Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what to plant then, how to properly plan crops. Proper crop rotation in the garden

Taking care of the garden beds all summer, each of us certainly wants to feel the result of our efforts, having gathered a rich harvest in the fall. But as the old proverb says: "The smart one cultivates the harvest, and the wise one cultivates the land." Therefore, in order to achieve the desired result and get a crop with fragrant and juicy fruits, when cultivating beds, one should not forget about crop rotation. vegetable crops. This effective natural gardening system not only helps to maintain soil fertility, but also significantly reduces the number of diseases and pests affecting vegetable crops.

For intensive development and growth, plants need the predominance of certain macronutrients, since vegetable crops have different ability to assimilate these elements. For example: root crops (potatoes, carrots, beets) require phosphorus in a sufficiently large amount, and leaf crops(cabbage, lettuce) - nitrogen. And if root crops, thanks to a well-developed root system, are able to use the lower soil layers rich in potassium and phosphorus for nutrition, then the roots of leafy greens are able to get the microelements necessary for development only upper layers ground...

The main task that crop rotation in the garden solves is uniform distribution in the soil nutrients

Planting one type of vegetable crops in a designated area from year to year leads to significant depletion of the soil and a noticeable deficiency of one or another element.

Only a well-organized crop rotation for personal plot makes it possible to use in a balanced way all the advantages of fertile soil

When growing vegetables belonging to the same family, pathogens and pests that affect this particular family begin to accumulate in the soil. In the case of planting the same crop that grows this summer in a designated garden bed, there is always a chance of getting fruits affected by diseases. If the planting sites of crops are alternated annually, then not finding suitable food, pathogens simply die. Most best option when representatives of the same family return to the old landing site no earlier than after 3-4 seasons.

In addition, grouping plants in the garden, taking into account their needs, greatly facilitates the care of plantings. Thanks to a well-thought-out crop rotation in the country, you can even successfully fight weeds. After all experienced gardeners It has long been noted that crops that build up a small vegetative mass (parsley, carrots) are not able to resist the growth of weeds in the same way as plants with a fast-growing leaf surface (pumpkin, zucchini, potatoes).

Planting scheme, where the horizontal rows indicate the year of planting (first, second ...), and the vertical columns indicate the areas where crops are placed

Thanks to the alternation of the beds, you can create the most favorable conditions for the growth and development of vegetable beds

Variety of variations of crop rotation systems

Over many years of practice, many gardeners, taking into account the development of the root system of plants, as well as their absorption of nutrients from the soil, have learned how to optimally alternate vegetable crops in the garden. At the heart of the simplest crop rotation scheme is the principle that not a single annual crop should not grow in the same place two seasons in a row. More sophisticated options for crop rotation schemes include the development of optimal plant rotation within the same area for several years ahead.

When drawing up schemes, specialists mainly focus on two parameters: the alternation of families and the change in the group of crops (root crop, fruit, leaf group)

Successfully combined with large plants such as cabbage, zucchini and tomato, vegetable crops small size: onion, carrot, radish. As an intermediate planting between the main harvests, early ripening crops can be used: Beijing cabbage, radish, lettuce, spinach.

If, when drawing up a crop rotation scheme, we take the compatibility of plants as a basis, then the best options can be considered:

• precursors of cabbage - tomatoes, potatoes, peas, lettuce and onions;
• carrots, parsnips, parsley and celery - after potatoes, beets or cabbage;
• early potatoes and tomatoes - after onions, cucumbers, legumes and cabbage;
• patisson, pumpkin and zucchini - after root crops, onions and cabbage;
• radish, turnip and radish - after potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers;
• cucumber - after cabbage, legumes, tomatoes and potatoes;
• lettuce, spinach and dill - after cucumber, tomato, potato and cabbage;
• onions - after potatoes, cabbage, cucumber.

In the fight against pests of vegetable crops (leaf beetles, mites, scoops), spicy herbs act. Get along well with vegetables:

• Broccoli with iceberg lettuce and parsley;
• Tomatoes with savory, spinach and watercress;
• Cucumbers with dill;
• Radishes and carrots with parsley and chives;
• Strawberries with parsley.

Properly selected vegetables can have a beneficial effect on each other. And the successful combination of planting vegetables with herbs is beneficial and creates a harmony of beauty.

How to draw up your crop rotation scheme?

Deciding to draw up a crop rotation scheme for suburban area, you should first of all make a plan for the garden, where you indicate the location of vegetable and fruit crops.

When drawing up a plan, one should take into account not only the soil composition of the site, but also the degree of illumination of the garden beds in different time days

A feature of crops is that they have different nutrient requirements. Depending on the degree of consumption of soil microelements and nutrients, vegetable crops can be divided into 3 groups:

1. Plants with a low need. Among the unpretentious soil composition of crops include: onions, lettuce, herbs, radishes, peas, bush beans.
2. Plants with an average expression in nutrients. These include: tomatoes and cucumbers, beets and radishes, melon, eggplant, as well as leeks, spinach, kohlrabi and curly beans.
3. Plants with a high demand. These include: zucchini, celery, potatoes, pumpkin, asparagus, rhubarb, cabbage, spinach.

When drawing up a crop rotation scheme, the drawn plan should be divided into 3 or 4 parts, following which it will be possible to ensure that each of the crops returns to its original planting site only in the third or fourth year.

