How sweet cherries bear fruit in the middle lane. Planting cherries in spring: terms and rules for planting seedlings in open ground

Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in the middle lane - in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different size, taste and color of berries, crown height and spreading, and fruit ripening periods.

Sweet cherry: the best varieties for a personal plot

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
short stature. Such plants are less likely to freeze and higher yields.
Late flowering period. It allows you to get away from the return of the cold.
self-fertility. Such varieties do not need to be pollinated, therefore, the harvest is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all the factors, you can decide on the variety.

and the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) pyramidal in shape with a dense crown. Thick shortened petioles with three to four flowers white color. Flowering early. Fruits of universal purpose up to 9 g (considered large), glossy, burgundy to black. Juicy, sweet flesh.

Self-infertile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large - up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great growth power, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Versatile berries.

Leningrad black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. In conditions of good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting a seedling.

Maroon berries (up to 6 g) do not fall for a long time, ripen in July, the separation is dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-growing. Berries (10 g) with wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown. Yellow fruits (6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, cherry varieties are grown in the middle lane, presented in the table:

Name	Ripening terms	The weight	Colour	Taste	tree height	Winter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Julia	mid-early	large, 8 g	yellow-pink	dessert	average	No
Fatezh	Early July	4 g	rose red	dessert	average	Yes
Bryansk pink	End of July	4-5 g	pink mottled	sweet	average	winter-hardy, fast-growing
Valery Chkalov	Early July	9 g	crimson	excellent dessert	medium-sized	winter-hardy, fast-growing, very productive
Veda	July	4-5 g	dark red	the pulp is dense, sweet	undersized (2.5 m), sprawling crown, rounded	Yes
Olenka	early	Up to 10 g	red to black	dessert	stunted	increased
In memory of Chernyshevsky	June	4-5 g	Red to black	sweet and sour	tall	winter-hardy
Revna	mid-late	5 g	Bordeaux	sweet	medium height	winter-hardy
motherland	June July	6 g	Bordeaux	sweetish	medium height	very winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya Golden	June July	6 g	yellow	sweet with honey aftertaste	undersized	Yes

Video review of fruitful varieties of cherries

When to plant cherries

spring planting practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and long, harsh winters. In the conditions of the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in autumn - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the task of the gardener is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the start of the growing season (growth and development). If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. For this period, the seedlings are dug in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees before the onset of warm days. In winter, so that they do not freeze out, you need to periodically throw snow, and cover from sunburn with plywood, boards, nonwoven fabric. Polyethylene should not be used, in order to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to save several shoots, they are tied in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove top to the south, roots - to a deeper part, to the north.

The advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle lane:

During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, as it rains quite enough.
Seedlings are sold fresh, dug up recently. They still retained not dried young roots and leaves, which can be used to determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
Large selection and relatively cheap.

And, finally, in the autumn the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this will be a root plant or on a stock. If the second option, then when buying, you need to find the place of vaccination - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will later become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then a highly branched plant will be obtained with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should have a length of 15 cm, be moist and without obvious damage. Seedlings are better to choose annual or biennial.

Immediately before planting, the plant is once again inspected to identify any shortcomings and:

remove "soaked" roots;
trim very long root endings;
cut those roots that do not fit in the planting hole;
cut off the remaining foliage.

In no case should you cut the branches, only if they broke during transportation.

If there are dried roots, they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) before planting so that they are saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings have been sorted out, you need to determine a favorable place for planting cherries. It should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Sweet cherry does not "like" low-lying areas with a high occurrence groundwater, clayey and acidic peat soil.

Best of all, she "feels" on loams, sandy loams with good aeration.

The landing site is carefully dug up with the removal of weeds, leveled with a rake. landing pits
are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth is 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the pits are ready, they add:

humus - 3 buckets;
ash - 1 l;
superphosphate - 0.2 kg;
potash fertilizers - 0.1 kg.

In addition, with clay soil, a bucket of sand is poured into the pit, with sandy soil - a bucket of clay. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers at autumn planting do not contribute to avoid premature growth.

You can start landing. First, a support peg is stuck into the pit, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully spread along the slopes of the mound. You need to make sure that root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the pit and the planting is completed. The earth around is carefully rammed.

Then, they tie the plant to the support and, stepping back from the trunk 30 cm around the circumference, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the landing site with rotted sawdust or compost. If after a few days the soil settles, then it should be poured to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Cherry care after planting is practically not required:

The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, dampness and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitewashed, wrapped with burlap and pesticides decomposed. At cold winter better to throw snow.
In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened - to reflect the sun's rays and to prevent diseases.
During the growing season, sweet cherry requires watering 1-2 times a month: a young one needs 2 buckets, an adult - 5-6 buckets of water.
The first 2-3 years in the spring, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied - they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
Starting from the 4th year, a complete mineral complex is introduced.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, sod or kept under black fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of mandatory procedures cherry care is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Incorrect implementation of these measures inevitably leads to the weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset of a warm period, there is no risk of freezing. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle lane, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning and the crown is thinned.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed for the next year. So:

It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

With the implementation of all agricultural practices and with the correct formation of sweet cherry from year to year, it will delight with its flowering and abundant harvests.

Cherries are one of my favorite garden trees. Although it is relatively difficult to care for beginner gardeners, it quickly starts to produce tasty and plentiful in most years - this is a definite advantage.

Only the indefinite lifespan of a cherry tree can be considered a minus - but you won’t guess here either, because no one can give an exact answer to the question “how long a cherry tree lives” - it all depends on the soil, variety, growing conditions and, of course, on the time that You are giving care to him.

So, for example, my neighbor across the house has a sweet cherry that he inherited from the old owner, which, according to our “estimates”, is more than forty years old, and it feels excellent, yields excellent crops, tolerates frosts better than fresh seedlings, although there is no longer a former owner or a house in whose garden it grew.

Over the past eight years, I have removed only one tree, which, in principle, could still produce a crop, but was already old and, as a result of shading, the neighbor's walnut, one part of its crown dried up. Otherwise, I have 4 trees left in my garden and 5 more on the site - each from 7 to 15 years old.

All bear fruit well, I prune every 2 years, they do not allow it to develop strongly upwards, so that it is more convenient to collect berries from the stepladder. I spray in the spring, preventing future fruit fly worms from appearing. In principle, this is all my care for cherries. Considering the foregoing, there was even an idea to buy a large plot for “cheap” and set up a garden on it, consisting of only cherry trees, a very profitable business - after all, one tree in its financial terms gives from 1,500 rubles or more (sometimes many times). And my buyers have long been my own, they themselves know when to come how to collect, the branches do not break during collection, their boxes, so the financial support is very tangible. But let's move on to science first.

