Do I need to pinch the asters. Annual aster: planting seedlings in a permanent place and caring for asters

|| Sowing seeds in protected ground || Sowing seeds in open ground || Seedlings || Lawn Care || Lawn from seeds || Paving || First steps in pruning || Pinching and pinching || Cuttings || Reproduction by layering || Root layers || Berry crops || Miniature fruit trees || Shrubs || Herbaceous perennials || Bulbs, rhizomes, corms, tubers || Curly and creepy

Pinching and pinching are simple, but necessary garden work. It is only important to know which plants need it and when.

Dahlias require regular grooming. 3-4 weeks after planting, they need to be carefully pinched, removing the main shoots. Over time, withering flowers should be cut.

You may have been doing this work without knowing it. It consists in removing, often simply by pinching off with your fingers, the buds of a new growth. This allows the plant to concentrate on producing fewer flowers or fruits, but more beautiful or larger ones. New buds are laid in the axil of the leaf (the place where the leaf cutting is attached to the stem). Leaves and flowers can develop from them, and later, probably, fruits.

growth control. In many plants, the development of buds located down the stem is inhibited by the main stem growth point. Therefore, gardeners pinch the top of the stem with a growing point to allow the lateral buds to grow; the plant in this case becomes more magnificent. Such a procedure does not stop the growth of the apex at all - after a while it resumes. Not all plants in the garden need to be pinched; it all depends on your goals. If you are preparing flowers for a show, you will need to pinch or pinch the plants. Faded heads are often removed due to their untidy appearance, but there may be other reasons.

Many early flowering herbaceous perennials can be made to bloom a second time by cutting them. Other plants manage to extend the flowering period by regularly removing old, dead flowers. Under natural conditions, plants flower to attract pollinators and produce seeds for the survival and spread of the species. But the development of seeds takes a lot of effort. So that it does not affect flowering in the next season, it is better to prevent it in plants using bulbs, corms, rhizomes or tubers for vegetative propagation. Plants will consistently bloom every year if they are not allowed to form seeds. They will even try to produce more flowers, as if hoping to eventually get seeds. Some plants easily produce seeds that self-sow throughout the area. You don't have to allow it if you don't want them to overrun everything.

How it's done. In some plants, for example, heathers, lavender, a number of herbs, flowers are formed on long, elongated shoots. Cut them off so as not to weaken the plant and so that the elongated stems that are bare at the base do not spoil the appearance of the plant. Garden shears and single-handled shears are useful for cutting heathers and related plants and for removing faded flowers from a number of large herbaceous perennials. In flowers like pansies, old flowers are most conveniently plucked with thumb and forefinger. Scissors are good for stronger stems, secateurs are good for woody plants. When removing flowers from bushes, cut the branch back to the previous bud, usually at the leaf axil. If the side shoot is ready to grow, cut back to it.

Carnations. Flowers are cut off from garden carnations to prolong flowering; greenhouse, constantly flowering (for sale) varieties require more attention. Carnations with several flowering shoots do not stepchild, but pinch. However, varieties with single flowers and early flowering ones do not pinch, they are stepchildren! Carnations with several shoots are formed by pinching the first small pair of leaves two to three weeks after planting. This stimulates the growth of side stems, but slows down flowering. Carnation stems are articular. Buds in two or three nodes at the base of the stems are removed from carnations with single branches. Others, higher up the stem, are left with buds. Having found the point of growth (the main flower bud), you must remove the six lying below. Cut off the main stem with the flower above the node with the bud. After such pinching, the remaining buds will develop into healthy side shoots and will bloom.

Chrysanthemums. For annuals, pinching the upper bud is beneficial, they grow into lush bushes that serve as an ornament to any flower bed. They are often cut for bouquets; removing inflorescences, you will extend the period of their flowering. For winter-hardy perennials, it is enough to remove faded inflorescences. Delicate chrysanthemums are distinguished by the type of flowers, size and season. Only large and medium-flowered varieties stepchild. However, pinch the growth point of all chrysanthemums that have reached a height of 15 cm to stimulate the growth of side shoots. Then you remove one or two side shoots from each stem daily until you have the number of shoots you need - usually about six for flower beds and bouquets, but two or three for exhibition specimens.

