Garlic planting and care in the open field. Growing winter garlic in open ground

In addition to the general rules, the care, planting and cultivation of garlic has its own characteristics for winter and spring species. For the full development of the plant and the preservation of the crop, it is also necessary to ensure the fight against diseases and pests.

General rules for growing garlic: types and methods of propagation

Growing garlic has some nuances for the following types:

- winter. Gives an arrow, very resistant to frost. It is planted in autumn, it hibernates, and next season a full-fledged large head grows;

- spring. Does not give an arrow. Landing - in the spring, it is able to store more rows, but its yield is not so high.

Propagation methods, selection of cloves and seeds

Garlic reproduces vegetatively, the arrowhead species also reproduces by seeds.

For planting, only cloves of bulbs are selected from the spring species, winter can be propagated with cloves and seeds from air bulbs. But in the latter case, it is necessary to wait 2 years for the harvest of full-fledged bulbs.

For the first year, the bulb will give a small onion-set from one clove. She has the same useful qualities like regular garlic. On the next year a normal bulb will grow with many cloves.

Gardeners often prefer arrowhead garlic: it gives a good harvest.

shooter winter garlic

Reproduction is mainly carried out by teeth: a crop of full-fledged bulbs is harvested in the year of planting. Every gardener knows how important it is to select the best, healthiest seed. It is also recommended to periodically update varieties. When selecting heads, the type - spring or winter - is not important - they choose the healthiest and highest quality ones according to the shape, weight of the cloves.

Necessary actions before planting:

— sorting of material by size and appearance. Remove small, infected with diseases, with bottoms in cracks, irregular in shape, with two tips, shrunken, doubled garlic;

- remove dry, flabby teeth with any diseases;

- leave intact, large, with a whole shell of garlic;

- the selected material is subject to disinfection with an ash solution: 400 g of ash per 200 g of water. The mixture is boiled for half an hour, then cooled, drained. Teeth get wet in it for 2 hours. If there is a suspicion of infection with a fungus, the heads are kept in a formalin solution, and then dried.

Planting and cultivation of spring varieties of garlic is also carried out germinated material: This will speed up the growth of the plant.

Necessary conditions for germination: the teeth are wrapped with a damp cloth, placed in a polyethylene bag, kept for 3 days, at room temperature. If grown with seeds from arrows, then healthy arrows with large baskets are selected and dried. The largest and most mature ones are used - small ones are also planted, but they will not give high-quality planting material.

Growing garlic: soil, beds, crop rotation

Proper cultivation garlic includes soil care and fertilization. If she is poor, they introduce her additionally complex fertilizer or superphosphates with potassium chloride (proportion 4: 1). Ordinary manure added to the ground in autumn will increase the yield. It will require 5 kg per 1 sq. m., if the soil is very poor, you can increase this rate. But don't overuse it: garlic does not like too fertilized soil. The soil should be light, sandy or loamy.

Growing garlic will give good results if you create the necessary conditions, including sufficiently fertile soil, top dressing, watering. Sandy or loamy fertile soils that garlic loves should be cultivated and acidity closer to neutral. An excessively moist substrate, especially during the period when the soil is gaining moisture from melt water in the spring, harms the development of the plant. In this case, winter varieties will get wet, and spring varieties will become impossible to plant on time.

Depending on the species to be planted, different depths, row widths, and row spacings are chosen. General care and necessary conditions in all cases:

- carefully leveled land, top dressing mulching beds after planting. For this, humus is used, less often - peat. For 1 sq. m. 10 liters will be enough, that is, a bucket.

- planting is done in beds with wide aisles. Place for them: Sunny, well lit.

bed for garlic

Below are the necessary conditions regarding the neighborhood of other plants and crop shifts. The main thing is not to plant garlic in the beds where he and onions were before. After them, you need to wait 4 years to renew the soil. The same goes for potatoes. After beets, cucumbers, cabbage, any legumes, pumpkin, garlic will give the best harvest. The soil after them, as a rule, is optimally fertilized with organic matter, it is easier to care for it, and the possibility of disease damage is reduced. But sharing the same beds with them is not recommended: they inhibit the development and growth of garlic.

The best planting for light-loving garlic - on separate unshaded beds. If there is not much space, they organize rows adjacent to vegetables, it is also possible with berries. Neighborhood allowed with carrots, cucumbers, potatoes, black currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries. Neighborhood with gladioli, tulips, roses will be beneficial. Caring for the latter will be easier: garlic protects them from black spot.

Growing garlic spring varieties

For spring varieties, planting in the spring is relevant.

The necessary conditions:

- planting after the snow has melted (April - May);

– temperature mode of disembarkation from +5°C and above. At this time, the soil is usually wet, so watering is not needed. If the soil is dry, you will need to moisten the soil abundantly.

- the spring variety is planted at a depth of twice the height of the clove (3-5 cm). If the clove was germinated, it is necessary to plant it carefully so as not to harm the roots. Next, immediately mulch the beds. Planting and growing garlic is not particularly difficult. Rows are made with an interval of 18–20 cm, garlic is placed after 7–9 cm.

Garlic sprouts at + 3 ° C and above, it is not afraid of frost.

Prerequisites for better development on the different stages:

– beginning of vegetation: +5…+10°C;

– origin, formation of bulbs: +15…+20°C;

— development and maturation: +20…+25°C.

For a quality harvest, mulching the beds is mandatory, especially if the crop grows in a region with hot summers. Mulch is recommended light (from straw, hay).

planting garlic cloves

Planting garlic winter varieties

Growing garlic of winter varieties has its own characteristics. Prerequisites for this:

— disembarkation time: September October. Timeliness is important: early will cause growth ahead of time, which will reduce frost resistance; late - the cloves will not have the strength to take root well, frost will prevent this;

— the soil should settle, so the site is prepared a week before landing. Further, furrows are created, a layer of coarse sand or ash of 1.5–3 cm is poured on their bottom, so the seedlings will not come into contact with the soil and rot;

— interval between rows - 20–25 cm, garlic is planted after 8–10 cm or 12–15 if they are very large. For winter crops, a deeper planting is desirable - 8 cm with loose soil.

— care includes mulching of beds: this additionally protects from the cold. A 1.5–2 cm layer of mulch is enough. It is made from dry peat, a mixture of sawdust and earth. With severe frosts and little snow cover, the beds are covered with polyethylene, and roofing material is also suitable. But they need to be removed immediately, when the snow begins to fall, so that it covers the ground. Instead of these materials, you can use a thicker layer of mulch.

