What is a tie-in to a pipeline. How to crash into a plastic water pipe: methods and necessary permits

City highway? To do this, you do not need to shut off the water, but you need to obtain permission from the water utility.

The work is done without the use of welding. But it is not excluded as another way of tie-in.

At the point of connection to the highway, it is required to build a mounting well. If you are given permission without its device, then you will have to make a tie-in in the nearest operated well. Before that, you need to prepare a trench and a pipe for laying water supply to the house.

How to crash into a water pipe without welding? For this, a saddle clamp, or saddle, is used. Such a connection can withstand pressure up to 16 atm.

What is a saddle

A clamp for tapping into a water supply under pressure resembles a coupling consisting of two halves, on one of which there is a branch pipe or a flange for tapping.

The tightness of the connection is carried out due to the gasket. It can be made in the form of a ring bordering the mortise hole. A similar product is usually made for a plastic pipeline.

The second type of gasket is a sealing layer that covers the entire inner surface of the clamp for tapping into the water supply. This model is designed for metal, cast iron and asbestos-cement highways, but is also found in plastic structures (). The material used is ethylene-propylene rubber.

Universal saddles are also produced, the basis of which is a metal strip resembling an automobile clamp.

The cost of saddle clamps from 70 rubles.

There are products with additional elements that facilitate insertion into an existing water supply system:

• with built-in cutter and side outlet to the shut-off valve;
• with a sealed tube end.

Clamps with a heating coil are also available for plastic. They are sold at a price of 1 thousand rubles and require a welding machine for operation, which is even more expensive: from 70 thousand rubles. The connection is made by electrodiffusion welding.

There are saddles made in the form of three-piece couplings for tapping into a large diameter water supply system.

saddle mount

The halves of the clamp are pulled together by two, four or six bolts paired with nuts. Twisting is done evenly, without distortion.

The selected section of the pipeline is cleaned of dirt to ensure a tight fit of the gasket. Rust is removed on the iron pipe (). Then a saddle is attached for tie-in to the water supply.

Sometimes the bolts from the kit can be so long that it is difficult to join the two halves of the clamp. This is checked before inserting and, if necessary, longer bolts are purchased from the store. It is better to buy them paired with nuts, because foreign standards may not match our sizes. This happens with Turkish goods.

If there is any doubt about the fit of the clamp or as a Turkish gasket, then a sealing paste is used, which is applied in a thin layer to the seal.

Insertion process

Depending on the manufacturing option of the saddle and additional elements, there may be various ways of inserting.

Simple Method

How to crash into a plastic water pipe? A technology will now be described that is used for both plastic and metal or other pipeline materials. It can be used by every owner of a private house. It does not require the purchase of expensive products.

A ball shut-off valve is attached to the pipe of the clamp, through which a drill is inserted, fixed in a drill. The faucet must be open. Otherwise, he is in danger of injury.

A hole is made in the pipe. Previously, in the place of drilling, punching is performed.

Carefully work when inserting into a cast-iron water pipe. She is fragile. Therefore, they drill it at low speeds, without pressing hard on the drill.

To protect against water pressure, a cut plastic bottle is used along with a cork into which the drill is screwed.

The work is done together. The assistant stands near the socket. When the water gushes, he unplugs the drill's plug from the electricity. The driller at this moment pulls the drill out of the saddle and closes the tap.

Then they install the home water line (). It can dock with the crane in different ways.

Basic connection methods:

1. Threaded.
2. With compression fittings.
3. Adhesive.
4. By soldering.

It depends on the pipe material.

Use of built-in cutter and protective valve

For tapping into a water supply system under pressure, saddles are sold, in the nozzle of which there is a built-in cutter with a turnkey hexagonal groove. To rotate the cutter, a nozzle is inserted into the groove, fixed in a wrench or drill.

At the end of the branch pipe, a sealing device is made through which the nozzle is inserted.

The trick is that the nozzle is closed by a spring-loaded valve. But as soon as you press on it with a nozzle, it opens, giving passage to the cutter.

In addition, a rubber ring is located around the circumference of the nozzle, covering the nozzle. Often this design is used when inserting into a polyethylene pipe of a water supply system.

When drilling is completed (a slight knockout of water from under the nozzle appears), the cutter is unscrewed until it touches the valve. A cap is placed on top. It is more anti-vandal than sealing.

On the side of the branch pipe there is a branch with a shut-off ball valve. Access to water opens after unscrewing the cutter. But it must be closed and opens only after the installation of the home pipeline.

More ways

Workers of the water utility use a massive sealing device to tap into a metal pipe without welding. It looks like a pipe with gaskets, which is mounted on the saddle pipe.

An attachment point is mounted on a clamp or on a line pipe and the device is attracted to it with three or four long bolts.

This design is completely sealed and does not let a drop of water through. Therefore, a manometer is provided here. When the hole is made, it will show a pressure surge across the instrument.

You can also connect to a steel pipeline by welding a branch pipe to it. Then you don't need a saddle. But here the tie-in of the pipe into the pipe, depending on the diameter, matters. This method is logical to use with a large cross section of the main pipeline.

After welding, further installation is carried out similarly to the methods described above. The main steps are installing a ball valve on a branch pipe, drilling a hole, connecting a home water supply. In this case, you need to think about the option of protecting the power tool from a jet of water.

You may be interested in the information in the following articles:

Video about tapping into a pressurized water pipe.

Laying a water pipe to a garden plot or to a built house in the country is a common thing for a country economy. But if you don’t want problems in the future, then you need to do such work correctly, without violating laws and technical standards. A plot or a house is being settled for a long time, so it is inappropriate to cheat here.

Peculiarities

All work related to the additional use of the city or village water supply system is coordinated with the local water utility. Unauthorized connection to the main pipeline or even individual to the site, to the house, apartment to the meter is an administrative violation, for which large penalties may be imposed on the guilty person. If permits are obtained, work on the main lines for inserting additional branches with a shut-off valve with a common meter should be carried out by specialists of the water utility. The applicant performs the layout of the water supply inside the house or plot on his own, but according to the plan of the premises and the profile drawing of the water supply pipelines, which were documented upon receipt of the permit.

You need to understand that any illegal connection to the water pipe of public utilities will be detected sooner or later.

Employees of water supply organizations make weekly raids to identify violators, especially in cases of large discrepancies in terms of consumption according to appliances and water consumption in fact. The violator can use water only for two days, and the fine is calculated according to the calculation formula for at least six months. The risk of being detected more than 20 times in these six months is too great. Is the game worth the candle? Of course not.

