Delphinium: planting and care, growing from seeds. How and when is it better to plant a perennial delphinium

To decorate the landscape, flower growers often breed delphinium from seeds; growing it on your own plot is a complicated process, but very exciting. In order for this beautiful flower from the ranunculus family to become the pride and decoration of the garden, you need to know the rules for planting and caring for it.

How to grow a delphinium from seeds?

Delphinium is a flower as luxurious as it is whimsical, but the candle-like, tall, elegant inflorescences are worth the effort. Growing delphinium flowers from seeds begins with high-quality planting material, it should not be kept warm, keep it in the refrigerator on a glazed balcony or veranda in a hermetically sealed container.

Growing a delphinium from seeds is not an easy process, but following the technology, you can get healthy plants by growing for seedlings or by sowing seeds on open soils. In order for the delphinium to begin to bloom in the year of planting, it should be grown using seedlings. When caring for sprouts, do not overmoisten the soil, water it in a pan, while the earth should be well dried out.

Stratification of delphinium seeds at home

Before seeding, delphinium is produced (keeping them moist in a cool room), for this process, perform the following manipulations:

Spread the delphinium seeds evenly on the cotton fabric.
Roll the fabric into a loose roll, place it in a container with a little water at the bottom.
Leave the dishes with seedlings in a room with a temperature of 5-7 ° C for seven days.
The fabric with seeds should not be excessively wet, but constantly moistened.
After a week, after examining appearance seeds, select for planting those that turned out to be more swollen, with future sprouts that appeared on them in the form of white dots.

When to plant delphinium seeds?

You can sow the material in early autumn (after the seeds are collected) or at a later date, after the soil is slightly frozen. At home, planting begins from the end of February, then the delphinium will bloom in the year of planting. In this case, seedlings should be provided with additional lighting with the help of. The process of planting seeds can last until mid-May.

The most favorable period when delphiniums should be sown for seedlings is experienced growers consider the first days of March, at this time you can avoid additional illumination. Good results depend not only on the timing of disembarkation, but also on other factors. Should be strictly adhered to necessary processes aimed at preparing seeds for planting and further care for seedlings.

Planting delphinium seeds

The method of planting a delphinium for seedlings with seeds is more complicated than using cuttings, but most flower growers prefer it directly, since it is possible to carry out full control over the process of planting seeds and plant growth. Giving some advice on sowing delphinium for seedlings, experts recommend adhering to the following sequence:

Disinfect the seeds with a deep pink solution of manganese.
Rinse, then leave for 24 hours in a solution (2 drops in half a glass of water), dry.
Using a water bath, steam the soil mixture (for 40-60 minutes), consisting of garden soil, mixed in equal quantities with peat and humus, with the addition of a small amount of sand. Pour it into a container for planting and compact.
Evenly place the seeds with tweezers on the soil, pour an earthen layer on top (about 3 mm), slightly moisten (it is better to do this from a spray bottle, pre-boiled and cooled water).

Planting delphinium seeds in peat tablets

Strong, viable seedlings grown without much effort is the dream of any grower, it is easy to realize if you sow a delphinium in. This method of growing plants has the following advantages:

Eliminates the work of preparing soil mixtures, steaming them and adding various growth stimulants to the soil.
Saves space.
Peat tablets are impregnated with antifungal compounds, stimulants and minerals.
The top layer of peat easily passes air to the root system, the roots receive the oxygen they need.
The grown seedling is easy to transfer to the ground without injuring it during transplantation.
For irrigation, pour water into the pan, with the tablets installed in it.

Peat tablets are great for delphinium, as for a plant with problematic germination that does not tolerate transplantation. Before planting the seeds, the tablets are placed in warm water, to wet the peat, then wring out to remove excess moisture and installed in a container or pallet. For ease of planting, each tablet has a small recess, put the seeds in them, pull the polyethylene over the container and place it in a warm, bright place.

Delphinium - landing in a snail

Most plants can be grown in the “snail way”, delphinium seedlings in the snail take root especially well, due to their cold-resistant properties, which allow the sprouts to be immediately transplanted into permanent soil. To fold the “snail”, a soft substrate is used, a container with transparent walls to place a spirally twisted roll in it, two stationery rubber bands and cellophane. There are three ways to grow seeds:

with the use of soil;
groundless (using toilet paper);
combined.

Taking up the laying of seeds, unfold the tape in front of you, pour soil on it or lay paper, retreating 10-15 mm from the edge, lay the seeds with tweezers on a surface previously moistened with water from a spray bottle. Press the seeds lightly, gently begin to twist the substrate so that it takes the form of a roll. Delphinium from seeds, growing seedlings using the snail method - allows you to clearly see the roots of the plant, which helps their subsequent sorting.

How long does it take for a delphinium to sprout?

The right temperature for growing crops, which is higher than + 8-10 ° C, makes it possible for sprouts to appear 9-10 days after sowing. Delphinium seedlings begin to develop well at a temperature in the range of + 15-17 ° C, but if the temperature in the room exceeds + 20 ° C, the seedlings become depressed, which is why it is difficult to grow strong and healthy plants in warm rooms.

To increase the germination of seeds, you can hold containers with seedlings for 4-5 days in a room with a temperature of +10 to +15 ° C, and then place containers with shoots for 12-14 days in a refrigerator, on a glazed balcony or insulated veranda. If during these periods the sprouts did not germinate, it means that you purchased low-quality seeds or did not follow the sowing technology.

When to dive delphinium after germination?

