Voltage regulator vaz 2110 malfunction. How to connect a three-level voltage regulator to a VAZ generator

Today, domestic cars have a serious problem with the rapid discharge of batteries. At the same time, their resource is rapidly running out, and new models on the market are expensive. The main reason for this is the frequent change of operating modes. In this case, little depends on the actions of the driver. In turn, the battery constantly requires voltage of different magnitudes for its charge.

The regulator installed in the car is designed to solve this problem. By default, it stands for a regular type with a fairly simple construction. In general, it is ineffective and does its job poorly. This is due to the fact that regardless of the operating conditions of the battery, it supplies a constant voltage to the device. However, it is not able to take into account the ambient temperature, the speed of the car, as well as the amount of energy required. At the same time, a three-level voltage regulator is able to optimize the entire process.

Benefits of Regulators

As mentioned earlier, regulators can save battery life. This gives the driver a huge opportunity. First of all, there are no problems with heating. Even on frosty days, the engine will start much easier. In this case, problems with the signaling, if any, may disappear. For many motorists, again in winter, it does not function well.

Among other things, the power of the lamps will increase. In this case, the visibility in the near and far beams will improve significantly. Also, a three-level voltage regulator can affect the operation of the stove. According to motorists, it has the ability to work much better with a fully charged battery. You can also notice an increase in the speed of switching power windows. As a result, the driver loses many problems.

What is needed for installation?

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the equipment of the device. The standard set of the regulator includes instructions, the device itself and connecting wires with special brush holders that are needed to fix the case.

Before installing the equipment, you should prepare an open-end wrench and a Phillips screwdriver in advance. You will also need a knife and a tester to determine the voltage. To securely clamp the terminals, you should use tongs, but ordinary pliers will also work.

Controller connection

Connecting the voltage regulator begins by disconnecting the negative terminal. In this case, it should be completely twisted from the battery. The second step is to remove the nut, which is located on the generator. This must be done with a pre-prepared key. After that, the nut is deposited towards the drive. In order to get to the casing, you need to remove the block, and it is usually fastened with three latches. To disconnect them, you need to gently pry them off the edge with something. Only after that it is possible to disconnect the plastic casing of the generator, where its screws are located. Before unscrewing them, you need to make sure that the plug is completely removed.

The next step is to remove the nut. In this case, the ends should be well processed with a file. In this case, this will ensure excellent contact between the diode bridge and the spacer bushing. The brush holder is directly installed in place of the regulator. The main thing is to compact it a little to fix it. After that, the casing can immediately be installed in its original place. Next, carefully lay the wire of the regulator. It should be done, given the location of the main wiring of the car. In order for them not to hang out, everything must be fixed with ordinary plastic clamps. The next step is to install the three-level voltage regulator directly. In this case, contact with the mass must be tight.

In some cases, a shunt is used for this. In this situation, this will allow you to connect the regulator and generator housings more reliably. After connecting the device, you need to fasten other wires from the kit. As a result, the operation of the regulator must be immediately checked. At the same time, the car battery is loaded at full capacity, and this can be done by immediately turning on the stove, headlights and radio.

Diagram of a standard regulator

The usual voltage regulator circuit provides different levels of diodes. At the same time, their barriers can differ significantly. This is primarily due to a sharp change in voltage in the system. You should also take into account the strength of the current. Among other things, regulators have heatsinks.

Their main task is to cool the diodes. Directly the position of the device is controlled by a toggle switch. Another voltage regulator circuit has an electric drive bar, which closes the circuit.

Homemade devices

Making a three-level voltage regulator with your own hands for an ordinary person is quite difficult. In this case, you should know the basics of electronics. The main element of the device are diodes. At the same time, finding a three-stage toggle switch is very problematic for them. Additionally, radiators should be installed for cooling. Otherwise, the diodes may not withstand the maximum voltage and burn out.

The components are connected to each other with wires. They must be quite long because the cable must be threaded through the cover directly to the regulator. The last thing you need to take care of the plastic case. In this case, the wiring in it must be well fixed. As a result, switching the toggle switch should be free.

