Groundwater drainage system. Drainage at their summer cottage: the easiest way to remove excess moisture

Since we are talking about arranging a drainage system, it means that our house is already standing (designed) and we are moving on to landscaping or landscape design. I am sincerely happy for you, Lord! Exactly how glad I am to the fact that you are interested in the question: "How to optimally implement water drainage from the site and from the house?". Having dealt with this, you will save a lot of time and money.

To begin with, water drainage is a complex task and should include complementary systems:

1. Roof drainage system.
2. Surface drainage system.
3. If the groundwater level (GWL) on the site is high, and the house has, for example, a basement or underground garage, there is a need to arrange a deep drainage system to drain groundwater.

The first two systems provide for the removal of rainwater (to eliminate the negative impact of precipitation), the removal of melt water (melting snow) and, accordingly, prevent the appearance of the so-called. "overheads". Verkhovodka, along with groundwater, is a type of soil water, has a seasonal character and appears as a result of precipitation, snow melting, excessive watering, etc. As a rule, by the middle of summer it disappears altogether and can appear briefly only after heavy rains.

Verkhovodka is an unpleasant problem for houses with a foundation (basement), and is also the reason for the rapid filling of a leaky septic tank (cesspool) in the spring and during heavy rainfall.

The task of the roof drainage system is to collect all the rainwater from the roof of buildings and bring it to the right catchment points. If you save on roof drains, the rains will gradually break your paths, blind area, steps and will splash the foundation of the building with an even layer of dirt to a height of up to 50 cm.

Well, if your basement is flooded, its walls are saturated with moisture, and the septic tank needs to be pumped out every 7-10 days, you cannot do without deep drainage.

1. What is the soil structure and groundwater level (hereinafter GWL) in your area? The answer to this question will clarify the need for underground (deep) drainage and basement waterproofing, if any. The carriers of this mysterious knowledge are usually the same people who drilled your well for water or specialized geodetic organizations.
2. Where will it be done diversion of surface and ground waters? This answer will help you figure out the point of water discharge (it can be one for both surface and groundwater) and simplify the preparation of a technical solution. I am familiar with the following options:
   • Storm sewer. As a rule, this is a concrete pipe of large diameter. Ideally, it is buried below the freezing depth of the soil and equipped with collectors, i.e. connection points for individual stormwater drainage systems, for example, from your site. Storm water is drained into natural reservoirs.
   • Mixed sewer. Disposes superficial and, actually, sewer drains. Also equipped with collectors. Provides for the arrangement of wastewater treatment systems before they are discharged, for example, into water bodies.
   • Drainage field (infiltration system). Equipped in case of absence of the options indicated above. A system that provides a uniform and natural "absorption" of storm water into the ground directly at the site of their collection.
   • Neighborhood :). The easiest and fastest way, which also allows you to "get closer" to your neighbors in the shortest possible time.
3. Will the water be drained by gravity or will a drainage well and pump be needed? To do this, you need to answer the previous questions, as well as determine the slopes of the site. The discharge point should be provided at the lowest part of the site.

If your site is located on a slope and you want to drain surface water flowing from the upstream site, then to intercept water, you should provide a system of drainage trays perpendicular to the slope in the upper part of the site (then the site looks landscaped and has a flat surface) or dig a drainage ditch along the upper boundary of the site and connect it to the side ditches (the site becomes like a medieval outpost).

4. What is the area of ​​the catchment area? The throughput and, accordingly, the cost of water collection systems depends on this. Knowing the area of ​​your site, you can independently calculate the estimated flow of rainwater, which should be removed by drainage systems. Use the program for this.
5. What load (surface pressure) must withstand engineering structures for water drainage? Let me rephrase. Who will walk (ride) on them? The so-called. load class and all the same cost. The load class is important for both deep and surface drainage.

After you have answered the preparatory theoretical questions, you should take up the implementation. I strongly recommend to develop a project or just a technical solution. To do this, you should either contact the design organization (water disposal and sewerage department), or draw a sketch yourself .... and find an imperturbable builder who will undertake to bring it to life.

Ask and delve into the details! Builders in most cases install a gutter system to drain water from the roof, but they do not consider it necessary to divert this water far from the foundation. I know of cases when a contractor installed storm water inlets, but "discharged" the collected water through the bottom of the same storm water inlets into the ground near the foundation. In this case, there is no fundamental difference between if the water simply drains from the roof and wets the foundation, or flows through the drainage system (collects in a storm water inlet) and ... wets the foundation. The soil adjacent to the foundation, after construction work, is usually looser than the soil of natural composition, so rainwater accumulates in the sinuses and penetrates into the concrete. In winter, water freezes and destroys concrete structures.

Therefore, in addition to arranging a blind area around the house with a width of 80-100 cm, the water collected by the drainage system must be diverted to the storm sewer. This can be done with a system of drainage trays (Fig. 1) or a device with point storm water inlets (Fig. 2).

In the first case, we have less earthwork, the system will always be available for inspection and repair. In the second case, we can lay the pipe from the storm water inlets in the same trench with the drainage pipe.

In this case, in no case should the surface drainage system be connected to the drainage of the base of the house. Otherwise, rainwater will fall into the drainage and vice versa - wet the foundation!!!

From above, sand traps and drainage channels are closed with removable protective and decorative gratings that prevent debris, leaves from entering the system and do not impede the movement of pedestrians and vehicles. The linear drainage system is connected to the storm sewer through a system of vertical and horizontal outlets.