After opening 1-2 leaves, it can be produced in separate containers. The picking of the delphinium is carried out in containers sufficient to accommodate the root system in them. To transplant sprouts, take the same soil composition in which the seeds were sown, add fertilizer to it from a mixture of nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and trace elements, calculated as five grams per five liters of soil mixture. Having placed a sprout in a pot so that the neck of the root is located on the surface of the soil, sprinkle the roots with earth, lightly compact near the stalk.

Delphinium (lat. Delphinium)- a genus of herbaceous plants of the Buttercup family. Other names are larkspur, spur. There are about 450 species of annual and perennials. Annual delphiniums, which include about 40 species, are sometimes isolated into an adjacent genus and are called sokirks (Consolida). Delphiniums grow in China (about 150 species) and throughout South-East Asia, in the mountains of tropical Africa, in the northern and southern hemispheres. Many believe that an unopened delphinium is a flower that looks like a dolphin's head, hence the name, but it is believed that delphinium flowers got their name in honor of Greek city Delphi, in which they grew, they say, a great many. Be that as it may, a rare florist will not agree that this luxurious flower will decorate any flower garden.

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Planting and caring for a delphinium (in brief)

Landing: perennial: sowing seedlings in March, planting seedlings in the ground - in June, sowing seeds directly into the ground - in April-May. Annuals: sowing seeds in spring or before winter.
Bloom: summer.
Lighting: bright sun with shading in the afternoon hours.
The soil: sandy or loamy, moderately moist, rich in humus, neutral or slightly acidic.
Watering: in the dry season every week at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per plant. After watering or rain - obligatory loosening of the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm.
Top dressing: mineral and organic fertilizers: 1st - when the shoots reach a height of 10-15 cm, 2nd - at the very beginning of flowering, 3rd - at the end of flowering. After each top dressing, abundant watering is necessary.
Thinning and garter bushes: mandatory.
Reproduction: annuals - by seeds, perennials - by seeds and vegetatively (rhizome division, cuttings).
Diseases: powdery mildew, root rot, peronosporosis, fusarium, rust, viral infections - spots and mosaics.
Pests: mites, orbies, meadow nematodes, aphids and slugs.

Read more about growing a delphinium below.

Delphinium flower - features

Growing a delphinium is not an easy task., it requires knowledge and work. Firstly, the landing site must be sunny in the morning and closed from strong wind, as well as located in an area where water does not stagnate, otherwise the delphinium will simply rot. After planting, mulching with peat or humus is mandatory. In one place, delphiniums grow no more than 5-6 years, and Pacific species, less durable, no more than 3-4, then the bushes need to be divided and seated.

Delphiniums require repeated garters so that their hollow stems do not break in the wind. In addition, the delphinium is sometimes affected by powdery mildew and some types of pests. But if you are ready to fulfill all the whims of the delphinium, it will reward you with a lush long flowering in June and another, shorter, but no less beautiful, in August or September.

Growing delphinium from seeds

Sowing delphinium

Growing a perennial delphinium from seeds is not only profitable compared to buying planting material, but also exciting. Delphinium reproduces not only by seeds, but also by dividing the rhizome, buds and cuttings, but in this section we will tell you how to grow a delphinium from seeds. Delphinium sowing is carried out at the end of February.

Remember: when storing seeds in a dry, warm place, germination is lost. Fresh seeds should be sown immediately or kept in the refrigerator until the right time.

Before sowing, it is necessary to disinfect the seeds: placing them in a gauze bag, lower for twenty minutes in a solution of thick pink potassium permanganate. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use a fungicide by preparing the solution according to the instructions. Then, without removing the seeds from the bag, rinse the seeds thoroughly cold water and soak for a day in Epin's solution (a couple of drops per 100 ml of water). After that, dry the seeds so that they do not stick together.

Prepare the soil for seeds: take an equal amount of peat, garden soil and humus (compost), add half of the washed sand, sift. To increase the moisture capacity and friability of the soil, add perlite to it at the rate of half a cup per 5 liters of soil mixture. Now heat the mixture for an hour in a water bath to destroy weed seeds and fungal spores. Fill the seed planting containers with the mixture and compact it lightly.

In the photo: How to sow delphinium seeds for seedlings

Landing delphinium: spread the seeds over the surface of the soil, immediately fixing the labels with the name of the variety and the date of sowing. Sprinkle the seeds with a 3 mm layer of soil mixture on top so that the seeds do not float at the first watering, and lightly compact upper layer. Gently pour or spray the surface with cold boiled water. Cover the container with a transparent lid and then with a black film or covering material, as delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark, and place the container on a windowsill closer to the glass.

The optimum temperature for seed germination is + 10-15 ºC.

To increase germination, after 3-4 days, place the container in a refrigerator or on a glazed balcony and do not be afraid if the night temperature there drops to -5 ºC. After two weeks, place the seed container on the windowsill again. After this procedure (stratification), seedlings should appear in a week or two, and try not to miss this moment in order to immediately remove the film. Remember to keep the soil dry, spray it from time to time and ventilate the container to get rid of condensation.

In the photo: Sprouting delphinium seeds in a container

Healthy sprouts are dark green, strong, their cotyledons are characteristically pointed. When the plants have 2-3 leaves, you can dive the plants into pots with a volume of 200-300 ml, followed by growing them at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. The soil should be loose, breathable, watering should be very moderate so that a "black leg" does not appear, which will lead to the death of seedlings. From the beginning of May, gradually accustom the seedlings to fresh air, without removing them from the windowsill during airing. Let her stay in the bright sun for a while.

