How to plant strawberries or reveal the secrets of a rich harvest. How to plant strawberries in spring? Strawberry Planting Scheme

Planting strawberries is a rather painstaking and hard work. However, there are a number of recommendations with which you can plant strawberries correctly and grow a rich harvest of this tasty and juicy berry.

Strawberries are a delicious berry that almost every gardener dreams of growing. It can be eaten straight from the garden or cooked delicious compote, jam or jam. If you are thinking about how to properly plant strawberries, then you need to decide on a few important aspects this process.

Planting strawberries: how to choose and prepare a place

The quality of the crop, the process of growth and development depends on the chosen place for planting strawberries. It is necessary to pay attention to the following factors:

1. Type of soil

For planting strawberry seedlings, it is best to choose black soil or loamy soil. Sandy and dark gray forest soil is also suitable.

2. Soil acidity

Acidity affects the growth rate of the crop, so before correct fit strawberries definitely define it. The pH level should vary between 5 and 6.5.

3. Lot location

If the planting site is in a lowland or closed, then the likelihood of getting a good strawberry crop is reduced significantly. For planting strawberry seedlings, it is better to choose the southwestern sides, where a lot of sunlight.

4. Groundwater level

Groundwater should not be too close to the planted strawberries. Otherwise, there is a risk that strawberry seedlings will simply die. Level ground water must be at least 60 cm.

How to plant strawberries: choose planting material

Already grown strawberry bushes are suitable as planting material, which can be bought at special markets or grown independently. You can also purchase strawberry seeds and grow them at home in special containers. This will take approximately 1.5-2 months.

You can also grow strawberries with the help of mustaches from bushes that are immediately planted in the ground. This must be done in autumn period so that the mustache has time to take root for the next season.

If you want to start planting in late spring or early spring, then you can use an already established strawberry bush that does not produce a mustache. To do this, you need to separate part of the bush and plant it in another place.

When to plant strawberries

Strawberries need to be planted at a time when there is no strong heat, but there is already abundant sunlight. This weather is established in May and persists in July and early August. It is important to take into account that good harvest you can only get it in the second year after planting strawberries, so you need to be patient.

Ways to plant strawberries

If you are seriously thinking about how to plant strawberries correctly, then you need to seriously approach the choice of how to plant them. Consider a few basic ones, using which you can grow a rich harvest of berries.

Planting standing bushes

With this method of planting, sockets are planted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. Due to this remoteness, the plants do not touch each other and are well ventilated, which makes it possible to obtain large berries. During the growth of strawberries, you need to constantly remove mustaches and weeds, as well as loosen the soil.

Planting nests

Planting strawberries in this way will require a lot of space. Holes will need to be prepared in the garden. One of them is in the center of the nest, and the rest are around it. The distance between rows should be 35-40 cm, and the distance between nests in this row should be about 30 cm. This planting method will allow you to grow many times more crop.

Planting in rows

This method is one of the most common. Thanks to him, you can get large strawberries, which will grow over 4-5 years. With this method of planting, the bushes are planted in one row at a distance of 20 cm from each other. During their growth, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds.

How to plant strawberries correctly

The whole process of planting strawberries can be conditionally divided into several stages:

    1. soil preparation;

    2. preparation of seedlings;

    3. planting seedlings.

Preliminary preparation of the soil consists in checking it for infection with the larvae of the May beetles and wireworms. You need to make sure that after the snow melts there are no larvae of these harmful insects. If larvae are found on the landing site, then you need to collect all the dry grass from the soil and burn it. Then it is necessary to treat the soil with ammonia water at the rate of 20 k. per 1 weave. It is important to make sure that this water penetrates to a depth of about 20 meters. To do this, you can use a cultivator or other devices for loosening the earth.

After preparing the site, you can proceed to the preparation of seedlings. Prepared seedlings 5-6 days before planting should be placed in a cool place. Immediately before planting, you need to deal with the root system of the seedling. If it is very long (more than 10 cm), then it must be shortened to 7-9 cm. Then you need to lower the roots of the seedlings into clay talker. You can get it by mixing half a bucket of orange clay with water. Such a measure will avoid drying out.

