Gardeners often ask the question: “What ornamental shrubs bloom all summer?” Without hesitation, I can name three of my favorites - the queen rose, the charming cinquefoil and the beautiful hydrangea. Today we are talking about hydrangeas. Its luxurious flower caps cover the entire bush from June to late autumn, depending on the variety.Such species as tree-like, paniculate and new varieties of large-leaved hydrangea grow and winter well in our climate. Large-leaved hydrangea of ​​the "Endless summer" and "Forever and ever" series - remontant. If the flower buds that these hydrangeas lay in the fall even freeze, you will only lose the first early flowering. On the shoots of the current year, the shrub will bloom, only a little later. The shrub impresses with its stamina and endurance. Hydrangea is undemanding in care, rarely affected by pests and diseases. Use in landscape design has endless possibilities. But just a miracle, how good!
The choice of hydrangea varieties is now huge. We invite you to winter time place an order for what you like. Now you can buy hydrangea seedlings with a closed root system, which you can safely plant in open ground until mid-autumn.
So, the variety is selected, the seedling is bought. The question arises before us: where and how to plant, so that our beauty becomes the favorite of the garden and pleases with lush flowering for a long time. For all its unpretentiousness, the plant will still require care and attention.
- For landing, we choose a sufficiently lit place, but without scorching sunlight, a slightly sunny area. The most shade-tolerant of hydrangeas is tree-like. An “openwork” shadow is suitable, which can be provided by the faithful companions of hydrangeas - conifers or other shrubs. The distance from them to the seedling is at least 1.5 meters. Otherwise, the hydrangea root system will always need moisture and nutrition, which will take powerful tree roots. The place should be quiet, calm, where there will be a lot of snow in winter.
- I am preparing a landing pit 50 * 50 cm. The distance between the bushes is 1.5-2m. Even though the shrub in your pot is not very large, take the trouble to dig a “decent” hole and fill it well. We plant the plant for years!
- When buying a seedling, pay attention to the presence of buds. If they don't, good! It will take root better and grow the root system faster. Seedling with buds. You do not raise your hand to cut them. I want to see flowering in the first year of planting! Then do not drastically change the growing conditions of the plant. In order for such hydrangeas to flourish in the future and grow their root system, when planting, the ground in the region of 20-25 cm should be ideally brought closer to the substrate in which the seedling grew in a pot. Avoid sudden changes in soil structure. Strictly 1 time in 10 days, water with fertilizer "Gumistar" - a water extract from biohumus. Effective when used in evening time, as it contains not only vitamins and amino acids, but also living soil microorganisms ( sunlight kills them).
- Soil mixture. Hydrangea is a lover of acidic soil, pH within 5.5 units. If the indicator is 6,7,8 units or more, the plant will always have problems with the absorption of nutrients. As a result, leaf chlorosis will begin and the shrub will stop developing. I mix garden soil, high-moor peat, rotted coniferous litter in equal parts, add compost or, better, biohumus. For loosening we use sand, agroperlite, coconut peat. I prefer finely chopped sphagnum moss or rotted pine bark, which will create an ideal soil structure. The soil should be loose, air and water permeable, and should not contain alkaline compounds. Do not add ash, chalk, lime.
- Translated from the Latin hydrangea - hydrangia - a vessel with water. She is very fond of drinking. In order not to constantly stand over it with a watering can, and this is especially true for those who do not live in the country permanently, I use a hydrogel. This is a polymer in granules, capable of absorbing and retaining in a swollen state a huge amount of moisture with nutrients dissolved in it (for example, I use "Gumistar" or the preparation "Dachnik"). Moisture does not drain into the underlying layers of the soil, does not evaporate. This allows you to water plants, especially moisture-loving ones, much less frequently. Reduces the loss of nutrients, prevents them from being washed out of the soil. The gel envelops the roots of the plant and food is always there.
- Before planting, I soak the seedling in a solution of the growth stimulator HB-101, 15-20 drops per 10 liters of soft water (for hydrangeas we do not use hard water from the water supply, we defend, it is better to rain) until the lump becomes heavy and no longer stands out air bubbles from it. I take out the plants and lightly shake the root system with my hands so that the spores of symbiont fungi from the soil in which the seedling grows quickly settle in the new place where the shrub lives.
- At the bottom of the planting pit, I pour drainage with a layer of 7-10 cm. I put the seedling in the pit and fill it with half-prepared soil. Pour abundantly with the solution in which the plant was soaked .. So we will avoid voids. The water has been absorbed, I fill up soil mixture and compact the soil. I deepen the root neck by 1-2 cm, no more.
- I make a near-stem circle, where in the future I pour water until the hydrangea takes root. I spill the soil in a radius of 1.5 meters around the seedling. The root system of the shrub is superficial and branched.
- I spread HB-101 granules on the soil in the trunk circle, which will work until autumn, providing the plant with excellent immunity.
- I immediately mulch with a layer of up to 10 cm. Mulch - best friend gardener. Protects from drying out, serves as additional nutrition, prevents fungal and viral diseases. Yes, and earthworms love to settle under it. The best mulch for hydrangeas is high-moor peat mixed with coniferous litter in a 1: 1 ratio, rotted pine bark. If these materials are not available, mulch not with freshly cut, but with “withered” grass so that it does not touch the root collar of the plant. I spill the mulch once every 10 days with a solution of the Vostok EM-1 preparation, 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of non-chlorinated water.

Love your beauty, take care of her and she will answer you with colorful, lush flowering.
The sapling is planted. How to take care of him? We will talk about this in the next article: "Menu for the "Beautiful Lady" of the garden"

Zoya Maksimenko,

FERTILITY, Chelyabinsk

Hydrangea is considered winter-hardy species. Breeders and authors of varieties claim that the plant can withstand temperatures from -20 to -30 degrees Celsius. A decent experience in growing an exotic elegant shrub has been accumulated. In the conditions of the North-West, the Urals, not to mention the Moscow region, even non-insulated specimens winter well.