Feeding delphinium seedlings before landing in open ground 1-2 times with a break of 2 weeks with Agricola or Mortar so that the solution does not fall on the leaves. The grown seedlings can be planted in open ground, when the clod of earth in the pot is already covered with roots - the seedlings are easily removed along with the clod without damaging the root system.

In the photo: Sprouted delphinium seedlings

Planting a delphinium

Delphinium seedlings are planted in open ground when the threat of frost has passed. The place, as already mentioned, should be sunny before lunch and without stagnant moisture. How to plant a delphinium? For planting, you need to dig holes 40 cm in diameter and 50 cm deep at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, pour half a bucket of humus (compost), two tablespoons of complex fertilizer and a glass of ash into each of them, mix with the ground so that the fertilizers do not hit the root of the plant, then make a recess, place a seedling in it, compact the earth around it and water the bed. At first, it is better to cover each seedling with a plastic bottle or glass jar until the plants are well established, but as soon as the delphiniums begin to grow, the shelter must be removed.

Delphinium Care

When the shoots grow to 10-15 cm, they feed a solution of cow manure in the proportion of 1 bucket of manure per 10 buckets of water - for 5 large bushes. After removing weeds and loosening the soil, the bed should be mulched with a three-centimeter layer of humus or peat. TO thinning bushes they start when the stems become 20-30 cm tall: you need to leave 3-5 stems in the bush, which will allow you to get larger and more beautiful inflorescences. Remove weaker shoots from the inside of the bush, breaking off or cutting them off near the ground. This will protect the plant from disease and allow air to circulate.

Cut cuttings, if they are not yet hollow and cut with a heel (part of the rhizome), can be rooted.

The cut is treated with a mixture charcoal and crushed tablets of heteroauxin, added dropwise in a mixture of sand and peat and placed under the film. After 3-6 weeks, the cutting takes root, and after another two weeks it is planted in open ground - this is the answer to the question of how to grow a delphinium vegetatively, in this case, by cuttings.

When the plants reach 40-50 cm in height, near each bush, trying not to damage the roots, they dig in three supporting rods (slats) up to 180 cm high, to which tie up the stems of the delphinium ribbons or strips of fabric so that in strong winds they do not cut into the stems and do not injure them. The next tying is done at a height of 100-120 cm.

During growing season each delphinium "drinks" up to 60 liters of water. How to grow a delphinium in a dry summer? It is necessary to pour 2-3 buckets of water under each bush every week. When after glaze the earth dries up, you need to loosen it to a depth of 3-5 cm. Delphiniums especially need watering during the formation of inflorescences, and if heat sets in at this time, “brush gaps” will appear in the inflorescence, that is, areas without flowers. To avoid this, you need abundant watering and top dressing potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the rate of 20 g of fertilizers per bucket of water - one liter of solution for each bush.

In the second half of summer, powdery mildew may appear on the plants - a fungal disease that covers the leaves with a white bloom, which then turns brown. If measures are not taken in time, the entire aerial part of the plant will die. At the first sign, you need to spray the delphiniums twice with a solution of Topaz or Fundazol. Sometimes black spots appear on the leaves of the delphinium, spreading from the bottom of the plant to the top. This black spot, which can be fought only at an early stage by spraying the leaves twice with a solution of tetracycline in the proportion of 1 tablet per 1 liter of water.

Infects delphiniums and ring spot, staining the leaves with yellow spots. This is a viral disease, it cannot be cured, and the affected plants will have to be removed. But with the carrier of the virus, aphids, you need to fight: spray the plants with Karbofos or Aktellik for prevention. Of the pests, the plant is afraid of the delphinium fly, which lays eggs in buds, and slugs. They fight the fly with insecticides, and the slugs are repelled by the smell of bleach, which can be placed in jars between the delphinium bushes.

After flowering, the inflorescences are cut, collect seeds, but new shoots appear, and in the fall the delphiniums bloom again. At the end of summer or the beginning of autumn, between the first and second flowering, it is possible to divide three-four-year-old delphinium bushes. The bush must be dug up, carefully divided or cut with a knife so as not to damage the renewal buds, sprinkle the cuts wood ash and seat the divided parts. It's another way vegetative propagation delphinium.

Delphinium after flowering

When the leaves dry up after flowering, the stems of the delphinium are cut off at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground and, for reliability, the top of the tube (hollow stem) is covered with clay. They do this so that autumn rains and melt water do not get through the cavity to the root neck and do not contribute to the death of the plant from rotting of the rhizome. Almost all delphiniums are hardy both mature plants and seedlings. If the winter is cold and snowless, the beds with delphiniums should be covered with spruce branches or straw. Plants can only be destroyed by frequent and sudden changes in temperature, as they lead to an excess of moisture, from which rhizomes can rot. The best way to avoid this - to fall asleep when landing on the bottom of the pit half a bucket of sand, so that excess moisture could go deep through it.

It may immediately seem to you that dealing with this plant, especially growing a delphinium from seeds, is too troublesome, but if you are not afraid of the hassle and spend a little time and effort, the results will exceed all your expectations.

Types of delphinium

Delphiniums are annual and perennial. From annual delphiniums the most famous are the varieties of field delphinium and Ajax delphinium.

This is a tall plant, almost two meters high. The flowers in inflorescences are simple or double, pink, white, lilac or blue flowers. In culture since 1572. Frosted Sky varieties (blue flowers with a white center), pale pink Qis Rose and dark blue Qis Dark Blue look very impressive. Delphinium field blooms in early summer and blooms until autumn.

