What to do if the site is damp. What to do with excess moisture in the garden? Different situations - different solutions

Before buy a plot, inspect it carefully, determine the seasonal change in the level ground water(it is better to invite specialists for this). Knowing its advantages and disadvantages can play a decisive role in the design of the future garden.

It is very important to find out soil type. According to the degree of its acidity, you can decide which plants to plant in the garden. Please note: in different parts of the same area, it may differ. So, under the trees, where fallen decaying leaves accumulate, acidity can be increased. As in a damp swampy place (pH 5-4). In dry soil at the base of the wall on the sunny side, the acidity, on the contrary, will be

Soil type can also be determined by the nature of the vegetation. For example,

• reeds or reeds indicate waterlogged acidic soil;
• thistle grows in wastelands and infertile soil;
• heather, moss, plantain indicate high acidity

In addition to the type of soil, you need to know and its structure. For example, loamy has a good fine-grained structure. In such a site, with the correct filling of the planting pit and mulching, the plants will feel great.

If there was construction on the site

Good soil can be found in summer cottages, where the owners carefully cultivated crops. In cottage settlements, after construction, the soil is so disfigured and littered with construction waste that it often has to be completely changed.

Therefore, if construction has not yet begun, it should be removed fertile layer, put aside and carefully monitor so that it does not crumble, so that it does not fall construction garbage. After construction is completed, this soil is returned to its place, which greatly facilitates the creation landscape design further.

If the soil is not very fertile

But what if the soil in your area is acidic, clayey, not very fertile? She is difficult to process. There is low bacterial activity and few earthworms. In dry weather, a crust forms on the surface, in wet weather, waterlogging occurs. It warms up slowly, so the flowers here bloom later.

To make sure that the soil is heavy clay, you can try to mold a lump out of it, which, when pressed again, will change shape. If you drop it and the ball does not fall apart, most likely the soil is so problematic that you will have to replace or improve the structure: add sand and organic matter (compost, etc.). If the site has not yet been developed, dig it in the fall without breaking clods (in the future it is better to avoid digging the soil), apply organic fertilizers. acidic soils lime. The best way to restore soil fertility is to use EM Technologies.

Apply EM-Utilities, in particular Baikal EM-1. Effective Microorganisms brought into the ground will begin their work to restore fertility in a natural way

If the area is too wet

Often new owners face big problems - high level groundwater and the occurrence of deep layers of clay that hold water. The operation of such a site sometimes becomes impossible. The picture is especially well visible in the spring, after the snow melts and showers. What to do?

If the site has a slope, then surface water can be diverted to the boundaries, along which drainage pipes are laid (water is taken to a special well). The most effective will be special drainage perforated pipes. Can be done and drainage ditches, fill them with gravel, sand or crushed stone, protecting them from the ground with non-woven synthetic material. Ditches can be open and closed type. Trays from prefabricated or monolithic reinforced concrete. Such a surface linear drainage system copes well with precipitation, but does not reduce the level of groundwater.

If the area is flat, and in the spring it is difficult to determine the level of groundwater, you can dig a hole and check how quickly the water dries up in it. If problems are found with this, underground drainage systems are used to deal with "high water". First, trenches of a given depth are dug, (20-30 cm below the expected pipe laying level). The bottom is made under the slope necessary for the pipe. Spread it with geotextile. Then a sand and gravel pillow is prepared in the trenches: layers of sand and gravel are successively covered.

If this is done qualitatively, the drainage will silt up more slowly and last longer. After laying the pipe, the ditch is again covered with layers of gravel and sand, and then with soil. At the lower point of the drainage channels, a collector is arranged to collect incoming water, with the help of which it will flow into a well (2-3 cubic meters) or into a ravine. If necessary, a drainage pump is installed in the well.

To protect plants from root wetting on such a site, it is possible to form an artificial relief (for example, terraces). True, this method is suitable for plants with a shallow root system. Also in landing pits and places where flower beds are planned, sand and gravel cushions 30-40 cm thick can be arranged.