At the same time, the sad practice of many hydrangea lovers suggests that the shrub often freezes out in relatively warm weather - as little as 15-20 degrees below zero. Similar incidents happen in the southern regions, even in the Black Sea region. Probably, every case of plant death is caused by objective reasons. This article may be useful to those who want to understand the problem and achieve results.

Varieties are different, the problem is one

The literature provides various ways warming hydrangeas. Some operations must be performed for all species, some - only for certain varieties.

There is a difference between the types of hydrangeas. For example, large-leaved plants have a longer growing season. In addition, garden microphylla lays a flower bud in September, paniculate hydrangea in March-April. In the first case, the gardener must take measures to protect the tops of the shoots from frost burns. In the second, it is enough to insulate the stems and the root system: if at least one branch survived the winter, the plant will bloom.

But the reason given is just a special case. The example does not explain why shrubs of the same variety have different frost resistance.

Maybe it's about relationships. Hydrangea grows to decorate: most of its flowers are barren. The shrub is wasteful: it spends too much energy on a stormy long flowering. Sometimes they are not left for development. If we immediately succumb to the charms of hydrangea and forget about tomorrow's winter, then we will face a problem: we insulated, but we did not succeed. Why?

1. Probably because our bushes are weak.
2. It is possible that the shoots are plentiful, and the roots are frail.
3. Or vice versa: the root system is powerful, and the foliage is short.

Mature stems overwinter well. This means that the plant must have sufficient energy to develop, gain strength and bloom.

Why does hydrangea freeze?

The reasons may be subtle. Here are examples.

The landing site was chosen in a lowland - and cold flows there. Or vice versa: a bush crowns the top of a blown hill.

1. Perhaps you have put organic matter under the root, and for some reason the worms do not process it into humus. It is known that plants do not absorb nutrients from undecomposed manure.
2. The composition and amount of mulch affects the survival rate: flower roots are close to the soil surface. They can partially freeze in a snowless winter.
3. Does the composition of the top dressing correspond to the stage of plant development: excess nitrogen provokes the growth of shoots, potassium and phosphorus contribute to the absorption of calcium, lignification of trunks. Disproportion generates an imbalance of development.

Based on our experience, in this article we will try to:

Select all the necessary preparatory stages for pre-winter flower care;

Determine the list of activities at each stage;

Assess their effectiveness.

In the end, you yourself will choose which methods to use to warm the hydrangea.

General rules for care for all types of hydrangeas

Frost resistance garden hydrangeas depends on two reasons:

From the ability of the roots to provide the bush with sufficient nutrients;

From the vitality of the shoots, the strength of the structure of the branches.

From the first day of appearance young seedling the florist continuously solves the primary task - how to create the most favorable environment for the shrub for development and subsequent wintering, during which the hydrangea will not freeze out.

Seven Facets: Successful Hydrangea Care Factors

In order for the luxuriously flowering bush not to freeze in the cold winter, it is necessary not only to think over ways to shelter the hydrangea, but also to create optimal conditions for it in advance for the growth and ripening of shoots.

1. Bush locations - where there is no draft. A corner near a fence, a windward wall of a barn, a bench, an ornamental garden structure will do.

2. Illumination - light shading. The best place where the sun is before noon.

3. Access to moisture. Hydrangea loves abundant watering. Plant it 1.5-2 m from fruit trees otherwise there will be too much competition for moisture.

4. Soil - nutritious, slightly acidic, with a fairly loose, but not sandy structure - useful material should not be washed out. The best place for nursery macrophiles is the edge of the compost pit.

5. Adaptation of the root system. Roots in the nursery are accustomed to receiving an abundance of high-calorie substrate. The depleted soil of the garden poorly stimulates secondary petioles to develop. In order for the system to grow, the hole is expanded, made more than 50 cm. The soil structure is modified:

To improve permeability, crushed stone with sand is added;

To increase nutritional value - peat, dry foliage, humus, fertilizers.

6. Hardening, training of stems during the first three years according to special agricultural technology:

The young sapling grows freely in the first summer: broken, crooked, inward-growing branches are kept for it.

They put it in the cellar for the winter. Dungeon - the optimal environment: a stable temperature of 5-7 ° C, complete calm.

In March, a pot with a one-year-old plant is returned to the room. When the leaves bloom - in late June or early July, the stems are cut off: they stimulate the growth of shoots and the development of roots.

On the next year the procedure is repeated;

In the third year after the May-June frosts, the hydrangea is planted in the ground.

7. Feeding shrubs with fertilizers in digestible form. Since fresh mullein is poison for a plant, with a lack of experience it is better to exclude manure. It will be successfully replaced by rotted grass the year before last, forest litter, or the best option - biohumus. Dilute the mixture with 100 g of superphosphate - this complex will be enough for good nutrition.

Proper nutrition is the key to a successful wintering of hydrangeas

The roots are responsible for filling the stems with nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen - construction material for proteins. Shoot cells, fruits, deciduous mass, all this is protein. Calcium, potassium - substances responsible for the protection of protein cells, for the strength of cell walls and connective tissue. Phosphorus promotes the absorption of minerals and trace elements.

The soil is needed not just nutritious. IN different time a given composition of top dressing is required. IN early period- when ripe, the plant is fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. In autumn, hydrangeas are fertilized with phosphates and potassium.

Signs of the abundance of each substance are determined by the color of the leaves:

1. Yellowed foliage - nitrogen is needed. Urea, saltpeter are introduced into the diet.
2. Turquoise leaves - add superphosphate.
3. There is a slowdown in growth, a light border appears on the edges of the foliage - they are fed with chloride or potassium sulfate. Complex fertilizer - Potassium humate.