Seedlings should be planted in prepared holes sprinkled with humus. First you need to moisten the soil so that the strawberry seedlings take root better.

Comment on the article "How to plant strawberries"

Strawberry. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs, seedlings, beds, vegetables, fruits, berries, harvest.

Discussion

here is my garden with strawberries, or rather, almost without it :)


three rows per meter wide

I can stick to your topic)
plz tell me who knows. In the spring I bought strawberry bushes, covered the garden bed with agricultural fabric. There was not enough fabric for the entire bed, about 2/3. I planted bushes all over the garden, i.e. 2/3 beds under the fabric, 1/3 - without. About a month later, it became clearly visible that the bushes in the agrofabric did not feel well - they did not grow a single leaf. But the bushes without fabric - they grew so well, 3-4 new leaves appeared, the bushes became fluffy. As a result, the fabric was removed altogether.
What could I have done wrong?

Planting strawberries in spring. Yes, you can already plant. We always bought seedlings from a farm somewhere between Bitsa and Vidny... When do strawberries appear in the forest (or in the fields)??

Discussion

I like Elizabeth. Fruits from June until frost. The berries are delicious. But I didn’t come across growing in a flower pot, but I think that it needs to be insulated for the winter, otherwise it will freeze.

we are also near Strunino) 2 times I already took frigo from Lena, it takes root perfectly, if the leaves are planted in pots

Discussion

good evening
we have 2 oak trees. We make from leaves warm bed. We dig a hole the size of a garden bed, a depth of approx. 30-40 cm, plus the sides up 15 cm and there during the spring-summer-autumn we add grass, leaves, weeds, small branches ...
for the winter we cover with material.
In the spring we fall asleep with purchased land. Then we plant cucumbers, strawberries, zucchini, pumpkin ... in general, everything except root crops. The harvest is excellent, additional heat is created for the plants.

You can burn in a metal barrel, why are the leaves not suitable for compost?

Section: - gatherings (why strawberries died during transplantation). dead strawberries from the joint venture - a version of the causes of death. backstory: out of 25 bushes purchased from Helen, after transplanting from me...

Discussion

This "nursery owner" made a strange input, IMHO. You described the situation to her in exactly the same way as in the topic?
For your thread:
1) it is not clear how and why the strawberries from the first batch died? White hairy spots - really a fungus, most likely gray rot(this is the main "scourge" of garden strawberries) or powdery mildew - but did it appear on your new strawberries, and not on the old one? Where did the conclusion come from that the first batch of strawberries was infected with the fungus, and not new seedlings and not the soil into which you transplanted them?
2) you should at least read a little about fungal diseases or something ... The rapid development of the fungus contributes excess moisture, poor ventilation and cold. A warm, ventilated room (ideally, soil heating), free planting and arrangement of seedlings and moderate watering are the main preventive measures against fungus. Those. if the seedlings were infected with a fungus, then in a cold room it would appear much faster and more lethal than in a warm one.
3) I didn’t understand why you transplanted the purchased seedlings into pots? or it was sold without soil, i.e. you didn’t replant it, but just planted it for growing (it’s still not clear why not immediately into the ground, but I’ll write it off for fear of frost)? Where did you get the soil, what kind, how did you plant and water it?
Without seeing the seedlings and not knowing the degree of your experience, it is difficult to say something definitely, but according to your description, IMHO, a completely different conclusion suggests itself. It is very likely that it was your soil that was infected with the fungus - any garden soil contains fungal spores, they are destroyed (and not all of them!) only by long-term high-temperature treatment - sterilization or long steaming and subsequent storage of the sterilized soil in hermetically sealed bags.
When transplanting (planting?), you most likely severely damaged the roots and / or deepened the root rosette, plus watered the seedlings abundantly and put it in plastic pots on pallets, i.e. ensured the difficult flow of excess water and the lack of normal ventilation. In this case, the most obvious outcome is the rotting of the outlet, the rapid development of the fungus on rotting tissues and the mass death of seedlings within a few days. Any seedling, even the most benign - you understand?

out of 35 bushes I bought from Helen Sun, 5 bushes did not survive to open ground.
The rest I planted on Sunday.

tell the teapot about strawberries). ... I find it difficult to choose a section. I didn’t like planting with a covering, we have a pine forest nearby, we go to collect needles and pour between rows and ...