The first most fertile part of the garden is allocated for planting "gluttonous" crops (cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini). The second part of the site is used for planting eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, which are less demanding on soil fertility, or radishes, onions or greens. The third part is allocated for crops that can give good harvest on relatively poor ground. Planted here: turnips, carrots, beets, parsley. Potatoes are planted in the last fourth part of the garden, locally applying organic fertilizer (rotted manure or compost with ash) to each well.

After harvesting, it is advisable to plant the vacated beds with green manure plants, which, better than any fertilizers, will increase the fertility of the soil composition.

For the next season, the plants that grew in the first area, evenly shifting in a circle, "move" to the fourth, from the second to the first, from the third to the second, and so on.

When drawing up a crop rotation scheme, one should also take into account the structural features of the root system of plants and the depth of their penetration into the soil. Thanks to this, nutrients will be evenly used from different soil layers. For example: cucumbers, onions and cabbages can eat from the arable layer of soil, the roots of tomatoes stick to a depth of a little less than a meter, and corn - up to two meters.

Knowing the characteristics of each culture and taking into account good combination between them, you can not only achieve a rich harvest, but also protect plants from many diseases.

Dear homeowners, do you know what crop rotation is in the garden? Table or striping scheme cultivated plants must be at the disposal of every self-respecting gardener. After all, every spring the question certainly arises of how to place new plantings on the site.

It has been scientifically proven that following the principles of crop rotation increases the yield by 2 or even 2.5 times. I suggest that you look into this issue together and make a memo for yourself, which will definitely come in handy during work on the plot.

It is not worth reinventing the wheel and setting up long-term experiments, it is best to use the findings and developments of agronomists, which have long been used on an agricultural scale. This also applies to cucumbers and peppers. This also applies to the alternation of plantings in the garden.

Why crop rotation is important in the garden

The table, which is easy to compile, clearly shows the order of crops, but it does not explain the reasons. And they are very serious. The whole point is that different plants in the process of growth and development, they consume different amounts of mineral compounds.

For example, potatoes and cabbage for growing season"pull" out of the soil very a large number of nutrients. And legumes, on the contrary, differ in that they leave behind a supply of nitrogen in the substrate.

Such enrichment of the soil with nitro compounds occurs due to nitrogen-fixing (or, as they are more commonly called, nodule) bacteria living in special formations on the roots of legumes. After harvesting, the roots of these plants must be left in the soil - then all the available nitrogen accumulated during the growing season will remain for other plants.

In addition, there is a second significant reason. Permanent cultivation of the same crop in a permanent place leads to an increase in pests and infectious diseases characteristic of this culture. To avoid unnecessary problems, increase productivity and facilitate your work, it is advisable to use the principles of crop rotation.

Forerunners of vegetable crops

It has long been noticed that common agricultural plants feel great and bear fruit abundantly after certain crops were grown in their place last year. For example:

• potatoes give a good harvest after pumpkin;
• cabbage - after onions;
• carrots - after cabbage;
• beets - after potatoes;
• tomatoes - after zucchini;
• cucumbers - after cabbage;
• onions - after cucumbers.

Based on these plant preferences, you can independently create a chain of sequential crop cultivation for several years. For example:

First option

in the first year, cabbage is grown in the garden,

in the second - carrots,

in the third - tomatoes.

Second option

cabbage - potatoes - beets - zucchini.

Third option

cabbage - onion - pepper - cabbage.

Fourth option

cabbage - cucumber - onion - potatoes.

If it seems problematic for you to track the patterns on your own and draw up a crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops, then you can already use ready-made templates which have been repeatedly tested in practice.

Forerunners of vegetable crops

table

± valid predecessors; ++ excellent predecessors;

— bad predecessors;

Green manure plants, which are also called "green fertilizers", require a separate comment. After them, you can grow almost all vegetable plants. Green manures enrich the soil with valuable nutrients, improve its aeration and mechanical composition. In addition, many plants from this group secrete special substances that delay the germination of seeds, and this is important in relation to the spread and growth of weeds.

All these qualities indicate that green manure plants are ideal as predecessors of vegetable crops. The table does not contain them, because. they are favorable for all cultures.

Legumes (peas, beans, beans, lentils, soybeans, chickpeas and others), cereals (barley, millet, rye, wheat, oats and others), cruciferous (mustard, radish, rapeseed and others), as well as plants from other families (amaranth, buckwheat, mallow and others). Some of these plants (for example, mustard) are useful not only as a fertilizer, but also as a remedy for other pests.

Terms of crop return during crop rotation

The table does not reflect the time after which one or another crop can be grown again in this particular bed. But still you need to know after how many seasons you can return vegetable plant to its original place. These terms are individual for each culture.

For example, potatoes can be re-grown in an old bed after 1 or 2 years, repeat after 3, and preferably after 4 years. But in the assortment of garden crops there are those that do not show particular demands in crop rotation. They can be grown on the same bed repeatedly. These plants include: lettuce, radish, dill, onion (when grown on a feather).

If the size of the plot is small, and each square meter is scarce, then inter-row planting can be successfully used. But in this case, it is necessary to take into account the phenomenon of allelopathy, the timing of the ripening of the crop and the presence of common diseases.