Cherry - the Latin name (Cerasus aviam L) refers to the genus "Cerasus Mill", subfamily plum (Prunoidecie Focke) fam. pink (Rosaceae Juss.).

Origin.

The homeland of the sweet cherry is considered to be Southern or Central Europe, the Balkan Peninsula and Asia Minor, where it is currently found in the wild.

Nutritional and medicinal value, properties.

Sweet cherry gives, perhaps, the earliest high quality products. Cherry fruits are rich in nutrients, contain up to 15% sugars, a significant amount of easily digestible micro and macro elements, vitamins A, C, B 1 , B 2 , B 6 organic acids. In the core of the stone - up to 30% of the oil used in the perfume industry. In medicine, sweet cherry fruits are used for diseases urinary tract, as well as at gastric diseases. A decoction of cherry bark acts as a fixative.

The oil prepared from the seeds of sweet cherries is an excellent remedy for chronic gout and helps to remove stones from the kidneys and liver.

biological features.

Cherry is a heat-loving plant, less winter-hardy than apple, pear, cherry, plum, but more hardy than apricot, peach and almond.

Sweet cherry is a photophilous culture.

In terms of drought resistance, sweet cherry is superior to apple, plum, pear, but inferior to almonds.

Cherry is a weakly salt-tolerant breed. Blooms in medium time before the cherry, apple trees, but later than apricot, peach and cherry plum, due to which it is more resistant to spring frosts.

Sweet cherries bear fruit mainly on bouquet twigs and mixed shoots.

Cultivated trees are durable, live 50-70 years and reach a height of 8-12 m.

Cherry varieties.

In modern horticulture, there are more than four thousand varieties of sweet cherries. Cultivated varieties are divided into two types according to the composition and density of the pulp of berries:

"Gini" - these varieties and types of sweet cherries have juicy pulp and are suitable only for eating berries without processing.
"Bigarro" - these varieties are more suitable for processing, as they have a very dense pulp.

Most common the following varieties cherries:

Melitopol black,
Valery Chkalov,
June early,
Success,
Story,
Krasnodar early,
Beauty of the Kuban
Velvet,
caucasian,
Donchanka,
Donetsk beauty,
Vasilisa.
Yaroslavna
Joy
Lyubava
Donetsk coal
Donchanka
Travneva
Annushka
Blankenburg

Planting seedlings and caring for cherries

Cherries do best in warm calcareous and loamy soils. Poor dry and gravel soils are unsuitable for it. Cherry grows poorly on saline soils.

Also, dear gardeners and summer residents, please note that sweet cherries grow very poorly in places with a high level of groundwater - it should not be planted at all in places where their level is closer than one and a half meters from the soil boundary, the roots will rot, the crop will be small and care for cherries planted in such places will take all your time.

It is recommended to plant cherry seedlings in the southern regions of gardening in the fall (until mid-November), so that the roots have time to take root before the onset of frost, and in more northern regions - in early spring, before the plants begin to actively sap flow. On vigorous rootstocks, trees should be placed according to the scheme 7 × 4-5 m, on medium-sized - 6 × 3-4 m, and on low-growth - 4 × 2-3 m.

When planting, the roots of the sweet cherry are not cut, only damaged ones are removed. Long roots are better to bend in the pit. The soil around the plant is watered and mulched. In early spring you can whitewash the trunk and skeletal branches, as well as post-plant pruning.

Depending on the natural and climatic conditions, the presence of irrigation, density, planting, age and condition of plants, the soil in the aisles of the garden can be kept under black fallow, green manure is sown or as a sod-humus system. Trunk strips are treated with cutters, and herbicides are used to control weeds.

In plantations, sweet cherries begin to annually introduce organic and mineral fertilizers in the 5th year after planting the garden. Once every 3 years, 20-40 t/ha of manure is applied. The application of mineral fertilizers is determined depending on the content of the main nutrients in the soil.

Take note of the fact (this is especially true for those who plan to plant a cherry orchard with their own hands in order to grow it later for sale) that with very wet and frequent watering, cherries (although not all varieties, but most) can crack and rot, so watering must be stopped in advance before the ripening of the berries, approximately 20-25 days in advance.

Shaping and pruning cherries.

Sweet cherry has a high budding arousal, but its shoot-forming ability is weak.

Therefore, it has a pronounced stem and layering in the placement of branches. It is recommended to form sweet cherries according to the type of tiered crown, which most fully corresponds to the characteristics of this culture.

The most widespread are sparse-tiered, vase-shaped, semi-flat and fusiform.

To form a sparse-tiered crown, three or four skeletal branches are laid in the first tier, two or three in the second, and one or two branches in the third. The distance between the tiers is 0.5-0.8 m.

The vase-shaped (cup-shaped) crown consists of 4-5 main branches of the first order (there is no central conductor). Due to the good lightening of the middle part of the crown, fruit formations live 12-15 years.

For intensive plantings with a planting pattern of 4-5×2-2.5 m, a fusiform crown is proposed. The crown consists of 3-4 tiers of lateral branches, in which there are no more than 3-4 branches.

The inter-tier space is 60 cm, and the height of the trunk is 80 cm. This type of crown requires the obligatory bending of the branches and summer pruning shoots. When pruning trees, thinning of branches and shortening of shoots are carried out, especially weakly branching varieties.

Cherries respond well to summer and spring pruning.

In this photo, the same cherry tree was pruned in a year and two.

Also, many methods of pruning and crown formation are applicable to cherries, which are described

Cherry breeding.

Wild cherry and antipka are used as vigorous seed rootstocks.

AT last years wide use get clonal rootstocks.

From medium-sized - Kolt, LTs-52, VTs-13, weak rootstocks - Guzella-5, VSL-1, VSL-2.

The best way to obtain planting material is budding, which is carried out in July-August, or spring grafting with cuttings in the nursery in March.

Pests:

cherry fly,
cherry aphid,
cherry slimy sawfly,
goose.

coccomycosis
moniliosis (gray rot of stone fruits)
clasterosporiasis (perforated spotting)

Cherry fly - how to fight, spray solution recipe

The cherry fly settles mainly on cherries.

The larva penetrates to the bone, and damage the pulp. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to regularly destroy fallen fruits, collect leaves and debris, and clean up in a timely manner, without leaving overripe fruits on the trees.