Preparing (pruning) hydrangeas for wintering

Leaves are cut off the stems. It is better not to touch the inflorescences - in the spring they can be removed before the first flowering bud. The same can be said about radical molding. If the plant is too thickened, you can sanitize - remove diseased, weak shoots.

However, the final decision - to cut or not to cut remains with the owner. The next pruning will be possible only in late spring, when the green mass appears.

The choice of insulation method for hydrangeas, taking into account the basics of winter heat transfer

Bush shelter options are different. These can be pits, tubes, sheds. With any method of wintering hydrangeas in the garden, at least two layers of insulation are used.

1. The first - a mandatory layer should cover the roots. Located on the surface, they need sound insulation. A mound of peat, compost 8-10 cm thick is the most suitable thermal protection.
2. The second layer is snow. It has been proven that fluffy white mass is the best heat insulator. The temperature on the soil surface under the snow canopy is on average 10-13 degrees higher than in the atmosphere. In most cases, the soil cools down to only 5-10 degrees of frost. Therefore, flower buds will be more comfortable when they are located below the snow cover.

Frost Shields

The following technology for warming hydrangeas is considered the most effective and least labor-intensive.

On one or both sides of the bushes are laid wooden shields with protruding pegs along the edges.

A straw roller is placed under the base of the bush. The stems are carefully leaned on the straw and laid on the shields.

The shoots are fixed - with the help of a cord stretched between the pegs, or pinned. You can lay out the shoots in a fan or in a bunch.

Pour insulation - straw, foliage, peat; cover the whole structure nonwoven fabric. Fixed with another shield.

Digging in a hole

Tear off a trench next to the flower. Hydrangea is dug up, placed in a hole, covered with a box, covered with turf, straw. A shield is laid on the pit, covered with a vapor-permeable film. Pressed oppression - bricks, logs.

Frameworks

For tall climbing species, frame frames are made. This method is suitable for frost-resistant climbing or tall varieties. Allows you to keep the temperature of the bush at the level environment. Otherwise, the trunks containing moisture, due to its evaporation, will be additionally cooled - by 3o-5o relative to air. This method is categorically not suitable for garden large-leaf hydrangea.

Hydrangea pruning according to Tim Bebel - for guaranteed flowering after winter

An innovative method, discovered by an American florist, is gaining popularity every year. He suggests pre-winter pruning of hydrangeas in the summer so that the flower buds have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. The essence of the technology is simple.

Non-flowering stems in July are shortened to the lowest lateral bud. Thus stimulate the bookmark flower buds on shoots and in the underground part of the plant.

The rest of the stems are cut in October - only a third of the length. It turns out a compact bush, which is easy to insulate. Such - they bloom with a 100% guarantee.

For the active growth of shoots, shrubs formed by this method need enhanced fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers - from spring to August.

Beautiful hydrangea flowers. And unassuming. They decorate gardens with a luxurious bright variety, and in return they demand ... attention. Agree: it is difficult to call the usual human attitude to the flower "care".

Many plants find it difficult to grow and develop in harsh environmental conditions, even with careful care. However, planting hydrangeas in Siberia is quite possible. But not all varieties of this plant will be able to survive in such conditions. Therefore, before planting, you should carefully consider what kind of this bush to buy.

Types of hydrangeas that can be grown in Siberia

First of all, you should pay attention to where exactly the bush was grown. The most successful will be the purchase of those seeds or seedlings that were originally grown in the northern regions.

Two types of hydrangea are especially resistant to frost: panicled hydrangea and tree-like hydrangea. Particularly good indicators of stability in the first. So, in Siberia there are already more than 20 types of hydrangeas of this type. These include:

• Limelight;
• Pink Diamond;
• Magical Flame;
• Magical Fire.

All varieties differ in their color and size of inflorescences. But plants can also vary in size. So, for those who have a small garden, it will be enough to grow a species such as Bobo hydrangea on their site. This variety is considered one of the lowest, and in full height can only reach 65 cm. There are those that are slightly larger, but are still considered dwarf: Vanilla and Sunday Fresh. The growth of such a hydrangea does not exceed one meter.

The above varieties do not require for themselves special care, however, if you have some free time, you can start planting weaker plants, which, if they survive frosts down to -35 °, then the likelihood that they can continue to bloom will be extremely small.

Because of this feature, the paniculate hydrangea of ​​weak species and other varieties of this plant are specially dug up in the autumn and stored all winter in a cool room, and when spring comes, it is planted again in open ground.

How to choose the right seedling

When buying seedlings, you should pay attention to the fact that hydrangea in Siberia should always, even when sold, be in the ground. At the same time, the lump in which the roots are located should not be liquid or, conversely, too dry. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the hydrangea, despite proper care, may not take root and die.

It is best, if the plant is kept in Siberian conditions, to acquire sprouts immediately before planting begins. Therefore, it is best to go to the market or to the store for them in the spring, as soon as the last frosts have passed.

Where to plant hydrangea in the garden

In order for the hydrangea - no matter whether it is tree-like or paniculate - to take root in the conditions of Siberia, before planting begins, it is worth deciding on the place where it will grow.

First of all, it is worth making sure that there will be no plant in the place of future growth. strong winds. In addition, the direct rays of the sun adversely affect it, therefore, a shadow should fall on the landing site for most of the day. Most best option- if the hydrangea is located near the fence or wall of the house.

The soil at the place where the planting will be made also greatly affects how exactly the bush will grow, how often it will need care, especially when it comes to Siberia. The ideal option for hydrangea is slightly and medium acidic soil. The components of such soil should be:

• leaves;
• sand;
• peat;
• sod land.

The most undesirable is alkaline soil, since the hydrangea takes root extremely poorly in it.

Once the site is chosen, you should begin to prepare the ground for further landing plants.