In the photo: What do the leaves of a decorative delphinium look like?

Delphinium Ajax

A hybrid of Doubtful delphinium and Eastern delphinium, which received their best qualities as a result of selection. The stem of this species is from 40 cm to 1 m high, almost sessile leaves are strongly dissected, spike-shaped inflorescences, reaching 30 cm in length, are the most different colors: purple, red, blue, pink, blue and white. Some varieties have dense flowers. There is dwarf varieties, such as Dwarf Hyacinth-flowered, up to 30 cm high with double flowers purple, pink, raspberry and white. Ajax delphiniums bloom from June until frost.

Delphinium hybrid

Growing perennial delphinium in culture began in the 19th century: breeders based on the first perennials Delphinium Elatum (Delphinium high) And Delphinium grandiflora (Delphinium grandiflora) the first hybrids were obtained by crossing (Delphinium Barlowii - Delphinium Barlow, Delphinium Formosum - Delphinium beautiful and Delphinium belladonna - Delphinium Belladonna), and then the Frenchman Victor Lemoine brought out terry forms of purple, blue and lavender perennials, which were called Delphinium Ornatum (beautiful) or "hybrid" (Delphinium hybridum), and then renamed "cultural" (Delphinium cultorum). Today, perennial delphiniums in their color palette have up to 800 shades! Among them are tall, medium height and undersized varieties with simple, semi-double, double and super-double flowers ranging in size from 2 cm to 9 cm in diameter.

In the photo: Delphinium Field (Delphinium Consolida)

Hybrid perennials are divided into groups according to their place of origin. The most popular are Scottish (F1 hybrids), new zealand delphiniums(New Millennium Delphiniums, or New Zealand Hybrids) and marfin hybrids, named after the state farm Marfino. Each group has its own differences and advantages. Marfinsky, for example, have excellent frost resistance and high decorativeness, they have large semi-double flowers with bright contrasting eyes (Blue lace, Morpheus, Spring snow, Pink sunset). But it is problematic to grow a Marfin perennial delphinium from seeds, since the seeds do not retain varietal characteristics.

New Zealand group, created not so long ago, is different tall(up to 2.2 m), large semi-double or double flowers (7-9 cm in diameter), in some species the petals are corrugated. These hybrids are frost-resistant, disease-resistant, durable, excellent for cutting and that is why they are the most popular today. Growing New Zealand delphiniums is a rewarding and profitable activity if you make money by selling flowers. Popular varieties: Sunny Skies, Green Twist, Pagan Purples, Blue Lace, Sweethearts.

On the picture: new zealand delphiniums(New Millennium Delphiniums)

Author Scottish hybrid perennial delphiniums is Tony Cockley. These hybrids are distinguished by very dense inflorescences of super-double and double flowers, sometimes numbering up to 58 petals. With a plant growth of 1.1-1.5 m, the inflorescence reaches 80 cm in length! "Scots" have a wide color palette, are unpretentious, durable and perfectly retain their varietal properties during seed propagation. Most famous varieties Morning Sunrise, Blueberry Pie, Moon Light, Sweet Sensation, Crystal Delight and Deepest Pink.

Delphinium (as well as larkspur or spur) is perennial flower, which will decorate any suburban area. Much of its popularity is due to its resemblance to the head of a dolphin (hence the name). As a rule, the main method of growing a delphinium is the initial planting of seeds for seedlings with further planting in open ground. About how to do it right, so that this summer a capricious plant will please you with its flowering, read on.

Popular varieties

Depending on the territory of the initial appearance, delphiniums are divided into the following varieties:

The most popular on our sites is its New Zealand variety, but it should be said right away that its cost is much higher than the price of mixtures or other less refined delphinium varieties.

The technology of planting delphinium seedlings

When to plant seeds for seedlings: optimal timing

The timing of planting the delphinium varies depending on the possibility of additional illumination of the seedlings until the optimal daylight hours. If you have special devices, you can start sowing as early as February, if not, then preferably from March.

As for the moment when it is better to plant a delphinium in different climatic zones, then the terms are as follows: in the South - starting from February, in middle lane(Moscow region) - from mid-March, in the Urals and Siberia - from the end of March.

Preparation and processing of delphinium seeds before planting

Important! Remember, delphinium seeds should be stored in the refrigerator.

Before sowing the delphinium for seedlings, its seeds must be properly prepared, in other words, treated before planting for better germination and protection from possible fungal diseases.

To do this, you need to do the following:

Disinfect the seeds in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes (necessarily in a gauze bag or bundle) or, of your choice, in a special fungicide like "Maxim" or for 1-2 hours (consumption of 1.5 g per 1 liter of water ).
Rinse the seeds in water (you can directly in the same bag).
Soak again in the Epip solution (4 drops per 100 ml of water) for 8-10 hours.
Dry the seed well.

Tanks and soil mix

As for the containers in which it is desirable to grow a delphinium, some people sow directly into pots, believing that the less the plant is injured by different transplants, the better. In fact, this pot has a fairly large volume of earth, and if it is not immediately occupied by roots, then moist soil tends to turn sour. In acidic soil, all pathogens settle much more easily, and the delphinium is very sensitive to both the black leg and root rot. Therefore, for planting it is better to use small containers, for example, small disposable plastic containers. Don't forget to poke drainage holes in them.

Important! As a rule, in such plastic containers they sell different kind salads, so before using it, you must first wash it thoroughly with an antibacterial dishwashing detergent.