The presence of water is the main condition for the growth of almost all plants, including garden crops. But, if there is a lot of water, then this is already a real disaster. This is familiar to many owners. summer cottages and country houses. And you can’t put up with this: in a swampy area, not only flowers and trees in the garden will disappear very quickly, nothing will grow in the garden, but buildings will soon begin to suffer. The fact is that in the muddy mess, the base of the building will begin to disperse, fall into the depths and, over time, cracks will appear on the walls, which will increase after each prolonged rain. An unhappy prospect. But not a single owner will wait for such unpleasant consequences, especially since there is a way out - you can drain the site.

soil drainage

Drainage is a whole system designed to provide outflow from the site. surface water. But before proceeding with its arrangement, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

1. Terrain relief.
2. The level at which the ground water is located.
3. The amount of precipitation.
4. Communication plan.
5. Placement (if any) of a cellar, basement or other recessed buildings.
6. Structure, composition of the soil.
7. The presence of shrubs, trees and their number.

Stagnation of water on the site seriously threatens the integrity of buildings

Now it remains to choose the version of the system that is suitable for the site.

System types

There are two ways to drain the soil - by arranging deep or surface drainage. Although both options are designed to remove excess moisture, their laying and work are done in completely different ways.

Thus, the main purpose of surface drainage is to remove water from the topsoil that collects after floods, rain and accumulates near the building, terrace, paths and other site objects.

Surface drainage

To dry the surface layers, you can equip a linear or point system design. Water intakes in the arrangement of point drainage are installed where water occupies small areas. This is:

• various recesses of a natural type;
• the lower parts of the terraces;
• zones at the door;
• entry;
• near waterways.

The design of the point system is so simple that it does not need to create a circuit for its manufacture. To equip the structure, it is necessary to prepare storm water inlets, water conduits, storm dampers, sedimentation tanks, ladders.

Surface drainage

To fertile soil from areas that have a slope of more than three degrees, it was not washed off, it is necessary to equip a storm system. It is also necessary in the following cases:

1. When the water washes away the path.
2. To drain the area where the entrance to the garage is located.
3. When there are frequent long rains and it is necessary to divert a large amount of water from the foundations of structures.

Linear drainage

This is the name of the system of gutters buried in the soil. To close the gutters, removable gratings made of metal or plastic material are used.

The main condition is that the gutters must be laid at a slope so that the water masses can move by gravity. Moving along the gutter, moisture enters the sand trap. This element is the simplest filter from which water moves through conduits to storm sewers.

Linear drainage

To build a linear drainage, you need to first plan its placement and prepare for laying. In addition, it is necessary to equip concrete base for laying all elements of the system. If there is a need to make a larger catchment area, you can additionally concrete the slope.

Attention! To improve drainage efficiency, it is necessary to combine linear and point structures in the same area. Then the volumes of water, even after strong floods, showers, will be diverted from the soil and will not be able to harm either buildings or plants.

deep drainage

This is the name of the system of underground drainage channels. They move excess water masses from the site. To collect them, collector or drainage wells are equipped.

According to how groundwater is collected, the structures are:

1. Vertical.
2. Horizontal.
3. Combined (combines both previous options).

Vertical structures are built like ribbed wells. They are located in aquifers. Filtering and pumping units are placed inside the wells. Because of this, such systems are considered engineering structures that need constant maintenance. Therefore, vertical drainage is rarely used in a private area. For the same reason, combined structures are not built so often.

deep drainage

The easiest and most affordable financial terms horizontal drainage. And not superficial, but deep type. The main elements for its arrangement are drains. These are perforated pipes intended for laying on gravel filling in prepared ditches. Previously, asbestos-cement products were used for this purpose, but they turned out to be harmful to environment and they were replaced with plastic ones.

Advice. Today use PVC pipes not ordinary, smooth, but corrugated. Such products are less time-consuming to install and cost less.