Calculation

In order not to have to do the work twice, you need to approach the issue of water supply to your site, house, additional buildings or household appliances thoroughly. To do this, you should make a competent calculation of the required water flow according to the plan and the schematic layout of the pipes of the connected sanitary facilities - a bathroom, a shower cabin, a toilet, a kitchen, with sanitary appliances (a toilet bowl with a flush tank, sinks with faucets, a shower, a washing and dishwasher machines) and irrigation facilities.

There is a formula for calculating water supply for internal water supply taking into account (according to SNiP 2.04.01-85 "Internal water supply and sewerage of buildings") the standard water consumption in l / s of each device, devices and the number of family members using them:

Qmax = 5 q, where:

• Qmax is the maximum second flow of water through one plumbing fixture;
• q is the total liquid consumption of one consumed device, determined in accordance with sanitary norms and rules;
• 5 is a coefficient determined from the tables in the annexes of SNiP, depending on the probability of a particular device and their number.

Determination of the probability of action of devices is calculated by the following formula:

P = (U Qnorm) / (q N 3600), where:

• U is the number of family members (water consumers);
• Qnorm is the total normalized water consumption by one consumer per hour of the highest water consumption (equal to 10.5 l / h);
• N is the number of such devices;
• 3600 is the time of the hour in seconds (3600 sec).

Having obtained the indicators N and P, according to their dependence in table 2 of Appendix 4 of SNiP 2.04.01-85, the coefficient is determined and the maximum second water flow through a separate device Qmax is calculated. By adding the data and converting it from seconds to hours, the daily water supply of the entire facility can be easily obtained. And already on the basis of the data obtained on the daily water consumption, the value of the minimum internal diameter of the pipe is determined, which will approach the site or house from the main or secondary water supply line. This pipe will need to be cut into the central water supply. And the calculation formula for the diameter of the pipe looks like this:

d = √[ (4 Qmax) / (V) ] m, where:

• d is the internal diameter of the calculated pipeline in meters;
• V is the water flow rate, m/s. It is assumed to be 2.5 m/s in accordance with paragraph 7.6 of SNiP 2.04.01-85, indicating that the fluid velocity in the internal water supply should not exceed 3 m/s;
• Qmax is the already calculated value of water flow per object, m³ / s.

The choice of pipe for branching depends on the pressure in the pipeline where the insert will be made, and the material from which this water supply is made. According to SNiP 2.04.02-84, SNiP 2.04.01.85 and GOST, for the normal supply of urban population with cold water for household and drinking purposes, the pressure in the supply main pipeline should be within 10 kgf / cm². Water must come to the consumer with a pressure not lower than 0.3 and not higher than 6.0 kgf / cm². It is impossible to achieve the same pressure for consumers living at different distances and heights from the water supply source. Even in one house, the water pressure will be greater in the apartments on the ground floors.

For the correct functioning of most sanitary appliances that consume water, a pressure ranging from 2 to 3.5 kgf / cm² is sufficient. For private houses outside the city, the situation is worse: not everywhere you can find a water supply network nearby, and if it exists, then its capabilities are much weaker. Pressure in rural areas rarely rises even in the main line above 2.5 kgf / cm². And for effective irrigation of the site, you need a pressure in the irrigation tap of at least 3.5 kgf / cm². In this case, you can use a booster pump with a pressure of 4–6 atmospheres.

For laying water pipes use pipes:

• ferrous steel;
• stainless steel;
• cast iron;
• plastic;
• polyethylene.

Stainless steel pipes are used by owners of elite holiday villages, as well as in important or hard-to-reach places of laying. This is done in order to exclude frequent repair work in the future with a rotten metal pipeline from Chernushka. Steel and cast iron pipelines are used for laying main lines of high and medium pressure with a diameter of 100 to 2500 mm. Sometimes high-pressure plastic pipes are used for central water lines. Secondary water lines are more often arranged from low-pressure polyethylene pipes (HDPE) with a diameter of up to 70 mm.

All further preparation depends on the pipe chosen for tie-in, namely:

• issues of ensuring safe conditions for tie-in are being resolved;
• the necessary tool and material is selected;
• the method of tapping into the water supply is determined.

The working conditions depend on where the possibility of tapping is allowed. If there is a well of the main water supply nearby, and there will also be a backup tee for the branch, then the tie-in will be the simplest option of all the others. If there is no well, then you will have to arrange it with the forces and means of the customer. To do this, a hole is dug 0.5 m deep below the level of laying the central water supply and its base is concreted with a waterproofing layer. And already on top of the base, a shaft is laid out or a concrete ring is installed. It will be easier to weld a caisson from 5 mm metal and install it in a pit. In any case, the well must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound. The outer part of the well is covered with soil, a slab with a hole for the hatch is placed on top of it.

Methods

Often the material of the water supply pipeline determines both the material of the branch line pipe and the method of tie-in. If the central or secondary pipe is steel, then it is also better to use a steel layer. In extreme cases, make a transition section in the form of a fitting from a steel pipe with a valve, to which then connect a pipeline from another material.

Insertion of steel pipes is carried out in two ways, such as:

• using a welding machine by welding the fitting to the water supply;
• by means of a steel collar without welding.

Both methods are used both for tapping into a pipeline that is under pressure and without pressure. But on high-pressure pipelines, welding is recommended only in emergency, emergency cases, as well as when organizing additional safety equipment. In the normal mode of work, actions are needed to completely turn off the section of the water supply system where the tie-in is made using welding.

The algorithm of work using welding on an existing pipeline is as follows:

• a pit is dug out by an excavator to a level above the laid pipeline by about 50 cm;
• the section of the pipe into which the tie-in is planned is manually cleared of the soil;
• the tie-in place is freed from the anti-corrosion coating and other protective layers, and the specific area for connecting the fitting or branch pipeline is cleaned to a shiny metal;
• a fitting with a tap is welded;
• after the metal heated by welding has cooled down, a drill is inserted through the tap into the fitting and a hole is drilled in the wall of the water pipe;
• when water flows through the fitting, the drill is removed and the tap is closed (the insert is made, further laying of the water supply line starts from the valve on the fitting).

