Autonomous water supply in the country with their own hands. Summer water supply in the country

In a situation where the summer cottage serves as a place of rest, it is impossible to do without organizing a reliable source of water supply. If it is planned to grow crops in the country, regular water supply should be taken care of first.

The well can feed the water supply in the country

Based on specific conditions, the source of water can be called:

• well or well - require a submersible or other pump;
• water supply network - you need to cut the pipe of the irrigation and water supply system of the house into the central water supply;
• natural or artificial open water - requires a pump and filter according to the situation;
• autonomous capacity as a drive for a working, but not in a constant mode, water supply.

The volume of the tank is sufficient, but an additional pump is required

Possible options for arranging water supply

As a source of water on the site, it is possible to use a central water supply system or a pump. An uninterrupted supply of liquid in this case will be provided by storage tank or hydraulic accumulator. In a situation with a tank, a moisture reserve is stored equal to the volume of the container, which can be of any size. It is located at a height, due to which a slight pressure is created in the water supply.

Using a hydraulic accumulator is more convenient because it maintains a stable high pressure in the water supply. By adding a pressure switch and a suitable pump to the accumulator, you can get an automatic pumping station. Hydraulic accumulator - a container in the form of a cylinder, divided into two volumes by a rubber membrane. In one half there is air under a pressure of about 2 atmospheres, in the other part water is supplied. The hydraulic accumulator has a limited volume, and this is a serious drawback.

When the tap is opened, water leaves the accumulator, which reduces the pressure in the system, the value of which is controlled by the relay. When the lower threshold is reached, the pump automatically starts, which pumps water until the upper pressure level is reached.

Hydraulic accumulators come in different sizes

Types of water pipes

The market offers a wide range of pipes, mounting elements and valves for self-organization of the water supply system on the site. Its construction is a responsible event, the success of which is determined by the optimality of the selected elements.

One of the important tasks is the selection of suitable water pipes. Worthy alternative plastic pipes protrude from steel plumbing. Plastic is not subject to corrosion, works well at low temperatures, and retains its functions for a long time. There are several types of plastic pipes, so you can choose suitable option based on the specific situation.

Pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are distinguished by a low price. They connect with cold welding. As a result of welding, the connection can withstand pressure up to 15 atmospheres, and the water supply system has been serving for more than 50 years. The temperature regime of its operation is from -15 ºС to +45 ºС (maximum +65 ºС). Susceptibility to ultraviolet radiation medium, in the cold the pipeline becomes brittle.

PVC pipes are suitable for plumbing

Advantages of PVC pipes:

• ease of installation;
• do not support combustion;
• smooth surface;
• resistance to oxidation;
• possibility of bending.

Among the negative qualities of PVC plumbing, there is a loss of strength due to scratches. Polyvinyl chloride pipes do not allow threaded connections. It is undesirable to use them for an open plumbing system. Plumbing should be placed in a trench or sewer.

Polypropylene pipes (PPR) are often used for plumbing in the country. Note that PPR pipes for cold water are marked with a blue stripe, for hot - red. The elements of the water supply system are connected by means of special soldering irons that heat up the plastic at the ends of the pipes to be welded, which are quickly fastened and solidified upon contact.

Polypropylene pipes in summer plumbing

Polypropylene pipes do not bend, and additional corners and fittings are used when collecting water pipes. The result is a high reliability of the system, but with a large number of fittings, the cost of the entire plumbing increases.

LDPE pipes

Pipes made of low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE) are connected without glue and additional devices. Threaded HDPE plumbing fittings are easily twisted by hand. Other advantages of such products include:

• operation in the mode up to -60 ºС is possible;
• resistance to chemical attack, decay;
• assembly by welding or using threaded fittings is possible;
• service over 50 years;
• use for summer and winter plumbing;
• smooth inner surface, which eliminates pressure losses in the water supply and deposits on the walls;
• when water freezes in pipes, they increase their size, and when thawed, they return to their original state without destruction.

An insignificant disadvantage of such pipes for country water supply- impossibility of operation at high temperature of liquid. A more tangible inconvenience is that it is impossible to step on such a water supply system, unlike metal structures.

HDPE pipe as a line for drip irrigation

We have already noted that HDPE pipes can be welded or joined using threaded fittings. Note that the threaded connection can withstand water pressure up to 4 atmospheres, which is more than enough in summer cottage conditions.

When selecting HDPE pipes, you should purchase options with blue stripes (for transferring cold water). Version with lines yellow color cannot be used in the garden, as they are designed for gas environments and contain toxic additives.

Based on the working pressure, HDPE pipes are divided into several categories:

• light - hold up to 2.5 atmospheres;
• medium-light - up to 4 atmospheres;
• medium - up to 8 atmospheres.

Street water supply at the site is assembled from light and medium-light pipes (denoted C and SL, respectively) with a diameter of 32 to 50 mm. You need to decide what density of pipes you need, it comes in three options: 63, 80, 100 (the numbers indicate the density). The greater the density, the greater the cost of products.

Sometimes, despite the higher price, a high-density option should be chosen for a summer residence: the walls of such pipes are thinner, which ultimately reduces the weight of the structure. This can be a decisive factor when water is extracted from a well or well. The light weight makes it easy to fix the pipes.

Assembling the plumbing system

Before you start installing the plumbing in the country with your own hands, it is important to determine which side of the garden the wiring will go to and draw a diagram of the location of the plastic pipeline. Water must be provided for country house, as well as to the key places of the site, where regular watering is provided. A plan on a scale will allow you to determine the location of the water points, the length irrigation system and number of fittings.

Several points of water intake should be provided so as not to carry heavy hoses and ensure simultaneous watering in different places. It is necessary to provide a crane at the entrance to the house and in front of the main branch.

A drain cock is also required at the lowest point of the system. It will allow you to remove water from pipes in winter, to prevent it from freezing. If the plumbing is installed from HDPE, a drain valve is not required. It should be taken into account that the number of possible cycles of freezing and thawing water in the system is not infinite, and even a polyethylene pipe may eventually collapse.

The irrigation scheme will help calculate the amount of materials

The procedure for preparing for the collection of the plumbing system is as follows:

• drawing up a layout of pipes;
• calculation of the length of the system and the number of fittings;
• decision on the operating mode: winter or summer;
• preparation of ditches;
• purchase of irrigation system components from the selected material.

Winter and summer mode the use of water pipes differ in the depth of laying polyethylene pipes. In the event that the cottage is visited all year round, it is advisable to choose an insulated water supply or lay a standard one, below the freezing zone. When installing watering pipes in the country, it is more profitable to use the summer type of water supply. If you have a greenhouse, you can not do without a winter styling option. The insulated pipeline that goes to the greenhouse should be laid in deep ditches or pipe heating should be provided.

The issue of conducting water with our own hands to the house in the country is considered by us in a special article. Experts recommend using welded polypropylene pipes for this purpose, which are resistant to temperature fluctuations and depressurization. The place of their laying is chosen taking into account the location of the rooms and ease of installation. Filters are required. The expansion tank will serve as a good addition.

Diagram of a water supply system with drip irrigation

The type of filters for a garden house is selected based on the composition of the water being taken. When there is a lot of iron in it, a system of two filters is used. One of them is ion-exchange, removing iron. The other is carbon, for proper mechanical cleaning. Before using water for domestic purposes, it is important to take a sample for analysis. If the results are unsatisfactory, they put an additional filter and be sure to boil the water before use.

Autonomous water supply at their summer cottage with their own hands

An irrigation system with an automatic pump cannot work without electricity. The supply of electricity to rural areas can be intermittent, so you should think about a reserve stock so as not to be left without water in the absence of electricity. A tank or other container can be installed in an attic or a special area and water can be pumped into it from a well or reservoir.

Rainwater can also be stored in the tank, but in this case, a filtration system should be provided. First, the water must undergo a rough cleaning, and then several stages of fine purification. A coarse filter and a non-return valve should also be installed at the inlet of the suction pipe coming from the pump. The filter will prevent damage to equipment sensitive to dirty water. The valve will insure against the reverse discharge of water after the pump is turned off.

An autonomous tank in the country contributes to high-quality watering of plants. In the warm season, its contents warm up quickly. Plants that are watered warm water, grow faster and give a rich harvest. If it is necessary to create drip irrigation, a single line should be assembled. Tees should be placed on the central pipe and drip irrigation tapes should be connected.

Many owners of country houses start building a country house only after they have brought water to the site. Even during the construction of a frame country house, in which it seems that water is not needed anywhere, there will always be a place for concrete and mortars for "gravy", "grease", foundation construction work, which means water will also be required. In addition, water, as the basis of life, will always be found when using our 6 acres of intended purpose. Watering the garden and vegetable garden, washing the car, the paving slabs of which are paved in the yard, and of course my own washing. So the supply of water to the summer cottage is a paramount issue - that is why in this article we will try to consider the maximum number of issues related to the water supply of the summer cottage and the plot.

