How flowers winter. When and how to cover perennials for the winter

In winter, even cold-resistant plants can be capricious. Moreover, not every summer resident knows how to properly cover them for the winter so that the protection works 100%. Winter is just around the corner, if you make a mistake, it is possible that you will have to say goodbye to your green pets. How to be in this case? Let's look at 5 of the most popular myths about sheltering crops for the winter.

In winter, even cold-resistant plants can be capricious.

Myth 1: Shelter should be provided for all plants in the garden.

Probably, you have heard more than once that winter shelter is required for all plants that grow in the garden. In fact, this statement is wrong. Most perennials are able to survive the winter without protective cover. First of all, this is due to the fact that they are adapted to the climatic conditions of your area. Of course, there are also plants that cannot withstand a sharp change in weather. We are talking about all types of roses (with the exception of park roses), clematis, phlox, peonies, lilies.

Do not overdo it with shelter, otherwise the plants will lose their lives not because of sub-zero temperatures, but as a result of dampening. The latter phenomenon often makes itself felt if you hurry with the shelter of crops in the fall and delay their opening in the spring.

Myth 2: If you cover the plants, they will successfully survive the winter.

Perhaps you have seen more than once a not entirely personal picture when securely sheltered plants died for no known reason. With what it can be connected? Such a phenomenon could lead to frost and sudden changes in temperature. Most often, this is due to spring and autumn thaws. Unstable weather with a sharp change in temperature leads to deep freezing and waterlogging of the soil.

Unstable weather with a sharp change in temperature leads to deep freezing and waterlogging of the soil

Bottom line: all kinds of damage to crops, root rot and decay lead to their death. Do not forget that this fate can overtake even a well-hidden culture. What to do? When cold is on the nose, you should not approach the issue of sheltering plants with fanaticism, because this is just one of the ways that will help them withstand low temperatures. Practice comprehensive preparation for wintering. Plant plants according to all the rules, provide them with appropriate care (watering, fertilizing).

Myth 3: Hilling is the most effective way to cover low-growing plants for the winter.

Hilling is a procedure during which a mound of earth is created over the roots and remaining shoots. It is considered the most common method of sheltering crops for the winter. Such actions protect them from sub-zero temperatures, help to create a land relief near. The presence of an earthen embankment in spring contributes to the active discharge of melt water, and the plant remains protected from decay. We will not refute this information. Of course, hilling is a great way to protect plants from the cold in winter.

Hilling is a procedure during which a mound of earth is created over the roots and remaining shoots.

However, you need to take into account some features of its implementation. Do not use garden soil for this, if possible, replace it with humus. It is characterized by a looser and lighter structure, has high thermal insulation properties, and makes the soil more fertile. Acts as a reliable shelter and fertilizer. For this procedure to be effective, carry out a comprehensive preparation of plants for winter: spud the plants and arrange a shelter above them (for roses). Such a structure will protect plants from the cold. In addition, there will be no difficulties with its manufacture; you will need a regular frame and material for its shelter.

Myth 4: Spruce branches and fallen leaves are the most effective covering materials for plants for the winter

Coniferous branches and fallen leaves are excellent material for shelter. Let's consider their features in detail.

Coniferous branches and fallen leaves are excellent material for shelter.

Pine branches and needles are a common covering material of natural origin. It is affordable and does an excellent job of providing plants with protection from the cold. It is worth noting that it shelters them not only from critical sub-zero temperatures, but also from nimble rodents.

Lapnik helps plants withstand adverse weather conditions: sleet, freezing rain, strong winds. It does not contribute to increasing the frost resistance of crops - its presence allows you to create a heat-insulating well-ventilated space. If you cover the plant with coniferous branches, they can more easily endure temperature fluctuations and the active rays of the sun. If the cottage is located far from the forest, it will not be easy to make supplies. But even if it is nearby, you will have to take into account that the Forestry Regulations state that the harvesting of spruce and pine spruce branches is approved only from fallen trees that are located in planned felling areas or in sanitary cleaning areas.

It is also important to remember that various pests may be hiding on the spruce branches that you bring to your dacha.

In addition, it can serve as a source of infectious diseases that are dangerous for plants. Inspect the pines and spruces from which you plan to collect supplies. If you find yellow twigs and rusty needles on them, and black growths and bald spots on the bark, this indicates that they are not healthy and it is not advisable to use such a shelter. It is recommended to collect branches from those firs and pines that are full of health.

Myth 5: The best way to cover plants is to use nonwovens.

Thanks to non-woven materials, the process of growing some crops has been simplified. In winter, they provide plants with reliable protection. A positive effect is observed provided that you operate them subject to certain rules. For example, if you take a cover made of such material and put it on a spruce, then it may not survive until spring. What is the reason for this, because these covers are designed for conifers? The thing is that they cope with such functions, but this is only acceptable if we are talking about countries where snow rarely falls.

In this article we will look at how to cover flowers for the winter in the country. Let's look at ways to hide. Learn when to cover flowers. Let's talk about which flowers do not need to be covered for the winter.