So that sand and soil do not get inside the pipes through the holes, they are wrapped in special material. This is geotextile or coconut fiber material. The choice of material depends on the type of soil. If it is loamy or sandy, geotextiles can be used; for other types of soil, coconut fiber material is suitable. Non-woven fabric, dornite and others are used as geotextiles. soft materials, but hard ones should not be taken - they do not pass moisture well.

Work that can be done with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Draw up a laying diagram, which will indicate the location of the sewer well.
2. Based on the scheme, dig ditches.
3. Lay sand on the bottom with a layer of 10-15 cm, and then lay the geotextile. It should be enough to wrap the drains.
4. Lay the drains so that they are sloped and lead to the collector.
5. Connect individual elements tees or crosses.
6. Wrap the drains and pour rubble on top, and then a layer of earth.

From the collector it is necessary to provide further discharge of water. The nearest ditch, ravine, and if possible, the central storm system can serve as such a place.

Attention! During the laying of drains, it is necessary to backfill using crushed stone. It is best to take crushed stone with a fraction of 2 to 6 cm in size for this. Granite, river crushed stone is suitable, but limestone should not be used: it will be washed out during operation and salinization of the soil will certainly occur.

Maintenance of drainage systems

Although both deep and surface systems, with proper arrangement, do not need frequent maintenance, it is still necessary:

Don't forget about regular cleaning drainage system

1. Regularly inspect wells and sewers. If necessary, clean them up.
2. To remove deposits from the walls of the drainage pipes, it is necessary to do their capital flushing. This will not be done often - once every 8-10 years.

In order to design and lay drainage on the site, it is imperative to watch a video with instruction materials on the specifics of the work. If everything is done correctly, the drainage will work for more than half a century, providing drainage all this time. excess moisture from the site.

Site drainage: video

Arrangement of the drainage system: photo

The presence of water is the main condition for the growth of almost all plants, including garden crops. But, if there is a lot of water, then this is already a real disaster. This is familiar to many owners of summer cottages and country houses. And you can’t put up with this: in a swampy area, not only flowers and trees in the garden will disappear very quickly, nothing will grow in the garden, but buildings will soon begin to suffer. The fact is that in the muddy mess, the base of the building will begin to disperse, fall into the depths and, over time, cracks will appear on the walls, which will increase after each prolonged rain. An unhappy prospect. But not a single owner will wait for such unpleasant consequences, especially since there is a way out - you can drain the site.

soil drainage

Drainage is a whole system designed to provide an outflow from a surface water area. But before proceeding with its arrangement, it is necessary to take into account the following factors:

1. Terrain relief.
2. The level at which the ground water is located.
3. The amount of precipitation.
4. Communication plan.
5. Placement (if any) of a cellar, basement or other recessed buildings.
6. Structure, composition of the soil.
7. The presence of shrubs, trees and their number.

Stagnation of water on the site seriously threatens the integrity of buildings

Now it remains to choose the version of the system that is suitable for the site.

System types

There are two ways to drain the soil - by arranging a deep or surface one. Although both options are designed to remove excess moisture, their laying and work are done in completely different ways.

Thus, the main purpose of surface drainage is to remove water from the topsoil that collects after floods, rain and accumulates near the building, terrace, and other site objects.

Surface drainage

To dry the surface layers, you can equip a linear or point system design. Water intakes in the arrangement of point drainage are installed where water occupies small areas. This is:

• various recesses of a natural type;
• the lower parts of the terraces;
• zones at the door;
• entry;
• near waterways.

The design of the point system is so simple that it does not need to create a circuit for its manufacture. To equip the structure, it is necessary to prepare storm water inlets, water conduits, storm dampers, sedimentation tanks, ladders.

Surface drainage

So that fertile soil from areas that have a slope of more than three degrees is not washed off, it is necessary to equip a storm system. It is also necessary in the following cases:

1. When the water washes away the path.
2. To drain the area where the entrance to the garage is located.
3. When there are frequent long rains and it is necessary to divert a large amount of water from the foundations of structures.