If a central water supply system passes near the site, the solution of the problem is not always significantly simplified. Soviet water pipelines are dilapidated and almost completely worn out (recently, when replacing an old water supply system, a comrade dug up a cast-iron inlet pipe with the stamp of 57 - the cast iron literally crumbled into pieces in his hands). And the new plumbing modern Russia they are laid extremely rarely, it is very expensive, and in order to achieve this, one has to apply almost directly to the President (everyone probably remembers the story of the woman who turned to him for help in this matter).

Therefore, in order not to depend on someone's goodwill and use water as much as necessary, the summer resident has only two options: a well or wells, although, by the way, many experienced summer residents combine both options - even more substantial savings are obtained.

From the list of solutions to the issue of country water supply, we excluded in advance the use natural reservoirs- you yourself know what ecology is, not only for the kitchen and for irrigation, it can be scary to use, and despite the fact that the Slavs have always tried to build dwellings near the water, not everyone has them next to the dachas anyway.

Criteria for choosing the type of country water supply and water supply

Here, as in the well-known proverb, you need to measure everything seven times, that is, calculate in advance how much water you will need for normal living at the dacha of the whole family, and do this even with a small margin.

The calculation should be made taking into account all points of water consumption and water intake, taking into account the amount of their constant use by all family members. The most water-consuming objects should also be taken into account - a sauna, a bathhouse, a swimming pool in the country, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site allotted for growing vegetables, orchard which in some regions is now difficult to grow without irrigation.

With each liter of water counted in water consumption, the proposed future source of water supply should also become more abundant.

When locating a water supply source, be sure to take into account the fact that every ten meters of the pipeline will reduce the pump head by 1 meter. This is necessary so that water can be delivered to the most remote corners of the site, garden.

With a small flow of water - for example, if you use the house only as a summer home and a place to relax, you can make a shaft well. It is easy to build, relatively inexpensive, and all the work on its device is easy to do with your own hands. It is fed with water at the expense of groundwater, the depth of which varies from 4 to 15 meters.

Device mine well the simplest: a cap above the ground, underground reinforced concrete rings or a frame made of wooden beams, usually 25 cm thick.

The shaft of such a country well should be deepened into the aquifer by 3, and even better by four meters. At the bottom of the shaft well, soybeans of sand, gravel, crushed stone, each of which should be 20-25 centimeters thick, are alternately poured, and later they will act as a natural filter to purify the incoming water. Many, in addition to the bottom flow of water, also make holes in the concrete rings so that it comes from the sides. After that, a submersible pump is installed at the bottom.

The amount of water that a shaft-type well can provide cannot, of course, be calculated in advance. Whether it will be possible to do this after its construction - for this, the initial volume of water that has entered it by gravity is calculated, after which it is pumped out with a pump and the time is measured after which it will be filled again to the previous mirror.

In principle, it is always enough for a normal water supply of a summer house, they also dry up extremely rarely, in my practice of a “shabashnik” this happened only a few times, and even then after pumping out the water and cleaning and disinfecting the well, the water began to flow again.

If the groundwater is deep.

If a suitable aquifer is located at a depth of more than 15 meters and deeper, then the option with a well is eliminated, in which case a well will have to be drilled. They are drilled "on sand" and "on limestone". Let's explain:

Drilling a well in sand is much faster, much cheaper, and so much easier that if you borrow a tool from someone, even an inexperienced person can handle this job.

To construct a well in the sand, only a pump, a filter mesh, and a steel casing with a diameter of 125-133 mm will be needed.

Drilling a well "on the sand" takes no more than two days. Such a well will provide you with a volume of water equal to a cube per hour. This is not much, but it is enough for most site owners.

Among the disadvantages of drilling a well “on sand”, it can be noted that the water from it is not very clean, and, therefore, the well will “silt up” over time. As a rule, even if it is not used very intensively, the life of the well “on sand” is 4-5 years.

Artesian well or limestone well it is expensive, it takes a long time, 90% of summer residents will not be able to drill it on their own, but ... It serves for a long time, from 30 to 75 years (depending on the amount and concentration of suspensions), it can give out "to the mountain" from 5 to 100 cubic meters of water per hour ( at a depth of 30 meters).

Drilling artesian wells or wells "on limestone"

The most commonly used method is to run the casing to the limestone layer through the clay layers. The next stage is the “opening” of the limestone layer, which is drilled with the so-called “open hole”, to the very aquifer.

In order to avoid damage to the rock through which surface water can penetrate deep, plugging is used, which consists in pouring a small volume of cement-sand mortar through a special steel pipe under the limestone layer. There is such a peculiar filling of cracks through which contaminated surface water could get into the "artesian".

By the way:

This type of wells is even required to obtain a special "well passport".

Using the so-called European well drilling technology (so-called because the same technology was used a long time ago in some regions of the USSR), the well device is of a two-pipe nature. The first pipe with a large diameter stands on the limestone itself, after which a well is drilled with a final, working diameter. In order to avoid contamination of the artesian well with surface water, a compactonite clay sealing plug is made between the two types of used pipes.

Such a well will cost more than an ordinary one-pipe well by more than 50%. As a rule, several neighbors drill them together, but even that comes out all the same expensive. Their very existence at such a cost is explained by the very high quality of water.

Lifting water from a well or well

So, we got to the rise of water from a well or well. To establish the supply of water from a not very deep mine well, the vast majority of summer residents use surface pumps. The main condition and application is the distance from the water source to the house: in most designs of such pumps, it cannot be more than 50 meters (or rather, it can - there will be no sense).

If the well is deep, or a filter well is used to extract water, the same surface pumps, but already ejector ones. More often, submersible well pumps are used, which can easily “master” a distance of 40 meters (depth).

Well, if you are a happy owner of an artesian well, then you will have to use a submersible borehole pump, which is quite capable of lifting water from a depth of 100 meters.

If there is a desire to automate the whole thing, then you will have to resort to buying a CAB (autonomous water supply system), which consists directly of the pump itself, a hydraulic accumulator and a control pressure switch. The thing is great but expensive for many.

Pros and cons of different methods of extracting water

1. mine well. (Number 1 on the drawing-scheme)

The work is labor intensive. Despite the fact that much of its construction can be done with your own hands, you will have to call equipment and assistants, at least at the stage of digging, removing the earth from the well space and lowering it there concrete rings.

The advantages of the shaft well design are obvious: the possibility of self-repair, cleaning and disinfection as such a need arises (it may not occur for decades - it all depends on the place). It is recommended to resort to a shaft structure in dachas and areas with a close level of groundwater.

2. What is driving or otherwise Abyssinian well.(Number 2 on the drawing-scheme)

This is a design in which a steel pipe is hammered into the ground until it reaches the underground water table. On its lower link there is a filter and a head with holes made in it, through which the water will actually get inside this very steel pipe and be pumped out from there by a pump.

3. What is well chamber. (Number 3 on the drawing-scheme)

The option that people move to the country for permanent residence and young people are given their apartment (or rented out) now is not uncommon - therefore, water is constantly needed. In this case, a well chamber is built to protect electrical appliances from the effects of precipitation. The chamber is easy to build with your own hands from the same concrete rings or blocks with maximum waterproofing. Cover required.

4. What is drilling well(Number 4 on the drawing-scheme)

This is such a water supply device when a well is drilled to the groundwater table. Then, to a depth of 7-8 meters, an ordinary sewer pipe(115 millimeters in diameter), after which, using a filter segment (such blue pipes made of polyethylene), water enters the pipe and climbs up.

Water supply from a well - both cold and hot: how to do it?

If there is already a well in the dacha (maybe dug with your own hands or maybe left over from the previous owners), then at a relatively low cost, you can organize not only cold, but also hot water supply at home. In our case, an inexpensive submersible pump "Aquarius" was used to lift the water. The pipe exit from the well is waterproofed with silicone and cement. The distance from the well to the house is 5-6 m. So that there is no stagnation of water in the system, a valve is placed at the lowest level of the network.

We conduct water with our own hands - step by step

1. Using a cable, lower the pump into the well, avoiding tension on the power cable and supply hose. Fixed the cable to the surface. A cap for water intake was installed on the supply hose.

2. We supply water to the house according to polyethylene pipe, stretched along the bottom of a trench 50 cm deep. In parallel, a second pipe was laid, inside which an electric cable was passed.

3. The supply pipe was connected to - the further part of the water supply using a check valve to prevent the water from draining back into the well. A mechanical (coarse) filter was installed.

4. Bring the supply hose into the house. A pressure switch, a pressure gauge and a fine filter were installed on the inlet dispensing unit. Connected everything to the mains.

5. After being cleaned and filtered, the water enters the accumulator, which maintains the required pressure in the pressurized water supply system, saving the time the pump is turned on.

6. From the distributing unit, wiring was carried out along the walls of polypropylene pipes. The bathroom has a shower, sink and water heater.

More about the device of the well.

Every summer resident who is puzzled by the question of its construction should know the requirements for the “correct” well.

Often, in a suburban area that is not connected to a centralized water supply, cottage owners have to drill a well or dig a well. The task is not easy. But even in the event of a power outage, the well will provide continuous water supply.

With a relatively small depth of groundwater in the area (up to 40 m), shaft wells are constructed, water enters them through the bottom of the well (90%) and partially through loose wall joints (10%). The usual depth of such a well is 10-15 meters.