In order for perennial flowers to be able to safely survive the winter period, in the fall it is necessary to create special shelters for them. Many plants do not withstand low temperatures and therefore need the help of gardeners. To properly protect your favorite flowers from the cold, you need to know the features of protective shelters and what they are. As a rule, shelters are:

wet;
dry;
air;
air dry.

Most plants, especially ornamental ones, need shelter during the winter season, how do you cover flowers for the winter, and for which flowers do you need shelter?

Wet shelters

This method is the most suitable if there are many flowers in the garden. Bushes are covered with soil 30-40 cm to protect their center. If it turns out to be safe and sound, then in the spring the flowers will be restored. Before that, in September-October, the plants are pruned - this increases their winter hardiness. It is impossible to use sawdust or peat instead of soil, which absorb a large amount of water and freeze. So cover clematis, roses, grapes - those varieties that are resistant to frost.

air shelters

Sudden temperature changes can also damage flowers. Air shelters save from such misfortune. To create them, lutrasil or film are used. A rack tripod is installed around the plant, and a cover made of one of these materials is put on top of it. Such shelters have flaws. In sunny weather, flowers can dry out or overheat. Such a discrepancy can occur in a snowless winter or spring. Then, ahead of time, the flowers “wake up” and soon die from low temperatures. To prevent this from happening, a “stool” shelter is built for them with transparent walls through which light will penetrate and a dark roof that protects them from overheating. A similar option is suitable for conifers, rhododendrons. To create it, pegs are stuck into the ground around the bush, and a plywood shield is placed on top. The whole structure is covered with a film, and its edges are buried in the ground. Plants should not come into contact with the shelter.

There are several types of shelter for the winter, certain methods of shelter are suitable for certain plants.

Air dry shelters

In this case, in addition to air, a layer of sawdust, dry leaves, and hay serves as insulation. First of all, supports in the form of logs are installed around the flowers. A boardwalk is made on top, which is covered with earth mixed with dry material, and a plastic film is placed on it. Sunlight does not penetrate into such a shelter, but the temperature inside is constant both on frosty days and during thaws - 0-3 degrees below zero. Such shelters are the warmest, and they are suitable for those plants that can hardly tolerate frost - roses, deciduous rhododendrons, yucca, gingo. For small shelters made of film, you can leave vents from below so that air enters them. For this purpose, a thin tube with one end protruding outside is placed under the film. If the covering layer is too thick, then, most likely, the plants will sop. It should have a thickness of 10-15 cm with a gap for air.

How else to cover perennial flowers for the winter

In cases where the aerial parts of perennial flowers do not die off, or you are not sure of their frost resistance, it is better to cover them. Taking into account the type and size, for protection use:

pine or spruce spruce branches;
a layer of mulch or soil;
nonwoven material;
boxes filled with loose mulching material that is not saturated with moisture;
other auxiliary materials that can protect plantings from the cold.

From above, these structures are covered with non-wetting material so that the plants do not rot in them when a thaw appears. In this way, chrysanthemums, non-winter-hardy roses, climbing flowers, previously removed from the trellis and leaning on the soil sprinkled with mulch, are covered.

Perennials on alpine slides are covered in groups, preferably with non-woven material. So that it does not move, its edges must be sprinkled with earth. For mulching, it is better not to use straw, fallen leaves, which decay and, moreover, attract rodents, insect pests, spread fungus and bacterial diseases. Needles, sawdust, soil mixed with humus, dry shavings are suitable for mulch. Primroses remain in the soil, but are plentifully mulched and sprinkled with snow, the thickness of which should be 50-80 cm. The snow should not cake and turn into a dense crust - this can stop flowers from spring.

How to prepare perennial flowers for wintering

Perennial flowers owe their name to the fact that their root system (and sometimes aerial parts), after completing the growing season, does not die off. Development processes for the winter time only freeze. In the spring, the flowers wake up and quickly begin to grow. Ornamental perennials need minimal care when it is warm, but in autumn they need protection from the cold. The type of shelter depends on the climate of a particular region, on the degree of winter hardiness of plants.

Roses are those ornamental plants that without fail need a winter shelter, otherwise the plant may simply disappear, freezing from the cold.

Perennial flowers will be safe if:

trim the crown in time;
mulch the soil under the plants;
insulate the remaining above-ground parts of the flowers.

These operations are usually carried out in a complex, and those types of flowers that are not resistant to frost and most bulbs, except for those that bloom in early spring, are dug up and stored in a warm or cool dry room until the end of the winter period.

You can limit yourself only to pruning and mulching in a flower bed of soil for those plants that are frost-resistant. Their growth points and nutrients are located underground, so when the snow falls, they will not be lost.

How to prune perennials before winter

The aerial parts of the flowers, while warm, accumulate nutrients for the future, so they are pruned in the fall, with the first frosts.

What is the purpose of pruning dead parts of plants:

so that larvae of insect pests do not remain in dry stems;
to reduce the risk of spreading fungal and other diseases;
to facilitate shelter and mulching of plantings for the winter period.