Important!!! When installing a surface drainage system, slopes (minimum 0.005, i.e. 5 mm per meter of length) must be provided for the movement of water by gravity! This can be done in two ways:

1. By using the slope of the surface.
2. Due to the use of channels, which have an inner surface with a slope (this function is provided in the concrete channels of some manufacturers: Standartpark, Hauraton, ACO), as well as due to a stepped slope organized using channels of different heights.

It is most expedient to combine the arrangement of an underground drainage system with foundation work - it will not cost much. If, during the operation of the house, it turns out that the groundwater level is very high, and the drainage of water from the house is not organized, this will cost you a pretty penny.

underground drainage- this is a system of drainage pipes (drains, i.e. pipes with holes, covered with rubble and wrapped in geotextiles) and drainage wells. Geotextile protects drains from silting.

Drainage wells are designed for maintenance of the drainage system, such as cleaning with a jet of water. A drainage well is provided at every second bend of the pipe, so that both the inlet and outlet sections of the pipes can be serviced through it.

The wells are assembled from concrete rings with a diameter of 400 mm and 700 mm. Recently, ready-made plastic wells with a diameter of 315 mm are increasingly used.

The water collected by the drainage pipes enters the collector well (water collected by the surface drainage can also be supplied here), equipped with a check valve that prevents water from the well from flowing back into the drainage system. From a common well, water is removed (for example, pumped out) into a communal storm sewer, an open drain, or it is absorbed into the soil through a specially poured layer of rubble (drainage field).

Well, in general, enough for the first time (especially if you do not have a special education). Conclusion: The arrangement of surface, and if necessary, deep drainage is a feasible task, but ... if in doubt, entrust it to professionals. If you are going to secure basements, foundations, etc., and are faced with perched water (groundwater), then due to the complexity and complexity of the task, I advise you to choose one contractor who will be responsible for the development and installation of the entire system as a whole. This is important because individual works performed by different contractors, as a rule, do not solve the problem as a whole, and the contractor always has the opportunity to say: “It's not me!”. Try to negotiate a warranty on drainage systems for at least a year. Only a full season will prove their viability!

Since you are paying money, do not entrust such a difficult task, for example, to tilers who pave paths for you! They can be performers - but they must be led by a professional.

Vladimir Polevoy.

A clean and dry yard after rain, no puddles on the lawn and no washed-out beds, healthy plants and perfectly smooth paths are the result of competent planning and installation of surface drainage. It is difficult to achieve such a result on your own without impressive expenses, but it is realistic if you make storm drainage with your own hands to drain the surface and remove rainwater. In combination with a storm drain (a system for draining water from the roof), the drainage network will also reduce the amount of moisture penetrating into the deep layers of the soil - the load on the deep foundation drainage network will decrease.

It is worth planning the layout of drainage networks and storm water even before the start of construction. Foundation protection in the form of a wall system is easier to install if the foundation pit is not filled up. While the construction is going on and there is equipment on the site, it is advisable to order the digging of trenches so as not to dig manually and not to carry dirt in the improved area. Protection against melt and rain water is:

Stormwater and drainage around the perimeter of the house

• Surface linear storm drainage - collection and drainage of rainwater from the ground surface.

• Storm sewer - drainage of water flowing down drainpipes.

• Point drainage - drainage of local areas with problematic natural outflow.

Scheme for removing moisture from the surface: drainage system

Storm sewer network

The storm sewer network is equipped with an outlet to a common highway, if there is a sewer or city stormwater pipe nearby. In the case when the branches of the city network are located at a great distance, the output of the local drainage system and storm sewer is organized in 2 ways: to the filtration field (a section covered with crushed stone to drain moisture into the ground), or to a receiving tank (drainage well, reservoir, roadside ditch) . Draining from a private storm drain into the public domestic sewer system is prohibited.

System elements:

• Drainage gutters that are mounted along the edge of the roof slopes.
• Water pipes.
• Water intake tanks.

Receiving tank with outlet

• External sewer pipes that are connected to water intake tanks.

The containers are mounted under the outlet of the drainpipe, the pipe is connected to the sewer pipe. Pipes are dug in at an angle to the drain.

Drainage: features of a surface storm system

The drainage system of the surface of the site consists of point and linear branch branches connected into one network with an outlet to the water intake. Storm drainage on the site is equipped in the form of open channels, dug under a slope to the drain site. Marking is performed only after studying the direction of natural outflow during heavy rain. Be sure to form drainage lines:

Drainage network: point catchers and storm trenches

• Along the perimeter of the site.

• On slopes and on sites in natural depressions.

Drainage branches on the slope

• Around the tracks.

Storm drainage around the house is a line of trenches laid along the blind area around the entire perimeter of the buildings. To drain the tiled yard, channels are formed at the entrance to the garage, near the porch, steps.

Point drainage outlets are dug in in places where there is no need to lay drainage channels: under watering taps, near the outlet of downpipes (in areas where there is no storm sewer). Drainage from point drainage wells is discharged into the outlet pipe of the general surface network.

Integration: is it possible to combine storm water with a drainage network

Two separate networks: drainage and storm water

The optimal scheme for draining the site with the house is separate drainage and stormwater networks around the house. It is undesirable to connect linear channels with sewers: during heavy rains or rapid snow melting, one pipe may not be able to cope and overflow through water inlets will occur.