Signs and signs of the close occurrence of groundwater

1. The surest sign (unfortunately of course) is water in the basement, cellar.

2. The proximity of natural water bodies - lakes, rivers.

3. Dense evening fog in the absence of water bodies.

4. Juicy dense grass even in hot summers, not withering in the heat.

5. Plants in the area that need a lot of moisture.

6. Midges and mosquitoes in the air after sunset

7. Mochar on the site and covering the ground in some places with a light layer of moss.

How to start making a well

The best time to dig a well is autumn. In autumn, as a rule, the groundwater level is the lowest. Otherwise, you can “under-dig”, and the well will come out dry.

If the site is hilly and has elevations and bumps in the landscape, then the highest place is better for arranging the well - it sounds strange, but it's right, and here's why.

According to the laws of gravity, surface water, which most often pollutes the well, will flow away from the well, and not towards it, therefore the water in the well will be cleaner. Avoid the banks of rivers and places with a sharp change in terrain due to possible fluctuations in the level of groundwater. The minimum distance from sources of pollution (cesspool, parking lot, toilet) is 25 m, from the house - 4-5 m - this requirement must be observed.

Despite technological advances, well digging is still manual labor. The walls are traditionally reinforced with wood, concrete, stone or brick. The sinking process has become much simpler with the advent of reinforced concrete rings (more often they use rings "KS 10-9" or similar ones with a height of 0.9 meters and a diameter of 1 meter).

The initial ring is mounted on the bottom of the prepared pit, the next ones are added from above one by one as the soil is excavated from under the bottom one, which gradually settles. One or two rings are installed in the aquifer. After that, the joints are sealed with mortar, and the bottom is covered with a layer of gravel or gravel 20-30 cm thick - it serves as a filter for incoming water.

The space around the mine is covered with gravel and sand, and starting from the depth of freezing of the soil, a so-called “castle” is made of clay, which is needed to prevent surface and especially melt water from entering the well.

Packed clay is an excellent water seal, so additional waterproofing is not needed. Made over clay concrete pavement with a hard surface and a slight slope for drainage. A well shaft made of concrete rings is absolutely waterproof for groundwater, so with proper construction, you will always have clean water in the well.

Do-it-yourself well - drawing 1 and photo

On the diagram-drawing in numbers:

• cap
• rings
• ventilation tube
• blind area
• clay castle
• aquifer
• waterproof soil
• reservoir

In the photo (on the right), in numbers, the stages of building a well from concrete rings:

1. Laying the first ring
2. Installation of the second ring
3. Sealing with mortar
4. backfilling

We make the head of the well

As soon as the last ring is installed and the water level in the well is sufficient, we take up the construction of the ground part. The original and beautifully designed cap (outer part of the well) will become worthy decoration your site.

The head should protrude above the ground by about 1 m, and the shaft itself should be closed with a lid. A roof is erected over it in the form of a closed house, a canopy or a gazebo. A well-made roof will protect the well from dust, precipitation, foreign objects and foliage.

Gates of various designs, manual or mechanical pumps are used to lift water. Cranes, popular lifting devices in the villages, are too bulky for small summer cottages, so they are rarely used here.

Shaft well - installation of a "log house underground"

The installation of an ordinary, mine well with walls made of timber or logs is done by simply digging the soil under the log house.

Logs for logging a well must be taken of high quality, waste from the bathhouse or other residues after construction will not work.

Be sure to check the logs for mold, wood beetle grinder, fungus, etc. The forest should be taken only dry and nothing else - the opinion “it will get wet anyway” is erroneous.

Typically, the thickness of the forest for the installation of a well log house according to the mine type ranges from 20-22 centimeters. I think that the forest intended for these purposes should be cleared of excess bark and knots.

To facilitate installation, the crowns of the log house must be assembled on the surface by making the usual log marks. After that, the crowns are disassembled in a strict sequence, so as not to confuse the queue during assembly, and lowered into the shaft, where they are tightly adjusted on the spot.

At the next stage, in the middle of each of the 4 sides of the log house, a sample of land is made by 25-30 centimeters, after which the pores at the corners of the log house remove the supports in turn. The supports released from under the corners are brought to the places where the soil was chosen from and fixed there, again, in turn. Now they dig out the soil at the corners of the log house, as a result of which the structure lowers, and this work must be repeated until you reach the groundwater level.

The gap that is formed between the walls of the log house and the pit (from the outside) is covered with the same soil that was taken out of the pit and rammed as tightly as possible. After that, you can go down into the well shaft and trim its walls.

What should be the taste of water from a wooden well

The taste of water in wooden wells largely depends on the wood. It is better to choose alder, linden or birch: the flavor will be almost invisible. True, these breeds are durable. A log house made from undried pine will give the water a resinous flavor. And the water from the aspen well is slightly bitter at first. Most of all, larch is used for the construction of wells. She, like oak, does not give any "suspicious" smells and serves 20-25 years.

Well care

Inspect and, if necessary, clean your well, it is necessary to do this according to the recommendations of the old “well affairs” masters at least twice a year.

Garbage can also be removed with a bucket, but it is better to prepare a long pole in advance with a hook on one side and a stack like a net on the other.

We think it is unnecessary to say that one should not climb into the well alone.

Before descending into the well, check its gas contamination.

The general rule of working in a well is to check its gas content, it is always recommended to do it, regardless of whether there is a gas outlet or a swamp nearby. The easiest way is a candle on a string: it burns evenly - everything is fine, the flame fluctuates and gradually fades - there is gas, but it is not much, and if it goes out, then there is a lot of gas and you can’t go down.

If the well is old...

In practice, if you bought a plot with a well on the secondary market, then you cannot use the well - it must be cleaned, you never know what the old owners dropped there (well, if not on purpose - people are different, especially in our time).

An old well should be thoroughly cleaned by pumping water out of it. Pump out water gradually: after lowering the water level by 30 centimeters - half a meter, start cleaning the walls, then pump out the same volume of water again and continue cleaning, and repeat until you reach the bottom, which needs to be cleaned especially carefully.

After cleaning, the well and the outer house are disinfected with a 10-15% bleach solution: the walls are impregnated with it 2-3 times. Then the remains of the solution are poured into the well, mixed with water and in this state for 24-48 hours. At the same time, the head of the well is carefully covered with a tarpaulin so that chlorine does not evaporate. The first water that fills the well after cleaning must be pumped out.

On a note:

When digging a well, the approach of the aquifer is determined by a noticeable cooling: the air temperature in the well drops by a couple of degrees, and mini-fontanelles appear on the walls of the mine.

A well is a sacred place, a place of almost all peoples. Christians on the eve of big church holidays(Easter, Christmas, Epiphany) the water in the well was considered miraculous. They washed themselves with it, consecrated buildings, kneaded bread on it. Children were washed with water from a new well so that they would not cry.

The well requires a serious approach. In the village, the “well” traditions are still observed: do not arrange gatherings and picnics near the well, do not smoke or swear near it, do not give water from your well to ill-wishers and strangers, treat the well with reverence.

Pumps for summer cottages - how to choose the right one, what they generally are

Of course, the type of pump for water supply country house and the site will depend on the type of water source and its parameters in the form of the number of points that consume water and such characteristics as diameter, total volume of water, and, of course, depth. The concentration level of suspended matter in water is also a very important characteristic.

You will actually have to choose based on the above of three types - a borehole pump, a pump for a well or an automatic water supply station.

The simplest and cheapest solution is submersible well pump(of course, if you chose a well of one of the types considered above for the water supply of the dacha).

Such a pump can easily provide a small country house with precious moisture, and of course watering.

Its design is simple: stainless steel body, motor, start relay, centrifugal pump.

It does not require installation as such - tie it to a stronger string and lower it into the well, not reaching the bottom 1 meter.

A submersible well pump can pump out up to 6 cubic meters per hour from a depth of up to 10 meters (we don’t even honor manufacturers’ assurances about 30 meters or more, they make the sellers in stores angry, because pumps are often returned back with scandals, they simply don’t pull such depths ).

Some trade marks they produce submersible pumps with a base - they can be placed on a clean bottom of the tank.

Also, one of the advantages of submersible pumps is the fact that they are practically insensitive to water quality, they are equipped with a filter at the inlet. These words are supported by the fact that for many years the masters "wells" carry the same pump with them to pump out the first muddy water from the customer's well, and only after that I connect the master's pump when the water is already clean.

The cooling of submersible pumps is natural, due to the pumping of cold transported water through itself.

This type of pump is quiet, does not require maintenance (it works according to the principle: it is broken - it is cheaper to buy a new one).

Of the minuses, relatively (compared to borehole pumps) large dimensions. The consumption of electricity, and the lack of automation - will pump until you turn it off.

Downhole pumps (deep pumps)

Actually, everything is said in the name - they are needed for lifting and supplying water from wells, from great depths up to 40 meters inclusive.

Choose exactly knowing the depth of the well, and having calculated at least approximately your need for water. A well passport with a characteristic of the number of liters of water per hour will help you and, of course, advice from the one who drilled the well for you (if you did not drill it yourself).