Reviews about the regulator "Energomash" on the VAZ-2104

This three-level voltage regulator has good reviews. Many owners appreciated this model for its compactness and ease of installation. The length of this device is 67mm, the width is 41mm, and the thickness is only 23mm. At the same time, the device weighs exactly 80 g.

You can easily switch the regulator if necessary. As a result, the efficiency of the car's battery increases significantly. Rated current this model gives out at the level of 5 A and is suitable for generators of types 26.37 and 37.37. At the minimum level, Energomash on the VAZ-2104 is capable of reaching up to 13 V. At the same time, it is possible to set the toggle switch to a maximum of 14 V.

Opinion on the Energomash regulators for the VAZ-2110

A three-level voltage regulator (VAZ-2110) is well suited for drivers who use the car in difficult conditions. In this case, it is possible to move uphill for a long time. It also increases efficiency in the hot season. As a result, starting the car becomes much easier. In this case, the battery remains fully charged for a very long time.

The minimum Energomash regulator for the VAZ-2110 is capable of delivering a voltage of 13.6 V. In turn, 14.7 V is maintained at the maximum. Like the previous model, this regulator is quite compact. It can withstand a rated current of 5 A, and this device costs about 345 rubles on the market.

The problems of “undercharging”, as well as, in principle, “recharging” the battery, can be caused by many reasons, but the very first and most common on many cars (our VAZs are no exception here), as well as on many motorcycles, is the output of the generator relay-regulator from building. This device, despite its compactness, will save your battery and make its service life much longer. However, if they fail, it can simply kill the battery in a matter of weeks, so if you see white streaks, and also, the engine does not start after the night, even the starter does not “turn” - it's time to check the relay regulator of your car, but here's how do it yourself, and today I will tell you in detail ...

To start the definition

Relay-regulator - This is a device that regulates the current from the car's generator, preventing the battery from being recharged, saving it from overcharging, which is detrimental to the battery. Thus, this device greatly extends the life of the battery.

In fact, this is just a voltage regulator that does not allow the voltage from the generator to exceed the threshold of 14.5 Volts, this is a very accurate device and a must for all types of cars. However, it can be distinguished into two types.

Types of relay - regulator

If you exaggerate, then there are only two types, but each works according to the same principle, namely, it “cuts” or increases the voltage to the desired indicator.

Combined with a brush assembly. It is usually attached to the generator itself, in the housing where the brushes are located, there is also a relay-regulator.

Separate. Usually mounted on the car body, the wires go from the generator to it, and only then to the battery.

The cases are non-separable and tight in another type (often filled with sealants or special adhesives), that is, they are not repaired. To be honest, they are quite cheap, especially for our VAZs, so it's easier to buy a new one than to pick an old one.

These are the most common types, of course, they used to be the so-called combined with terminals, but they did not take root, because the device is not very convenient, so I will not talk about them.

If your relay is "covered" there is a constant recharge, then it is worth changing it, but first you need to make sure that it is in it. Now there are only two ways to check: - without removing it on the car itself, and checking the relay that has already been removed. Let's explore both options.

How to check the relay - regulator without removing it from the car?

Indirect signs

If your “regulator” is out of order, you will notice it very quickly, especially if it is winter and frost outside. The fact is that either "undercharge" will be present. When undercharged - you simply do not start your car - you come to the parking lot, insert the key, and the car barely turns the engine, or does not start at all, sometimes even the lights go out.

When recharging - almost the same thing will happen, only the boiling of the electrolyte from the battery cans will serve as an excuse. Indirectly, it can be determined by the rapid decrease in the electrolyte in the banks, and the white coating on the battery from above, as well as on the body parts under it. It is worth thinking about and checking the regulator relay.

However, this is not our method, we need to be more precise.

Correct Method

To do this, we will use our voltmeter, we need to measure the voltage at the battery terminals, with the engine running. To begin with, I want to note that with the engine not running, it should be within 12.7V, perhaps a little less, but if you already have 12V, then the battery needs to be recharged! Or look for reasons for undercharging.

