RGB LEDs: Addressable LED strip. Do-it-yourself installation of programmable diode strips LED aging compensation

I took the waterproof version, which is indicated by the seller as "White 4m 60 IP67", this is a tape in silicone. Came on a reel, in a foil bag:

There are 60 silicone-filled lights per meter:

On the reverse side of the double-sided adhesive tape for attaching to the surface:

Let's look at a separate section of the tape:

We see: cut lines on the contacts, the actual contacts on both sides: DIN - input data, DO - output data, + 5V - power plus, GND - power minus, C1 - ceramic capacitor, well, actually the LED itself is soldered with 4 contacts. The direction of data transfer is indicated by a black triangle.

The WS2812B LEDs themselves are an assembly of a microcircuit and 3 LEDs (red, blue and green), thanks to a special protocol, the microcircuit receives data only for its assembly, the rest of the data is transmitted further along the chain. Thanks to this, each individual assembly can be passed information about the brightness of its each LED (red, blue and green) and get the desired color.

Details about the properties of a separate assembly are described. I will only note that 1024 microcircuits can be connected in series as much as possible, the information in which can be updated 30 times per second.

A good library for these assemblies has been developed for arduino. Which allows you to paint each assembly in its own color. Adafruit also has a library for screens from these assemblies and good use cases.

We have already seen on this site the wonderful results of creativity using the WS2812B:,.

I wanted to make a controlled ribbon in the window using this ribbon. We will glue the tape into the window opening, so 2 meters of tape will be required. By assembling a prototype of a simple garland and downloading the example that comes with the Adafruit_NeoPixel: strandtest library, I made sure that everything basically works. In fact, the library specifies one pin of the controller, which is connected to the Din input of the first assembly.
Scheme:

There were no problems with a typical sketch and a typical connection.

But after all, we need to manage the ruler remotely ... This is where the rake begins.

First of all, I decided to connect an IR receiver and control it from the remote control. I assembled the circuit, blinked the LED and connected the tape ... There was no reaction ... More precisely, when I connected the console, I received random button codes by pressing 10 times on one button and seeing only different codes, I thought. The first thought was a hindrance to nutrition, because apart from turning on the tape, nothing changed. I read about the recommendation to solder an electrolyte with a voltage of 6.3 Volts and a capacity of at least 1000 uF to the input of the tape, of course I did it right away, the result is zero ... I started digging the code of the Adafruit_NeoPixel library and found that when transferring data to LEDs, the library completely blocks interrupts. Disabling the blocking led to the fact that the tape behaved very strangely, interruptions occurred on any garbage that got into the input of the receiver ...

Frustrated by the failure with such a simple scheme, I began to think about a second controller responsible for receiving IR signals and controlling the main one ... If someone wants to make an IR-controlled tape on the WS2812B, then this is the only reasonable option. Of course, there are also exotic ones, for example, to enter time intervals when the garland does not change its state and receive IR signals in them - but this is already a completely horned method ...

As a result, it was decided to use bluetooth and control the garland from the phone, since I had a few things of the HC-06 modules idle. To indicate the current mode of operation of the garland, I decided to use the display on the TM1637, an overview of which is present. Final scheme:

The main problem that arose with the code is that when the state changes, delay () is used, which does not make it possible to intervene in the process except for interrupts, but ... interrupts are disabled for us ... It was decided to rewrite the effects using the storage of information about the current state of the garland and change it by timing. To do this, the cycles are transformed into transitions to the next state, and signs of changing modes are added. I had to think about whether to lay out the crooked experimental code, but the desire to make it easier for someone overcame his creative process - (there is absolutely experimental code, use at your own peril and risk).

Now about the management, of course, writing your own beautiful application is a tempting idea, but there was no time for this and I used the application for android -, set the necessary codes in the button mode and everything was fine. It is possible to sign the sent code and designation for each button. I didn't need more. All effects numbered turned out to be 10 different, 10 buttons are used for effects, and 1 button to turn on the sequential change of effects.