Planting seeds from bulbs-bulbs is carried out at the same time to a depth of 2 cm, according to a planting pattern of 2x10 cm. in early spring- by mid-April. The single-tooth crop obtained from the arrows is pulled out of the ground, dried, planted again - the next year they give full-fledged bulbs. Winter garlic is resistant to cold. Rooted garlics endure winter and frosts with temperatures down to -20°C. But if little snow fell, too low temperature can lead to freezing, so be sure to mulch the beds, throw snow on them and cover.

In the warm season, winter varieties require the same care as spring varieties: the temperature regime, watering, top dressing, mulch in the summer months are the same.

flower arrows in the corresponding winter species, they are removed when they reach 10 cm, thanks to which the harvest is more generous. Plants with arrows are left if bulb bulbs are needed for seeds.

Growing garlic: care, watering, feeding

Growing garlic and caring for it consists of the following items: mulching, watering, loosening, top dressing, weeding.

Watering garlic should not be too plentiful. The norm is watering 10 liters per square meter if the soil is very dry. The interval is a week. As the water matures, less water is required (8-6 liters) so that the bulbs do not rot. Stop watering two weeks before harvest. Irrigation can be characterized next rule: excessive moisture harms garlic, but it requires systematic soil moisture, especially in early period vegetation.

After each moistening carefully loosened 2-3 cm. If there is mulch, this is not required. Arrows are removed when they reach 5–8 cm - the harvest will be more generous. The first feeding is done after 2-3 leaves have formed: a large spoonful of urea is diluted in a bucket of water. For 1 sq.m. 5 liters will be enough. The next top dressing is in two weeks: a teaspoon of urea is enough for a bucket of water, one large spoonful of double superphosphate, potassium sulfate. The third (last) top dressing is at the end of June, when garlic is formed, bulbs are formed and arrows appear. For a bucket of water, 2 large spoons of double superphosphate and one - potassium sulfate are enough.

top dressing combined with irrigation. In the period between fertilizers, the plants are sprinkled with wood ash: one glass per 1 sq. m. If there is mulch, loosening is not required. The best straw mulch for garlic. The bed is covered with it when the seedlings reach 10-15 cm. It does not allow moisture to evaporate - watering can be done less frequently.

Top dressing is also carried out according to the following scheme:

- the first: in the spring after the snow melts. For this, solutions are well suited: manure (cow) (1:10) or bird droppings (1:12);

- second: June - July. The solution is prepared from ash: 200 g per 10 liters of water.

weeding carried out systematically as weeds appear. Watering for winter varieties should be more abundant. In winter, the beds are covered with snow.

Watering rules:

- the first phase (active growth) - plentiful;

- the second phase (bulb ripening) - moderate;

- during the rainy period, watering is stopped altogether.

High humidity in the second half of the growing season can be the cause of disease and decay of the bulbs.

Garlic from the head must be detached at the time of the landing itself. It is recommended to choose the most extreme slices: from them the harvest is more generous. Planting is carried out not by pressing into the soil, but by placing it in a dug hole.

As soon as shoots are shown, the soil is loosened, but only 1–2 cm deep, then the bed is mulched, and pre-fertilizing with mullein or urea is done. If the soil of the bed is dry, it should be watered, otherwise the garlic will be dry and bitter.

Growing garlic of spring varieties does not require deep landing- 2–3 cm is enough, for winter crops - 8 cm. The crop is harvested as soon as the leaves begin to wither.

Growing Garlic: Pests and Diseases

Growing garlic is often accompanied by diseases:

— helminthospirosis. The reason is fungus. Brown sunken spots on teeth. Over time, the spots turn black, the tissue of the teeth rots. Planting is not done with such teeth: chlorotic spots will appear on the plants, they will be lethargic, the leaves will die. More often affects garlic with white scales. Infection occurs through poor-quality material, so it is etched with formalin - 2-3 ml per half liter of water is enough. The teeth are lowered into it for 10 minutes in a bag. Pulled out, wrapped in cloth for 2 hours, then dried and ventilated. Garlic can become infected with this disease in the garden from bulbous or nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes);

— neck rot. Appears along with other diseases. It especially develops with improper storage and transportation, as well as on unripened and wet heads. Infection can occur from diseased planting material or from the soil. Treatment: formalin disinfection of the storage area, sorting and removal of diseased material;

— Donets rot - Fusarium. The reason is fungus. Symptoms: yellow leaves, dying off of the roots, a raid of mycelium (mycelium) on the bottom of a white, pink hue, it is he who causes the bulb to rot. Good treatment results are obtained by the fungicide "Kvadris", anti-fungal agents are also used;

— bacterial rot. The causative agents are bacteria. Symptoms: brown sores on garlic, they become glassy, ​​color changes, there is a smell of rot. Treatment: before planting, pickle in blue vitriol, in a fungicide, for example, in Fundazol;

— powdery mildew- peronospirosis. Symptoms: gray tinge on leaves, arrows, dried affected parts of the plant, unripe bulbs. Means: dressing with the fungicide "Tiram", fentiuram. Spraying with fungicides ("Arcerid", polycarbacid);

— white rot. The reason is fungus. Symptoms: yellowing, death of leaves, white mycelium on roots, bulbs. Means: dressing before planting with Tiram, foundationazole, anti-fungal agents;

— green mold penicillosis. Means: disinfection of the soil with copper-containing fungicides, care for planting material and its dressing with formalin;

— black mold - stemfiliasis. Symptoms: yellow spots on the leaves, which gradually become covered with black mold. This is not fatal, but reduces the yield. Means such as against other fungal ailments;

- stem nematode. Treatment: etching in a solution of potassium permanganate and formalin.

fusarium

Folk remedies for the fight against garlic diseases:

- against powdery mildew. Ash solution: 200 g per 10 l, aged for 5 days. Mullein infusion: 1 kg per 10 liters of water, you need to insist for a day. For spraying, a decoction of horsetail is also used;

- against fungal diseases. Infusion of erect marigolds: 500 g pour 10 liters hot water, insist 12 hours.

Of the pests, the most dangerous onion flies, their larvae, they feed on bulbs. Dangerous are onion hoverflies, thrips, secretive proboscis, moths, stem nematodes, as well as mites: root and garlic. Control means: insecticides "Rogor" or "Keltan", pickling with colloidal sulfur.

Protect garlic planted next to chicory, calendula.

Prevention and necessary conditions for the exclusion of diseases:

- planting and growing garlic only from healthy seed, which is systematically checked and sorted during storage;

- etching if necessary;

- ventilation, cleaning, removal of organic residues from storage facilities;

- proper care, crop rotation and crop change;

- well-lit beds.

Few vegetables are as popular as garlic. This is a barrier against infections, and an excellent culinary seasoning, and even protection from dark forces. He is not afraid not only of evil spirits, but also of severe frosts, therefore he is grown in all latitudes. Moreover, this is one of the crops that can be planted in the winter. Consider the benefits different ways planting, basic rules for choosing varieties and the main nuances of growing garlic in open field.