It is advisable to connect stormwater and drainage in one trench only in one case: if the trench is dug under the outlet from the point drainage and sewer rather than perforated pipes are used. The pipes are laid parallel along the bottom of the concreted trench. It is impossible to lay a sealed sewer pipe in a channel with drainage backfill: the diameter of the pipe will reduce the usable volume of the ditch and create difficulties in cleaning the trench.

General outlet of point drainage and storm water to the filtration tunnel

Instead of trying to connect stormwater and linear drainage in one pipe, it is better to make a common receiver, especially if you cannot make a tie-in into a city highway. Rainwater can be used to irrigate or fill artificial reservoirs. Plastic tanks are installed as a receiver, or wells are made without a bottom - to drain the incoming liquid into the ground.

How to make storm drainage of the site and around a country house

Storm drainage is a surface system that does not require extensive earthworks and digging deep trenches, so you can do a simple wiring with your own hands. Before starting work, the places of mandatory arrangement of lines and water collection points are determined, and the drainage trajectory is planned. It is possible to detect all places where natural outflow is not enough during heavy rainfall and after the snow melts. It also requires the installation of a branched linear storm drainage area with clayey, moisture-saturated soil that does not absorb water from the surface.

For preliminary calculations of the amount of materials needed, it is worth drawing a diagram of the channels on the site plan.

Storm drain installation plan

Materials: what you need to install a storm drainage network

The list of materials that are needed for an independent device for storm drainage of the site and installation of the system around the perimeter of the house:

• Trays (gutters) for installation around the foundation. Production materials - plastic, polymer concrete mix, concrete. Plastic channels are installed in areas where there is minimal physical impact on the gratings: along the edges of the lawn, in flower beds. Concrete gutters are strong and durable. Such a tray can withstand loads up to 25 tons. They are installed in places of increased loads: in yards where there is constant traffic, on access roads. Protective gratings are also chosen: metal and cast iron - for areas with heavy traffic, decorative plastic - for the lawn, garden.

• Connecting elements, spacers, bases. Auxiliary materials that the manufacturer recommends using when assembling channels. Be sure to install spacers inside the plastic trays.
• Sand traps. Separately, they buy products for installation in a linear system and for installation in storm water inlets.

On the walls - preparation for pipe removal

• Storm water inlets. Predominantly ready-made plastic containers are used. The outer walls are equipped with preparation for connection with a branch. Plastic receivers are easy to install on top of each other - you can assemble a container of any height.

Containers with basket and attachments

• Geotextile. Cloth for drainage filling channels not equipped with gutters.

Synthetic waterproof fabric

1. Crushed stone, sand. The crushed stone fraction is medium and large.
2. Mortar for pouring the base under the gutters and water inlets.
3. Drainage wells. Ready-made plastic or corrugated pipe of large diameter.

Factory PVC drainage wells

• Pipes for external sewerage with fittings.
• Construction tool. You will need draft boards for formwork in the channels, pegs and line for marking, shovels, picks, building level.

Installation of point water inlets

Point water inlets - stormwater and drainage elements installed under the outlet of drains. It is necessary to plan the installation so that the flow from the drain falls exactly in the center of the grate.

The edge of the well should be flush with the decorative coating

The dimensions of the pit for installing the container are determined by the height of the receiver, adding up to 30 - 40 cm for bedding and base. There should be a gap of up to 5 cm along the perimeter on each side. Dig a recess, level the walls and bottom. Be sure to check the horizontality of the bottom and the angle so that the container does not move during installation.

Checking horizontal level

A dense ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand is formed at the bottom. A layer of crushed stone up to 25 cm high is laid on a sand cushion. It is advisable to fill the bottom with concrete mortar. The poured base is left for several days until it hardens completely, or the container is fixed in a fresh solution (if necessary, fixed fixation).

A storm water inlet is installed on a concrete base so that the container lid is flush with the blind area. If the installation is carried out before laying the decorative coating, then leave the free edge of the well above the ground to the height of the tile or stone.

Proper receiver installation

Side gaps are covered with rubble or poured with concrete. Before backfilling, a pipe outlet fitting is connected to the outlet. Install internal parts: basket, partitions, fix the lid.

Arrangement of an open storm system around the foundation

Drainage of storm water along the perimeter of the building can be planned as a ring closed at the collection point, without revision wells. For cleaning, collapsible sand traps are provided. Rules for the device of a linear system:

• The indent from the edge of the foundation should be from 50 cm. Optimally, plan the channels along the edge of the tracks or blind area.

Trays - along the edge of the blind area with a margin for paving slabs

• The depth of the channels is determined by the height of the tray with a decorative cover with the addition of the height of the bulk layer - up to 40 cm.

• Width - up to 50 cm.

To prevent the installed gutters from shifting and deforming over time, you need to follow a few rules during earthworks. The bottom, the walls should be even and solid. At the bottom, a standard sand cushion and crushed stone bedding are necessarily made.

Plastic tray installed on the factory stand

So that the tray (especially plastic) does not deform, it is better to make a concrete base for installation. The thickness of the concrete layer is 5 cm.

Laying the gutter on the mortar

Gutters are installed in prepared trenches. The structures are interconnected with special locks. The extreme points (at the beginning and at the end of the line) are closed with plastic or metal plugs. If plastic gutters are used, factory spacers are installed inside.

Sand trap in the drain line

The gaps between the trays and the walls of the trench are covered with rubble, or concreted. On long sections, sand traps are installed - in-depth trays with a mechanical filter. At the installation sites, outlet pipes are connected to the sand traps. Trenches for discharge pipes are dug at an angle.