So, planting cucumbers can be combined with peas, radish, cabbage or pepper. And in the aisles of tomatoes it is profitable to sow cauliflower, parsley, basil, garlic, celery or lettuce. For zucchini, it is better to take broccoli, corn, beans or spinach as neighbors. And fill the aisles of potatoes with beans.

Crop rotation in the country and a competent spatio-temporal combination of garden crops greatly facilitate work and increase yields. Do not neglect these important agricultural practices.

Let the predecessors of vegetable crops, a table, diagrams and all the necessary helpful tips crop rotation in the garden.

Rich harvests to you!

In many regions of Russia, there is still snow in the dachas, frosts continue. But spring is just around the corner, and although summer residents have no practical work yet, it's time to take up theory - so let's talk about the neighborhood of vegetables and other plants on the site.

So I myself noticed that from phytophthora and scoops, tomatoes planted for many years in a row in one place in the garden, in the country suffer MUCH (!) More often, and the disease is much more difficult, and treatment and spraying are not so effective. Potato growers also know that potatoes in one place are more affected by moths, tubers become smaller, any planting for many years in one place degenerates 2-3 times more intensively and no longer gives more of the yields that the gardener is counting on.

When planting vegetables on small area it is necessary to consider how one plant affects another. This is the only way to ensure a good harvest.

Each plant in the dacha needs a different amount of space, light, nutrients and moisture. To achieve harmonious coexistence of plants in a small area, consider several factors.

Neighborhood of vegetables

Do not plant nearby plants, the underground part of which is in the same layer. To protect themselves from certain pests or pathogens, the roots of vegetables and herbs are isolated into the soil. complex connections. They can be beneficial to some plants and toxic to others. For example, mustard root secretions are good for peas, garlic, and carrots, and bad for cabbages.

For the same reason, it is not recommended to grow the same plant in one place in the garden for more than a year. For example, beets only when mixed landings can grow in one place for up to three years, since plants of other species absorb and process its root secretions, preventing them from accumulating in the soil. Pumpkin, some cabbage, parsley, celery, and carrots are not so picky in this regard. Corn, beans and leeks grow well without transplanting.

Pests

An equally important reason why it is necessary to rotate vegetables at one planting site is that diseases and sometimes pests of this vegetable accumulate in this place over several years.

Cucumbers, cabbage, celery, tomatoes, beans, lettuce are especially affected by this.

Changing plantings helps to fight without the use of chemicals with the most common pests, such as cabbage, carrot and onion flies. After plants that infect certain diseases and pests, cultures resistant to them are stirred. It is especially important to observe this rule for the cabbage and nightshade families.

Feeding with minerals and fertilizer

To get a good harvest, it is worth knowing how much nutrients certain vegetables need. It depends on how much fertilizing will be applied after harvesting the crops.

All types of cabbage and celery are the most demanding for nutrition.

Pumpkin, nightshade, as well as all types of onions, lettuce, spinach and corn occupy an intermediate place.

Carrots, parsnips, root parsley, radishes, radishes, beets require minimal conditions.

Vegetables from the same family need similar nutrients. If they are planted one after another in one place, this leads to one-sided depletion of the soil. In the first year, it is recommended to plant demanding crops, in the second - legumes, in the third - less demanding plants. Then the alternation is repeated.

In addition, in a small area, the depth of the roots of plants, their height and ripening time are taken into account. The latter is especially important if we are talking about mixed landings.

Useful plants

For a better condition of plantings for vegetables, it is recommended to sow ornamental plants, releasing phytoncidal or insecticidal substances: calendula, nasturtium, matthiol. Honey plants can be excellent neighbors of vegetables: basil, marjoram, savory, catnip, lemon balm. planted and flowering plants celery family - cumin, anise, dill, as well as sunflower, chamomile, daisies, lavender, oregano.

There are plants that improve soil fertility. For example, some legumes, clover, alfalfa enrich the earth thanks to nodule bacteria on the roots that absorb nitrogen from the air, so after alfalfa, potatoes grow just fine and without nitroammophos.

And due to the deep root system, they enable the upper layer of the soil to receive potassium, phosphorus and calcium. Caraway seeds, buckwheat, flax, rapeseed also improve soil properties.

The general condition of the plants depends on the assortment of the garden - the more diverse it is, the better the plantings grow and give a greater harvest. Nearby or one after another, crops belonging to different species and different families should be planted. The most popular vegetables and root crops belong to two families - cabbage and celery.

What are the families of vegetables

• Celery: parsley, celery, carrots, parsnips, cumin, dill and fennel.
• Cabbage: colored, white and red, Brussels, Savoy, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, as well as swede, radish, radish, turnip, mustard, horseradish, watercress, turnip.
• Aster family: chicory and all types of lettuce.
• Bluegrass: corn.
• Gauze: beets, spinach.
• Onions: all types of onions and garlic.
• Nightshade: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants.
• Legumes: peas, beans and beans, also soy.
• Buckwheat: rhubarb, sorrel.
• Pumpkin: cucumbers, pumpkin, melon, squash and zucchini, zucchini.

Optimum rotation for good yields

After tomatoes and potatoes, cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, beans, and beets grow well. In place of cucumbers, zucchini, radishes, cabbage, beets, and beans are grown. Carrots, dill, parsley, celery should be replaced by onions, potatoes, tomatoes. After beans, peas, garlic and onions, all crops can be planted.