They don’t buy a borehole pump with a margin - if the water is pumped out earlier, it will idle, and this is for borehole pumps unacceptable load and a moment that largely determines their service life.

The dimensions are very compact, allowing them to extract water even from very narrow wells. The water pressure is excellent - on the spot, you can water a third of our standard plots of 6 acres.

Additionally.

The most ideal option for water supply using pumps is, of course, automatic, arranged using a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, shut-off and check valves. With this design, there is enough water for everything and for a washing machine and a dishwasher and for washing a car and for watering and showering.

home station

A pumping station operating in automatic mode is the best solution for autonomous water supply to summer cottages. It replaces the submersible pump and supplies water from 10 meter water storage tanks. It has the already mentioned accumulator, relays, mesh filters, etc.

The core of the system is a pump, it can be either centrifugal or vortex.

Vortex will provide smaller dimensions than centrifugal, it costs less and gives more pressure. The main disadvantage of the vortex pump is that it does not tolerate even the slightest water pollution and quickly fails.

ANS with a centrifugal pump is “indifferent” to water quality - it pumps what it has, it can be equipped with an ejector, which further enhances its power and will allow pumping water from 20-25, and in some cases, more than meters.

Cons: Very noisy.

There are also many other options for a separate, autonomous water supply, given the annual improvement of manufacturers in this area. Every year, water filtration methods are improved, the productivity of pumps is growing, and, therefore, it is always possible to increase the depth of a future well to improve the amount of water.

How to calculate the amount of water you need.

Daily and weekly water costs can be determined by knowing the flow rate at all water intake points. The water consumption norms provided for various plumbing devices and appliances will help you with this.

On a note:

Watering the lawn will require at least three cubic meters of water per square meter. At the same time, water consumption can either increase or decrease due to the method of irrigation - fan, drip, automatic irrigation by time of day.

Irrigation of lawns and flower beds requires 3-6 cubic meters of water per square meter, while the consumption also depends on the method of irrigation and the intensity of irrigation.

Calculation of water pressure - formula

To calculate the pump head you need, use the formula below:

"Htr \u003d Hgeo + S + Hsvob".

"Ngeo"- the height of the pipeline entering the building relative to the water level in the well (which must be indicated in the well certificate).

S- the sum of all pressure losses, taking into account friction in the water supply and other parts of the system.

Nsvob- the pressure that is needed at the point of entry into the house, taking into account the provision at the highest and most remote point of the water consumption of the pressure value (0.5 atmospheres).

Interesting fact:

Water-lifting devices, consisting of a wheel and trays and jugs attached to it, were known in antiquity to many peoples. The wheel rotated by the force of the river, the water scooped up by jugs moved by gravity along the trays over long distances. Later, the simplest pumps appeared, made of wood with a movable piston for drawing water from a well. In the first century BC, a Greek scientist constructively described the first fire extinguishing pump.

1. Be sure to compare those parameters and water quality characteristics with those recommended by the pump manufacturer in the REU.
2. Make sure that the pump is equipped with protection against power surges, "idling", tight, resistant to water hammer.
3. Be sure to read the instructions for installing the pump and its installation - even if you do not install it yourself, you will control the situation when the installers start installing it.
4. A guarantee for a pump and a service is far from empty for them and must be - pumps work under heavy load and their failure is not such a rarity.
5. Pumps with plastic case I do not advise you to take it, in general, when buying, pay close attention to the quality of the workmanship of the case.

The principle of operation of the drainage pump

An impeller with blades is fixed on the drive shaft of the drainage pump. Through the suction grate at the bottom of the pump, the pumped water enters the rotating vane channel. Here, entrained by the impeller into rotation, it acquires a significant speed and radial (from the center to the periphery) pressure. At the outlet of the impeller, the liquid leaves the pump in an intense flow through the nozzle.

float switch

This is a device that is used as a pumped water level sensor to control the operation of the pump. The use of a float switch prevents the pump from running without water (dry-running protection), thereby protecting it from failure.

Built into the float circuit breaker, which (when the pumped water drops below a certain level and the float lowers) opens the contacts in the power circuit of the pump motor, thereby interrupting its operation. When the water level rises, the float rises and when a certain level is reached, the engine power circuit closes and the pump resumes operation.

We decorate the well - do-it-yourself decorative wooden head

Mine wells assembled from gray concrete rings naturally will not improve the appearance of a summer cottage. Therefore, somehow you will have to ennoble this business with your own hands. Hiring a carpenter or joiner because of such a trifle is reluctant - after all, the process is creative, and you want to fulfill the idea on your own.

And in the case of a decorative well (such can often be seen in cottages in a rural style or “country style”), it’s even simpler - excavation will not be required at all, since the well is installed directly on the ground. Rack anchors driven into the ground will prevent the structure from tipping over in strong winds. The role of a well reservoir will be played by an ordinary barrel for irrigation. Water is supplied to the container using a hose laid in one of the racks, and a pump. A bucket on a chain plays a decorative role in the design. There is no need to scoop water from above, bending over under the weight of the bucket: an additionally installed drain valve at the bottom of the well solves the problem. It is enough to substitute the container and turn the handle!

Stage one: preparation of wooden blanks

1. Draw a horizontal projection of an octagonal well on a piece of drawing paper on a scale of 1:1.

2. From a bar with a section of 38 x 68 mm, cut pieces 35.5 cm long along outside. Cut the ends at a 45° angle.

3. Lay out the trial parts directly on the plan. If the dimensions are correct, you can start cutting. A total of 88 parts are needed.

4. For the threaded rods on which the log parts are assembled, drill the segments through from one end.

Stage 2: Assembly of the well

1. Put the bars of the first row on the rods equipped with nuts and washers. Lubricate the joints (ends) with glue and additionally strengthen with self-tapping screws.

2. Lay row after row, in each subsequent row shifting the bars relative to the rod. Also use an additional glue joint between rows.

3. After laying the last row, saw off the threaded rods flush and file them. Washers and nuts "drown", after countersinking the holes.

4. In one of the segments top row pre-drill a hole d = 26 mm to install a hose that supplies water to the barrel.

5. One of the racks will hide the water supply. Make a groove for the hose in it: make two parallel cuts circular saw, then take out the wood with a chisel.

6. Attach the posts to the sump body with four mounting bolts (8 x 140 mm). Drill holes d = 8.5 mm in advance, insert the nuts inside.

7. After fixing the stands, install the water supply. Since the water pressure will be low, simple plastic hose fittings will suffice.

8. The parapet of the well is formed by bars laid horizontally and beveled at the ends by 22.5 °. In two segments, first make cuttings for the racks.

9. The rods alternately pass through one of the elements of every second row. Details are strung in a checkerboard pattern.

Stage 3: Installation of the roof

1. The supporting structure of the roof consists of two triangular "pediments" screwed together from bars. For added strength, add an adhesive joint.

2. Connect the gables with six bars - they will serve as a crate for the roof. Compose the skate from two angled and glued bars.

3. Lay a roof over the crate - a simple or tongue-and-groove board. It will be possible to lay the existing roofing material on top.

4. In order for the roof structure to rest securely on the racks, stiffen the corners on both sides with braces. To do this, chamfer the bars by 45° and screw them on.

5. Make the axis of the gate from a thin log d = 9 cm. For the main necks, use round rods d = 2.8 cm. For the crank, take a bar 23 cm long and drill it (hole diameter 2.8 cm).

6. Install the main journals with waterproof glue in drilled holes. From the side of the handle, release the neck behind the rack by about 5 cm. Put the crank on this outlet, after lubricating it with glue. When the glue dries, additionally strengthen the junction with a dowel.

7. Strengthen the gable boards by sawing them off with a bevel from the side of the ridge. A small protrusion of the boards towards the roof is designed to hide the edge of the roofing material.

8. If the well is “fake” and only masks the water column, then the design of the gate is similar to the real one, but plays a purely decorative role: the root necks passed through the racks are glued tightly into them and cannot rotate.

Do-it-yourself summer water supply in the country

The water supply in the dacha, where they live in the summer, and the rest of the time they come for the weekend (or less often), differs from the water supply of the cottage. Firstly, in the house where they stay constantly and all year round, there is always a positive temperature, which cannot be said about summer cottages. Secondly, when installing a water pipe outside the city, it is necessary to provide for the supply of water not only to the house, but also to the bathhouse, summer kitchen, and greenhouse. Thirdly, summer water supply is used mainly in summer, and is not used in winter. Depending on your needs and the frequency of visiting the cottage, a stationary or collapsible water supply system is selected. The second option is as simple as possible in the device and consists of simple hoses lying directly on the ground. In the autumn they are put away for storage in a barn.

Choosing pipes

For a stationary summer water supply scheme, pipes are laid in the ground, and only water taps are brought to the surface. The choice of pipes comes between two types - polyethylene (HDPE) and polypropylene (PP). HDPE pipes are cheaper, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to save much, since the components for them will be expensive. Polypropylene pipes are more expensive, but they have a lower cost of related materials. True, for the installation of polypropylene pipes you will need a special soldering iron.

