The best predecessors for onions. After which crops can cucumbers be planted, and after which - not

Properly organized crop rotation can significantly increase the yield and quality of crops grown on the site. By planting vegetables in the same place, we deplete the soil, create favorable conditions for the propagation of diseases and pests. The authors of handbooks for gardeners and gardeners unanimously assert: vegetables should be planted every year in a new place, and returned to the old one only after 3-4 years. In practice, this is not always possible, but still worth trying. And the information given in this article will help you 😉

Forerunners of vegetable crops

• Divide the plot into 3-5 parts and alternate them annually vegetable crops. At the same time, vegetables are combined into groups (cabbage, nightshade, onion, legumes, pumpkin, greens, root vegetables) and in groups they move around the site. perennial crops placed outside the crop rotation (for example, along the fence).

D. G. Hession in the book "All About Vegetables" gives the following crop rotation scheme:

The author says that it is enough to alternate root crops and crops in which aerial parts are eaten in the beds. And one more thing: do not plant vegetables from the same group where they did not grow well last year.

tables

Based on observations and practical experiences, tables of predecessors of vegetable crops have been compiled. There are many such tables, and the data in them may differ insignificantly.

Table No. 1: VEGETABLE PROCESSORS

Table of PRECURSOR CULTURES No. 2:

Table number 3: VEGETABLE CROPS

Take note of one of the tables you like and draw up your crop rotation plan. To do this, you can get a notebook and annually write down the layout of vegetables there, so as not to forget.

vegetable neighbors

It has been proven that plants are able to influence each other in different ways: oppress a neighbor in the garden or, conversely, promote active growth and even repel pests. Therefore, in planning the placement of vegetable crops on the site, it is also necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the neighborhood. As a rule, this is important for mixed and compacted crops. And if incompatible plants simply grow on neighboring beds, nothing critical will happen. Our summer cottages are sometimes so small that it becomes simply impossible to make a distant division.

Table number 4: VEGETABLE NEIGHBORS IN THE GROUNDS

Table #5: CROP COMPATIBILITY IN MIXED CROPS

In order to achieve higher yields and save space on the site, the technology of compacted crops is used (vegetables are planted in a certain sequence on the same bed). There are a lot of options for crop combinations in such crops in the literature! We advise you to read 😉 And this article, we hope, will help you decide on the predecessors and neighbors of vegetables in your beds. Good luck with your sowing and rich harvests!

Growing vegetables in the beds, gardeners sometimes notice that the harvests are getting poorer from year to year, and the plants themselves are oppressed. The reason for this is considered by many to be malnutrition. Partly it is. But the main reason for the failure is the lack of a normal crop rotation of vegetable crops during planting. In this article, we will analyze all the subtleties and nuances of this important agricultural technique.

The main causes of soil fatigue

Violating the rules of crop rotation when planting vegetables in the garden, one cannot count on bountiful harvest. Plants planted in the same place bear fruit poorly and get sick, and the applied mineral and organic fertilizers do not solve the problems. And this happens for the following reasons:

• Is running out fertile layer soil;
• Pathogenic bacteria and fungi accumulate;
• A large number of pests are collected;
• The amount of toxins secreted by the root system increases.

On soils where long time crop rotation was disturbed, there is a significant decrease in yield. A vegetable crop planted in the same place in a couple of years deprives the site of a certain set of trace elements necessary for successful growth. Since the supply of these elements is limited, the soil is depleted, as a result of which the plants are forced to starve and lose part of the crop.

Failure to comply with the basic rules of crop rotation in the garden leads to the accumulation of pathogenic bacteria and fungi. A striking example of this can be the disease of planted seedlings with a black leg or fusarium. As you know, the causative agents of these diseases are fungal spores found in the soil. Ignoring the alternation of vegetables, summer residents only contribute to the accumulation of their disputes in upper layers nutrient soil.

If the crop rotation does not take into account the predecessors of vegetables when planting, then in addition to the accumulation of diseases in the soil, the army of pests increases. Each group of plants attracts its pests:

• Bulb crops attract;
• Nightshade - Colorado potato beetle and wireworm;
• Many root crops (potatoes, carrots, beets) - a nematode;
• Umbrella crops - carrot fleas, carrot fly.

In the absence of alternation of vegetable crops in the beds, a huge number of insect pests are concentrated in the soil, always ready to feast on their favorite plants.

