tissues, especially the walls of conducting vessels. In addition, in the composition Siliplanta includes 8 more essential trace elements in chelated form.

But you should know that you can not combine more than three biological products in one solution at the same time. For example, in a solution Ferovita, Zircon And Epin-extra can no longer be added Fitoverm. In addition, they cannot be used in alkaline environments. For example, you can not add them to a solution of ash, sodium or calcium nitrate.

You can also use a modern effective complex Narcissus(consisting of chitosan obtained from crab shells, succinic and glutamic acids, and also containing essential trace elements in chelated form).

First of all, do not forget that fruit trees and berry bushes also have quite good decorative qualities, and if properly placed in the garden, they can very well create a very cozy place. Just don’t plant too many of them so as not to clutter up your small area.

How to create a cozy and easy-to-care ornamental garden in a small area

Coniferous plants - garden decoration

Coniferous crops, which are now in great fashion, slowly grow for the first few years, but then grow strongly both sideways and upwards, and therefore, when planting them, this should immediately be provided for, because in an adult state it will be almost impossible to transplant them and will have to cut down, otherwise they will simply survive you from own garden. Therefore, do not make a close landing and do not plant a lot of them, especially since they are expensive. Don't chase the trendy ones, get the ones that grow steadily in your area without any problems. Planted and forgotten, and no maintenance. They will grow on their own. This, of course, is their great advantage. It is only important to place them correctly and plant them. At first, while they are small, you will have a great desire to fill the space between them with other plantings. Hold on and do not plant such plants, which will then be difficult to transplant to another place, and where is it on six acres? Perennial flowers that do not require deep planting pits (for example, bergenia, hosts, aquilegia, cornflower), of course, can be planted, but then they still have to be removed. This will just coincide in time with their transplantation, since most herbaceous perennials still need to be planted, replanted, rejuvenated about once every 4–6 years, and by this time coniferous plantings will grow up. Of course, roses, clematis or peonies, Kuril tea (perennial cinquefoil) should not be planted among conifers, but rhododendrons like to grow among conifers (but not among spruces), and so that they cover them not only from the south, but also from all sides. Rhododendrons grow and bloom especially well under the crowns of pines (and cedar too). However, rhododendrons are by no means for lazy gardeners. They are just very capricious plants and expensive. So I can't recommend them to you. Do not plant among conifers and ornamental shrubs. They can easily be planted among apple or pear trees.

And do not seek to turn your site into a collection garden - you have too little space for this, even if you start collecting plants in your garden with only one or two species. And your site is not suitable for a collection of conifers, that's for sure, and therefore get by with thujas. In the northern regions, western thuja grows well. It is pyramidal and spherical with green needles or yellow, but there are also white tips. And do not plant everything, but only a couple of those that you choose. It is quite possible to supplement the assortment of conifers with conic (it must be planted under protection from the midday sun), dark green juniper growing vertically upwards, and creeping needles with a blue color, either cedar elfin (more stable) or shrub juniper (less stable). But don't plant scaly junipers because they are very picky and grow very slowly. For the company, you can plant a mountain pine or blue spruce, and this will already be too much. You can plant conifers in a group, creating a corner (the size of a quarter of the site) from these plants together with rhododendrons. If you immediately leave enough space, then you can plant hydrangeas. This neighborhood is convenient because all these plants require acidic, moist soil and moist air, and most of them prefer partial shade. Such a garden will require almost no maintenance.

To plants that also do not require care and will good neighbors for conifers, they include all types of ferns, thick-leaved badan, aquilegia (catchments) and their relatives - cornflowers. Both of the latter types of plants reproduce well by self-sowing, so you don’t have to take care of rejuvenating or transplanting such a flower garden. Astilbes with aruncus are quite suitable.