The growing point is then removed again, as this bud is larger and blooms earlier than the side ones. Even if this flower bud has not formed in early summer, the growth point is still pinched, otherwise the growth of lateral buds will slow down. The remaining stems now produce their own side shoots with buds. They are removed as they grow, leaving one inflorescence on each stem. Other side shoots growing on the flowering stem are also pinched off. Remove them every one to two days. If in chrysanthemums with non-removed buds, which are going to form side shoots, the bud at the point of growth outstrips the surrounding buds in growth, it should be pinched off.

pasynkovanie

The side shoot of the chrysanthemum has a growth point and other buds below. Remove the lower buds to get one good flower.

Dahlias. Pinch the top bud a month after planting in a flower bed, when strong shoots appear. If you are preparing them for a show, limit the number of side shoots. Dahlias are distinguished by the shape and size of the flowers. Leave "giants" (over 25 cm) 2-3 stems, large (20-25 cm) - 3-4 stems, medium (15-20 cm) - up to 5-7 stems, small (10-15 cm) - up to 8-10 and "miniature" (less than 10 cm) - up to 10-12 stems. Also, when growing pom-pom dahlias, pinch off side shoots as soon as they produce two leaves. This will produce a mass of 5 cm flowers. When removing faded flowers, cut them back to the emerging lateral shoot. This will prevent the plant from becoming long, thin, with a hanging top.

Roses. Some roses will form two or three buds at the point of pruning, you only need to leave one of them. If you leave everything, they will give weak stems. When preparing hybrid tea roses for exhibition, inspect the stems and remove excess flowers that may have grown on a single stem. Cut off all flowers except one. When removing faded roses, cut back to the first five-leaf leaf below the flower. When cutting faded floribunda roses, make sure you remove the entire "bunch" of flowers down to the first five-leafed leaf on the main stem. Since removing the growing point on re-blooming roses encourages new growth, do it in early fall. Otherwise, tender young shoots will be killed by early frosts. Buds below old flowers are best left dormant so they can grow next spring.

Sweet pea. It must be pinched off as soon as two or three true leaves appear, as the first shoot usually does not bear flowers, although it stretches up to 1 meter. After pinching, the plant will produce two shoots from the base, both of which will bloom.

Plants to be pinched. Herbaceous perennials with a single flowering until late summer: gravel (Geum), lungwort (Pulmonaria), delphinium and geranium (Geranium). Sweet pea. Garden carnations. Plants that form bulbs, corms, tubers and rhizomes. Plants in flower beds: dahlias, African marigolds, nemesia, pelargonium (Pelargonia), pansies. Repeat flowering roses. Self-seeding plants: mantle (Achemilla), ornamental bows (Allium), watersheds (Aquilegia).

Plants that do not pinch. Plants with beautiful dried flower heads; seeds or fruits grown for decoration: moonflower, hydrangea, poppy. Most of the flowers in the flower beds. Bushes that bloom once a year: lilac, viburnum, fragrant mock orange. Plants sensitive to cold in cold gardens where old flower heads protect new buds: Hydrangea. Fruits and fruits intended for food, decoration or planting: pyracantha (Pyracantha), quince (edible and ornamental varieties), cotoneaster, wild roses with ornamental fruits.

Ecology of knowledge. How to care for asters so that they have a compact appearance, bloom for a long time and do not get sick? Asters seeds are best sown before winter in open ground in late autumn. Can also be sown in spring. To do this, in the fall, a new place is allocated for a seedling bed. It is made at least 20 cm high so that in spring the earth warms up faster.

How to care for asters so that they have a compact appearance, bloom for a long time and do not get sick?

Aster seeds are best sown before winter in open ground in late autumn. Can also be sown in spring. To do this, in the fall, a new place is allocated for a seedling bed. It is made at least 20 cm high so that in spring the earth warms up faster. Pre-add ripe humus, scatter "Kemira" and dig it up. In early April, if the snow has not yet melted, sprinkle wood ash on the bed, and in two weeks it is ready for sowing. Loosen the surface with a chopper, level and make edges along the edges so that water does not drain when watering.

Seeds are a must! treat against fungal diseases with any fungicidal agent. And also carry out hardening with variable low temperatures.

Store seeds for sowing in the winter on the refrigerator door. Remove a week before sowing to keep warm. Etch in a strong solution of potassium permanganate and soak in Epin, then rinse and dry on a newspaper. You can sow the next day, prepared seeds cannot be stored for a long time.

Asters prefer to grow on loamy soils. Asters do not tolerate fresh humus in the soil and are often affected by fungal diseases.