We start the engine
We put on a value up to 20 volts

We connect the probes to the terminals
If the voltage is approximately in the range of 13.2 - 14V, this is normal.
We increase the speed (say up to 2000 - 2500), the voltage will begin to grow, from about 13.6 to 14.2 V, this is also normal.
Next, we try at maximum speed (more than 3500), the voltage should be from 14 to 14.5V, but no more!

If you have deviations, up or down, namely at any speed, the voltage remains at 12.7V, or even drops to 12V, then this indicates a malfunction of the relay regulator.

Also, if the voltage is higher than 14.5V, for example - 15 - 16V, the relay-regulator is again faulty, you need to change it.

To be completely honest, it is not always the relay that indicates the malfunction, the generator itself often fails. If the “regulator” is located separately, then you first need to change it, if nothing has changed, remove the generator and completely check the system. If the brush assembly is combined with the relay, then the generator must be removed!

We check the combined relay-regulator of the car

We will first check the combined circuit of the relay-regulator together with the brush assembly. These are now being installed on many foreign cars, and by the way, on many domestic cars (often they are marked Y212A).

As you understand, it is imperative to remove the generator and disassemble it here, since this combined assembly is mounted at the back next to the generator shaft, along which these brushes run. For this:

We are looking for a special “window” on the back of the generator where the brushes are immersed.
We unscrew the mounting bolt.
Remove the brush assembly.
We clean it - as a rule, it will be in graphite dust, the brushes are made of graphite, using special coal.

Then we need to check it, but for this we assemble a certain circuit, it is advisable to use a power supply with an adjustable load or a charger. We also need to take a regular 12V light bulb from the car, for example, from the “dimensions”, wires will be needed to assemble the entire system.

We may need a battery, because many chargers do not work without it. And now we connect a relay-regulator from the wire from the battery, to the brushes of which we connect a 12V light bulb, this can be done with small crocodiles, the main thing is not to break the graphite elements. A small diagram for understanding.

If you connect everything in a calm state, then the light will just light up and stay on, this is normal, since the brush assembly is a conductor of electricity from the shaft. Let me remind you that in a calm state, the voltage on the brushes will be approximately 12.7V.

Now we need to raise the voltage on the charger, up to 14.5 V, the lamp will burn, but when this threshold is reached, it should go out! That is, 14.5 V is a kind of “cut-off” for a further increase in voltage! If you lower the value, then the lamp should light up again. Then your relay-regulator is working, it has passed the test.

If the voltage has reached 15 - 16V, and the light is on, this means the relay is out of order, it needs to be replaced! It does not give a "cut-off" and will help recharge the battery. Here's a simple check. Now a short video on the topic.

Testing an Individual Relay

Similarly, you can check a new type of regulator, that is, a separate one, here the verification process is much easier. For example, let's take a model of the Ya112B type, they were installed on many domestic cars before (VAZ).

This is a separate element, so we just unscrew it from the body (sometimes from the generator cover) and attach it to our stand, I want to remind you again that it is desirable to have a 12V power supply, then the verification process is much easier. If not, we use a charger (with adjustment modes) and connect according to the bottom diagram.

The check is the same, we increase the voltage to 14.5 V, the lamp should go out, if not, or it turns off at a voltage much higher - then the relay is out of order, a replacement is needed.

Old type or check 591.3702-01

This is a very old type of relay, it was also installed on "penny", as well as on many rear-wheel drive cars. It was also always separately attached to the body, but the check here is slightly different in terms of contacts.

If you take their markings, then there are only two of them - “67” and “15”. The first contact "67" is a minus as well as the relay case itself, but "15" is a plus. The principle of operation is the same, we connect our charger - we start the test, increase the voltage to 14.5V, then look at the lamp. If it turned off well, no - bad, replacement.

To increase the battery life while maintaining its reliability is the cherished dream of every motorist. They can be understood - the thing is expensive, and in the absence of proper care it quickly fails. But it's not just about proper use. The battery loses most of its “health” for a reason that seems to be beyond our control. Let's explain. The fact is that in different modes of operation of the car, the battery requires a different voltage to charge. The regular voltage regulator, almost always, maintains a constant voltage in the on-board network, and yet the air temperature, speed and number of consumers are constantly changing. Here, a three-level voltage regulator VAZ 2110, 2114 serves to correct the voltage, and, consequently, optimize the charge mode.

