How to save chrysanthemum in winter? Learn how to save chrysanthemum in winter.

There is a widespread belief that the chrysanthemum is a capricious flower and its cultivation is a troublesome task. This statement is absolutely not true. To answer the question: how to save chrysanthemums in winter, you need to determine which garden group your chrysanthemum belongs to.

Korean or bush. This group of chrysanthemums is the most hardy, unpretentious and winter-hardy; for the similarity of its leaves with oak trees, it was popularly called "oaks". This group is ideal for beginner gardeners, and even with minimal care, it will delight with long and long flowering.

Indian or large-flowered. This group of chrysanthemums is a cut flower and the most time-consuming to grow. To obtain large flowers requires shaping and permanent care. Due to complex agricultural technology and low winter hardiness, it is very rare.

Spherical or multiflora. A relatively new group of chrysanthemums, which quickly received wide use. Distinctive feature this group is genetically spherical shape bush.

Preparing for the winter

Regardless of which garden group your chrysanthemum belongs to at the end of August - September for successful wintering a number of preparatory activities should be carried out:

Chrysanthemum bushes should be checked for the presence of pests and diseases and, if necessary, carried out appropriate treatment, because, as you know, strong and healthy plants will better endure wintering.
Feed the bushes with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, for example, "Potassium Monophosphate", which will increase the frost resistance of plants.
When a steady cold snap sets in, prune the plants, leaving stumps no more than 10 cm high.

Wintering

There are 3 options for wintering chrysanthemums: in open field, basement or room.

Wintering in open ground. This method of wintering is suitable only for winter-hardy varieties belonging to the group Korean chrysanthemums.

After preliminary pruning, the bushes must be spudded from all sides. It is very important when performing this process to prevent the formation of pits in which water can accumulate.

Important! Water is the most terrible enemy of chrysanthemum bushes in the winter-spring period. Its accumulation will cause wetting and damping of the bushes in the spring.

Many varieties of chrysanthemums successfully winter in the garden until spring under the snow without building additional shelter, it will be enough just to spud them. But if your region is characterized by frosty winters with little snow, then for a successful wintering you need to build a simple shelter.

To equip the shelter, bricks are placed on the sides of the bush, if there are several bushes, then a whole row can be laid out of them. A wide board, a sheet of slate or iron is placed on top, which it is desirable to press down with something heavy to exclude the possibility of them being blown away by the wind. Thus, you have built a shelter that protects against water ingress and is well ventilated from the sides.

Many use another way to shelter plants for the winter. When stable frosty weather sets in, the bushes are covered with coniferous spruce branches or, in its absence, with tree branches, which are then covered with leaves. For shelter, you can also use artificial materials, such as "Spunbond".

Attention! As a shelter, you can not use sawdust or peat, which have the ability to accumulate and retain moisture, which will inevitably lead to the damping of plants.

Wintering in the basement or cellar. This wintering method is suitable for heat-loving chrysanthemums belonging to the Indian or multiflora groups, it is also used for especially valuable varieties in order to exclude the possibility of their loss.

When persistent frosts occur, the pruned bushes are dug out of the garden and, together with an earthen clod, are placed in boxes or pots, which are placed in a basement or cellar for further storage, where a low positive temperature is maintained throughout the winter.

Attention! With this method of storage, the bushes are very often affected. various rots, therefore, they must be periodically inspected and, if necessary, appropriate treatment with fungicides.

Wintering indoors. This wintering method is used mainly for late-flowering varieties from the Indian and spherical groups, which do not have time to open buds in open ground conditions.

At the onset of the first frost, these varieties are dug out of the garden, placed in containers of suitable size and transferred to a bright, cool room. Spherical chrysanthemums look especially beautiful in pots.

After the end of flowering, watering is reduced, the plants are pruned, and for further wintering, pots with plants are placed in a place with a temperature not higher than 5 degrees.

Attention! Chrysanthemum necessarily requires a dormant period at low temperatures. If this condition is not observed, the plants are exhausted and bloom not so abundantly.

Many flower growers are scared off by the need to clean the roots of chrysanthemums for the winter. But after all, the same dahlias or gladioli, which are widespread in gardens, also require annual digging and storage during low temperatures, especially planting material chrysanthemums are stored much better than ever-rotting tubers.

Regardless of which storage method you choose, none of them will give a 100% guarantee of the preservation of the roots until spring. Experienced flower growers used to preserve the most valuable varieties combined method wintering, some of the bushes are covered and left in the open ground, some are dug up.