The abundance and duration of flowering is achieved by top dressing, which is carried out regularly. The first top dressing is done as soon as the plants are actively growing. Then two feedings are carried out in June, then in July.

Asters do not grow well in dry soils, so watering should be regular. Plant development depends on watering. With enough moisture, the bushes have a longer flowering.

Do not forget about loosening the soil, the rule applies here: today watering - loosening tomorrow.

To make aster bushes look beautiful and have a compact shape, be sure to pinch the tops of the stems.

ASTER DISEASES:

Fusarium

How to define this disease? The first signs are drooping inflorescences and leaves. Do not process a diseased specimen! It urgently needs to be removed from the flower garden and burned! And treat healthy plants with a fungicide.

Septoria

Septoria appears as brown spots on the leaves, the leaves begin to turn yellow. Plants are recommended to be treated with copper-containing preparations at the first sign.

Blackleg

Darkening and thickening of the base of the stem is a sign of black leg disease. Most often, asta seedlings suffer from this disease, which is why it is recommended to sow asters before winter. In greenhouse conditions, asters most often get sick. This usually happens when there is a violation of agricultural cultivation. For prevention, treat plantings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, ash and loosen the soil in a timely manner. You can also use drugs such as "Fundazol" and "Tsineb".

How long can cut asters be kept in a vase?

Add to water - one teaspoon of sugar per vase of water (two liters). Cut off the lower leaves. Cut off faded flower stalks. published

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Flower beds are painted with bright shades at the end of summer. It blooms unpretentious, but amazing asters. They will enliven the garden at a time when most flowers have already ceased to please the eye.

Astra: basic information

Gardeners appreciate and love a noble, beautiful flower. From large and fluffy heads of asters on a long stem, original bouquets are obtained. These are common annual asters (callistefuses).

Already in late autumn, perennial plants adorn the flower beds for a long time. These are asters up to 160 cm high and with a flower diameter up to 6 cm with pink, blue, red, lilac flowers. The plant is a strongly branching bush with small leaves, which is crowned with simple or double heads.

Aster Features:

She is not afraid of the cold. Some varieties bloom even at -70C.
despite adverse weather conditions.
A plant can be propagated in several ways.
Growing seedlings is relatively easy. If desired, seeds can be sown directly into open ground.
The bush is able to regenerate the damaged rhizome: it will transfer the transplant even during the flowering period.

There are a lot of varieties that differ in shape, height and shades. There is an opportunity to show imagination and create not just a flower bed, but a masterpiece.

Popular perennial varieties that gardeners use: alpine aster, undersized, spherical. The first species is propagated by dividing a bush or planting seeds in a flower bed in late autumn or spring. The second aster is an unpretentious flower that needs sun and alkaline soil to grow. The third grade is a neat, spherical, highly branched plant. Blooms until snow.

Astra is an undemanding and hardy flower that adorns flower beds throughout the fall.

How are flowers grown?

Regardless of the method of planting, soil preparation must be done in advance. Even in the fall, digging up a flower bed, they bring in humus.

annual aster

For planting this type of plant, seeds, seedling or seedless methods are used. Sowing material can be prepared independently at the end of summer or purchased at a store.

Seedling propagation:

At the end of March, the material is sown in boxes or in a greenhouse. To do this, grooves are prepared, the seeds are pre-treated with a fungicide.
Carefully sifted humus is sprinkled on top. Little fertilizer is needed, it is enough to get a thin layer.
Weak pour on the ground.
The grooves are hidden under paper or polyethylene. Until the first shoots appear, the temperature is maintained at + 180C.
After 5 days, remove the film and take out the boxes in the sun. Until the seedlings sprout, it is not necessary to water the ground.
The appearance of the first full-fledged leaves is a signal that it is time to dive seedlings.
Complex mineral fertilizers are used once a week. Start fertilizing 7 days after thinning the plants.
Asters are planted in open ground in the first decade of May.

With the seedless method, the seed is placed in the heated soil of flower beds. Seeds are sprinkled a little with earth, hidden under a film until the first sprouts. When shoots appear, the polyethylene is removed. Plants cover when there are frosts.

Dive is optional. It is necessary to sow with an interval of 1-2 cm. Later, the asters are thinned out to a distance of 12 cm between flowers. And you can not pull out the plants at all. Asters planted in this way will quickly bloom.

perennial aster

The best time for reproduction and transplantation is spring. At this time, new shoots are formed on the stem, which are used for green cuttings. They root easily and grow quickly.

