Hydrangea blue shelter for the winter. Shelter of hydrangeas for the winter

For many years, hydrangeas have firmly taken their place not only in gardens and flower beds, but also in the hearts of flower lovers. Novice gardeners are frightened by the capriciousness of the plant. Consider the care and preparation in the fall on the eve of winter, so that hydrangeas will delight you for many years.

treelike and paniculate endure the cold of the middle lane and the suburbs, even Siberian frosts, heavy snowfalls protect the bush. If this plant is frozen, it is easily restored in the spring.

The youngest bushes should be covered from the wind with covering material, spruce branches, etc. It is worth protecting plants from the cold if the winters in your region are not snowy, but with frost.

For the rest, it is enough just to spud the bushes, at the beginning of autumn, remove all the leaves, leaving only the top ones, so that the bush becomes “wooden” faster.

The most demanding for winter shelter was the large-leaved and petiolate liana-like hydrangea, which does not tolerate even slight frosts. The latter must, if necessary, be removed from the support.

You need to cover before the thermometer drops to -3 degrees

Methods and options for sheltering hydrangeas and preparing for winter

Sawdust, branches and foliage

Prepare a bedding of sawdust, spruce branches around the plant, even dry leaves will do. Lower the shoots to the sides from the center of the bush to the ground, in a circle. Secure them with staples, branch horns, etc.

Any blanket will serve material like spunbond, lutrasil, agroteka. The colder the winter, the more layers will be required. Lapnik, etc. can be alternated with covering material, sawdust.

It is acceptable to use compost soil as the penultimate layer. The last layer to choose from: roofing felt, wooden shield, film. Strengthen it with bricks or stones so that gusts of wind do not rip the shelter.

You can collect shoots, tie them together and bend them to the ground. Fasten with staples or in another way and “cover” with the same sawdust, spruce branches, foliage.

On the sides build supports using scrap materials. Lay an agrotech (lutrasil, etc.) on them, and on top of that, something that will protect the plant from precipitation.

A warning to beginners: when bending branches to the ground, do not break them.

Tying shoots: what you need to prepare

If the hydrangea is very lignified, then tie the shoots together and wrap them in several layers with the available agrofibre. Fence the bush with a net or other materials (planks, stakes) so that the frame is 15-20 cm higher than the plant.

Inside (between the fence and the bush) pour sawdust, needles or foliage. From above, use a film, roofing felt, etc.

Shelter by air-dry method

The framework that has already been discussed is used. We cover it with covering material in several layers so that it sags a little.

If a film is used on top, pull it taut, then the air between the layers of our “quilt” will allow to keep additional heat.

The advantages of this method:

• protective layers cannot harm the plant
• in case of warming, the bush will not rot
• convenient to ventilate

Save the frame until next winter! It can be used for several years in a row, which will speed up the preparation for cold weather in the future.

The shelter method using frames is convenient in that you can make one for several plants.

Why and how to prune varieties for the winter

There is no consensus on the best time to prune plants. Need to catch up in the spring prune while dormant. In autumn, there is usually more time for gardening. no risk of being late.

Flower buds are laid in the summer, that is, it blooms on last year's shoots.

For her, it is permissible to shorten the branches to form a beautiful bush shape, remove dead shoots. Autumn pruning is preferred.

Dried flowers are removed in autumn. In the spring, sanitary pruning is shown, weak and damaged branches are removed. One-year-old shoots are shortened, keeping no more than five buds. Young shoots will appear quickly, flowering will become more abundant.

Cut like a tree, removing old and interfering shoots without touching the main ones. If hydrangea rejuvenation is required, cardinal pruning is possible, to a height of 10 cm from the ground.

If the bush is large, do not rush to cut it off entirely, stretch the procedure for 3 years. Paniculata hydrangea forms flower buds on the shoots of the current year. They form on branches over two years old.