The tie-in clamp is a regular part, consisting of two halves of semicircular shapes. These halves are put on the pipe and pulled together with bolts and nuts. They differ from ordinary clamps only in the presence of a threaded hole on one of the metal parts. A fitting is inserted into this hole, which serves as part of the bypass line. You can position the hole for the pipe anywhere in the water supply, and when screwing in the fitting, it will always be at right angles to the linear plane of the pipeline surface.

The rest of the process is similar to tie-in by welding: a drill is inserted into the fitting through a tap and a hole is drilled. If the outlet is of small diameter and the pressure in the water supply is within 3–4 kgf / cm², then the tap can be screwed on without problems even after drilling (if it is threaded and not welded). Connection of additional lines to the cast-iron line is also carried out using clamps.

Welding cannot be used because of the low ductility of cast iron, because it can crack in places of overheating.

Tapping into pipes made of plastic or polyethylene occurs with the help of plastic clamps or saddles (half-clamp with fasteners). Clamps and saddles are simple and welded. Working with simple devices is not much different from tie-in with a clamp into a steel pipe. And in welded saddles or clamps there is all the equipment necessary for welding. Such a saddle assembly is installed on the pipe in the intended place, the terminals are connected to electricity, and after a few minutes the tie-in will be automatically performed.

How to crash?

When the branch from the main is made by specialists, the customer can independently or with the help of the same professionals lay a line from the tap on the fitting to the site, house or separate building on its territory. Having made an input to the site, you need to install another valve either in the well (if it is installed), or install it in a convenient and warm place in the house, for example, in the basement. It will be needed for an emergency shutdown of the water supply. After the inlet valve, a small section of the pipeline is left of the same diameter as the line to the valve, from which lines of smaller diameter will go along the planned wiring. The open end of the pipe is muffled by welding and a sheet of metal of the appropriate thickness.

It may well happen that an existing water supply urgently needs to be tapped, for example, to connect an additional appliance (washing machine or dishwasher) to the water supply, or if a new private house has been built, it is necessary to supply water to it, or the old supply is clogged and needs to be replaced . But it is not always possible to turn off the water. There is only one way out - do-it-yourself tie-in into the water supply under pressure.

The essence of the process

In order for intervention in the water supply, which is filled with pressurized water, to bring minimal damage, it is necessary to figure out what and how to do. Let's start with the pipe material. Modern water pipes are mounted from metal, plastic and metal-plastic pipes. Cast iron pipes are less common.

In order to cut into such a pipeline, it is necessary to make a hole in it. It goes without saying that a jet of water will immediately “escape” from it. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for how to quickly and reliably close this hole, but so that it will be possible to subsequently attach a continuation of the branch to it. In other words, after making a hole, stop valves are cut in with the possibility of attaching an additional pipe to it. Basically, tie-in to the water supply under pressure is carried out using special clamps. The design of these devices depends on the material of the pipe.

Insert technology

Consider from a practical point of view how to make a hole in a pipe with water. There are two general rules for tapping into a pipeline:

1. The pipe to be cut must be smaller in diameter than the pipe in which the hole is made.
2. The diameter of the drill must correspond to the internal diameter of the pipe being inserted, which, in turn, must be of a smaller diameter than the pipe of the main line.

Note! When performing tie-in work, all safety precautions must be observed.

If you need to cut into metal plumbing, you will have to use a saddle clamp for tapping with drilling. It is called a saddle clamp because its lower part is a semicircle that looks like a saddle. There are several types of such clamps. Before installing this device on a pipe, it must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and rust (if any). The clamp, in addition to the “saddle”, has a shut-off valve with a hole for drilling and a drill in the upper part. Both parts on the pipe are bolted to each other. The clamp fits snugly to the surface of the pipe with the help of sealing rubber bands. After fixing it with a drill, a hole is made until water appears. Then the drill is unscrewed and the plug is closed with a special screw so that water does not flow out of the pipe. In the future, such a clamp can be used as a shut-off valve. You can also use the clamp with the valve already screwed into it.

After the hole is ready, the drill is pulled out and the valve is closed. Now you can perform other plumbing work. You can also attach a special machine to a simple metal clamp, the main elements of which are a ratchet handle, a locking bolt, a shaft with a drill at the end, and a flushing tap. All this is enclosed in a metal case and is attached to the clamp with the help of sealing rubber bands. The guide sleeve allows drilling in a given direction. It is used to drill metal and cast iron pipes.

For drilling a cast-iron pipeline under pressure, bimetallic crowns and clamps of a special design are used. The nuance of working with cast iron is that:

• work with light pressure. Cast iron is a brittle metal, it does not “work” well in compression and tension;
• pre-clean the pipe surface from a special layer applied to the surface to prevent corrosion;
• overheating of the crown should not be allowed;
• work at low speeds.

If you want to cut into a plastic pipeline, then it is better to use an electric saddle clamp. It is made of special plastic, equipped with a heating coil and a drilling mechanism. There is a bar code on the seat body that allows you to accurately enter the necessary parameters: welding and cooling times, etc. The clamp is bolted to the pre-cleaned pipe. With the help of a special welding machine, the spiral is heated and the branch is welded (terminals for welding are provided on the clamp). Further, an hour after cooling, a hole is made with a special cutter and a shut-off valve is screwed on.

Metal-plastic is mainly used for distributing water around the house or apartment. Therefore, the diameter of the pipes is small. If there is no inlet valve and there is no way to shut off the water with the help of special services (housing office, water utility), then you will have to crash under pressure to supply water to an additional point. The use of clamps in this case is not advisable due to the small diameter of the pipe. How to make such a cut? Very simple. It is necessary to prepare a water tank, a floor cloth, a tool, a valve and special fasteners. The pipe is cut. The end from which water flows is lowered into a container of water. A nut, clamp is put on it. Then a valve is inserted into it in the open position, which is clamped with a nut. Then, by closing the tap, you can continue the installation.

Peculiarities

All the proposed methods of tapping into a pressure water supply require a certain qualification of experience and the availability of special tools. After all, it is necessary to act quickly in order to prevent a large leakage of water. If the tie-in occurs in the main pipeline, which is underground, then the water pressure is quite large and it is not very pleasant to take such a “shower” even in summer. Moreover, the work is carried out with a hand tool; for safety reasons, power tools are not used. In addition, if you independently perform a tie-in into the main pipeline, you will have to obtain permission from the water supply organization - the owner of the pipeline. And this is associated with a certain paperwork, a waste of time and nerves.

When it is necessary to cut into the supply pipeline in the middle of an apartment building, slowness will cause the lower floors to be flooded.