How to avoid freezing plumbing

Both polyethylene and polypropylene pipes are resistant to freezing. For the possible winter use of the water supply, they are placed in the ground to a depth of 1.5 meters (below the freezing level of the soil in middle lane). If you plan to use water only in summer, one meter of depth is enough. It makes sense to dig a trench only to a residential building - pipes can be laid directly on the surface in the garden and vegetable garden.

The insulation system will save the water supply during winter use, if you do not want to deepen it. Special thermal insulation of pipes and a polyethylene corrugated casing will allow laying pipes to a depth of up to 30 cm. Another option is laying a heating cable, which will make it possible to place pipes directly on the surface.

Optimum pipe diameter: 15 mm is usually enough in the house, pipes with inside diameter 20mm or 25mm, the inlet pipe must be at least 32mm.

Calculation

Before buying all the necessary parts, study the place where the water will come from (the diameter of the valve, if it is already there, must match the diameter of the pipes). Next, determine where the outlets will be - for example, at the greenhouse, near the platform for the car, etc. Then draw a diagram on the site plan - how you will run the pipes from the water exit point. The plan will allow you to more accurately calculate the number of parts needed and help you communicate with the seller.

Drainage Tips

• When connecting a water heater, provide a tee and a tap for discharging used water with a hose nozzle
• To drain more than 50 liters from a water heater, provide a branch that will not go into a septic tank or loss, otherwise you will have to dump water into the street, which is not only not aesthetically pleasing, but also inconvenient.
• Traditional ceramic or rubber sealed faucets are less sensitive to residual water freezing.

On a note:

The main disadvantage of a permanent water supply, which is used only in summer, is the correct slope of all pipes of the system, namely, all of them must go with a slope to the tie-in connection.

As a rule, the tie-in is the lowest point of the water supply, usually a valve is made here, which is designed to drain water for the winter or in case of repair of the water supply.

Summer water supply does not have to be autonomous (from a well or well) - it can also be connected to the main water supply (if any). In this case, there is no need to drill a well or dig a well, save electricity, but there is a monthly fee for the use of water.

Conservation of plumbing for the winter

If the dacha is not heated in winter, then you will have to drain the water from the system every time before a long departure, absence.

Draining will be more convenient if, in front of the check valve of the pipe through which water enters the house, install wiring, a tee and a tap for emergency draining.

The same tap will be needed at the lowest point of each pipe branch in the house. Remember to remove water from washing machines, toilet bowls, etc. devices. Simple drain water in these cases is indispensable - the units will need to be turned over or blown through with a compressor. The water from the toilet should be pumped out (or filled with salt) so that in winter it does not freeze and the toilet does not burst. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, the pipeline supplying it is freed from water, then the liquid is removed from the water heater, then the washing machine and plumbing are drained. After draining, the residual water in the expansion tank membrane tank should not damage it when freezing.

Polypropylene plumbing

First, all threaded connections are assembled, then they are attached to the pipe. The most difficult thing is to assemble the threaded connections so that water does not leak from them. AT threaded connection one part has an external thread, the other has an internal thread. A fum tape is carefully wound onto the external thread (6-7 layers are enough, but if the thread is completely bad, then more is possible).

Then they screw and tighten the parts, pressing them tightly against each other, making sure not to skew. After that, you can gently tighten the details with a key, without fanaticism, of course.

To fix the pipe in the coupling, it is evenly cut with a hacksaw.

After loosening the clamping nut as much as possible, insert the pipe tightly. The pipe, which has gone into the coupling all the way, continues to be pushed further - another two centimeters. When the pipe finally stops, tighten the clamping nut.

Assembling a summer plumbing system in the country with your own hands - a description of the photo

1. We measure and cut the pipes, clean their ends from burrs, take a welding machine.

2. Welding of polypropylene pipes. The technology is simple: the element of the apparatus is heated to the melting temperature of the pipe, a sleeve is put on one sleeve, a pipe is inserted into the other. The pipe and coupling are melted, they are removed from the apparatus and inserted into each other. Frozen, they form a single whole.

3. Install a tee - branching water into the house and the garden. Let's make a conclusion to the crane. If in the future such a water supply is planned to be finalized and, for example, increased, put a plug.

4. We put the coupling nut on the tape, we screw a plastic pipe with a tap onto it. It will be very convenient with its help to preserve the water supply for the winter.

5. Entering water into the house. The water inlet hole was made more than 2 years ago when the kitchen and sink were installed. The drain then went into the pit.

6. Ready plumbing in the house with a flow filter. In total, at least two filters are needed - a standard mesh filter and a flow filter with one container.

Water analysis, purification and filtration

The city monitors the quality of drinking water sanitary services. Outside the city, all responsibility lies with the owners of summer cottages. How to know if water is safe or full harmful substances harmful to health? Laboratory analysis of water will give a detailed answer, what exactly we will drink under the guise of a clear liquid. Water sampling for research will be done either by a specialist or by you.

The most polluting water is runoff from poorly insulated pit latrines. From there we get bacteria and viruses, worm eggs. Domestic sewage will give water surface-active substances (surfactants), salts, complex aromatic hydrocarbons, phosphates, nitrates and nitrites. Mineral and organic fertilizers will add calcium, carbonates, sulfates, chlorides. And after washing your own car on the site, you will receive oil products, particles of lead, cadmium and other heavy metals (they are abundant in the soil along highways). And if we can wash the car at a car wash, then what about the water after washing clothes and other inevitable drains? The way out is to install an affordable filtration system and reliable treatment facilities. By the way, when ordering filtration or sewage installations, the company you contact will most likely offer you to do a water analysis for free.

Where to do?

Laboratory research with quantitative indicators of harmful substances is carried out at the sanitary and epidemiological station, in scientific organizations or specialized laboratories. A protocol with the results and a conclusion on the suitability of water will be given to you in 1-2 days. Complete Analysis it is better to do it during the initial examination of the source, and in the future to conduct an annual preventive examination.

What are water tests?

• basic (general assessment of the state of water according to 7-16 main indicators)
• complete (about 40 indicators)
• specific (for individual indicators at the request of the customer)

How to send water for analysis

1. Sterile container for bacteriological analysis (purchased at a pharmacy or sterilized by steam ourselves).

2. We take a sample “under the neck”, so that water does not come into contact with the strongest natural oxidizing agent - oxygen.

3. For chemical analysis, water can be brought in a clean plastic bottle from mineral water, rinsed with a pre-tested sample.

4. Before drawing water from the well, pump the system for at least 10 minutes.

Plot column

Inside light construction garden, decorative water column, between two wooden racks, a galvanized pipe and a threaded fitting are hidden, only the drain tap on the front side remains visible. In fact, the column is a holder for a pipe, water to which is supplied by any accessible way: from a well or from a central water supply. The panel on the rear side is easily unscrewed and removed, so the supply "pipeline" is always available for repair.

The only difficulty is that the construction will require a concrete foundation with a depth of about 80 cm! The column itself is assembled elementarily. Two posts with a section of 7 x 7 cm are attached to the foundation with steel anchors at a distance of 7 cm from each other (special grooves in the anchors - the bends of the holders on both sides - provide a sufficient distance between the soil and the tree). Communications are laid between the racks and closed on both sides with wooden panels. It remains to cover the "column" with a lid that protects from precipitation - and you're done, such a Russian!

materials

As a material for a wooden column, wooden blocks section 7 x 7 cm and a panel 22 cm wide and 20 mm thick in pressure impregnated pine. For such material protective covering, in principle, is not required, but you need to be prepared for the fact that in a few years the tree will turn gray.

An independent water supply system will allow you to forget about the main inconvenience of country life - the lack or lack of water. But it is quite simple to arrange water supply in a country house from a well, especially since a water intake for one land plot does not have to have a large debit. After all, I would like to receive water on my own plot, right?

After reviewing the information provided for consideration, you will be able to independently make autonomous water supply. It will reliably deliver water to places convenient for use. Those who wish to increase the level of country comfort with our help will easily cope with the arrangement of the system.

We described in detail the equipment required for assembly and installation, analyzed the principle of operation and the purpose of each device. In the article presented by us, the technology for carrying out work with step-by-step detailing is described in detail. Valuable information and recommendations are supplemented with photo collections, diagrams and video reviews.

The well is a working of a circular section, drilled without human access to the bottom. The diameter of such a working is always much smaller than its depth. Two types of wells are used for water intake.

Filter or "wells on the sand"

The depth of such workings does not exceed 35 m. Filtering on a closely lying aquifer, which is located in sandy soils.

Such a well is a casing string assembled from pipes with a diameter of 127 to 133 mm. It is usually equipped with a braided mesh filter, but there may be other options. Filter wells are distinguished by a small debit, most often it does not exceed one cubic meter of water per hour.

Artesian or "wells on limestone"

Deep structures that are drilled into an aquifer common in fractured limestone. It is about 20-130 m deep. Unlike sand wells, artesian wells have a higher debit. It can reach up to 100 cubic meters of water per hour.

Drilling wells in limestone is quite difficult, and the casing string is quite long. The drilling procedure lasts four or more days.

The figure shows a diagram of an artesian well, which is characterized by a large debit of water and a long service life.

Accordingly, the cost of labor and materials is significantly higher. The advantage of artesian wells is their long service life. They do not need a filter, since the host rock does not contain fine clay and sand particles.