The most optimal placement of vegetables in three plots by year looks like this: plot A - celery, spinach, potatoes, leeks, corn, plot B - legumes, fennel, onions, plot C - cabbage, perennials.

Figure 1: Alternation of plants by year (given for four years - from top to bottom: first year at the top, etc.)

Some plants oppress each other either unilaterally or mutually, because of this, their productivity and resistance to diseases and pests are reduced. For example, not a single vegetable crop tolerates the neighborhood of hyssop, wormwood - especially peas and beans, and fennel - especially tomatoes, spinach, bush beans. Of the herbs, you should also not plant sage near onions, marigolds - near beans, tansy - near leafy cabbage, and quinoa - near potatoes.

Table 1 - Wrong neighborhood

Vegetable	Favorable Neighborhood	Unfavorable Neighborhood
Cabbage	Celery, lettuce, dill	Tomato, bean, onion
Potatoes	cabbage, onion	Cucumber, pumpkin, celery
A tomato	Pepper, celery, onion, parsley	Eggplant, kohlrabi, potatoes
cucumbers	Radish, lettuce, peas, cabbage	Spicy herbs and potatoes
Carrot	Onions, tomatoes, peas and lettuce	Beets and dill
Beet	Beans, lettuce, onion	Dill, mustard, carrot

This method is simple and lies in the fact that crops are combined in one garden not by year, but in one year. An excellent result is shown by planting tomatoes and peppers with early varieties onion, parsley and celery (A). Zucchini and squash willingly make room for radishes (B), and cucumbers for dill and lettuce (C).

Since the ripening periods of garden crops are different, they should be taken into account. For example, radishes have time to grow before zucchini and squash begin to displace it. Cabbage and celery planted together become stronger, plus celery repels cabbage bugs. It is impossible to grow crops of the same species next to each other, but with different ripening periods, for example, early and late cabbage. If plants on the same bed require a different amount of top dressing, then at the borders, across the ridges, internal bumpers should be made.

Note: Green Conveyor
At the end of July, sow radishes, carrots for bunch products, spinach and summer varieties lettuce.

Peas enrich the soil with nitrogen, so after it all plants develop perfectly.

Beijing cabbage can generally be sown very late - it is early ripening, not afraid bad weather and light frosts.

Councils of gardeners, summer residents, gardeners

My system of crop rotation and the neighborhood of plants in the garden

IN old Russia agricultural technology was high level, there were teaching schools, literature. Combining the old and the new, I developed my agricultural technology, thanks to which I have high, stable yields every year.

Basics of my science:

• planning;
• crop rotation;
• planting dates and neighborhood in the beds.

Planning

I have only 4 acres. Under trees and vegetables. In winter I compose detailed plan plantings, counting how much and where to plant. And in the spring, just know to work!

Crop rotation

My beds are permanent, 90 cm wide. Row spacing is 40 cm. Slightly, about 5 cm deepened. I do not dig the aisle. I only fertilize the beds. I water from a hose, and while the water is flowing, I do other things: I loosen or mulch. After all, work on earth - hard work. I have been retired for four years now. And over the years, digging into the ground becomes harder and harder.

My beds are numbered. And knowing their size, I calculate how many plants need to be planted, which ones, I figure out how much I will harvest approximately. I don't have anywhere else to store it.

I try to land at the end of April, placing arches and using covering material or film. I keep crop rotation.

I change every 3 years, and there is a separate school for mustaches.

After harvesting, as soon as the bed is free, I sow green manure: mustard, alfalfa, rye, oats, legumes (mostly peas). To disinfect the soil, I bury calendula and marigolds.

No. p / p	1st year	It is not recommended to plant in the same place during:
1	Tomatoes, potatoes	3-4 years
2	Cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin	2 years
3	Cabbage, radish, radish, turnip	4 years
4	Beets, carrots, spinach	1 year
5	Onion garlic	2 years
6	Salad	2-3 years
7	Peas, beans	Can be annually

Neighborhood of plants

Like humans, plants have friends and enemies. I watched them for a long time and made a table (see Table 2).

	A tomato	cucumbers	Cabbage	Pepper	Potato	Radish	Carrot	Beet
eggplant					+
A tomato	+		+			+	+	+
Cucumber		+	+			+		+
Cabbage		+	+		+			+
Pepper	+	+	+				+
Potato		+			+	+	+	+
Beet	+	+	+					+
Carrot	+	+				+	+
Salads
Garlic	+	+					+	+
beans

I love all flowers very much. I have them everywhere: by a small pond, along the paths, under the trees. And about 20 kinds medicinal herbs. I even found and planted burdock! I would like to have everything on the site. Although dense plantings are harder to handle, the labor expended is more than paid off. My plants are fine. They seem to be happy and feel great in my area. Me too. Thank you mother earth.

P.S. When drawing up a garden plan, you need to pay attention to what year after manure is applied, which crops can be grown. Because, for example, root crops after fresh manure will be crooked, tasteless, ugly.

Alternation and proximity of plants - the opinions of professionals and gardeners

Rotation of crops

The annual change of planting site is called fruit change, crop rotation. Systematic rotation of crops prevents the occurrence of soil fatigue, the one-sided use of nutrients, the transmission of diseases and the spread of pests hibernating in the soil. Therefore, you should plan vegetable plantings in advance, before spring work has to begin.