Of course, no one can forbid a man to do such work himself, but for this it is necessary to have a set of certain tools. It doesn’t make much sense to buy them for one-time work: the tools are expensive, and after the tie-in they will just lie in the pantry or garage until the next time. Therefore, judge for yourself - how possible is an independent tie-in into the water supply under pressure. The decision, of course, is up to the person, but it is most reasonable to invite a specialist with experience in performing such work to perform such a tie-in.

Video

This video shows a tie-in into a polyethylene pipeline with a Poly16 Plus saddle with a cutter.

Metal coolant supply systems in old houses need at least modernization, or even complete or partial replacement. When it is possible to turn off the heat supply to the heating mains, the question of how to insert a pipe into the heating pipes does not even rise - they use a classic welded joint.

Insertion into the heating system can be done without welding

Advantages of hot welding

The advantage of conventional welding is that the connection can be made in any place convenient for installation, and the metal heating pipe does not need to be specially prepared for this. It is enough to clean the future welding site from the remnants of old paint and from the layers of rust that are inevitably present on metal pipes.

The tie-in occurs by supplementing the existing heating pipe with an additional heat removal circuit - the pipe is welded, sometimes with a branch pipe or a threaded transition to the connecting fitting. The configuration of the outlet circuit can have any structure that best suits the task of ensuring heat removal.

According to the building rules and regulations for laying heating networks and heating pipes, all work, including repair, insertion into a heating pipe and modernization using welding, is usually carried out on a section of the main without a coolant. The pipe is turned off and the remaining water is drained. The next step is to insert into the system.

If there is no water in the heating system, then the hot pipe welding method is used.

Method of threaded connections of heating pipes

Crashing into the system of the main heat supply line, if it is possible to shut off the supply of heated water, is also carried out by the method of threaded connections. For this you need:

• prepare the main pipe in the place where the tie-in will take place: carefully clean the pipe to the metal, removing the old paintwork;
• mark a place for a future fitting;
• using a "grinder" or a hacksaw, cut off part of the pipe at the installation site of the future outlet tee, taking into account that it will be necessary to create mating parts for the threaded connection;
• cut with a tap on pipe sections a thread with a pitch corresponding to the thread of the fitting;
• using a sealant - most often tow and oil paint - install a mortise fitting, and after the paint has dried, test the created connection by supplying a coolant under working pressure to the pipe.

Connecting heating pipes without using welding will require special tools for cutting threads on metal pipes, and skills in working with them. It is advisable to invite a certified specialist to carry out the work if there is no experience in threading pipes and creating tight joints using tow.

Threaded connections must be sealed, for this it is best to use tow

Important! In the warm season, the heating system can be filled with cold water, and this water must be drained from the system.

How to crash into heating pipes without welding

Heating systems in apartment buildings have one feature: it is not possible to turn off the heat supply to the local section of the heating system for work. Insertion into heating pipes without welding is used in such cases and requires a certain skill when performing work.

Cutting a pipe into a metal heat supply line, without turning off the coolant supply, quickly, correctly and accurately, is not possible for every master. Errors when tapping into a heating main under pressure, and any delay in work promises a large amount of water that inevitably gets inside the room. It is not recommended to tie into heating pipes without the consent of the utilities. If, nevertheless, there is a need to carry out such work on your own, in this case a special fitting will help out. The heating main, mounted from plastic pipes, also allows you to easily connect the outlet channel of a part of the coolant using connecting elements designed for this purpose.

Tapping into heating pipes without shutting off the coolant supply is carried out using a saddle with a threaded outlet

The most common method of tapping into a metal heating pipe without welding is to use a special fitting consisting of the following parts:

• a mating flange tightly attached to the back side of the tie-in, supplemented with clamp-type attachment points;
• fastening unit, with strong clamping screws;
• the upper part of the flange, supplemented with a branch pipe, and in some cases with a ball valve that shuts off the coolant supply.

The main heat supply line will have to be drilled, but this will only need to be done after installing a special fitting in place of the future tie-in. Its cost is quite high, but the connection is also considered reliable enough to make a safe tie-in.

Fitting installation sequence

The procedure for installing the fitting is as follows:

1. The fitting is installed on the main heat supply line. For the tightness of the connection, a non-drying sealant is used (it is better to use an automotive sealant), resistant to high temperatures;
2. Sealant is applied: it must be applied to the inner surface of the fitting in contact with the metal pipe. Where it is planned to drill a hole in the pipeline, there should be no sealant;
3. After installation, carefully tighten the screws of the clamp connection, it is important to avoid distortion of the fitting fastening.

Through an open valve or outlet pipe, a direct connection is made to the heat supply line. A conical drill is used, supplemented with a protective layer so as not to damage the inner surface of the outlet pipe.

The hole in the pipe is drilled after the fitting is securely attached to the pipe

Important! It is necessary to supplement the drill shank with a protective cuff so that the liquid (heat carrier) from the heat supply line does not get on the power tool that is used for drilling (drill or screwdriver).

When solving the issue of tie-in into the heating system, it becomes clear that metal pipes are not the best option. Despite their prevalence, metal pipes have ceased to be a universal and convenient solution for arranging thermal and plumbing systems. They were replaced by a generation of metal-plastic pipes, the advantage of which is that:

• plastic pipes are not subject to corrosion;
• the pipeline made of polypropylene components is lightweight and quickly mounted;
• the ability to quickly repair and upgrade the system with your own hands remains;
• there is no need to use sophisticated equipment for the installation and transportation of polypropylene pipes.

Tapping into thin water pipes is carried out using the so-called "saddle" - a branch fitting with clamping clamps. The clamping collar is also used for tapping into the sewer system. The basic principle of a "saddle" with clamping collars is to provide tapping and connection to low pressure systems.

For the heating main, especially in multi-storey buildings, the use of fragile, cheap fittings is unacceptable. Alteration of internal heating communications will allow to regulate the level of heat transfer of each heating convector. It is enough to supplement the heating radiators with taps for adjusting the coolant supply and a “bypass” - a heated water return circuit.

With the help of fittings, you can crash into a heating system assembled from plastic pipes

An insert in the heating communication of the collector groups - on the mains of the direct and return supply of the coolant - allows you to repair or modify the system at any time and without turning off the general water supply. The advantage of the collector circuit is that each consumer is provided with autonomous adjustment of the coolant supply level. If you use the multi-circuit principle of connecting heating radiators with a collector group, you can create an economical and unpretentious heat supply system.