In autumn and spring, the same pruning activities are carried out as with tree hydrangeas. In the future, pruning is shaping, depending on the type of crown desired.

It is important to remove inflorescences, since the thin branches with soft wood of the paniculate hydrangea suffer due to the accumulation of snow.

We described in detail the subspecies of this variety in the article.

A very lush shrub that blooms on the shoots of the current year, but its pruning is only shortening the stems and forming a crown.

The first 4 years are very weak growth. Therefore, at this time it is not cut off. Then pruning to strong buds and sanitary is acceptable.

Her considered a form of large-leaved, but it is advised to prune as such shrubby species. These include hydrangeas:

• oaky;
• radiant;
• ashy;
• rough or rough;
• Sargent, or Sargent;
• motley.

They are cut to approx. as well as treelike or paniculate. Young bushes are not pruned, two-year-olds are only sanitary pruned, from the third year pruning to 2-3 strong buds

• stimulating for lush flowering (retain 3-4 buds on the shoot);
• sanitary(removal of diseased, damaged branches;
• formative and thinning (to give a beautiful shape to the plant and to reduce the density of shoots);
• rejuvenating pruning. On an adult plant, up to 10 strong shoots are preserved, of which no more than half are last year's. Shoots older than 4 years and those that give a weak increase are cut off at the root.

In large-leaved hydrangeas, only faded inflorescences are removed in autumn.

The main method of caring for a cut hydrangea is top dressing and mulching.

How to help hydrangeas recover after winter

In order for the plant to get out of the winter well, do not forget cut off the bottom leaves and stop watering the plant, then it will become stronger. With the onset of heat, gradually remove the layers of shelter, if you made it.

A large-leaved hydrangea can be fully opened when the temperature is above zero outside, not only during the day, but also at night.

Assess the condition of the plant after wintering, whether there are spots or blackness on the leaves. Severely affected shoots and leaves must be removed. Then treat with Bordeaux salt or copper preparations and repeat it after 2-3 weeks.

For prevention carry out regular treatment with universal preparations against fungi, bacterial infections, but not earlier than once every 21 days.

The first top dressing should contain potassium, phosphates and urea. Nitrogen stimulates the growth of new shoots and leaves.

Lush and colorful flowering will be the subject of your joy and pride. As noted in the article, large-leaved the most capricious.

Large-leaved proved to be the most fastidious in terms of care

It must be well wrapped up for the winter. In general, caring for hydrangea bushes is simple and comes down to proper pruning and regular feeding. The time spent is worth it to admire the results of labor.

Different types and varieties of hydrangeas tolerate winter cold in different ways. In addition, they can grow in different climatic zones, so there are nuances of caring for them in the fall in preparation for the upcoming cold weather.

Below you will find information about autumn care and preparing the plant for winter, about pruning hydrangeas in the fall and sheltering them for the winter, which will be useful for both beginners and experienced gardeners who have recently planted this perennial in their summer cottage.

How to care for hydrangeas in the fall: the secrets of care and preparation for the cold

The composition of measures for the care of hydrangeas in the fall includes the following:

• Eradicating autumn spraying (treatment) from diseases and pests(as an option, you can use a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid).
• Transfer(but only paniculate or tree-like varieties, large-leaved is better to transplant in the spring).

• reproduction(by dividing the bush or digging layering, but cuttings are carried out only in summer).

By the way! You can transplant a shrub by propagating it by dividing the bush.

• Feeding and watering (more on this later).
• Pruning.
• Shelter for the winter.

And especially important properly prepare the hydrangea for the winter, namely to spend autumn pruning and shelter for the winter.

Autumn top dressing of hydrangea and its watering regimen

When the hydrangeas have finished flowering and their buds begin to dry out gradually, it's time for autumn top dressing, which should help the shrub go into wintering in a strong state, successfully laying vegetative and flower buds for future growth and flowering in the new year.