Conifers are planted and transplanted in the very early spring. In the northern regions, the most suitable time is the end of April - the beginning of May. We usually bring spruces and pines from the forest. And there is a danger of ruining the plants. Spruce has a shallow root system, and pine has a tap root system, so the pine must be dug out especially carefully, because the torn off central root will no longer be restored and the tree will be bad, if at all, survive. Pine growth can be restrained if the central root is tied with a weak knot immediately upon transplanting. Siberian cedar is also a pine, so it does not tolerate transplants well. It is best grown from a nut, and it can sprout in the second year. Pine nuts should be freshly picked, so buy a pine cone in the fall, put in warm place and, as soon as it opens, plant nuts, wrapping them in sphagnum moss. The planting site should be free from weeds, the planting depth should be about 4 cm. The cedar should be transplanted into place when it has a poppy head with five needles, that is, at the age of one or two years, without damaging the central tap root. Junipers also have a tap root, so adult plants cannot be transplanted. In the forest near an adult plant, you need to find a one-year-old plant, you can dig it up and transplant it. By doing this, you will even save him from death, because the young shoots of juniper, like oak, need a shadow, so there are quite a lot of them under large trees. But then the grown plants need the sun, and the mother plant shades them, so usually the grown plants in the mother's shade begin to die. Junipers are listed in the Red Book, that is mature plant juniper cannot be dug up in the forest with impunity and taken away. Fines for violating the law on their protection are large, and most importantly, you will destroy an adult plant during transplantation, as they say: neither yourself nor people.

All conifers should first be dug up, then finally dug up, carefully transferred to a fabric (only not synthetic), tied into a weak knot so that the roots do not bend, transported and immediately planted in a prepared hole without untying the knot.

Thuja has a compact root system, so it is easier to transplant it and it takes root better.

All conifers are moisture-loving, prefer partial shade (and spruces can generally grow in the shade), acidic soil and moist air. True, cedar prefers the sun. That is why the northwestern regions are quite a suitable place for them.

Do not feed coniferous plants mineral fertilizers or ash (the exception is fertilizer AVA). It is impossible to deposit under them and fresh manure, since these fertilizers will destroy the microfungi living on the roots of conifers, which, with their secretions, protect these plants from the death of roots and bark. Microfungi will die - conifers will also die. Many of these plants are very afraid of the sun. spring burns. They should be covered with old sheets or systematically sprayed with the drug. Ecoberin, as soon as the weather is sunny. Especially severe burns occur when there is still snow, which enhances solar radiation due to reflection. In the northern regions, the sun usually appears at the end of February. And in order not to fool yourself with these problems, immediately plant conifers so that from the south they are covered with buildings or other plantings.

ornamental shrubs

No garden is complete without ornamental shrubs. Beautiful flowering shrub gives a powerful positive emotional coloring, gives a wonderful inner charge, such that in the depths of the soul there is a feeling of joy and happiness. Despite the fact that they bloom early and short, and almost most of them have little decorative appearance after flowering, it is nevertheless very pleasant to have two or three early-flowering plants in the garden that bloom one after another. Of course, it is best to plant unpretentious plants. Unfortunately, of the huge variety of ornamental shrubs in the northern region, very little can be used for landscaping. I will tell you about all those that can be grown in cool climates. Maybe with a little tweaking. But most often - just planted, and let it grow, it's very important point, because shrubs die mainly due to late spring frosts. Early spring ornamental shrubs bloom before the leaves appear, and when young leaves begin to appear - and then all of a sudden - and late frosts, causing the death of the leaves. Ornamental shrubs also do not tolerate winter thaws very well. Temperatures around +4 °C for 10-12 days in the middle of winter deceive them, and they begin to wake up. And then frost again, which is very bad for these plants.