The disadvantage of such a scheme - an increase in the length of the highway - is compensated by the ability to independently modernize or repair the system without the involvement of specialists.

trubamaster.ru

Tapping into a pipe without welding: technology for welding and plunging work

When assembling and connecting water supply systems or its discharge, it often becomes necessary to connect pipes without involving welding. Let's take a closer look at how a tie-in is made into a pipe without welding when laying pipe structures made of different types of materials.

How to connect pipes without welding

There are several ways to connect pipes to the main line without welding. Some of them are classified as one-piece, which is almost impossible to disassemble without destroying the pipeline. Others are detachable joints that can be easily dismantled and, if necessary, reassembled.

The choice of option depends on what material the pipe is made of.

Connecting pipes without welding, without having any special skills, is a feasible task even for a novice master; you just need to strictly follow the installation instructions

All pipe rolling is divided into two main groups:

• hard - pipes made of cast iron, copper and steel;
• flexible - products are made of polymeric materials (polypropylene, metal-plastic, polyethylene).

This separation is based on the need to use a larger engagement area at the moment of joining parts of polymer structures. For comparison: tie-in of metal pipes can be performed under limited conditions, using the minimum engagement area of ​​the joined parts.

Articulation of profile pipes

The most affordable way to articulate profile pipes is by installing mounting clamps. With the help of these simple devices, it is convenient to assemble any type of small-sized metal structures, erecting sheds and racks, greenhouses and fences, canopies and modular partitions.

The use of mounting clamps makes it possible to ensure the connection of pipeline elements, the stability and strength of which is not inferior to welded

The indisputable advantage of using fasteners is the ease of installation and the ability to disassemble the assembled structure an unlimited number of times.

To implement this method, you need only three components:

1. Rolled tubular cut to size.
2. Required number of fasteners.
3. Wrench.

Crab clamps can be "X", "G" and "T"-shaped elements, with the help of which it is convenient to dock straight sections of pipes, corner structures and simultaneously connect up to four segments within one node. When assembled, they have the shape of a square or rectangle, the sides of which tightly wrap around the joined parts of metal pipes.

Crab clamps are made of galvanized or powder-coated sheet metal having a thickness of 1.5 mm

Fasteners with crabs should not cause any particular difficulties. Insert the cut pipes into the clamp and fix the pressure sticks by tightening the bolts on the system by anyone. But this method can only be used for profile pipes with a cross section of not more than 20 x 20 mm, 20 x 40 mm and 40 x 40 mm. In addition, the docking of elements can only be done at right angles.

It is also possible to connect square pipes without welding by installing fittings of a given profile.

For joining and tie-in pipes, an adapter coupling is used, the diameter of which is one unit larger than the cross section of the joined structural elements

Fasteners in the form of fittings are of several types:

• Couplings - at the docking points on straight sections.
• Crosses and tees - for installation in places of branching;
• Elbows and turns - if necessary, change the direction of the pipeline.

With the help of fittings, it is possible to obtain fixed fasteners, the only weak spot of which is only susceptibility to corrosion, which is typical for the ends of the joined elements inserted into it. This situation occurs as a result of the accumulation of condensate inside the fasteners, provided that the metal pipes are not treated with an anti-corrosion compound.

Methods for inserting metal pipes

The choice of the optimal tie-in method depends on the type of pipes to be installed and their operating conditions. Connections can be made at 90 and 45 degree angles, positioned vertically up or to the side.

Threaded connection option

By means of a threaded connection, non-pressure systems are assembled, for example, drainage systems made of steel and cast iron or stainless steel chimneys.

Threaded connections are arranged only in sections of the pipeline where it is possible to control the reliability of the connection, and if necessary, it will not be difficult to tighten it

In most cases, pipe threads are rolled on special equipment. But if desired, this procedure can be done manually using a cutting tool equipped with teeth - dies. To do this, cut off the workpiece of a given length, making a margin for the allowance for the threaded part.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Pipe sections are strengthened in a locksmith's vice, thereby eliminating the risk of scrolling the workpieces.
2. To facilitate the fixation of the die, a chamfer is removed from the outer part of the blanks at an angle of 45 °.
3. On the stripped end of the pipe, a die is carefully baited, carefully watching to prevent distortion. If one is found in the very first circles, the die must be removed, the workpiece should be tapped, and the procedure should be started over again.
4. The baited plate is gradually wound onto the pipe. After several turns, you need to use the level to check the correctness of the cutting.
5. Having completed the pipe cutting to the required length, remove the tool by turning it in the opposite direction along the finished thread.

If the tool stops turning at some point, you need to make one turn in the opposite direction and remove the stuck piece of chips from the thread, then continue working. To simplify the work of creating a threaded connection, it is recommended to lubricate the ends of the workpieces and the cutting tool with machine oil.

The threaded connection needs a seal, the role of which can be performed by sanitary winding using flax fibers or FUM tape

If you have to cut in conditions where the pipe is close to the wall, it is quite difficult to complete a complete rotation of the tool around the pipe. The use of die holders will help facilitate the task. They are equipped with ratchet mechanisms.

Before tightening the threaded connection, it is important to make sure that there are no settled chips or burrs on the ends of the pipes. Threading should be done with some force.

Flange Mounting

This connection method is chosen to create a detachable pipe connection in cases where it is necessary to join elements without welding and without threading. Flanges are flat rings with or without connecting lugs, which are provided with holes for studs and bolts.

To create such a connection, a fitting is used, called a flange, which has a truncated cone at the end and is equipped with a rubber gasket

The assembly sequence of the assembly with a flange connection:

1. In the place of the proposed tie-in, a pipe cut is made, maintaining a right angle. There is no need to make a chamfer at the end of the pipe, it is enough just to create the most even cut line.
2. A flange is put on a cut cleaned from burrs.
3. For tightness of the connection, a rubber gasket is inserted so that it protrudes 10 mm beyond the cut line.
4. A flange is pushed onto the gasket. It is connected to the mating part installed on the end of the second pipe to be joined, and fixed by screwing the bolts.

When tightening the bolts of the connecting flanges, it is important not to overtighten so as not to damage the fragile elements of the assembly.

