Garden delphinium - growing from seedlings for beginners. Delphinium annual growing from seeds

Delphinium is one of the most beloved and desired garden plants. Slender, with bright emerald leaves, impressive flowering columns and pleasing to the eye. Differs in height, harmony and magnificence. Known to people since ancient times.

According to one of the legends, the gods turned a gifted young sculptor into a dolphin just because he revived the sculpture of a deceased girl with whom he was in love. Every evening the dolphin swam to the shore with a bouquet in his mouth, and in memory of his love he threw this flower at the girl's feet.

The second myth tells about the battle under the walls of Troy. An arrow that hit Achilles' heel wounded him. Fallen drops of blood gave life to these magnificent flowers. According to Russian belief, they have medicinal properties and help the rapid fusion of bones in fractures, injuries. Most peoples called the delphinium a spur because the upper petal of its bud looks like a spur.

And now, many admire the bewitching spectacle of blooming delphiniums, from a distance resembling multi-colored steles, soaring up. The genus delphinium, spur, or Larkspur combines about 400 species of herbaceous annuals and perennials, forming massive terminal cluster or paniculate inflorescences, which are valued for their long flowering.

Description of the delphinium

Wild delphinium lives in all corners of the world, belongs to the buttercup family. Elegant, branched, hollow inside the stems reach a height of 2 m. The leaves are rounded, hand-finger-dissected. The color of the buds is ultramarine, blue, purple, pink, lilac, white. simple flowers consist of five petals, and in terry - their number is increased due to modified stamens. An unopened delphinium bud looks like the head or body of a dolphin - hence its name.

Dissolves in June and again, with proper care, in August. All delphinium varieties and hybrids are used as a high-quality cut crop - they stand in a vase for a long time. This luxurious flower will decorate any flower garden.

Growing delphinium in open ground

Delphinium prefers open areas, but the petals can fade in bright sun. A light midday shadow is only good for him. The location near the walls of buildings and fences will protect it from lodging from the wind, cover it from scorching rays.

These plants require fertilized, rich in organic matter, permeable soil, painstaking care. In damp places, expanded clay drainage is arranged or grooves are made to drain excess moisture. Prefers loamy, loose soils with a neutral reaction. It has been grown in one place for several years.

put on sunny area or light shade. When preparing the soil for planting, organic and mineral fertilizers(phosphorus-potassium). During the entire period, water abundantly, periodically feed. The soil is constantly loosened and mulched with peat or compost, which helps to retain moisture and serves as additional nutrition.

In the spring, the weakest shoots are cut off, which are used for grafting. They stimulate the formation of new flowers by regularly removing fading inflorescences. Tall plants require reliable support, because the stems break easily even with a slight wind. In autumn, perennial species are cut at the root, spud so that water does not get inside the hollow stems, since this can lead to the death of the plant. If pruning is done in the spring, then simply break the stems to close the cavity inside.

Reproduction of the delphinium by dividing the bush

The most reliable and productive way is. This is done during a planned transplant in the spring before the start of the growing season. The dug out root is cut into parts, each of which has a growth point and a root. The slices are dried, sprinkled with ash. They are placed at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other in pre-prepared holes.

It is possible to divide the plant without digging after sprouts appear or after flowering. To do this, the shovel is thrust into the place of the desired incision until it stops. The part that they want to plant is dug around the circumference, carefully pulled out and transferred to the desired area. In the vacant place they pour fresh nutrient soil. All carefully watered, shaded until they take root.

Growing delphinium from seeds for seedlings and sowing in the ground

Annuals and biennials are propagated by sowing seeds in autumn and spring. Seeds quickly lose their germination capacity - when buying, you should pay attention to the timing - the closer to the last date, the less likely you are to get seedlings. To stimulate germination, you can treat the seeds with a solution of hydrogen peroxide (1 teaspoon per 100 ml of water) for 30 minutes.

Sowing for seedlings

When to sow the delphinium? In late March - early April, seedling boxes, containers or individual cups are prepared. The seeds are large enough to plant one at a time without any problems.

• Prepare a nutritious loose soil, perfect soil mixture for flowering.
• Containers or cups must have drainage holes.
• Seeding depth 0.5-1 cm.
• The distance between seeds is at least 2-3 cm when sowing in a common container.
• Moisturize moderately, you can use a spray bottle so that there is no excess moisture.
• Cover with a film and ventilate daily, removing condensate.
• When shoots appear, it is better to remove the film.
• When 2-3 true leaves appear, plants dive in separate cups.
• Seedlings need to be hardened a couple of weeks before planting in the ground. Take it out into the fresh air, let it get used to the sun and wind. When she can spend the night, the plants are ready for planting.

It is necessary to transplant to a flower bed already at a steady positive temperature in November, in order to avoid freezing by night frosts. The distance between the bushes is left 30-40 cm, so that the plants develop well.

Sowing in the ground

They are sown in late March - early April in a greenhouse to obtain flowering specimens already in the year of sowing or in May in open ground. You can sow them before winter or in winter in boxes that are buried under the snow to get friendly shoots in the spring. Seedlings dive in the phase of 2-4 leaves, regularly watered and fed.

Plants of most varieties (if they are hybrids) grown from seeds may not convey the decorative qualities of the parent individuals, so the seed method is rarely used. But with this method, you can get several colors of different qualities at once. Most of the hybrids are propagated by cuttings taken from the lower part of the flowering stem in early spring.

Propagation of the delphinium by cuttings

Young shoots about 10 cm long. The lower sections are treated with a root formation stimulator. For this purpose, you can use the usual agave. The bottom sheet is torn off from an adult plant and placed in the refrigerator for 5 days. After that, a few drops of juice are squeezed out of it and the lower parts of the cuttings are moistened with it, which are then placed in containers with well-moistened sand or vermiculite. Rootin and similar preparations can be used.

The containers are covered with transparent lids or placed in a plastic bag to maintain sufficient humidity. The appearance of young leaves indicates successful rooting. The grown seedlings are transferred to a permanent place at the end of summer to give them the opportunity to finally take root before the onset of cold weather. Usually delphiniums tolerate winters well. middle lane, only young seedlings require shelter from dry peat, moss or sawdust.

Pests and diseases of the delphinium

Delphinium is a rather delicate plant subject to attack by leaf-eating insects. Some diseases cause yellowing, deformation of the leaves. Among the diseases are dangerous powdery mildew and some rot, to limit the spread of diseases, they resort to disinfecting the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Fusarium infection and bacterial diseases, causing cancer and rot, leads to wilting of plants. When they appear, treat the plants with special fungicides. Aphids sucking plant sap contribute to the spread of viral diseases. Thrips provoke the formation of silver spots on leaves and flowers.