From the whole variety of varieties, two large categories can be distinguished - spring (the one that is planted in the spring, usually in April) and winter (for planting in the winter). The latter, in turn, is divided into shooters and non-shooters. The advantage of not having arrows seems obvious, however, this is not always the case.

spring garlic

Advantages:

• It is distinguished by greater keeping quality, dries out less, therefore, with an eye to storage and workpieces, it is better to plant it.
• Does not give arrows.

Disadvantages:

• It tends to gradually degenerate, lose productivity and accumulate infections, since it has to be propagated by teeth. Namely, they transmit signs of degeneration, disease and infection from generation to generation. It is possible to get a healthy gene pool from arrows, from air bulbs (bulbs). It takes two years to restore full-fledged bulbs; in the first year, seeds give only single teeth.
• In terms of commodity indicators, the harvest of this species is inferior to winter plantings.
• Gives a large number of teeth (usually they grow in two tiers), which means their smaller size.

Video review of growing spring garlic

Winter garlic

Advantages:

• More bountiful harvest.
• Bulbs with large teeth.
• Early rises, respectively, gives earlier maturation.
• By the end of July, the bed is free and can be used for sowing other early crops or planting so-called green manure grasses, which quickly increase their green mass. They make an excellent natural fertilizer for embedding in the soil in the fall.

Disadvantages:

• Low keeping quality. save the harvest winter crop even if all favorable conditions succeeds until the beginning of next winter.
• Shoots friendly.

Features and rules of cultivation before winter

Planting is done about a month before the expected frost. By the time of their onset, the cloves should already be firmly rooted, but not yet give visible shoots.

But it is difficult to predict the weather, and this vegetable is not afraid of light frosts, so often it still manages to sprout. In this case, they should be sprinkled with sawdust, earth or non-woven material, and they will overwinter painlessly. The following rules will help to properly plant garlic in the winter:

• When buying planting material, be sure to ask in which region it was grown. Only local harvest or specially released varieties will have good commercial characteristics. This is especially true for shopping on the Internet and in gardening markets.
• Select well-dried bulbs with no signs of disease. To check, you need to clean one of them to choose from and check for stains, rot, yellowness, etc.
• Do not use heads with crooked cloves, the number of which exceeds 10-12 pieces in this bulb. This speaks of the degeneration of the variety and the diseases that will be inherited.
• Prematurely sprouted cloves are not suitable for winter planting they will give too fast shoots, not having time to take root, and die at the first frost.
• If the cover scales are cracked at the head or it breaks up with teeth, it means that it was overexposed in the ground, it is not suitable for planting.
• The teeth should be separated immediately at the time of planting. Premature detachment of the root bed from the mother liquor leads to the loss of its viability.
• Use only the largest and most beautiful bulbs from last year's harvest for seeds.

No matter how beautiful the Chinese garlic, which is sold in abundance in supermarkets, may seem, it is not suitable for cultivation in cold mid-latitudes!

Site preparation and disembarkation

It is necessary to prepare the soil 3-4 weeks before the proposed sowing. The bed needs to be dug up on a shovel bayonet, filled with organic and mineral fertilizers (potassium and phosphorus content is required), watered and let the earth “lie down”.

With increased acidity of the soil, vegetable ash or dolomite flour should be additionally added to it.

Garlic (winter especially) loves high places, swamps are worse for him than any frost. Therefore, the beds must be made high so that they do not know the flood.

Between the rows, a distance of 20-25 cm should be left, the teeth should be planted in them after about 10-15 cm, but with an eye on their size. The larger they are, the greater the distance required between the roots. Since they cannot all be the same, as in the selection, it is better to calibrate them in advance in size. The optimal depth is 6-7 cm. It is not recommended to germinate this culture in advance due to the fragility of the roots. Damaged roots lead to disease and stunting.

Crop rotation

For good harvest garlic and minimizing harm from diseases and pests, it is important to choose the right neighbors and predecessors in the garden. A useful neighborhood will be such crops as potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, spices and leafy greens. Currant bushes protect well from pests. Berries feel great near garden strawberries, as well as bulbous flowers. But the neighborhood with legumes is contraindicated for both garlic and legumes themselves. Plant them as far apart as possible.

It is important to correctly resolve the issue with the predecessors. Categorically not suitable for this radish, beets, turnips. Surprisingly, some cultures that are great for the neighborhood are categorically not suitable as predecessors. These are bulbs, celery, some herbs (basil, cilantro, lemon balm, mint). It is best to plant garlic after last year's plantings of cabbage, zucchini, squash, tomatoes, potatoes.

Alternative boarding method

If there is not enough space for the classic version, you can use the "cunning" two-tier method. The laying of the first tier is carried out to a depth of 12 cm, after which it is half covered with earth and above it, at a normal depth, the second tier is planted. The lower "floor" feels good and grows no worse than the upper one, the roots of which do not reach it, and therefore do not interfere. At the same time, with a very severe winter, it is guaranteed to survive. Digging a two-story crop must be done very carefully.

When using your own seeds, after a few years it is better to completely change it to grown from seeds in order to avoid degeneration and inheritance of diseases.

top dressing

As soon as the active growth of the shoots begins, fertilizing with mullein, biohumus or diluted chicken manure should be done. In the aisles, it is good to pour ashes or sparsely decompose rotted manure to repel pests.

After the appearance of the fourth leaf, urea is fertilized, and as soon as the beginning of the formation of the bulb becomes visible, superphosphate is added. After that, no more fertilizing is done, the plant will pull the vitality from the green.

An old grandfather's recipe for a rich harvest: planting a clove in the ground, pour 1 tbsp into each hole. furnace soot or ash.

Determining the need for fertilizer by appearance

Tops drying

The slow formation of shoots and their drying out indicates a general deficiency of nutrients in the soil. An organomineral supplement is required, consisting of an equal amount (2 tablespoons per bucket of warm water) of urea and chicken, duck, turkey and pigeon droppings. If one of them is not available, it can be replaced by another in the same proportions. Irrigation calculation - 3-4 liters per sq. m. The procedure is repeated after 2 weeks.

Yellowing of haulm

If the lack of moisture is excluded, the cause may be a lack of nitrogen. For 7 liters of boiling water, add 1 tbsp. ammonium nitrate, stir well, cool and use once a week for watering.

Faded leaf color, reduced color intensity

Lack of potassium fertilizers. Feeding with calcium chloride or potassium nitrate can alternatively be replaced with organic ash plant origin. Spread in a thin layer after good rain or abundant watering.