Consider a simple and fairly common example: starting an engine in severe frost. Without a doubt, the battery in this case loses much more of its charge than in summer, and the voltage in the on-board network is also almost the same. We say almost, because, in fairness, it is worth noting that in the standard voltage regulator there is thermal compensation and it works pretty well. Only he has one significant drawback - it is located in the generator. It heats up one of the first and to a fairly decent temperature. That is, the generator is already warm, the thermal compensation device lowered the voltage, and the battery remained cold as it was. If you use a three-level voltage regulator VAZ 2110, 2114, then it is quite simple to put the switch in the appropriate position and the on-board computer detects an increase in mains voltage, not large, but quite sufficient to compensate for a cold start. This is just one example out of dozens possible in the operation of the car.

How to connect a three-level voltage regulator to a VAZ generator

As the name implies, this device has three switch positions. This is quite enough for most engine operating modes, since the voltage varies in the range of 13.6 -14.7 V. It consists of a brush assembly and an integrated voltage regulator. The first is installed on the generator, and the regulator itself is in a place convenient for you. It is a small (67x41x23), rectangular box with a switch and connecting wires.

Installing a three-level voltage regulator VAZ 2110, 2114 on a car is not difficult, it is enough to have minimal skills. By doing this, you will not only visit the collection point for old batteries less often, but also avoid many of the troubles associated with a sudden discharge of the battery, and this cannot be valued with money.

The car has long been one of the most sought after vehicles, largely due to its extremely high level of comfort. Many components require replacement from time to time, and in particular the voltage generator.
In some cases, you can get by with a local method, in others you need to apply a radical solution. Replacing the voltage regulator of the VAZ 2110 generator seems at first glance to be a small local problem, but it can be solved only by radically resorting to a generalized repair.
Replacing the voltage regulator on the VAZ 2110 generator is a matter that you can handle on your own.

General practical information about the voltage generator in the car

The excitation potential (voltage) in the car is created by the generator under the influence of alternating current. All this happens thanks to silicon diodes, which are integrated directly into the generator itself.
The rotating armature (rotor) of the generator functions as follows:

under the influence of current, the crankshaft pulley comes into action first;
the crankshaft of the engine itself receives a wave of current impulses directly from the poly-wedge;
as a result of the activation of the pulley, the rotor is activated;
then the generator itself is activated.

Brief summary of the main functions of the voltage regulator

From a practical point of view, the voltage regulator is the main regulating element of the generator. If the regulator fails, then, accordingly, the generator will also not function.
The list of main tasks of the voltage regulator is as follows:

independent control of alternating current supply;
activation of the voltage generator;
maintaining the voltage strength within strictly specified limits, regardless of the change in current strength and speed of the generator itself.

Note.
Each voltage generator contains certain specifics of operation, everything here depends on the specific model. In this regard, it is extremely important to read the manufacturer's operating manual, which in turn will significantly extend the life of the generator.

Preliminary preparation for inspection and replacement of the voltage regulator in case the need arises

The list of necessary elements for checking the voltage regulator:

standard flat screwdriver;
tester;
wrench "eight".

Note. The tools for replacing and inspecting the voltage regulator are identical.

Directly the algorithm for checking and replacing the voltage regulator in case there are objective reasons for this

first, the rubber cover should be removed, which in turn will allow you to connect the positive wire and the terminal to each other;

now you can safely start the engine by first turning it on;
the engine must be switched to the mode of operation of medium speed;

after which, you need to wait exactly 15 minutes and use a voltmeter to measure the value of the voltage created in this case (it should be in the strict limit from 13.8 to 14.4 volts).

Note. If the voltage generated during engine operation does not fall within the above limits, therefore, there is an undercharge, which in turn directly indicates a malfunction of the voltage regulator.

now it's time to check the stud, that is, the power output of the relative mass generator of its body;

after which it is necessary to make sure that the voltage of the power output of the generator matches;

then perform a voltage test on the power terminal.