Thus, silting of the well does not occur, therefore it can last much longer than a filter one, five decades or even more.

Choosing a pump for pumping water

The pump is a kind of "heart" of the system. The uninterrupted operation of the future water supply system depends on the correctness of its selection. On sale you can find several types of pumps of the submersible and surface category.

Deep and surface aggregates

The latter are called so because the pump itself is removed from the pumped liquid. The body of the unit is located on land, and water is taken through a hose lowered into the well.

Experts identify several criteria that must be taken into account when choosing a mechanism.

The total depth of the working and the water level in it

Key characteristics when choosing a pump. The technical documentation must indicate optimal depth for which the device is intended to operate.

If this requirement is not observed, the device will not work efficiently and may quickly fail. In the passport of the well, both its depth and water level must be indicated. They can only be compared with the characteristics of the pump.

If such data is not available, you can use very in a simple way to measure the depth of a structure. We take a long dry rope, tie a weight to its end and lower it into the well. We lower the rope down until the weight touches the bottom. We take out the rope. We measure the dry part - this will be the distance from the top to the water level. The wet part is the height of the water column.

Approximate debit of a water intake source

This is the name of the mass of water that can be obtained from a well in a certain period of time. In the passport, drillers indicate this value, but if not, we make approximate calculations.

We completely pump out water from the well and measure the time for which we did it. Then we measure the time during which the well is filled with water. We divide the second result by the first and get an approximate debit, which will be enough to select a pump.

How to determine the flow rate of a well and choose a pump, the video will demonstrate:

Estimated water requirement

Different pumps can supply water at a rate of 20 to 200 liters per minute. In order not to overpay for a more powerful model, it is important to correctly calculate your own water needs.

On average, it is believed that one person needs about 200 liters of water per day, so for a family of three to four people, a pump with a capacity of 30 to 50 liters per minute is needed.

Some prefer to take a device with a “reserve” of power, which will inevitably affect its cost. If it is planned that the pump will work not only for domestic needs, but also for irrigation, an increase in its power should be calculated.

It will depend on the size of the plot, but on average about 2000 liters per day should be enough. Thus, it is necessary to increase the demand for water by 40-50 l/min.

Pumps have different performance, in order to choose the right model, it is important to correctly determine the daily need for water

The pressure required for the operation of the devices

The pump passport must indicate the pressure. To calculate the required pressure, we add another 30 to the depth of our well expressed in meters. So we get the height of the water column.

We increase the result by another 10% and get the desired value. Comparing it with the data of the pump, we select the model. If there is no exact match, we “move” upwards.

The diameter of the pump must exactly match the diameter of the drilled well, otherwise problems with the installation and operation of the device cannot be avoided

Drilled well diameter

Another important value that determines the power of the pump. Like others, you can take it in the well passport or measure it yourself. In this case, it must be taken into account that the diameter of the well must be expressed in inches, where an inch is 2.54 cm.

The vast majority of pumps are designed to work in 4-inch wells. For 3-inch, most likely, you will have to order a pump in the catalog.

Equipment for autonomous water supply

Now you can carefully lower the pump into the well. We do this carefully, without jerking, and do not forget to fix the electrical cable that feeds the pump to the water pipe every meter and a half.

The wire must lie freely, without tension. After the pump touches the bottom, raise it to a height of one to three meters and fix it. Now we put the top part of the head in place.

We connect all the equipment located in the caisson to the water supply and electric cable: water purification system, valves, automation, etc. In the course of work, we strictly follow all the recommendations of the manufacturer of the devices. After connecting, we once again check the reliability and tightness of the connections of the water supply pipeline and the electrical safety of the newly assembled system.

The head for the casing pipe is designed to seal the structure and protect it from the ingress of dirt, debris, foreign objects.

Stage # 4: installation and connection of the accumulator

The volume of the accumulator can be very different: from 10 to 200 liters. Depending on it, the place where the equipment will be installed is selected. It can be either a caisson or a basement of a house.

When choosing an installation site, it is necessary to take into account that it is necessary to provide free access to the device for subsequent maintenance, repair or possible replacement of a failed container.

During the installation of the accumulator, a check valve must be installed to prevent the flow of water from the plumbing system to the tank. It is placed in the direction of fluid flow. A drain valve is also installed, designed for emergency draining of water from the tank. To reduce the level of vibration from a working device, we mount it using a special rubber seal.

Filters are an indispensable element of arranging a water supply system. They make well water suitable for domestic use and drinking.

We connect the water supply pipe to the accumulator. We assemble a starter that will power the pumping equipment. We connect a sensor to the accumulator, which will control the pressure in the compartments of the tank, and through it we power the starter. We connect the accumulator to the internal water supply system, directly or through a collector.

Step #5: Perform a test run of the system

After the installation and connection of all elements of the system have been carried out, you can proceed to its trial run. First, we activate the pump and, if necessary, debug its operation.

Then we fill the storage tank with water and check the accuracy of the automatic start and shutdown systems of the pump. Then we carefully inspect the entire pipeline.

We need to identify possible leaky areas. If they are present, we repair work. In addition, we check the operation of all plumbing fixtures connected to the water supply.

We also pay attention to the performance of the system: the water pressure must be normal even with all the taps open. If the test run was successful and the system works without failures, we dig in a trench that brings water supply from the well to the house.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Practically proven options for the construction of autonomous water supply are presented in the video:

Collecting water supply from a well on your own is a rather difficult task. It is important to choose the right equipment for the type of well, correctly install it and connect it.

In the absence of experience in such work, it is worth entrusting them to specialists who will quickly and correctly equip the system. The owner will only have to enjoy the comfort in his home, equipped with an autonomous water supply system.

We are waiting for your stories about the hand-made plumbing device at their summer cottage. You can leave them or comments in the block below. Please comment, ask questions, share information and knowledge.

It is unlikely that today someone will be satisfied with work or rest in the country, where there is no water. You don’t wash your hands, you don’t bathe yourself, you don’t water the garden normally, but it’s pointless to talk about ensuring the maximum comfort of living: a sink in the kitchen, a shower and bath in the house, a toilet, a washing machine and other delights of civilization. Therefore, the first thing that every summer resident cares about is autonomous water supply dachas. What is the scheme of the water supply system, how to choose the right pump or pumping station, how to install and connect them, as well as laying external and internal water supply - this is just an approximate plan for research and action, and this is our article.

The water supply of the dacha includes several elements that provide water intake from the source, its delivery to the premises, accumulation and purification, heating and delivery to each consumer. Consider an approximate scheme of the water supply system of the cottage:

1. Source of water intake (well, well or reservoir).
2. A pipeline leading from a water source to a utility room or house. It must be equipped with a tap for draining the water back from the system, in case of a breakdown or departure during the cold season, so that the water in the pipes and appliances does not freeze.
3. A pump or pumping station for drawing water from a source.
4. Coarse filter and check valve in front of the pumping station.
5. Fittings that ensure the normal operation of the system. This is a ball valve, pressure gauge, pressure switch, etc.
6. A hydraulic accumulator is a water tank with which you can control the system, turning the pump on and off. In addition, there is always a supply of water in the accumulator in case of a power outage.
7. Fine filters. Equipment for water treatment and water treatment. A set of filters is selected after research chemical composition water from the source. You can do this at the health facility. By the way, filters can be installed before the accumulator so that it contains only clean water. Water for watering the garden, washing the car and other technical needs does not need to be cleaned, so you can run a drain pipe, bypassing the water treatment equipment.
8. Water heaters or boilers for hot water.
9. Water distribution inside the country house. Can be done different ways: sequentially or with the help of a collector, when a separate pipe goes to each consumer.

This is just an approximate water supply scheme for a summer residence. It can be supplemented, remove some elements. For example, a hydraulic accumulator is quite expensive, so many people decide not to use it. The sequence of elements in the diagram may also differ slightly depending on the type of pump and the source of water intake.

What source of water supply for a summer residence to choose

The water supply system in the country always begins with a source. Well, if you have purchased a cottage with a ready-made well or well good quality. If there is no water source on your site, then you first have to think about how to make it.

Before deciding what to build: a well or a well, and how deep, talk to your neighbors. Ask them what they have, if they are happy, if there is enough water and what quality it is. Sometimes it is better not to philosophize too much, but to take advantage of the experience of others. You can also take water samples from neighbors for analysis to make sure its quality.

Well- the oldest artificial source of water supply. If the aquifer with high-quality, edible water, in sufficient volume (for a family of 4 people) is within 4 - 15 m of depth, then it makes sense to equip a well. It will cost less than a well, since you only have to pay for materials, the rest can be done on your own. It is also more durable than a well (service life up to 50 years). And one more indisputable advantage is that in the absence of electricity, water in it can be scooped up with an ordinary bucket. There is one drawback of wells: perched water can get into it, reducing the quality of water. But this can be avoided by properly waterproofing the joints between the rings and the place where the pipe enters the well.

In some regions, it is customary to hit wells exclusively. Do it by different reasons: either good water is close (an underground river or a source), or vice versa - groundwater is too low (more than 15 m).