Low flowers should be cut at ground level, while tall and powerful plants have the lower part of the stems left. In winter, they trap snow, acting as a natural defense, and in spring, they easily determine the location of flowers.

The most cold-resistant flowers - astilbes, aquilegia, nivyanik, rudbeckia, etc. must be cut off, leaving only 5 cm above the ground cover from the entire height of the stems.

Delphiniums and other tall flowers that have hollow, powerful stems are cut to 25 cm so that water that enters the stem does not cause rotting of the upper part of the roots and death. In irises, two weeks before frost, it is necessary to cut the leaves to a height of 10 cm. Curly annual shoots of clematis and similar flowers are shortened in order to avoid freezing and rotting in the winter shelter of their green parts.

Close-up showing an air-dry tent-like shelter that is great for most ornamental plants, especially roses.

Shelter of perennial flowers

Perennials - daisies, daisies, arabis, alpine asters, pansies, carnations and others are under the snow along with their juicy green stems and leaves. High humidity and temperature changes cause greenery to rot under the snow and flowers to die. To avoid this, they need to be sheltered for the winter. A thin layer (5-7 cm) of fallen leaves is taken as a shelter. Before that, it is advisable to cover the flowers with hardwood branches or spruce branches, which will prevent overheating and provide them with ventilation.

How to cover bulbous flowers

How to wrap an ornamental plant called Clematis, close-up, this kind of sheltering method is suitable for many perennials

The table lists the names of colors with the type of coverage:

Color name	Types of shelter
Daffodils, tulips, phloxes, hyacinths	A layer of foliage (thickness 2-3 cm) is laid on frozen soil to a depth of 3-4 cm.
Lilies with white flowers	They cover with a layer of 10-15 cm of fallen leaves - so deep because the bulbs of these flowers are very close to the ground plane and risk freezing.
Delphinium, rudbeckia, burning clematis	After they bloom, in early October, the leaves and stems are pruned. Height 10-15 cm from the ground. On the eve of frost, the flowers are mulched with a layer of 3-5 cm of soil or peat. From above, a layer of leaves or spruce branches is possible.
Roses	With a stable freezing of the topsoil, these flowers begin to cover. On top of the soil with which they are heaped in September or early October, spruce branches are placed for ventilation, then sawdust or dry foliage (layer 15 cm) to a height of 15-20 cm. And on top - again spruce branches or brushwood. They put boxes or some kind of supports (it depends on the height of the roses), cover with paper sheets and film. The edges must be pressed with stones. Leave gaps for air until severe frosts (up to -10 degrees) come.
herbaceous peonies	If they are properly planted, shelter is not needed. But the old bushes are covered every autumn with soil mixed with humus. With the onset of spring, peonies unwind without damaging the growth buds.
primroses	From mice they are covered with spruce branches in the fall. Add fresh soil to the center of the bush.
daylilies	They can winter without shelter. For valuable varieties - "Cherry Valentina", "Close in Glory", "Storm of the Center" - then you need to cover them for prevention purposes.
irises	If you have Siberian irises, then they do not need shelter for the winter, unlike varietal bearded irises, which need to be covered.

A close-up shows a method of air shelter for the winter, which is great for cold and cold-temperate climates during the winter season.

How to cover flowers for the winter in the country: questions and answers

Question number 1. How to cover the conical and pyramidal forms of columnar thujas and junipers?

Answer: In winter, they often bend from sticking snow, their shape disappears, branches break. Therefore, it is necessary, starting from the bottom, not tightly, to pull off the crown with twine. In cases where the trees are taller than 1.5-2 meters, tie them to some supports, that is, fix them so that they do not bend under the weight of snowdrifts. However, try to shake off the snow from the crowns in time.

Question number 2. When is the time for winter shelter?

Answer: The weather in your area of residence should notify you of this. For example, in October this should not be done, because very warm, clear days can come after the first severe cooling. Due to the fact that at this time you have already covered your flowers, they will surely dry out.

Flowers cover at an air temperature not higher than -5 degrees - approximately this is mid-November. Previously, this should not be done, because the plants need a little hardening, getting used to frost. They are not afraid of night frosts and small (up to -5 degrees) frosts. The main covering material is spruce branches (pine or spruce), which contributes to the accumulation of snow, which protects flowers from severe frosts.

In the pre-winter work in the garden, one of the most important points is the shelter and protection of plants. All plants, without exception, need to prepare for winter. But the need for shelter applies only to those that have insufficient frost resistance and require special protection due to their species characteristics. On the issue of shelter, it is important not to overdo it: provide additional protection only to those crops that need it, and only when the real winter begins to shackle the garden. Choosing the right time to cover the plants is just as important as the method of protection.

Content:

Get serious about hiding

Plants should be covered for the winter only when there is really a need for this - according to the characteristics of the species and the degree of its frost resistance, stability, bark, age, foliage or needles. A careful study of the characteristics and preferences of plants that are planted in the garden, and clarification of the recommended wintering parameters is a guarantee of success.