In autumn, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers must be applied to the soil, hydrangeas are no exception. During this period, it will be good to feed them with potassium sulfate - as a potash fertilizer, superphosphate - as a phosphate fertilizer. Or you can buy ready-made autumn fertilizer.

Remember! No nitrogen fertilizers in the autumn, and no ash as a potash fertilizer, because. it alkalizes the soil, and for hydrangeas, on the contrary, fertilizing that acidifies the soil is needed.

But watering in the fall is practically stopped (especially if the weather is cloudy and / or rainy), although, as you know, hydrangea loves moisture very much, so it is very important to water it regularly during hot periods of the year during abundant flowering.

Features of the autumn pruning of hydrangeas

Many lovers of this wonderful flower often have questions about this procedure: when is it better to prune - in autumn or spring; Do I need to prune my hydrangea for the winter? It is worth exploring these issues in more detail. In addition, if this procedure is carried out incorrectly, then the shrubs can bloom poorly and, in principle, leave the gardener without their beautiful flowers during the entire season.

Note! Details about pruning hydrangeas in the fall you can read

Do I need to prune for the winter

In autumn, it is imperative to remove all faded (dry) inflorescences, otherwise in winter, under the weight of snow, hydrangea bushes can simply break. It also does not interfere with sanitary and thinning pruning.

When is the best time to prune - in autumn or spring

It is believed that paniculate and tree-like hydrangeas can be pruned both in autumn and spring, or pruned in several stages (cut off some in the fall, and already complete what was started in the spring). But the large-leaved variety, as a rule, they try to cut it only in the spring. Pruning of young bushes 2-3 years old (which still have thin stems) is most often left also in the spring.

Features of autumn pruning plants depending on the type

Let us consider separately how tree-like, paniculate and large-leaved varieties are pruned, since each of them has its own characteristics.

Panicle pruning

As a rule, in autumn, paniculate hydrangea cut off only faded inflorescences, and in the spring they carry out a complete (final) pruning, that is, pruning is carried out in 2 stages.

However, the flowering of paniculate, like a tree-like hydrangea, occurs on the shoots of the current year, which means that it is not at all scary to make a mistake when pruning. That's why in autumn, you can carry out a complete pruning of tree hydrangeas, but leaving some margin. For example, when pruning for flowering, 3-4 pairs of strong buds should be left.

Tree pruning

Note! Autumn pruning tree hydrangea performed similar to paniculate, but with some nuances (due to the structure of the flower). Naturally, you can do a full pruning in the fall, because. it also blooms on the current year's shoots.

Pruning large-leaved varieties

Large-leaved hydrangea blooms on last year's shoots, so it requires a completely different pruning. And if you make a standard pruning, you can simply deprive yourself of flowering next year.

So, in the fall, in a large-leaved variety, only faded two-year-old shoots are pruned, all other pruning procedures are transferred to spring.

Note! Many flower growers prefer not to touch the large-leaved hydrangea at all in the fall, and do everything in the spring.

But still in the fall you can cut the inflorescences. Moreover, it is recommended to cut the inflorescences to the first pair of buds at the end of the branch, that is, they (the buds) should never be touched. In addition, a stem of about 1.5-2 cm (long stump) should be left above them.

Hydrangea shelter for the winter

Many novice flower growers are interested in sheltering this perennial for the winter, namely: when and how to do it correctly.

Note! The site already has one that you can find.

Features of frost resistance of each type of hydrangea

Hydrangea paniculata is one of the most frost-resistant species, it can withstand frosts down to -30-35 C.

Slightly less resistant to frost is a tree-like variety, in which young shoots can freeze slightly during the cold season. But the plant tends to recover very quickly over the next season.

And the most unstable to cold weather is the large-leaved hydrangea. The fact is that this perennial blooms on the shoots of the previous year. And if flower buds freeze during the winter, then next year there will be no flowering.