Improper crop rotation of vegetable plants leads to an increase in toxins in the soil. They are formed as a result of the allocation of the root system of colins. In small concentrations (which is observed when observing the rules for alternating vegetable crops in crop rotations), these substances act as growth stimulants. Large concentrations of colin, released by the same crop, inhibit the growth of plants, which will affect their yield. This type of toxins, like herbicides, have a selective effect: some plants are inhibited, while others are immune. In the table, we have given a list of plants according to the degree of susceptibility to these toxins:

Table of susceptibility of vegetable crops to colines

ATTENTION: Neglecting the rules of rotation of most crops during crop rotation for only a few years can adversely affect the condition of the soil and the plants themselves. In order for this not to happen, you need to know the basic rules for alternating plants.

How to organize crop rotation in the beds

In order to properly organize the alternation of crops in the beds, it is very important to follow three rules:

• Botanical;
• Temporary;
• Fertility.

Guided by the botanical rule, it should be understood that the related precursors of vegetables, when planted, will only contribute to the oppression of plants. This is due to the following reasons:

• The same need for trace elements;
• Identical diseases and pests;
• Similar toxins secreted by the root system.

Thus, if the predecessors take a certain set of microelements from the soil, then the subsequent vegetables, when planted within the same family for the next year, will not have enough of them for nutrition. The accumulated colins can only be processed by plants of other botanical families.

The situation is similar with pests and diseases. In order to minimize the harm they bring, one should strictly adhere to the rules of crop rotation during crop rotation. In this case, serious damage to the grown vegetables can be avoided.

From this rule it follows logically next rule- temporary. Strict crop rotation means prolonged absence vegetables of the same botanical group on the same bed. The minimum term is 3 years. During this period, thanks to other predecessors, the soil heals, gets rid of toxins and most pests inherent in one family of plants.

NOTE: For carrots and beets, the following vegetable predecessors should be alternated for 4-5 years: green manure for the first year, cucumbers or cabbage for the second year, green manure again for the third year, onions for the fourth.

Compliance with the rule of fertility during crop rotation allows you to accumulate in the soil the necessary nutrients for a particular vegetable crop. Adhering to this rule, it is very important not to plant nutritionally demanding crops on the same bed for several years. Alternating plants, you should know the features of the predecessors:

• Using one (for example, legumes) can improve the condition of the soil;
• Others (all) allow you to make up for the lack of nutrients.

All recommendations for crop rotation are quite difficult to keep in mind. Therefore, it is best to have a notebook in which you can mark which plants were planted where. And for clarity, for our readers, we have prepared a table of predecessors, guided by which you can successfully alternate vegetables when planting.

Which precursors are best for vegetables

What plants should precede when planting vegetables
	Antecedent cultures
culture	Good ones	Medium	Bad
eggplant	Siderates, Onion, Garlic, Peas, Beans, Cabbage	Greens, Beets	Pumpkin, Potato, Sunflower
cucumbers	Cabbage, Siderata, Onion, Cabbage, Celery, Tomatoes	Beets, Greens	Pumpkin
tomatoes	Cucumbers, Carrots, Onions, Legumes	Beet	Eggplant, Potato, Pepper
Peppers	Cucumbers, Celery, Carrots, Legumes, Onions	Beet	Potatoes, Tomatoes, Eggplant
Potato	Siderates, Cabbage, Beets	Carrots, Greens, Garlic, Onion	Tomatoes, Eggplants, Potatoes, Physalis
Beet	Beans, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Cucumbers	Peas	Beets, Carrots, Chard, Cabbage
Carrot	Zucchini, Cucumbers, Onion, Tomato, Potato	Dill, Beetroot, Radish, Cabbage	Beans, Carrots, Parsley
Zucchini	Siderata, Carrot, Radish, Parsley, Dill, Onion	Beet	Pumpkin, Squash, Watermelons, Melons
Cabbage	Carrots, Siderates, Beans, Peas, Pumpkin, Zucchini, Squash, Potatoes, Celery	Tomatoes, Salad	Turnip, Radish, Beetroot
Onion garlic	Tomatoes, Siderates, Potatoes, Cucumbers, Peas	Beetroot, Cabbage, Radish, Turnip	Garlic, Onion, Carrot
Peas	Cabbage, Turnip, Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Potatoes	Greenery	Soybeans, Beans, Beans, Chickpeas, Lentils
Parsley	Tomatoes, Cucumbers	Peas, Beans, Beans	Carrot, Celery, Parsnip

NOTE: Green manures include green plants containing in large numbers trace elements necessary for nutrition (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium), as well as proteins, sugars, starch. When growing them root system improves soil structure. These include: Legumes, Vetch, Mustard, Rapeseed, Alfalfa, Clover, Lupine, Oats, Barley, Radish, Buckwheat and others.

Crop rotation is one of the most important agrotechnical rules, which is an indispensable condition for obtaining a good harvest. The alternation of crops in the garden should be carried out taking into account the predecessor, the state of the soil (acidity, fertility level, moisture capacity, etc.) and the phytosanitary situation (whether outbreaks of fungal diseases or the mass spread of pests were observed). To improve and improve the condition of the soil, it is recommended to include green manure in the crop rotation.