Watering

Watering this crop in the absence of regular rainfall is a must. The phase of intensive growth and formation of the underground part (the first half of the growing season) is especially important.

Diseases and pests

Unfortunately, garlic is susceptible to many potential diseases and pests, of which there are about a hundred. Consider only the most common and most harmful of them.

Pests

stem nematode

It can easily destroy the entire crop in the bud. The nematode does not tolerate table salt, salt is added to the water for irrigation and for soaking the seed before planting.

root mite

It affects during storage and, being unnoticed, is introduced into the soil with seeds. Turns the pulp of the teeth into brown dust. Requires careful control over the quality of seed.

Four-legged garlic mite

Not only destroys crops, but is also a carrier of infections. Since the tick is not an insect, most insecticides are powerless against it. It is necessary to use insectoacaricidal or acaricidal preparations. The acidity of the soil should also be reduced.

onion fly

Afraid of tobacco dust, ash and shag, as well as red and black hot peppers.

Diseases

Rust

black mold

Inhibits plants, causes rotting and death. There are no chemical methods of control, it is necessary correct crop rotation, cultivation, loosening.

Fusarium

It affects mainly winter plantings. It is also a fungal disease, which can only be eliminated at the stage of working with seeds. Signs of infection are pearly yellow teeth, brownish sores or stripes on them.

With proper planting and minimal care, this crop requires almost no attention. But it is necessary to provide light, space and moisture, otherwise the commodity indicators of the crop will significantly decrease. It is best to cultivate both types of garlic in the garden at once - spring and winter. Winter is good for summer harvesting, pickling, and spring is for storage until the next harvest.

Garlic is rightly called a folk healer, natural antibiotic, antifungal agent. Many young gardeners, trying to grow it on their own in the country, make a lot of mistakes in agricultural technology, and as a result, the garlic grows small, and the crop is small. In the article we will talk about the simple rules of cultivation, which should not be neglected.

The difference between winter garlic and spring garlic

Growing garlic is not too difficult and not at all expensive. It is clear that winter garlic is the one that is planted in the fall, closer to the winter cold. Spring, or summer, is planted in the spring and harvested in the fall. Many prefer winter, but both species are well grown. teeth winter garlic smaller and arranged in a circle from the stem in only one row, the spring cloves have much more.

Species also reproduce in different ways: spring only with cloves, winter - with bulbs or cloves. Soil fertility is important for winter crops: it should be loamy or sandy loamy soils with neutral acidity.

Garlic is recommended to be planted in each area, because. its leaves and bulbous head can perfectly repel harmful insects: caterpillars, slugs, butterflies. And even the moles that appeared on the site will leave the pungent smell.

You can plant the plant on a separate bed, but if there is no extra space on the site, then it’s good to plant garlic with other crops. A good neighborhood will be with flowers: rose, gladiolus, tulip. You can also arrange plantings next to strawberries, raspberries, onions, potatoes, gooseberries. Just don't plant garlic next to beans, cabbage, or peas.

It is not advisable to plant winter garlic in one place for more than three years in a row.

Winter garlic is stored less in time, and by February the teeth begin to dry out and additional measures have to be taken to keep the crop until spring.

Planting winter garlic - preparatory work

Landing winter garlic in open ground depends on the variety and timing of sowing. There are arrows (forms a head with large 4-6 teeth and air bulbs) and non-shoots (a head with large quantity teeth) varieties.

It is advisable to plant garlic 25-30 days before the onset of constant cold weather. During this period, the teeth will have time to give roots, but the stems and leaves will not appear yet.

To prepare planting material, you need to sort the garlic into large and medium heads. Bulbs with only 2-3 cloves, even if they are quite large, should not be taken. A small number indicates that the plant will soon degenerate. By the way, if garlic is propagated only with teeth for several years, it will also degenerate due to the accumulation of pathogens of various bulbous diseases.

To be sure that the garlic is healthy, you need to soak the teeth in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 10-12 hours. And you can not remove the upper scales, they protect against diseases. Remove the teeth that have cracks on the bottom.

When planting with bulbs, you need to dry them properly and remove the leaves. And use only large specimens, from small ones a good harvest will not work.

Winter garlic has a weak root system, therefore, the upper layers of the soil must be sufficiently fertile. It is undesirable to plant in the lowlands, as in the spring a lot of melt water accumulates there. Also on the hills the best place- the wind blows snow from the plantings, which leads to freezing of the soil.

When choosing a place to plant, remember that the plants that grew there before the garlic should be harvested back in July so that the earth has time to rest. It can be early varieties cabbage and legumes, as well as pumpkin.

The beds are prepared a week before planting garlic. They should be 20–25 cm high and at least a meter wide. Another prerequisite: the direction of the beds should be from north to south, then the earth will warm up as much as possible both in autumn and in spring. Choose places that are well lit and not shaded by others. high cultures. Otherwise, the heads will form small.

The earth should be dug up, weeds removed and fresh humus (but not manure) added, as well as a tablespoon of potassium salt and superphosphate per 1 square meter of soil. And a couple of days before landing, add a teaspoon of ammonium nitrate per square meter. Water the ground and cover with a film to keep warm until planting. It is better not to fertilize with manure, otherwise the garlic will grow loose and completely unsuitable for storage. And there will be too much nitrate in the cloves.

Planting garlic before winter - all work and further care in the fall

Before planting teeth or bulbs, we check how warm the soil is. At a depth of 5 cm should be about 10 degrees. We level the bed well, between the rows there should be about 20 cm, and between the teeth about 10 cm. The soil should not be too compacted, and not too loose, but only slightly compacted.

Large teeth can be planted to a depth of 9–10 cm, and medium specimens can be deepened by 6–7 cm. Bulbs are planted 3–4 cm deep according to the same planting pattern. We do not strongly press them into the ground so that the growth of the roots does not linger.

So that severe frost does not kill your plantings, you need to mulch the soil. This can be done by laying out straw (with a layer of 1.5–2 cm) or a mixture of sawdust with earth or peat. And as soon as the cold sets in, it is advisable to cover the beds with roofing material, but remove it with the first snow. Winter garlic can withstand temperatures down to minus 20 degrees, but at more severe frost may die despite good care.

We carefully remove the mulch when the snow melts in the spring so as not to damage the sprouts that may already appear. And as soon as the soil dries, we loosen the plantings.

Garlic care in spring - watering, fertilizing, weeding

For winter garlic, fertilizing with potash and phosphorus fertilizers is useful. The first fertilization is carried out in early spring in the frozen ground. We mix half a glass of superphosphate, potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate in a bucket of water and water the plantings under the root. We carry out the second feeding in a month. And the third - when the heads grow from a walnut. We also use urea for feeding: we take one tablespoon on a bucket. It is enough to water once a month.