Budgetary storm drainage of the site: building open channels

It is also possible to drain rainwater from garden paths, flower beds and along the fence in an economical open way. Instead of ready-made trays, storm drainage filling channels are equipped. Trenches are dug along the planned lines. Depth - from 50 cm, width - from 50 - 60 cm.

Instead of gutters - backfill trench

The branch is formed with a slope towards the receiving tank. The walls are at an angle to the bottom to reduce the pressure of flowing water. The bottom is filled with sand. Check the correct slope. For one meter - up to 3 cm height difference.

Pipe in crushed stone backfill

Geotextiles are laid on the sand layer. The edges are left free. Over the entire width of the trench, crushed stone is covered with a layer of up to 30 cm. A system with a perforated drainage pipe inside the crushed stone backfill will be more durable. Wrap the edges of the canvas with an overlap.

Dry stream with decorative backfill - a beautiful drainage line

From above, the drainage clip is covered with decorative material: river pebbles, multi-colored chips, stone. Dry streams are an aesthetic and economical solution.

Drainage well and drain outlet

The drainage well is the connection point of the system. With a moderate amount of water and good water-absorbing characteristics of the soil, the drainage tank is installed on a crushed stone pillow. Through a well without a bottom, water penetrates the soil.

Drainage well with filling bottom

If the installation of a filter well is not possible, then liquid is drained from the drainage tank into a common storm main or taken out of the site - into a natural reservoir, moat. The outlet from the well can be connected to a pond or a receiving tank dug in the area.

Video: installation of stormwater around the house

Stormwater and linear open drainage are only the surface part of the foundation protection. Along the perimeter of buildings at different depths, it is necessary to create 3-4 types of drainage systems. The choice of the method of organizing and technical parameters of networks depends on the composition of the soil, the depth of the foundation. Doing deep drainage networks on your own is not worth it. Calculations should be done by specialists, and the installation of trench branches is best done immediately after pouring the foundation. Even before the start of construction, a reservoir deep drainage system is being equipped. Not only the ability of the system to drain water in large quantities, but also the durability of the foundation depends on the accuracy of the calculations.

Erected in accordance with all the rules, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and in compliance with the construction technology, then only soil and ground moisture will pose a danger to its strength and durability. The integrity of the foundation of the house can be compromised by rain and melt water entering the soil and not being able to be taken care of in time due to the seasonal rise in groundwater levels, or if they pass close to the surface.

As a result of such waterlogging of the soil near the foundation, the details of its structure become damp, and undesirable processes of corrosion and erosion may well begin in them. In addition, dampness is always a prerequisite for damage to building structures by a fungus or other representatives of harmful microflora. Fungal colonies on the walls of the premises quickly capture the territory, spoiling the finish and negatively affecting the health of the residents of the house.

These problems need to be addressed at the design and construction stage of the building. The main measures are the creation of reliable waterproofing of structural elements and properly organized water drainage from the foundation of the house. About waterproofing - a special conversation, but the water drainage system requires careful calculations, the selection of appropriate materials and components - fortunately, they are now presented in a wide range in specialized stores.

The main ways to drain water from the foundation of a building

To protect the base of the house from atmospheric and ground moisture, various structures are used, which are usually combined into one system. This includes blind areas around the perimeter of the house, storm sewers with a roof drainage system included in it, a complex of rain inlets, horizontal drainage with a set of transport pipes, revision and storage wells and collectors. To understand what these systems are, we can consider them in more detail.

• blind area

The blind areas around the perimeter of the house can be called an indispensable element for draining rain and melt water from the foundation. In combination with a roof gutter system, they are able to effectively protect the foundation of the house even without arranging a complex storm sewer, if the amount of seasonal precipitation in the region is not critical, and groundwater flows deep from the surface.

Blinds are made from different materials. As a rule, their placement is planned with a slope at an angle of 10 ÷ 15 degrees from the wall of the house, so that water flows freely into the soil or storm sewer gutters. The blind areas are located around the entire perimeter of the building, while taking into account that they should have a width of 250 ÷ 300 mm more than the protruding cornice or gable roof overhang. In addition to good waterproofing, the blind area is also assigned the function of an external horizontal boundary for the insulation of the foundation.

Construction of blind areas - how to do it right?

If everything is done "in the mind" - then this is a very difficult task. It is necessary to thoroughly understand the design, to know which materials will be optimal for specific construction conditions. With all the necessary details, the process is described in a special publication of our portal.

• Storm sewer with drainage system

A drainage system is required for every building. Its absence or incorrect layout leads to the fact that melt and rain water will fall on the walls, penetrate to the base of the house, gradually washing away the foundation.

Water from the drainage system should be diverted as far as possible from the base of the house. For this purpose, a number of devices and elements of storm sewers of one type or another are used - storm water inlets, open gutters or pipes hidden under the earth, sand traps, filters, revision and storage wells, collectors, storage tanks and others.

Roof drainage systems - we mount it ourselves

Without a properly organized collection of water from a considerable area of ​​​​the roof, talking about the effective removal of water from the foundation is simply ridiculous. How to correctly calculate, choose and on the roof - all this is described in a special publication of our portal.

• Drainage wells

Drainage wells as independent, autonomous elements of the water drainage system are usually used in the arrangement of baths or summer kitchens that are not connected to the domestic sewerage system.

To build such a well, you can use a metal or plastic barrel with perforated walls. This container is installed in a pit dug for it, and then filled with rubble or broken stone. The sewage system of the bath is connected to the well with a gutter or pipe, through which water will be drained from the foundation.