Is it necessary to cover for the winter

Thus, not all varieties of hydrangeas need to be covered for the period of cold weather, or rather, only tree-like and paniculate ones, since they are highly frost-resistant. It will be enough just to lightly spud each of the bushes (for insurance).

But the large-leaved hydrangea is strongly recommended to be carefully covered for the winter, as it is a very thermophilic species. Therefore, if this shrub is not covered in the Middle lane (Moscow region) and cold northern regions, then it will definitely not bloom.

Features of sheltering hydrangeas depending on the region

In the Urals and Siberia, experienced flower growers manage to grow large-leaved hydrangea, many varieties of which are valued for their beautiful decorative foliage, as well as for beautiful flowers of different colors. In order to cover well this heat-loving variety in the northern regions for the winter, it should be planted separately from other plants so that its shelter does not interfere with the development and growth of other flowering perennials. Some gardeners sometimes even grow this type of plant in large tubs, which are removed to the greenhouse for the winter or in a greenhouse.

As for how to cover large-leaved hydrangeas in the middle lane (Moscow region), air-dry shelter is used here (however, it can be used in Siberia and the Urals), for example, of this plan:

• Perennial shoots are tied together, wrapped with lutrasil, and a frame is built around it from a grid, the size of which is 10-12 cm larger than the height of the shrub. Dry foliage is poured inside the frame to the very top. Then the resulting structure must be wrapped with any material that does not let moisture in. In this way, young seedlings of all types of hydrangeas should be covered for the winter.

Attention! The site already has a detailed article on sheltering hydrangeas for the winter, which you can read.

These wonderful shrubs actively grown in landscape design for decorating park areas. But more and more often they are found in the most ordinary summer cottages and in the gardens of private houses. However, flower growers need to remember that these perennials require special treatment in preparation for the cold period.

In contact with

In our climate, almost all perennial horticultural crops need insulation, which is usually done just before the frost. As for panicle hydrangea, opinions vary greatly. The fact is that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bits natural growth is regions with relatively low temperatures, and even with their sharp drops, combined with high humidity. For example, the Far East, Japan, China. Therefore, it is referred to the group of frost-resistant plants. Hence the disputes over the question - is it worth covering the hydrangea for the winter or can this procedure be neglected.

In nature, there are about 80 species of this flower. Categorization is rather complicated, but this is not the main thing - only a few representatives of the dicotyledonous class are cultivated on the territory of the Russian Federation. One of them is panicle hydrangea. Its inflorescences are white in color, which eventually acquires a pinkish tint, which is why paniculate hydrangea is often called pink.

Unlike other varieties, panicle hydrangea tolerates temperatures down to -35 ºС, but this is provided that it is reliably protected from the wind. In addition, the buds from which the buds then develop are formed on one-year-old sprouts that appear in the spring of the current year. Therefore, the peculiarity of the shelter is to protect, first of all, its root system from freezing.

Any plant, even securely sheltered for the winter, is unlikely to successfully endure the cold period if it is weakened by autumn and, moreover, is affected by some pest. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare hydrangea for winter ahead of time. As a rule, experienced gardeners start doing this from mid-summer, regardless of the climate in the region.

• Completely switch to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. Fertilizing based on nitrogen and its compounds should be discarded. The explanation is simple - they reduce the frost resistance of the plant and initiate the growth of young shoots. Neither panicle hydrangea, as you might guess, is not necessary on the eve of winter.
• With the onset of autumn, watering the flower must be stopped. This is necessary for the speedy lignification of all branches that will overwinter.
• At the same time, leaves are removed. When to do this, it is not difficult to determine if you understand the meaning of this agrotechnical event. Moisture “leaves” (evaporates) through the leaves of the plant, and if they are left for the winter, dehydration of the wood will occur.

It is advisable to get rid of greenery at the end of the rainy period. But this applies only to the branches of the lower rows, since this procedure speeds up the process of their lignification. Before frosts, all the rest are removed for the reason that it is on the leaves that garden pests often settle, which will safely (if the greens are left) overwinter along with the hydrangea. Naturally, if it is completely covered.