If necessary, at the beginning of the mass summer of flies, which coincides with the period of the appearance of ripening and color-changing fruits, the cherry trees are sprayed with Aktellik 500 EC.

From folk remedies effective infusion of Dalmatian or Caucasian chamomile, which is prepared from 200 grams of inflorescences, stems, leaves or roots of Dalmatian chamomile or the same number of Caucasian chamomile inflorescences. Harvest them during the flowering period. The mixture is insisted for 12 hours in 1 liter of water and drained, the crushed mass of the plant is poured once more with 5 liters of water and insisted for another 10-12 hours.

After that, both solutions are mixed together and used to treat trees.

Against coccomycosis and moniliosis of cherries (as well as cherries), the drug "Mikosan" is often used (and successfully)

How to collect

The ripening of cherries of most varieties occurs most often in the period from June 5 to July 20.

After the berries ripen, you will have only a few days to pick them - otherwise the crop will rot in the bud. Again, if you grow cherries for sale - you need to agree in advance with the buyer - so that he takes the berries from you immediately after you pick them from the tree, in my experience I can say that if boxes of cherries stand at least one night with you in the house before the sale, the percentage of waste and culling of berries will immediately increase, and this is a significant loss in money.

When picking berries by hand, various devices are used - fruit picking stands and ladders.

Advice to summer residents and gardeners who grow cherries for sale: buyers of cherries and dealers will persuade you to pick berries, tearing off the petioles, in such peculiar bunches. As my nephew says - "do not be fooled", but negotiate with the buyer only about berries.

This should be done for the reason that such harvesting is very harmful to the tree, and also greatly affects the amount of berry set that will be tied on next year. It has long been noticed that “commercial” cherry trees get sick more often, there is more care for them, and less yield, and as you understand, this can be connected with only one thing - picking berries with tassels.

Usage.

In spring and summer, cherries are eaten fresh. Compotes, jams, fruit preserves are prepared from cherries. The juice is used in the alcoholic beverage industry.

Cherries are natural.

The berries are separated from the stalks, thoroughly washed and dried. Stacked in jars, at the same time falling asleep layers citric acid and sugar, put in the refrigerator for several hours. After that, the jars are supplemented with berries with sugar to the top and sterilized: 0.5 l. - approximately 17 minutes, 1 liter. On average 22 minutes minutes, for 3 liters - 45 minutes.

For 1 kg of sweet cherry - 50 grams of sugar and 6 grams of citric acid.

Pickled cherry.

Take for pickling large fruits. At the bottom of the jar put 4 peas of pepper (allspice), 4 cloves, a bunch of cinnamon. Then clean, washed in no way rotten berries with a high level of ripening are laid tightly. For filling 1 l. jars boil 450 milliliters of water and 200-230 grams of sugar, add 60 ml of 6% apple cider vinegar or 40 ml of 9% table vinegar. 600-700 g of cherries are placed in a jar, the berries are poured with a hot mixture, the jar is covered with a lid, placed in water heated to 50 degrees Celsius and the pasteurization process is carried out for 15-17 minutes.

Used as a garnish for meat dishes put in salads.

Cherry jam.

The fruits are washed, the seeds are removed, 3 tablespoons of water (tablespoon) are added and the whole thing is boiled over low heat until half of the original volume remains.

Then sugar is poured and boiled until fully cooked.

At the end add citric acid.

The best cherry jam is made from varieties of cherries with brightly colored berries.

For 1 kilogram of cherries you will need: half a kilo of sugar, 4 grams of "lemon"

On a note:

Cherry juice for hearts and smokers

Despite the fact that obtaining juice from cherries is not the most common way to consume this fruit, cherry juice is very useful. First of all, like the fruit itself, it is unusually tasty, so you should be careful not to abuse it. One glass is enough. By the way, it should be noted that such juice is contraindicated for diabetics. But for smokers, it can be a real panacea. It contains a large number of vitamin C, which is known for its antioxidant properties. The presence of potassium, magnesium and retinol in its composition makes it extremely useful for patients with cardiovascular diseases.

Note to cherry growers

It is impossible to imagine this, even taking into account global warming, but already in June in the Moscow region ripe early varieties cherries. For example, the Sadko variety (producer of seedlings, by the way, the company of the same name with the variety) is completely ready for use on the 20th of June!

The fruits are sweet, dense, resistant to cracking. The tree begins to bear fruit in the 4-5th year. Sadko cherries are a good crop, winter-hardy and less susceptible to fungal diseases than cherries.

Cherry + sweet cherry = duke

CHERRY-CHERRY - a hybrid of cherries and cherries obtained by breeders. Its biological name is Duke. The dukes inherited all the best from their parents. Among the dukes, varieties with higher taste and large fruit sizes stand out: Beauty of the north, consumer goods black. Encounter, Miracle Cherry, Minx, Toys a.

Large fruits of duks (9-15 g) have a pleasant taste, the trees are productive, resistant to many diseases and pests. The average yield is 10-15 kg per tree. Fruiting begins in the 3rd-4th year. Frost-resistant, endure 25-degree frost.

But all varieties of duks are self-infertile. For pollination, they need only cherries; they often do not accept cherry pollen. If there are few varieties of cherries and sweet cherries in the country house, the dukes may not find a pollinator for themselves and will give a very low yield. For example, if you have a Duke Miracle Cherry growing, and a Yulia cherry is nearby, then there will not be a big harvest, because Yulia does not pollinate the miracle cherry.
If the duke (or other stone fruits) is sprayed with poisons before flowering, pollinating insects will also die.

FRUIT hatches on bouquet branches - shortened fruit formations (0.5-5 cm), located mainly at the top. They consist of a group of buds in which the lateral buds are generative (fruit) and the terminal buds are vegetative (growth). At the same time, the formation of shoots is weakened.
Experienced gardeners have noticed that before fruiting, duke trees grow strongly. And when they begin to produce a crop, growth is weakened. In this regard, the nature of cropping changes.

The first annual growths should be shortened by 1/5-1/6 of the shoot length.
The main task of spring pruning of fruiting dukes is to maintain the necessary growth of branches. When the growth weakens to 10-20 cm, it is necessary to carry out a light rejuvenating pruning: shorten the branches along the entire crown to 3-4-year-old wood. This operation is repeated every 5-6 years.