The soil for planting a delphinium can be used as purchased, for example, universal for seedlings of peat-based flowers, soil for succulents and cacti is also well suited, and you can make it at home with your own hands.

The recipe for the preparation of the soil mixture is as follows:

1 part peat;
2 parts of garden or garden land;
1 part of humus (compost);
1/2 part of the washed sand.

After you mix everything, the resulting soil mixture you must first sift, and then, so that it becomes even more loose and stays wet longer, add perlite (about 1 cup per 10 liters of soil).

Now it remains only to disinfect the mixture from fungal spores and weed seeds by steaming it in a double boiler (you can use a water bath) or heating it in the oven for 60 minutes.

Advice! It is also possible to steam the soil in the microwave for only 5-6 minutes!

And also better soil additionally shed with a fungicide, for example, a solution "or" Fitolavin.

Sowing seeds

Planting delphinium seeds for seedlings can be done in accordance with the following step-by-step instructions:

Video: how to grow a delphinium from seeds

In the next video, one of the most popular video blogger gardeners tells how to plant a delphinium without stratification (without a refrigerator), but with the help of scarification.

Video: the secret to the success of growing delphinium from seeds

Video: sowing seedsto the bank

One more interesting way sowing delphinium seeds with stratification:

Delphinium seedling care after planting

As a rule, the first friendly shoots appear in 1-2 weeks. Therefore, after 7-8 days, start regularly checking the planting capacity in order to quickly remove the container from the refrigerator and put the young seedlings on the windowsill, where there is a lot of light or under phytoplamps (a more budgetary option is LED lamps). Further, the temperature for the normal development of delphinium seedlings should be 18-20 degrees. If the temperature is below 16 or above 20, then this will significantly slow down the growth of young seedlings.

Now it is necessary to always keep the soil slightly moist, in no case allowing it to dry out.

Daylight hours for the confident development of delphinium seedlings should be at least 12 hours, and preferably 14 hours.

picking

When the plant has 2 true leaves, you can begin to dive delphinium.

Before picking, be sure to water the plantings abundantly so that the roots are not very injured and easily come out of the ground.

You can take the same soil for picking, but adding a little complex mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to it (about 1 tablespoon per 5 liters of soil mixture).

It is optimal to dive delphinium seedlings into separate containers, for example, into cassettes.

Picking can be carried out as follows: take out the entire earthen clod with plants from the container, and then, separating one by one, transfer it to a new “dwelling” (previously spilling the earth abundantly). Make small indentations in it, and then sprinkle the roots with earth to the root neck and gently compact.

Care after picking

The delphinim seedlings that have been picked up now need to be returned to a sufficiently lit (12-14 hours) and relatively warm (18-20 degrees) place.

The first watering after picking should be carried out no earlier than a week later.

Further care of the delphinium consists in monitoring the temperature regime and maintaining moisture, as well as in several top dressings.

Before planting a delphinium in open ground, it is advisable to feed it with complex mineral fertilizer 2 times 4 weeks before planting with an interval of 2 weeks. The following can be used as such fertilizer: Agricola, Mortar, Gumistar and Fertika Lux. This should be exactly the root top dressing, fertilizer in no case should fall on the leaves of the plant. If it suddenly gets in, then it will need to be washed off immediately with water.

When and how to plant a delphinium in open ground

As soon as the delphinium seedlings have 3-4 true leaves, it is worth starting to harden it for fresh air. Somewhere in 10-14 days after hardening, the time for planting flowers in the garden is suitable.

The earliest time for landing a delphinium in open ground is the end of April, which is suitable for the South. In the Middle lane (Moscow region), it is better to plant in May, and in the Urals and Siberia - in late May and early June.

It is advisable for the delphinium to choose a place where there is a lot of light until noon, and the landings are well protected from strong winds, for example, it can be a place near the wall of a house or a fence. Because Since this plant is quite drought-resistant, it is necessary that its moisture does not stagnate, otherwise it will begin to swell and eventually rot.

Delphinium is best planted on pre-prepared beds, in which humus, peat and sand were previously introduced. As an alternative, biohumus can be used.

It is best to plant the delphinium in the ground at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other in holes or directly in a small trench.

Now it remains only to water the plantings abundantly from a garden watering can.

Video: correct landing of delphinium in open ground

Caring for a delphinium in the open field

What actions need to be taken so that the delphinium develops and pleases with rapid and long flowering?

Of course, the care of the delphinium should include weeding, loosening, watering (at least 2 times every 7th day) and top dressing.

Top dressing is necessary only if you are not sure of the sufficient fertility of your soil, because. then the plant will actively grow greenery, but you can not wait for flower stalks.

If the delphinium began to turn yellow, and you see that the plant is developing rather slowly, then it is recommended to feed it.

It is desirable to feed the delphinium 3 times per season:

After landing in the ground, as soon as the height of the shoots reaches 12-15 centimeters - complete mineral dressing.
During the formation of buds - complete top dressing, but with least amount nitrogen, that is, with a maximum content of potassium and phosphorus.
When the renewal buds begin to set, that is, at the end of flowering, again, porcelain-potassium top dressing.

After each feeding, the plant should be poured abundantly with plain water.

From the moment inflorescences form on the plant, it is recommended to increase the number and volume of watering.

When only the height of the delphinium is about 25-35 cm in height, it must be thinned out by removing the weakest shoots, leaving about 5-6 pieces per 1 bush. So we can get more powerful inflorescences in the future.