There are recommendations that the leaves from the tops of the shoots do not need to be touched, since they serve as a kind of protection for the places where flower buds subsequently form. In this case, the authors confuse plant varieties. Hydrangea paniculata differs in that the most developed (and therefore promising) buds are located in areas from the trunk to the center of the branches. It is from them that, at the end of winter, those shoots appear, on which buds subsequently bloom. Therefore, if the tops freeze, then this will in no way affect the flowering of hydrangeas next year. In addition, during spring pruning, in the process of crown formation, they are usually removed.

Ways to shelter for the winter

The decision on the advisability of holding this event is made by the owner of the site himself, based on the characteristics of the climate, as well as the level of ventilation of the territory. It makes no sense to explain that with high humidity and a strong side wind, even with slight frosts, the hydrangea can die during the winter. In addition, it is important that this flower is a bush or a tree. After all, the height of the last variety reaches 2.5 - 3 m, and in some specimens - 8, or even 10.

Hilling

The simplest technology known to all summer residents. Such foresight helps protect the trunk circle from freezing. What to use?

Experienced gardeners recommend hilling with a mixture of earth from the site and peat. Fertilizer not only insulates the soil, but also gives it good nourishment when warm days come. Part of the melt water, penetrating deep into the ground, supplies the root system with the necessary nutrients. In this case, the process of fertilizing in the spring is greatly simplified.

Recommendations for using fallen leaves, grass, haulm, straw, sawdust to cover the bottom of the hydrangea, although they are often found on separate sites, are hardly correct. There are several reasons for abandoning this method of hiding.

1. First, when wet, the vegetation begins to rot. As a result, mold and fungus, which will immediately spread to panicled hydrangea.
2. Secondly, it is in such a mass that small rodents like to settle for the winter.
3. Thirdly, on the same old leaves there are always various garden pests (or their larvae). That is why one of the most common tips for beginner summer residents is that all plant debris collected on the territory must be immediately disposed of through incineration.

If the pruning of hydrangeas on the eve of winter is low enough, and the total height of the bush is small, then it is advisable to pour an earthen lump with the expectation that it completely covers the stems rising above the ground.

Hilling + sheltering branches

This is the most common technique, since in most regions the temperature drops quite low in winter.

How to cover branches:

• If they are not particularly long, then it is enough to tie them, and insulate the resulting “cocoon” with a suitable material. The choice is large - old tree branches, spruce branches, roofing felt (covered with polyethylene film). Everything else will be provided by snow crust - this is the most reliable natural "blanket" for any plant in winter.
• With a significant length of the stems, the branches will have to be bent as close to the ground as possible. This makes hiding them much easier. The process is simple, the main thing is to securely fix them so that they cannot straighten up during the winter (for example, in strong winds).

First way. "Pin" the tops of the shoots with metal staples. They are easy to make from pieces of thick wire. The only thing to consider is that these fixation elements must have long “antennae”, otherwise they will not be firmly held by the ground and will pop out of it relatively easily.

The second way. Put a piece of board on the ground, into which (on the back) nails are driven. Here, to their protruding tips, the branches are tied up.

It remains only to securely cover the hydrangea on top. What is already noted.

It is more difficult with adult bushes, the branches of which are difficult to bend down due to their considerable thickness, and therefore poor compliance. In this case, it is advisable to make a complete shelter with some kind of insulating sheet. Experienced gardeners recommend focusing on lutrasil, spunbond or something similar. These materials are specially designed to protect plants from the "surprises" of the weather, including frost. Sold in several versions, so the best option is easy to choose.