In a word, it is impossible to grow one after another varieties of vegetables of the same family in the same garden. So it will be possible to avoid the defeat of diseases that may lurk in the soil.

Also, vegetables that actively consume nutrients should not be grown in a row from year to year in the same garden. Otherwise, the soil will be depleted and there will be a lack of nutrients. According to their nutritional requirements, vegetable varieties are divided into three groups.

Strong consumers are varieties of vegetables with high nutrient requirements: chicory, potatoes, almost all types and varieties of cabbage, pumpkins, New Zealand spinach, rhubarb, celery, asparagus, zucchini, sunflower, etc.

Average consumers are varieties of vegetables with moderate nutrient requirements: eggplant, endive, cucumber, kohlrabi, chard, horseradish, chives, paprika, radish, red beetroot, goat, spinach, string beans and tomatoes .

Weak consumers are the least demanding. These include bush beans, peas, fennel, head lettuce, radishes, onion, most greenery and flowers. This division only gives a general idea of ​​the nutrient requirements of vegetables. Thus, lettuce is sometimes classified as an average consumer, while cucumbers are classified as strong.

The ideal rotation of crops is that, after strong consumers, medium consumers are planted in the second year, weak consumers in the third, and strong consumers again in the fourth year after strong fertilization of the soil.

Of course, in practice it is not always possible to strictly observe this sequence. If successive plantings of strong consumers cannot be avoided, the increased nutrient intake can be compensated by applying a double dose of compost and growing green manure. But the principle of crop rotation implies that plants feed on what their predecessors leave them.

: Preparations for the treatment of grapes Vine growers know ...: Table of preparations for the fight against ...

: Growing seedlings - planting dates ...

A good harvest from the beds is the pride of any summer resident. Abundant fruiting provides supplies for the winter and inspires the cultivation of a particular plant. Garden crops require special treatment and proper distribution of nutrients. Beginning growers may not have considered vegetable rotation, while their experienced colleagues, having tried it once, practice this system annually.

What is the secret of gardening?

For many lovers of growing vegetables on the ground, the question often arose why some neighbors in a small area from year to year have a better harvest, and the plants almost never get sick, while others, despite the impressive size of the land allotment, things are worse. .

The bottom line is that not every summer resident, due to employment or other circumstances, thinks about what happens in the beds during the life of the crop he has planted. It turns out that some of the plantings actively deplete the soil, while others, on the contrary, enrich it with lost nutrients. Proper organization vegetable crops will not only increase the yield, but also improve fertile layer soil.

Crop rotation of vegetables is a competent annual replacement of some plants by others.

The right predecessors - those plants that grew in the beds last year, ensure the active timely development of the followers and guarantee the summer resident a good harvest. Professionals have compiled more than one table and a scheme for the correct replacement of garden crops.

Is vegetable "castling" really necessary?

Reasons to use available charts and tips for your suburban area several. These include:

• soil depletion;
• toxins;
• illness.

Any plant requires certain conditions during planting and nutrients during growth and development. If from year to year on the same plot to grow the same tomatoes, then soon the soil will be depleted, and the crop will fall. It is not recommended to plant related crops in a permanent place, as they absorb the same substances and also actively "devastate" the black soil.

The depletion zone also depends on where it is located. root system garden dwellers. For example, cucumbers actively absorb substances that are in the upper layers of the soil, but watermelon "eats" what lies at a relatively great depth, since it has a fairly long main root.

Who eats and how much?

Most deplete the landing site:

• cabbage (including cauliflower);
• carrot;
• beet.

In second place in terms of "eating" the soil are the beds:

• eggplant;
• zucchini;
• Luke;
• pepper (sweet and bitter);
• tomatoes;
• garlic.

They consume everything they need, but leave a decent supply of nutrients in the soil:

• cucumber (including momordica);
• radish (radish);
• lettuce crops.

However, there are also plants that enrich depleted beds with missing elements. Siderates include:

• legumes;
• cereals.

The plant returns to the planting site 52 months after the first planting in the garden.

Own poisons and pests

Crop rotation of vegetables in the garden is also necessary in order to avoid poisoning green spaces with their own toxins that accumulate in the ground when the crop is planted every season in the same place. The longer representatives of the same family grow in the garden, the greater the amount of "waste" accumulates in the soil.

Beets and spinach do not like to grow in a permanent place, as these crops are very susceptible to their own "excretions". But leeks, beans, peas, pumpkin or corn calmly endure the same landing site. Living from year to year on the same bed, plants acquire pests that actively multiply and infect the soil cover. In this case, planted on permanent place potatoes will increasingly be attacked colorado potato beetle, and greens - leaf nematodes.

Are there rules for a good harvest?

In order for garden beds to please with an excellent harvest, and the plants do not get sick, experts recommend adhering to several rules for alternating green spaces. The requirements are quite simple:

• take into account nutritional needs;
• avoid illness;
• do not poison plants with their own toxic poisons.

A well-known rule of botany says that the longer the culture does not return to its original place of growth, the better. If before that the site was preceded by plants that absorb vitamins from the surface layers of the soil, then next year the garden bed should be populated with green inhabitants with deep roots, and vice versa.