This system, obviously, is extremely imperfect, and in no case should it be combined with storm sewers, since in case of heavy rain, a quick overflow with a spill of sewage is not ruled out, which, of course, is not very pleasant. Nevertheless, in the conditions of country construction, it is resorted to quite often.

• drainage system

The arrangement of a full-fledged drainage system in conjunction with storm sewers is a very responsible and time-consuming process that requires considerable material investments. However, in many cases it is impossible to do without it.

For this system to work effectively, it is necessary to carry out careful engineering calculations, which are most often trusted by specialists.

Storm sewer prices

storm sewer

Since this is the most complex, but at the same time the most effective option for draining water from the base of the building, and can be done in different ways, it needs to be considered in more detail.

Drainage system around the house

Is a drainage system always necessary?

By and large, it is highly desirable that drainage be provided around any building. However, in some cases, a water drainage system is simply vital, since there are a number of objective reasons for this, which include:

• Groundwater is located between the layers of soil close to the surface.
• Very significant amplitudes of seasonal groundwater rises are noted.
• The house is located in close proximity to a natural reservoir.
• The construction site is dominated by clay or loamy soils, wetlands or peat bogs saturated with organic matter.
• The site is located on a hilly area in a lowland, where melt or rainwater can obviously collect.

In some cases, it is possible to abandon the arrangement of the drainage system, bypassing the blind areas and properly organized. So, there is no urgent need for a full-fledged drainage circuit in the following situations:

• The foundation of the building is built on sandy, coarse or rocky soil.
• Ground water passes below the floor level of the basement by at least 500 mm.
• The house is installed on a hill where melt and rain water never collects.
• The house is being built away from water bodies.

This does not mean that such a system is not needed at all in these cases. It's just that its scale and overall performance may be smaller - but this should already be determined on the basis of special engineering calculations.

Varieties of drainage systems

There are several types of drainage systems that are designed to remove moisture of various nature. Therefore, the choice is made on the basis of pre-engineering and geological studies, which determine which of the options are most suitable for a particular site.

Drainage can be divided into the following types according to the area of ​​application: internal, external and reservoir. Quite often, all varieties are installed, for example, an internal drainage option is used to drain groundwater from the basement, and an external one for soil.

• Reservoir drainage is almost always used - it is arranged under the entire structure and is a sand, crushed stone or gravel "cushion" of different thicknesses, mainly 100÷120 mm. The use of such drainage is especially important if groundwater is located high enough to the floor surface of the basement.

• The external drainage system is mounted at a certain depth or placed superficially along the walls of the building and on the territory of the site, and is a set of trenches or perforated pipes that are mounted with a slope towards the catchment tank. Through these channels, water is discharged into a drainage well.
• Internal drainage is a system of perforated pipes that are laid under the floor of the basement of the house, and, if necessary, directly under the foundation of the entire house, and lead to a drainage well.

External drainage system

The external drainage system is divided into open and closed.

The open part, in fact, is a system for collecting storm or melt water from the gutter system of the roof and from concreted, asphalted or paved areas of the territory. The collection system can be linear - with surface extended trays, for example, along the outer line of blind areas or along the edges of paths and platforms, or point - with storm water inlets connected to each other and to wells (collectors) by an underground pipe system.

The closed drainage system includes perforated pipes buried in the ground to a depth determined by the project. Very often, open (stormwater) and closed (underground drainage) systems are combined into one and used in combination. In this case, the drainage contours of the pipes are located below the storm ones - the drainage, as it were, "cleans up" what the "storm drain" could not cope with. And their storage well or collector may well be combined.

Closed drainage system

Starting to talk about the installation work on the arrangement of the drainage system, first of all, you need to say what materials will be required for this process, so that you can immediately determine the required amount.

So, to install a closed drainage system, the following are used:

• Bulk building materials - sand, crushed stone, coarse gravel or expanded clay.
• Geotextile (dornite).
• Corrugated PVC pipes for installation of collector wells, with a diameter of 315 or 425 mm. Wells are installed at all points of change of direction (at the corners), and on straight sections - with a step of 20÷30 meters. The height of the well will depend on the depth of the drainage pipes.
• Perforated PVC drainage pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, as well as connecting parts to them: tees, corner fittings, couplings, adapters, etc.
• Capacity for arranging a storage well.

The quantity of all necessary elements and materials is calculated in advance according to the draft water drainage system.

In order not to be mistaken in the choice of pipes, it is necessary to say a few words about them.

It is clear that drainage pipes are not used to drain rainwater, since through the holes water will fall under the blind area or to the foundation. Therefore, perforated pipes are installed only in closed drainage systems that drain groundwater from the structure.

In addition to PVC pipes, drainage systems are also assembled from ceramic or asbestos concrete pipes, but they do not have factory perforations, therefore, in this case, they are non-functional. The holes in them will have to be drilled on their own, which takes a lot of time and effort.

Corrugated perforated PVC pipes are the best option, as they have a small mass, pronounced flexibility, and are easily assembled into a single system. In addition, the presence of ready-made holes in the walls allows you to optimize the volume of incoming water. In addition to flexible PVC pipes, on sale you can find rigid options that have a smooth inner and corrugated outer surface.

PVC drainage pipes are classified according to their strength level, they are marked with letters SN and digital from 2 to 16. For example, SN2 products are only suitable for contours at a depth not exceeding 2 meters. With a depth of 2 to 3 meters, models marked SN4 will already be required. At a depth of four meters, it is better to place SN6, but SN8, if necessary, can cope with depths up to 10 meters.