With this method, the panicled hydrangea is completely “wrapped” in the canvas. To prevent the dome from falling apart from the wind and snow load, it is tied (with adhesive tape, rope), after which an additional (and it is desirable to do this!) Frame structure is installed. It can be built from metal arcs, mesh. The point is that then it is covered with a p / e film, and the resulting air gap (it is enough to organize it at 10 - 15 cm) between the polyethylene sheath and the inner protective layer provides more reliable insulation. For regions with frosty winters - the best option for sheltering a plant.

Panicled hydrangea adapts quite well to growing conditions. Planted on the site, it gradually adapts to the characteristics of the local climate. This means that as it grows, the method of sheltering a plant can be simplified over time. But if we are talking about a young hydrangea, then it is better to cover it according to the “full program”. This ensures that she will endure all the "surprises" of the weather safely.

Hydrangea is good even in autumn. Some species retain inflorescences until late autumn. And how beautiful are the hydrangea bushes with large burgundy leaves! Unfortunately, not all species are winter-hardy and can overwinter in open ground without reliable insulation.

THE MOST POPULAR HYDROANGIA TYPES

treelike And paniculate hydrangea grow in many areas. They overwinter in open ground without much loss. Huge armfuls of inflorescences of tree-like hydrangeas remain on the bushes until the very end of autumn. True, they are no longer as white or light cream as before. Their color has a greenish tinge. Inflorescences fluff up and increase in size by autumn. It is a pity to cut them off, although it is time to prepare the bushes for the winter.

In paniculate hydrangeas, white, cream or pinkish inflorescences are conical in shape. In autumn, white inflorescences turn pink (less often they can remain white-cream). Some panicled hydrangeas have more pink hue in inflorescences than others. Sometimes rusty nails are specially buried in the ground under paniculate hydrangea bushes so that the inflorescences become intense pink. In autumn, the heavy, wide-pyramidal inflorescences of the Vanilla Freize paniculate hydrangea turn pink-red. For the winter, it is better to sprinkle the ground under treelike and paniculate hydrangeas with peat, to which loose garden soil is added. These species are lovers of acidic and slightly acidic soils. For the winter they can not be covered. Except where the snow is blown by the wind. Then the branches are bent and covered with spruce branches.

Large-leaved hydrangeas, or garden, have huge flat or spherical inflorescences. White, crimson, pink, blue and even blue. This view is trickier. In the Moscow region, it is safer to grow them in pots, which are transferred to cool rooms in winter. Large-leaved hydrangeas can also winter in open ground if they are well insulated. So that the bushes do not suffer from decay. Large-leaved hydrangeas also grow on slightly alkaline soils, so you can add ordinary garden soil to them.

There are other, not so popular types. I have winter without any shelter petiolate And oakleaf hydrangea. True, they grow in those places where a lot of snow accumulates in winter, but melt water does not stagnate. Fast-growing creepers of petiolate hydrangea are suitable for decorating arbors, they can climb buildings and climb tall trees. If there is no support nearby, then the shoots spread along the ground. In the shade, the petiolate hydrangea blooms worse than in the sun or in partial shade. The oak-leaved hydrangea is decorated with both inflorescences and beautiful large "rough" leaves, resembling oak ones in shape. In autumn they turn purple. White inflorescences, which turn intensely pink at the end of summer, do not last long in autumn. You have to cut them off. At the end of autumn, I tie the branches so that they do not break off under a heavy snowdrift. These hydrangeas can be sprinkled with loam mixed with peat and humus, or ordinary garden soil. With age, the winter hardiness of these types of hydrangeas increases markedly.

WHEN TO PLANT?

I try not to plant hydrangea seedlings in the fall. The only exception is a transplant, when it is inevitable. It is better to leave young plants in the school. Newly acquired seedlings can be moved to a cool place in the house and planted in a permanent place in the spring. In the southern regions they are planted in the fall. Many roots are located at the very surface of the soil, so the bush is not buried when planting.

WHEN TO CUT HYDROANGIAS?