Competent crop rotation significantly reduces the risk of plant damage by various diseases, the process of accumulation of pests in the soil, and also increases soil fertility and provides a more complete use of plants useful substances located in the soil.

When vegetables are planted in the same places in a row for several years, soil infections accumulate in the soil with a gradual depletion of the soil.

The task of changing planting sites is to ensure that previous crops prepare the ground for subsequent ones. This takes into account the economic and economic component. For example, rationally early vegetables, vacating the site at the end of summer, to land winter garlic or rye, like green manure. And vice versa, it is physically impossible after late-harvested crops to carry out early spring sowing in the garden.

It is also important to take into account the peculiarities of tillage for each crop (in particular, the depth of digging) and the structure of the root system. Garden crops with a deeply penetrating tap root system are planted after crops with a superficially located fibrous root system.

We draw up an approximate scheme of a summer cottage with the placement of beds

Experienced summer residents begin preparations for the summer season in advance. After placing vegetable crops on the beds in the previous year, a plan for their detailed location is drawn up. This work can be done on a sheet of graph paper and in a special country notebook. You should not rely on your memory, because in 2-3 years everything will be messed up, and the crop rotation cycle should have 5 years (ideally, it is advisable to return each crop to its original place after 5 seasons).

Having a plan of our site, we distribute crops in the beds according to the principle of "coexistence". For example, it is not recommended to place eggplant and tomatoes, cucumber and radish, beets and beans on neighboring beds. good neighbors become onions and carrots, cucumber and corn, White cabbage and beets. Zucchini and pepper coexist with all cultures.

Since potatoes are often cultivated permanently, to restore fertility and improve the soil, it is necessary to use winter crops green manure (for example, winter rye). We divide the plot into two parts: we allocate one for early potato varieties, the other for late ones. In the second year, we sow the part of the plot vacated after the early potatoes with green manure and next year occupied by late varieties. So it turns out a simplified version of crop rotation.

It is very convenient to use a pre-prepared crop rotation scheme for 5 years in advance. Below is an example of a scheme for our site with 16 beds for the main crops. It is also worth marking on which bed and in what year fresh manure was introduced.

bed number	1st year	2nd year	3rd year	4th year	5th year
1	carrot	corn	cucumber	onion	radish and daikon
2	onion	White cabbage		green	zucchini
3	White cabbage	beet	tomatoes	cucumber	peas
4	beet	zucchini	onion	peas	pepper
5	garlic	carrot	zucchini	tomatoes	beet
6	tomatoes	onion	pumpkin	carrot	eggplant
7	pepper	radish and daikon	garlic	zucchini	tomatoes
8	greens (lettuce, dill, parsley)	green	corn	radish and daikon	cucumber
9	radish and daikon	pumpkin	pepper	beet	corn
10	zucchini	eggplant	beans	garlic	pumpkin
11	beans	pepper	radish and daikon	beans	carrot
12	eggplant	cucumber	beet	corn	beans
13	pumpkin	garlic	peas	pepper	White cabbage
14	peas	tomatoes	White cabbage	pumpkin	garlic
15	cucumber	peas	carrot	eggplant	onion
16	corn	beans	eggplant	White cabbage	green

To implement all the requirements of crop rotation in practice in a limited area is actually very difficult.

But there are 3 blunders that should not be allowed:

• return the culture to its original place earlier than after 3 years;
• choose a culture from one family as a predecessor;
• after root crops, plant root crops.

It is imperative to take into account the compatibility of cultures when planting closely, but sometimes an undesirable neighborhood can become inevitable. In our example, an eggplant bed is adjacent to tomatoes, which is undesirable from the point of view of the spread of diseases, but the plants themselves do not oppress each other.

When drawing up a crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops, it is necessary to take into account when manure was introduced on the site. For example, root crops planted after fresh manure application will have a twisted, ugly shape, and the fruits themselves will have poor taste.

It is recommended to make fresh manure for cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin. Therefore, these crops should go first in the crop rotation after filling the soil with fresh organic matter. Potatoes in this case can be planted only in the third year.

Distribution by families of main vegetable crops

When planning a crop rotation, it is necessary mandatory compliance conditions - vegetables are planted in their former places belonging to the same family with an interval of 3 to 4 years, and the longer this period is, the better.

The exceptions are: potatoes, strawberries, beans, which can be planted for years in the same place, provided there are no specialized pests and a high degree of disease development.

With a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden, most summer residents are forced to plant individual cultures on the permanent place, especially for potatoes, which occupy the largest area on the site.