Damage is also caused by Coleoptera scoops, which are disposed of with the help of special insecticides. As a preventive measure against insects and diseases, ammonia is used (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or tar water (1 tablespoon of pharmacy birch tar is mixed in 5 liters of water, a little laundry soap is added to this mixture), with solutions of which the plants themselves are watered and the ground around.

These products repel many insects, and ammonia is also an excellent additional foliar top dressing. Due to its toxicity, the delphinium was almost never used as a medicine in ancient times, only in the Middle Ages, doctors used its tincture to heal wounds. In magic, it was used to protect against a love spell or as a talisman.

Dried blue flower the delphinium was worn in a small bag or amulet around the neck, protecting it from prying eyes. It was believed that such a charm served as protection against nightmares and insomnia. All varieties of delphinium are ideal for cutting. This is a very showy plant used for planting in groups, in flowerbeds, borders, mixborders and in single plantings against a lawn or buildings. And as a solitary plant, it is excellent.

Types of delphinium with photos and descriptions

Numerous hybrids are divided into three large groups ‘Belladonna’, ‘Pacific’, ‘Upright’. The latter includes most perennials bred in our gardens. They have delightful compact inflorescences of single, semi-double or double flowers.

Delphinium belladonna Delphinium belladonna

Delphinium belladonna reaches a height of 0.9-1.2 m. An upright perennial has beautiful spike-shaped flowers. It has loose, branching inflorescences, grows quickly and blooms for a long time.

Delphinium high Delphinium elatum

Perennial resistant specimen 70 cm high, with deeply dissected leaves, azure buds.

Delphinium field Delphinium consolida

An annual plant up to 2 m high.

Delphinium grandiflora Delphinium grandiflorum

Herbaceous plant with a shortened rhizome up to 100 cm tall.

Delphinium hybrid Delphinium hybrids

Giant Delphinium Pacific Giants Delphinium Pacific Giants photo of flowers in the garden

The hybrids of the ‘Pacific’ (Pacific) group include numerous annuals and biennials. As flower culture the most common delphinium hybrid, obtained by crossing various kinds between themselves. Modern varieties differ in shape, size of leaves and flowers, as well as the height of the bushes. Pacific hybrids are less adapted to cold winters and require more careful care. Even in much warmer Europe, they are grown as biennials.

New Zealand hybrids are characterized by excellent frost resistance, unpretentious care and long flowering - this is an excellent option for decorating a suburban area.

Marfin hybrids are very popular with flower growers, because they are perfectly adapted to the realities of our weather. In terms of quality, decorative indicators, they are not inferior to foreign varieties. They form neat bushes that produce large panicles of columnar inflorescences with semi-double flowers of various colors, attract attention from afar with their magnificence.

Delphinium - poisonous plant

All parts of the plant, because they contain an alkaloid widely used in medicine. If ingested, they can cause serious gastrointestinal upset. And contact with the leaves, especially in individuals with particularly sensitive skin, causes skin irritation and allergic dermatitis. Therefore, when working with a delphinium, it is necessary to protect hands and bare parts of the body from getting juice.

Delphinium (lat. Delphinium)- a genus of herbaceous plants of the Buttercup family. Other names are larkspur, spur. There are about 450 species of annual and perennial plants. Annual delphiniums, which include about 40 species, are sometimes isolated into an adjacent genus and are called sokirks (Consolida). Delphiniums grow in China (about 150 species) and throughout Southeast Asia, in the mountains of tropical Africa, in the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. Many believe that the unopened delphinium is a flower that looks like a dolphin's head, hence the name, but it is believed that the delphinium flowers got their name in honor of the Greek city of Delphi, in which, they say, a great many grew. Be that as it may, a rare florist will not agree that this luxurious flower will decorate any flower garden.

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Planting and caring for a delphinium (in brief)

• Landing: perennial: sowing seedlings in March, planting seedlings in the ground - in June, sowing seeds directly into the ground - in April-May. Annuals: sowing seeds in spring or before winter.
• Bloom: summer.
• Lighting: bright sun with shading in the afternoon hours.
• The soil: sandy or loamy, moderately moist, rich in humus, neutral or slightly acidic.
• Watering: in the dry season every week at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per plant. After watering or rain - obligatory loosening of the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm.
• Top dressing: mineral and organic fertilizers: 1st - when the shoots reach a height of 10-15 cm, 2nd - at the very beginning of flowering, 3rd - at the end of flowering. After each top dressing, abundant watering is necessary.
• Thinning and garter bushes: mandatory.
• Reproduction: annuals - by seeds, perennials - by seeds and vegetatively (rhizome division, cuttings).
• Diseases: powdery mildew, root rot, peronosporosis, fusarium, rust, viral infections - spots and mosaics.
• Pests: mites, orbies, meadow nematodes, aphids and slugs.

Read more about growing a delphinium below.

Delphinium flower - features

Growing a delphinium is not an easy task., it requires knowledge and work. Firstly, the landing site must be sunny in the morning and closed from strong wind, as well as located in an area where water does not stagnate, otherwise the delphinium will simply rot. After planting, mulching with peat or humus is mandatory. In one place, delphiniums grow no more than 5-6 years, and Pacific species, less durable, no more than 3-4, then the bushes need to be divided and seated.

Delphiniums require repeated garters so that their hollow stems do not break in the wind. In addition, the delphinium is sometimes affected by powdery mildew and some types of pests. But if you are ready to fulfill all the whims of the delphinium, it will reward you with a lush long flowering in June and another, shorter, but no less beautiful, in August or September.

Growing delphinium from seeds

Sowing delphinium

Growing a perennial delphinium from seeds is not only profitable compared to buying planting material, but also exciting. Delphinium reproduces not only by seeds, but also by dividing the rhizome, buds and cuttings, but in this section we will tell you how to grow a delphinium from seeds. Delphinium sowing is carried out at the end of February.

Remember: when storing seeds in a dry, warm place, germination is lost. Fresh seeds should be sown immediately or kept in the refrigerator until the right time.

Before sowing, it is necessary to disinfect the seeds: placing them in a gauze bag, lower for twenty minutes in a solution of thick pink potassium permanganate. Instead of potassium permanganate, you can use a fungicide by preparing the solution according to the instructions. Then, without removing the seeds from the bag, thoroughly rinse the seeds with cold water and soak for a day in Epin's solution (a couple of drops per 100 ml of water). After that, dry the seeds so that they do not stick together.

Prepare the soil for seeds: take equal parts of peat, garden soil and humus (compost), add half of the washed sand, sift. To increase the moisture capacity and friability of the soil, add perlite to it at the rate of half a cup per 5 liters of soil mixture. Now heat the mixture for an hour in a water bath to destroy weed seeds and fungal spores. Fill the seed planting containers with the mixture and compact it lightly.