Daphne

Begins to bloom Daphne in April, when there is still snow in shady places. Daphne very beautiful in single plantings, but it is also beautiful in a group with other plants. Generally it is called Daphne vulgaris, but she has a common name - wolfberry, wolf's bast. Name wolfberry Daphne received for my poisonous berries. The name wolf's bast was given to it because the bark is very easily removed from it, but this bark is very, very strong to tear. If you want to break off Daphne part of the stem, then you cannot do this, and in order to put a bouquet of flowering Daphne into the water, you have to take a secateurs. Daphne- This is a low shrub, not more than a meter high, which blooms even before the formation of leaves. A very strong peduncle is thrown out, which is all strewn with bunches of flowers in two or three pieces. The flowers are small, lilac-pink, very similar to lilac flowers, completely covering last year's shoots, so cut Daphne Not recommended. The most charming thing about them is that they are the very first and earliest, exceptionally beautiful, and, most importantly, they have a wonderful aroma. Then, after flowering, beautiful light green leaves appear, which are collected in a rosette at the ends of shoots 7–8 centimeters long. In July-August, on the site of the former flowers, oval coral-red berries ripen, the taste is completely vile. Cause burning on the lips and tongue. Their venom is similar to snake venom, that is, it causes paralysis of the nervous system. From one berry, of course, nothing will happen, and if someone just tried a berry, he immediately wants to spit it out because of a strong burning sensation on his lips, naturally, nothing bad will happen. But if someone eats a handful of these berries, then you will have to take emergency measures to save them. So I don't usually recommend having Daphne, in any case, when the peduncle fades, you need to take a pruner and cut off the entire faded part so that berries do not form. Because children see very beautiful berries and always try to taste, so it is a very dangerous thing. Keep berries out of the way, even if you personally don't have children or grandchildren. There are strangers around.

Children have a very keen eye, they will see something very beautiful, tasty, in their opinion, and they can try it. These berries are very elegant, they sit very tightly at the ends of the branches, and in autumn the plant looks extremely impressive with them. Daphne found in the forest, so you can dig it up and plant it in your garden. Even if you bring a rundown plant from the forest and plant it on good, organic-rich soil, it will turn into a beauty in two or three years. Moreover, the bush itself forms, it acquires a spherical shape, and the color of the leaves becomes very intense.

Besides, Daphne It spreads well both by self-sowing and by sowing seeds, the maturation of which occurs immediately after flowering. That is, at the end of September, you remove these berries and immediately sow them shallowly, about three centimeters into the soil, while it is better to place them less often. Plants usually germinate the following year. It happens, of course, that plants are delayed with germination, but most often they immediately sprout in the spring. At the end of the summer, you can transplant them wherever you want. It grows slowly from seed. Daphne shade-tolerant, so do not plant it in full sun. She is hygrophilous. In the hot dry summer it will have to be watered. flowering time Daphne coincides with the flowering time of the blue liverwort, or hepatica. This is a wild forest. It also grows in the forest and in the shade. And if you are before landing Daphne plant a hepatica, then Daphne looks very beautiful in spring against the background of these purple leaves, blue flowers, standing upright on short pedicels. This beautiful composition looks great all summer long.

Japonica

This, of course, is not a real quince. True quince is a tree with large fruits. genomeles- This is a low shrub that also blooms in early spring before the leaves bloom, usually in early May. Flowering lasts approximately three weeks. Large, fiery flowers, reminiscent of apple flowers in shape, are collected in bunches of two or four, densely densely covering bare three-year-old shoots. There are also garden molds with pale pink flowers. Neither bulbous nor early flowers should be planted under quince, because the bush is spreading a lot due to the fact that it gives a lot of root offspring. I do not advise cutting them, let the bush grow freely. Excess, of course, can be removed if they start to spread too much. To do this, you need to dig up the soil to the very mother bush, then cut off the underground shoot. If you just cut off the shoot from above, then it will grow again.