In agricultural technology, the following distribution of the main garden crops by individual main families is accepted:

• onion - onions of all kinds, garlic;
• solanaceous - physalis, eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes, peppers;
• legumes - soybeans, beans, peas, beans, peanuts, cowpea, rank;
• umbrella - parsley, carrots, celery, dill, cilantro, cumin;
• cruciferous - radish, cabbage of all kinds, daikon, radish, turnip, watercress;
• pumpkin - cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon, squash;
• haze - chard, spinach, beets;
• aster - lettuce, sunflower, tarragon, Jerusalem artichoke, artichoke;
• labiales - marjoram, savory, hyssop, lemon balm, peppermint, basil;
• buckwheat - rhubarb, sorrel.

To prevent one-sided depletion of the soil, the planting of plants is alternated, taking into account what nutrients they require. In a greatly simplified form, this is an alternation of tops and roots (for example, carrots are planted after cabbage or tomatoes).

After garlic and onions, planting any crops is allowed, but re-sowing them in one place is highly undesirable.

Predecessor table

Each crop uses a certain amount of nutrients to form a crop, while releasing toxic substances into the soil as a waste product. Toxins can accumulate and oppress others vegetable plants. With this in mind, each species can be grown after certain crops. The following table provides recommendations for choosing a predecessor.

Planting culture	Antecedent cultures
	Recommended	Allowed	Excluded
Potato	Pumpkin, legumes, cabbage and cauliflower	Beets, corn, carrots, onions	tomatoes, peppers, eggplant
Garlic, onion	Tomato, white cabbage and cauliflower, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin	Pepper, eggplant, corn	Onion garlic
tomatoes	Pumpkin, legumes, cabbage	Beets, onions, garlic	Potato, physalis, tobacco, pepper, eggplant
Cucumber, pumpkin, squash, zucchini	Peas, beans, early potatoes, early white cabbage and cauliflower	Greens, tomatoes	Pumpkin
Peas, beans, beans	Cucumber, pumpkin, potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes	Corn
Carrot	White cabbage, tomatoes, legumes, onion, cucumber	Garlic, eggplant, pepper	Root parsley, celery
Green and aromatic spices	Cabbage, pumpkin, legumes	Onions, tomatoes, beets	Parsnips, carrots
eggplant, pepper	Pumpkin, cabbage, legumes	Beets, green	Nightshade
Table beets	Early potatoes, cucumber, tomatoes, early white cabbage	Onion	Carrots, beets
Cabbage	Beets, cucumber, onion, potatoes, tomatoes	carrot, pepper	Beet, turnip, radish, radish, daikon
vegetable corn	Beets, carrots, green
Radish and daikon	Undemanding to predecessor		cruciferous

Previous, compacted and repeated crops

On small garden plots it is important to obtain the largest possible yield per unit area. One of the expedient methods of achieving this is the joint cultivation, re-sowing and previous sowing of green manure, allowing several horticultural crops to be cultivated on the same area during one season.

Many vegetable crops ripen from one to three months after sowing. And the seeds of carrots, parsley, parsnips, the first 30-40 days grow very slowly, taking up little space in the garden. The unused area can be successfully used for compact crops.

Re-sowing can be done after harvest early varieties potatoes and cabbage, which are harvested already in early June. Previous crops can be located on the planned planting sites for seedlings or heat-loving plants that are planted about a month later.

Since ancient times, in order to obtain stable and increased yields, peasants have been practicing crop rotation (rotation) - crop rotation, that is, their annual movement through the fields of crop rotation in open ground, and fruit change - the alternation of crops in a greenhouse and a greenhouse.

Crops are distinguished by the amount of nutrients they harvest from the soil and are thus classified into strong eaters, weak eaters, and soil feeders. Some of the strong "eaters": cereals, cabbage. Some of the weak "eaters": potatoes and other root crops. Soil "breadwinners" include beans, peas, alfalfa, clover. Grow strong "eaters" in a plot where legumes ("feeders" of the soil) were grown last season, where there is now a lot of nitrogen and other nutrients, and you will get good harvest. In the next third season, this site will still have enough nutrients to grow weak "eaters". The fourth year, you start a new rotation cycle with the sowing of the "breadwinners" of the soil (legumes or green manure), etc. In addition, the long roots of alfalfa and lupine are able to absorb potassium, phosphorus and calcium from the deep layers of the soil and enrich the topsoil with them . That is also why legumes are excellent soil feeders and predecessors for most vegetable crops. The structure of the soil is also improved by such plants with a powerful and deep root system as cumin, buckwheat, flax and rapeseed. Such soil fatigue consists first main concept of crop rotation.