In the photo: How to sow delphinium seeds for seedlings

Landing delphinium: spread the seeds over the surface of the soil, immediately fixing the labels with the name of the variety and the date of sowing. Sprinkle seeds on top soil mixture a layer of 3 mm so that the seeds do not float up at the first watering, and lightly compact upper layer. Gently pour or spray the surface with cold boiled water. Cover the container with a transparent lid and then with a black film or covering material, as delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark, and place the container on a windowsill closer to the glass.

The optimum temperature for seed germination is + 10-15 ºC.

To increase germination, after 3-4 days, place the container in a refrigerator or on a glazed balcony and do not be afraid if the night temperature there drops to -5 ºC. After two weeks, place the seed container on the windowsill again. After this procedure (stratification), seedlings should appear in a week or two, and try not to miss this moment in order to immediately remove the film. Remember to keep the soil dry, spray it from time to time and ventilate the container to get rid of condensation.

In the photo: Sprouting delphinium seeds in a container

Healthy sprouts are dark green, strong, their cotyledons are characteristically pointed. When the plants have 2-3 leaves, you can dive the plants into pots with a volume of 200-300 ml, followed by growing them at a temperature not higher than 20 ºC. The soil should be loose, breathable, watering should be very moderate so that a "black leg" does not appear, which will lead to the death of seedlings. From the beginning of May, gradually accustom the seedlings to fresh air, without removing them from the windowsill during airing. Let her stay in the bright sun for a while.

Feeding delphinium seedlings before planting in open ground 1-2 times with a break of 2 weeks with Agricola or Mortar so that the solution does not fall on the leaves. The grown seedlings can be planted in open ground, when the clod of earth in the pot is already covered with roots - the seedlings are easily removed along with the clod without damaging the root system.

In the photo: Sprouted delphinium seedlings

Planting a delphinium

Delphinium seedlings are planted in open ground when the threat of frost has passed. The place, as already mentioned, should be sunny before lunch and without stagnant moisture. How to plant a delphinium? For planting, you need to dig holes 40 cm in diameter and 50 cm deep at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, pour half a bucket of humus (compost) into each of them, two tablespoons complex fertilizer and a glass of ash, mix with the ground so that fertilizers do not fall on the root of the plant, then make a depression, place a seedling in it, compact the ground around it and water the bed. At first, it is better to cover each seedling plastic bottle or glass jar until the plants are well established, but as soon as the delphiniums begin to grow, the shelter must be removed.

Delphinium Care

When the shoots grow to 10-15 cm, they feed a solution of cow manure in the proportion of 1 bucket of manure per 10 buckets of water - for 5 large bushes. After removing weeds and loosening the soil, the bed should be mulched with a three-centimeter layer of humus or peat. TO thinning bushes they start when the stems become 20-30 cm tall: you need to leave 3-5 stems in the bush, which will allow you to get larger and more beautiful inflorescences. Remove weaker shoots from the inside of the bush, breaking off or cutting them off near the ground. This will protect the plant from disease and allow air to circulate.

Cut cuttings, if they are not yet hollow and cut with a heel (part of the rhizome), can be rooted.

The cut is treated with a mixture of charcoal and a crushed tablet of heteroauxin, added dropwise in a mixture of sand and peat and placed under a film. After 3-6 weeks, the cutting takes root, and after another two weeks it is planted in open ground - this is the answer to the question of how to grow a delphinium vegetatively, in this case, by cuttings.

When the plants reach 40-50 cm in height, near each bush, trying not to damage the roots, they dig in three supporting rods (slats) up to 180 cm high, to which tie up the stems of the delphinium ribbons or strips of fabric so that in strong winds they do not cut into the stems and do not injure them. The next tying is done at a height of 100-120 cm.

During growing season each delphinium "drinks" up to 60 liters of water. How to grow a delphinium in a dry summer? It is necessary to pour 2-3 buckets of water under each bush every week. When after glaze the earth dries up, you need to loosen it to a depth of 3-5 cm. Delphiniums especially need watering during the formation of inflorescences, and if heat sets in at this time, “brush gaps” will appear in the inflorescence, that is, areas without flowers. To avoid this, you need abundant watering and top dressing potassium-phosphorus fertilizers at the rate of 20 g of fertilizers per bucket of water - one liter of solution for each bush.

In the second half of summer, powdery mildew may appear on plants - fungal disease covering the leaves with a white coating, which then becomes brown. If measures are not taken in time, the entire aerial part of the plant will die. At the first sign, you need to spray the delphiniums twice with a solution of Topaz or Fundazol. Sometimes black spots appear on the leaves of the delphinium, spreading from the bottom of the plant to the top. This black spot, which can be fought only at an early stage by spraying the leaves twice with a solution of tetracycline in the proportion of 1 tablet per 1 liter of water.

Infects delphiniums and ring spot, staining the leaves with yellow spots. This is a viral disease, it cannot be cured, and the affected plants will have to be removed. But with the carrier of the virus, aphids, you need to fight: spray the plants with Karbofos or Aktellik for prevention. Of the pests, the plant is afraid of the delphinium fly, which lays eggs in buds, and slugs. They fight the fly with insecticides, and the slugs are repelled by the smell of bleach, which can be placed in jars between the delphinium bushes.

After flowering, the inflorescences are cut, collect seeds, but new shoots appear, and in the fall the delphiniums bloom again. At the end of summer or the beginning of autumn, between the first and second flowering, it is possible to divide three-four-year-old delphinium bushes. The bush must be dug up, carefully divided or cut with a knife so as not to damage the renewal buds, sprinkle the cuts wood ash and seat the divided parts. It's another way vegetative propagation delphinium.

Delphinium after flowering

When the leaves dry up after flowering, the stems of the delphinium are cut off at a height of 30-40 cm from the ground and, for reliability, the top of the tube (hollow stem) is covered with clay. They do this so that autumn rains and melt water do not get through the cavity to the root neck and do not contribute to the death of the plant from rotting of the rhizome. Almost all delphiniums are hardy both mature plants and seedlings. If the winter is cold and snowless, the beds with delphiniums should be covered with spruce branches or straw. Plants can only be destroyed by frequent and sudden changes in temperature, as they lead to an excess of moisture, from which rhizomes can rot. The best way to avoid this is to fall asleep when landing at the bottom of the pit with half a bucket of sand, so that excess moisture could go deep through it.

It may immediately seem to you that dealing with this plant, especially growing a delphinium from seeds, is too troublesome, but if you are not afraid of the hassle and spend a little time and effort, the results will exceed all your expectations.