Also use the division of the rhizome. In March, several parts containing a growth bud are obtained from it. When propagating asters, you need to choose one or another method, given the plant variety.

How to properly care for asters?

Flower care includes:

Good flowerbed location
Watering
top dressing
weeding
loosening
pasynkovanie

Astram is good in partial shade. They love the sun, but in extreme heat and drought, their appearance suffers. Flowers will grow in a draft-proof and not damp flower bed. Excess moisture bushes do not like. They are classified as drought-resistant plants. Despite this, in hot weather, abundant watering is required. If there is not enough water during the formation of buds, then there will never be lush heads.

Growing in, watered and fed plants will bloom until frost. The first mineral fertilizers are applied 14 days after planting seedlings in a flower bed. When buds are formed and flowering, nitrogen is not used as a top dressing. If the root is in constant dampness, then it feels a lack of air. Photosynthesis and growth slow down. Moisture is the cause of many diseases.

Spider mites, moths, aphids are pests that infect a flower. They are destroyed by Aktofit or Aktellikt. These insecticides do not poison beneficial insects, so they can be used at any time.

Pasynkovanie - regulation of the growth of lateral shoots. If the shoots (stepchildren) are not removed, then large inflorescences will not work. Lush asters are plants with one stem, from which side shoots are cut. For undersized, bouquet and columnar varieties, this procedure is not done.

Only an attentive and caring attitude to asters guarantees a colorful look. Even a novice gardener will be able to plant and care for asters. The most important thing is the desire to arrange a beautiful flower garden and diligence.

See how to prevent aster diseases in the video:

Pinching plants - removing the top of a young shoot. It is also called tweezing, the word comes from German, translated as "remove the end." The procedure is used to develop lateral shoots when vertical growth stops, increase productivity, and decorative effect.

Fruit trees are pinched to form a crown and facilitate winter pruning. Tweezing stops the progressive growth of green shoots, promotes rapid lignification, and the development of lateral buds. Such buds more easily tolerate winter colds and unstable spring weather, give good fruits in the next season.

Remove competitive strong vertical shoots that thicken the crown and change the lighting and shape of the tree. They pinch new side shoots, force the branches to develop horizontally, and increase fruiting.

The tweezing of vegetable plants is aimed at improving the quality, full formation and maturation of the crop from existing ovaries. Removing the tops of the shoots prevents the appearance of new flowers, the dispersion of the forces of the plant for the formation and development of ovaries that do not have time to become fruits.

For indoor crops, pinching gives abundant branching and flowering of young shoots. By tweezing, the tops are shaped into a bole, and the crown is splendid and neat. The shoots are shortened if, during transplantation, part of the root system was removed and the top of the plant no longer matches the size of the bottom.

General rules

Pinching is carried out only when the tissues of the shoots are soft, green, and not hardened. This means pinching garden plants at the beginning of the summer season, in June.

In indoor crops, the formation of a bush requires the removal of the tops of the shoots throughout the year, but during the period of active growth, the process occurs most intensively. Do this with two fingers - forefinger and thumb, or with scissors, a knife.

fruit

The process requires skill, practical experience. Choose shoots green, young, 10-15 cm long, growing on skeletal branches vertically upwards. In the future, they will become competitors to the main trunk, they will take away the juices, growing, and block the sun with excessive foliage.

Infertile fatty "tops" are removed completely. Shoots that have directed growth downward or horizontally are not touched. Having pinched the growth point on the vertical green shoots of the side branches, 3-5 buds are left, which become fruitful from growth buds when the plastic substances are redistributed. During the growing season, spend up to 3 times.

Vegetable

By tweezing, the tops of the shoots are removed, always above the first leaf, which has grown after the formation of the last ovary, which has time to form the fruit. Pinch at the beginning of mass flowering, no later than three weeks before the last harvest.

Indoor

Plants are pinched when they form a stem of a young or newly transplanted flower. Pinch the top of the trunk at the desired height (30-100 cm), wait for the development of 5-6 lateral shoots, their tops are removed above the first pair of leaves, leaving 10-12 cm. To maintain a beautiful shape, rejuvenation, flowering, shoots growing inside the crown are periodically pinched .