Note. Before taking voltage measurements, you need to make sure that the terminal is tightly tightened with a nut, and its contacts are pre-cleaned and fit well together. Otherwise, it will not be possible to objectively measure electricity indicators, as they will be displayed extremely unstable.

if the voltage tester showed normalized indicators, then all fuses and contacts of the voltage regulator pads will need to be checked, in accordance with the method described above;
if, during the test, it was found that the voltage was not up to standard, then the problem should be looked for in the alternator belts first. It must be checked, and if it is faulty,.

Note. If checking the voltage in the alternator belts shows discrepancies with the norm, then they will immediately need to be simply replaced.

then you need to disconnect the negative terminal from the battery;
then proceed to disconnect the drive block from the output generator "D +";
then remove the rubber cover to the side and unscrew the nut;
now it's time to disconnect all the wires in the terminal stud;
in the generator excitation circuit there is a nut that holds the terminal - it must be unscrewed;

after the nut is wrapped, it will need to be removed;
the plastic housing of the generator is held by three nuts that must be unscrewed;
after which the casing can be easily removed;
the voltage regulator housing is held by two nuts, they must be unscrewed;
now you should remove the screw securing the voltage regulator from the rectifier unit;
after all the above manipulations, removing the voltage regulator is not difficult;
assembly takes place in exactly the reverse order.

Note. It is better to purchase several voltage regulators all at once, since replacing them is a completely ordinary technical manipulation.

The price of the regulator is rather low, the whole difficulty lies directly in carrying out the replacement itself with your own hands. Above, the instruction for checking and replacing the voltage regulator was illustrated in detail.
However, for its practical understanding and understanding, it is also necessary to additionally use photo and video materials. The main thing is to master the general algorithm of actions well.
Having carried out several independent replacements, a completely practical awareness of this procedure will come, which will help save a significant amount of time. The more practice, the less time is needed.

Checking the generator voltage regulator it is necessary in the case when problems with the battery began to be observed. In particular, he became or recharged. When such a malfunction occurs, it's time to check the generator voltage regulator relay.

The relay should turn off at 14.2-14.5V

The task of this simple device is to regulate the value of the voltage of the electric current, which is to the battery. When it fails, the battery is either insufficiently charged or, on the contrary, recharged, which is also dangerous, since this significantly reduces the battery life.

Agree that such a perspective is not very good due to one small detail. That is why it is so important to control the working condition of the voltage regulator (it can also be called a tablet or a chocolate bar). But in order to properly check the voltage regulator, you need to know its type and several important features.

Types of voltage regulators

Having dealt with what types of these devices are, what are their features and properties, a complete understanding of the procedures carried out during the verification will come. It will also give an answer, according to what scheme, in what way and how to check the generator voltage regulator. There are two types of regulators:

combined;
separate.

In the first case, it means that the regulator housing is aligned with the brush assembly directly in the generator housing. In the second case, the regulator is a separate unit, which is located on the body of the machine, in the engine compartment, and wires from the generator go to it, and wires to the battery are already pulled from it.

Feature of Regulators is that their cases are non-separable. They are usually filled with sealant or a special resin. Yes, and there is not much point in repairing them, since the device is inexpensive. Therefore, the main problem in this vein is to check the generator voltage regulator relay. Regardless of the type of regulator, the voltage symptoms will be the same.

Symptoms

So, in case of low voltage, the battery simply will not be charged. That is, in the morning you will not be able to start the car, perhaps the lamps on the dashboard will not even light up, or trouble will arise while driving. For example, dim headlights at night, unstable operation of the electrical system (problems with electrical appliances - wipers, heaters, radio, and so on).

In the case of increased voltage, there is a high probability of a decrease in the electrolyte level in the battery banks, or its boiling away. A white coating may also appear on the battery case. When overcharging, the battery may behave inappropriately.