There are two types of this shrub: there are undersized, about a meter high, it is called Henomeles Maulea. The shrub has a drooping shape. And there is a high for the northern regions up to two and a half meters, which is called Chaenomeles Japanese. This plant is not suitable for the northern regions, because any quince freezes above the level of the snow cover, so it is better to plant a shorter one Henomeles Maulea, in which only the top freezes. It has to be cut out, but the lower part of the bush is preserved, and most often flowering occurs in the center of the bush. It is not necessary to admire the beautiful flowering, since the bush in the center is densely overgrown and, in order to see its flowering, the plant must be constantly thinned out. Quince has very beautiful foliage. It is green and glossy, shiny all summer, turning red in autumn. In winter, you need to cover it with something, tie lutrasil on it, and after the winter it is very early to untie it, since it is not afraid spring frosts. In other words, quince requires annual attention. It can be planted along the paths, at the corners where the paths intersect. At all, genomeles cuts beautifully. If you want to make a low green fence, then you can use this plant for this purpose, as it is prickly and heavily overgrown. It is very difficult to get through it for any enemy, like someone else's small dog or cat, chicken or goose. It is customary to make such low border fences in the Baltic States, Finland, and Norway.

The flowers sit very tightly, and if you missed a little, then a huge number of small fruits are formed, which literally cannot be torn off, except together with the bark. If you want the fruits to be larger, then at the flowering stage, when young ovaries have just formed, and the flowers themselves still look great and you really don’t want to cut them off, you still thin out the flowers so that they are located about 4– 5 cm apart. That's when you get fruits the size of a little less than a chicken egg. These are already fruits, otherwise you will grow a bunch of little things the size of peas or a bean, and they are of no use. There is one small subtlety here: you can’t miss the early autumn frosts to catch the fruits on the bushes, after frosts the fruits become brown, tasteless and unsuitable for anything. In general, quince fruits are exceptionally fragrant, they are edible, but they have a very large core around the seed box - a drupe, on which you can only break your teeth. You can use the core only for making drinks, by the way, very tasty. The pulp, which covers this drupe with a thin layer, needs to be cut with a knife, sprinkled with sugar and folded into jars that can simply be covered with tracing paper or parchment and put on an elastic band. Until the spring, all the vitamins are stored in such a jar, if you put it in the refrigerator. This is a vitamin plant, especially there is a lot of vitamin C in it, no less than in a lemon, and the taste is no worse than that of a lemon. In the spring, when there are few vitamins and jam is already tired, and there are few vitamins there, you take a couple of spoons of planed quince, put it in tea instead of lemon and get a divine drink. You fill the drupes with water, about three times more than the drupes, bring to a boil for strong fire, then reduce the heat and boil for 5-7 minutes. Strain all this, put sugar to taste and get a wonderful drink.

Quince can be propagated by seeds, sowing them in the fall, and it will begin to bear fruit in three to four years. If you sow in the spring, then do not forget that you need a three-month stratification. The easiest way to propagate it is by root offspring. The roots of the offspring are located very close to mother plant, from which horizontal layers without roots extend quite far underground. Well cuttings in the most common way. You can divide the bush only in the place where you chopped off the part. Sections should be covered with ashes so that the infection does not get into these wounds.

Quince is best planted in the sun, but it will also tolerate shade. You need well-fertilized, moist soil. The plant does not tolerate drought very well - it will immediately wither. In drought it is necessary to water. genomeles does not like fertilizing with mineral fertilizers, except for ash, you do not need to use anything. Ashes should be taken no more than half a glass under a bush and brought in in the fall. At the same time, you can add a third of a bucket of rotted organic matter along the perimeter of the crown of the bush. Since the entire sucking part of the root system of all plants is located along the perimeter of the crown, fertilizers must be applied there, nothing needs to be applied to the center of the bush.

You can graft one quince bud either on a rowan stem or on a pear stem grown from seeds. You take a stock about a meter and a half high and plant a quince. This is usually done in August. You get a luxurious beautiful bush, which will have to be wrapped for the winter with several layers of lutrasil. If you plant a quince on a mountain ash, then you can plant any early spring flowers under this plant. Daffodils are tubular, which will bloom almost simultaneously with genomeles, will look very impressive. You can also plant arabis, even white, even pink.