Soil preparation

In order for a seedling to take root, it is necessary to properly prepare the soil for planting it. If the landing is carried out correctly, then the bush will require less maintenance. First of all, it is worth digging a hole in the ground, which should correspond to the size of the plant.

Depending on the growth, it is necessary to dig holes of the following sizes:

1. small seedlings need a pit square section, 50×50 cm;
2. if the plant has already grown, then in order to be able to plant it freely, a wider pit will be required, with sides of 80 × 80 cm.

Depending on the size of the roots of the plant, the depth of the pit can vary from 40 to 60 cm.

In order for the hydrangea to take root better, it is necessary to pour 2-3 buckets of water into the pit, and then leave it overnight so that all the water is absorbed.

After the hole is dug, it must be filled again, but with a special mixture, which includes:

• 2/6 - peat;
• 2/6 - fertile soil;
• 1/6 - sand;
• 1/6 - humus.

Fertilizer can also be mixed with them, consisting of:

• 25 g of urea;
• 65 g of superphosphate;
• 25 g of potassium sulfate.

In the mixture, in order to acidify it, you can add spruce or pine needles and fill the entire hole with it. It is important that there is no lime in it, since the hydrangea does not tolerate it, and immediately begins to die.

Planting a plant in the soil

Before you start planting, you should slightly shorten the hydrangea roots and cut off excess shoots. So, the plant can have shoots up to a maximum of 5–6 buds.

The plant is installed in a new place and added dropwise with soil so that the neck of the hydrangea root is at ground level. Thing is, the bush doesn't like it when she's on outdoors, but also deepen it experienced gardeners do not recommend. To increase the chances of plant roots, it should be watered again.

In order for the plant to take root well, after planting, a mixture of needles, leaves and peat mulch should be placed under it. This will allow the soil to stay moist longer.

If the place where the plant was planted is not illuminated by direct rays of the sun and is reliably protected from the winds, then the period for which it will take root will be much shorter.

Hydrangea Care

Hydrangeas after planting practically do not need care. But still, in order for the plant to be healthy and strong, some gardeners resort to little tricks.

First of all, it concerns watering. The soil around the bush should always be moist, because the hydrangea loves water very much. You can add a little potassium permanganate to the watering can, but not more than a gram per liter. Such care for hydrangeas in Siberia helps the plant bloom profusely.

To keep water in the soil for as long as possible, the area around the bush can be covered with dry foliage and sawdust.

Care also includes regular feeding hydrangeas. This will help her produce more lush inflorescences. You can carry out top dressing 4 times a season.

The bush does not like monotony, so two types of fertilizers can be used.

1. Organic. As organic fertilizer liquid manure may be fine. But you shouldn't overdo it, because a large number of this fertilizer can adversely affect the inflorescences.
2. mineral fertilizers. They are added little by little. One bucket takes 20 or 30 grams. IN total for irrigation with fertilizers should take at least 2 buckets.

The fertilizer itself can be found in a store specializing in garden plants. They sell mixtures specially selected for care in Siberia.


So, planting and growing hydrangea in Siberia is quite realistic. But in order for it to grow and give lush inflorescences, you will have to work a little.

If you choose the right variety and give the sprout proper care, then it will be able to grow and delight the gardener for several years.

Hydrangea is a southerner, in Siberia it is found mainly in room conditions, but some gardeners manage to grow this plant in open field. About the secrets of care, proper fit, the use of hydrangeas in garden design will tell our review.

Varieties, varieties of hydrangea

There are about 35 known species of this beautiful perennial plant. One can only dream of growing most of them in Siberian conditions and admire them in the photo. But on the other hand, there are many varieties of tree and panicle hydrangeas that tolerate our frosts well.

Hydrangea paniculata

Cold-resistant varieties of paniculate hydrangea

Here are the following varieties:

Varieties of tree hydrangea adapted to the conditions of Siberia

Such varieties of tree-like hydrangea tolerate the winter well:

Planting hydrangeas and proper care in cold climates

The best survival rate in seedlings at the age of 5 years. For their good growth, it is necessary to create a special microclimate: protect from the wind, plant in slightly or medium acidic soil, consisting of leafy soil, turf, peat, sand, provide good lighting. To plant a hydrangea correctly means:

• prepare seat 0.5 x 0.5 x 0.5 m in spring;
• leave a distance between the bushes of about 250 cm;

hydrangea seedling

• shorten the roots, and cut the shoots, leaving a few buds;
• do not deepen root collar;
• water abundantly;
• cover the soil with mulch.

Attention: hydrangea is also called hydrangia, which sounds like a "vessel for moisture." This speaks of her special love for water, so regular watering comes first.

Pruning frost-resistant hydrangea

Of great importance for hydrangea is correct pruning. Pruning of varieties growing in Siberia is carried out in the spring before the awakening of the buds begins or in the fall after leaf fall, while:

Hydrangeas need to be pruned every year.

1. Remove old, mostly with weak shoots, branches and undeveloped shoots.
2. On strong shoots that have grown this year and coming from the ground itself, 4 to 5 buds are left.
3. The stems that have developed on old branches are shortened to 3 buds.

Tip: An old hydrangea bush can be rejuvenated by applying heavy pruning and removing all the shoots, down to the old wood.

Fertilizers and dressings for hydrangeas

Top dressing will make flowering abundant and long. Suitable for hydrangeas, liquid manure in moderation, balanced mineral fertilizers - 25 g per 10 liters of water when watering. Under an adult bush, 3 buckets are poured.

During the season, 4 top dressings are carried out: at the beginning of sap flow, during budding, in July, in autumn in preparation for wintering.

Shelter and preparation for wintering

Without shelter, hydrangea will not overwinter. Set it up like this:

1. Covering material or spruce branches are laid out under the branches, the stems are bent down and covered.
2. Pour a 20 cm layer of peat or compost on top and cover with a film or slate.