Changing places

• the first row (the one closer to the fence, as the plants on it will be tall): eggplant, zucchini, cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin;
• second row: potatoes, carrots, beets, radishes;
• third: peas, chickpeas, beans;
• fourth: all types of cabbage, lettuce-spinach crops, herbs, onions, garlic.

In the second year of disembarkation fruit plants from garden No1, such as tomatoes, cucumbers or peppers, from the 1st line are moved to the fourth. Bed No2 from the first year, where potatoes and carrots bore fruit, automatically becomes the 1st, and all other rows go down one level.

In the third year of the formation of the garden, radishes, carrots or potatoes go to the last fourth row, and representatives of legume family green manure.

The rule of the best predecessor, that is, the crop that enriched the soil or left nutrients for the next receiver, will be considered on the most popular plants of gardeners in our country. So, for example, after cabbage on the selected square meters you can "settle" cucumbers, tomatoes or beans. Pimply friends should be replaced with garlic, beans, lettuce-spinach crops and herbs, and carrots or potatoes are quietly planted in place of tomatoes.

But what if the area is too small?

Despite all the recommendations, it often happens that it is not possible to adhere to them thoroughly, since the site is too small or there is a preference and need for only one or a few vegetable crops. In this case, it is recommended to regularly fertilize the planting areas in the autumn.

The most common fertilizer in our latitudes is manure. It is rich in nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. It is recommended to introduce it into the soil once every few years, since during the year of fruiting the plants consume not all vitamins, but only a part (from 30 to 50%). Great solution will plant winter green manure such as wheat or rye after harvesting the site. These grains will restore the fertile layer of the earth and prepare it for spring planting garden crops.

If this is not possible, then when planting vegetables, it is worth adding an enriching plant to it, such as beans or pumpkin. After harvesting, you can leave the tops and leaves of some representatives of the flora, as they also contain a number of nutrients that, when rotting, will enter the soil and enrich it. For example, melon leaves and buckwheat contain calcium, tobacco is rich in potassium, and Datura blooming with white gramophones is phosphorus.

Flowers are excellent green manure and protectors from small pests. By planting Chernobrivtsy or calendula along the edge of the beds, you can not only decorate the site, but also scare away nematodes or aphids. Having mastered the rules for crop rotation of vegetables in the garden, the summer resident will be convinced that the equipment is operating and actively working for the benefit of the crop. Abundant fruiting of healthy plants will delight the owner for more than one year.

Every summer resident knows well that if the same crops are planted in the same place for several years in a row, then even under seemingly identical care conditions, they become more and more frail every year and bear fruit worse and worse. This phenomenon is caused by soil depletion, which in turn is explained by a number of factors.

The importance of proper crop planning

The first is that pathogens and all kinds of pests accumulate in the soil. For example, potatoes are known to be a favorite delicacy. Colorado beetles. If the plantation of this crop does not change its location for several years, the pest does not need to migrate in search of food - after wintering, it immediately finds itself in favorable conditions for itself and immediately begins to destroy the plant. In addition to the Colorado potato beetle, potato plantings contribute to the accumulation of late blight pathogens in the soil, as well as the larvae of click beetles and moths.

With other cultures, the situation develops in the same way. On a plot planted with the same crop, the number of those pests will increase from year to year, which are dangerous specifically for her and, accordingly, it will be more and more difficult for the plant to withstand such an invasion. Cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, beans, lettuce are especially affected by this factor.
The second is to increase concentration. harmful substances secreted by the roots of a particular culture (the so-called colins) and are toxic to this culture itself. Some plants are very sensitive to the effects of such poisons (for example, beets and spinach), others are more resistant (carrots, pumpkin, radishes, parsley), others are almost unresponsive to colins (beans, leeks, corn). In addition, different plants emit different amounts of such harmful substances, for example, there are especially many of them in the soil after cucumbers, carrots and cabbage.

The third is the depletion of the supply of nutrients in the soil. Each culture has its own set of nutrients necessary for normal development. It is clear that such a plant will try to extract them from the soil. For example, if cabbage is in great need of potassium, then after planting this element in the soil, it will remain less and less, while, say, after radish, potassium reserves are not depleted so rapidly.

It is easy to understand that the situation can be corrected by correctly alternating the crops planted on the site from year to year. This procedure is called crop rotation and is a whole science. However, if there is no time to engage in complex theoretical preparation, it is enough to learn a few fundamental rules, and the harvest on your site will always be equally plentiful.

Rule #1

One after another, not only the same crop, but also close relatives (representatives of the same species) cannot be planted for several years in a row, since they, as a rule, have common pests, react in the same way to toxins and consume the same composition of microelements.

Rule #2

The average time the land needs to rest after a certain crop is two years(one year is usually not enough for a full recovery), but for some plants this period is much longer. So, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, beets should not return to their original place for at least 4 years, and in relation to cabbage it is better to withstand all 7 years! These periods can be increased, but it is undesirable to reduce.

Rule #3

Plants tend not only to consume trace elements from the soil, but also to enrich it with certain useful substances and properties. That's why correct alternation crops can allow not only to preserve the elements especially necessary for the plant, but also to improve the composition and structure of the soil without additional procedures. For example, legumes loosen the soil and enrich it with many minerals. Melon and buckwheat saturate the soil with calcium, dope grass with phosphorus, tobacco with potassium, stinging nettle- iron. Knowing these simple rules and taking into account the need various kinds crops in certain trace elements, it is easy to plan crops for several years in advance. By the way, these properties of the listed crops can be used more fully by laying them in compost after harvesting.