Signs, malfunctions and repair of the generator and voltage regulator

In addition, the following signs of a malfunction of the voltage regulator can still be distinguished (in some cases, some of them may either occur or be absent, it all depends on the specific situation):

when you turn on the ignition on the dashboard indicator light does not light up(although this may be a sign of other malfunctions, for example, that it burned out, the contact fell off, and so on);
after launch battery indicator does not turn off on the dashboard, that is, there are obvious malfunctions in battery charging;
the brightness of the headlights becomes dependent on engine speed(this can be checked somewhere in a deserted place by setting the car against the wall and turning on the gas - if the glow changes, then most likely the voltage regulator is faulty);
the car stopped working properly the first time;
constantly the battery is discharging;
when the engine speed exceeds 2000 rpm dashboard lights turn off;
the dynamic characteristics of the machine are falling, especially noticeable at high engine speeds;
in some cases may boil battery.

Reasons for the failure of the relay-regulator

The reasons for the failure of the voltage regulator can be:

short circuit in the circuit, including interturn short circuit of the excitation winding;
failure of the rectifier bridge (breakdown of diodes);
polarity reversal or incorrect connection to the battery terminals;
moisture penetration into the housing of the regulator and / or generator (for example, during a car wash or driving in heavy rain);
mechanical damage to the node;
natural wear of the assembly, including brushes;
poor quality of the directly tested apparatus.

There are a number of easy methods for checking the regulator, whether the assembly is removable or not.

The easiest way to test the generator voltage regulator

The easiest way to check the regulator is to measure the voltage at the battery terminals with a multimeter. However, it is worth mentioning right away that the algorithm given below does not give a 100% probability of failure of the regulator. Maybe, . But the advantage of this method is that it is simple and there is no need to dismantle the device from the car. So, the algorithm for checking the generator voltage regulator with a multimeter is as follows:

Set the tester to the DC voltage measurement mode to a limit of about 20 V (depending on the specific model, the main thing is that it shows values up to 20 V as accurately as possible).
Start the engine.
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals in idle mode (1000 ... 1500 rpm). With a working regulator and generator, the value should be in the range of 13.2 ... 14 V.
Increase the speed to 2000 ... 2500 rpm. In the normal state of the electrical circuit, the corresponding voltage will rise to 13.6 ... 14.2 V.
With an increase in speed to 3500 rpm and above, the voltage should not exceed 14.5 V.

If during the test the voltage values \u200b\u200bare very different from those given, then most likely the machine has a faulty voltage regulator. Remember that the voltage must not drop below 12V and must not rise above 14.5V.

As mentioned above, the regulator can be separate or combined with the generator. Currently, almost all foreign cars, and even most modern domestic cars, have combined relays. This is due to the specifics of their work and space saving.

Checking the combined relay-regulator

Checking the voltage regulator VAZ 2110

To perform the corresponding check, it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. For this, a charger or a power supply with an adjustable load is used (it is important that with its help it is possible to adjust the voltage value in the circuit), a 12 V light bulb (for example, from a turn signal or a headlight, with a power of 3 ... 4 W), a multimeter, directly the voltage regulator (this can be either from a bosch generator, or a valeo or another). It is desirable to have the wires used for switching with “crocodiles”.

Checking the voltage regulator at the generator 37.3701: 1 - battery; 2 - output "mass" of the voltage regulator; 3 - voltage regulator; 4 - output "Sh" of the regulator; 5 - output "B" of the regulator; 6 - control lamp; 7 - output "B" of the voltage regulator.

If you assemble a circuit, the voltage in which will be with a standard value of 12.7 V, then the light bulb will simply glow. But if you raise its value to 14 ... 14.5 V using a voltage regulator, then with a working relay, the light should go out. Otherwise, the regulator is faulty. That is, when the voltage reaches 14 ... 14.5 V (depending on the model of the machine and, accordingly, the regulator) and above, the light goes out, and when it drops to the same level, it lights up again.

It is important that the light does not go out until the voltage supplied to the regulator reaches 14 V. Otherwise, at idle, the generator will not be able to properly recharge the battery.