In the first year, shortening of branches will cause a slight decrease in yield. But the next one evens out, and in subsequent years it rises due to the growth of numerous side shoots.
After shortening the one-year-old branch by 1/5-1/6 of the length, you need to remove the branch - a competitor with an acute departure angle (less than 45 degrees), cut the central conductor by 40 cm so that bouquet branches form at the base.

The side branches of the dukes are pruned depending on the angle of departure (from the trunk): the greater the angle of departure, the weaker the pruning.

Lateral branches with an angle of departure of 90 degrees are not shortened, but pinched, removing the apical bud. Then more bouquet branches are formed.
For education more bouquet twigs at the base of the branches apply pruning to the side branch. This changes the direction of the branch.

The crown of the duks must not be allowed to thicken, and thinning should be applied periodically. The main attention should be paid to the correct placement of branches, subordination and prevention of the formation of sharp forks.

All sections, incl. on annual branches of dukes cover garden pitch or rannet paste, or oil paint on natural drying oil, so that pathogens do not penetrate into the wounds after pruning. Like other stone fruits, duks do not tolerate excess soil moisture. Frequent watering cause gum disease, cracks in the trunk and skeletal branches.
To maintain optimal soil moisture, mulch the near-trunk circle with mowed dried grass, weeds without seeds.

First remove the weeds, water the soil, apply complex top dressing, and only after that scatter the mulch. Dry soil cannot be mulched, as this slows down the flow of water to the roots. If you will not mulch the soil, be sure to loosen after watering. With good growth (40-60 cm) at the end of May, sow green manure between the rows. But the trunk circle should remain under black fallow.

All varieties of duks are self-fertile. They need only cherries for pollination.
The crown of the dukes must not be allowed to thicken and thinning should be applied periodically.

Cherry - planting, pruning and care: reviews and experience

My childhood passed in the Bryansk region, and there I first met cherries. True, for some reason it grew there not in the gardens of private owners, but in nurseries, and the trees were low, and the berries on them were small, yellowish-pink in color and unsweetened in taste. After my studies, I went to Ukraine and got married. The husband's parents (in the Kirovograd region) grew cherries near the house, but they were already completely different: they grew to the sky, the crowns were sparse (the branches were far from each other). The harvest from them was collected only from the lower branches, and the rest went to the birds, because it was scary to climb to the very top for the fruits. And the berries, by the way, were large, sweet, dark red.

“This is a completely different matter,” I thought. “When I have my own house and garden, I will also plant such cherries.” But at the same time, I already began to think: something should be done with the trees so that they are small in height, say, three meters - and the crown density would not suffer in this case.

Of course, no one allowed me to experiment with cherries then. It remained to wait.

Cherry pruning in two steps

When we got our own dacha near Kiev, I immediately planted a lot of fruit trees: apple trees, pears, plums, and, of course, cherries. The very first tree was Valery Chkalov. The seedling took root well and quickly began to grow on a large scale to the sides - as if showing me with all its appearance that it was time to put my dream into practice. Well, then, so be it. In June, when the young shoots began to grow the most, I shortened them by almost half. By the end of the summer, two or three new shoots had grown from these "stumps", which I also pinched. At first, I confess, it was scary: what if I ruin the seedling?

Ho next year I look - the tree began to round out, gain splendor. And I did it all over again.

And after a couple of years already collected excellent harvests from a beautifully designed tree, not bothering much with the exercises of crawling up the ladder attached to it. Then I planted a variety of Drogan yellow and again began to cut its branches in the same way. Over time, when I had already gained my hand and gained experience, I began to gradually complicate the pruning procedure, but the main ideas remained the same: I do it in the summer and barely a stage.

First. In late May - early June, I remove all weak young branches, as well as those that grow in the middle of the crown. Then I take up the central conductor: I cut it at a height of three meters with a transfer to one of the most developed side shoots. Well, then comes the turn of the branches of the new season: I shorten them by four or five leaves.

The second stage begins in August. On the branches that have grown by this time, I leave only three or four leaves. AT next year on these shoots are formed flower buds, the upper ones give new shoots. As a result, with the help of such a summer pruning, I get relatively low trees with a rounded crown without bare skeletal branches. But the main thing is that the fruits are evenly distributed on them, and it is convenient to collect them.

bees in shock

First of all, I cut off very long thin branches, as well as those that had leaves only at the very tips. And, I note, the berries after that became much larger, and their collection turned into a pleasure - there was no need to scratch your hands.

They will tell me that now you can read about everything on the Internet. Yes, I agree, but when I started experimenting, and that was 12 years ago, there was no such craze for “electronic hints”. Besides, I've checked everything. personal experience, and the authors of the sites basically reprint the same information.

And I’ll also write how I made the Renklod Altano plum bear fruit, using the advice from our magazine - to throw two handfuls of sand into the crown during flowering. I did this out of desperation, because although the tree was already mature (the trunk was about 15-20 cm in diameter), it flatly refused to give a harvest. And what do you think? Helped!

Now I always, when all my fruit trees are blooming, throw four or five handfuls of sand into the wind into their crowns (to be sure), trying to get higher. My husband, however, is critical of my experiments: “You covered all the eyes of the bees with sand.” Well, if they fell asleep, they will blink, but the result is obvious: the trees bear fruit!

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Cherry for central Russia is a new culture that came from the south. Cherry fruits have a harmonious, sweet taste, contain a lot of dry substances, sugars, mainly glucose. And also: carotene, nicotinic and salicylic acids, salts of magnesium, potassium, iron, phosphorus and trace elements. Dark-colored fruits containing a lot of P-active, phenolic and coloring substances, coumarins, have an anti-sclerotic effect. Fresh cherries are an excellent remedy for improving digestion and maintaining immunity.