When joining the elements of the assembly, the flange put on the pipe is combined with the second mating part of the fastener and fastened with clamping bolts

The tightening must be carried out evenly, carefully wrapping the fastener threads around the entire circumference. It is better to tighten the nuts of the counterparts of the flange not sequentially, but in pairs. To do this, it is recommended to tighten fasteners diametrically opposed to each other.

By mounting couplings

Crimp fittings are used to obtain a tight connection of both non-pressure and pressure pipelines. Collets or compression fittings are equipped with ferrules, which are “tightly” pressed during installation.

Couplings are a type of fittings that are used to build up straight segments of the pipeline. They are effective in assembling a rectilinear system in the house.

Couplings are conveniently used for the articulation of pipes having different diameters and made of different types of materials. They are ideal when it is necessary to connect plastic pipes to metal ones.

Tapping into a pipe using a coupling is performed in the following sequence:

• The ends of the pipes to be connected are cut strictly at right angles.
• A coupling is applied to the junction, placing it in such a way that the central part of the device is located strictly along the connection line.
• Marks are made on the pipes indicating the correct position of the fitting.
• The ends of the pipes and the inner cavity of the coupling are treated with a liquid sealant.
• The end of the first and second pipes are successively buried in the coupling. Both blanks are aligned strictly along the axis.
• When putting on the fitting itself, they are guided by the previously applied markings.

The connection using the Gebo coupling has also found wide application. This compression fitting is equipped with a pressure ring and a sealing ring. The element can be mounted without any special tools.

Working with polymer reinforcement

Making a tie-in into a polymer pipe is even easier. One of the methods does not require complicated and most accurate cutting of the pipeline at all. This is especially true when it is necessary to insert plastic elements of large diameters, which can be deformed under the action of the insert.

Insert with pipe installation

To implement this method, it is necessary to purchase a piece of pipe equipped with a pipe in advance at a hardware store. The diameter of the workpiece must correspond to the cross section of the water pipe.

A pipe of such a shape is cut out of the purchased blank so that one of its ends is equipped with a “half-pipe” type element, the main task of which is to ensure that the place of the future tie-in is covered

The finished workpiece will create, as it were, the second wall of the pipe. In the workpiece fixed on the pipe, a hole is drilled with a core drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the size of the branch pipe.

Liquid silicone sealant is applied to the inner surface of the flange to be mounted. The area around the hole is covered with the same composition, not reaching the cut line by 1 cm. The prepared flange is mounted on the pipe.

To tighten the edges on both sides, additionally use two fasteners. They should be tightened very carefully so as not to squeeze the sealant out from under the flange. Remove the remaining glue that has come out with a napkin.

If you have to tie-in on a plastic pipeline, the system pressure of which is minimal, instead of a flange, you can safely use a wide construction tape.

Mounting adapter and saddle

For tight and at the same time quick connection of the pipeline, it is convenient to use ready-made elements:

• Adapters - used for inserting pipes D 100-110 mm.
• Saddles - choose for tapping thin pipes D 32-40 mm.

The saddles are two-piece crimp structures that are convenient to install if necessary, tie-in to an open system.

On sale there are modern models of the device, equipped with a heating coil and a cutting cutter, with which a hole is made.

To set the required accuracy of the welding parameters, it is necessary during the procedure to focus on the barcode located on the body of the part

Crashing into a pipe with an adapter is pretty easy. The work is carried out in several stages:

1. If the pipe is connected to communications, shut off the water in the system.
2. In the right place, using an electric drill equipped with a crown, a suitable hole is made.
3. An adapter is installed on the prepared area, not forgetting to lay a soft rubber seal.
4. Tighten the structure with bolts.

If bolts are not provided in the design of the embedded element, building sealant is used for fixing. To do this, the composition is applied to a fat-free surface. The nut is carefully tightened, and the excess funds that come out are removed.

Connection of asbestos-cement pipes

Asbestos-cement pipe products, the material for the manufacture of which is Portland cement mixed with asbestos fibers in a ratio of 4: 1, are connected by installing couplings and fittings.

The choice of method depends on the operating pressure in the system:

• For pipes with a working pressure within 3 kgf / cc, when inserting, use asbestos-cement double-breasted couplings equipped with rubber seals. Segments 150-200 mm long have a slightly larger diameter than the size of the connected pipes.
• For pressure pipelines with a working pressure of 3 kgf / cc, special fittings are used, referred to as Zhibot couplings. They are collapsible structures with flanges and cast-iron bushings, complemented by sealing rubber rings.

In both versions, sealing rubber rings play a key role in achieving joint tightness.

When choosing fittings and couplings for inserting asbestos-cement pipes, the main attention is paid to the elasticity of the sealing rings of the fasteners

The technology for making a tie-in using couplings and fittings is the same as when working with metal fittings. The only thing is that since asbestos-cement products are quite fragile, the tie-in should be done with the utmost care.

Video examples of tie-in

How you can crash into a pipe without using a welding machine, you can see in the following videos.

Tapping into a plastic pipe by installing a coupling:

Insertion option with ball valve installation:

There are many connection methods that are a worthy alternative to strong and reliable welding. The main thing is to competently approach the choice of the best option and carry out the insert, strictly adhering to the technology.

sovet-ingenera.com

About some problems of tapping into a pipe

Why do I need a tie-in into a pipe without welding? In fact, not every pipe can be welded, and sometimes work must be done without disconnecting consumers. Then welding is possible, but with special devices and when using sophisticated equipment. But you can crash into a sewer, or a PVC pipe, or even a metal one, without using a welding machine.

It is possible to insert pipes without welding, but this will require certain material costs and the availability of special equipment.

Ways of tapping into a pipe without welding

The easiest, if you can turn off the media supply, is to cut the pipe, cut the threads with a tap and install a suitable fitting, which will have one or two outlets. This tie-in is simple, takes little time and, if consumers can wait, is the preferred option.

A more complicated way is tie-in using a flange and clamps.

1. It consists in the fact that a flange is installed at the right place of the pipe where it is necessary to crash, which matches in diameter. We fix it with clamps, having previously smeared it with a good sealing compound.
2. Welding is not required if the flange has the required tap.
3. On the outlet, we will pre-cut the thread and prepare everything for installation. Especially a bucket if we work with a water pipe.
4. After everything is mounted, through the outlet we drill a hole in the pipe with a large drill, after which we twist the connection as quickly as possible. The faster you fasten, the less water will leak.

In this way, without welding, you can crash into almost any pipe. These are the two main methods, everything else is just their variations.

What does it make sense to consider when tapping without welding?