What plants are shown

Stone fruit crops are pinched in the first half of June. These are apricot, peach, cherry. Quince, apple, and occasionally pear are tweezed from pome fruits. From exotic crops, persimmon, olives, lemon, and tangerine need to be removed from green shoots.

Vegetables are pinched after the formation of 2-3 brushes with flowers. Peppers, zucchini, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants are pinched for good yields. Tops of shoots of watermelons, pumpkins, melons are removed from gourds. The tops of the lateral processes and the main stem are removed from cucumbers, provoking self-pollination and improving the quality of the fruit.

From domestic plants, pinching is required for abundant flowering: indoor maple abutilon, rhododendron, alamanda, bougainvillea, jasmine, fuchsia, hoya, chrysanthemum. Remove green shoots, forming a beautiful crown: ardisia, accube, euonymus, heather, gardenia, cypress, klerodendrum, coleus, money tree, lantana, oleander, roses, ficus.

Houseplants

Tweezing will make the flower compact, make it bloom more abundantly, and strengthen the axillary buds. Pinching is carried out during the growth period, allowing the flower to gain strength and get the necessary development.

Transfer

When transplanting plants lose part of the root system. To replenish the volume, to allow the flower to develop and grow roots, pinch new shoots so that strength is not wasted for vertical growth.

Formation

In ornamental gardening, the ability to pinch a shoot so that it grows in the right direction is appreciated. Such experience and practice is especially relevant when creating sculptural compositions and growing bonsai.

Not stiffened green shoots are not only pinched, but also forced to change shape, fixing them with wire. Pinch the top of the plant stem to avoid stretching the flower, the formation of a tall, but weak, frail stem. Forming a crown, they provide access to light and air to the flower.

Rejuvenation

After pruning for renewal, fuchsia, perlargonium, and other acanthus are pinched, achieving maximum branching, abundant foliage and flowering. Used for homemade lemons, tangerines.

Flower delay

To get a bush with large, lush flowers that bloomed at the same time, young shoots with early buds are removed. This improves the quality and abundance of flowering at the right time.

garden crops

Many modern varieties of vegetables do not require additional care - pinching, pinching. If weather conditions are unfavorable for fruit ripening, pinching will provoke a high-quality, timely harvest.

Potato

Remove the tops of the bushes before they form flower buds. They cut off the very tip of the stem, 2-3 cm. The tubers will grow large, give a bountiful harvest for the next season.

Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant

Strongly elongated plants are pinched 40 days before the expected collection of fruits. Two leaves are left above the formed ovaries, the stem above is removed, preventing new flowers from appearing.

Zucchini

Self-pollinated varieties do not need pinching; to prevent rot, several leaves are removed from the bush, thickening it. The rest pinch the tops, leaving 4-5 sheets. In climbing crops, the crown of the stem is removed after 1 meter in length, 3 lateral processes are left with one full-fledged ovary on each.

Watermelon

Pinching the processes of the main stem of the berry is done when 2-3 fruits have already reached a diameter of up to 7 cm.

Pumpkin

Pinch the side shoots and the central stem if the number of formed pumpkins reaches 2-3. When the fruits begin to pour, pinch the tops, cover the internodes with humus, provoke an early, high-quality and long-term harvest.

cucumber, melon

The main stem is pinched so that female flowers appear on the developed lateral processes. This provokes pollination of male flowers on the main stem, increases the number of ovaries. The top of the head is cut off above 6 sheets, weak processes are removed. Hybrids leave 3 lateral shoots.

Pinching plants is a component of the necessary care, which is aimed at the formation of a full-fledged crop, good flowering and a decorative appearance of garden and horticultural crops.

Letniki are definitely the brightest and, perhaps, the most unpretentious inhabitants of our gardens. But they also need care. Weeding, top dressing and, of course, the correct and timely formation of each bush. For careful care, the plants will thank you with lush and especially long flowering. So, let's start in order!

Formation of annual vines

Annual creepers are fast growing plants. With their help, you can decorate an unsightly wall of an outbuilding, decorate a fence or an arbor, create a flower arch or a flower-emerald curtain. Simply put, with their help, you can turn the ordinary and dullness into something completely fantastic and charming. In order for the liana bushes to conquer the eye with their power and splendor in the future, they need to be pinched at the seedling stage. Pinching - removing the top of the shoot above the 3-4 leaf, stimulates the formation of side shoots. This procedure is necessary for tall and medium-sized varieties of peas, fiery red beans, moonflower, dolichos, azarina, tunbergia and others.