Naturally, caring for winter garlic consists in timely watering and weeding. It is not necessary to loosen the ground often, it is enough once or twice a week to a depth of 3 cm, and also after rains and watering, so that the soil is saturated with oxygen. It is often not necessary to water the garlic, as it does not like waterlogging. Therefore, it is enough to water once a week, but abundantly - a bucket per square meter. We water for the first time together with top dressing in early May, and almost a month before harvesting we stop watering altogether.

If you want to grow strong and large garlic, then the arrows must be removed at a height of 10 cm. Do not pull them out, but only cut them off or gently break them. Then all nutrients will be directed only to the growth of a large head.

Garlic diseases you need to know about: various fungal and viral diseases. Chemistry is not recommended, it is better to use biofungicides. They are both practical and do not pose a threat to health. We process plantings with them from the first days until harvest. Then you can easily get healthy product. If you did everything right, and the plants began to turn yellow and wither, it means that an infection has got: powdery mildew, leaf rust, white rot, etc.

In this case, you should immediately start treating the plants with preparations, which are many in gardening stores. How to use them, we read in the instructions, the concentration of drugs should not be changed, otherwise there will be no results.

Numerous pests can also interfere with growth and getting a good harvest. This is onion fly, stem nematode, mites and others. So that they do not appear on plants, planting garlic must be pickled, and the soil and plants should be treated with bioinsecticides. They are not harmful to plants and humans, and pests do not get used to them.

It is useful to plant marigolds and calendula along the edges of garlic beds, the juice and smell of which repel pests.

Harvesting garlic and sending it to storage

Winter garlic is usually harvested in late July-early August. Harvesting of non-shooting garlic is carried out when new feathers cease to form, and the old ones have fallen to the ground. The heads are already fully formed and with a characteristic color. Shooting garlic is harvested when air bulbs begin to crumble to the ground, and the leaves turn yellow. Also, maturity can be determined by the arrows: until the heads are ripe, the arrows curl and bend. When ripe, the arrows straighten.

The harvested crop is dried, preferably in the sun, cut and sorted: the best specimens are left for planting, the rest are sent for harvesting and storage. Leaves and stems would be good to lay in the compost pit.

It's important to get everything done on time. But if the garlic was removed earlier, the bulbs should be placed in a place protected from the sun and well ventilated, where it will ripen. Leaves do not break off immediately useful material gone to the head. If you suddenly removed the garlic later, it will be overripe and cannot be stored for a long time, it will begin to rot. Use some of this garlic in preparations.

Harvest must be harvested correctly, i.e. not pull out, but dig. When pulling, the shell of the bulbs can be damaged, and they will not last long, and some of the cloves may remain in the soil.

If you left garlic with arrows in which cloves form in the bulbs, then you should not remove them along with all the garlic. They need to be left for a couple more weeks. Then the inflorescence must be carefully cut, collected in bunches and dried in a ventilated room for 30 days. During this time, the air bulbs will finally form and ripen. If planting in the fall, sort the bulbs by size first. If you leave for spring planting, then let the garlic be stored in bunches until spring.

Most good conditions for storage - a dark and cool room. Best Temperature+18 degrees. If you're not going to store in bunches, then choose breathable bags or boxes with holes in which the garlic can be sprinkled with onion peels.

Highly good way to save the garlic that you want to plant in the spring, this is when cold weather sets in, bury the onions in plastic bags in the ground. To a depth of about 50–60 cm. Onions preserved in this way can be planted quite early in the spring.

Garlic is a fairly popular and unpretentious culture. It is easy to care for and easy to grow. Garlic is useful in many dishes and preparations for the winter. If you use all the recommendations correctly: take care of the beds, observe the sowing and harvesting dates, apply fertilizers on time, then the garlic harvest will be excellent.

Culture is indispensable on the table for many summer residents. Growing garlic is a simple process, everyone can cope with the task. Attention to detail, the desire and diligence of the summer resident will allow you to get high yield. It takes very little: to choose the right place and variety.

Everyone can grow garlic at home. Most summer residents plant crops in the fall. To do this, you need to correctly calculate the landing time. The vegetable grower calculates the day, taking into account the climate of the region of residence. Therefore, the landing period varies from mid-October to November. How earlier garlic will be in the ground, the larger the heads will be. Spring garlic is planted in early spring, the garden bed has been prepared since autumn. Shooting hot garlic is planted for the winter, the reason is that it belongs to winter varieties.

How to grow spring garlic

The difference from winter garlic is that spring garlic grows smaller, but is stored longer. Plant it as soon as the snow melts in the spring. Around the middle of April. According to the technology of growing garlic, the bed is prepared in advance. Digging up the site, they introduce organic matter, complex mineral fertilizers and wood ash.

The implementation of agricultural techniques leads to a high yield.

In general, the cultivation of winter and spring varieties of crops does not differ from each other. Only the time of planting and harvesting are different, the care is the same.

Choosing a place for spring garlic

Growing garlic in the country is practiced by many summer residents. Particular attention is paid to the selection of a place. The site is chosen on the sunny side, preferably with good water flow. Garlic does not like stagnant moisture. The place must be protected from wind and drafts. This will help to avoid further hassle on the construction of protection.

Summer residents practice on the site landscape design with decor, using various varieties garlic. At the same time, they receive not only beautiful decoration but also a useful product.

It is undesirable to plant a crop after:

• tomatoes;
• potatoes;
• Luke;
• carrots.

It is desirable that in the past year at this place grew:

• cabbage;
• cucumbers;
• squash;
• spices;
• cereals.

Compliance with crop rotation will avoid trouble. Plants are less susceptible to disease.

Scheme of planting spring garlic

The crop yield depends on the planting of the cloves. Correct scheme allows you to grow large heads fragrant seasoning. Condensed growing will cause the bulbs to shred. Large cloves are planted at a distance of 12 cm from each other, smaller ones by 8 cm. The distance between the grooves is 25-30 cm.

Embedding depth 3-4 cm, garlic is not recommended to be pressed. Such actions harm the planting material. This is reflected in the future harvest. The grooves are covered with earth and lightly tamped. Mulch at will, use sawdust or other material.

How to grow winter garlic

Plant the crop in autumn. The site is selected according to the same criteria as for the spring. Prerequisite - abundance sunlight, wind protection and a slight slope. The soil for garlic is selected fertile. With a lack of nutrients, humus, ash and mineral fertilizers are introduced before planting. Sandy soil is better.

In order for the garlic to grow, it is recommended to organize a shelter. Especially in regions with severe winters. To do this, use peat, foliage or plant residues. In the spring, this shelter helps retain moisture longer and prevents weeds from appearing.