Types of delphinium

Delphiniums are annual and perennial. From annual delphiniums the most famous are the varieties of field delphinium and Ajax delphinium.

This is a tall plant, almost two meters high. The flowers in inflorescences are simple or double, pink, white, lilac or blue flowers. In culture since 1572. Frosted Sky varieties (blue flowers with a white center), pale pink Qis Rose and dark blue Qis Dark Blue look very impressive. Delphinium field blooms in early summer and blooms until autumn.

In the photo: What do the leaves of a decorative delphinium look like?

Delphinium Ajax

A hybrid of Doubtful delphinium and Eastern delphinium, which received their best qualities as a result of selection. The stem of this species is from 40 cm to 1 m high, almost sessile leaves are strongly dissected, spike-shaped inflorescences, reaching 30 cm in length, come in a variety of colors: purple, red, blue, pink, blue and white. Some varieties have dense flowers. There is dwarf varieties, such as Dwarf Hyacinth-flowered, up to 30 cm high with double flowers of purple, pink, crimson and white flowers. Ajax delphiniums bloom from June until frost.

Delphinium hybrid

Growing perennial delphinium in culture began in the 19th century: breeders based on the first perennials Delphinium Elatum (Delphinium high) And Delphinium grandiflora (Delphinium grandiflora) the first hybrids were obtained by crossing (Delphinium Barlowii - Delphinium Barlow, Delphinium Formosum - Delphinium beautiful and Delphinium belladonna - Delphinium Belladonna), and then the Frenchman Victor Lemoine brought out terry forms of perennials of purple, blue and lavender color, which were named Delphinium Ornatum (beautiful) or "hybrid" (Delphinium hybridum), and then renamed "cultivated" (Delphinium cultorum). Today, perennial delphiniums in their color palette have up to 800 shades! Among them there are tall, medium height and undersized varieties with simple, semi-double, double and super-double flowers ranging in size from 2 cm to 9 cm in diameter.

In the photo: Delphinium Field (Delphinium Consolida)

Hybrid perennials are divided into groups according to their place of origin. The most popular are Scottish (F1 hybrids), new zealand delphiniums(New Millennium Delphiniums, or New Zealand Hybrids) and marfin hybrids, named after the state farm Marfino. Each group has its own differences and advantages. Marfinsky, for example, have excellent frost resistance and high decorativeness, they have large semi-double flowers with bright contrasting eyes (Blue lace, Morpheus, Spring snow, Pink sunset). But it is problematic to grow a Marfin perennial delphinium from seeds, since the seeds do not retain varietal characteristics.

New Zealand group, created not so long ago, is different tall(up to 2.2 m), large semi-double or double flowers (7-9 cm in diameter), in some species the petals are corrugated. These hybrids are frost-resistant, disease-resistant, durable, excellent for cutting and that is why they are the most popular today. Growing New Zealand delphiniums is a rewarding and profitable activity if you make money by selling flowers. Popular varieties: Sunny Skies, Green Twist, Pagan Purples, Blue Lace, Sweethearts.

In the photo: New Zealand delphiniums (New Millennium Delphiniums)

Author Scottish hybrid perennial delphiniums is Tony Cockley. These hybrids are distinguished by very dense inflorescences of super-double and double flowers, sometimes numbering up to 58 petals. With a plant growth of 1.1-1.5 m, the inflorescence reaches 80 cm in length! "Scots" have a wide color palette, are unpretentious, durable and perfectly retain their varietal properties during seed propagation. Most famous varieties Morning Sunrise, Blueberry Pie, Moon Light, Sweet Sensation, Crystal Delight and Deepest Pink.

An attractive representative of the flora is so fond of gardeners that I want to find a place in the flower bed for each new variety. Unfortunately, grown seedlings are quite expensive, so summer residents prefer to grow garden flower seedling method. This is true for both annual and perennial representatives of the genus, because the former are subsequently reproduced by self-seeding, and the latter are easily propagated by division or cuttings. Delphinium from seeds, the cultivation of which is not a laborious process, but has features, will become the king of any flower garden.

Delphinium - species diversity

The species diversity of delphiniums is striking in its scope. The genus Delphinium includes over 450 species of herbaceous plants. It belongs to the buttercup family and has several synonymous names. Representatives of the genus are annuals and perennial rhizomatous individuals. The greatest species diversity is concentrated in Asia and China, but some representatives live in the mountainous regions of the tropical zone of Africa.

The genus has a number of interesting synonyms - larkspur, horned cornflower, spur, lark's foot. The plant has long been used by traditional healers as a wound healing agent. Fractures were treated with a decoction, hence the name larkspur. The rest of the names, one way or another, are associated with the structural features of the flower.

Know! Most annual representatives belong to the adjacent genus Sokirki (Consolida).

With all their external beauty, representatives of the genus Delphinium are poisonous. Fruits, nectar and rhizomes contain alkaloids that act like curare poison. Larkspur is detrimental to living organisms, several cases of death of livestock have been recorded. You should not lose vigilance when working with culture, and also get involved in self-medication using traditional medicine recipes.

Modest wild flowers are not inferior in beauty high decorative varieties modern selection. By height, the culture is divided into tall and short varieties. Tiny mountain inhabitants reach only 10-15 cm in height, their tall counterparts can grow up to three meters. But the main classification of larkspur includes perennial and annual plants. How they differ from each other, you will learn further.

Annual spur - popular varieties

Thanks to botanical expeditions, the world learned about delphiniums in the 17th century. Annual types of larkspur (oriental and dubious) formed the basis of modern hybrids with high decorative qualities. The result of the first breeding experiments was the Ajax delphinium.

Somewhat later, annuals were identified as a separate genus - Consolid or Sokirk. Their range covers most of the European territory, Asia, the Caucasus, the Mediterranean. Individual representatives are found even in Western Siberia, where they grow in fields and roadsides, leading a weedy lifestyle. The genus Consolid consists of 50 species, only two representatives are found in culture:

• field (sowing, royal) larkspur;
• consolidated garden (Ayaksova).

The field variety of spur grows in Siberia, Europe, and Asia Minor. The larkspur forms bushes 1.5-2 m high and up to 1 m in diameter. The deciduous mass is dissected into 2-3 linear lobes. On a loose inflorescence about 30 cm long, you can simultaneously see buds, flowers and leaflets, the decorative period lasts 30-45 days. Cultivars are widely used for cutting, keep fresh in bouquets up to 20 days.

On a note! Field consolida has long been used to make dry bouquets. Dried flowers do not fade even in direct sunlight, retaining a bright cornflower blue color.