It is very good to keep lists, noting plants and new additions to the garden collection that will need shelter. All plants that need to be covered are best divided into three groups:

wintering only with air-dry shelter;
content with full shelter with spruce branches or its alternative - hilling;
those species for which a high layer of peat or leaf mulch is sufficient.

Materials for sheltering plants, including for mulching and hilling, should be stocked up in advance - they should be at hand when necessary. Spruce branches, dry foliage of healthy plants, sawdust, peat, compost, humus, non-woven materials, burlap, reed mats, wooden boxes and caps, staples for fixing plants, arches and frames should be prepared by mid-autumn.

Even after the completion of the main shelter, it is worth leaving some materials for additional measures in the winter, especially a supply of spruce branches, which will help out and help upgrade, repair or strengthen protection.

Plants that need to be covered

If the design of the garden follows the rule of selecting species in accordance with climatic conditions, most of the plants in it are winter-hardy enough to endure even the most unstable winters. Grown by local nurseries, adapted to the peculiarities of the climate, thoughtfully selected plants differ from the "foreigners" precisely in their adaptability to local winters. But even if such plants dominate, there is something to cover in any garden.

First of all, exotics need protection, shrubs blooming on last year's shoots and capricious accent plants - the pride of the collections and the main decoration of flower beds. But be sure to cover not only roses, clematis, lilies, rhododendrons, phloxes, chrysanthemums, lavender, wisteria, hibiscus and hydrangeas.

In addition to crops that need shelter from frost (for both roots and shoots), there are three more categories of plants that are worth protecting for the winter:

plants prone to frost cracks, damage to trunks and skeletal shoots;
plants that attract hares and rodents or are vulnerable to them due to the unformed bark;
crops prone to sunburn - coniferous and evergreen species whose foliage can be damaged by direct sun in winter and especially in spring (primarily variegated varieties, spruce and arborvitae).

Plants that require mandatory winter shelter include:

all young seedlings and immature plants, especially shrubs and trees planted in autumn (both ornamental and fruit),
perennials and ornamental shrubs, the winter hardiness of which is unknown, not specified or doubtful.

It is better to cover young conifers from the sun early, in November or at least in December. © Space Design Agency

Terms of shelter of plants for the winter

With the arrival of autumn and the beginning of pre-winter harvesting, the most difficult period of doubt begins - after all, there is simply no exact recipe or “indications” for starting wrapping plants for the winter. Every year, every fall is special. You have to focus not only on the state of plants and their preferences, current air temperatures, but also weather forecasts, which do not become more accurate over time.

Covering early is even more dangerous than no protection at all. This statement as the main warning is found in any instructions and manuals for gardening. And almost as often ignored. But in a simple rule - to carry out shelter when the weather is established, from which the plants protect - contains the main secret of successfully determining the timing for wrapping garden shrubs, trees and perennials.

The beginning of the shelter season for garden plants always falls in mid-autumn, but usually in October we are talking only about the initial stages of preparation: mulching and hilling, tying crowns for all plants that will have to be covered more carefully for the winter.

A typical example is roses, whose shelter is often stretched out for more than a month. The preliminary stages of protection are stretched so that by the time when it is necessary to directly construct the final shelter, the plants have been piled up, cleaned, tied, bent and fixed, a frame for fitting around them has been created and materials for wrapping have been prepared.

Plants that need complete protection for the winter should be covered when the temperature does not rise above -5 degrees for 2-3 days, that is, with the arrival of real winter and the beginning of easy freezing of the soil.

The first few days after the start of a full frost period will contribute to the hardening of the plants and allow you to create optimal conditions under a protective shelter, without the risk of damping out if the thermal insulation is too early.

If the weather is not abnormal, then the traditional time for the final shelter of young and capricious plants is mid-November. Frosts down to -15 degrees are considered "deadlines" for shelter. If, after the completion of the shelter, warming comes, it is necessary to ensure ventilation and air access, postponing full wrapping until freezing temperatures stabilize.

Plants can be protected from sunburn later - until the middle of winter, when daylight hours begin to grow again, and the activity of the sun increases. But young conifers are also better to shelter from the sun early, in November or at least in December.

Shelter does not replace winterization

Preparing vulnerable species of garden plants for a long and most likely unstable winter is a systemic process, which includes not only the protective shelter itself. After all, improper care and violation of the schedule of autumn procedures can destroy even plants under the right air-dry shelter.

Measures that play a critical role in the effectiveness of sheltering horticultural crops include:

termination of top dressing until the end of August and compliance with the terms of autumn top dressing for the lawn and plants that need them;
timely water-charging irrigation for shrubs and trees;
deadlines ;
thorough sanitary cleaning of plants, including the removal of dry leaves, plant debris from the soil and cleaning of curtains;
timely hilling and mulching, especially for perennials prone to bare roots;
maintenance of water and air permeability of the soil;
tying crowns and curtains to protect branches from breaking off from snow;
removal of vines from supports;
preventive measures to control diseases and pests.

With the onset of snowfalls, it is necessary to add the distribution, pouring and trampling of snow to the measures already taken to protect plants. And continue to protect against rodents, which are lured by the heat under the plant cover.