Linear drainage

This is the name of the system of gutters buried in the soil. To close the gutters, removable gratings made of metal or plastic material are used.

The main condition is that the gutters must be laid at a slope so that the water masses can move by gravity. Moving along the gutter, moisture enters the sand trap. This element is the simplest filter from which water moves through conduits to storm sewers.

Linear drainage

To build a linear drainage, you need to first plan its placement and prepare for laying. In addition, it is necessary to equip a concrete base for laying all the elements of the system. If there is a need to make a larger catchment area, you can additionally concrete the slope.

Attention! To improve drainage efficiency, it is necessary to combine linear and point structures in the same area. Then the volumes of water, even after strong floods, showers, will be diverted from the soil and will not be able to harm either buildings or plants.

deep drainage

This is the name of the system of underground drainage channels. They move excess water masses from the site. To collect them, collector or drainage wells are equipped.

According to how groundwater is collected, the structures are:

1. Vertical.
2. Horizontal.
3. Combined (combines both previous options).

Vertical structures are built like ribbed wells. They are located in aquifers. Filtering and pumping units are placed inside the wells. Because of this, such systems are considered engineering structures that need constant maintenance. Therefore, vertical drainage is rarely used in a private area. For the same reason, combined structures are not built so often.

deep drainage

The simplest and most affordable horizontal drainage. And not superficial, but deep type. The main elements for its arrangement are drains. These are perforated pipes intended for laying on gravel filling in prepared ditches. Previously, asbestos-cement products were used for this purpose, but they turned out to be harmful to the environment and were replaced by plastic ones.

Advice. Today, PVC pipes are used not ordinary, smooth, but corrugated. Such products are less time-consuming to install and cost less.

So that sand and soil do not get inside the pipes through the holes, they are wrapped in a special material. This is geotextile or coconut fiber material. The choice of material depends on the type of soil. If it is loamy or sandy, geotextiles can be used; for other types of soil, coconut fiber material is suitable. Interlining, dornite and other soft materials are used as geotextiles, but hard ones should not be taken - they do not pass moisture well.

Work that can be done with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Draw up a laying diagram, which will indicate the location of the sewer well.
2. Based on the scheme, dig ditches.
3. Lay sand on the bottom with a layer of 10-15 cm, and then lay the geotextile. It should be enough to wrap the drains.
4. Lay the drains so that they are sloped and lead to the collector.
5. Connect individual elements with tees or crosses.
6. Wrap the drains and pour rubble on top, and then a layer of earth.

From the collector it is necessary to provide further discharge of water. The nearest ditch, ravine, and if possible, the central storm system can serve as such a place.

Attention! During the laying of drains, it is necessary to backfill using crushed stone. It is best to take crushed stone with a fraction of 2 to 6 cm in size for this. Granite, river crushed stone is suitable, but limestone should not be used: it will be washed out during operation and salinization of the soil will certainly occur.

Maintenance of drainage systems

Although both deep and surface systems, with proper arrangement, do not need frequent maintenance, it is still necessary:

Don't Forget About Regularly Cleaning Your Drainage System

1. Regularly inspect wells and sewers. If necessary, clean them up.
2. To remove deposits from the walls of the drainage pipes, it is necessary to do their capital flushing. This will not be done often - once every 8-10 years.

In order to design and lay drainage on the site, it is imperative to watch a video with instruction materials on the specifics of the work. If everything is done correctly, the drainage will work for more than half a century, ensuring all this time the removal of excess moisture from the site.

Site drainage: video

Arrangement of the drainage system: photo

Excessive water on the land interferes with normal farming and gradually destroys structures. Excess water promotes leaching nutrients from the soil, because of it, salinization of the earth occurs, it washes away the roots of trees and the foundations of buildings. That is why every owner who encounters a similar problem needs to know how to drain the site. This is a rather laborious, but do-it-yourself task.