ABOUT CULTURE
Sweet cherry is decorative not only during flowering, but also during the whole summer. The crowns of the trees are transparent, symmetrically folded, with large, beautiful leaves that play in the sun. In the middle of summer, the branches bend with an abundance of ripe fruits, painted in yellow, pink, red and black. In addition, cherries are a good honey plant. But one of the main advantages of sweet cherry is the high resistance of trees to such dangerous fungal diseases as moniliosis and coccomycosis. That is why it gradually replaces the cherry, which is strongly affected by these diseases, although it is more winter-hardy.
« Right choice varieties are the main factor determining the success of the cultivation of fruit and berry plants, ”I.V. Michurin. It must be zoned and tested by specialists in the given locality. Now in the Central region of Russia one and a half dozen varieties are zoned. The most common are those bred in the State Scientific Institution VSTISP of the Russian Agricultural Academy and the All-Russian Research Institute of Lupine, such as: Fatezh, Chermashnaya, Tyutchevka, Teremoshka, Revna, I put, Bryansk pink, etc.
According to the leading cherry breeder N.G. Morozova, these varieties perform well in the Moscow region. We worked with varieties Fatezh, Chermashnaya and Teremoshka in the Demonstration Garden of the State Scientific Institution VSTISSP of the Russian Agricultural Academy (Moscow Region) and in the garden of the Phytogenetics Research and Production Center for Biotechnology (Tula Region). The main test for them was the harsh winter of 2005-2006, when frosts in the Moscow region after a thaw reached -34.5°C, and in the Tula region - up to -39°C. The studied varieties of frost tolerated satisfactorily: freezing did not exceed 2 points, while in other varieties of cherries and cherries, complete freezing of generative buds was observed. But in the Tula region, cherry varieties suffered more from a frost of -39 ° C. The Fatezh variety turned out to be the most winter-hardy here, which in subsequent years fully recovered and distinguished itself by abundant fruiting.

Characteristics of the studied varieties.

FATEZH. The variety was obtained by H.K. Enikeev and A.I. Evstratov (GNU VSTISP Rosselkhoz Academy) from free pollination of the variety Leningradskaya yellow. Zoned in the Central region in 2001.
Differs in winter hardiness, productivity. Fruit High Quality, mid-early ripening (July 9-15), weigh from 4 to 6 g, rounded flattened, pink, with a red blush. The pulp is dense, cartilaginous (bigarro type), juicy, light pink. The taste is sour-sweet (4.7 points), dessert. The fruits contain 19.8% solids, 12.3% sugars, 0.5% acids, 28.8 mg/100 g of ascorbic acid.
The stone is small, well lagging behind the pulp. The connection of the fetus with the stalk is fragile and the separation from it is dry. Fruits of universal purpose.
Trees, up to 5 m high, come into fruition for 4-5 years of life and bloom in the 1st decade of May. Despite self-infertility, thanks to such pollinating varieties as Chermashnaya, Krymskaya, Sinyavskaya and other simultaneously flowering varieties, Fatezh sweet cherries can produce up to 50 kg/tree. over 20 years. Its winter hardiness is higher than that of other varieties of cherries, and resistance to moniliosis and coccomycosis is close to absolute.

Chermashnaya. The variety was obtained by H.K. Yenikeev and A.I. Evstratov from free pollination of the Leningrad black. Zoned in the Central region in 2004. The variety is characterized by early ripening and high productivity. Fruit good quality, ripen in the 2nd half of June, weighing 4.5 g, rounded, yellow. The pulp is yellow, juicy, tender. The taste is sweet with sourness by 4.4 points, dessert. The fruits contain 17.0% solids, 11.5% sugars, 0.6% acids. The stone is small, well lagging behind the pulp. When ripe, the fruit easily and almost dryly breaks away from the stalk.
Enters fruiting in the 3-4th year, blooms in the 1st decade of May. The variety is self-infertile, well pollinated by varieties: Fatezh, Sinyavskaya, Krymskaya, etc. Fruits up to 18 years, giving 25-30 kg/tree. Resistance to winter frosts is slightly lower than that of the Fatezh variety. Immune to moniliosis and coccomy-goat. Resistance to spring frosts is above average. Trees up to 5 m high.

TEREMOSHKA. This variety was bred in All-Russian Research Institute lupine by breeders M.V. Kanyiiina, A.A. Astakhov, L.I. Zueva and zoned in the Central region.
The variety stands out for its restrained tree growth, productivity and large bigarro-type fruits.
Fruits weighing 5-6 g, oval-heart-shaped, dark red (almost black). The pulp is dark red, dense. The taste is harmonious, sweet with sourness (4.7 points). Fruits of medium-early ripening (2nd decade of July), contain 17.5% solids, 15.5% sugars, 0.4% acids, 14 mg/100 g of ascorbic acid. The stone is small, well separated from the pulp. Separation from the stalk is dry. Fruit cracking in wet years is negligible.
The variety begins to bear fruit at the age of 4-5, blooms in the 1st decade of May, yields 15-20 kg/tree. Winter hardiness and frost resistance are medium. Highly resistant to moniliosis and tolerant to coccomycosis.

LANDING
For successful cultivation sweet cherries, certain rules must be observed when choosing a place for planting, as well as during the planting itself and subsequent care of the plant.
Place. At present, sweet cherry can be cultivated in the European part of Russia up to the latitude of St. Petersburg. It is better to plant it next to the cherry or where it grew, on the upper or middle parts of a gentle slope (5-8 °), southern, southwestern and southeastern sides. It is useless to plant cherries in lowlands or river valleys.
Drafts are contraindicated for cherries, especially from the north and east, therefore, before landing, it is necessary to provide appropriate cover
(in the form of shields, and better - forest strips of birches and other tall trees). It should be borne in mind that the groundwater level should not exceed 1.5 m.
Soils in terms of mechanical composition should be light, medium loamy or sandy, well-drained, cultivated, with a pH close to 6.
Landing. They dig a hole 70x70x60 cm, on clay soils - at least 100x100x90 cm. The upper fertile layer of the earth (20-30 cm) is thrown in one direction, the lower one in the other. A stake is placed in the center of the hole. The top layer of soil mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers is poured into the pit by 2/3 (knoll): 15-20 kg of rotted manure or compost, 1 kg of simple or 0.5 kg of double superphosphate, 0.1 kg of potassium sulfate (potassium chloride, or 1 kg wood ash- to reduce acidity. Do not add lime to avoid burns).
The planting is carried out by two people: one sets the seedling on the north side of the stake, spreads the roots along the mound, and the other covers them with fertile soil. To fill the gaps between the roots with soil, the seedling is slightly shaken when backfilling and the soil is carefully trampled down. After planting, the root neck (the place on the seedling where the roots end and the trunk begins) should be located 3-5 cm above the soil level. A hole is made around the seedling and the plants are watered (1-2 buckets of water). When water is absorbed into the soil, the hole is mulched with peat or humus to preserve moisture. The seedling is tied to the stake with twine or a film in the form of a figure eight. With a high level of groundwater, plants are planted in flowerbeds with a diameter of 2.5-3 m and a height of up to 1 m. It is better to plant a cherry orchard according to the 5x4 m scheme.
Cherry is a self-fertile, cross-pollinated crop, therefore, for regular and good fruiting, it is necessary to plant at least 2 (and preferably more) trees of different varieties. One of the best, universal pollinators (according to N.G. Morozova) is the Krymskaya variety. Although it is small-fruited, this disadvantage can be neglected, because it guarantees a high fruit set in other varieties growing in the neighborhood.