Very food demanding and a lot of "eat" all kinds of cabbage and celery, cereals. Then in this row are vegetables from the pumpkin family: cucumber, zucchini, melon, pumpkin, squash. Next - nightshade: tomato, pepper, eggplant, potatoes, all kinds of onions and lettuce, as well as corn, spinach and other greens. To less demanding(weak "eaters") include early potatoes, carrots, parsnips, root and leaf parsley, turnip, radish, radish, table beet, other root crops.

When plants of the same species grow in one place for a long time, their own root secretions (enzymes) poison the soil, the yield begins to drop sharply. Especially sensitive to their own secretions are beets and spinach, to a lesser extent cabbage, radish, radish, parsley, celery, peas, carrots and pumpkin crops. Rye, corn, beans, and leeks tolerate their root secretions well. Therefore, these crops can be grown in one place for a relatively long time. In that - second crop rotation concept.

With constant cultivation in one place of cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans, celery, pathogens of bacterial fungal diseases. Root and leaf nematodes, cabbage, carrot and onion flies become a scourge for the gardener. You can fight all these misfortunes only by alternating cultures belonging to different families. So, when keel appears on cabbage, this culture can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 5 years. This is what third crop rotation concept.

Thus, crop rotation allows:
reduce the influence of pests and pathogens accumulated in the soil, especially dangerous for the previous crop and less dangerous for the next one. For example, almost all plants from the cruciferous family are affected by cabbage keel, while for others it is not dangerous; brown rot and eels (?) affect the potato, and along with it the tomato; the number of roundworms (nematodes) increases in the onion area;
improve plant utilization of nutrients from the soil. With long-term cultivation of a crop in one place, the soil is depleted with the nutrients necessary for this crop;
rational use of organic mineral fertilizers taking into account their action and aftereffect on different cultures;
avoid negative phenomena (still little studied) caused by root secretions, characteristic of this plant species;
time-consuming deep digging should not be carried out immediately over the entire area of ​​​​the garden, but gradually (every year - only in the fields of crop rotation for crops that require deeper loosening of the soil).

Because plants from the same family tend to be more susceptible to the same pests and diseases, knowledge of the botanical families of vegetable crops is essential (see below).

Other features of crop rotation

Wait 3 to 5 years before growing crops of the same family on the site. So, growing peppers after tomatoes is the wrong decision.

Green crops (dill, spinach, lettuce) can be grown without rotation.

Cereal crops release an enzyme into the soil that inhibits the germination of small seeds. Therefore, grow vegetables with large seeds, such as corn, pumpkin, cucumbers, behind cereals.

Grow tomatoes, potatoes, and other nightshade susceptible nematodes after cereal crops(Poa family), as cereals suppress microscopic nematode worms in the soil.

After introducing peat into the soil on a new garden plot, avoid growing root crops, as the turf is a breeding ground for soil grubs and wireworms that damage root crops.

Annual entries

Keep records of crop rotation from year to year. This will make it easier to plan the crops on your plantation, make the soil on it more productive, and your plants will be healthy, free of diseases and pests.

Draw in the form of a plan on paper in a cage. Or in the form of a table on the diary page, for example, a four-field crop rotation - see below.

1. Rotation by plant families:

cultures	Rotation fields
	2010 year		2011 year		Etc.
	Spring	Autumn	Spring	Autumn	Spring	Autumn
1st year, 1st field, spring Solanaceae, except potatoes (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers). Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.)	1		2		3	Etc.
1st year, 1st field, autumn Lily ( onion, leek and garlic)		1		2		Etc.
1st year, 2nd field, spring Legumes (peas, beans)	2		3		4	Etc.
1st year, 2nd field, autumn Legumes (green manure)		2		3
1st year, 3rd field, spring Cabbage, including root crops (turnip, swede, etc.). Leafy salads	3		4		1
1st year, 3rd field, autumn Cabbage (in warm regions)		3		4
1st year, 4th field, spring Celery (carrots, parsnips, celery). Marevy (beets, spinach, chard). Leafy salads	4		1		2
1st year, 4th field, autumn Sowing rye (green manure)		4		1

2. Rotation by crop groups:

cultures	Rotation fields
	2010 year		2011 year		Etc.
	Spring	Autumn	Spring	Autumn	Spring	Autumn
1st year, 1st field, spring fruit crops(tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini)	1		2		3	Etc.
1st year, 1st field, autumn Siderates (sowing rye). Root vegetables (onions, garlic).		1		2		Etc.
1st year, 2nd field, spring Root vegetables (turnips, parsnips, carrots, radishes, root celery, potatoes, etc.)	2		3		4	Etc.
1st year, 2nd field, autumn
1st year, 3rd field, spring Legumes (peas, beans)	3		4		1
1st year, 3rd field, autumn Legumes (green manure)		3		4
1st year, 4th field, spring Leaf crops(cabbages, lettuce, spinach, herbs, green onions, etc.).	4		1		2
1st year, 4th field, autumn Sowing rye (green manure)		4		1

Belonging of vegetable crops to botanical families

To prevent soil fatigue and the impact of pathogens, it is necessary to alternate vegetable crops belonging to different botanical families. As a rule, vegetables from one family have the same set of pests and diseases that damage vegetables of this particular family and do not pose a great danger to other families. The table shows the belonging of the most common vegetable crops to certain botanical families. Looking at this table, you will know that in the garden where, for example, cabbage grew last year, you should not plant radishes, radishes and turnips.