Choice of method

You can dry the area with several different ways. Before choosing any particular one, you need to consider the following points:

1. Soil permeability in the area.
2. Dimensions and shape of the pit.
3. Required water level.
4. The period for which it is necessary to dry land plot from ground water.
5. The presence of buildings and different kind structures on the site.
6. Direction of groundwater.

It is possible to organize surface drainage of groundwater. In this case, through the slopes and the bottom of the pit, they will penetrate into the drainage ditches, and then transported to the pits, from which they will be pumped out using pumps. When organizing such a system on fine-grained soils, a mixture of sand and gravel is used to fill the drainage ditches.

It is possible to organize the discharge of groundwater without the use of pipes. Deep trenches are being dug. They must be filled with filter material. Most often, coarse-grained sand, gravel is used for this. The material is covered with several layers of different fractions. In addition, peat must be used. It will protect the backfill from contamination.

Decorative pool for collecting atmospheric waters with personal plot^ 1 - water-loving plants; 2 - covering the site and paths with natural stone; 3 - pool bowl; 4 - bench; 5 - weeping willow; 6 - boulder stones; 7 - water filling pipe (fountain); 8 - slab-steps.

The device for pipe removal of groundwater is organized using polymer pipes with a perforated surface. The pipe is laid in the ground below the freezing level. Along it, holes are made to collect water.

If it is necessary to lower the groundwater level by 3-5 m, light wellpoint systems are usually used. Such a system is based on a pipe with a wellpoint at the end.

It connects to a vacuum manifold and a pump. If it is necessary to lower the groundwater level by a large amount, such installations are arranged in several tiers.

Wellpoint installations may include ejector water lifts. Ejectors are driven by the action of a jet of water, which is pumped by a collector. With these settings, you can lower the level groundwater at 20 m.

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Water drainage

Before you start designing a system for draining groundwater, you need to decide where they will be discharged. Several options are available to choose from.

A storage system can be organized. This is the best option for regions with large seasonal fluctuations in humidity. For example, during a damp spring, water will accumulate, and in a dry summer it will be used for irrigation. Groundwater will be collected in specially designed containers. They can be left on the surface or buried if desired. Water can also be collected in an artificial reservoir, but this requires more serious material and labor costs.

If your village has general system water runoff, it makes sense to organize the drainage of groundwater into such a system. If there is free territory around the site, water can be diverted there, but in most cases this is not practical.

If there are no options for water drainage, it will have to be accumulated. For this, special tanks are brought to the site. As the tanks fill up, a sewer machine is called and they are released.

Quite often, site owners combine several methods. For example, in the spring they accumulate water in tanks, use it for irrigation in the summer, and divert what is not useful in the fall.

As a rule, the need for groundwater diversion appears only on loamy and clayey soils. Sandy soils themselves perform the function of drainage.

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Step-by-step instruction

In order to organize a traditional drainage system, you will have to perform a large volume earthworks and invest a lot of money. However, all this allows you to get a semi-automatic system. In a couple of weeks, the water itself will collect in the drainage well, as it accumulates, the owner will pump it into a ditch, storage tank or nearby free area such as a forest, field, ideally a natural reservoir. It is important that the water level in the drainage well does not exceed the desired groundwater height at the site. Otherwise, the water simply will not drain.

However, most owners, in order to save money, use a different method of organizing groundwater drainage. It is more profitable, but less efficient, than the traditional drainage system. When choosing this method, you need to be prepared for high labor costs during operation.

To install a groundwater drainage system, you need to prepare the following:

1. Shovels for digging trenches.
2. Wheelbarrow.
3. Construction level and rail.
4. Hacksaw.
5. Drainage pipes, fittings and couplings.
6. Manual rammer.
7. Wells for drainage.
8. Crushed stone, sand, geotextiles.

First, along the site, you need to dig parallel trenches at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The specific step depends on the density of the soil. If the soil is heavy, trenches should be done with a smaller step. Choose a location for the drainage well. The entire system must be made with a smooth slope in the direction of the well so that water flows into it by gravity. Use a building level to check the slope.