Formation of heat-loving perennials

Heat-loving perennials, which are cultivated as, also need timely pinching. Removing the tip above the 4-6 leaf has a beneficial effect on the development of hybrid fuchsia, Peruvian heliotope, hybrid browallia and coleus. Zonal pelargonium, fiery red kufeya, New Guinea balsam and Waller's balsam also need pinching. As a result - branched, compact and abundantly flowering bushes.

But do not get carried away, because each pinch pushes back the beginning of flowering. 1-2 procedures are enough. Too zealous flower growers in the northern regions, due to repeated pinching, may not wait for flowering until the onset of cold weather.

Formation of ampelous plants

The queens of hanging flowerpots and balcony boxes: petunia, surfinia, fuchsia, ivy-leaved pelargonium, calibrachoa, ferulo-leaved sequence, large-flowered anagallis, sutera and others need to be shaped. Repeated pinching, carried out as it grows, contributes to the branching of the bushes. As a result, shoots and flowers form an incredibly lush and colorful cascade.

Some ornamental ampelous plants also need pinching and pruning of shoots. Flower growers do not need to be careful when shortening the shoots of ivy-leaved, greenfinch or, for example, ivy. After all, even frequent pruning will not harm these plants.

Forced pinching

Flower growers, lobularia, petunia, zinnia, hybrid verbena and other flowering annuals often face the same problem. And it's entirely their own fault.

Attention!

Incorrectly calculated dates for sowing seeds, lack of light during the growth period, untimely planting of seedlings of letniki into the ground - all this leads to stretching of the stems of young plants. To correct the situation, in this case, the removal of most of the stem will help.

From the axillary buds remaining on the shoot, new branches will soon grow. And after a short time, the plants will look, as expected - healthy and strong.

Ageratum mexican

Pinching after landing in the ground

Carnation or, for example, tall varieties of helichrysum bracts begin to grow only after landing in a permanent place. For this reason, pinching of shoots is also carried out after planting seedlings in the phase of 3-4 pairs of leaves. The central shoot is cut at the level of 2-3 nodes, which further contributes to better tillering and abundant flowering of plants.

Helichrysum bractalis

Pinching prolonging flowering

Every summer gives gardeners surprises. Now it shines with a rainbow, then it cries with rain, then it smiles with a ruddy sun. But sometimes the “gift” of summer is the merciless heat that turns the flower garden into a desert. In such unfavorable conditions, plants are in a hurry to leave behind offspring. You can often see how, after a short flowering, Chinese carnation, umbrella iberis, Drummond's phlox, lobularia and hybrid gazania, seed boxes are already swaying on their branches ...

To enjoy bright colors for as long as possible, flowering can be extended. To do this, at a height of 5-8 cm from the ground, the shoots must be cut. After, feed and water the bush. After one to two weeks, flowers will appear on the newly formed shoots.

Ageratum, calendula, salvia, verbena, snapdragon, petunia, pelargonium, large-flowered godetia, marigolds, and others are plants whose flowering can be extended by plucking out wilted inflorescences. Of course, on very large areas it is difficult to do this alone. But in small garden plots it is quite possible to carry out the plan, even for a beginner. Moreover, the reward for work is the opportunity to admire the overflow of colors until late autumn.

Space for creativity

A little imagination, skills in working with scissors and the hands of a grower can work wonders. But this is provided that there is a santolina, coleus, railing or, for example, a ragwort on the site. These plants with variegated or curly leaves lend themselves easily to pinching and shaping. So it will not be difficult to create a small hedge or a colorful border with their help.

But, not a single plant can be compared with. It will provide an opportunity to feel like a real sculptor. By cutting branch by branch, a lush bush can be turned into a pyramid, cube or ball. And the way the sculpture is simple and unpretentious, but it is made by hand. And what can be the best decoration of a flower garden, if not a creation dear to the heart?

Cochia broom

If quality is more important than quantity...

Asters, gillyflowers, zinnias and chrysanthemums are beautiful not only in a flower bed, but also in a bouquet. To grow as large flowers as possible, side shoots must be removed during the budding period. In dahlias grown for cutting, side shoots need to be pinched, and from the three buds formed on each peduncle, two should be left, breaking the middle one.

Thus, knowing these simple rules for the formation of annuals and putting them into practice, you will be convinced that flowers are the most grateful creatures!

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