Without pruning, the bushes of treelike and paniculate hydrangeas “swing out” and bloom worse over time, their inflorescences become smaller. In autumn, I cut off only the upper part of the shoots, remove all inflorescences. I do the main pruning in the spring, during the swelling of the kidneys. Then you can see which parts of the shoots are frozen and which are alive. I start by thinning out the bush, removing broken, old shoots lying on the ground and thickening the crown. I leave no more than 12 strong shoots, which I greatly shorten (up to 2/3 of the height). In these species, inflorescences appear on the shoots of the current year, which justifies a bold pruning. A completely different approach to large-leaved hydrangeas. This species blooms on last year's shoots. They are protected and cut out only by the oldest branches and thickening shoots. It is important not to remove the upper buds. I form oak-leaved hydrangea and petiole by removing broken, dried and thickening shoots. I do this in the spring, when the state of the bushes is clearly visible.

WINTERING LARGE-LEAVED HYDENSIAS

Large-leaved hydrangeas that remain on the site for the winter must be thoroughly insulated. Lapnik and (or) dense non-woven material. The branches are pre-stretched with ropes. Better yet, pin the bushes to the ground. Those large-leaved hydrangeas that winter in the ground bloom in the second half of summer. Large-leaved hydrangeas growing in flower pots bloom much earlier.

I grow such a hydrangea, brought from Svetlogorsk (Kaliningrad region), in a flower pot. For the summer I dig it into the ground, for the winter I take it to a semi-dark basement. Even near Kaliningrad, where the climate is milder, these hydrangeas freeze out in some winters. Until February, a pot with a bush prepared for wintering stands in the basement at an air temperature of plus 5 - 6 ° C. I reduce watering, but do not allow the soil to dry out. In February, I put the hydrangea on the windowsill. I am waiting for the awakening of the kidneys and the growth of basal shoots. Already in April - May, all inflorescences bloom. You can postpone flowering to a later date. To do this, leave pots with large-leaved hydrangeas in the basement (or other cool, dark room) until May. Such bushes will bloom only by mid-summer.

The color of the inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangeas varies depending on the acidity of the soil. In acidic soil, pink flowers turn blue; in neutral or slightly alkaline soil, they turn pink. In the Kaliningrad region, there are many bushes of large-leaved hydrangeas, in which some of the inflorescences are blue in color, and some are pink. Previously, the soil was acidified with alum. Now there are special fertilizers for hydrangeas that affect color. The woman from whom I bought a seedling of my hydrangea said that for the blue color she acidifies the soil with water in which peat is soaked for several days. Pink inflorescences of large-leaved hydrangea are obtained when the bush grows on the sand.

There is an opinion that hydrangea is a capricious plant that requires a thorough shelter for the winter to preserve flower buds. This is only partly true, because applies only to the large-leaved variety. Other species (tree-like and paniculate) winter well without shelter in central Russia. If you don’t know what type the hydrangea growing on your site belongs to, why it doesn’t bloom or blooms insufficiently, how to prepare it for winter, then in this article you may find answers.

Optimal planting site and soil acidification

All types of hydrangea grow remarkably and bloom in lightly shaded areas protected from drafts. The soil must be acidified. To do this, red high-moor peat or spruce (pine) litter must be mixed with leaf humus. When planting seedlings, fill the planting hole with such a mixture. If the bushes are already growing, then the top layer of soil must be replaced with the specified mixture or the trunk circle should be mulched with it. Throughout the season, hydrangeas require abundant, regular watering.

Video lesson on autumn pruning of tree and paniculate hydrangeas

In spring, in dry weather, the entire frozen part must be cut to living tissue. At the same time, all thin, crossing and thickening shoots should be removed. After a particularly harsh winter, pruning a tree hydrangea may turn out to be too short, this is even beneficial to the plant, because. rejuvenation always contributes to more lush flowering bushes.

How to winterize hydrangeas

Preparation of tree hydrangea for wintering

The tree-like hydrangea is distinguished by corymbose inflorescences of white color, which eventually acquire a greenish tint.