Preparing beds for winter garlic

It is not difficult to determine what kind of soil garlic loves. Requires fertile sandy loamy soil. Loams and other soil composition are diluted with river sand.

The site is dug up and top dressing is applied, beds are formed, grooves are made. The completion of cultivation is marked by planting cloves in the ground.

Winter Garlic Care

The culture is demanding for watering and top dressing. Timely fertilization and regular water supply are required. Summer residents who are engaged in growing plants look after this crop especially carefully. Untimely implementation of agricultural techniques leads to a decrease in the volume of the crop. It is necessary to follow the rules of cultivation and care.

Garlic care begins in the spring. First of all, remove the large mulch that served as a shelter. Those summer residents who do not have the opportunity to water the crop often recommend leaving fine mulch in the garden. It will help to keep the precious on initial stage moisture.

Plants need to be fed immediately after germination, during the formation of bulbs. Use organic and complex mineral fertilizers. Care must be taken to ensure that weeds do not appear. They pull all the nutrients from the soil, as a result of which cultivated plant is starving.

In the dry period, watered once every 4-5 days, if the spring is rainy, watering is stopped. Thus, the beds are also watered in the summer, 2-3 weeks before the expected harvest date, watering is stopped. When the arrows reach 15 cm in length, they must be broken off, they weaken the plant. The heads will be small, the cloves will be small.

Proper plant care will definitely return to the summer resident in the form of a rich harvest.

Diseases of culture

Susceptibility to diseases directly depends on the variety and its characteristics. It is desirable to completely eliminate shading; many viruses and bacteria like the shade. Great importance has prevention. Correct fit, the implementation of agricultural techniques help to avoid the development of diseases.

Garlic suffers from diseases no less than other crops. Need to follow up appearance leaves and stems of plants. If any signs of deformation appear, the plant must be removed, and the remaining ones should be processed immediately. Planting teeth, carried out correctly, can affect the resistance to diseases. Do not ignore crop rotation.

Plants that have been grown in the same place for several years get sick much more often and more severely.

When the leaves turn yellow, this is a sure sign of downy mildew. The disease must be treated, otherwise the infection will pass to healthy plants. The disease can destroy most of the crop in a short time. For prevention, teeth are kept in the sun for several days before planting. This helps to disinfect the planting material.

Used for processing special means purchased at the store. Some summer residents prefer to use folk remedies, the minus of which is only in a short-term effect, and the plus is safe for the human body.

Planting material preparation

The teeth must be reviewed for damage and visible defects. Separate the heads just before planting. Planting material should be large. The larger the clove, the larger the crop will be. Before boarding, carry out special events, which are aimed at strengthening the immunity of plants. After the emergence of seedlings, top dressing is repeated. Then the culture will be stronger and more stable.

Processing methods:

1. Before planting, soak the garlic in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for an hour. This will help to disinfect the planting material.
2. Make a 1% solution of copper sulfate, the teeth are in it for a long time. Approximately 9-11 hours. Summer residents recommend soaking overnight, planting in the beds in the morning.
3. 3 art. tablespoons of salt are diluted in 5 liters of water, soaked for 3 minutes, then for 1 minute. in a solution of copper sulphate. They plant immediately.
4. Solution wood ash at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 1 liter of water. The solution must be mixed well, to achieve the best result, a fine fraction of ash is taken. Planting material is soaked for 1 hour.
5. The drug "Maxim" of natural origin. It acts as an antibiotic, so treatment with it is harmless to humans. The solution is prepared according to the instructions, the teeth are lowered for 30 minutes. After planted in the beds.
6. Prepare 3 solutions. 24 hours soaked in nitroammofoska for 10 liters of water 1 tbsp. spoon for 30 min. soaked in salt, per liter of water Art. spoon for 1 min. in copper sulfate, proportions 10 liters of water / 1 tbsp. the spoon.

There are many processing methods, each summer resident uses his own method, proven over the years. It doesn't matter if it's a winter or spring variety, everything is processed. Vegetable growers agree on one thing, pre-sowing preparation should not be neglected. It is important for planting material, future plants and crops.

Growing garlic seeds

Every vegetable grower can independently grow garlic at home. To do this, you need to prepare a bed, collect planting material. Nothing special needs to be done. It is necessary to leave a few arrows, after ripening, future planting material will be collected from them. Bulb-grown garlic renews the variety, the heads will be larger, and disease resistance is higher.

The arrow should burst protective film, the seeds will come out. They are carefully cut and put away for storage until demand. If the variety does not shoot, it is impossible to collect seeds from it.

Planting material is kept warm, but 1.5 months before planting it is transferred to a cool place, thus tempering the bulbs. Summer residents use a greenhouse to grow seeds. But there is an opportunity to grow them this way, without creating special conditions. To grow required amount cloves, garlic are fed and watered as usual. The culture itself will grow planting material, the summer resident only needs to collect it correctly.

Growing garlic from bulbs

It is not necessary to plant garlic in a greenhouse, a garden bed in the open field will do. Before digging, humus and mineral fertilizers are applied. They form a bed and make grooves for planting air bulbs of bulbs.

Planted for the winter, in the spring or directly on the place where it will grow for 2 years. The first two methods are known to all summer residents. And the direct way seems complicated. In fact, everything is simple, the bulbs are planted immediately on permanent place, it grows for a long time. Then the summer resident digs out the heads ready for use.

Seeding depth is 5 cm, spring varieties are planted in early spring. Winter crops are planted in the fall, while the bed is mulched and protected from the cold. The distance between the ribbons is 35-45 cm.

Tips for a beginner vegetable grower experienced summer residents, following which he will grow a crop no worse than others:

• In arrowing varieties of culture, the arrows necessarily break off, but not all. The arrow is an excellent indicator of ripeness. At the initial stage, it is twisted, in July it straightens. When it stretches, the garlic is ready.
• If the summer resident grows an arrow for seeds, you should leave it on the largest teeth. Bulbs will be larger.
• Caring for garlic in June consists in timely pilaf and top dressing, which are often combined with each other. After that, the earth is loosened, mute hilling the plants.
• Bulb planting is practiced in different time. In the spring, digging up a bed will be problematic. Because it is prepared in the fall. Fall-planted cloves sometimes come to the surface or freeze. They must be pressed into the ground in the spring.
• You don’t need to take care of garlic in August, it remains to dig it out correctly. Depending on the variety, the culture ripens in different ways. Dig using a pitchfork, then leave in the sun for 2-5 hours. After they are cleaned in a well-ventilated room, the leaves and stems are not cut. They are tied or woven into pigtails, hung under the roof for final drying and ripening. Then they are removed to the winter storage room.
• To scare away insects, marigolds are planted along the beds. They repel nematodes and onion fly.