Winter shelter for hydrangeas

There is another way - a frame is arranged around the bush, the plant is covered with dry leaves, and covering material is pulled on top.

Attention: you can not completely open the bush immediately after the appearance of a positive temperature: the plant can be destroyed by return spring frosts.

What diseases and pests threaten hydrangeas

Hydrangea is affected by the following diseases:

1. Peronosporosis. Manifested by oily spots on the leaves, yellow bloom on the stems and lower parts of the leaves. The timely application of a solution of copper sulfate and green soap helps - 15 and 150 g, respectively, per bucket of water.
2. Chlorosis, in which the leaves lose their color. The reason is unsuitable soil with an excess of lime. The plant is watered several times with potassium nitrate (40 g per 10 l of water), and after the last watering also iron vitriol(40 g per 9 liters of water).

A change in the color of the leaves of a plant is a sign of a disease

Of the pests on hydrangeas, it most often settles spider mite then the leaves dry up and fall off. Destroy it with a solution of thiophos (7 g per 10 liters of water). Aphids may appear during the forcing period. Anabasin sulfate dissolved in water (20 g per bucket) will destroy it.

Application in landscape design in combination with other plants

looking at the photo blooming hydrangea, it becomes clear why the rest of the flowers fade against its background. It is beautiful both in the form of a single plant, and in group tree and shrub plantings, and as a hedge, and in mixborders. It is simply indispensable for decorating gardens in a rustic style, where there are many flowers planted in beds, flower beds, in buckets.

Hydrangea in landscape design

Hydrangea is also appropriate in oriental design, in flower beds decorated in the form of flower patterns. Hydrangeas, planted in containers and placed on gravel grounds, will give the garden a resemblance to the Mediterranean. IN English style hydrangeas look good in the center of the flower garden next to ornamental grasses, geraniums.

For different styles choose their plant species. Arboreal - the most suitable option for English garden. Hydrangeas paniculate, liana-shaped fit into the village garden. In containers, large-leaf ones feel good.

Surround the beautiful hydrangea with care and attention and she will answer you with lush flowering.

Hydrangea care: video

Varieties and types of hydrangea: photo

Is it possible in climatic conditions Siberia, with temperatures in winter period 30-40 degrees, or even lower, grow a hydrangea? It turned out that this is quite a feasible dream.

The only thing to consider is the type of plant. It is worth telling about how to properly approach the planting and cultivation of this wonderful shrub.

Choosing a plant variety for Siberian conditions

To know exactly what plant will please you abundant flowering, the best option is to purchase seeds or seedlings of a plant grown locally.

You need to purchase it from experienced gardeners who have been growing hydrangeas in their area for more than one year.

Based on the experience of flower growers in Siberia, we can safely say that tree-like and paniculate varieties of hydrangeas withstand Siberian frosts well.

Varieties of panicled plant species feel especially good in the local climate - more than twenty of them have already taken root in Siberia. These include such as Pink Diamond, Limelight, Magical Fire, Magical Flute. Each of these varieties has its own color and size of inflorescences.

You can also read about some varieties suitable for the cold conditions of Siberia here.

If the florist has small plot, paniculate hydrangeas of dwarf varieties - Sunday Fresh and Vanilla Fresh - are suitable for him - they reach a height of one meter. There is also the smallest species, which reaches only 60-65 cm, and is called Bobo. These varieties are tested locally and feel great in them.

You can, of course, grow other types of large-leaved hydrangea, but this is quite a laborious job. If you leave hydrangeas of these varieties to winter at 30-40 degree frosts in open ground, they may survive the winter, but they will not please with flowering.

Therefore, every autumn you will have to dig up the bushes and clean them in a cool room, and with the beginning of spring put them up for germination and transfer them to open ground only when the danger of frost has passed.

Therefore, it is still better to choose paniculate or tree-like varieties adapted to the Siberian climate.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea and how to choose a seedling

When buying a seedling of a plant, you need to know that the roots must be in a coma of earth. Pay attention to this lump - the earth should not be overdried. The plant is very demanding on moisture, and the soil on the roots must be saturated with it, otherwise the plant will not take root.

The best time to plant a seedling is spring. After the soil has thawed and the frost time has passed, you can plant the hydrangea in the soil.

How to save hydrangea in winter

Since the Siberian frosts are famous for their strength, the hydrangea must be hidden from them, securely covered.

The roots of the plant require warming in the first place. They need to be covered with rotted manure - this is an excellent insulation for them. You can use peat or dry leaves, they are laid in a thick layer of 10-20 cm.

When the snow falls, they can also insulate the hydrangea bush by covering it with a large layer of snow. It not only insulates the bush, but also nourishes it with moisture when it melts.

It will also be useful to learn more about caring for hydrangeas for the winter.

Choosing a place for planting hydrangeas

When a shrub variety is selected, you can move on to determining its place of residence, the harsh climate of Siberia requires special care in choosing a place for planting hydrangeas.

It is necessary to protect the hydrangea from the wind, so you can plant it near a solid fence.

The plant loves light, but does not tolerate open sun. It is necessary to find a shady place for him.

The soil in which it will be planted is very important for the shrub. Hydrangea does not tolerate alkaline soil - the best option for it would be slightly-medium acidic. It should consist of leaves, sand, sod land and peat.

Preparing the soil and plants for planting

When a place is chosen, you need to properly prepare a pit for planting.

1. The hole must be prepared suitable sizes and taking into account what kind of soil the plant loves. A small hydrangea sapling will grow into a large beautiful bush in a few years, therefore a fertilized pit for it must be made rather big, it should be at least 50 × 50 cm in size if the sapling is small.

   For a large seedling, the pit can be 80 × 80 cm in size. The depth of the pit should be from 40 to 60 cm - this depends on the size of the plant root.