The ends of the trenches located below the level must be connected to each other with a new trench and taken to the drainage well. The new trench should also be sloped towards this well. If you can’t connect them according to this scheme, you will have to arrange several drainage wells.

The bottom of the trenches is covered with a mixture of gravel (rubble) and river sand. A layer of 30-50 mm thick will suffice. Drainage pipes are being laid. As a rule, polymer pipes with holes along the length are used. To prevent these holes from clogging during operation, the pipes must be wrapped with geotextile. You can also use a more durable analogue of geotextile - coconut fiber.

After laying the pipes, the trenches must be filled to the top with a mixture of gravel and sand. Everything must be arranged so that the pipes do not come into contact with the soil. They need to be surrounded on all sides with a mixture of gravel and sand.

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Drying system

Focusing on the height of plants, you can determine the depth of groundwater.

Instead of a large-scale system, point drainage can be organized. To do this, holes are prepared throughout the site with a depth of 2 m. The distance between the holes is 6 m. In most cases, it is enough to drain only some areas of the site, but this depends on the specific conditions.

The bottom of the holes is covered with the same mixture of gravel and sand. Sections of the drainage pipe are wrapped with coconut fiber (geotextile) and inserted vertically into the wells. The bottom of the segments also needs to be plugged with geotextiles. Choose a pipe of such a diameter that your drain pump can freely pass through it. The diameter of the hole depends on the diameter of the pipe wrapped with geotextile - it should be about 10 cm larger.

Such a system requires regular participation of the owner. On average, once every 1-2 weeks, you will need to take a drainage pump, place it in each well and pump out water. The work is easy and takes little time.

Water on the site has never left anyone indifferent. Both the owners of various suburban plots of land and the owners of high lands are once faced with the following question: how can you drain your land, especially in early spring- just at this time, due to melt water, the water level in the area begins to rise, albeit for a short time.

So, you need to figure out what dehumidification options are available, which ones should be used and at what time?

Land drainage options

The first option, which is the easiest and quite possible for a large number of people, is planting plantings that can hold a large number of moisture. It is rather difficult to call this method really great, but for most people it is the only way out. For example, when you need to drain a small one, and in the middle of an already planned territory there is a house. In such a situation, birches or oaks, which are considered lovers of moisture, can be best suited, and they contribute to the reduction of water in the soil.

Another effective way is the rise in the level of the soil. This is not so difficult to do - it is worth finding out where there is inexpensive land, ordering several trucks and evenly raising the earth to the required height. However, it must be remembered that it is best to do this when the house has not yet been built, otherwise there will be a risk that all the water on the earth will collect in the lowest place, namely near the house, and then it may even turn into another bad problem.

2. Water diversion from a specific piece of land.

When the soil on the site is very porous, then it simply will not be able to retain water for certain time, which is so necessary for plants to absorb it well. If, on the contrary, the soil is quite dense, then it will allow water to be retained on the very surface and, just so, it will not go directly to the roots of the plant itself. If you want to know what exactly is the density of your soil, then you should dig a small hole, about 1 m deep, and pour water into that place. If over time the water completely disappears, then your soil will be highly porous. If after a couple of days it does not disappear completely, then its density will be quite high.

What are the methods of drainage

The most effective way to do drainage is to correctly lay special pipes exactly so that they are placed underground, if done in places where the soil will be heavy and very clay, or will be peaty. It is quite possible to make such a system by means of plastic pipes, which are laid in trenches at a depth of 70 cm. Also great system, in which the pipes are placed in a herringbone pattern - in this case, there must be one main pipe, and several side pipes extending from it. Wherein largest pipe should be about 10 cm in diameter and be at a slight slope. The diameter of the side pipes can be smaller, about 7 cm. It is also necessary to see exactly where all the unnecessary water on the ground will go - it is advisable to direct the outlet somewhere into a ditch or a nearby stream. If none of this is available, then a great solution would be to build a small well, even 1 m deep, which must be built at the lowest point in your garden.