Bluetooth module configured using the program, very convenient, you can change the name of the device when searching and the speed:

The HC-06 should be connected to a computer using a standard USB-TTL converter.

Connecting to a laboratory power supply, I found out that my tape (2 meters) consumes at the peak when everything is on 2.1 A at a voltage of 5V. I put a 3A power supply, bought offline:

a week of continuous work, no problems revealed.

And of course, I wanted the finished device not to look like a tangle of wires in a shoebox. Moreover, I had cases with a glass lid of the right size:

We make a printed circuit board in the Sprint Layout program, I still left the IR receiver, since it is possible to use the box in a different way, or somehow it will be possible to solve the problem with it:

I described the manufacturing process by the LUT method earlier in.
This is what the board looked like with toner applied:

Etching:

Assembling the device:

To connect the garland, I used the headphone jack, which also supplies power to the device. I used a PVS 2x0.5 wire to connect the power supply to the tape, and to connect the device to the tape, I used a telephone cable of 4 wires, I made the ground from 2 wires.
Final device:

And here are its effects:

Of course, it is best to watch the garland on the video:

Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the bicycle in early spring, because it is cold to cook it in winter =). One of the key conditions in the evening and at night for a cyclist is to be visible to other low-flying road users. Companies from China contribute to this in every way, give out various lights, feet, backpacks and other goods to illuminate and mark the bike on the road. The manufacturer positions this device not only as an additional light source, but also as a thing to create a “Wow effect”.

18.* - The product is provided by the store ...

✔ FEATURES

Number of LEDs: 128
Templates in memory: 18
Independent programming of new pictures: Yes
Switch: manual push button switch + intelligent induction
Lamps: RGB 5050 LED lamp
LED service life: 100000 hours
Battery: 18650 rechargeable battery (included)
Battery life: up to 15 hours
Waterproof level:IPX6
Product length: 530 x 90 x 50mm
The weight: 432g
Warranty: 1 year
Package included:
1 x DIY Programmable Cartoon Style IPX6 Colorful 128-LED Bike Cycling Wheel Light,1 x 18650 Battery, 1 x Battery Charger, 1 x USB Cable, 1 x Bag of Cable Tie, 1 x User Manual

✔ PACKAGING AND COMPLETE SET

The thing is not fragile, but the store additionally packed the box in thick cardboard.

Although the sides are slightly damaged. Nothing is said on the packaging either about the model or the manufacturer - the original "noname".

Inside the cardboard box, in separate niches in foam, there are all the details of the “light wheel”.

General equipment, sorry, the focus floated away.

The packer could be seen drinking tea, or put a cup on the instructions =). I recommend viewing the instructions once to understand how to attach, switch and record drawings.

Thanks for the disk with the software and various pictures, but the link to the file storage is more relevant.

To charge the Li-Ion battery, the kit comes with a universal charger with a European plug. Outputs 3.7V and 450mA.

To connect the device to the USB port of a PC and upload images, there is such a cable in the kit.

In addition, various ties for fastening and a magnet.

Box with a rechargeable battery, double-sided adhesive tape is glued to the sleeve at the point of attachment.

Button to turn the device on or off.

Inside is a rechargeable 18650 battery with a capacity of 2200mAh.

Rubber o-rings on the thread are present.

The device itself is a strip with LEDs, with a small process for connecting power or programming coming from the plastic part in the middle.

Sealing rubber ring for moisture protection.

The LEDs are placed on a substrate resembling textolite, the entire surface is filled with transparent varnish from above.

Control buttons, mode switching and reset.

The total power is 0.6 watts.

At one end of the LED strip, in a white square, is a magnetic field sensor (Hall sensor). Complete with a magnet from the kit, it is necessary to correct the positioning of the image.

The length of the strip is 52 centimeters, the width is 2 centimeters. Weight - 432 grams. Fits 26" wheels and up.

The first inclusion - blocks of light-emitting diodes of various color light up randomly.

✔ INSTALLATION ON THE BIKE

I decided to fix it on the front wheel - because the installation is easier.