In the culture table:*** - require a lot of nutrition, ** - require less nutrition, * - require even less nutrition; (+) - improve soil fertility.

botanical family	cultures
Legumes	(+) Peas, beans, beans, soybeans
Cabbage (cruciferous)	***All types of cabbage (white, red, Savoy, Beijing, Brussels, kohlrabi, cauliflower, broccoli, fodder)
	* Rutabaga, mustard leaf, katran, watercress, radish, radish, turnip, turnip, horseradish
Celery (umbrella)	*Carrot, parsnip, parsley, dill, cumin, fennel
	***Celery
Aster (composite)	**All types of lettuce, chicory, endive, buckthorn, artichoke, dandelion
Goosebumps	**Chard, spinach
	*Beet
Pumpkin	**Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, zucchini, squash
Onion (lily)	**All kinds of onions, garlic
Nightshade	**Tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, potatoes
Buckwheat	**Rhubarb, sorrel
Valerian	* Vegetable valerian
bluegrass	**Corn

Antecedent cultures

For correct alternation cultures you need to know about each culture and take into account:
what family does it belong to?
necessary for cultivation in one place,
and predecessors, the most dangerous common diseases for them,
as a rule, the preceding culture should not belong to the same family.

Table 1. Invalid predecessors

culture	Invalid predecessors
Rutabaga	Cucumber, cabbage
Valerian	Spinach
cabbage	Pumpkin, swede, radish, radish
Kozelets - sweet root	Kohlrabi, carrot, celery, spinach, toma
Kohlrabi	Cucumber, pumpkin, radish, radish
Corn	Radish, radish, onion
Swiss chard	Spinach
Onion	Leek, radish, celery, carrot
Carrot	Parsnips, parsley, fennel, celery, scorzonera, zucchini, tomato
Cucumber, other pumpkin	Swede
Parsnip	Carrot, parsley, celery, fennel
Parsley	Carrots, parsnips, celery
Radish	kohlrabi
radish	kohlrabi, spinach
Salad	Kohlrabi, endive, chicory salad, chicory salad
Beetroot	Chard, spinach, tomato
Celery	Carrot, parsnip, parsley, fennel, scorzonera, goat-sweet root
Scorzonera	Carrot, celery, tomato, spinach
Tomato, other solanaceous	Scorzonera, goat, sweet root, cucumber, zucchini
Spinach	Leaf beet, table beet, valerian, scorzonera, goat-sweet root

Table 2. Best predecessors

culture	The best predecessors
Peas, beans, beans	Potato, early and medium white cabbage, cauliflower, tomato, root vegetables, onion, leek, cucumber
Early white and red cabbage, green
Cabbage medium and late b/koch	Layer and layer turnover of perennial and annual grasses, green manure, tomato, potato, carrot, beetroot, cucumber, legumes, turnip onion, leek
Cauliflower and cabbage salad	Early potatoes, tomato, cucumber. annual herbs
Zucchini, pumpkin, squash	Root crops, cabbage, greens, potatoes, a layer of perennial herbs
Potato	Cabbage, legumes, root vegetables, cucumber and other cucurbits
Onion for turnip and sevok	Early white and cauliflower, cucumber, early potato, tomato, legumes, greens
Carrots, table. beetroot, parsley, celery, parsnips	Cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, tomato, onion, beetroot, leek
Radish, turnip, turnip, swede	Cucumber, tomato, early potato, onion, leek
Cucumber	Perennial herbs, green manure, tomato and other solanaceous, turnip onions, legumes, spinach, greens, cabbage, root crops
Beet	Potato, cucumber, early white and cauliflower, turnip onion
Tomato, pepper, eggplant, potato	Legumes, carrots, radishes, greens, cabbages, garlic, onions, leeks, winter wheat
Greens	Cucumber
Dill, spinach, lettuce, green onion	Cucumber, early potatoes, early white and cauliflower, carrots and beets per bunch, celery and parsley per leaf, radish
Garlic	Potatoes, carrots and beets on a bunch, cucumber, tomato

The selection of predecessors is especially important for crops that require a lot of labor for weeding.