2. 2-3 buckets of water are poured into the finished pit, and it is left overnight so that the water soaks the ground well.
3. The pit soaked with water in the morning is filled with a mixture of peat and humus, mixed with sand and fertile soil in proportions 2:1:1:2, organic and mineral fertilizers are added to them (65 g of superphosphate, 25 g of urea, 25 g of potassium sulfate). Pine and spruce needles acidify the soil well, so they will not be superfluous either . This mixture should completely fill the hole.
4. You need to know that hydrangea does not tolerate lime, so if it gets under the roots, the plant will simply die.
5. Last preparatory stage before planting is pruning roots and extra shoots. The roots are slightly shortened, annual shoots are cut to 5-6 buds.

Planting a plant

Make sure the neck of the root is flush with the ground.

We install a hydrangea seedling in a new dwelling and dig it in with garden soil.

The neck of the root of the plant should be on the same level with the ground, it cannot be deepened, but it is also undesirable to leave it completely open.

For a good rooting of the plant after planting, it is necessary to water it again, then pour a mixture of leaves, needles, peat mulch over the ground under the seedling.

After planting, until the plant has taken root, it needs to create comfortable conditions protected from wind and sun.

plant care

Hydrangea after its rooting is considered an unpretentious plant. Care for it is required the same as for the rest of the garden flowers, but with some features.

Shrub dressing

In order for a plant to please you with long-term flowering and a large size of inflorescences, it needs top dressing, and it is desirable to diversify it.

organic fertilizers- liquid manure is very good for hydrangeas, but they need to be fertilized with care, as an excess of it can harm the inflorescences.

Mineral fertilizers are added to the water during irrigation, for one bucket of water 20-30 grams of fertilizer, there should be 2-3 buckets.

Special fertilizers are sold for this shrub, they balance all the useful substances specifically for hydrangeas.

The plant is fed four times during the spring-summer period:

• the first top dressing is in early spring, during the beginning of sap flow;
• the second - during the development and growth of buds of inflorescences;
• the third is the middle of summer;
• the fourth dressing is autumn, preparation for the winter period.

Watering hydrangeas

Hydrangea loves water very much, so the ground around the bush should never be dry, of course, if you want to get a profuse flowering plant.

It is good to add potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation.

It is necessary to carry out regular mulching of the soil under the bush with sawdust and dry leaves, they retain moisture well in the soil.

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pruning

If you want a hydrangea bush to be well formed, it must be cut correctly and on time.

• In autumn, after flowering, it is necessary to cut off all faded inflorescences.
• In the spring, at the beginning of sap flow, all shoots must be cut off from the hydrangea tree, leaving 3-5 buds each. pruning paniculate hydrangea happens a little differently - the main shoots are cut to the desired height, 2-3 buds are left on the side shoots.
• Old hydrangea bushes need to be rejuvenated by cutting off all the branches to a stump of 7-8 cm, the growth of new shoots will not take long.

Disease and pest control

All plants are susceptible to disease and pest damage, and hydrangea is no exception. But in order to save the bush, it is necessary to carry out its timely treatment. What diseases are the most dangerous?

powdery mildew- This is the most common disease of all types of hydrangeas. When it appears, you need to spray:

treatment of the plant is carried out with a mixture of water with foundationol, proportions - per 10 liters of 25-30 g of medicine;
another method is to pour 80 g of Bordeaux mixture into 10 liters of water.
Aphid- this is another disaster for some plants, and hydrangea also falls into their number. Plant treatment for aphids is carried out with the following composition:

250-300 grams of garlic, peel, chop, pour 10 liters of water, leave for two days, then add 50 grams to the tincture laundry soap. Spray the hydrangea with this solution until it is completely cured.

Nov 18, 2013Viktor Sergeev

Ajisai - "a flower that looks like a purple sun", is the name of the hydrangea in Japan. Indeed, the inflorescences of this generously beautiful plant shine for several warm months, resembling the polar star, for which they are especially loved by gardeners. different regions. Growing hydrangeas in Siberia requires certain knowledge, choosing the right variety and proper care, but the effort is worth it, because with it its tamed sun appears in the garden.

Winter-hardy hydrangea varieties for Siberia

There are several dozen types of hydrangea, but in open ground conditions in Siberia, only varieties belonging to two of them are able to winter and bloom profusely:

• treelike;
• paniculate.

Growing other species, including large-leaved hydrangea, is possible in a pot culture, or on condition that the plant is dug up in autumn and transferred to a cool room for the winter. Such bushes are put up for germination in the spring and transferred to open ground after reaching a stable positive temperature.

Tree hydrangea. A photo

Among the varieties of panicled hydrangea, the following have proven themselves in the best way in Siberia:

• Silver Dollar;
• Lime Light;
• Phantom;
• Pinky Winky;
• Reni / Vanilla Fraz and others.

Those who decide to opt for a tree hydrangea should take a closer look at the following winter-hardy varieties:

• Anabel;
• Grandiflora;
• Sterilis;
• Pink Anabel;
• Strong Anabel.

Lovers of low shrubs can recommend dwarf varieties Sunday Fresh and Vanilla Fresh, as well as the Bobo variety, reaching 60 centimeters in height. Of course, the final choice of a plant depends on its decorative properties and taste preferences of the gardener.

Landing dates

Hydrangea can be propagated by planting seedlings, cuttings or layering. Planting seedlings in open ground in Siberia is possible both in spring and early autumn, when the ground is warm. It is preferable to take cuttings in the spring, after the threat of return frosts has passed, however, with such reproduction active flowering the bush will come in 4 - 5 years.

Selecting a landing site

Let's first figure out where to plant hydrangea, in the shade or in the sun? Hydrangea is a photophilous plant, but placement in direct sunlight is undesirable for it. The best option there will be a place well lit by the sun in the morning, and shaded in the hot afternoon hours.

To create a favorable microclimate for this shrub, protection from the winds is necessary - a fence, some kind of structure, high dense plantings of plants (hedges).