The first is the material of the product, the second is the diameter. For example, a fitting of the same diameter cannot be put on a metal pipe, and it is possible to achieve a tight fit with the help of clamps if a metal pipe is taken for the fitting, in which the inner diameter is equal to the outer diameter.

The use of fittings is of little use when inserting pipes of large diameters.

For large diameter pipes, tie-in by cutting and installing fittings is of little use. Think about how you will connect the cut sewer pipe with any type of coupling, and the desire to experiment with labor costs will disappear by itself. But in everyday life this is the most common case, for example, when you need to embed a drain from a dishwasher or washing machine. Cut the plastic pipe. Given the specifics of the connectors, it is unlikely that it will be possible to restore the connection (and not without welding) without emergency assistance from specialists.

Therefore, common sense or expert advice will not be superfluous. Remember that you first need to decide how, with what, in what way and with what tools the tie-in will be made without welding, and only after thinking everything over, weighing and preparing, you can start it.

To insert a branch for a washing machine, you will need: a drill, a metal strip, a clamp, a FUM tape and a large-diameter drill.

We will cut the outlet from the washing machine into a plastic sewer pipe. We have it half-walled into the wall, but we don’t want to mount another input into the siphon, there are already two outlets there.

So let's prepare:

• drill;
• metal strip;
• clamp (fix the outlet from the machine);
• FUM tape;
• large diameter drill.

1. We put on a clamp on the outlet, which fixes the metal strips. They already have holes for wall mounting;
2. We skip water to clean the sewer pipe a little (there will be less smell).
3. We drill a hole in the pipe, and if the drill is thin, with a file or a knife, in a circular motion, we expand the hole so that it remains round and is slightly smaller than the diameter of the outlet.
4. After that, we wrap the outlet with FUM tape, insert it tightly, making sure that it is securely fixed. If necessary, wind up the FUM tape (you should not regret it).
5. Now we mark the holes on the wall for fixing the metal tapes, drill the holes and twist the dowels, fixing the clamp on the outlet as tightly as possible. Such fixation will prevent it from falling out of the pipe, and given that the pressure in such a system is very low, this connection will last a long time.
6. It is better, of course, to coat the edges of the connection with a sealing compound, because when the sealant seizes, it will be an additional connection. It is clear that in the case of a more accessible place of work, everything can be done easier, but this tie-in is the most difficult.

Before use, the corrugation should be carefully aligned.

In the case of the presence of corrugations, it is almost impossible to ensure an exact abutment, and preliminary preparation is necessary here.

1. The most important thing is to achieve alignment of the corrugations before insertion, and this must be done from a material that will hold securely and durable.
2. It should be smeared between the corrugations with excess, the residues after drying should be removed.
3. Next, it is necessary to achieve the immobility of the corrugated pipe at the tie-in point, which can be ensured by rigid structures fixed with clamps. For example, 3-4 nails (weaving or more) are suitable as reinforcement.
4. After the place is prepared, you can crash in the same way as into a smooth pipe.

https://experttrub.ru/youtu.be/UV4R-8Zxvrw

Other tapping methods are not so laborious, but remember that the process of tapping without welding requires thoughtfulness, accuracy and readiness for an emergency.

Quite often, you will encounter such a problem in the water supply that you may need an extension to connect an additional plumbing unit or create a new circuit. When tapping into a central or domestic water main, a clamp is used to tap into the water supply. At the same time, it is extremely important to follow the safety rules and strictly follow the sequence of steps.

But it is not always possible to turn off the water. There is only one way out in this situation - tie-in into the water supply under pressure on your own. Consider how to crash into a water pipe of their cast iron, metal or plastic.

To carry out a tie-in into a pipe without welding, and with it, you need to have the appropriate documents and permits on hand. It is worth remembering that illegal tapping into a public water pipe entails both administrative and financial liability. How to make a tie-in into the water supply under pressure correctly, observing all the rules and regulations?

First you need to get a site plan in order to find out about the passage of any other communications underground. This paper, along with other necessary documents, can be obtained at the water utility department. They should indicate:

• connection point;
• pipeline diameter;
• other data depending on the purpose of the insert.

After that, the necessary data must be submitted to the SES, where they must develop and register design estimates. Independent installation of recording devices and tapping into a pipe under pressure is strictly prohibited. In order to carry out these works, you need to seek the help of specialists.

Tapping into a common pipeline bypassing metering devices into a large-diameter main network that feeds the house is strictly prohibited, it is also forbidden to crash into a pipeline without a connection to a central sewerage system and into a water supply system of any diameter if there are no relevant documents on hand.

Pipe insertion process and rules

When choosing a method of tapping into a water pipe, you need to build on its material. Today, plumbing systems are built from plastic, metal, metal-plastic and a little less often from cast-iron pipes. In order to carry out the insert, you need to get a hole.

Naturally, when performing these works under pressure, water will come out of the pipe. Therefore, for work, special clamps are used, the device of which depends on the material from which the pipes are made.

There are two general rules to follow when tapping:

1. The drill diameter must be equal to the diameter of the pipe to be inserted.
2. The diameter of the pipe to be cut must be less than the diameter of the pipe into which it is cut.

The method of inserting into the main line directly depends on the type of water supply. The most common methods are welding and the use of clamps. Clamps are needed in cases where there is a pressurized tie-in into a water pipe or when there is no possibility of cutting the line. Carrying out work on a water supply system constructed from polyethylene pipes excludes the use of gas and electric welding.

The design and configuration of the clamps is very different. But the most requested are:

• clamp-clip - its use for tapping into a water main is possible only when it is not under pressure. The design of the clamp consists of a pair of parts, one of which has a threaded outlet. The clamp is clamped with bolts and can be either plastic or metal;
• saddle clamp - used for tapping under pressure into a pipeline made of plastic, metal or asbestos cement. It must be attached to the pipeline with a bracket. As a rule, this collar is made of metal and equipped with a locking plate or a special mechanism;
• drilling clamp - necessary for tapping into a pipe that is under pressure. In addition to it, nozzles and swivel connectors can go. For mounting the clamp on a steel, plastic or cast iron pipe, it is necessary to use special equipment;
• electrowelded clamp-saddle - its device includes a rotary-bolt mechanism. In the future, it can be used as an adjusting or shut-off valve. It is used for tapping into a pipeline constructed from plastic pipes. The design of the clamp includes a heating coil and a cutter for making a hole. The body of this clamp is made of special plastic and requires the use of additional equipment for its installation.