Be sure to take care of the garter of the delphinium shoots. So, the first time they should be tied up when they reach a height of 45 cm, and the second and last - 110 cm. Moreover, it is recommended to tie them not to one support, but to several at once, that is, the "eight". Here are some of the most popular ways to tie: 1. Stick woven tree branches around the bush in spring (this will be a kind of natural support) or 2. Place a metal mesh rolled up into a cylinder. Although not as decorative, it is much lighter and simpler.

At the end of summer - beginning of autumn it will be necessary to carry out side events for the care of the delphinium so that the flower is well prepared for the winter and endures all severe hardships.

You need to start by removing the entire aerial part after the shoots have dried, leaving literally small stumps. And with the onset of cold weather, cover the surface with spruce branches or straw.

Video: summer care behind the delphinium before and after flowering

Thus, growing a delphinium from seeds at home is not so difficult, you just need to follow the basic rules and recommendations for planting it and further caring for the flower, up to pruning and shelter for the winter. And then your reward will be more than worthy.

Video: growing delphinium - from sowing seeds to abundant flowering

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Florists often ask why purchased seeds do not germinate, while seeds from their garden germinate perfectly. The thing is that we usually sow our seeds fresh, and store the purchased seeds at home (since we buy them in the off-season).

With warm dry storage, delphinium seeds quickly lose their germination. If you bought seeds at the beginning of winter and it is still a long way before sowing, immediately put the bags in the refrigerator.

When to sow delphinium

You can sow the delphinium in various terms: in autumn (immediately after collecting seeds), (after freezing of the soil). At home, you can start sowing in the second half of February.

Preparing delphinium seeds for sowing

Disinfect the seeds: place them in a gauze bag in a thick pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes or in a fungicide solution prepared according to the instructions ( Maksim, Fitosporin).

After potassium permanganate, thoroughly rinse the seeds in cold water and in the same bags, soak the seeds for a day in a solution Epina(1-2 drops per 100 ml of water). Lightly dry so that they do not stick together during sowing.

Soil mixture for sowing delphinium

Land for sowing should consist of garden soil, peat and humus (or compost) in equal parts. Add 0.5 parts of washed sand. Sift. To increase the friability and moisture capacity of the mixture, it is good to add a little perlite (about 0.5 cups per 5 liters of the mixture).

Steam the soil mixture for 1 hour in a water bath to kill fungal spores and weed seeds. Fill with moist sowing containers, level and lightly compact.

Spread the delphinium seeds evenly over the surface of the soil. If there are few seeds, you can spread them out with tweezers. In order not to confuse the varieties, put them with the names of the varieties immediately during sowing.

Sprinkle the seeds on top with the same soil in a layer of about 3 mm. So that the seeds do not float during the first watering, compact the earth a little.

Gently water or carefully spray the delphinium crops from a spray bottle with cold boiled water.

Delphinium sprouts better in the dark, and through loose soil, a little light can break through to the seeds. Therefore, crops must be covered with black covering material or film. It is better to put them immediately on the windowsill, closer to the glass. Delphinium seeds germinate even at temperatures of +8...+10°C. At temperatures above +20°C, seedlings are inhibited and often die.

How to increase the germination of delphinium seeds

A change in temperature increases the germination of seeds very well. Hold the container with crops for 3-4 days at a temperature of +10 ... + 15 ° C, then put it in the refrigerator for 2 weeks, on a glazed balcony or veranda.

It is not scary if the temperature at night drops to -3 ... -2 ° С. This will benefit the seeds. After a two-week cold period, bring the crops back indoors.

Usually, after such preparation, seedlings appear on the 7-14th day. It is important not to miss this moment, remove the dark shelter in time and expose the delphinium seedlings to the light on the window, closer to the glass, where the temperature is not higher than + 20 ° C.

When the first true sheet appears, you can proceed to.

How to dive delphinium

For picking, you can use the same soil composition by adding 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium + trace elements) to 5 liters of the mixture, and mix thoroughly. The volume of dishes for picking seedlings of great importance does not have.

After hardening, delphinium seedlings can be planted at the end of April on permanent place. Delphinium is a cold-resistant culture, well-hardened young plants endure small spring frosts.

With a small spatula, make a small indentation in the compacted soil, sufficient to freely accommodate the roots of the seedling. Cover the roots with earth and gently compact it around the plant with your fingers. The root neck should be at the level of the soil surface.

Carefully water the plants under the root, holding the seedling. If the roots are bare, sprinkle the remaining earth on top.

How to feed delphinium seedlings

Before landing in the ground, the delphinium needs to be fed 1-2 times with an interval of 2 weeks containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (preferably with trace elements). Fertilizers are very good for this. Mortar, Fertika Lux, Agricola. Fertilizer solution when top dressing should not fall on the leaves. If this does happen, rinse it off carefully with clean water.

When the seedlings have 3-4 true leaves, you can start hardening in the fresh air. After 2 weeks of hardening, the delphinium can be planted in the ground.

If your garden has a place for tall flowering perennials, then plant a strict and imposing aristocrat delphinium. Blooming delphiniums are always very spectacular. They possess unusual shape flower and rare shades. Moreover, they do not need any special care. And what is most pleasant perennial species normally winter in our latitudes. Let's pay attention to the perennial delphinium, the cultivation from seeds of which can provide you flowering plant already this summer.

Delphinium, spur or larkspur (Delphinium) is a tall (up to 2 m) flowering herbaceous plant. There are over 300 annual and perennial species.

The leaves are rounded, palmately lobed, slightly hairy. On an upright stem is a large spike-shaped inflorescence, in which there can be up to 80 flowers. Alpine views shorter ones.