Discussion

I have 50-80 bushes, I don’t have enough for jam, the children eat almost everything, we get crumbs))) only at the very end, when I ate a little, I freeze it.
I didn’t like planting with a covering, we go to collect needles next to a pine forest and we pour a thick layer between the rows and around the strawberry bushes, the effect is the same, there are no weeds and the berries are clean

you are confusing something, it’s not covered with a film, but with mulch, it’s like that nonwoven fabric with which the bed is covered, holes are cut and a plant is planted in them

Planting strawberries in the fall has many advantages over spring planting. The most compelling argument for autumn planting or transplanting is getting berries next year. When and how to plant? If you plant strawberry bushes in the spring, you will wait for the harvest only for the next season. In addition, planting seedlings a couple of months before the onset of winter contributes to the preservation of flower buds.

Autumn planting (transplantation) is carried out when the cold has not yet come into its own, and the weather pleases with sunny days. Thanks to the heat, the planting material comfortably adapts to a new place of residence, takes root, and gains strength for wintering. autumn planting strawberries are also convenient for gardeners because they minimize the labor costs of caring for the bushes, in contrast to the vigilant spring-summer “duty” at the beds. In any case, each summer resident determines the convenient time for planting strawberries on their own. If suddenly for some reason you did not have time to plant this crop in the fall, you can always do it in the spring.

Autumn planting, photo:

Planting dates for strawberries in the fall

It is important to plant bushes correctly and on time. Thus, October is considered the best period in the Kuban for this process, and for middle lane This is August/September. At this time, young seedlings will not be actively attacked by pests and diseases, they will be able to get stronger and prepare for winter.

Early autumn planting starts from the second week of August and lasts until mid-September. The average time for disembarkation starts from the second week of September and continues until October 15-17. The latest period begins about 30 days before the onset of the first frost. However, when determining the timing, you should always rely on the climatic features of your region.

The most abundant harvest should be expected after early or mid-autumn planting. Last days warm August is the most acceptable period for this process. If you are going to use strawberry whiskers for planting, then focus on the time from the third week of August to the second half of September. At a later date, it is not recommended to plant strawberry mustaches, because such tender planting material will not have time to fully adapt in a new place before the onset of cold weather.

Landing process, photo:

Planting strawberries in autumn - soil preparation, fertilizers

Not later than a month before planting (transplanting), you must prepare the soil. During this period, the earth, as they say, will “settle down” - the roots of young plants will not be exposed later. Strawberries are considered a rather unpretentious crop, but, like any plant, she likes fertile soil and she has her "whims". For example, she does not like sandy, peaty, clay and sod-podzolic soil. Under such conditions, the yield of strawberries is significantly reduced, and on swampy soil planting it is not recommended at all - it will not grow at all. It should be borne in mind that even on ideal soil for it, replanting once every three years should be mandatory. by the most the best choice soil will become chernozem, loam, sandy loam.

Preparing the soil for strawberries when planting in the fall is to improve its composition, increase fertility. This is achieved by introducing useful components, improving aeration. It also gives good results by pre-sowing mustard or lupins in the place where strawberries will be planted later. With the advent of spring, these green manures will need to be cut, slightly crushed and mixed with the top layer of soil. This technique allows you to saturate the soil with nitrogen, improve its structure. Strawberries will grow well where legumes (peas or beans), broccoli or cauliflower, dill, parsley and other herbs. If the site previously grew tomatoes or cucumbers, as well as potatoes, then strawberries may not like it.

Pre-planting green manure helps summer residents save on top dressing, but does not completely exclude them. If the earth was previously qualitatively saturated with potassium-phosphorus, organic additives, then fertilizer for strawberries when planting in the fall can not be applied. Moreover, the bushes will not need additional feeding for the first couple of years. Well, if siderats were previously grown at this place, and fertilizers were used to improve their growth, such an environment would be ideal for growing strawberries. If none preliminary work were not produced with the ground, it is recommended to add 7-8 kg of humus per 1 square meter. You can also add humus (chatter) diluted in water right during the planting of the bushes - it is poured directly into the beds. This culture loves compost, biohumus, wood ash (the key to good growth).