Imagine that you have already purchased a great plot for yourself, but when it rains heavily, it just turns into a swamp. All weekend you have to go there to work on this garden, however, in order to take and walk through it, you have to go bare feet- the amount of water on the ground may be such that rubber boots simply cannot help, water will make its way into them. This is very noticeable in the spring, when the entire territory can be under water. Because of this, all plantings may soon rot - in the first season it is worth deciding which drainage system to choose. To lay drainage pipes, it is worth digging a large number of ditches on the site, and pipes are very expensive.

Currently, a large number of people use a very funny drainage system that is not worth spending money on. To do this, simply collect upper layer soil right up to the very clay, and in its place various branches are dropped, as well as tree trunks. From above, you need to dump all the land that was previously collected before. This method is very simple, darker is not enough for a long time, and such actions will have to be taken all seasons - while it takes a lot of time to complete all these actions.

Own drainage system

One of best options can be called open drainage of the land. The first thing to do for this is to dig a ditch along the very perimeter of the entire territory. For this, an excavator can be suitable, which can save a lot of time, as well as effort. To enter the territory, you can easily put a pipe in the groove, and pour crushed stone on top of it. After the ditch is dug around the entire perimeter, you can make sure that all the water on the ground merges into the main ditch, which should be placed strictly along the road. In addition, using an excavator, you can make a small one in the center - it will be an excellent reservoir for water after snowmelt or heavy rains. And, of course, it is necessary to make sure that water from the entire territory can flow directly into the ditches.

Many people solve this problem by raising general level land - for this it is worth purchasing additional land. It must be remembered that 1 cu. m. of land can cover about 40 sq. m. m area on the ground, at a layer level of 25 mm. If you calculate correctly, then for a lawn you need a layer of about 10 cm, for sowing seeds - about 15 mm, but for different ornamental plants or shrubs need about 40 cm of new soil. At the same time, it is the brought land that may not be of very high quality, contain weed seeds, stones, chips, or even microbes.

Alternatively, you can increase the level of all those places where you want to grow all your plants. Plantings can be easily planted along the perimeter by allocating a strip of about 3 m for this. Leave a path of 1 m along this strip, which will be a ditch. With this same land, you can raise the level of the place where those plantings will grow in the future. Therefore, it is not necessary to acquire any excess soil, but to connect the ditch with the main ditch along the route, where all the excess water on the land will then drain.

Working with, the distance between them must be left about 50 cm, while completely removing all the earth from this distance to the clay itself, and again raising the ground level of all the beds. All water on adjoining territory will go along these ditches without moistening your beds much. As a result of all these actions, you will be able to notice that the soil level in all these places will rise much, which will have a great effect on general form your garden.

How to use garden equipment?

If you set to work on all this work, then it is much easier to do it when the earth is a little wet - although it is the heaviest, nevertheless, dry earth is more difficult to work with both a shovel and even special equipment. It is very convenient to use a motor cultivator for digging ditches. The acquisition of this technique will certainly be able to justify itself, especially if you approach it with great responsibility. Basically, it weighs about 10 kg and helps to process all the beds and do a large number of other works in the local area. The motor cultivator can plow loose soil, which after this process can be immediately dumped directly onto the beds, leaving behind a certain ditch.

Drainage effect (Video)

Just like this in a simple way you can perform a personal drainage system in your local area. It will work perfectly, there will be no flooding. Before each season, it is imperative to clean all ditches, including the main one, as well as passages with great attention so that no water remains in them at all. The big minus is that during heavy rain the ditches are filled with water, and you can move there only in one boots. However, you can forget about the fact that your plantings will suffer from excess water, since all the water in the local area now passes directly through the soil and flows directly into the ditches. But in the summer you can move around the garden in slippers alone, enjoying your personal harvest!

You can learn more about the arrangement of the drainage system in our video.