Rigid pipes are available in lengths of 6 or 12 meters, depending on the diameter, while flexible pipes are sold in coils up to 50 meters.

A very successful purchase will be pipes on which a filter layer is already provided on top. In this capacity, geotextiles are used (more suitable for sandy soils) or coconut fibers (they show their effectiveness well on clay soil layers). These materials reliably prevent the rapid creation of blockages in the narrow openings of perforated pipes.

The assembly of pipes into a common system does not require any special tools or devices - the sections are joined manually using special couplings or fittings, depending on the model. For tightness of connections in products special rubber sealants are provided.

Before proceeding to the description of installation work, it must be clarified that drainage pipes are always laid below the freezing depth of the soil.

Installation of a closed drainage system

Starting the description of the arrangement of the drainage system, it is necessary to mention and clearly imagine the fact that it can be laid not only around the house, but also throughout the site, if it is very wet and requires constant drying.

Prices for geotextiles

geotextile

Installation work is carried out according to a pre-compiled project, which is developed taking into account all the parameters necessary for the normal functioning of the system.

Schematically, the location of the drainage pipe looks like this illustration.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	First of all, according to the dimensions indicated on the project, the marking of the passage of drainage channels is done on the territory of the site. If it is required to divert water only from the foundation of the house, then the drainage pipe is often placed at a distance of about 1000 mm from the blind area. The width of the trench for the drainage channel should be 350÷400 mm.
	The next step, according to the markings, trenches are dug around the perimeter of the whole house. Their depth should also be calculated on the basis of data obtained from soil surveys. Trenches are dug with a slope of 10 mm each linear meter of length towards the drainage well. In addition, it is good to provide for a small slope of the bottom of the trench from the walls of the foundation. Further, the bottom of the trench must be well tamped, and then a sand cushion 80 ÷ 100 mm thick should be laid on it. The sand is spilled with water and also compacted with a manual rammer, in compliance with the previously formed longitudinal and transverse slopes of the trench bottom.
	In the course of arranging the drainage of the foundation of a built house, obstacles in the form of floor slabs may arise in the path of the trench. It is impossible to leave such areas without a drainage channel, otherwise moisture, having no way out, will accumulate in these areas. Therefore, under the slab, it will be necessary to carefully dig a tunnel so that the pipe is laid continuously along the wall (so that the ring closes).
	In addition to the remote drainage system, in some cases, a wall-mounted version of the channel for water drainage is equipped. It is relevant if the house has a basement or basement floor, under which an internal drainage system was not installed during the construction of the house. The trench is dug deep below the basement floor, without a large indentation from the foundation wall, which needs to be additionally covered with bitumen-based waterproofing material. The rest of the work is similar to those that will be carried out when laying pipes passing at a meter distance from the wall.
	The next step is to lay the geotextile in the trench. If the trench has a great depth, and the width of the canvas is not enough, then it is cut and laid across the pit. The canvases are stacked on top of each other by 150 mm, and then glued together with waterproof tape. Geotextiles are temporarily fixed along the upper edges of the trench with stones or other weights. When arranging wall drainage, one edge of the canvas is temporarily fixed on the wall surface.
	Further, at the bottom of the trench, on top of the geotextile, a layer of sand is poured, 50 mm thick, and then a layer of crushed stone of an average fraction of 100 mm. The embankment is evenly distributed along the bottom of the trench, while you need to make sure that the slope laid earlier is observed.
	In order to insert a sleeve into the corrugated pipe of a plastic drainage well, a diameter is outlined on it, and then, with a sharp knife, a marked area is cut out. The coupling should stand tightly in the hole and protrude into the well by 120 ÷ 150 mm.
	On top of the embankment made in the trenches, drainage pipes are laid and, according to the project, manholes are installed, to the couplings of which pipes intersecting at a given point are docked.
	After completing the installation of pipes and wells, the design of the drainage circuit should look something like the one shown in the illustration.
	The next step is to fill the top of the drainage pipes and around the wells with coarse gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction. The thickness of the embankment above the top of the pipe should be between 100 mm and 250 mm.
	Further, the edges of the geotextile, fixed on the walls of the trench, are released, and then the entire resulting “ply structure” is closed from above.
	On the rolled geotextile, which completely covered the filter layer of crushed stone or gravel, a sand backfill is made, 150 ÷ ​​200 mm thick, which needs to be slightly compacted. This layer will become an additional protection of the system against subsidence of the soil, which is poured into the trench with the last top layer and also compacted. You can do it differently: before digging the trench, the sod layer is carefully removed from the ground, and after the installation work is completed, the sod returns to its place, and the green lawn is again pleasing to the eye.
	When equipping the drainage system, it must be remembered that all the pipes that make it up must have a slope to the inspection, and then to the storage well or collector, which is installed at a distance from the house. If the drainage option of the water intake is being equipped, then it is completely or its bottom part is covered with coarse gravel, crushed stone or broken stone.
	If you want to completely disguise the covers of inspection, drainage or storage wells, you can use decorative garden elements. They can imitate round logs or a stone boulder that adorns the landscape.

Storm and melt water drainage

Features of storm sewers

An external drainage system is sometimes called an open drainage system, referring to its purpose for draining rainwater from a drain on the roof and from the surface of the site. Probably, it would still be correct to call it a storm sewer. By the way, if it is assembled according to the point principle, then it can also be hidden.