Breaks in growing crops in one place (according to M. Ernst)

Groups of vegetables on demand for organics

Some crops succeed on fresh fertilizer (manure, composts, etc.), others do not give a good harvest on soil freshly fertilized with organic matter. Accordingly, all vegetable plants are divided into three groups.

First group- vegetables, which are in the first place in terms of the need for organic fertilizers. These include: cucumber, zucchini and other pumpkin, celery, garlic, leek. These vegetables respond well to fresh manure. This also includes strawberries, which are usually included in crop rotation.

Second group- vegetables that succeed in last year's fertilizer: These are: carrots and other root crops (radishes, turnips, radishes, parsnips, beets, kohlrabi, parsley, oat root and scorzonera), kale, valerian, dill, bulbous plants.

Third group- vegetables that can be assigned to the first or second group: salads, potatoes, tomatoes, etc. nightshade, onions, cabbages, broccoli, chard, rutabaga, spinach, beans, beans.

Crop rotation fields are made as equal in fertility as possible. Separate infertile areas are first sown perennial herbs. Then, as the soil improves, they are included in the crop rotation.

Ecology of life. Farmstead: Crop rotation of vegetable crops is a necessary alternation of grown plants in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row!

Crop rotation of vegetable crops is a necessary alternation of grown plants in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row! This, of course, is ideal, and not every summer resident is able to realize such a utopian picture. However, "Gardener and Gardener" will try to help you in this difficult matter.

We have prepared for you useful diagrams and tables, which you, as usual, can download from the link at the end of the article. For now, let's get to the theory.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops: a table for busy gardeners

In general, a crop rotation device is not a fast occupation and requires a certain amount of time. This is due to the fact that when alternating crops, quite a lot of factors must be taken into account: the need for a plant in nutrition, belonging to a biological family, soil contamination with pests, etc. For those who do not have enough time for long calculations and construction of schemes, we offer a quick and easy solution.

"Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting" will help you navigate the choice of a plant for a particular bed, without delving into the details. The only thing to remember when using it is that the culture can return to its original place after at least 3 to 4 years.

Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting

As you can see from this crop rotation summary table, there are the best vegetable crop predecessors, acceptable and bad:

The best predecessors of tomatoes - color and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and green manure. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, herbs, beets, cabbages of late and medium varieties. After other crops, planting tomatoes in the garden is no longer worth it.

Remarkable predecessors of cabbage are cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. And here comes the division. For late and medium varieties, early potatoes and carrots are good, and for early and cauliflower it is better to sow after green manure and onions with garlic.

Good predecessors of onions and garlic (which you do not grow for greens) are cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and green manure.

The best predecessors of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, etc. are onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early and cauliflower.

Good predecessors of peas are any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and squash.

Excellent predecessors of carrots are cabbage, potatoes, herbs and spices, zucchini and green manure.

The best predecessors of pepper and eggplant are cucumbers, onions, carrots, green manure, etc.

Good predecessors of beets are spices and herbs, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.

Remarkable predecessors of potatoes are zucchini, garlic, legumes, green manure, etc.

It seems that you managed to figure out how the table works without much difficulty. So, the “hurry-ups” leave us, and we move on.

Crop rotation of vegetables in the beds: a necessity or a whim

For those summer residents who are not limited in time, the "Gardener and Gardener" offers to "dig deeper." To begin with, let's look at objective reasons, which speak of the undoubted practical benefits and the need for crop rotation in the country.

Causes of soil fatigue:

1. Accumulation of pests and pathogens.
If you plant for a long time in the same place, for example, potatoes, then the number of wireworms will inevitably increase in this area, Colorado beetles and phytophthora pathogens. The same is true for other cultures. Growing all the time on the same beds the same vegetables, you risk getting on the same dominance onion flies, on another cabbage keel, on the third carrot fleas, etc. What can we say about root and leaf nematodes, rot and other "minor" troubles.

2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks of the need vegetable crop rotation are the inevitable toxic root secretions - colins. Many vegetables are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, then the crops will get worse and worse every year, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. So, for example, spinach and beets are most susceptible to their root secretions. Parsley, radish, radish, celery, carrots and pumpkin crops react a little easier to them. Corn, leeks and legumes are the least affected by colin. A lot of toxins remain in tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.

3. Nutritional needs.
The supply of nutrients on the site is not unlimited. Each plant has its own requirements for nutrients. Some cultures are less demanding, while others are more. Therefore, it is very important to know "who is who" in order to track the state of a particular bed. So if you plant related plants in the same place, then in a few years they will “suck out” everything necessary for growth from it, depleting the supply of some elements. As a result, productivity will drop.