Your brownie.

In regions where in winter there are very coldy, flower lovers should make some effort to keep chrysanthemums throughout all the cold weather. Autumn chores gardeners in such areas are not limited to pruning, they have to provide shelter for chrysanthemums for the winter, given how natural conditions on your site, and the planned care throughout growing season.

Preparatory work

Start preparing chrysanthemums for wintering in late August - early September. Feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, they will increase their frost resistance. Remove dried branches, check the chrysanthemums for diseases, and if any are found, take the necessary treatment measures. It is known after all that only healthy plants tolerate wintering well. Spud the plants on all sides. Make sure that there are no holes around the bushes in which water can accumulate, which can cause the chrysanthemums to get wet. Immediately before shelter, cut the plants, leaving the stems no more than 10 cm high.

In areas where winters are not very frosty, it is enough to sprinkle the bushes with needles or shavings, and with the first snow, begin to cover them with a snow cover (throw snow). If the winters are severe, it is necessary to build a serious shelter

Shelter construction

If the onset of winter in your area is unpredictable, start building shelter gradually. First, on both sides of a bush or group of bushes, place bricks on which lay wide boards, sheets of iron or slate. If you plan to close the chrysanthemums with a light covering material, do not forget to press down with a brick or stone from above so that it is not blown away by gusty winds. Such a shelter will provide the plants with good ventilation, prevent excessive moisture from entering the bushes, and create favorable conditions for wintering chrysanthemums in open ground.

As soon as real frosts come, additionally cover your flowers with spruce or fir spruce branches, straw or dry foliage. You can also use lutrasil or spunbond covering synthetic materials. Remember that the shelter was not too tight and heavy. And before severe cold weather, you should not cover the flowers in order to avoid their decay from high humidity and subsequent death. If there is no protection against moisture, in no case use peat or sawdust as a shelter, because under these materials the plants will most likely get wet and damp. But in any case, do not rush to carefully cover the chrysanthemums, because. a light frost will do them good, it will harden them and prepare them for frost, they will become more enduring.

Another way to shelter chrysanthemums for the winter

If for some reason you cannot build a shelter over the chrysanthemums (for example, you planned to move the flower garden to another site or plant other crops in place of the flowers), use another method. To do this, dig a trench about 0.5 meters deep and about 70 cm wide in a free area of \u200b\u200bthe garden. Cut the chrysanthemums, leaving the stems no more than 10 cm high, and carefully dig each bush, keeping a clod of earth with roots (do not shake off the soil). Place the excavated plants in a trench, sprinkle with dry foliage or straw.

When sprinkling chrysanthemums with dry foliage, make sure that it is not collected under diseased plants, otherwise you will do the flowers a disservice by being able to protect them from frost, but not from pests and diseases that will appear in the spring

With the first frosts, cover the trench with sheets of slate or iron, or other material suitable for this case. On top of the shelter, pour a layer of earth 10-15 cm high.

This option of sheltering chrysanthemums for the winter is quite laborious, but this is not its only drawback. It happens that in such vaults chrysanthemums wake up at the end of winter, when the earth begins to warm up a little on sunny days. Plants produce young shoots, which, in the absence of light and real heat, stretch out and grow pale, thin and weakened. The whole trouble lies in the fact that you do not have the opportunity to check the condition of the chrysanthemums and at least somehow help them. The first method seems to be more favorable, since there is ventilation in the shelter, and the plants do not wake up ahead of time (although this also happens, since winters in middle lane Russia is mostly unpredictable).

If you built a shelter for chrysanthemums in the form of a trench, and the winter turned out to be warm, with frequent snow melting, take care of ventilation. To do this, simply drive sticks into the trenches over the snow, and then remove them. Let there be several such holes. Perhaps this will be enough to deliver fresh air to the plants.

When determining a place for planting chrysanthemums on garden plot choose the driest point where ground water lie deep. In this case, you do not have to build bulky shelters for flowers. It is enough to cut them off immediately after flowering, gently spud and sprinkle with dry foliage, cover with straw or coniferous spruce branches, and then gradually throw snow, each time slightly compacting it.