You can use thick white ties from the kit, but they are too thick. I fastened with simple black ones from the kit.

With the help of two ties and double-sided tape, we attach the block with the battery to the sleeve.

The magnet is also fastened with ties to the plug. I recommend loosening the screw before installation, so that later you can adjust the gap between the LED strip and the magnet - it should be around 1-1.5 cm.

Install software and drivers from CD. On my Win10 x64, there were no problems connecting or running the software.
The management program is very simple and intuitive without Russification.
We connect the LED strip to the PC and make sure that icon 1 turns green, and the inscription No devices found is gone.
2 - Open the jpg image.
3 - Increase / decrease the zoom.
4 - We look at how this image will be “on the wheel” and, if necessary, using lines of various thicknesses (5) and colors (6), we finish or correct the drawing.
7- Original uploaded image.
8 - Clear the memory in the LED strip - if necessary.
9 - Load the image into the memory of the LED strip. Up to 18 different images can be stored in memory.

At the time of loading, the LED strip glows green

Even not in complete darkness, the picture is visible, though not so bright and clear. Normally, the picture starts to be displayed at a speed of more than 12-15 km / h.

If the speed is not enough, then only a fragment is displayed.

Unfortunately, in the video review, the camera could not catch the picture, the eyes, as well as the camera, are normally visible. Loaded into the LED strip, a few test images from the CD. Images can switch automatically every 5 seconds, or you can choose which image to display while driving.
If there is no movement, then after 15-20 seconds the LED strip turns off, when moving it turns on automatically.
This is how it looks in the dark.

✔ VIDEO REVIEW

I can’t attribute this device to essential devices, but if you want variety, a wow effect, then you should consider buying it. The advantages include ease of installation and very simple software. By cons, I’ll take the mount on the screeds, ala collective farm tuning, it would be better to come up with a normal mount to the knitting needles.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

I plan to buy +49 Add to favorites Liked the review +59 +104

In this article, we will talk about colored LEDs, the difference between a simple RGB LED and an addressable one, we will supplement it with information about areas of application, how they work, how they are controlled with schematic pictures of LED connections.

1. Introduction to LEDs

LEDs are an electronic component capable of emitting light. Today they are widely used in various electronic equipment: flashlights, computers, household appliances, cars, telephones, etc. Many microcontroller projects use LEDs in one way or another.

They have two main purposes.:

Demonstration of equipment operation or notification of any event;
use for decorative purposes (illumination and visualization).

Inside, the LED consists of red (red), green (green) and blue (blue) crystals assembled in one package. Hence the name - RGB (Fig. 1).

2. Using microcontrollers

With it, you can get many different shades of light. The RGB LED is controlled by a microcontroller (MK), for example, Arduino (Fig. 2).

Of course, you can get by with a simple 5 volt power supply, 100-200 ohm resistors to limit the current and three switches, but then you will have to manually control the glow and color. In this case, it will not be possible to achieve the desired shade of light (Fig. 3-4).

The problem appears when you need to connect a hundred colored LEDs to the microcontroller. The controller has a limited number of pins, and each LED needs four pins, three of which are responsible for color, and the fourth pin is common: depending on the type of LED, it can be anode or cathode.

3. Controller for RGB control

To unload the outputs of the MK, special controllers WS2801 (5 volts) or WS2812B (12 volts) are used (Fig. 5).

With the use of a separate controller, there is no need to occupy several MK outputs, it can be limited to only one signal output. The MK sends a signal to the "Data" input of the WS2801 LED control controller.

This signal contains 24-bit color brightness information (3 channels of 8 bits for each color), as well as information for the internal shift register. It is the shift register that allows you to determine which LED information is addressed to. Thus, it is possible to connect several LEDs in series, while still using one output of the microcontroller (Fig. 6).

4. Addressable LED

This is an RGB LED, only with an integrated WS2801 controller directly on the chip. The housing of the LED is made as an SMD component for surface mounting. This approach allows you to place the LEDs as close as possible to each other, making the glow more detailed (Fig. 7).