It seems to be easier to install such a water drainage system than in-depth drainage, since less excavation will be required during installation. On the other hand, elements of external design become important, which also requires certain costs and extra efforts.

There is another important difference. The drainage system is designed, as a rule, for constant “smooth” operation - if seasonal changes in the saturation of the soil with moisture occur, then they are not so critical. Storm sewerage should be able to very quickly, within literally minutes, divert large volumes of water into collectors and wells. Therefore, increased demands are placed on its performance. And this performance is ensured by properly selected sections of pipes (or gutters - with a linear scheme) and the slope of their installation for the free flow of water.

When designing storm sewers, the territory is usually divided into water collection areas - one or more storm water inlets are responsible for each area. A separate section is always the roof of a house or other buildings. They try to group the remaining fates according to similar external conditions - the outer coating, since each of them has special characteristics of water absorption. So, from the roof you have to collect all 100% of the fallen volume of storm water, and from the territory - depending on the coverage of a particular area.

For each plot, according to its area, the average statistical water collection is calculated by the formulas - it is based on the coefficient q20, which shows the average rainfall intensity for each specific region.

Knowing the required volume of water drainage from a particular area, it is easy to determine the nominal diameter of the pipe and the required slope angle from the table.

Hydraulic section of pipes or trays	DN 110	DN 150	DN 200	Slope (%)
The volume of collected water (Qsb), liters per minute	3.9	12.2	29.8	0.3
-"-	5	15.75	38.5	0,3 - 0,5
-"-	7	22.3	54.5	0,5 - 1,0
-"-	8.7	27.3	66.7	1,0 - 1,5
-"-	10	31.5	77	1,5 - 2,0

In order not to torment the reader with formulas and calculations, we will entrust this matter to a special online calculator. It is necessary to indicate the mentioned coefficient, the area of ​​the site and the nature of its coverage. The result will be obtained in liters per second, liters per minute and cubic meters per hour.

surface water- which enter the site as a result of rains or streams permanently located on the site.

Ground- which are constantly underground at some level from the surface of the earth.

The groundwater level varies with the seasons. Groundwater is closest to the earth's surface in autumn and spring.

To drain surface water from the construction site, a system of drainage ditches (cuvettes) is arranged. The ditches are given slopes that ensure the drainage of water in a given direction.

Groundwater from the construction site can be diverted temporarily or permanently.

1. Temporary challenge consists in lowering the level of groundwater, as a rule, below the foundations (only for the duration of the work).

Dewatering is carried out using special installations - a system of wellpoints (pipe cuts of small diameter, pointed at the bottom and having holes in the walls), which are installed every 1.5 - 2m around the entire perimeter of the building. The wellpoints are connected by a common pipeline to which the pumps are connected.

2. Permanent retraction arrange with drainage.

Drainage- is a system of trenches located on the side of water inflow or along the perimeter of the structure.

The depth of the trenches is taken such that the bottom of the trench is slightly below the required groundwater level.

Groundwater, filtering through the soil, enters the gravel layer. A large number of voids in such a layer contributes to the further movement of water. Instead of gravel, can be laid on the bottom of the pipe.

Soil strengthening.

Soils are strengthened in various ways.

1. Cementing - used in sandy soils. A cement mortar is pumped into the soil through wellpoints, which sets with sand to form a waterproof base.

2. Silicization - used in loamy and clay soils. Solutions of calcium chloride and sodium silicate are alternately pumped into the soil, which, interacting with the soil, form solid foundations.

3. Bitumization - used in wet sandy soils. Molten bitumen is pumped into the soil. It squeezes moisture out of the soil, and solidifying makes the soil more durable.

4. Roasting - used in various soils. At the ends of the wellpoints there is a bowl in which fuel is burned. With the help of a compressor, compressed air is supplied, which pumps hot gas into the ground. Under the action of high temperature, the soil is sintered and hardened.

Questions for the test on the "Fundamentals of construction production"

1. The history of the development of building production.

2. Features of construction production in the Republic of Belarus. The role of construction production in the formation of a civil engineer.

3. Types of construction.

4. Construction work and organization of labor. General provisions.

5. Construction workers and their training.

6. Technical regulation and legislation in the construction industry.

7. Composition and content of normative and technical documentation.

8. Labor and environmental protection in the construction industry.

9. Buildings and structures. Types and classification.

10. The main structural elements of buildings.

11. Basic building materials.

12. Quality management of construction works.

13. Organizational and technical preparation for construction.

14. Types of technical documentation.

15. Technological maps and maps of labor processes.

16. General information about soils and land structures.

17. Organization of the construction site. General information about the methods of production of works.

18. Transport processes.

19. Requirements for design solutions.

20. Protection of structures from ground and atmospheric moisture.

21. Safety precautions in the production of waterproofing works.

Roof and surface drainage systems are interconnected.

They involve the organization of the discharge of water resulting from precipitation (rain, fog) and melting snow.

If they are not diverted, then sooner or later, a special type of soil water will appear on the site - perched water.

System arrangement

The organization of drainage at the site includes a set of works that provide for the arrangement of a number of systems:

• roofing;
• superficial;
• drainage (required when the house has a basement, basements or a garage with a viewing hole, and the groundwater level (hereinafter - GWL) in this area is high).

Despite the seasonal nature (it manifests itself mainly in spring and late autumn, during the period of intense rains), it can cause significant damage to the building structure.

• floods basements,
• viewing holes,
• leads to deformation of the floors.

Because of the leadership of the owners private houses have to spend more money on cleaning cesspools and septic tanks.