Hydrangea prefers fertile soils, with a slightly acidic reaction. It does not tolerate alkali at all, and therefore it cannot be placed next to plants that need alkalization of the soil, this leads to shrub disease.

If on a plot intended for growing hydrangeas, high level ground water, planting is best done in a raised bed or flower bed.

When choosing a seedling, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of a high-quality, moist earthen clod on its roots, it is better if the plant root is in a container or bag before planting, which protects it from drying out. Hydrangea is an extremely moisture-loving plant, and if the seedling dries out, the chances of its rooting and successful wintering are significantly reduced.

Landing in open ground

When preparing a pit for planting, it is necessary to take into account the acid-base reaction of the soil in a particular area, if necessary, acidify it. Gardeners use for these purposes a weak solution of vinegar, lemon with water, peat additives.

Hydrangea paniculata

The parameters of the landing pit depend on the size of the root system of the bush, for small plant they are 50 x 50 centimeters, for a larger one - 80 x 80. On light sandy soils, loam can be placed at the bottom of the pit to better retain moisture at the roots of the plant.

Before planting a hydrangea on the site, 2 - 3 buckets of water are poured into the pit so that the soil gets wet well. On the day of planting, the pit is filled with a nutrient mixture of humus, mature compost, and peat. The seedling is carefully removed from the container, the excessively long, damaged roots of the plant are removed, and annual shoots are also cut off to about the fifth bud. The roots of the plant are immersed in the pit, while the neck is not deepened, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly.

Since the plant is very moisture-loving, after planting it is recommended to mulch the soil with high quality, for which you can use peat, conifer, foliage, and any other materials.

Hydrangea care in the country

The main thing in caring for hydrangea is to provide it with a comfortable water regime. And if the plant may not respond to untimely pruning or lack of top dressing, then systematic overdrying of the soil leads to at least a decrease in flowering, and often to winter freezing of weakened plants. Since in hot summers without rain, hydrangeas need to be watered 2-3 times a week, it is most convenient to arrange a drip irrigation system. This method will provide the necessary constant soil moisture without additional effort.

Top dressing of hydrangea paniculata and tree-like. In the spring, during the period of rooting and growth of shoots, the plant is responsive to the introduction of nitrogen - an infusion of bird droppings, cattle manure. In summer, before budding, it is good to feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer - a weak solution of wood ash, herbal tinctures, the use of nettle is especially favorable.

In autumn, the plant is pruned and prepared for wintering in accordance with the requirements of climatic conditions.

To perennial ornamental plants pleased the owners of the site with abundant flowering, they need to provide good conditions in Russian frosts. Wintering large-leaved hydrangea in the basement allows you to protect the buds on last year's shoots from freezing. Thanks to this, the gardener can enjoy the flowering of the shrub for almost the entire season.

Basement preparation

The basement before transferring the hydrangea to storage must be prepared in the same way as for laying the root crop:

If the basement in which the hydrangea will winter is intended for storing vegetables and pickles, then it is best to give the plant a place where the temperature does not rise above + 2 ... + 3 ° С. Do not place a container with large-leaved hydrangea where air flows from the inlet ventilation opening. Due to the constant draft and changing conditions on the street, the temperature fluctuations of the earthen coma will be too sharp. This can lead to freezing of the root system or early awakening of the kidneys.

When wintering in the cellar, attention should be paid to the humidity in the room. In a storage place that is too damp, large-leaved hydrangeas that are sensitive to dampness easily rot. If the temperature in the basement or other room where the plant hibernates is higher than indicated, then shoot growth will begin in the middle of winter. A large-leaved hydrangea will not die during early forcing, but it will need lighting and watering, which will cause the owner unnecessary trouble.

It will be possible to reduce humidity by ventilating the basement (through a window or open ventilation). To adjust its level, it is suitable and quicklime, containers with which you need to arrange in the basement. Ventilation helps to regulate the temperature.

The container in which the young large-leaved hydrangea will winter should have good drainage holes so that water does not stagnate during winter watering. If there is no suitable container for a large bush on the farm, a spandbond or lutrasil, wrapped several times around an earthen clod, will replace it very well. Polyethylene film should not be used for this purpose: an airtight material will lead to insufficient ventilation of the root system and its underheating.

Preparing for storage

The key to a good wintering is the maturity of the wood of the shoots. To achieve this, you need to start preparing large-leaved hydrangeas for a dormant period in September. At this time, the gardener removes some of the leaves from below. You need to remove them to about ½ the height of the bush. Many varieties of large-leaved hydrangeas are still blooming at this time, but the removal of foliage does not affect the decorativeness of the plant.

After the first frost or in the case of a persistent drop in temperature to +5 ... 0 ° C, deciduous heat-loving plants stop growing. It is easy to understand this by changing color or falling leaves. Large-leaved hydrangea stops flowering, but cannot shed its leaves on its own.

At this time (for central Russia - the beginning of October), the next stage of preparation for winter begins:

• you need to remove the remains of hydrangea inflorescences from the shoots;
• cut off the remaining leaves from the stems;
• feed the plant with a fertilizer solution with phosphorus and potassium.

When removing foliage, cut off the petiole, leaving a small part of it on the stem. After 7-10 days, these residues will crumble themselves. Before transferring to storage, make sure that they do not remain on the branches, as their presence will lead to mold.

Do not cut or break the ends of the shoots. Large-leaved hydrangea varieties belonging to the Endless Summer or Forever and Ever series begin their first flowering in May-June, on last year's branches. To prevent the buds from freezing during preparation for storage, leaves should be left at the ends of the shoots. With proper wintering, the buds with planted buds are well preserved.

How to dig up a hydrangea bush?

You need to store large-leaved hydrangea with a clod of earth, the volume of which can be large. So that the plant has time to go into a dormant state, dig it out in the fall after the air temperature drops to 0 ° C. Before digging, you need to remove some of the old shoots.