In online stores, you can find addressable LED strips, when up to 144 pieces fit in one meter (Fig. 8).

It is worth considering that one LED consumes only 60-70 mA at full brightness, when connecting a tape, for example, to 90 LEDs, you will need a powerful power supply with a current of at least 5 amperes. In no case do not power the LED strip through the controller, otherwise it will overheat and burn out from the load. Use external power supplies (fig.9).

5. Lack of addressable LEDs

The addressable LED strip cannot work at too low temperatures: at -15, the controller starts to fail, in more severe frost there is a high risk of its failure.

The second drawback is that if one LED fails, all the rest will refuse to work along the chain: the internal shift register will not be able to transfer information further.

6. Application of addressable LED strips

Addressable LED strips can be used for decorative lighting of cars, aquariums, photo frames and paintings, in interior design, as Christmas decorations, etc.

It turns out an interesting solution if the LED strip is used as an Ambilight backlight for a computer monitor (Fig. 10-11).

If you will be using Arduino-based microcontrollers, you will need the FastLed library to simplify working with the LED strip ().

Do you want to give your office an attractive and finished look by decorating it with programmable LED strips? See how we achieved this by creating a collection of work surfaces that decorate our entire workspace at night with a beautiful interweaving of lines of light.

Materials and tools

Programmable LED strip, Arduino controller and appropriate power supply;

Pliers for cutting LED strips;

A bar of poplar or harder wood, twice as long as the length of the LED strip;

Table cutting machine and grooving tool, or milling machine;

Sandpaper;

Joiner's glue;

Double-sided adhesive tape or special mastic for gluing LED strips to wood.

Mounting

First of all, get an LED strip. We bought two five-meter coils for our windows. When buying in coils, you not only pay less, but also have the opportunity to cut it exactly to the required size. For window dressing, we used five meters of LPD8806 tape.

LPD8806 is an analog type LED strip with built-in controllers for each pair of LEDs. This means that you can load the software library into your Arduino controller, and set individual settings for each LED strip.

The Adafruit website has a good programming tutorial and a list of all the hardware you need.

Once your program is up and running, you can use the Arduino to create all sorts of lighting effects.

First, you must carefully measure your windows and cut your LED strips to the desired length. At the same time, at each end, it is necessary to leave about two centimeters of space for connecting wires, i.e. the strips must be cut into pieces of a slightly shorter length than the dimensions of the windows.

Solder the ends of the strips of tape to the connectors so that they can be tightly connected. Make sure each strip has enough wire to fit around the perimeter of the window unhindered.

Now you will need a desktop cutting machine, with which it will be easier for you to cut the panels (wooden blocks with grooves selected in them for laying LED strips) to the desired dimensions.

For sampling grooves, there is a special tool with two sawtooth blades, with which you can cut grooves of any width. The blades are designed in such a way that they do not cling to each other with teeth, even if they are placed closely.

You can watch a video on YouTube that describes this operation in detail:

LED strips must be positioned with spacers so that the light from them falls in the right direction. In our case, we wanted the light to come in, reflecting and scattering off the silvery curtains and giving the space some mystique.

The spacers were made from scrap wood and stacked several in each panel until the desired length was reached. It was more practical than making them from industrial wood of the required length.

We chose an angle of inclination of about 22 degrees.

You can make spacers from any other material, such as plywood or fiberboard, we just had some extra wood and a cutting machine.

To get a shiny and professional looking result, and to make sure all the gaskets fit well into the grooves, we did a BIG sanding.

To do this, we used a wooden block of the appropriate size, covered with sandpaper and sanded both the panels and the gaskets.

After grinding, it is necessary to mount individual pieces and cut off the protruding parts of the gaskets with a hacksaw. When installing the gaskets, we used a special mastic and fixed them with paper clips while it was drying.

After the mastic has dried, we proceed to painting the finished panels. This can be done with a paint sprayer, and for small sizes, use any high-quality paint. Try to paint at least two coats in a color that matches your interior.