Organization of drainage from the roof

The purpose of the roof drainage system is to collect rain and melt water from roofs and transport it to accumulation points (separate tanks or ordinary buckets).

It consists of transverse chutes and vertical pipes with outlet funnels. Depending on the cross section of the pipes (), rectangular and round drainage systems are distinguished.

The latter have a large throughput and are usually installed at industrial facilities and multi-storey buildings.

Gutters and pipes for draining water from a roof are made of galvanized metal. It is practical, lightweight, durable and at the same time, inexpensive material.

It is not advisable to save on a gutter system for a roof. Without it, showers will gradually destroy the blind area, slabs, steps, and the walls of the house will be constantly spattered with mud.

surface drainage

The main function of this system is to protect the foundation and floors from the destructive effects of precipitation accumulating on the surface.

In its absence, the foundation will “float” within a few years after the building is put into operation, and the asphalt or paving stones will crack.

When laying a surface drainage system, various factors are taken into account:

• relief;
• soil composition;
• vibration loads on the ground;
• estimated volumes of water to be diverted, etc.

According to functionality, a linear and a point system for draining water from the surface of the site.

The first one accumulates and removes precipitation from extended areas, and the point one collects water in separate tanks related to storm sewers.

Materials for such systems are:

• concrete and polymer concrete;
• plastic;
• fiberglass.

The main classifying criteria for such systems are the throughput of pipes (the volume of water discharged per unit of time) and the load class.

The minimum load class (A-C) for plastic pipelines, the maximum, F (up to 90 tons) - for polymer concrete.

reset point

Before proceeding with the design and arrangement of roofing and surface drainage systems, it is necessary to determine the point of discharge of the total volume of water.

Depending on the location of the site and nearby infrastructure, these can be:

• natural reservoirs;
• sewer collectors;
• drainage field (several shallow pits where water accumulates and subsequently evenly soaks into the ground).

The drainage system is designed in such a way so that the reset point is at the bottom of the parcel.

If there is no slope, and the volumes of discharged effluents are large, you will need a drainage well (how to clean it from silt is written) with a pump.

If the building and the adjoining territory are located on a hill, everything is solved more simply - drainage trays leading to the drainage ditch are extended from them to the discharge point.

A common mistake many homeowners make is to set up a reset point in close proximity to the foundation.

They spend money to install storm water inlets on the roof, but all the water is dumped on the ground right below them. In this case, it makes no difference whether there is a drainage system or not, because. precipitation, gathering under the walls of the house, heats the foundation.

Water accumulates in the ground "bosoms" and with the onset of frost turns into ice. Expanding, it destroys concrete floors.

Therefore, the precipitation caught by the system must be drained either into a special tray or into a storm water inlet.

It is impossible to combine surface drainage with an underground drainage system, because. during heavy rainfall, precipitation will move in the opposite direction and heat the foundation.

Underground drainage on site

Surface drainage systems cannot provide sufficient drainage of areas with high GWL.

In such cases, underground or deep drainage is equipped.

It consists of multiple ditches below ground level.

It is carried out along the perimeter of the entire land plot, including buildings.

That is why it is advantageous to combine the arrangement of deep drainage with work on pouring the foundation. Laying ditches under an already erected house will cost much more.

The more extensive the network of drainage ditches, the more effective the fight against perched water will be. The arrangement of underground drainage under the building consists of several stages.

trench digging in which drainage pipes () will be laid, around the entire perimeter of the building.

They dig not end-to-end, but at a distance of 1 m from the foundation, with a slight slope in the direction of effluent discharge.

Their depth should match the depth of the foundation. The trenches are lined with a uniform layer of sand or fine gravel and compacted.

Laying pavement from a special material - geolatex.

Its structure freely passes water, but retains particles of organic matter, so that the drainage is not clogged with silt.

The edges of the lining are fixed to the walls of the trenches.

It turns out a kind of bag wrapped around the drainage pipe.

Strengthening the system. A layer of gravel is poured on top of the trench, compacted and leveled, while the slope for water discharge is observed.

Laying drainage pipes in prepared trenches and backfilling the entire system with coarse sand.

In places where drainage trenches turn so-called. revision wells (read which one to buy for drainage) - vertical tanks up to the very surface.

They are closed with hatches and serve to flush the deep drainage system in case of clogging (a special high-pressure apparatus is used for this).

Make a drain system on your site is not the most difficult, it is much more difficult to find where to dump this water.

If there is no unified drainage system in the village, you will need to make a drainage well into which drainage pipes will be led out (it is written about sewer corrugated pipes for external sewage on the page).

In such a well () from a small area, both storm water and drainage water can be collected, and two separate wells are made on a large one.

Sometimes, it happens, you are lucky, and after a few rings you can stumble upon a layer of sand. Then all the water that got into, will go into the sand.

If there is no sand, you will have to pump out excess water with a drainage pump, for which you will need to supply electricity.

It is even better to use two pumps (one standby), because in heavy rain one may not be able to cope and the well will overflow.

To absorb a small amount of water, you can use this method.

1. A hole is dug in the soil with a volume, for example, a cubic meter, or half a cubic meter.
2. Its walls are covered with geofabric.
3. The pit is filled with crushed stone, which is again covered with geofabric from above and covered with soil.

It’s good if drainage is done immediately for the entire village, and if someone does it alone, then he will have to constantly pump out water with a pump, as in Holland, because new cubic meters of water will come from neighboring areas.

Watch in the proposed video about the drainage of water in the garden.