CARE FEATURES
Fertilizers. In the first year after planting, organic and mineral fertilizers do not need to be applied. In the next three years, only spring application per 1 m2 of the near-barrel circle, 20 g of urea. When the trees enter fruiting, they annually apply per 1 m2 of the trunk circle: 10 kg of manure or compost, 25 g of urea, 60 g of simple or 30 g of double superphosphate, 20 g of potassium sulfate (potassium chloride) or 200 g of wood ash.
During the period of full fruiting (at the 7-8th year of life), the norms of organic fertilizers are increased to 15-20 kg / m2 of the near-stem circle, the same amount of mineral fertilizers is applied. Urine-wine is applied in the spring, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers in the fall, the tree trunks are immediately dug up to a depth of 15-20 cm. Closer to the stem, the digging depth is reduced so as not to damage the roots.
Depending on the acidity of the soil, liming should be carried out every 5-6 years, adding 400-800 g of slaked lime per 1 m2. On light soils, the rate of lime is reduced, on heavy soils, they are increased. In autumn, lime, along with potash fertilizers, is scattered over the soil and dug up.

Watering.
AT dry summer, especially before the harvest ripens, the trees are watered. Closer to autumn, watering is limited or completely stopped.

Pruning.
Sweet cherries must be pruned annually: shaped, thinned and rejuvenated (when the tree is aging). Remove all branches growing inside the crown, forming sharp forks, rubbing neighboring branches, shortening long branches that violate the symmetry of the crown, removing the stem and basal shoots. With the aging of the tree, the growth is greatly shortened (up to 15 cm), the fruits become smaller and fall off early, the general condition of the tree worsens. In this case, it is necessary to shorten the branches of the 1st order (growing from the main trunk) to the side branch directed outward. Sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing dry branches. Cuts on a tree should be made, without leaving stumps, on a ring, with a well-honed tool and treated with garden pitch. To reduce growth, trees, after entering into abundant fruiting, are cut at a height of 2.5-3 m to a strong side branch.

Disease prevention.
When cultivating sweet cherries and other stone fruits, gardeners in the Moscow region often encounter the following phenomenon: in May, the trees bloom profusely, then, after a short growth, individual skeletal branches or trees completely dry out. Most often this is due to the defeat of the forks of the skeletal branches or the trunk with a fungal disease - cytosporosis, the mycelium of which easily penetrates through the loose tissue of the bark of the forks and the trunk. Therefore, one of the main measures for the care of cherries is the spring and autumn whitewashing of boles and bases of skeletal branches, which will protect the trees not only from this fungal scourge, but also from sunburn. As a whitewash, it is better to use lime mortar (3 kg of freshly slaked lime + 2 kg of clay per bucket of water). If it is difficult to find freshly slaked lime, then you can purchase a special one in gardening stores. water-based paint intended for whitewashing fruit trees. And in lime mortar, and in such paint for better protection from a fungal infection, it’s good to add copper sulfate.
Of the pests of cherries, the most harmful are weevil, cherry fly and aphids. To combat the weevil in the spring, it is good to use special glue, applying it in wide rings to the stem and the base of the skeletal branches. Against cherry flies and aphids, a soap solution (300 g of soap per 10 liters of water) or drugs: Decis, Inta-Vir, etc. is used. To protect against pests, you can also hang traps on trees in the form of small containers with fermented kvass slurry or jam.

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Sweet cherries do not lose popularity among gardeners. The emergence of new varieties with a high level of survival only further expanded the geography of cultivation of this tree. The article contains video and photo instructions, advice from summer residents and step-by-step recommendations on how to properly plant and care for garden tree spring.

What is the correct process of spring planting cherries

Decorate your site during flowering and delight with sweet and juicy fruits. Seedlings are usually planted in autumn or spring - this is optimal time. Spring planting will give the tree more chances to fully take root before winter, survive and develop normally. It is planting in the spring that is recommended for central Russia.

The correct procedure consists of the following aspects:

purchase or preparation of a seedling;
choice of landing site;
timing;
disembarkation process and its features.

Buying or preparing a seedling

The main advice for purchasing a seedling is to do it in a specialized point of sale, which has permits, or in a nursery. Ideally, a varietal passport should be attached to the sweet cherry, in which the nuances of planting and care are noted. Other recommendations:

the seedling should not be more than three years old;
there should be no mechanical damage, unusual spots or cracks on the root and bark;
the root must consist of at least three branches with a thickness of 2 mm or more.

Attention! Check the root system by making a small cut, - brown shade pith is a sign of frostbite. Buy only a seedling with buds and make sure it has room for grafting.

You can also grow a tree from a stone yourself, it's not difficult. For this summer, collect "hearts" ripe berries, mix with wet sand and put in the cold. In the spring, plant the seeds in the ground and eventually get a young seedling. True, such a cherry will not be varietal.

To prepare the cherry, follow these steps:

Cut off the damaged parts of the root.
Soak the root if it is dry.
Remove all leaves. They will take moisture from a young tree, which will affect its growth and strengthening in the ground.

A tree for spring planting should be bought in the fall. At this time in the fruit tree market big choice, and you can control the storage of cherries for spring.

Advice. It is best to dig a seedling for the winter: make a half-meter deepening in the ground and put a tree in it at an angle of 45 ° C. The top should be directed to the south. Cover the seedling well with earth and fill it with plenty of water - the softened earth will stick to the bark and roots and protect them from frost.

Choosing a place and time for landing

Choose a place taking into account the fact that the tree is thermophilic. The site must meet the following conditions:

well lit;
be protected from northern winds and drafts;
be on an elevated place or an artificial embankment;
contain fertile soil with substances necessary for cherries;

have moderately moist, loose soil that passes oxygen well;
do not contain crushed stone or clay in the composition of the soil;
side by side with another sweet cherry or cherry for good pollination;
be at least 7 m away from the apple tree.

Also make sure that groundwater is not located close to the surface.

Advice. To get a plentiful and high-quality harvest, it is very important to choose the right time. A characteristic sign for spring planting is that the seedling should not yet “wake up” from the winter dormancy. In central Russia, this is usually the period from mid-April to the first week of May.