Planting garlic in the field is easy. Following the advice of experienced vegetable growers, they get a rich harvest. To update the variety, garlic is planted from bulbs; there is no need to buy planting material.

This is herbaceous plant For more than 5,000 years, it has been an essential ingredient in most of the world's cuisines. Incredible in its healing qualities, the spice is part of many potions. The cultivation of this member of the onion family implies a complex process, most milestone which is considered the harvest. It's about about a crop called garlic. Planting and care in the open field will succumb even to beginners in gardening.

Herbaceous plant native to Central Asia. Belongs to the Amaryllis family. It is considered one of the most common vegetable crops. It is used for both culinary and medicinal purposes. Every year, farmers harvest about 17,000,000 tons of garlic.

Pythagoras, who lived 500 BC, called him the "King of Spice". 100 g of the product contains 149 kcal. The nutritional value(G):

• fats - 0.5;
• carbohydrates - 29.9;
• proteins - 6.5;
• water - 60;
• dietary fiber - 1.5.

In large volumes contains Vitamin C, sulfur, potassium, iron salts and iodine.

By cultivating garlic, you can both improve the health of the family and protect its “neighbors” from pest attacks. It is known that caterpillars and slugs are afraid of him. Rose bushes growing nearby will always be healthy, due to the fact that the plant prevents the development of black spot.

More than 70 varieties are known, which are classified into winter and spring.

Table 1. Main differences between winter and spring garlic

Spring	Winter
1. Planted in spring. 2. There are 10 to 12 small cloves in the bulb 3. Chaotic arrangement of cloves in the onion 4. The presence of a stem in the center of the head. 5. Of all the varieties, only the Gulliver and Parus varieties are allowed to shoot. 6. Poor survival. 7. Excellent keeping quality. 8. Longer shelf life. 9. Likes loamy soils.	1. Planted in autumn. 2. In the bulb - from 4 to 6 large teeth. 3. Uniform arrangement of cloves in the onion. 4. No stem. 5. Shoots arrows on which bulbs are formed. 6. More attractive presentation. 7. High concentration of iron. 8. The teeth are larger in size. 9. Easier to endure wintering. 10. early term cleaning. 11. Prefers sandy soils.

Winter garlic has great advantages over spring garlic. Therefore, despite the ease of storage of the latter, farmers oriented towards large volumes prefer to grow winter crops. Plant spring planting used mainly in small farms.

On the territory of the Russian Federation, 6 spring and 22 winter varieties are cultivated.

Garlic cultivation technology

The main difference in the methods of cultivation of spring and winter varieties is in the time of sowing and in the preferred soil structure. The rest of the algorithm is almost identical.

Step 1. Choosing a variety

To obtain maximum yield, plant varieties that are suitable for a certain climatic zone. Before purchasing planting material, you must familiarize yourself with its characteristics and take into account the following parameters:

1. Special purpose. For culinary purposes, it is better to use winter varieties. Spring crops are suitable for industrial processing.
2. Storage method. Spring trees are stored in bundles placed in a cool place until spring. Winter crops do not have a long shelf life.
3. The composition of the earth. Some hybrid forms do not require pre-training soil. However, for most varieties, the quality of the soil plays a decisive role.

Table 2. The most popular varieties

Spring	Winter crops
"Elenovsky": 1. Early ripe. 2. Vegetation period - 110 days. 3. The height of the above-ground part is 70 cm. 4. Productivity - up to 1 kg / 1 m². 5. The number of teeth in the bulb - from 7 to 9. 6. The weight of the onion is from 25 to 35 g, sometimes up to 50 g. 7. Storage period - up to 2 years without loss of commercial qualities. 8. Resistance to diseases. 9. Frost resistance. 10. Good transportability.	"Dubkovsky": 1. Mid-season. 2. growing season- from 98 to 114 days. 3. The number of teeth in the head - from 10 to 12. 4. Bulb weight - from 28 to 32 g. 5. Productivity - from 0.4 to 0.5 kg/1m². 6. Susceptible to white rot. 7. Often affected by nematodes. 8. Has a very spicy taste.
"Sail": 1. Mid-season. 2. Plants form an arrow. 3. Vegetation period - from 95 to 109 days. 4. The number of cloves in the bulb - from 7 to 10. 5. Bulb weight - up to 50 g. 6. High productivity - 9.6 kg/1m². 7. Excellent immunity to most pests. 8. Long shelf life.	"Alkor": 1. Mid-season. 2. Vegetation period - from 85 days to 95 days. 3. Productivity - 3.4 kg/1m². 4. The number of cloves in the bulb - from 4 to 6. 5. Bulb weight - from 20 to 35 g. 6. Taste - semi-sharp. 7. Susceptible to yellow dwarfism.
"Gulliver": 1. Late ripe. 2. Vegetation period - from 88 to 98 days. 3. The number of cloves in the onion is from 4 to 5. 4. Bulb weight - 110 g, sometimes 250 g. 5. Resistant to all diseases. 6. Taste - extremely sharp. 7. Productivity - 1 kg/1m². 8. Long term storage.	"Lyubasha": 1. Mid-season. 2. Vegetation period - from 87 to 98 days. 3. The number of teeth in the head - from 5 to 6. 4. Bulb weight - up to 120 g. 5. Productivity - from 2.8 to 3.4 kg/1m². 6. Frost-resistant. 7. Not susceptible to Fusarium disease.

Step 2: Seed Preparation

Most farmers prefer the vegetative method to seed.

Spring is propagated by cloves located in the bulbs. Winter - teeth and bulbs, which are formed in the first year of fruit ripening.

Since yield indicators are determined by the quality of the material, only healthy specimens should be selected.

The teeth should be large, with a whole shell and a dense husk.

Table 3. Basic pre-planting manipulations

Name	Description
Disinfection	Ash lye is used. Recipe - dilute 400 g of ash in 2 liters of water, boil, cool, add 2 cloves and insist.
Calibration	Bulbs are selected by size. Instances with cracks or irregular shape are culled.
Germination	This procedure accelerates the growth of the culture. The teeth are wrapped with a damp cloth and placed in a bowl for 3 days. plastic bag. This action is optional.
Drying	Large arrows with bulbs are selected and dried. From undried, there will be no quality seed.
Splitting up	On the day of planting, the teeth are removed from the bulbs. Throw away small or rotten ones.

The prepared material is planted quickly. Bare cloves rapidly lose moisture, which reduces the likelihood of germination.

Step 3. Choosing a location

Garlic prefers to grow on an elevated sunny area without excessive accumulation of moisture. Doesn't grow well in the shade.

Lowlands are not suitable for planting. High humidity detrimental to winter varieties.