23 sep 2016

Perennial flowers delight us with lush blooms and decorative greenery every summer. All garden perennials growing in our climate must have winter-hardy characteristics, some plants winter easily without shelter at all, but there are those that need to be carefully prepared and covered before the onset of cold weather.

In autumn, plant growth stops, and in some herbaceous crops, the entire ground part dies off. Dried leaves and stems of flowers should be cut off in autumn so that fungal diseases do not develop on them. There are rhizomatous perennials in which the leaves remain green after frost, for example, hellebore, bergenia, irises. In these plants, the ground part cannot be cut off completely in autumn, since wintering greenery in spring is necessary for plants to develop in spring, and it will decorate flower beds until all other plants have woken up from hibernation.

Consists of several stages. First, perennials are pruned as necessary, then treated with fungicidal preparations to prevent the appearance of fungal diseases, mold and rot, and at the end, warming the plants by mulching or installing a shelter. Read more about the most popular perennial flowers and their preparation for winter.

Photos and names of perennial garden flowers in alphabetical order:

Aquilegia or catchment pleased us with flowering in summer, and until autumn the plant retained openwork greenery. After the first frost, the stems and leaves of the plant disappear, in October they are cut almost to the ground, leaving 5-7 cm above the ground. peat or plain earth.

Astilbe brilliant grows without problems in one place for 5-6 years. Young rooted plants can winter without shelter, in late autumn the dried ground part of the plant is cut off and the rhizome is covered with peat or humus from above with a layer of 5 cm. Old astilba plantings must be additionally covered with dry leaves and foam on top so that the leaves do not rot from precipitation.

Asters perennial bloom until late autumn, September and October bushes sometimes cover the first snow. These flowers withstand short-term cooling and snow, with a thaw they will continue to bloom until real frosts. When perennial asters for the most part fade, their stems are cut to the base, leaving 5-10 cm stumps. It is better to cover perennials in dry weather. The rhizome of the plant is covered from above with humus, dry leaves and covered with spruce branches. Perennial asters can overwinter without shelter, however, plants weakened by late flowering will give fewer shoots next year.

badan decorates a flower garden or an alpine hill with leaves all year round. The rhizome of this plant winters well without shelter under a layer of snow. So that on a hill the shelter is not blown away by the wind with snow, it is necessary to build barriers in the form of dry branches stuck like a snow-retaining fence. For those who want to propagate bergenia, its seeds are sown before winter, then in spring they will give friendly shoots.

Geichera also famous for its beautiful leaves that go under the snow and persist until spring. Leaves of geyhera cannot be cut in autumn, then the plant will safely overwinter and quickly grow in spring. Preparing geykhera for winter consists in hilling the base of the bush, it is covered with peat, humus. From above, varietal and hybrid plants can be covered with spruce branches, but it is impossible to cover the geyhera with dense material, since the plant can rot without access to air.

Helenium blooms in late summer - early autumn, and after the inflorescences wither, the stems of the plant are cut at a height of 5-10 cm. To prepare for winter, the cut bushes are covered with peat or humus so that the renewal buds located close to the ground do not freeze out. In winter, snow is piled on the flower garden, the larger the layer, the less severe frosts are terrible for wintering perennials.

Delphinium differs in high frost-resistant qualities, withstands even winters with temperatures down to -50 degrees, but only under a thick layer of snow. The high stems of the delphinium are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Since the stems of the plant are hollow, water can get inside and the base of the plant rots, so the cut is covered with garden pitch or plasticine. If there is no snow, and severe frosts are expected, then the place where the delphiniums grow is covered with dry leaves and covered with spruce branches.

Dicentra or broken heart flower fades completely by autumn in a sunny place, but beautiful greenery can be preserved in partial shade, then it is cut off at a height of 5 cm from the base. For the winter, the rhizome of the plant is covered with mulch on the surface of the earth around the bush, with a layer of 5 cm.

Iris flowers (irises) have a tuberous rhizome that spreads over the surface of the earth. The rhizome of the iris has exceptional cold-resistant qualities, but the spring thaw during the day and frost at night can destroy the plant. Before the first frost, iris leaves are cut at a height of 15-20 cm, dead and dry parts are removed so that putrefactive diseases do not appear. The bare rhizomes of irises for the winter are covered with sand, peat or plain earth to a height of 10 cm, leaving the leaves sticking out. It is impossible to cover irises with dry leaves or dry grass, as they will rot and the plants may rot. To hold snow in an open place, dry branches are laid on the plants. In the spring, when the snow and the top layer of soil thaw, the shelter is removed and the piled layer is raked so that the iris tubers warm up in the spring sun.

Clematis gardeners love for luxurious flowering, but not all perennial types of clematis have high winter-hardy qualities and require careful preparation for winter and shelter. Cut clematis depending on the group. Large-flowered clematis that bloom on last year's shoots are not cut to the base, leaving stems 1-2 meters long. To prepare for winter, long stems are twisted into a ring, laid on a bed of dry leaves or sawdust, a frame is built on top, for example, a box is placed and covered with insulating bulk material, for example, the same dry leaves or sawdust, covered with roofing felt or film to protect against moisture . It is necessary to carefully mulch the base of the clematis bush with humus or cover it with sawdust.