Hydrangea should be dug in a circle at a distance of about 40 cm from the center of an adult bush up to 1 m high. If the bush is small, an earthen ball can be the size of a large-leaved hydrangea crown projection.

Deepen the ditch by 40-50 cm and start digging the root system from below. This should be done with an assistant who will support the large-leaved hydrangea in a comfortable position and help remove the heavy bush from the pit.

Gardeners often leave hydrangeas directly in containers, taking them out into the garden for the summer. In this case, digging the bush is not required. It will only be needed for transshipment into a larger container. This procedure is carried out as needed.

Ways to store large-leaved hydrangea

If there is no basement or cellar, then the large-leaved hydrangea bush can be preserved until spring in other ways:

1. On a warmed veranda or loggia, where temperature fluctuations are insignificant, hydrangeas will winter no worse than in the basement. During cold wintering light and watering is not required (or you can cover the soil surface with snow once every 2 weeks). With warming and early awakening of the kidneys, one should not try to transfer large-leaved hydrangea to an even warmer room or increase watering. The bush is still at rest, and at temperatures up to +10 ° C, leaf development will not occur.
2. Small bushes or seedlings with flowers and leaves acquired in winter can be kept even in the room. It is better to put them on the windowsill and provide additional lighting. With a high degree of certainty, it can be predicted that they will have to be hardened for a long time before planting in the ground. This method of caring for flowers involves taking out a pot with large-leaved hydrangea on Fresh air at first for 30-40 minutes a day. The residence time of the flower on the street is gradually increased.
3. A large plant during wintering in the basement or on the veranda is difficult to place without pruning. But do not worry: large-leaved hydrangeas also bloom on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, for the winter, the bush can be cut at a height of 20-30 cm from the soil level. In this case, flowering will begin in the second half of summer (August-October).

Preparing for landing in the spring

Large-leaved hydrangea is planted only after the return frosts have passed, which also occur in April. Planting of vegetative seedlings is carried out in late spring, after preliminary hardening and accustoming to open sunlight.

You can get large-leaved hydrangeas from the basement no earlier than March. Raise the temperature gradually. Large-leaved hydrangea should be watered room temperature. The next watering should be done in 7-10 days. Dissolve in water when watering complex fertilizer(Kemira, Fertik, etc.).

How to care for a planted hydrangea?

Before planting in the ground, you can trim and form a bush. It is advisable to remove broken, podprupshee or not overwintered branches as soon as the buds begin to swell.

Among the problems of the gardener now are late frosts after a relatively warm period. Until mid-May, you should follow the weather reports, and in case of a cold snap, cover the planted bushes with spadbond. This can be done in the same way as conifer shelters are made:

• install a frame made of wire or wooden slats near the bush;
• pull covering material on it;
• in case of severe frost (below -5 ° C), additionally close the large-leaved hydrangea with burlap or cardboard.

If a successfully overwintered hydrangea can be saved from spring freezing, then it will begin to bloom at the end of May.

Conclusion

How to save hydrangea in winter can only be understood on own experience. With careful care of the plant in winter, it is easy to notice under what conditions the buds begin to awaken on the large-leaved hydrangea, after which wintering the flowering is most abundant, how you can lose all the buds due to spring frost. Subject to simple rules preparing for wintering and disembarkation in middle lane Russia will be able to grow the most capricious varieties of large-leaved hydrangea.

20.09.2018 192 600

Hydrangea, planting and care - a beautiful shrub in the garden in 4 steps

Hydrangea, planting and care - are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to diseases and bad development, in some cases death. In addition, you need to properly care for the shrub after planting in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant hydrangea? Best time to land- spring, the moment when the earth thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn - in the month of September. When choosing a place for a decorative leafy plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, as the bright sun causes slow growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangea can be grown in open sunny areas, but this requires abundant watering. It is desirable to protect young shrubs from bright sun And big winds. It is not recommended to place under trees that absorb water heavily.

The soil for hydrangeas should be well-drained and moist, consist of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand(2:2:1:1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil adversely affects development. The soil must be level Ph approx. 5,0 .

Planting hydrangeas in open ground

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangeas in open ground in spring, in southern regions, including in the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip landing pit for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m. when planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if it is too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to bring the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root neck, which should be flush with the soil. A slight penetration is acceptable, but not more than 20-30 mm; a too deep landing can subsequently lead to neck decay.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well compacted. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to a depth of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also keeps weeds from growing and protects the roots from overheating. As a mulching material, peat chips, wood chips or bark are used, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulching is best done in late spring, when the ground is warm but still damp.

watering hydrangeas - in the photo

In order for the shrub to grow well and please with abundant flowering, garden hydrangeas are fed when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - the first days of June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Don't forget to fertilize mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 g of superphosphate, 10 g each potassium nitrate and urea. Subsequent feeding of hydrangeas is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to lignify by the winter.

For strong and flexible shoots ornamental shrub watered with a solution of weak potassium permanganate Pink colour. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which are necessary for the plant.

mulching hydrangeas with wood chips - pictured

Paniculata hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover predominantly have pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly determined by the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and raspberry in color, on acidic soils Hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline soil, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color under the hydrangea, rusty metal cans should be buried.

Hydrangea pruning - continue to care

Do I need to prune hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that the pruning of large-leaved, serrate, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved hydrangeas is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.

Pruning paniculate and tree hydrangeas involves removing old and faded shoots, which are also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations. The main branches, as a rule, do not touch, cut only those that are bad and grow inside the bush.

autumn pruning hydrangea - pictured

You can cut the hydrangea in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in the autumn, as the sap flow slows down, and the haircut will help lush flowering in the spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

For the winter, it is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them winter without surgical intervention, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all complicated, will surely delight you with its lush flowering if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

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