If welding is used, a thread or an additional coupling is welded to the pipe, a root valve will subsequently be planted on these connection elements. The water supply at this moment should not be turned off and the water should not be drained.

The main stages of tapping into a household pipeline

With the help of a tie-in, you can equip a branch from the main line of the home water supply, where you can later connect an additional water intake point or irrigation system.

If the main source of water is a well, then the tie-in to the main can be carried out anywhere. In the case of centralized water supply, the insert is made only after the water consumption meter.

In the internal network, water can be shut off at any time by simply shutting off the central valve. Therefore, for tapping in this case, you only need a simple tee, and the workflow itself is as follows:

• it is necessary to close the central valve, and then open the “lowest” tap to drain water from the pipes;
• after which the pipeline is divided in the right place with the help of a grinder or a pipe cutter. Before carrying out this operation, it is necessary to place a tray under the place of the future cut, this is done so that the remaining water after draining does not leak onto the floor. After that, it is necessary to cut out a section from the pipeline, the dimensions of which will coincide with the length of the tee;
• the next step is the direct installation of the tee. The tee cuts into a plastic pipeline as a standard electrical coupling, the joints are soldered using a welding machine;
• the final step is to install a shut-off valve in the outlet of the tee, with which it will be possible to block a new branch of the water supply. After that, you can open the central valve and start using the water supply.

The installation of a new line can be carried out with the water supply running, since the branch of the tee is blocked by a separate shut-off valve.

This sequence of steps is applicable to pipes made of cast iron, plastic and metal.

How to crash into the highway?

The main tool for carrying out these works is a special mechanism for drilling water pipes under pressure. This method is quite productive and fast, if you strictly follow the safety rules and strictly follow all the technological steps.

Stages of removal of the main pipeline under pressure:

1. Excavation.
2. Cutting process.
3. Implementation of water supply.

At the time of excavation, it is necessary to dig a pit measuring 1.5 x 1.5 meters. Its bottom should be 50 cm below the pipe. At first, work can be done with an excavator until a metal or polymer tape is reached, which is laid above the pipe at a distance of 30-50 cm, after which work is done only with the help of shovels. If the insertion point is located in the well, this stage is excluded.

1. With the help of a hole in the saddle or a collapsible clamp, the wall of the reinforcement is punctured. This conjugation element is more like a tee. A shut-off valve is screwed onto the side outlet, the task of which is to shut off the flow of water after a puncture.
2. To install plastic pipes, you can use ordinary saddle clamps or saddle clips.
3. The ideal solution for a saddle for polymer pipes is an electrowelded collapsible clamp. Disassembled into two parts, it is mounted above the tie-in and soldered to the pipe using a welding machine. Thanks to this method, a tight and high-strength connection is obtained.
4. The final stage is the removal of the water supply from the main line. A new branch of the water supply begins at the valve of the saddle, and ends at the water meter.
5. If you want to crash into communications located underground, then you must first dig a hole at the location of the pipeline.

In order to simplify the operation of the outlet, a caisson is installed above the installation site of the embedded pipe. It is equipped, starting with deepening the pit by 50-70 cm. The place of the selected soil is filled with a pillow of gravel 20 cm thick. After that, roofing material is laid on the gravel and a concrete slab 10 cm thick is poured, which is reinforced with a reinforcement grid.

Features of tapping into a water supply system made of metal, cast iron and plastic

In order to crash into a metal pipeline, a saddle clamp with drilling is used:

1. Before starting the installation of the device on the pipe, it must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt (if any) and rust. In addition to the lower part, which has the shape of a semicircle, in the upper part of the clamp there is a valve with a hole for drilling directly under the drill. After the clamp is installed on the pipe, its parts are bolted together.
2. After the clamp is fixed, a hole is drilled and closed with a plug using a special screw. This clamp can be used as a stop valve. You can also use a clamp with an already installed valve. After the hole is ready, the drill is pulled out and the valve is closed. After that, other necessary installation work is performed.
3. A special machine can be attached to a metal clamp, which consists of a handle with a ratchet, a locking bolt, a shaft with a drill at the end and a flushing valve. Everything is enclosed in a metal case, which is attached to the clamp with the help of rubber bands. Due to the fact that there is a guide sleeve, you can drill in a certain direction. In this way, a tie-in is made into a water pipe made of cast iron or steel.

Tapping into a plastic pipeline without reducing the pressure on it is possible using an electric-welded saddle clamp. It is made of special plastic and has a heating coil with a drilling mechanism. A barcode is applied to the body of this clamp, which allows you to enter welding characteristics with the required accuracy.

1. The pipe must be cleaned in advance and, with the help of bolts, fasten the clamp to it, which has terminals for connecting the welding machine.
2. With the help of a welding machine, the spiral is heated and the branch is welded.
3. These days, the saddle with a built-in cutter and valve is most often used. In order to make a tie-in into the water supply by welding, use a coupling.
4. After everything has completely cooled down, it is necessary after an hour to make a hole with a cutter and screw on the shut-off valve.

This method is applicable for a pipeline with a pressure of up to 1.6 MPa.

In order to drill a cast-iron pipe under pressure, clamps are used, which have a special design and bimetallic crowns. In this case, the crown should not overheat, and work should be carried out at low speeds.

Stages of work when inserting a water pipe into a cast-iron pipe:

• it is necessary to dig out the pipe and clean it from rust at the tie-in point;
• using a grinder, cut off the top layer of red-hot cast iron;
• install a collapsible saddle, in order to seal the joint between the fittings and the clamp, it is necessary to put a rubber seal;
• the shut-off valve must be attached to the flange outlet, a crown (cutting tool) will be inserted through it;
• drill a cast-iron pipe, cooling the cut;
• the crown is removed from the valve and the flow of water is blocked.

The pipe is drilled with a carbide crown, which will need to be changed at least 3-4 times during the entire process. Also, do not forget that it is necessary to ensure the slope of the saddle pipe in the direction of the house at 2 degrees.

For tapping into a cast-iron pipe, you need to use drills designed to work with metal!

Welding installation of a branch pipe to a steel water supply should be done only by qualified specialists. Installation of saddles on a cast-iron or polymer pipeline is done independently, but for this it is necessary to turn off the water supply. Tapping under pressure must be carried out taking into account all the rules and recommendations, otherwise these works may lead to a danger to health and material values.