Any shelter - complex, with covering material or simple in the form of shavings, foliage and spruce branches after wintering must be removed in a timely manner. Chrysanthemums do not like waterlogging, they quickly rot (the plant withers, the stem and leaves become Brown color) and die. Therefore, with the onset of spring, they cannot be left under cover for a long time, they need Fresh air. By the way, they are not afraid of spring cold, it even invigorates them ...

remember, that different varieties chrysanthemums tolerate winter differently. Some do not tolerate at all, they are only suitable for indoor breeding. Always ask sellers what variety of chrysanthemum you are purchasing. For example, it is believed that only varieties from the group of Korean chrysanthemums tolerate frost well even without shelters. In fact, there are many winter-hardy varieties, among them: - "Dubok"; - "Valeroi"; - "Gold of Paris"; - "Chameleon"; - "Sun"; - "Ellen" and others.

By the way, you can try to grow winter-hardy varieties on one's own. They are obtained from early spring cuttings cut from the mother bush until mid-April. To do this, in the fall, when the chrysanthemum has faded, cut the bush, dig it out, trying not to damage the root system, and plant it in a prepared pot. Store the plant in a cool place (no higher than 5-7 degrees). A month before cuttings, around mid-March, transfer the pot to warm place. After 7-10 days, young shoots from the roots will appear, at this time, intensify watering. After the appearance of 5-6 leaves on the stalk, you can use it as a cutting. Place cut cuttings in the refrigerator for 3-5 days (they will last longer), then plant in boxes and water daily. As soon as you notice that rooting has been successful (the growth of leaves becomes visible visually), reduce watering. Before landing in the ground (in central Russia this is the beginning of May), take out a box with young plants in the cold for hardening. Chrysanthemums grown in this way will not be afraid of frosty winters.

You will read about how to use a cream for problem skin in the next article.

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Chrysanthemum - very beautiful flower. But, unfortunately, she, like many other plants, can die in winter. But you can and should try to save it!

How to store?

Some do not transplant chrysanthemums for the winter, but leave them in the garden, while others leave such plants in a pot. Both options are acceptable and possible. Everything will depend on several factors:

What are the winters like in your area? If they are cold, then the soil layer probably freezes quite deeply. Because of low temperatures root system may die, so in this case it is better not to risk it and take the plants home.
Where is your site located? The first thing you should pay attention to is whether the garden is protected from the winds. Although gusts will not damage the shoots with proper shelter, the temperature will still drop due to them. Besides, strong wind can destroy the shelter, and then the chrysanthemums will freeze. The second important point is the relief of the site. If it is located in a lowland, then when spring comes and during a thaw, water will accumulate in the beds, and this can lead to dispute and death of the shoots. So the area (especially flower beds) should be flat.
What variety are your chrysanthemums? They differ: if some can even tolerate frosts, others can only withstand mild European winters, and die with a significant drop in temperature. The most frost-resistant are Korean hybrids, which are combined common name"Oak tree". This group includes many varieties different colors and sizes, but all of them perfectly tolerate even cold winters. If you are not very knowledgeable, then when buying, be especially careful, as garden chrysanthemums easily confused with capricious and heat-loving domestic. But the latter have larger leaves and large lush flowers.

Wintering in the garden

So, how to store chrysanthemums in winter? If you decide to leave your green pets in the garden, then prepare them for the winter thoroughly. Here are the most important points such training:

If the plants are planted in a recess, then either raise the soil or transplant to a higher place to avoid further debate.
When the first frost approaches, pruning should be done. To do this, cut the bush, leaving the stems about 15 or 20 centimeters high. This is necessary in order to nutrients roots were spent economically and rationally, then they will last until spring.
Now clean the flower bed well. Remove all debris, as well as fallen leaves, to avoid soil strife and stagnant moisture.
Next, hill up the bed and fertilize the soil, for example, with humus, peat, garden compost, or an all-purpose fertilizer.
Carefully cover the bush with spruce branches and sawdust. Such a shelter will protect from wind and cold, will prevent debate and save oxygen. But if you use leaves, or even more so a film, then the chrysanthemums will definitely rot.
Some gardeners who protect their plants act a little differently. They dig a hole (its depth should be about a meter), put a root with an earthen clod in it, fertilize the soil, and then cover everything with spruce branches. Such a shelter will increase survival and help the chrysanthemum survive even severe frosts.
Further in the spring (when there are no more frosts), dig out the plant, and move the bushes to their former habitual places.

Home wintering

If you decide not to take risks and move the chrysanthemums from the garden home for the winter, then it is extremely important to do it right.