Among the varieties, Blue Cloud, Frosed Sky, Quis Dark Blue are popular. Height 80-100 cm. The Qis series includes cultivars with dark blue, pink, lilac, raspberry, white, pale blue corollas. Cultivated commercially for cut flowers.

Delphinium Ajax (Consolida garden) is the result of hybridization of dubious and oriental varieties. The annual stem reaches a height of 100 cm, is distinguished by a small number of lateral shoots. Leaves sit on short petioles, consist of narrow thin lobes. The diameter of flowers with a long spur reaches 5 cm. There are simple and double corollas of various shades.

The culture retains its decorative effect from mid-summer to the onset of autumn. It differs from its field sister in pubescent leaflets. One of the most striking hybrid forms is hyacinth. We will consider its description and cultivation features separately.

Perennial spur - groups and popular varieties

Perennial varieties of larkspur are bred on the basis of botanical species tall, labial and large-flowered. The selection of this wonderful representative of the flora was carried out by professionals and amateurs, therefore it is customary to combine cultivars into separate groups related by a common origin:

• Marfinskaya;
• Elatum;
• Belladonna;
• New Zealand;
• Scottish;
• Pacific (Pacific).

The Marfina group was the result of the hard work of the Soviet breeder N.I. Malyutin. Bushes up to 2 m tall, have strong wind-resistant stems, endure frost. Pyramid-shaped inflorescences reach a meter in length, consist of many semi-double flowers with a diameter of 6-7 cm. The color range of the group is very wide, each corolla has an eye of a contrasting shade. Main varieties: Pink sunset, Morpheus, Lilac spiral, Blue lace, Lavender obelisk, Daughter of winter.

Attention! Marfin hybrids have a high percentage of parental transfer during seed reproduction.

Through the efforts of K. Foster, high hybrids of Elatum were bred with a height of over 2 m, having pyramidal inflorescences of 70-80 cm. Distinctive feature- corollas are only blue and light blue. Large flowers of a simple or semi-double shape have a middle of white, brown or black tones. Flowering time falls in June-July, the second wave of bright hats appears by the beginning of autumn. Popular among the varieties are: Abgesang, Malvina, Perlmutterbaum, Lady Belinda, Amethyst.

The Belladonna group includes cultivars from 80 cm to one and a half meters tall, having panicle inflorescences and strongly dissected leaf blades. The palette includes blue, purple and white tones with yellow, black and snow-white eyes. The most popular hybrids are Capri, Merheim, Piccolo, Casa Blanca Arnold Becklin, Lamartine.

The New Zealand group has gained world fame, including durable winter-hardy hybrids of the new generation. The originator is Terry Dowdeswell. Its plants have strong shortened (80-120 cm) stems with lush foliage. Dense inflorescences consist of very large double and densely double flowers of a wide range of colors. Flower growers preferred the following varieties: Black-eyed Angel, Sunny Skies, Green Twist, Blue Lace, Purple Passion.

Advice! New Zealand hybrids are ideal for cutting, delighting with a long decorative period throughout the summer.

Scottish super-double hybrids of Tony Cockley are found in any catalog of varieties. Each corolla of large flowers can contain up to 58 petals. Bushes 1.1-1.3 m high, inflorescences are powerful, dense, up to 80 cm long. Descendants completely retain the varietal characteristics of the parent pair. The color palette of the petals is varied. Popular cultivars are Depest Pink, Sweet Sensation, Moon Light, Blueberry Pie, Crystal Delight.

The Pacific group is designed by Frank Reyneld. Its hybrids are distinguished by their large growth, powerful stems and lush pyramids, composed of semi-double type buds. The palette includes pink, snow-white, blue, purple, blue, purple petals with a white or black center. In the conditions of the Russian climate, these magnificent giants did not take root, since they were bred specifically for climatic conditions USA. Even Europeans prefer growing in a two-year culture. The following varieties are popular: King Arthur, Genevieve, Galahad, Blue Jay, Summer Sky, Black Knight.

Along with the listed highly decorative hybrids, their ancestors are often found in gardens - high larkspur, labial, large-flowered. Depending on the growing conditions and the climate of the region, they have a different appearance. Although they are inferior in beauty to hybrids, they do not hold the charm of wild wildflowers.

On a note! The advantages of these varieties include unpretentiousness, durability and frost resistance.

Growing delphinium from seeds step by step

The technology for growing seedlings for annual and perennial varieties is the same, minor differences can be traced only in the timing of sowing and the intricacies of caring for the crop in the garden. Consider step by step the process of cultivating flower seedlings.

Preparing seeds for sowing

The seed method of breeding hybrids is considered reliable only by 80%. This is due to the complex mechanism of inheritance of varietal traits.

The first rule when choosing seed is to carefully study the information from the packaging. Special attention should be given to the date of collection, because manufacturers set a shelf life of 3 years, single seedlings will sprout from such seeds. Therefore, it is better to purchase seed in specialized outlets or directly from breeders.

Remember that the inscription "annual" does not mean at all that on next year again you have to buy seed. Nature took care of the eastern guest, endowing annual species with the ability to reproduce by self-sowing.

A gardener with twenty years of experience, Inna, advises beginners not to chase market novelties. They are unreasonably expensive. You should be especially careful if you are offered fantastic black hybrids, for now one can only dream of such varieties.

Larkspur seeds are equipped with a strong shell, the destruction of which the sprout will require a lot of strength. Therefore, landing is preceded by preparation, which includes two points - disinfection and stratification. To protect the seedlings from possible infection, the seed is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. The grains are soaked in a light pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes. After soaking, rinse several times in clean water.

Remember! Fitosporin or other fungicide for processing is diluted in accordance with the instructions.

Stratification helps to activate growth processes and destroy the seed coat faster. To do this, the gardener needs to bring the germination conditions closer to natural ones. The seed is wrapped in a damp cloth, turning it into a roll. Then, the cut is placed in a small container and sent for 2 weeks in a refrigerator or basement, where the temperature does not rise above 5⁰C. During this time, the shell will become softer, the beginnings of roots will appear. If it is necessary to delay the moment of planting, the temperature should be lowered.

Sowing dates

When growing seedlings of annuals and perennial species larkspurs are guided by the following rules for determining the timing of sowing:

1. The optimal sowing time is immediately after seed collection.
2. Podzimny sowing is relevant for the consolidum, because hybrids during prolonged freezing can lose their varietal qualities, change the shade of the petals.
3. If you bought annual seeds for the first time, they should be planted in March, more accurate information is indicated on the package.
4. Terry and densely doubled hybrids open corollas longer, so they need to be planted earlier - in February. It is important to provide the seedlings with the necessary level of daylight.