Small-flowered clematis are usually cut to the ground, their numerous shoots die off after frost, but the rhizome is quite winter-hardy and in spring produces many new shoots that grow rapidly and bloom in early summer. Clematis called "princes" bloom on the shoots of last year, but they can winter on a support without shelter.

Daylily - "flower of the intelligentsia" practically does not require care in the fall. Only faded flower stalks need to be cut, and the leaves are removed after they have completely turned yellow. Zoned varieties of daylily winter without shelter, but exotic hybrids or not yet fully rooted plants planted in autumn are recommended to be covered for the winter, filling them with humus, peat, dry leaves or spruce branches on top. Shelter for perennials should be done when stable cool weather sets in, otherwise, when warming, the materials for shelter and the plants themselves may begin to rot, mold will form, which will continue to develop in early spring.

Peony well preserved in winter under a thick layer of snow. After the first frosts in October - November, the peony stems are cut at a height of 5 cm, by which time the rhizome has already accumulated enough nutrients for growth in the spring. After pruning, the peony bush is covered with humus or peat to a height of 10 cm, until there is snow, this shelter will protect the renewal buds on the rhizome from the first frosts. In the spring, most of the mulch is raked away from the bush.

Roses not as sissy as many people think. Roses can bloom even at zero temperature, you should not rush to cover them, because under the insulation the shoots can begin to become moldy. Roses are pruned and covered for the winter no earlier than the second half of October. Roses from the hybrid tea group are pruned, leaving branches with 1-2 buds from the ground, floribunda and polyanthus roses are cut higher above 4-6 buds, and the shoots of weaving roses must be completely preserved. Hybrid tea roses with short pruning are easier to cover, the base of the bushes is spudded with earth, while the topsoil should already be frozen so that the root neck does not rot. From above, the plant is covered with sawdust, shavings, and from above, close with a bucket or box to protect it from moisture. Above roses with high pruning, you have to build a frame, bend the shoots to the ground as much as possible, wrap them with roofing paper. Climbing roses are removed from the support, laid on a bedding, covered with insulation and covered with acrylic in several layers.

Rudbeckia "golden flower" bright and unpretentious perennial. In autumn, just before frost, cut the stems of the plant at the root, cover it with compost or earth on top.

perennial phlox require minimal preparation for winter, the panicled phlox is cut off the stems to the base, and a bucket of humus is poured onto the bush to protect the rhizome from frost until there is snow.

Winter, as always, comes suddenly. This year too, the frosts came before the snow fell. But it is very difficult to predict what the weather will be like in the next three months. Perhaps the winter will turn out to be little or no snow at all. And this is dangerous because the soil can freeze to a very great depth, thereby destroying most or even the entire root system of most crops. Frosts (a short-term decrease in temperature) in themselves are not dangerous if the snow has not yet fallen: the earth does not have time to freeze. Terrible frosts from minus 13 - 15 degrees, which without snow hold for several days in a row. If the aerial part has adapted to withstand severe cold, then the roots (even in winter-hardy crops) die under such conditions. And if the roots freeze, the plant will no longer be able to recover, including due to root growth.

It is necessary to start sheltering when the soil freezes to a depth of 3 - 5 cm. If you rush, the plants can rot or be affected by a fungal infection. For wintering to be successful, any perennial plant must survive frosts of minus 4 - 7 degrees without shelter. After all, the entire upper, above-ground part works as an indicator that “tells” the root system what is happening up there and what you need to prepare for.

Very often in winter, plants die not so much from severe frosts, but from temperature “swings” during thaws. It is unstable weather with sharp drops that provokes excessive freezing and waterlogging of the soil.

A sheltered plant may also die. After all, shelter is not a panacea, but only one of the methods that help increase the winter hardiness of plants. It is necessary in order to protect plantings from severe frosts, sudden changes in temperature, sunburn, crown breakage from adhering snow, glaciation and withering winds.

The question of how and how to cover plants for the winter is acute for every gardener. There are a lot of special covering materials for plants, but this does not mean that, having wrapped bushes, trees or flowers with a thick layer of dense fabric, you can not worry. Plants, unlike us, are not warm-blooded creatures. And if we can keep warm by putting on a fur coat, then it is useless to wrap them up. In winter, heat comes from the ground, and in order for the shelter to have a comfortable temperature, it is necessary to reduce heat loss due to heat-insulating materials. And the lower the shelter, the warmer it is.

First of all, it is necessary to insulate the plantings of the current year. They are the most vulnerable, because they might not have time to take root properly. Be sure to cover the bristly and near-trunk strips of fruit trees and berry bushes with a thick (15 - 20 cm) layer of humus. When warming the garden, do not forget about the strawberry plantation. Some simply fill it with water, literally freezing garden strawberries into ice. The solution is simple, but unreliable: the first thaw will turn everything into water. You can throw more spruce paws or brushwood on the bed for better retention of snow, or spread non-woven covering material. Such protection will work, and strawberries will be reliably protected in a snowless winter. Raspberries also need to be tied in bunches, which are then bent to the ground so that the bushes do not straighten.