Tree hydrangeas are characterized by corymbose white inflorescences, which eventually acquire a greenish tint. The old varieties of this variety are absolutely non-capricious; they do not need shelter for the winter. But recently bred large-flowered varieties, especially those delivered from nurseries in warm regions, require little hilling. They bloom on the shoots of the current year. If during the period of frost the freezing of the upper part of the shoots occurs, then this will practically not affect flowering.

In the literature, there are tips that it is not necessary to cut the faded inflorescences for the winter, that it is better to do it in the spring, so the underlying buds are better preserved. This is true, but under the weight of snow accumulating on the inflorescences, the shoots can break. Therefore, in late autumn it is more reasonable to remove faded inflorescences and non-lignified parts of shoots that definitely will not overwinter. Fallen leaves must be collected and burned.

Taking care of panicle hydrangea

Paniculata hydrangea is distinguished by pyramidal inflorescences and brown-red shoots.

Hydrangea paniculata is taller than its tree relative. Its leaves are darker, and young shoots have a burgundy-brown hue. Its inflorescences are pyramidal, dense. At first they are greenish, then white, and by the end of the season they become dirty pink. It also blooms on the shoots of the current year. Winters without shelter. To fully guarantee the safety of the root system, it is advisable to spud the bushes with garden soil. Pruning it is carried out by analogy with the tree.

How to cover a large-leaved hydrangea

Large-leaved hydrangea, requiring reliable shelter for ziu

The second name of large-leaved hydrangea is macrophylla. Here is this sissy and capricious. Without reliable shelter for the winter, pink or blue inflorescences cannot be seen. It blooms on the shoots of last year. During flowering, it is impossible to take your eyes off, it is so good, so flower growers make every effort to preserve flower buds.

Ways to shelter hydrangeas for the winter

First cover option

Shoots of large-leaved hydrangea are bent to the ground, fixed, covered with spruce branches and film

Before shelter, it is desirable to remove thin and crossing shoots, collect all remaining on the plant and fallen leaves. The bush must be divided, taking into account the direction of growth of the shoots, tied in parts, bent to the ground and secured. Shoots are usually flexible, breakage does not occur. Cover with lutrasil, agrospan or any other non-woven material. Sprinkle a decent layer of dry leaves from healthy trees on top, put a film or something to prevent wetting (a bag of sugar, for example). And at the end throw a piece of the old carpet. You may get the impression that under such shelter the bushes will swell, nothing like that.

Second cover option

Reliable shelter bush large-leaved hydrangea

Several buckets of garden soil should be poured into the base of the prepared bush (without leaves and inflorescences) and the root zone. Place low wooden boxes around the plant. Lay hydrangea shoots on them and secure them using the slots of the stands. Cover with several layers of agrospan or similar material, and cover with foil on top.

It is impossible to hurry with disclosure, otherwise all the efforts made will be in vain. Large-leaved hydrangeas can be severely damaged by return frosts. It is difficult to specify the exact opening time, it depends on the growing region, for example, in the Moscow region it falls on the beginning of May. It happens that after removing the shelter, mold is noticeable on the shoots, this is not a problem. It is simply washed off with water or a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Shelter for young hydrangeas of any kind

Young hydrangea covered with dry leaves. Subsequently, this design must be covered with a film

The first wintering of a young hydrangea of ​​any kind in a new place is the most difficult period. Cover is a must. In autumn, the seedling should be cut, leaving about 8 cm. Remove all leaves. Cover the bush with dry litter or peat to its full height, lay a few spruce branches, and cover with a film on top, fixing it with stones. You can do otherwise: put a fence around the plant, for example, a metal mesh. Fill all the resulting space with dry leaves, stretch the film on top.

Blooming hydrangeas are beautiful. To contemplate this splendor, you need to know their appearance and properly organize wintering.