Farmers prefer to grow the plant in a separate bed. If there is not enough space on the site, it is planted next to the following crops:

• strawberry;
• potato;
• gooseberry;
• strawberry;
• currant;
• raspberry;
• cucumbers;
• tomatoes.

Roses and tulips are well suited to the company of garlic. It is better to plan planting in a place where zucchini or cucumbers grew.

Garlic slows down the development of beans and peas. Close proximity in the garden is not desirable. Growing it in the soil in which the onion grew is permissible only after 4 years.

Step 4. Calculate landing dates

One of the defining steps for performance indicators.

1. Planting time is determined by varietal characteristics.
2. Planted taking into account weather conditions from the second half of September to the first week of October.
3. Finish planting before the onset of cold weather. Otherwise, the teeth will not be able to form a strong root system.
4. The main rule is that by the beginning of winter, the clove should be rooted, grow up to 2 cm and release several leaves.
5. The optimum temperature of the top layer of soil is from 10 to 12°C.

Since teeth that have not grown deep enough freeze at -10 ° C, planting should be completed 3 weeks before the onset of stable frosts.

1. When the snow melts, start planting. Depending on the climatic features of the region, this event takes place in April or May. For middle lane RF, for example, this period falls on the 3rd decade of April.
2. The optimum air temperature is from 5 to 7°С, soil - up to 4°С.
3. The more powerful the rhizome will form before the onset of sustained heat, the larger the size of the bulb will be.
4. The soil must be moist.

In order for a mature onion to grow throughout the summer, planting should not be delayed. The culture perfectly tolerates light spring frosts.

Step 5. Ground preparation

Garlic prefers to grow on fertile soils. It can be both sandy and loamy. The defining criterion is the peculiarity of the variety. If necessary, the structural composition is adjusted with sand, loam or peat. Acidity should be neutral or slightly acidic.

If the pH is less than 6.5 units, the soil must be limed.

In addition, fertilizers should be applied to the ground:

1. In the spring - mineral dressings mixed with humus. For 1 m², you need 10 g of potassium, 1 bucket of humus and 8 g of phosphorus. Strengthen the fertility of the soil by adding compost at the rate of 10 kg per 1 m².
2. In autumn - a mineral mixture of equal parts of "Nitrophoska", "Superphosphate" and ash at the rate of 30 g per 1 m².
3. For the purpose of disinfection, 3 days before sowing, the soil is treated with a solution of copper sulfate. Cooking according to instructions.
4. 1 day before planting, the earth is watered with a weak solution. edible salt at the rate of 10 g of the product per 250 ml of water. This will protect crops from pests.

Fertilizing with fresh manure is prohibited.

Step 6. Determining the Landing Pattern

It is preferable to grow a crop in narrow beds.

Table 4. Landing pattern options

To choose the preferred planting method, you should familiarize yourself with the observations of experienced farmers:

1. Soil structure. This criterion affects the ability of the soil to protect the seed from frost and retain moisture. Clay soil has low hygroscopicity, therefore optimum depth planting - from 6 to 7 cm. Light sandy loam does not hold moisture well, so the recess should be from 9 to 10 cm. Acceptable indicators for well-aerated chernozem are from 6 to 7 cm.
2. Seed caliber. For winter varieties, small teeth are deepened by 6 cm, large ones by 10 cm. Planting depth of spring varieties is 2 cm.

Step 7 Planting Garlic

1. Do not plant in dry weather.
2. The bottom of the grooves is sprinkled with coarse sand. This will protect the seed from rot.
3. The teeth are arranged in a north-south direction. This manipulation will allow the leaves to receive the maximum amount of sunlight, which will increase productivity and simplify care.
4. If rain is not predicted after planting, the bed is irrigated.

Want to plant garlic before winter, but don't know how? Ours will help you with this. In it you will find detailed step by step instructions and tips from agronomists.

garlic care

Depending on the type chosen, care activities differ.

Cultivation of spring varieties

Table 5. Basic rules for caring for spring garlic

Procedure	Description
Watering	In the first phase of growth, watering is plentiful, as the soil dries. The second is moderate. With prolonged rains, additional soil moisture is not necessary. Excess moisture is fraught with decay of the bulbs.
top dressing	Carry out 2 recharges. In spring - rotted manure, diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. In the middle of summer - 200 g of ash diluted in 1 bucket of water.
Loosening and weeding	To reduce the growth of weeds, the soil around the plants is mulched. This event allows you to move away from loosening the soil.

Cultivation of winter varieties

Table 6. Basic rules for caring for winter garlic

Procedure	Description
Winter mulching	Layer thickness - from 1.5 to 2 cm.
Removing arrows	Manipulation is carried out when the vegetation reaches a length of 10 cm. If there is a need to obtain bulbs, the arrows are not cut off.
spring loosening	Gives the chance to avoid formation of a crust. Loosen immediately after moistening the soil at a depth of 3 cm.
spring watering	Carried out in May and June. Stop it 1 month before harvest. Otherwise, the garlic will not store well. In moderate weather, they spend 1 bucket of water per 1 m² once every 7 days. In hot - 1 bucket of water per 1 m² 2 times within 7 days. In rainy weather, watering is not necessary.
top dressing	The first is carried out in the spring, after the appearance of several leaves. Fertilizer recipe -1 tbsp. dilute urea in 1 bucket of water. Consumption - 1/3 capacity per 1 m². The second recharge is carried out after 3 days. Recipe - 2 tbsp. "Nitroammophoski" for 1 bucket of water. Consumption - ½ capacity per 1 m². The final one is at the beginning of June. Recipe - 2 tbsp. superphosphate for 1 bucket. Consumption - 1 container per 3 m².

harvesting garlic

The collection period is determined by the following criteria:

• for non-shooting varieties - lodging of false stems;
• for shooters - drying out outer shells and wilting of the upper foliage.

Spring garlic is harvested in the second half of August, winter - at the end of July.

Too early harvesting is fraught with the formation of small bulbs. Belated - overripe, which negatively affects presentation products.

Cleaning technology:

1. Use a fork or shovel. With the first tool, the garlic is less damaged.
2. The earth is removed from the bulbs. The leaves are left.
3. Dry in the garden in clear weather for 5 days. In rainy weather - under a canopy.
4. The roots are cut, leaving 3 mm of rhizome and part of the stem is removed.
5. Sort by size.

The given cleaning technology will increase the shelf life.

Storage of garlic

1. Spring. Storage at temperatures from 16 to 20°C.
2. Winter. Temperature regime- from 2 to 4°С.
3. Optimum humidity - from 50 to 80%.

Summing up

Observing the proposed instructions for growing, harvesting and storing garlic, you can annually collect big harvest quality products.

Video - When and how to plant garlic

Video - Harvesting garlic on time