The preparation of the beds does not include the introduction of nitrogen-containing dressings, as they reduce the immunity of plants in anticipation of cold weather and frost. The optimal level of soil acidity should be 5-6.5 pH, but not lower. Otherwise, the earth will have to be limed.

If you have an increased acidity of the soil on your site, then lime is best done a couple of years before the proposed planting of strawberries. As for groundwater, it is important that their level does not exceed at least 80 cm to the surface layer of the earth.

Pests are also very fond of eating strawberries: strawberry nematodes, beetles, wireworms are the most common gourmets. If, when digging the soil, you find their larvae, then be sure to treat the soil with diluted ammonia (10-15 ml per 10 liters of water).

Strawberries - planting and care in the fall

Quality planting material is the key to a good harvest! Choose bushes with a root collar diameter of at least 5-6 mm. The roots should be well developed, at least 6 cm long. Also pay attention to the number of leaves, there should be at least 4-5 pieces. If the seedlings were bought or taken from a neighbor, then they should be planted as soon as possible. If the planting process is delayed for any reason, place the bushes where the sun's rays will not reach them, and wrap the roots with damp moss (or at least a slightly damp cloth).

Young seedlings that were grown from seeds are first dipped with roots in a clay solution, and only then they are buried in the soil. This technique prevents the root system from drying out, helps the bushes to take root more comfortably.

The roots of the seedling, photo:

Preparing strawberry seedlings for planting:

  1. Plants should only be planted in moist soil. It is preferable to do this on a not sunny day, in the late afternoon.
  2. Long roots are best shortened to 6-8 cm.
  3. The roots of the bushes can be placed in a container with a growth stimulator diluted in water (for example, Kornevin), about an hour and a half before being buried in the soil
  4. On the recommendation of experienced gardeners, you can also soak the roots in a water-garlic tincture. This technique will improve the immunity of plants, scare away harmful insects.
  5. Extra leaves on planting bushes are best removed.

Seedling holes should be relatively deep and wide, the distance between them should be at least 30 cm. For each bush, a small mound of earth is poured into the hole, after which a seedling is placed on it, trying to combine the growth point with the surface of the beds. The roots are carefully spread on the sides of the mound, sprinkled with soil, poured with water.

Caring for strawberries after planting in the fall consists in loosening the soil - this provides high-quality moisture access to the root system of plants. Then the soil around the seedlings can be sprinkled with earth mixture with humus or sawdust. It will be nice if the bushes planted for the winter are covered with foliage or coniferous spruce branches - this way you will insure the strawberries during frosts, and the snow masses will remain in the beds. Periodically, the snow will melt and thereby moisten the ground. You can also cover strawberries with agrofibre or straw.

Straw mulching, photo:

Planting strawberries in the fall is associated with some conventions: growing mustaches should be removed immediately, as well as flower stalks. At first, freshly planted bushes need to be watered, but not too plentifully (the top layer of soil should remain moist). After 8-10 days, the frequency of watering is reduced, but the volume of water, on the contrary, is increased. After about three weeks, your seedlings will be adapted to winter conditions. We should not forget that strawberries do not tolerate drought very well, so saturate the earth with plenty of moisture before the onset of frost. When spring comes, it will be possible to remove the protective mulch, clean the bushes from old and damaged leaves. You can also play it safe and remove the top layer of soil (2-3 cm) for better penetration sunlight, removing possible pests.

Planting strawberries in autumn on agrofibre

The fact that bushes can be covered with appropriate material has long been known to everyone. However, you can also do the opposite. A rather interesting method is planting seedlings on covering material.

Advantages:

  • No weeds.
  • Protection of berries from contact with the soil - they remain clean, practically do not rot.
  • This material is not an obstacle to air or water.
  • The soil temperature is higher, as it is “warmed up” by agrofibre.