Checking the voltage regulator VAZ 2107

Checking the voltage regulator on VAZ 2108/2109 cars

Until 1996, an old-style voltage regulator (17.3702) was installed on a VAZ 2107 car with a brand 37.3701 generator. The verification procedure has been described above. After 1996, a more modern generator of the G-222 brand was used (there is an integrated regulator RN Ya112V (V1).

As you can see, the verification algorithm for all regulators is almost the same. The difference is only in the cutoff values when the relay is activated.

Checking a single regulator

Checking the voltage regulator at the G-222 generator: 1 - battery; 2 - voltage regulator; 3 - control lamp.

As a rule, separate voltage regulators were installed on old cars, including domestic VAZs. But some manufacturers continue to do so until now. The verification process is similar. To do this, you need to have a power supply with a voltage value regulator, a 12 V light bulb, a multimeter and a directly tested regulator.

To check, you need to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The process itself is the same as above. In the normal state (at a voltage of 12 V), the light is on. When the voltage value increases to 14.5 V, it goes out, and when it decreases, it glows again. If during the process the lamp glows or goes out at other values, it means that the regulator is out of order.

Test relay type 591.3702-01

Scheme for checking relay type 591.3702-01

Also, you can still find a voltage regulator of type 591.3702-01, which was also installed on rear-wheel drive VAZs (starting from VAZ 2101 and ending with VAZ 2107), GAZ and Muscovites. The device is mounted separately and mounted on the body. In general, the test is similar to that described above, however, the differences are in the contacts used in this case.

In particular, it has two main contacts - "67" and "15". The first of them is a minus, and the second is a plus. Accordingly, for verification, it is necessary to assemble the circuit shown in the figure. The principle of verification remains the same. In the normal state, at a voltage of 12 V, the light is on, and when the corresponding value rises to 14.5 V, it goes out. When the value returns to its original value, the lamp lights up again.

The classic regulator of this type is the apparatus of the PP-380 brand, installed on VAZ 2101 and VAZ 2102 cars. We provide reference data regarding this regulator.

Checking the three-level relay

Some car owners install three-level relays on their cars instead of standard “chocolates”, which are technologically more advanced. Their difference is the presence of three voltage levels at which the battery power is cut off (for example, 13.7 V, 14.2 V and 14.7 V). The corresponding level can be set manually using a special regulator.

Such relays are more reliable and allow you to flexibly adjust the cutoff voltage level. As for the verification of such a regulator, it is completely similar to the procedures described above. Just do not forget about the value that is set on the relay, and accordingly, check it with a multimeter.

Generator check

There is one method by which you can check the performance of the generator of a car equipped with a regulator relay 591.3702-01 with diagnostic elements. It is as follows:

disconnect the wires that went to contacts 67 and 15 of the voltage regulator;
connect a light bulb to it (excluding the regulator from the circuit);
remove the wire from the positive terminal of the battery.

If, as a result of these actions, the engine does not stall, then it can be argued that the car's generator is in order. Otherwise, it is defective and needs to be checked and replaced.

In order to increase the life of the voltage regulator, it is necessary to follow a few simple rules aimed at implementing preventive measures. Among them:

prevent excessive contamination of the generator, periodically inspect its condition, and, if necessary, dismantle and clean the unit;
check the tension of the alternator belt, tighten it if necessary (on your own or in a car service);
control the condition of the generator windings, in particular, do not allow them to darken;
check the contact on the control wire of the relay-regulator, both its quality and the presence of oxidation on it;
Perform a periodic voltage test on the vehicle battery with the engine running.

Compliance with these simple rules will allow you to increase the resource and life of both the generator and the car's voltage regulator.

Results

Checking the voltage regulator relay is a simple matter, and almost any motorist with basic repair skills can handle it. The main thing is to have the appropriate tools for this - a multimeter, a power supply with a voltage regulator (although you can also connect it to a battery with a charger), a 12 V lamp and pieces of wire to mount the corresponding circuit.

In the event that during the verification process you find out that the regulator is out of order, then it must be replaced(repairs are usually not carried out). The main thing is not to make a mistake when choosing it and purchase the part that is right for your car.