The same rule applies to pests. There are cultures that are not only resistant to certain diseases, but also repel their pathogens. For example, aphids do not tolerate plants such as garlic or tobacco. Thyme is afraid of the Colorado potato beetle. If you plant such orderlies after plants, affected these pests are good opportunity expel them from the site, freeing it for planting in subsequent years.

Rule #4

The need of plants for nutrients is not the same. It is impossible to plant crops that are too demanding on the composition of the soil one after another. It is more correct to plant legumes on the garden after such a crop or apply the necessary layer of fertilizer.

Thus, the correct alternation of crops will avoid one-sided depletion of the same elements in the soil, an increase in the concentration of certain types of pests and pathogenic bacteria in it, as well as an uneven load on the soil of the same root system of plants.

Another reason that makes it necessary to rotate crops on the site is weed control. There are plants that are sensitive to such a neighborhood (for example, garlic, onions, carrots, parsley, parsnips), they are best planted after those crops that leave behind a minimum amount of weeds. These plants include tomatoes, peas, potatoes, cabbage.

What to plant after

So, we found out that the rotation of crops is a necessary and quite economical technique that allows you to maintain soil fertility and ensure uniform high yield. But since the need different cultures in trace elements, fertilizers and other conditions is different, knowledge general rules and principles does not always allow you to correctly determine which plants in which sequence to alternate on your site.

Did you know? There are two simple rules for scheduling landings. First, you should not alternate representatives of the same family. For example, both tomatoes and potatoes are nightshade; both carrots and dill are umbrella plants. Secondly, the plants in which it is eaten should be alternated with each other. top part, with those where the root is valuable (“tops and roots”). It must be understood that this is a rather primitive rule, and it should be used only if more accurate information could not be found for one reason or another.

What then to plant in the beds can be found in the numerous tables developed by agronomists and amateurs. For those who do not want to study theory and are looking for simple answers to questions on specific crops - below are some tips on which vegetables can be planted after which.

What can be planted after cabbage

Cabbage is exposed to many pests and diseases, therefore, answering the question of what to plant after cabbage next year, any gardener will say with confidence: just not cabbage, even if we are talking about other types of it! This is the worst option imaginable, but if there is no other way, the soil must be very well fertilized with compost.

Cabbage as a predecessor is not suitable for crops such as radish, rutabaga and turnips, since these plants are favorite food for the same pests.

It is ideal to plant onions or garlic after cabbage. Carrots, celery, potatoes, beets, cucumbers, tomatoes are also allowed. In addition, cabbage gets along well with these vegetables in the neighborhood, since in this case it is less damaged by diseases and harmful insects. But next to tomatoes, beans, parsley and tomatoes, cabbage, on the contrary, should not be planted.
Potatoes, radishes, cucumbers, carrots, peas, onions, garlic, and annual herbs are considered good predecessors of cabbage.

What to plant after garlic

Garlic, as well as onions, is not recommended to be planted for a long time in the same place, and also to alternate with each other. What can be planted after garlic in the garden is potatoes, especially early ripe ones. Tomatoes, cucumbers, legumes, beets or cabbage are also acceptable options.

But it is best to plant annual herbs after garlic and onions, which are intended to restore the soil for later use, replenish its mineral reserve and destroy weeds. Mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, rye, and rapeseed do well with this role.

What to plant after cucumbers

Cucumbers are much more demanding on the composition of the soil than many other crops. The soil before planting is usually especially carefully fertilized with both organic matter and mineral supplements. It follows that planting after cucumbers next year should be something less picky. For example, cabbage is absolutely not suitable for these purposes, which also needs fertile soil. They feel good in the area where cucumbers grew, various root crops - beets, radishes, turnips, carrots, parsley, celery. In order to improve the composition of the soil after cucumbers, legumes can be planted and only after that other vegetable crops can be used, for example, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, lettuce.

Important! The soil is fertile not only due to the presence in it of a certain set of trace elements. Necessary condition is also the creation natural complex all kinds of microorganisms and various types of organic substances. Therefore, the big mistake is the confidence among summer residents that it is possible to restore depleted soil by thoughtlessly dumping a bucket of compost on the bed and watering it from above with complex mineral fertilizer purchased at the nearest supermarket.

What to plant after strawberries

Strawberries tend to deplete the soil very much, so immediately after transplanting (and it is better to do this once every four years), the bed where it grew must be carefully fed with mineral and organic fertilizers. It is better to do this right from the fall, having thoroughly dug up the soil after adding additives to it.

Strawberries consume especially a lot of nitrogen, so it is best to plant beans, peas and other legumes after it - they, as mentioned, enrich the soil with this element.

The antifungal and volatile properties of garlic make it a good helper for cleaning the soil from pests left in it after strawberries. Simultaneously with garlic, parsley, celery and other fragrant greens can also be planted here to drive slugs out of the garden.

Actually, on this planting options for the next year after strawberries are limited. But after the above crops, you can plant any vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, pumpkin, etc.

Important! Raspberries and strawberries should not be alternated with each other, as these plants have similar pests.