Initially selected appropriate place on the site, it should be flat, sunny, with a minimum slope. This is followed by the preparation of beds for planting strawberries in the fall - we dig up the ground, remove all unnecessary (weeds, roots of trees or bushes), fertilize with humus or other appropriate top dressings (mentioned above). After that, we thoroughly level the soil, outline the beds, lay the agrofibre on the ground. The color of the material is not so important, but for some reason in the recommendations experienced gardeners most often you can see advice on choosing exactly black agro-cloth.

Bushes on agrofibre, photo:

The canvas must be overlapped (approximately 20-30 cm), taking into account the shape and size of the site. We lay heavy objects (stones, bricks) around the perimeter and proceed to fixing the agrofibre on the ground. This is best done with wire, previously cut into pieces 50-70 cm long. We bend the wires in the middle, make a hairpin, as it were, with which we pin the material to the ground. This process can be done by eye or in a checkerboard pattern - as you prefer.

  1. We outline places for the bushes: the distance between them should be at least 40 cm.
  2. We make cross-shaped cuts with a sharp knife.
  3. We bend the corners of the incision.
  4. We place the bush in the resulting hole.
  5. We bend the corners back.
  6. Do not bury seedlings too deep into the soil.
  7. After planting, water the seedlings well.

If you have a large plantation for strawberries, then when marking the cut points on the agrofibre, we recommend using a marker. It's not hard to make it yourself.

Further care is minimal and consists only in the timely watering of plants. This can be done using a hose with a special nozzle for irrigation. Thus, it will always be wet under the agro-canvas. Before the onset of cold weather, strawberries are covered from above with protective mulch, as described above. In addition to all the advantages of this method, agrofibre will protect the berries from pollution, which is especially important during the rainy season.

Planting strawberries in the fall is not some kind of innovation; this technique has long been successfully used in gardening. If you do everything right, you will be rewarded bountiful harvest early juicy berries. Try this method too, especially since it does not present any particular difficulties and the use of new technologies.

Strawberries are one of the healthiest garden plants. The yield of ripe berries is stable for several years. With proper care and right choice plot, the plant gives a good harvest. What kind of berries to choose for planting? When to plant strawberries? You will find answers to all these questions here.

Choosing the Right Variety

There are many different varieties of strawberries. However, only a few have giant berries. large fruits have varieties such as Octava, Rozanka, Elvira-80, Marmion and others.

Growing strawberries in the ground or in pots

This plant is quite applicable for both options. But most often grown strawberries in open ground. Plants grown directly in the ground remain there for several years. Therefore you must choose right place you want to use pretty long time for growing strawberries. Also, the site should be near a water source, as strawberries require frequent watering. It can also be grown in pots and containers. This is aesthetically pleasing and useful, because strawberries are a storehouse of vitamins. Specialized containers are several pockets for placing plants. If there are restrictions on the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour garden, you can plant strawberries in such containers, pots, or in car tires.

Site selection

Before landing, you must choose a place, considering the following rules:

The plant needs a place that receives six or more hours of sunlight per day.

The site must be near water.

Do not plant strawberries in areas where tomatoes or peppers have grown. These crops can carry verticillium wilt, a disease that can kill the berry plant.

When to plant strawberries? Soil preparation

Before planting, it is necessary to prepare the soil of the garden by adding a large number of well-seasoned manure, peat and compost. Strawberries grow well in slightly acidic soil, so adding all this will provide the plant with nutrients, as well as improve the structure of the soil.

Some gardeners cover the area before planting with a dark cloth or oilcloth, having previously made cutouts for strawberries. This provides several benefits:

The fabric suppresses the growth of weeds, as grass seeds do not receive light.

The soil under the fabric remains warm.

Reduces moisture loss, which helps the growth and development of bushes.

When to plant strawberries?

Usually, gardeners plant and transplant strawberries in late July - early August, when the crop is already harvested, and the young rosettes have grown. Over time, strawberries will grow and your strawberry rows will become too tight for the plant. The yield of berries may decrease, so it is better to divide the bushes in early spring (before flowering), if you did not have time to do this in the fall.