On a note! Under winter sowing allows you to get early flowering, spring seedlings will bloom closer to autumn.

Soil and container for growing spur seedlings

The main requirements for the soil are friability, nutritional value, lightness. The substrate medium should not be acidic. The optimal soil will be obtained by mixing equal proportions of peat or black soil with humus. A little sand and a handful of vermiculite are added to the finished soil mixture.

Most gardeners agree that peat tablets are not recommended for growing delphinium seedlings. The eastern guest is capricious about the level of humidity, and peat, with a lack of moisture, can damage the delicate root system. Peat is also considered an acidic substrate. Coconut tablets are suitable for spur. They are used in the same way as peat washers.

As a container for growing seedlings, a plastic box or special cassettes are suitable. The main thing is that their height is more than 10 cm. Otherwise, the seedlings grow frail.

Important! Make sure that the container is equipped with drainage holes to remove excess moisture.

Technology of sowing seeds for seedlings

Step-by-step instructions for sowing:

1. Fill the selected container with the prepared substrate, compact and moisten.
2. Spread the material evenly over the surface of the soil so that there are two seeds per square centimeter.
3. Using a sieve, sprinkle the crops with a layer of soil 2-3 mm, water a little.
4. Germination of seedlings occurs without access to light, so the container must be covered black film or a piece of burlap (fix the agrofibre on top).
5. Sprouts will appear in 2 weeks, the boxes are kept in a cool place at a temperature not exceeding 10⁰C. Check the humidity level periodically.

When sowing, it should be taken into account that the larkspur seed produces phytohormones that promote the germination of other grains. Therefore, gardeners recommend compacted sowing, which significantly increases germination.

When under winter sowing on the garden bed, they do it in a similar way. Be sure to cover the grains with a layer of soil, otherwise the germination process will slow down in the spring.

Seedling care at home

As soon as the first seedlings look out, it is necessary to remove the blackout shield and put the box on a well-lit windowsill. If cultivation is carried out at the end of winter, the plant may not have enough light, so the use of additional light is mandatory.

Important! The optimal temperature for the development of spur seedlings is 15-16⁰C; when the background rises to 20⁰C, seedlings are inhibited. This fact must be taken into account during cultivation at home.

For seedlings of horned cornflowers, it is customary to use watering through a pallet. It should be moderate, since excess moisture often triggers the development of the "black leg". A dangerous fungal disease will destroy tiny plants in 2 days. Water jets should not be allowed to hit the foliage mass. Under such an onslaught, the bushes will fall down and no longer rise.

The picking of seedlings is carried out at the stage of development of 1-2 leaves. For transplantation, individual cups or a cassette with a volume of 300 ml (diameter 9 cm) are used. They are filled with the same substrate that was used for sowing. The bushes are transplanted by the transshipment method, trying not to violate the integrity of the earthen clod around the roots. After transshipment, seedlings are protected from direct sunlight for several days.

You can feed the seedlings after 2 weeks, using a complete mineral complex. The second portion of top dressing is applied 2 weeks before planting in a flower bed. Give preference to potash fertilizers, they will increase the immunity of the culture. A month before transplanting to a permanent place, start accustoming seedlings to outdoor conditions - take the pots to the balcony, gradually increasing their exposure to fresh air.

Remember! Top dressing with a predominant dose of nitrogen is carried out only once - after picking. It will help the bushes to grow green mass faster.

When and how to plant seedlings in open ground

Delphinium seedlings are planted after the retreat of return frosts. Choose a place for the eastern guest, protected from strong winds and midday heat. From direct sunlight, flowering time will be reduced, and bright inflorescences fade.

The site is prepared in the fall, seasoned with compost or humus (5 kg per sq. M). Liming is carried out if necessary. In the spring, 50 g of potassium salt and superphosphate are added for digging. 2-3 days before planting, holes are prepared with a depth of 40-50 cm, the step between them depends on the selected variety. Large specimens will need 80-100 cm, undersized individuals will get along at a distance of 20-30 cm.

The hole is filled with a mixture of humus and peat in equal proportions. After watering, the seedlings are removed from the cups and placed in the hole, filled up required amount soil, carry out abundant watering. To speed up adaptation, a transparent shelter is used.

If sowing was carried out in the fall, thinning is carried out with the advent of spring shoots, leaving only strong specimens. After repeated thinning, at least half a meter should remain between the bushes.

Advice! It is undesirable to transplant the seedlings of the consolida, they will be sick for a long time, and may not take root at all.

Fundamentals of crop care in the garden

Caring for larkspur after disembarkation includes the following items:

1. Watering is carried out twice a week, pouring a bucket under the root of each individual warm water. Loosening and mulching is mandatory.
2. During budding, it is necessary to make 2-3 top dressings, excluding a high dose of nitrogen. Nitrogen fertilizers will expel a lot of greenery, slow down the appearance of bright flower stalks.
3. Tall representatives must be supported; hollow stems often break from the wind.
4. In undersized annuals, 6-7 peduncles are left, and in tall ones - only 3-4. Rationing the number of stems will have a beneficial effect on the health and decorativeness of the flower.
5. When the first batch of inflorescences wither, cut them off at the root. Most varieties of hybrid origin will re-bloom in 5-6 weeks.
6. Perennial species require dividing the bush and transplanting every 4 years.

The spur has a weak immunity to fungi and plant viruses. The danger is aster jaundice, fusarium, powdery mildew, mosaic, brown spot. For prevention, observe the irrigation regime and pickle planting material. Fungal diseases are treated with copper-containing drugs, fungicides. Of the pests, the danger is represented by aphids, nematodes, spur mites, orbia.

Attention! The crop pests are resistant to acaricides and systemic drugs. To combat them, use powerful modern insecticides based on prometrin and thiazon.

Preparing perennials for a dormant period

By the end of the season, the annual growth will wither and will need to be removed from the flower bed. perennial flower resumes in spring from dormant rhizome buds. The underground organ tolerates harsh winters well, provided there is a high snow cover. In autumn, the stems are cut at a height of 5 cm, and the holes must be covered with clay. Such a measure will protect the rhizome from decay as a result of the penetration of moisture through the stumps of the stems. It is advisable to sprinkle the flower bed with leaf litter to a height of 20 cm by the onset of frost, sketch a spruce branch on top. After the snow melts, be sure to remove the protection.

Description of new products with photos, features of their cultivation

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the most attractive cultivars, which gardeners deservedly consider the best. Description and small features cultivation you will find below.

New Zealand giant

A bright representative of the New Zealand group is the New Zealand Giant variety series. It includes several pure bright colors inherent in large double flowers. The series includes cultivars: Azure, Purple, Lime, Pink, Blush, Bridal Bouquet, Night, Ultraviolet, etc.