There are many materials that can serve as a winter shelter for plants. And each of them has its pros and cons. An incorrectly chosen protective "cocoon" will lead to the freezing of the root system, the death of plantings and the absence of a crop.

spruce and PINE LAPNIK deservedly considered one of the best covering materials. It not only retains snow perfectly, but also protects against severe frosts, cold winds, sleet and freezing rains, as well as ubiquitous rodents. In addition, spruce branches do not accumulate moisture like leaves and pass air well. It does not increase frost resistance, but under its reliable protection, ideal conditions for wintering plants are created. So not only are temperature fluctuations perfectly smoothed out, but the burning rays of the winter sun also lose their destructive power. And the temperature under it does not fall below minus 5 degrees, even in a thirty-degree frost.

But if there is no forest in the area, then where can I get spruce branches? And one more thing: it is allowed to harvest spruce and pine paws only from already cut down trees located in places of planned logging or sanitary cleaning. Finally, along with spruce branches brought from the forest, it is easy to bring various pests and even infection to your site. Therefore, before stocking up on them, take a closer look at the pines and spruces: are they healthy? If the needle is rusty and yellowed, and the bark is with small black growths and bare areas, then you can’t take such paws - they are sick. The disadvantage of spruce branches is that it is disposable. Yes, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely collect needles that have fallen from spruce branches in the spring. Meanwhile, it increases the acidity of the soil. Yes, in small doses it is not critical. But for calcephilous plants (preferring alkaline soils), even such a minimum will harm.

BRUSHWOOD not so much retains heat as helps to retain snow, which, in fact, serves as protection from frost. It does not interfere with air exchange and does not rot in wet weather. Brushwood is convenient to use in regions with snowy winters. Tightly stacked bundles can be used both as a windbreak and for snow retention. But if the frosts came without snow, there will be little benefit from such a shelter.

Good covering material FALLEN LEAVES. It reliably protects the soil from the cold and serves as an excellent food for earthworms, which, in turn, increase its fertility. But it is in the foliage that mice love to arrange their nests. Moreover, the foliage must be properly prepared. Under no circumstances should wet leaves cover plantings. Dried wet foliage does not allow air to pass through and retains moisture - as a result, the plant dies under it. In frost, it turns into an ice crust, and during thaws it melts. For plants covered in this way, this is certain death. Mold, rot, harmful bacteria, pest larvae - this is an incomplete list of what a foliage shelter can shelter.

Therefore, most often dry leaves are used for plant protection not separately, but as part of a more complex insulating structure. For example, they build a base over a plant - a hut of stakes or boards, fill it with foliage and cover it all with some kind of waterproof material, not forgetting to think over ventilation.

Another disadvantage of using foliage as a covering material is its spring cleaning: a tedious task that takes a lot of time and effort. To avoid this, immediately put the collected dry leaves into mesh bags with small cells (carrots, onions and other vegetables are sold in such bags) and cover the plants directly with these bags. In the spring, in just a few minutes, you will dismantle impromptu shelters.

Good covering material STRAW. It protects well from the cold and retains snow. But, like leaves, it accumulates moisture and gets wet. Straw should be used only dry and be sure to protect it from moisture. If the winter turns out to be warm and damp, under the influence of moisture, loose straw can be compacted, caked, forming layers. Sometimes they rot, rot, are affected by mold. Naturally, for plants covered with such material, this is fraught with big problems. Mice and other small rodents like to nest in straw, pests and plant pathogens (fungi, microbes, viruses) hibernate.

If straw is in excess, and there is no other covering material, then it is better to make straw mats or sheaves from it. They are light and do not put pressure on plants. Under them, the crops remain dry. Yes, it holds up well in cold weather. Water on their surface (according to the principle of a thatched roof) rolls down without getting inside. But in spring, the ground under the straw does not thaw for a long time. Through a layer of straw blanket, the sun's rays cannot reach the soil and warm it up, melting the ice. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the straw shelter as soon as possible.

Also used for winter shelter DRY PLANT STEMS. In essence, this is the same straw with all its advantages and disadvantages. It is only important to consider: not every stem can be used for shelter. It must be dry, healthy (rotten, moldy, diseased cannot be used) and without seeds.

Demanded as a covering material and SACKCLOTH. They tie trunks of young trees with it, shade conifers, protecting them from sunburn, cover roses and other heat-loving plants. Previously, bags were sewn from natural fabrics - now more and more synthetic ones are in use, and even with a polyethylene “lining”. Of course, they protect from water, but the plants under them are deprived of normal air exchange, and this is fraught with decay. However, traditional burlap is also not without flaws. It not only allows moisture to pass through, but also absorbs it. In wet weather, the fabric dries poorly and in frost it turns into an ice shell, which is not at all useful for sheltered plants. Under the damp fabric, a favorable environment is created for the development of rot and mold, and air exchange is disturbed. Together, this can lead to the death of plants.