Step by step instructions for planting cherries

When you have chosen a place and prepared planting material, you can start disembarking:

Dig a hole. Its parameters are: 0.5 m deep and 1 m wide. In the process, set aside the fertile top layer.
If there are several seedlings, the step between them should be 2 m or more.
Mix fertile soil with compost and complex fertilizer and place in the bottom of the hole. First, stick and drive in a high peg for the seedling into the middle of the hole.
Set the seedling straight. Fill it with earth so that the neck of the root protrudes about 3 cm above the surface. The soil needs to fit tightly around the root, excluding voids, so it’s worth lightly tamping the soil with your foot during the digging process.
Protect the tree with an earthen roller. Pour 20 liters of water into the middle.
Sprinkle the soil around the seedling with peat. It will prevent water from evaporating.
Tie the tree to the stake. The barrel must not be overstretched.

Cherry transplantation is carried out only in the spring, around mid-March. The seedling is prepared in autumn. If such a need arose, you need to carefully remove the tree from the ground and dig it in a horizontal position, well covered with soil and, if possible, with snow. The depth of the new pit is from 1 m.

The soil under the transplanted tree should be well tamped, poured abundantly with water and sprinkled with peat. Tree branches need to be shortened slightly. Remember, sweet cherry transplantation rarely ends in success, so it is better to foresee all the factors in advance and not change the “residence” of the tree.

Cherry planting: photo

Cherry is one of the most ancient fruit plants loved by many for its great berry flavor and health benefits. It was known 2000 years ago, the Romans gave it the name "Kurasunte fruits".

Cherry is a capricious tree, it has many nuances in cultivation and the gardener needs to know: when and how to plant cherries correctly, which varieties to choose and how to achieve abundant fruiting.

Cherries are considered the closest relative of cherries. Many confuse cherries and cherries, only in 1491 it was determined by botanists that this different cultures, although they belong to the same family, Cherries are often called "bird cherries", and in Europe even Chekhov's famous play is called "The Cherry Orchard".

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders bred and dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides a more convenient collection of fruits.

The color of the fruit varies depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the state of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and gini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Sweet cherry is self-fertile, for pollination it is necessary to plant 2-3 other varieties of it nearby. Cherry Iput is especially good for pollination.

The life expectancy of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used for 15-20 years. Sweet cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short period of fruiting. There are 4,000 varieties of sweet cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

When to Plant: Fall or Spring?

It is believed that sweet cherry is a tree that is more suitable for the south of the country, as it is very vulnerable to low temperatures and freezes during the first constant frosts, but nowadays, thanks to the efforts of breeders, the cultivation of sweet cherries has become possible in other regions.

Cherry varieties have been created that correspond to different climatic conditions, are resistant to freezing and begin fruiting in the right time for this region.

In the southern regions, sweet cherries are planted mainly in autumn during leaf fall. Spring planting threatens the seedling with high temperatures already in March - April, dry winds and large quantity pests. In autumn, the tree manages to take root well and by spring - it is already a stronger plant, especially since there are no severe frosts in the south in winter.

For the Central regions of Russia, Siberia, Far East recommended planting cherries in the spring, so that for summer period The seedling is strong and rooted. Spring for planting a tree has another indisputable advantage: during the entire summer time, the gardener daily monitors the development and condition of the plant. He will be able to quickly apply the necessary measures in case of drought or excess moisture, pest attack or plant disease.

Preparing berries for planting in spring

Variety selection

A mistake for many lovers of sweet cherries is to choose a variety that is not zoned for this region. Gardeners are tempted by beautiful descriptions, bright labels and do not take into account the survival of seedlings, the impact of climate and biological features cherries.

This is especially true for areas with severe and long winters. Moreover, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account not only sub-zero winter temperatures, temperature drops in the spring are very dangerous - return frosts.

For the death of seedlings, it is sufficient to lower the temperature after a thaw to -2 ° C, if it does not have high level winter hardiness. Experienced gardeners in such a situation additionally use smoke from fires.

The composition of the soil of a given region, the duration and intensity of daylight hours, and the presence of stable cold winds can also affect the yield.

The result is small crops, freezing, low taste qualities and sometimes death of the plant.

central region	Siberia	Far East	Leningrad region, Northwestern region
pink sunset	Tyutchevka	Sakhalin	Leningrad black
and the way	Symphony	Rechitsa	Dawn
Italian	Revna	Ordynka	Revna
Krasa Zhukova	Bryansk pink	Bigarro Bulat	Brianochka
Valery Chkalov	Fatezh	Francis	Bryansk pink
Teremoshka	Northern	Dragana yellow	Rechitsa
Revna	In memory of Astakhov	Ariadne	Teremoshka
Brianochka	Kozlovskaya Michurina	sweet pink	Fatezh

For Leningrad region and the North-Western regions, no special zoned varieties have been bred; gardeners successfully grow the most frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties intended for the Urals and Siberia.

Now 2 varieties are being developed for this region - Seda and Yurga. A serious disadvantage for growing sweet cherries in these areas is the cold winds from the Baltic Sea.

Landing dates for different regions

Soil and planting requirements

The soil for sweet cherries should be with a breathable structure, well warmed up, moderately moist, with low acidity.

The level of groundwater is very important, since already at a level of 1.5 m from the surface of the earth gum production begins and the cherry dies. It is preferable to plant it on nutrient-rich loams; peat soils, clay, and sand are categorically not suitable.

It is better to choose a landing site for sweet cherries on the southern and southeastern slopes, well warmed by the sun. Lowlands from which water does not leave for a long time are not suitable for her, in addition, she must be protected from the north winds.

Soil preparation

When planting in autumn, the ground is completely dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, adding humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. meter.

When planting in the spring, the ground is prepared in the fall by digging it up and adding fertilizer. Many gardeners and planting holes prepare in the fall.

If the land is not suitable for planting cherries in your area, then this can be corrected. Sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil. Additionally, a soil mixture is added, which is sold in specialized stores, manure or humus. The earth is dug up and in a few years it is ready for planting cherries.

Light mode

Sweet cherry is very demanding on the light regime. She feels good around stunted trees, forming a crown in the middle and upper tiers for better absorption of sunlight.

Cherry shading in high gardens fruit trees leads to the fact that fruiting switches to the upper branches, the fruits become smaller and their number decreases. For cherries, it is better to choose open sunny and warm place. For better coverage of the crown, annual pruning is used.