Gardener's advice

The lunar calendar when planting strawberries will help you choose a favorable date. It is better to plant or transplant plants on a cloudy day or in the evening when there is no active sun. Simply dig up young strawberry rosettes and place them in their new locations. Watering transplanted plants should be plentiful to help them establish themselves in a new place.

Fertilizer

Growing high-yielding strawberries requires a monthly application of a balanced fertilizer. The annual addition of compost also has a beneficial effect.

Watering

Plants like well-drained, moist soil. Make sure your plants are getting enough water. Watering should be carried out in evening time or early in the morning.

winter care

In areas with harsh winters, it is best to use mulch to prevent strawberries from freezing. Pine mulch or straw works well, as they are light enough to not weigh down the plants. In the spring, after the soil dries out, gently rake all the mulch off the site.

Delicious garden berry

Growing strawberries is an affordable and enjoyable way to produce fresh, sweet berries in own garden. Now you know when to plant strawberries and how to care for them. By undertaking these simple steps, you can enjoy fresh delicious berry for a long time.

Strawberry- perhaps the most favorite berry. In addition to excellent palatability, it is valued for its high content folic acid, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium, iodine and many others. Many dishes can be made from strawberries, not only desserts, but also sauces.

The quality and quantity of strawberries depends on the cultivation technology. also differ from each other in taste, size of berries and many others, so you need to decide on the variety for cultivation.

How, after all, to grow strawberries, is it difficult to propagate and fertilize them, and other subtleties - find out in our article.

Strawberries can be grown in both seedling and seedless ways.

Seedling method of growing strawberries

So, when choosing strawberry seedlings, it is important to pay attention, firstly, to weather under which a particular variety is grown. Next, you should carefully examine the proposed seedlings themselves - on sheet plates ah and the plant as a whole should not have any mechanical damage, spots, dots, burns, etc. The color should be bright or dark green with no pale or whitish patches. The leaves should be smooth, in no case wrinkled. The root length of good strawberry seedlings is at least 7 cm. Otherwise, they want to slip you low-quality, diseased, infected seedlings, buying which you will only have problems.

In the event that you plant strawberries yourself from the varieties already available on the site, you need to properly prepare the plants for the propagation process. First, flower stalks are removed. The mustache is not touched. At the end of July, rosettes form on these very antennae - in many varieties their number is about 30.

Rosettes on which the number of leaves from 4 and above are suitable for seating. To do this, they are separated from the main mother bush and, together with a clod of earth, are planted in another place. After planting, such a new plant must be watered.


The seedless way to grow strawberries

This method of growing strawberries is applicable to those varieties that do not form mustaches. Process seed cultivation- much more difficult than usual. Seeds are easier to get in specialized stores.

Seeds are sown simply on the soil, and are not sprinkled on top. Sowing is carried out in a box, after which it is covered with glass or polyethylene. The cover is removed immediately when shoots appear. And the seedling box is transferred to a warmer and lighter place. It is important during the stay of plants in such boxes to monitor the level of soil or substrate moisture.

When one or two leaves appear, young bushes are transplanted into pots. Watered, fed, and when stable heat sets in, they are planted in the ground.

Growing strawberries - time and methods of planting

Everyone chooses the time and methods of landing for himself. Usually, strawberries are planted either in summer or in spring. In summer, the planting period lasts from late August to mid-September, and in spring - from late April to mid-May. The advantage of summer planting is that the first crop can be harvested already on next year. In addition, the area not yet occupied by strawberries can be used for growing other crops.

Landing is carried out in three ways - single-line, two-line and vertical.

Two line method strawberries are usually planted in open ground. The aisles are left 40 cm each, and between the bushes in the rows there should be at least 20-30 cm. The width of the beds should be at least 80 cm. The two-line planting method makes it possible to land large quantity plants to get a correspondingly larger yield.

One line method strawberries are most commonly grown own plots. It is planted between rows of trees, at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Row spacing in this case is 60-70 cm.

vertical way growing strawberries. Such planting is used in cases of growing ampelous (climbing) varieties, saving space and just for beauty.