The perennial has high decorative qualities, but at the same time remains durable, frost-resistant and unpretentious. Every gardener dreams of decorating a flower bed with such a luxurious representative of the flora. The bush reaches a height of two meters, decorated with lush caps of dense inflorescences. Each peduncle contains up to hundreds of fluffy terry buds.

Know! A feature of the New Zealand giants is flowering in the second year after sowing.

The decorative period occurs twice per season - at the beginning of summer and by the end of August. Sowing activities are carried out in March with mandatory stratification in the refrigerator. When disembarking, a step between individuals of 80-100 cm is observed. A stately handsome man needs good support, a garter is made on 2-3 sections of the stem. The increased frost resistance of the New Zealand giant allows it to be grown without winter shelter.

Black Knight

The Black Knight is one of the new selections. Frost-resistant perennial forms dense bushes 150-180 cm high. Peduncles 80 cm long are crowned with large (up to 7 cm) semi-double and double flowers. Their inky blue coloration with a black center will not go unnoticed in a high group or when landing on the lawn.

Sowing begins in mid-spring, but even in this case, flowering occurs in the current season. It needs top dressing with organic matter and minerals, for which it will thank with rich shades by the end of summer. Decoration lasts up to one and a half months. You need to rejuvenate the Black Knight every 3-4 years. Winters without shelter, but needs support.

On a note! A year after landing, the Black Knight can please with repeated flowering.

crystal fountain

Another breeding novelty of unprecedented beauty is the Crystal Fountain. Tall bushes reach 1.5-2 m in height, stand out with dense spikes of huge snow-white double flowers. The plant blooms in the year of sowing after 4 months, stands out for a long and abundant flowering occurring due to the production a large number peduncles.

The crystal fountain is photophilous, exacting to moisture. It can be safely sown before winter or cultivated seedling way. The mighty giant does not need a garter. For the winter, it is better to cover the rhizome with spruce branches.

Hyacinth annual

Among annual delphiniums there are very beautiful plants. Hyacinth form is sold in the form of a mix of colors, which allows you to decorate any flower bed. This variety expels only one peduncle, hence the comparison with hyacinth. The bushes reach half a meter in height, the inflorescence is covered with small densely double flowers of various shades for the entire length of the stem. The undersized hyacinth form looks great on any type of flower bed, used for cutting.

Of the features of cultivation, it is worth noting the speed of development of the culture. It is sown directly in open ground in April or May, flowering occurs towards the end of summer. If you sow the mixture before winter, next season the decorative period will last all summer.

On a note! The unpretentiousness of hyacinth does not hold! The gardener needs to feed the plant in a timely manner and monitor the level of soil moisture, the bushes will take care of the renewal on their own.

Conclusion

Having become acquainted with the delphinium, it is hard not to fall in love with this unique creation of nature. Even a beginner can grow seedlings from seeds, so feel free to get down to business! Species diversity will allow you to choose a bright garden dweller for every taste.

Sometimes in the flower beds in the yards of experienced gardeners you can see a majestic and unusually spectacular plant - the delphinium. Caring for and growing a plant is a rather complicated and troublesome procedure. It often happens that not very beautiful flowers with a loose inflorescence grow from seeds bought in a store. In order to get lush bright plants, you need to follow certain technologies.

plant description

Delphinium is a powerful perennial with a height of 80 cm to 2 m. Its flowers are collected in cluster-shaped or paniculate inflorescences, elongated to 50 cm. The buds can be double or simple. Petals are most often painted in white, blue, blue or purple. Inside each flower grows two petals of a contrasting color to the main bouquet. They are called staminodes and are needed by the plant to attract insects. Terry varieties do not have such petals.

Planting seeds

So, what kind of care is needed for such a plant as a delphinium? Both the cultivation and cultivation of these flowers require the observance of certain technologies. Of course, plants first of all need to be planted correctly. You can buy delphinium seeds in the store. Before planting, they must be kept in the refrigerator. More than a year seeds cannot be stored.

At the first stage, small containers (for example, plastic cups) are a good place to grow young seedlings of a plant such as a delphinium. Landing is carried out in steamed and well-moistened soil. The earth should not reach the top of the cups by 1 cm. The seeds are laid out at a distance of about 2 cm from each other and slightly pressed into the soil. Then they are sprinkled with dry earth. Watering is not necessary. Wrap each container in black film and refrigerate for about two weeks.

Growing seedlings

After the appearance of the first shoots, the cups are transferred to the windowsill, removing the polyethylene. Each must be covered with a transparent lid. Thus, seedlings are grown until they reach it. Once a day, the lid must be removed for ventilation. Water the seedlings very carefully. It is best to do this with a thin stream from a syringe, filling the latter with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Twice a week, seedlings need to be fed with the addition of "Epin" (2 ampoules per 10 liters of water).

Dive

As soon as the seedlings have the first leaves (2-3), they will need to be transplanted into larger containers. You can take ordinary seedling boxes. The plant is buried to the point where the first true leaves grow. Grown up delphiniums are transferred to open ground immediately after the end of frost.

Choosing a place for delphiniums

Only in a well-lit area can you get a beautiful spectacular delphinium. Care for these plants will subsequently consist solely in periodic feeding and seating. The flower bed must be broken in a place protected from the wind. The fact is that delphiniums are plants quite high, and therefore they simply break under heavy loads. For the same reason, shoots more than half a meter long are tied to pegs. Do not plant delphiniums in places where groundwater is close to the surface.

Soil preparation

So, how to plant a delphinium? Care and cultivation will only be successful if the plant beds are prepared correctly. Delphiniums like slightly acidic or neutral soil, well fertilized. A hole is dug under the flower bed and filled with soil, consisting of carefully mixed garden soil, sand and rotted compost. In order for the plants to develop better, you can add Kemira fertilizer to the soil. Planted seedlings need to be properly filled. Abundantly moisten the soil under the plants will need to be periodically - until rooting. Bushes are planted at a distance of at least 70 cm from each other.

Delphinium: care and cultivation. How to fertilize?

For the first time, delphiniums are fertilized in the spring. In order to get lush inflorescences, nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer must be applied under the seedlings (with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus). In the spring, peat is poured under the bushes (with a layer of 2 cm). As soon as the plants pick up color, they need to be fertilized a second time. This time, 30 g of potassium and 50 g of superphosphate per 1 m 2 of soil are added to the soil. In August, ammonium sulfate (30 g), (20 g), ammonium nitrate (10 g) and superphosphate (60 g) can be added under plants.

How to water?