Sweet cherry is contraindicated high humidity air, the fruits begin to crack and rot, but excessively high dryness leads to the fact that the leaves begin to fall off.
Cherry does not tolerate neighborhood with walnuts, mountain ash, pear, peach, black currant. Apple, plum and cherry trees are recommended as neighbors.
The distance between the trees should be at least 4-5 meters, due to the highly developed root system of the surface occurrence.
Once every 5 years, the soil around the cherry must be limed.
Do not buy 3-year-old seedlings, they practically do not take root.

When planting cherries, care must be taken to protect them from birds. Otherwise, most of the berries will be pecked and unusable. To do this, many people hang shiny, rustling foil tapes or old computer disks on a tree. As a rule, this does not help, therefore, it is necessary to prepare a cellular mesh (50x50 mm) in advance and throw it on the sweet cherry during the fruit ripening period.

Planting hole preparation

Early planting dates can kill a seedling due to recurrent frosts, and a delay can lead to long-term survival due to high sun activity. The best time- mid-April, until the buds begin to awaken.

Preparation instructions:

The pit for planting cherries should be 80 cm wide by 100 cm and 70 cm deep; the pit should not narrow downwards. With such dimensions of the pit, the root system should fit freely in it. A stake is driven in nearby - a support up to 80 cm high for bandaging a seedling.
The planting hole is filled with a nutrient mixture to 1/3 of the depth: 2 parts of the topsoil; 1 part of humus; 1 part peat; 100g superphosphate; 50 g of potassium sulfide;

You can use another composition for the mixture: 2 buckets of compost, 1 kg of ash and 400 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers are not added to avoid root burns.

The pit is filled with a mixture 10 days before planting, mixed, the composition should settle.

Seedling preparation before planting

Depends on the choice and preparation of the seedling further development plants:

The seedling must be grafted, have a strong trunk that prevails over the side branches.
You should not buy a seedling with a forked trunk, under the weight of the fruit in the future they may break.
It should have a developed root system without defects, with roots 15 cm long. If the root cut has a brown tint, then this is a sign of frostbite.
The day before planting, the seedling is placed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
Before planting the seedling in the planting hole, cut off the damaged roots.
Long roots are cut, as the root system must fully enter the planting hole.
Before planting, all leaves are removed, otherwise the seedling will dehydrate.

Landing step by step instructions

Pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.
Place the seedling in the recess of the pit next to the support, the neck of the seedling should be 4-5 cm above ground level.
Cover the roots with soil.
Seal the top layer and fix the seedling to the support with a soft tape. The figure-eight loop is made free so as not to damage the bark of the tree.
Make a circular recess around the perimeter of the pit for watering.
Pour 2 buckets of water, make sure that after the soil settles, the root neck is at ground level.
Trim the main trunk up to 80 cm, and side branches up to 50 cm. This is necessary to form the correct crown.
Planting cherries is desirable to produce in cloudy weather.
Seedlings take root best at the age of 1-2 years.
To attract bees, mustard is planted next to the cherry, experienced gardeners spray the tree with a solution of water with honey.

Further care for cherries

Watering

Sweet cherries require watering 3 times per season: in May during the period of increasing green mass, before flowering, in June, when the fruits begin to ripen and before winter.

20 days before harvesting, watering is stopped, otherwise the fruits will crack and rot. Watering is carried out to a depth of up to 40 cm, and pre-winter - up to 70-80 cm. In dry weather, the frequency of watering is increased. In the second half of summer, watering is not recommended, as this reduces the frost resistance of the tree.

top dressing

Top dressing in the first year should not be applied, since the seedling received all the necessary substances during planting. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied for the 2nd year of tree growth. In the spring, 120 g of urea must be scattered around the perimeter of the near-stem circle, planting it in moist soil.

In the fourth year of growth, the roots will go beyond the near-trunk circle, so fertilizers are applied further from the trunk into the furrows made. In the spring, 120-200 g of urea are laid in moist soil, at the end of summer - 400 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.

The width of the near-stem circle in the second year is increased to 1 meter, and 50 cm are added every year. Cherry well perceives additional top dressing with ash.

The entire summer period until autumn, weeding and loosening of the near-stem circle is necessary, since the sweet cherry cannot stand the neighborhood with weeds.

Crown shaping, pruning

Sweet cherries need mandatory annual pruning, otherwise good harvest will not. It can be of 3 types: forming - in the spring, sanitary - in the fall and rejuvenating when the tree ages. For all options, the mandatory removal of branches by 40 cm from the ground. When pruning, the places of cuts are treated with garden pitch.

Formative pruning creates correct crown, this is especially important for young cherries. Before bud break, the main trunk and upper branches are shortened by 1/3 of the length, the branches growing inward are cut out, only those that grow in relation to the trunk at an angle of 45 degrees are left from the side shoots.

Such pruning is called cupped. It provides good lighting for the tree, stimulates fruiting and simplifies harvesting.

Sanitary pruning involves the removal of dried, broken, diseased branches.

Anti-aging pruning helps cherries return yields

Diseases of young cherries

Cherry is quite resistant to diseases, but there are exceptions. Verticillosis - fungal disease for many stone fruit crops, it is also dangerous for cherries.

First, the bark bursts, then the flowers fall, the leaves turn yellow and gum appears on the trunk. You can use drugs such as Polychrome, Fundazol, Topsin. Clean cracks and cover with clay with 2% copper sulphate. But, as a rule, the treatment is ineffective, the tree dies within a year.

During the period of cold and rainy spring, sweet cherries may be affected by bacteriosis (tree cancer). It is not possible to save the sweet cherry, scientists have not yet created a remedy for this disease. The tree must be cut down and burned.

Growing mistakes

Mistake	Cause
Buds do not bloom in time	Deepened root neck when planting
Reset ovary and foliage	Untimely watering during the growing season
tree freezing	Incorrect variety selected for this region
No regular and plentiful harvest	No annual pruning
Lack of fruits	No cross pollination
Cracking of the bark of trunks	Sunburn, no whitewashing of the trunk in spring and autumn
Comedy treatment, death of a tree	Rocks, gravel in the composition of the soil, diseases
Yellowing, crimson coloring of leaves after planting	Watering cold water from wells
No side branch	The trunk was not trimmed when landing

Cherries are not only tasty, they are also very healthy.

It regulates cardiac activity, “fights” anemia, improves immunity and lowers blood sugar levels, improves eyesight and relieves irritability.

Cherry is especially appreciated by women for its properties to rejuvenate the skin, relieve swelling, and the possibility of using it in various diets.

Growing sweet cherries is a laborious process, but the tree will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

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