A few rules:

First of all, choose the right container. Your chrysanthemum can overwinter in a pot, box or container. In any case, choose suitable size. It should correspond to the size of the root, that is, be about the same, but not smaller and not much larger.
Transplantation should be carried out approximately in the middle of autumn, that is, when the first frosts begin.
Be careful. Carefully remove the bush along with the earth and move it to a pot. Do not forget to cut the shoot (as before a shelter), it should not stretch and grow. In addition, it is desirable to fertilize the soil so that in the cold season the plant can receive everything it needs.
Pick the right room. You can’t just put the pot on the windowsill in the room! The optimum temperature for wintering is 3-7 degrees. Under such conditions, the roots will be preserved, but the chrysanthemum will not grow (in winter there must be a period of rest, otherwise the biological rhythms will be disturbed and the plant will die). You can put the container in the cellar (basement) or on the balcony. If neither is available, put it in the refrigerator.
Chrysanthemums do not need to be watered. If it began to dry, then moisten it, but minimally, otherwise it will ban.
When spring comes, and the temperature is more or less normal, you can get the pots, remove the bushes with soil from them and carefully transplant them. It is desirable to fertilize the soil. Be careful, try not to damage the roots, after wintering they are especially vulnerable.

Some useful tips for experienced gardeners and lovers:

To increase the frost resistance of chrysanthemum, it is advisable to plant it at the end of August. Then it will have time to take root before frost, and in winter the root system will harden and be stronger and properly formed.
If you have “favorites” whose death you cannot bear, then it is better to move them home. The rest of the bushes can not be transplanted.
In order for the plant to please with flowers longer and survive more than one winter, the bush should be regularly divided (along with the roots).

Practiced in several ways winter storage chrysanthemum bushes. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth mentioning right away that we are talking, first of all, about the storage (wintering) of large chrysanthemums, since small ones winter well in the ground.

First way- storage of excavated chrysatem bushes in the cellar. Everything is simple and clear here: after flowering, as close as possible to stable frosts, the roots of chrysanthemums are dug up with a lump of earth and transferred to the cellar. It is best to place them directly on the earthen floor. The bushes are stacked tightly to each other. At the same time, favorable conditions for storage are achieved - the roots of chrysanthemums receive a constant supply of moisture from the earthen floor.

Optimum temperature in the cellar from 0 to 4 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, the bushes are in a dormant state, the young shoots do not grow and do not stretch. Worse, if the temperature in the cellar is much higher. In this case, in the middle of winter, the bushes can start to grow and, due to the lack of light, the sprouts are very elongated and have a pale green color.

The advantage of this method of storing chrysanthemums is that it is possible to control the wintering of bushes and, if necessary (if possible), take the roots out of a warm cellar and place them, for example, on a veranda or in summer kitchen(if the winter is warm, without persistent frosts).

The second plus is the ability to start sprouting chrysanthemums at any time. For example, you want the same variety to bloom in your garden from summer to mid-autumn. Bring one bush of this variety into a heated room (however, the temperature in the room should not exceed 15 degrees - a desirable condition so that the sprouts do not stretch) in February, the second - after three weeks. Sprouted sprouts are separated from the mother bush and planted in cups. Perhaps half-liter plastic cups are best suited, since the earliest chrysanthemums will grow in cups for at least a month, and you will begin to form a bush even before landing in the ground.

Second way- storage of chrysanthemum bushes in trenches. A trench is dug 50-70 cm deep, approximately the same width and arbitrary length. The excavated chrysanthemum bushes fit tightly into the trench, it is desirable to fill the voids between the roots with soil. Shelter material is prepared in advance: fittings, corner, pieces of old slate and the like. The roots of chrysanthemums folded in this way are stored in open form until the first frost. It is highly desirable that the first frost slightly affects the stored chrysanthemums. This will prevent fungal diseases during storage. When frost sets in, cover the trench with available material. From above, apply a layer of dry leaves of about 0.5 m, sprinkle the leaves with winter or throw polyethylene film and secure so that the film securely covers the leaves.

The disadvantage of this method of storage is that it is difficult to control the state of overwintering plants.

Third way- wintering of chrysanthemums in the ground.

Dry leaves are prepared in advance. With the onset of persistent frosts, cover the chrysanthemum bushes with a thick layer of dry leaves (30-50 cm). Throw and fix the plastic film on the leaves. On large plantations, I just throw branches on the leaves, the cut vine of the vineyards works very well here. I throw branches so thickly that the leaves are not blown away by the winds. On thin branches from above I throw thicker ones in some places.