Watering adult plants require only in very dry periods. in delphiniums, it is simply remarkably developed and goes deep into the ground. Therefore, under normal conditions, the plant is able to obtain enough moisture for growth on its own. However, the soil under freshly planted or recently transplanted delphiniums needs to be watered.

Delphinium: landing in the fall

If desired, you can plant delphiniums in the fall. Do this in late August or early September. The bed in this case is prepared in the same way as in the spring. Garden soil is mixed with humus, "Kemira" and compost. You can also add some ash.

Dividing and transplanting plants

In the same place, delphiniums can be successfully grown for about 10 years. But it often happens that already in the fourth or sixth year, the middle of the bush begins to rot. Of course, this significantly reduces the decorative value of a plant such as a delphinium. Transplanting it, meanwhile, is not a particularly complicated procedure. The bush just needs to be dug up and the roots divided. On each piece, no more than 3-4 adult shoots surrounded by green growth should remain.

Reproduction by shoots

The delphinium plant, which is most often planted by seeds or by dividing the roots, can also be grown from cuttings if desired. For this, shoots with a length of at least 10 cm are suitable. Before planting, they are kept in a heteroauxin solution for about 2 hours. After that, they are stuck into a moistened sand-peat mixture and covered with a jar or polyethylene. Within a month and a half, the soil at the petioles must be constantly moistened. It is this period that they need for rooting.

Preparing for winter

Adult delphiniums endure winter very well. Young ones, as well as those just transplanted, should be covered for the winter with spruce branches or film. The latter, in order to prevent the wind from blowing it away, needs to be dug around the edges with earth. Mature plants are pruned before the onset of cold weather. At the same time, at least 30 cm of each shoot should remain above the soil surface. Thus, it is possible to reliably protect the delphinium. Planting these flowers in the fall is done quite often. Such young plants can generally be simply buried with earth.

Diseases and pests

Of the pests beautiful plant most often damaged by the delphinium fly, slugs, aphids and nematodes. There are certain methods of dealing with these insects. by the most dangerous pest considered to be the delphinium fly. This insect lays its eggs at the base of the plant stem. Therefore, when transplanting delphiniums, their roots should be examined as carefully as possible. Be sure to add "Bazudin" to the hole. If these insects are seen in the flower bed, it should be treated with a weak solution of karbofos.

How about bouquets

grow these wonderful plants in our country started not so long ago. At the permanent exhibition of flowers in Kazan, being presented for the first time, they once made a splash. Today, in courtyards and gardens, you can mainly see the New Zealand delphinium or cultural (complex hybrid). In bouquets, his flowers look just great. Cut inflorescences to extend the safety must be turned over and pour water into the hollow trunk. In order for it not to spill out, the green "tube" is clogged with a cotton swab. Delphiniums look best in narrow tall vases. These flowers will retain their freshness for a long time - about 10 days.

Delphiniums as part of landscape design

Well, now you know when to transplant the delphinium. What role can this plant play in On the plot, delphiniums are always planted in groups. This makes the plant look much better. At the same time, it is worth growing varieties with inflorescences of different colors in one flower bed. Very often it is delphiniums that are used as background plants in mixborders. At the same time, it’s nice to combine them with phloxes, roses, lilies, dahlias. Sometimes delphiniums are planted at the front porch of a house or along its facade.

I have been growing delphiniums from seeds for 13 years. Having tried many ways of sowing seeds, by trial and error for the first time I achieved 100% seed germination the year before last. I will tell about this improved technology using the example of sowing seeds of New Zealand hybrids, in which amateur flower growers have recently shown particular interest. It is necessary to sow the seeds in February, so that by March the plants are already basking in the spring sunshine, and not under the lamps. Seeds before planting must be soaked, kept for at least a day in water with seed germination stimulants (Epin, Zircon, Immunocytophyte and others, make the solution according to the attached instructions). The seeds should not float on the surface, they should sink to the bottom of the container in which you soak them. The solution above the seeds should be no higher than 1.5 cm. You need to monitor this and add the solution if necessary. Seeds should be washed in boiled water before sowing. For growing seedlings, I use new small plastic translucent food containers with a transparent lid, having made holes from the bottom with a needle. I take the soil only the best store-bought for seeds, for example "Live Earth". I sow the seeds in a well-spilled and leveled soil with a distance of 1.5 cm between them, so that later it will be easier to dive the grown seedlings. I sprinkle it on top with the same soil sifted through a strainer, with a layer of no more than 3 mm (only it must be dried in advance, so you cannot sift wet soil through a strainer). You can also do this: make a recess with a match to a depth of 3-4 mm and put a seed there. After sowing all the seeds on the surface of the container, sprinkle the recesses with earth. Then put several layers of newspaper on the surface of the soil according to the internal size of the container. Before that, I soak newspapers in disinfectant solution Fundazola, so that mold does not form under them. Damp newspaper on top of the soil in the container keeps the layer where the seeds are moist. I put the containers in the refrigerator in a compartment with a temperature of + 2-4 ° C so that the seeds undergo stratification. After two weeks, I take it out, look through it and place the containers on a cool window with a temperature not higher than + 20 ° C. I monitor the spitting of seeds in order to remove the newspaper in time. If in some containers the seeds have already hatched in the refrigerator, then I take off the newspaper and put the containers also on a cool window with a temperature of less than + 20 ° C, preferably with an exact temperature of + 16 ° C to peck the rest of the seeds. This can take up to 2 weeks. At the same time, other seeds that have already hatched should begin to be illuminated, at least with a simple lamp. And every morning you need to open the container, remove the condensate on the walls, ventilate the crops a little and, if necessary, moisten the ground. The container should be kept closed until the plants are strong enough. In May, if there is no cold weather, you can take it out into the open air in the shade, gradually open the containers - let the seedlings grow in the air. I constantly spill the earth in containers with a weak solution of Fundazol or potassium permanganate. I water only through the pan so that a surface crust does not form. I dive seedlings when the thickness of the stems becomes 2 mm, by this time a good root system is growing. When picking, I take the plant only by the cotyledon leaves and bury it in the ground to the point of growth of real leaves. root system when transplanting, I recommend pollinating with Ukorinit powder. Make sure that the earth does not dry out, otherwise your delphiniums may die one day. Once every 2 weeks, I fertilize seedlings with a solution of phosphorus-potassium fertilizer half the concentration than for adult plants, but with the addition of Epin (2 ampoules per 10 liters of water) or Zircon (1 ampule per 10 liters of water). It is better to plant seedlings that have grown stronger not in the garden, but in small containers with good soil, where it will be more difficult for slugs to get them. In the garden, you may not keep track of the slugs, which are especially fond of young delphiniums. Igor Arkatov, florist-collector. Kazan. Photo by Lubov Ern. Come visit Igor Sergeevich at