Well "on the sand" affects the upper layers of the sandy horizon. This is the very first edible aquifer underground layer. It is located after dense loam, which filters ground, melt and rain water. Due to the fact that in different regions this layer is located at different depths, the depth of the well “on sand” can be from 10 m to 50 m. The water supply in such a well is 500 liters. The service life is about 5 years, as the filters become clogged with sand and silt. But this is very individual, because depending on the terrain, at a depth of even 15 m, you can get into an underground river, and the source is inexhaustible, and the filters do not clog. Service life can reach 20 years or more. It is best to hit the well "on the sand" manually, and look for a place using old-fashioned methods. As practice has shown, it is more likely to find an aquifer with quality water. If machine drilling is used, such a layer can simply be “skipped”.

Artesian well uses water from a limestone layer, which can be located at different depths, from 35 to 1000 meters or more. In limestone rocks, water is of high quality, its minimum supply is 1500 liters, and the maximum is practically unlimited. Most often, for personal needs, such wells are rarely equipped and up to a maximum of 135 m deep. Firstly, it is necessary to obtain permission for an artesian well and register it, since this aquifer is considered the property of the state. Secondly, its construction is much more expensive than a sand well and lasts from several days to a month. An artesian well excludes the possibility of water and groundwater getting into it, and its service life is close to that of a well, i.e. 50 years. An artesian well makes sense to clubbing with other neighbors.

If you decide to equip a well in the country, and not a well, be sure to ask to perform calculations of its debit. This is necessary in order to choose the right pump or pumping station.

Pumps and pumping stations for water supply - how to choose

Choosing the right pump for country water supply is one of the most important tasks.

Pumps are submersible and superficial. Submersible pumps are also called deep, they can pump water from a depth of 10 to 150 m. They are located in deep wells or wells. Surface pumps are installed in a house or utility room, they pump from a depth of up to 9 m.

To arrange water supply in the country, it makes sense to purchase a pumping station, which already includes a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure switch and a supply hose. Often such a station can be purchased anywhere.

The most common is pumping station with centrifugal self-priming pump with built-in ejector. Such a pump can suck in water from a depth of up to 9 m and deliver it up to 40 m. It is very simple to start the pump: open the filler cap, pour water into it to overflow, close and turn on the pump. First, it will pump air, and then supply water to the system. The advantage of such a station is the low sensitivity to air in the system, it is enough to open the cock / valve on the pump to bleed it. Such a unit is suitable for taking water from a well or a shallow well. It can be installed in a pit or caisson directly above a water source and supply water with a pressure of up to 40 m, or it can be installed in a house if a well or a well is very close.

Pump stations with centrifugal self-priming pump with external ejector used for pumping water from deep wells or wells (up to 45m), or located far from home. The stations themselves are installed in a house or utility room, two pipes lead from it, at the end of which an ejector is attached, and lowered into a water source. One pipe supplies water to the ejector to create suction, and the second pipe supplies water to the house. The disadvantage of such a station is the sensitivity to air in the system. And the advantage is that the station can be placed inside the house, and the ejector in the source of water intake at a distance of 20 - 40 m from the house.

When choosing a pump, pay attention to an extremely important characteristic - suction lift. Some indicate a height of 8 m, and others 20 - 45 m. Please note that a pump suction head of 8 m does not mean that it cannot be used for a well 15 m deep. The fact is that even in a deep well the water is much higher, at a depth of 2 - 6 m. This is due to the fact that the depth of groundwater is higher than the depth of the well, and according to the rule of communicating vessels, the water in the well rises.

Before you make water supply in the country and buy a pumping station, calculate the performance of your water source, check the level of the mirror, the pressure in the system and the volume of water consumption. For uninterrupted water supply at home performance value pumping station should be lower than the productivity of the water source (well or well), but more than the possible consumption / flow of water. To calculate water consumption, you can use the data from the table by simply summing up the water consumption in several consumers that can work simultaneously. Next, you need to calculate the pressure loss depending on the length and diameter of the pipeline.

Important! You can find out the performance of a well or well by experience, pumping water out of it with a motor pump and a conventional surface pump and measuring its amount. A mirror of water can be recognized by lowering a nut on a string into a water source, and then measuring the length.

After receiving the necessary data, you can proceed to the selection of a pumping station, all parameters will be indicated in the passport. Pay attention to the presence of a check valve and an inlet filter.

Do-it-yourself water supply for a summer house

Do-it-yourself water supply arrangement of a summer house is not so difficult task as it may seem. Let's assume that we already have a source of water supply, either inherited from the previous owners, or you yourself dug a well or drilled a well. All that remains is to complete all the installation work of the pump, pipeline and other equipment.

Installation of external water supply in the country

For the well. The first step is to dig a trench from the foundation of the house to the well, preferably without bends. Since the pipeline can freeze in winter, it must be located at a depth of 1.5 - 2 m (the depth of soil freezing in the Russian Federation). You can lay the pipe even higher, but then it should be carefully insulated, for example, wrapped with an electric heating cable.

In the second ring of the well we make a hole for the pipe. By the way, you can use plastic pipes, PVC, polyethylene, polypropylene, steel and others. It is advisable to choose those that do not crack from frost. We connect pipes with a diameter of 32 mm to each other. At the bottom of the trench we pour a layer of sand 15 cm.

Important! Installation of water supply in the country implies that it is necessary to slope the pipeline towards the water source. If the summer house will not be used in winter, then all the water from the system must be drained. To do this, a drain cock should be installed at the turn of the pipe in the well.

We lead the pipe section into the hole in the ring, bend the pipe and lower it down to the surface of the water. Insert inside the pipe strainer. We place the pipe at a height of 30 - 40 cm from the bottom of the well. To fix the pipe, we pump out all the water from the well with a pump, drive a pin into the bottom and fasten the pipe to it.

Then it is necessary to carefully waterproof the hole in the ring so that the top water does not get through it. We fill the pipes in a trench with a 15 cm layer of sand, then with soil, and around the well at a distance of 1.5 m with a depth of 40 cm we make a clay castle.

For a well. All work on digging a trench and laying pipes is no different. It is only above the well itself that it is necessary to equip either a pit or a caisson so that the pipes and the pump do not freeze if it is intended to be installed directly above the well.

Consider installing a caisson. We dig a well pipe 2.5 m deep and 2 times wider than the diameter of the caisson. We compact the bottom of the pit and fill it with concrete with a layer of 20 cm, it will bear the weight of the caisson. We install a caisson in the pit. We cut the well pipe at a height of 50 cm above the bottom of the caisson. At the same depth, we make a hole in the caisson for laying the pipeline. Next, you need to connect the pumping station.

We fill the caisson outside with concrete with a layer of 30 - 40 cm, then we fill it with sand and cement mixed, and the remaining 50 cm with soil.

Connecting a pumping station to a well

If the pump is remote, then it can be installed directly in the caisson. If the water is close, the well too, then you can install a pumping station in the house, and only bring a supply pipe into the caisson or pit and connect it to the well pipe. A faucet for draining the system down should also be provided here.

As an example, we install a pump in the caisson, connect it to the well pipe, connect the pipe leading to the house to the pump itself. But the rest of the equipment: a hydraulic accumulator, a control relay, filters are installed in a house or outbuilding.

Connecting a pumping station to a well

For wells located close to the house and with a high water level, you can use a pumping station with a suction height of up to 9 m. It can be installed in the house itself, in the utility room or in the well itself. But for deep or distant wells, you can use a pump with an external ejector, then the station itself can be installed in the house, and the ejector can be lowered into the well.

The room where the pumping station for the well will stand must be insulated or heated, the temperature must not be lower than +2 ° С.

Before entering the pump, we install a tap for draining water, a coarse filter and a check valve. Then comes the pump, after which the fine filter with shut-off valves on both sides. This is necessary to replace the cartridge in the filter. Then a hydraulic accumulator, and after it you can install a water treatment and water treatment system.

After all the elements of the pumping station, water treatment, etc., we lead a 32 mm pipe to the cold water supply collector. We install ball valves in the collector and connect 25 mm pipes leading to consumers or groups of consumers (as the internal water supply scheme suggests).

For internal wiring, steel pipes, metal-plastic, polypropylene and corrugated stainless pipes can be used. The latter are the most expensive, but also extremely easy to install. The best in terms of price and quality will be a water pipe made of polypropylene pipes. They are connected to each other and to fittings using an electric soldering iron, which is very easy to use and can be rented.

Important! The complexity of installing a water supply system in the country is that in winter, when the room is not heated, it is necessary to drain the water from the system. To do this, the entire pipeline must be installed with a slope.

Hot water supply in the country can be provided using a boiler or boiler. If the main gas is connected, it makes sense to install gas water heater. If not, then you can use an electric boiler. By the way, for an uninterrupted supply of hot water in the proper volume, provided that a gas boiler is used, it is also necessary to purchase an indirect heating boiler. For a family of 4 people, the volume of the boiler should be from 100 to 200 liters.

On the reverse side of the cold water supply collector, we divert the pipe to the water heater. We connect here. We lead the pipe with hot water coming out of the water heater to the hot water collector, where we also install ball valves and a tap to drain the water.