For this, vertical wooden trellis supports are used. Plants are planted near such structures, and the resulting whiskers themselves cling to them.

planting depth for strawberries


Soil for growing strawberries

Strawberries are a berry, the cultivation of which should follow simple but mandatory rules. It is impossible to plant it in the direction of the northeast and in the shade of trees. Near trees with a powerful root system, planting this berry is also not recommended. It is not necessary to grow vegetables of the Solanaceae family near it.

Predictably, the soil for strawberries is prepared in advance. They carry out plowing, or digging up the earth at the same time (or immediately after) with the application of fertilizers.

It is a well-known fact that the best fertilizers for strawberries are organic. For the main application, take humus and compost. Fresh manure should not be used.

Be sure to check the soil for pests. Basically, it is the May beetle and wireworm. If larvae of these insects are found, sow alkaloid lupine in the area. This grass will enrich the soil not only with nitrogen, but also with other elements. In addition, pests will not sit in such a place for a long time.

Strawberries are not particularly demanding specific type soils, but grows best on chernozems and dark gray forest soils. It is better to return to its original place once every three years. Most good predecessors strawberries - steam, green manure and cereals.

In addition to using ordinary soil, strawberries are often grown on substrates. The best way- a mixture of turf, peat, humus, sawdust and sand. It is better to take soddy soil of medium loamy granulometric composition. For 7 parts of such soil, 2 parts of sawdust are taken.

Ash and dolomite beech can be added to peat. For 1 bucket of peat, they take, respectively, a glass of ash and 3 tablespoons of flour.

Sand is added by river. Its quantity should not exceed 0.1 of the entire mixture.

Fertilizer system for growing strawberries

Without fertilizers of this berry high yields you can't wait. Best of all, strawberries respond to the introduction of organic matter.

It is best to take humus and manure.

Manure is a mixture of pet bedding and droppings. Manure is used exclusively in rotted form. Otherwise, from fresh manure seeds fall into the soil weeds, pathogens and larvae of pests.

Humus - in fact, manure, but completely rotted and fermented. In humus, all micro- and macroelements are in the most convenient form for assimilation by plants.

Chicken manure can also be used best source organic nitrogen. Specifically for strawberries, you need to take chicken manure in a ratio of 1:20 with water.

Feeding is carried out and mineral fertilizers. The concentration of nitrogen should be within 14%, phosphorus 7%, potassium 27% and magnesium 0.5%.

To save time and Money, recommend purchasing complex fertilizers.

Nitrogen is needed to obtain berries with high taste properties. For the introduction of nitrogen, you can take ammonium nitrate or urea. 1 tablespoon of urea is taken per ten-liter bucket. The first time they are fed in early spring, after the removal of old leaves. A solution in an amount of about half a liter per bush is poured at the base of the plants.

Potassium contributes to more long-term storage berries. In addition, due to potassium, the amount of sugar in fruits increases.

The disadvantage of this element is visually determined by the browning of the ends of the sheet plates. Most often used potassium nitrate, potassium sulfate and potassium chloride. Bring in the spring separately for each bush.

Fertilizers are applied in two stages - in autumn and spring. In autumn, the beds are dug up simultaneously with the application of fertilizers. After harvesting, the second main part is introduced.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to different time, depending on the type of soil: in spring in light soil, in autumn - in clay soil. During flowering and fruiting, strawberries cannot be fertilized.

In mid-September, strawberries are fed for the last time - a glass is taken for 10 liters of water. wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska and 20-30 g of potash fertilizer.

When transplanting bushes to a new place, 8 kg of organic matter and 30 kg of mineral nutrition are added to the soil in advance.

Care of strawberries during the growing season

The most basic care for strawberries is timely watering. In dry weather, it is carried out once a week early in the morning. Water is used either spring or well-settled. In any case, the water should be warm.

Top dressing is carried out once every two weeks. After the full formation of the fruit, sawdust is poured under the bushes. This prevents the fruit from rotting. Also, in order to avoid rotting, the stalks are propped up with pegs.

In spring and early summer, bushes can be sprayed with phytohormones. This will improve the formation of ovaries and contribute to an increase in yield.