In general, I divide wintering chrysanthemums into two sections - sheltered and uncovered. AT warm winter uncovered chrysanthemums also survive perfectly. I also cover small chrysanthemums for insurance thin layer leaves separate bushes. Over the past ten years, we have had one treacherous winter, when small chrysanthemums that wintered without shelter froze to death.

In the spring, as soon as the frosts leave, I remove the leaves with chrysanthemums. Frosts are not terrible for them, but in the case of night frosts I throw a temporary shelter on the bushes - a thick plastic wrap or nonwoven fabric(Agrotex or Lutrasil).

With this type of wintering, the plants never stretch, even if you linger a little with the removal of the shelter.

All methods are good in their own way. It is best to use not one, but at least two of the described methods: storage in the cellar - in this case, germination can begin at the desired time, and in the ground - while wintering plants do not require storage space.

How many flowers appear in the flowerbeds in autumn! A real firework of colors! Asters, marigolds, marigolds, gladiolus, dahlias, chrysanthemums... As if autumn wants to compensate us for the lack of daylight with the brightness of autumn colors. One of my favorites are chrysanthemums, so delicate, neat and cheerful. But the main advantage is that cut chrysanthemums stand in a vase for a very long time, do not fade. But sooner or later chrysanthemums on the flowerbed also fade, and gloomy autumn they need our care preparation for winter.

For information, we turned to different sources and found in them several ways to winter chrysanthemums:

In the garden (in open ground),
In a pot in the cellar
In a pot in a greenhouse.

Wintering of chrysanthemums in the open field

Chrysanthemum is considered a fairly cold-resistant perennial that winters well in open ground. But in such a wintering, two problems may arise:

Plants can freeze if the winter is frosty, and the chrysanthemum hibernates in an open area, without snow.
Plants can get wet if there is a lot of snow, it melts intensively in the spring, the water stands and the earth becomes limp, or when the gardener covers the chrysanthemum for the winter incorrectly.

For chrysanthemums in autumn, you need to create an airy, dry shelter. Many gardeners do not recommend hilling plants with earth, humus or sawdust. You can do it simply: in the fall, break off the bushes of chrysanthemums, and cover them with the same bouquets to make a “hut”. Such a shelter in winter will keep the snow at the bush, and in the spring it will easily leave this place. In addition, such a shelter is well ventilated.

(source: video blog "Harvest beds")

The printed source (magazine "The House and I'm in it. Perennials in the garden.") also says that in the fall, when preparing chrysanthemums for winter, they need to create a shelter. But here the author recommends not to cut, but to bend down the faded branches, allowing them to go through all the phases of the growing season. naturally. The author also speaks out against sawdust or spruce branches as a shelter, as they are a source of pathogenic fungi, creating too dense, poorly ventilated shelter.

They do it like this: late autumn humus is placed under the bushes with the addition of a small amount river sand, and dry branches of trees or shrubs, dry foliage are thrown on top.

(source: magazine "House and me in it. Perennials in the garden.")

How to save chrysanthemums in winter in the cellar

Despite the fact that the chrysanthemum is a cold-resistant plant, in some years it can freeze without shelter. In order not to take risks, being afraid to ruin a rare variety, chrysanthemums can be placed in the cellar for the winter. One of the video blogs details how to:

Around the middle of November, a chrysanthemum bush is dug up and placed in a pot.
Branches break off, leaving only the tip of the stem (stump).
Top with a clod of earth with roots sprinkled with dry earth.
In this form, the pot is placed in the cellar, and in the spring the plant is again planted in open ground.

Important:

You should not dig the plant too close to the stem, because the roots of the chrysanthemum can be up to 20 cm from the stem.
Before placing a clod of earth with roots in a pot, you can let the earth dry slightly, this will help to avoid rotting of the root system during wintering.
It is not necessary to water the chrysanthemum in the cellar, otherwise the new shoots that came from the root will begin to grow, stretch out, deplete the root, and all this will harm the plant. If you see that the soil in the pot has become excessively dry, you can put a couple of handfuls of snow or moisten it with a spray bottle.
Do not pack the plant in plastic bag. The soil will accumulate condensate under the film, the roots and shoots will rot, and the plant may die from this.

If the variety is new, growing in your first year, and you do not know how it tolerates winter, leave some of the young shoots to winter in the soil. Sprinkle them with earth so that they do not freeze. And in the spring and autumn, see what will happen to them. If they survive, they will bloom - you can not dig out this variety of chrysanthemums every year, but leave it to winter in the open field.