All these factors together give the so-called soil fatigue. You can and should fight this. Most effective remedy- this is the crop rotation of vegetables at your dacha.

Crop rotation in the garden: the fight against soil depletion

In order for the horrors described above not to become a reality in your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and adhere to three simple rules crop rotation.

1. The rule of botany.
You should never plant not just the same plant one after another, but even related crops belonging to the same species! This is the first, most important and important.
Judge for yourself:
- Diseases and pests are most often the same. Therefore, the first reason will not be eliminated.
They also have similar toxins. Colins of one plant are processed only by cultures of another botanical species. So the second reason will remain in place.
- Nutrition and the need for trace elements in crops of the same family are also almost identical. It turns out that the third reason is not going anywhere.
Conclusion: crop rotation of vegetables within the same botanical family is useless!

2. The rule of time.
The longer the culture does not return, the better!
The minimum period after which you can return the plant to its original place is 3 years. For carrots, parsley, beets, cucumbers, it is better to increase it to 4-5 years. Cabbage, when the keel appears, can be returned only after 6-7 years. If there is an opportunity (there is enough space, many crops are grown), then feel free to increase these numbers, it will only get better.
Otherwise, the same three causes of soil fatigue will not be eliminated again.

3. The rule of fertility.
When determining the rotation order of crops in a crop rotation, remember about nutrition and about plants that help enrich the soil with the right elements.
All crops use nutrients to grow, some more, some less. Plants that are very demanding on nutrition should not be planted one after another.
Some cultures improve the fertile layer by the very fact of their growth in this place. These include almost all legumes. They not only loosen the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, plants of other species have similar qualities, in which the root system is deep, powerful and developed.
Others contain the necessary substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to be known and, if possible, laid in compost. Although this is a separate topic, we will still give a few examples.

In accordance with this rule, when drawing up the order of crop rotation in a crop rotation, we advise you to pay attention not only to botanical view and timing, but also on nutritional requirements and improved fertility. Thus:
- after each plant that is demanding on nutrition, next year it is worth planting legumes or seriously fertilizing the garden,
- after a less demanding vegetable, you can plant a more demanding one, moderately fertilizing the soil.

To make it easier to navigate when alternating crops in a crop rotation, "Gardener and Gardener" has prepared a special memo for you.

Memo: "What to consider when alternating vegetable crops in a crop rotation"

The scheme of crop rotation of vegetables in the country

Giving some options for crop rotation schemes is a waste of time. The summer cottage of each gardener is unique, which means that some standard crop rotation plans can suit few people. And it's not even about the size of the plot or the number of beds. It's just that the vegetable crops that are cultivated are different for everyone. Someone is planting a lot of cabbage different types, and someone literally 5-6 plants. Someone plants potatoes for 5 acres, while someone needs 5 square meters. meters. Someone plants many crops in a greenhouse, while someone has a greenhouse only for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more expedient for each summer resident to independently plan crop rotation and draw up individual schemes for himself.

The basic principles that should be followed are outlined above. Now let's move away from the ideal and plunge into reality. Further, "Gardener and Gardener" offers you a list of practical tips on crop rotation.

Crop rotation for suburban area: practical advice

1. Human memory is not unlimited. To remember what kind of vegetable sat on this bed five years ago is an impossible task for most summer residents. Therefore, the first advice is not to be lazy and draw up a plan of your site with all the beds in a notebook. On this plan every year you will mark the planted crops. Those who have a lot of free time can immediately mark plants that are likely to be planted a year, two or three years in advance. The rest, in order to compile a complete crop rotation map, will take 5-6 years (according to the number of average time for the return of a crop).

2. In the process of sowing, decide and write down in your notebook how much space which crop takes up for you(a third of the beds, a quarter, a half, a whole, etc.). This is necessary in order to next years could be folded suitable fit like pieces of a puzzle. After all, it is not necessary to sow the entire garden with any one crop. If you can plant cabbage and greens after onions, do so - half a bed of one, half a bed of the second. Just do not forget to make sure that the neighboring plants are compatible.

3. If you can’t change the place of a culture(well, it happens), don't despair. Just add a "neighbor" from another family to it on the bed (do not forget to check the compatibility table). So self-poisoning plants (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (Accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place quite calmly and without loss in yield up to 3 years. After all, neighbors of a different species are well processed and absorb their destructive toxins. Mixed fit works better when it's really mixed. That is, not half a bed of beets and half a bed of carrots, but a row of one, a row of another. Or better yet, fill the aisles with the same beans.

Here, perhaps, is all the information that you need to organize a correct and efficient crop rotation in the country. The table will help you quickly determine the crop to be sown. Reminder - plan everything in advance. Practical Tips- solve problems that arise in the process. Have a good harvest! published