In floriculture, various subspecies and varieties of delphinium hybrid (Delphinium x cultorum Voss.) are most often used. They are divided into groups:

— Marfin hybrids Russian selection are distinguished by high winter hardiness. But when propagated by seeds, a strong splitting of species characteristics occurs, so they are now used infrequently.

— Hybrids Belladonna(D. Belladonna) bred from labial and large-flowered varieties at the end of the 19th century. They are relatively low, have the ability to re-bloom.

Delphinium hybrids Belladonna

— Hybrids Elatum(D. x. elatum) obtained as a result of crossing with the obligatory participation of high delphinium. large flowers of this species are most often semi-double.

Delphinium hybrids Elatum

— Pacific hybrids or Pacific (D. x pacific) bred in the USA, distinguished by tall bushes, large inflorescences and flowers. But in our climatic conditions it is often affected by diseases, therefore it is mainly used as a biennial, but it can grow up to 6 years. Needs support.

— New Zealand hybrids or New Millennium Hybrids are the most popular delphiniums. Bred by New Zealand breeder Terry Dowdeswell. They have a very high decorative effect, as they have large dense inflorescences, the purest color of various tones. And besides this, they are winter-hardy, durable and retain their original qualities during reproduction.

Delphinium New Zealand hybrids

main feature delphinium - an unusual flower structure. It consists of 5 petals, one of which has a “spur” process. Inside are two small petals and two nectaries, which differ in color from the outer sepals. It is they who attract pollinators (bumblebees, birds), so they are called eyes or bees. It concerns simple shapes, but there are also semi-double and fully terry types.

Breeding options

Perennial species of delphinium grow in one place up to 6 years, then the bush begins to thin out and requires a transplant. During such a procedure, the simplest reproduction is carried out - by dividing the bush. Do it in early spring or late summer after flowering. It is enough to separate one shoot with a healthy renewal bud and the presence of roots.

Just like other perennials, the delphinium also propagates by cuttings. Cut them in May or August. Rooted in a shaded place in a wet mixture of sand and peat (previously treated with heteroauxin). At temperatures slightly above 20 degrees, rooting occurs within two to three weeks.

Growing delphinium from seeds is also popular. Previously, propagation by seeds led to the loss of parental traits. Now, thanks to modern breeders, this problem is practically solved. New Zealand hybrids are especially good at this.

Delphinium seeds and their features

One of the difficulties in growing delphiniums from seeds is their very short shelf life. They quickly lose their viability. And so that the seeds collected in the fall can be sown on seedlings in the spring, they must be stored exclusively in the refrigerator. Seeds kept warm deteriorate, as at temperatures above 15 degrees they can begin to germinate right in the package.

Therefore, be very careful when buying seeds. Before ordering, read reviews about online stores, ask competent acquaintances. Delphinium seeds are quite expensive and it's a pity if you spend money and effort in vain.

You can collect your own seeds from flowering delphiniums. This should be done on a dry sunny day, and fully ripe dark brown seeds should be selected. It is best to store them in a glass container in the refrigerator or in another fairly cool place (veranda or balcony). However, when using your own seeds, there is a very high chance of getting plants that are different from the parent. Therefore, it is better to contact trusted stores or well-known breeders for seeds.

Sowing seeds in open ground

You can grow delphiniums from seeds by sowing them in the second half of spring directly into open ground. To do this, carefully dig a bed (about 30 cm), add complex fertilizers. Make superficial shallow grooves, water them well, evenly distribute the seeds and sprinkle on top thin layer dry soil. For better seed germination, the bed can be covered with dark agrofiber or black film. Provide regular surface watering. Shoots should appear in about 25 days. And only after that it will be possible to remove the shelter.

Young shoots should be regularly watered and fed. Loosen the soil and remove weeds. For the winter, young plants will require shelter. And on next year they can already be planted in a permanent place, and they can bloom.

Winter sowing annual species of delphiniums breed.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

You can grow delphiniums from seeds seedling way. Sowing seeds of delphiniums for seedlings is best done in the last days of February or at the very beginning of March. In 2019 auspicious days in February are: 24-26, 28; in March - 1-2, 5, 7, 10-14 (see details). Since young shoots are not very satisfied with artificial lighting, they want more daylight.

The first step is to prepare the planting soil. It should be neutral or slightly acidic, as well as light and breathable. To do this, you can prepare a soil mixture of sand and leaf (or sod) soil, adding a little humus and peat. A special soil mixture bought in a store is also suitable.

Before use, the soil must be disinfected. There are several options. You can put it in a microwave oven for 5 minutes (maximum power) or pour it with boiling water, or you can simply pour it with a solution of manganese or Previcur.

Delphiniums do not tolerate picking very well, therefore, if possible, it is better to immediately sow them in large separate cups (9-13 cm in diameter).

Seeds must be stored in the package before sowing. negative temperature in the freezer.

You can take any general container for sowing seeds (disposable food plastic containers with lids are popular), the main thing is to make drainage holes at the bottom, since stagnant water is detrimental to seedlings. You can put a little broken red brick or expanded clay on the bottom.

We fill the container with moist soil, compact it, leaving about two centimeters to the top edge of the container. It is important that the depth of the soil layer is at least 10 cm. We spread the seeds with a wet toothpick (they stick to one, and with another toothpick we push them into Right place). It is desirable that there be a distance of 1.5-2 cm between the seeds. Lightly press them to the surface and sprinkle with the thinnest layer of soil (about 2-3 mm). We pour from a spray bottle. We cover the container with a lid or a film, and on top with black agrofibre (you can also use a black opaque film). Delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark. Please note that the temperature should not be higher than 20 degrees (15-18)! Lower is possible, and a higher temperature will inhibit the sprouts.