In this article, we examined the option of stationary water supply in the country, which can be used both in summer and in winter. But if the house is not heated in winter, and its heating is turned on only when someone arrives, for example, once a week, then before the onset of frost and before each departure in winter, it is necessary to drain the water not only from the system, but also from each consumer. Even from the toilet tank, washing machine, etc. For summer plumbing, such difficulties are not needed. It can be made from garden hoses connected to each other and laid out on the surface of the earth. After the end of the season, water is drained from the hoses, they are twisted and removed to the utility room until the next season.

The summer cottage has always been used for its intended purpose only in the warm season. Therefore, their owners did not bother about how to provide water to a small house. Water supply at the dacha was solved simply: either water was delivered in buckets from a nearby open reservoir, or a well was dug on the territory of the dacha. They drank such water, prepared dishes for eating from it, watered the garden and flower beds from watering cans.

But at present, the approach country cottages has changed. Many people come here not only in summer, but also in winter. And someone, in general, moves to nature on permanent place residence. This means that the need for a constant and high-quality water supply to the cottage becomes the first necessity. Because without water: neither there nor here. So, let's figure out how to organize water supply suburban area(dachas). What methods and methods are offered today. And how effective are they for giving.

Plumbing options for a summer residence

First of all, it is determined from which source water will be taken for domestic needs and watering plantings in the country. In principle, there are two options: an open reservoir or a well (well). As practice shows, everything will depend on how clean the reservoir is, and how far it is located from the summer cottage. If the distance is large, then laying pipes below the freezing level of the soil or the process of their insulation will cost a pretty penny. If the water in a lake, pond or river does not meet sanitary standards, then it can only be used for watering green spaces in the country. Disinfecting and cleaning it will also be difficult and expensive.

Therefore, the option with a well in the country is the optimal and correct solution. In addition, the owner of the cottage himself will be interested so that the source of water does not dry out, is clean and does not silt. That is, he will look after the well and clean it periodically. Of course, it will be difficult to dig a well and equip it. But these are one-time expenses that you have to go to.

Plumbing in the country

So, we will assume that the well has been dug in the country, it has water suitable for drinking. It is necessary to prepare for the construction of a water supply network. Let's face it, country water supply is a complete system with pipes, intakes and filters. After all, the conversation is about the water supply, which will supply the cottage with quality water all year round. It can be used for consumption and for other household needs: bathing in a bath or shower, washing dishes and linen.

The water supply of the dacha from the well begins with the preparation of a project that will display all the elements of the future system. It can be divided into two parts: external and internal.

The outer part of the water supply in the country

The external part of the country water supply includes a well, a pump installed in it, with the help of which water will rise up and into the house, piping, external outlets (taps for watering green spaces, summer shower and kitchen, swimming pool and so on). Be sure to place the points of water outlets on the plan of the suburban area. Thus it will be easy to calculate required amount pipes and fittings for them. After all, the pipe wiring of a country water supply system will not be easy. As practice shows, pipes will practically streak the entire territory of the dacha.

Since the conversation was about pipes, it is necessary to choose them correctly in terms of diameter and raw material. In principle, the choice of material is small, because today it is not better than plastic pipes. As for the diameter of the pipes, it will have to be commensurate with the diameter of the outlet pipe of the submersible pump. But the farther from the pumping unit, the diameter of the pipes will decrease. This is due to the layout of the pipe system in the country, and, accordingly, with a decrease in water pressure in them and a decrease in its volume.

Pipes must be laid below the freezing level of the soil. If this is not possible, because there can be many reasons for a summer cottage outside the city. For example, high level ground water. Then the dacha water supply pipeline will have to be insulated. You can choose any of the insulation technologies offered today, of course, it is optimal if this method is inexpensive. One of the simplest options is the use of heat-insulating cylinders (shells), which are still covered with a waterproofing film on top. Instead of shells, you can use rolled mineral wool or glass wool insulation, also covered with waterproofing on top.

Pump for a well in the country

Choosing the right pump for a well in the country is very important. Its main parameter is power, which determines the amount of water supplied to a country cottage. For water supply at home, this parameter will have to be calculated on the basis that one person consumes 200 liters of water per day. Depending on the number of people, you can accurately say what power pump is suitable for a country cottage. Approximately, its capacity will be equal to 40-50 l / h, if 3-4 people live in the country house. Add here the summer watering of the garden and vegetable garden, then you can safely choose a unit with a capacity of 60-80 l / h.

As for pressure, this is another important selection criterion. Everything will depend on how deep the pump is lowered into the well. 30 m is added to this figure, and the final number is increased by another 10%. And this will be the final result. Some experts also require to determine the capabilities of the well itself in the country. That is, how quickly it will fill up after each pumping of water.

If the groundwater layer does not lie very deep - not lower than 8 m, then a surface unit can be installed instead of a submersible unit. This is an ordinary water pump, the entire structure of which is installed at the top near a dug well. A pipe is lowered into the well itself, at the end of which a strainer is installed. The disadvantage of this apparatus is that there must always be water inside the pipeline entering the well. Air trapped inside will prevent water from being pumped out. And if this happens, then you will have to pour water into the system manually through a special inlet located on the pump housing. In addition, the pumping unit itself must be insulated for the winter.

The interior of the plumbing in the country

Many summer residents simply bring the outer pipe into the building, make the necessary wiring. And in this state they use water supply in the country. The simplest scheme, completely poor quality, because the water entering the Vacation home from a well, will not meet the requirements and standards of sanitation. Firstly, it will be cloudy with sand impurities, because the filter installed on the pump inlet pipe traps only large impurities.

Therefore, it is worth taking care of the quality of the water consumed. In addition, there is always a situation when there will be little water in the well, and it simply will not flow into the cottage. That is why it is so important to properly organize the water supply system of a country house. Let's face it, this is the most expensive part of the country water supply, because its internal system consists of a large number of nodes and devices.

So, the dachas are part of the water supply system, we will go from the inlet pipe to consumers:

• Coarse filter. With its help, small particles of silt and sand are retained.
• A container (or several containers) in which water is collected. This is in case it becomes small in the well. Thus, uninterrupted operation of the water supply in the country is achieved.
• Fine filter.

Attention! Both filters must be installed in an accessible free space so that there are no obstacles for their maintenance - replacement of filter materials.

If the water in the well contains a large number of iron, then you should take care to somehow remove this chemical element from it. The easiest option is to install an additional ion-exchange filter, since these are now sold in stores.

To create pressure in the internal water supply network in the country, you can use several options. The first is to install a collection water tank above the installation level of consumers. For example, you can mount the tank in the attic of the cottage. The second is to install a small pump specifically for the inside of the dacha water supply system. True, this option has one drawback - if the supply to the electricity supply is turned off, the pump simply will not work. We'll have to forget for a while that there is running water outside the city.

The third way is to install a hydraulic accumulator instead of a water tank. In fact, this is still the same tank or reservoir, which is divided into two halves inside with a waterproof membrane. When water from the well in the country fills the tank, it creates pressure on the membrane, pushing it to the walls of the accumulator. When the valve on the consumer (shower, sink, sink, toilet) is opened, the reverse action occurs. That is, the air in the second compartment of the tank under pressure begins to put pressure on the membrane, and it, in turn, on the water. Thus, water pressure is created in the dacha plumbing system.

By the way, hydraulic accumulators are very similar to expansion tanks for a heating system. They are distinguished by the color of the body. At the expansion tank it is red, at the accumulator it is blue. As for the volume of the container, it is necessary to take into account the fact that it is usually filled with water by 30-40%. For example, 100 liters of water should be enough for a small dacha in which 2-3 people live. But since the tank is not completely filled, it is better to purchase a larger one.

Installation of the external part of the water supply of the cottage

Plumbing throughout summer cottage(not counting from the well to the cottage) takes a lot of time and money. In addition, she has been inactive for six months, and maybe more. Therefore, such a system can save money.

• Firstly, it is this part of the country water supply that can not be laid below the freezing level of the soil, and there is no need to carry out its insulation.
• Secondly, it is possible to use not plastic pipes for laying, but rubberized hoses that are buried to a shallow depth - 20-30 cm.

First, a wiring diagram is determined on the territory of the dacha, according to which a mark is made on the ground. After that, trenches are dug out, and the hose is laid in them. It should be noted that manufacturers of rubberized hoses offer their products in coils 50 or 100 m long. So one coil may be enough to assemble the entire water supply system in the country without joints. At the branching points, you will have to install plastic fittings that are attached to the hoses with metal clamps. This is a reliable and tight connection that will faithfully serve the entire summer season in the country.

When there is no need to operate an external system in the country (autumn has come), it must be mothballed. The easiest option is to assemble the hoses into coils, after pulling them out of the ground and disconnecting the fittings. Be sure to drain the water from the inside. And all the collected material is stored in a barn or in the basement of the cottage. In the spring, all this is installed in places, which takes a couple of hours. And now the plumbing is ready for operation.

As you can see, organize water supply in country cottage not very difficult. Of course, the event is costly, but it is worth it. After all, an uninterrupted supply of high-quality water at any time is the convenience of living in a country house in the countryside both in winter and in summer.