Berries need to be collected as they ripen, the long stay of ripe berries on the bush will negatively affect. They are collected together with the stalks. Unnecessary tendrils are removed, otherwise they will use part nutrients required by the main plant.

Sick plants are removed along with a three-centimeter layer of soil. If weather conditions abound in rain, plantings should be covered with polyethylene. By not doing this, you risk getting tasteless and watery berries.

Growing strawberries - preparing for winter

From the end of August to mid-September, plantings are thinned out. All diseased, dried, stained leaves and plants are removed. Remove whiskers and stalks. As a result, only about 30% of the original appearance remains from each bush.

If there are roots that have crawled out of the ground, they should be sprinkled with soil. Be sure to cover plants in regions with low temperatures. You can cover with both film and sawdust with peat.

Protecting strawberries from pests

The best defense is an attack, and in case Agriculture- a warning. can significantly reduce yields. To protect strawberries from pests, they are treated with the following insecticides:

  • Karbofos, Ph.D. (a.i. malathion, 50%). Effective against weevils, strawberry beetles, transparent mites. Spraying is carried out in dry calm weather. The air temperature should not exceed +15º C. Water for the solution needs 8 liters, consumption - 10 liters per 10 bushes. Processing is carried out a maximum of twice - after harvesting.
  • Inta-vir, v.r.p. (a.i. cypermethrin, 3.75%). Sprayed before flowering to prevent weevils. Consumption is 1.5 liters per square meter.
  • Aktara, v.d.g. (a.i. thiamethoxam, 25%). Insecticide against whiteflies and beetles. 4 g of the drug is dissolved in 5 liters of water. The consumption of such a solution is 2 l/100 m 2 .
  • Metaldehyde, w.g. (a.i. metaldehyde, 5%). A broad-spectrum drug on strawberries is used to combat snails and slugs. Spraying rate - 4-8 kg / ha.

Protection of strawberries from diseases

The main diseases of strawberries include wilting, rot, spotting and powdery mildew. can greatly affect the process of growing strawberries.

Fungicides used in the fight against strawberry pathogens:

  • used in 3-4% concentration before the start of the growing season and in a 1% solution before flowering and after harvesting against angular leaf spot, gray rot.
  • Soap-copper emulsion, consisting of 20 g of soap and blue vitriol per liter of water, destroys powdery mildew.
  • Topaz and Azocen at concentrations of 5-20 g per 10 liters of water, respectively, are also effective against powdery mildew.

Apart from chemicals protection, strawberry roots are dipped in biological preparations Agat 25K (7 g/l) and Humat K (15 g/l) before planting.

In addition, we must not forget about the agrotechnical conditions. proper cultivation strawberries:

  • return to the same place not earlier than after 6 years;
  • cultivation in the same place - no more than 4 years.

Strawberry!!! You can talk about it endlessly. Strawberries are most often mistakenly called large-fruited garden strawberries. Real strawberries are rarely grown in gardens. It differs from strawberry biological features. But since it so happened, in the future we will talk about strawberries, meaning that after all it is large-fruited strawberries. Everyone loves strawberries, they are very tasty and healthy. There is probably no other such berry in the garden that could compete with it. Obviously, therefore, each owner personal plot dreams of the splendor of strawberry beds in his garden, abundantly strewn with berries. It seems to a novice gardener that growing strawberries is a complex process and it is too early for him to do it. But it only seems at first glance. Having mastered the basic principles, any gardener can get great results. We start with planting material ... It is also worth mentioning that summer residents, in addition to growing fruits in the garden, are often interested in breeding bees. If you can’t breed bees on your own and have your own honey, you can always purchase it from a trusted seller.

planting material


Strawberries are bred either by seeds or mustaches. You can buy ready-made seedlings with a closed root system, grown in plastic containers. Such seedlings can be planted throughout the season, it takes root perfectly. Seedlings derived from seeds are healthier planting material, because diseases in strawberries are not transmitted through seeds, and layering obtained from mustaches can be infected from the mother bush. Instructions for growing seedlings from seeds can be found on the packaging.

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