When the first shoots appear (after 7-12 days), we remove the dark shelter and put our container in a very bright place, but not in direct sun. On cloudy days, be sure to turn on additional lighting. It is advisable to light up in the evening. Watering drip or spray spray.

Do not forget to regularly remove condensation from the lid and gradually ventilate the seedlings. When the sprouts reach the level of the cover (film or glass), then it must be removed.

Further care

If you did not sow the seeds immediately in separate large cups, then after the appearance of the first pair of true leaves, you should pick the seedlings. Delphiniums are very sensitive to root injuries, so do this as carefully as possible.

Use large plastic cups, but it is best to dive seedlings in peat cups. You can avoid injury to plants by planting them in the garden along with a glass. When picking, carefully take the sprout by the cotyledon leaves and deepen it into the soil to the level of real leaves. Then we continue to grow seedlings at a temperature below 20 degrees, additional lighting and accurate regular watering (we use a spray gun or a syringe without a needle).

A few days after picking, seedlings can be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer. In the future, we carry out top dressing every week.

To prevent the disease of seedlings with a "black leg", the first watering after planting, as well as after picking, should be carried out with a solution of "Previkura".

In early May, seedlings should be gradually hardened off. Take plants outside or outdoor balcony at first for a few minutes, then gradually increasing the time up to several hours.

Another interesting sowing method

Does delphinium need stratification?

On the question of whether it is necessary to carry out seed stratification when sowing a delphinium for seedlings, there is no consensus.

Some flower growers believe that since the seeds were stored in a cold place before sowing, they were already stratified to some extent. They sow seeds directly into the ground and get normal germination.

Other, no less experienced flower growers, believe that stratification is still necessary. To do this, containers with sown seeds (which were previously stored in the freezer) are placed in the refrigerator for about 10-14 days. Then the container is placed in a warm (+25 degrees) and bright place. And after germination, take care of the seedlings as usual. With this method, germination is also good.

So here the choice is entirely yours.

Planting in the garden

When the possibility of night frost has passed, around the end of May (depending on your climatic conditions) we plant our seedlings in the allotted place in the garden.

To plant delphiniums, choose a place without wind and stagnant water. It should be sunny, but with shading at midday. The soil is suitable sandy or loamy, necessarily enriched with humus. Delphiniums normally tolerate drought, for them excessive waterlogging is much worse.

Planting density depends on the variety and compositional solution. After planting, mulch the root circle. Young plants at first must be shaded so that they do not receive sunburn and well adapted to the new conditions. It is also important to protect the tender leaves from slugs. Do not forget to consider a support for tying grown delphiniums.

IN further care the most common: watering, fertilizing, loosening and removing weeds, garter. For the winter top part cut off. The delphinium hibernates without shelter. However, if your winters are frosty and often without snow, then it is better to cover the plants with straw or spruce branches.

The first year your seedlings will gain strength and grow roots. At the end of summer you will see the first, still weak, flowering. And next year you will be pleased with the full flowering, which, when proper care and in accordance with the characteristics of the variety can occur twice.

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Diseases and pests

Seedlings of delphiniums from seeds, like any other, can be subjected to fungal disease"blackleg". The causative agents of this disease are in the soil, therefore, for prevention, its disinfection is required. Waterlogging, dense planting and heavy soil contribute to the occurrence of the disease. If you notice a plant with blackening at the bottom of the stalk, which is becoming weak, immediately remove it. In case of group sowing, the soil should be replaced as much as possible, and then watered with a solution of the Previkur preparation.

Mature plants are affected by fungal diseases (powdery mildew, rust, root collar rot, mosaic and others). Delphiniums also suffer from bacterial (viral) diseases (spotting, curly, and others).

For fungal infections, spraying with Bordeaux mixture (5%) or other drugs that act on a particular disease is used.

With viruses, it is most often necessary to remove the affected plant. Spraying with tetracycline solution may help, but only at the very beginning of the disease. And with carriers of infections - aphids should be fought with the help of insecticides.

All these diseases appear as a result of improper plant care and adverse weather conditions(long rains or severe drought). You should also regularly remove fallen leaves, thin out the bushes, and water them in a timely manner.

Delphiniums also have pests: aphids, spider mite, dolphin and onion fly, various caterpillars, slugs, which are very harmful to young leaves.

Insects must be fought with special chemicals. Against aphids, you can also use tobacco dust, garlic infusion. And metaldehyde helps fight slugs. Various folk means of struggle are quite troublesome.

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Little hints

Before sowing seeds on the surface of the soil, sift with a thin layer river sand. On a light sandy background, dark brown seeds will be clearly visible and this will make it possible to distribute them correctly.
For more successful wintering, in addition to mulching, you can sprinkle the trimmed bush with sand, and cover the hollow tube of the stem with clay (or even plasticine).
White delphinium varieties require more light than others. Therefore, they are put in a bright place when the very first seed is hatched, without waiting for the rest.
With a close landing of several different varieties the purity of the variety may not be preserved. Also, temperature and external environment may affect the color of some varieties.

Now you know how to grow a delphinium from seeds. It is not much more difficult than any other seedling. And all the troubles and efforts will immediately seem insignificant, as soon as you see the stunning splendor of large openwork candles of a blooming delphinium in your garden. Hurry up to buy seeds, because you can already start sowing!

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