Most often, old bags are used for shelter, in which vegetables were previously stored. If they were not properly processed, pathogens of various infections could remain on them. And even when storing clean bags in rooms with high humidity, pathogenic microflora sometimes begins to develop on the fabric.

Excellent material for thermal insulation - OPILKI. True, it is not worth completely covering the plant with them: mulching the soil is enough. But wet sawdust cakes and rots. Therefore, they must be laid so that they do not touch the shoots of plants. The smaller the sawdust, the better they absorb moisture. During thaws, raw sawdust is compacted, and in the cold a crust is formed that does not allow air to pass through. Like needles, they are able to influence the acidity of the soil. For some cultures, this can be critical. Like straw, they prevent the soil from warming up, and if your plans do not include delaying the development of plants, such shelter should be removed as soon as possible.

PEAT- a good thermal insulator with certain reservations. Firstly, this is not exactly “material at hand” - if only you had it in stock in advance. Secondly, a full-fledged shelter from it, perhaps, still will not work, but for hilling or mulching it will do just fine. But peat affects the acidity of the soil, therefore, just like needles and sawdust, it is not suitable for all plants. Peat also absorbs moisture well, after which it compacts, losing some of its heat-insulating properties. And if, when sheltering beds with winter crops and plantings with peat, this is not critical, then when hilling perennials, it may turn out to be undesirable.

Appearance NONWOVEN MATERIALS made our life much easier. Agrofibre conditionally protects plants from cold. But it perfectly insures against drying, wind and winter sun, creating a microclimate. It is only necessary to choose a denser material - from 80 g per 1 sq. m. Initially, non-woven materials were developed for countries with warm and little snowy winters. In our harsh winters, when thaws alternate with severe frosts, such shelters must be used very carefully. It may happen that the whole winter the plant will stand in a wet and cold robe. And strong and cold winds and frosts will easily turn it into an ice shell. To avoid all these negative consequences, build a frame on which you will stretch the agrofibre.

CUTTING BOARDS, PIECES OF SLATE, ROOFING, WOODEN BOXES - all this can be used to build winter shelters. To one degree or another, they can retain snow, but still their main function is to serve as a frame. Under this structure, an air layer is preserved that protects the plants from direct contact with the insulation (which can get wet or covered with ice), and this is a plus. But many building materials contain harmful chemicals. And this is already a significant disadvantage. For example, you should not use DSP (cement-bonded particle boards), drywall trim, fiberboard for shelter. Due to the high content of resins, roofing material is also questionable. Some of these materials do not pass not only moisture, but also air. And then the harm from such a shelter may be more than good. As with the use of polyethylene film, the humidity under which increases greatly.

Despite all the advantages of covering materials, the best heat insulator, of course, SNOW. It may seem that there is no benefit to plants from it in winter. It is cold, so it seems that the landing should be cold. But, oddly enough, the snow warms the plants very well. Not by itself, of course. But due to its structure, it does not allow colder air flows to the soil. That is, covering the plants, the snow cools them, but saves them from even more severe cold. Under a thick snow cover, plants endure even the most severe frosts without loss. One problem: this material is very unreliable - it will fall out late, then it will melt in the middle of winter ... If a layer of loose snow lay on the site all winter, one could not worry about shelters.

To increase the effectiveness of protection, it is best to throw snow on plants already covered with foliage, spruce branches or brushwood. Heat is retained better if loose materials are used, and there should be air gaps in the shelter itself. When building a frame, make it low so that the snow can cover it as much as possible. The lower the shelter is located, the warmer it is, since only the earth warms the plants in winter. And so that the wind does not carry snow throughout the site, consider snow retention. To increase the height of the snow cover on the site, place small shields of plywood, boards or plastic wrap around apple trees and beds (especially strawberries).

No matter how ideal insulation in the winter garden is snow, it has its drawbacks. Wet snow is an unreliable shelter. It is covered with a crust, under which plants, without access to air, suffocate, wither and die. To solve this problem, you just need to destroy the crust in time.

As you can see, there is probably no ideal covering material. But we are quite capable of protecting plants from winter cold, sunburn and rodents.

HELP "SB"

In late autumn, in the pre-winter and in snowless frosts, it is dangerous:

Water the plants with warm water;

Fumigate with fires;

Lay unrotted manure, which will raise the temperature of the soil;

Spray "Epin" or "Zircon".

All these activities can wake up plants entering the state of winter dormancy. And then part of the shoots and buds will come out of hibernation. And when it gets cold, it will die immediately.

COUNCIL "SB"

In snowless frosts, it is useful to once again check and strengthen all shelters without exception. Dry frosty weather is usually accompanied by strong winds, which can break even a securely installed frame or blow off the coating. And you need to use every opportunity to protect the site from the drying wind.

FACT

With a snow depth of 1 m or more, the temperature on the soil surface rarely drops below minus 5-7 degrees. Therefore, it is very important that the snow cover is not disturbed and cold air does not penetrate to the ground.