It is good to arrange a flower garden on the site of the former strawberry garden. Perennial peonies, daffodils, tulips and violets will help the soil recover from depleted berries.

What to plant after potatoes

Potatoes, unlike strawberries, consume a lot of potassium and phosphorus, so the soil after harvesting the tubers lacks these elements. You can make up for the loss with mineral fertilizers, or you can plant annual herbs that generate potassium and phosphorus after themselves. This role can be performed by dope grass, mustard, oats, peas, rape, phacelia.

If it is not possible to completely free the site after potatoes for a whole year, you can plant a pumpkin on it. Other crops require pre-application mineral fertilizers to restore soil fertility. However, as mentioned above, tomatoes, eggplants and other nightshade crops cannot be planted after potatoes. The same applies to pepper.

Successfully make the same pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage, onions as predecessors of potatoes.

What to plant after tomatoes

We decided that eggplant, potatoes and peppers should not be planted after tomatoes. As with other cultures, after tomatoes, it is ideal to plant annuals that will fill the soil with the missing elements. If there is no opportunity for such luxury, it does not matter! Peas, beans and other legumes will help make up for the lack of nitrogen in the soil, cabbage will also feel good in the garden where tomatoes grew, since the pests of these crops are different. There are no contraindications for planting cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, carrots, beets, green salads, onions, garlic. In addition, tomatoes are that little, after which carrots can be planted.

What to plant after beets

The choice of what can be planted after beets for the next year is quite large. Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades are suitable for these purposes, however, before such a planting, the soil must be well fed with humus or peat. You can also plant garlic and onions. good option is the carrot. By the way, the predecessors of carrots in the garden, in addition to beets and the tomatoes mentioned above, are also cucumbers, onions, garlic and cabbage.

The above cultures work in reverse order, that is, in relation to after which it is better to plant beets. To this list, you can add cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes, lettuce, greens - parsley, dill, celery.

What can be planted after pepper

The root system of sweet pepper is located in the upper layers of the soil, so it is best to plant crops with deeper roots after it. It can be root crops (radishes, radishes, beets, carrots), except for potatoes, as well as onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and greens.

You can not plant any crops of the nightshade family after pepper. Myself Bell pepper can be planted after peas, zucchini, pumpkin, cabbage, beets, celery.

What can be planted after peas

Peas, as mentioned above, are a good predecessor for so many crops. Thus, the ability of this plant to enrich the soil with nitrogen will especially favorably affect the yield of potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, carrots, radishes, cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkins, melons, as well as various types of cabbage.

However, peas have one unpleasant feature: they are very susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot, especially under conditions high humidity. Therefore, if a culture affected by such an ailment grew on the site, this place in next year do not plant peas or other legumes. Spores of such diseases can persist in the soil for 5-6 years, so during this period it is better to use the bed for crops less susceptible to these diseases.

What to plant then: a table of predecessors of vegetable crops when planting

With regard to desirable and undesirable predecessors of specific vegetable crops, there are a huge number of general and specific rules, summarized for clarity in various tables. These can be consulted whenever appropriate rotations are planned.

For example, you can group crop rotation rules as follows:

culture	Good predecessor	Possible precursor	Bad predecessor
Legumes, cucumbers, cabbage	Carrots, beets, onions	Solanaceae (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers)
Garlic, onion	Potatoes, carrots, legumes, cucumbers	Cabbage, tomatoes, beets	Onion, garlic, pepper, physalis
tomatoes	Cabbage (especially cauliflower), carrots, onions, cucumbers, greens		Any nightshade, physalis
Pumpkin (cucumbers, zucchini, squash, pumpkin)	Legumes, nightshade (potatoes, tomatoes), cabbage, onions	Beets, greens	Any pumpkin
Legumes (peas, beans, beans)	Strawberries, cucumber, potatoes, cabbage,	tomatoes	perennial herbs
Carrot	Onion, cucumber	Radishes, beets, cabbage
Greenery	Cabbage, cucumbers	Legumes, potatoes, tomatoes, onions	Carrots, parsnips, celery
Eggplant	Legumes, turnip, swede, cucumber, cabbage, onion, gourds		Nightshade
Pepper	Turnip, carrot, cucumber, cabbage, swede, legumes,	Onion garlic	Solanaceae, pumpkin
Potato, cucumber, onion	Legumes, tomatoes	Carrot
Legumes, nightshade, onion, garlic	Lettuce, corn	Pumpkin, swede, carrot, turnip, radish, turnip

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Thus, referring to such tips, you can always clarify, after which, for example, plant onions or how to sow a garden bed on which tomatoes grew.

However, not only tables, but also firmly learned rules will help to correctly determine the predecessors of vegetables during planting.

Important! Categorically bad predecessors are: beets, radishes, turnips and radishes for cabbage (and vice versa); carrots, tomatoes and cabbage - for onions, beans - for carrots and cucumbers, carrots for cucumbers and beets.

But then you can plant carrots and other root crops, so this is after garlic or onions. Also, root crops grow well after greenery and vice versa.

Neighboring cultures

In addition to answering the question of what to plant after, it is equally important to know what to plant with what, that is, which crops can and cannot be planted side by side. The fact is that plants have an influence on each other, which can be both positive and negative. Knowing the basic rules, you can avoid mistakes and solve many problems that prevent a stable crop.

For example, as mentioned above, the root system of plants releases toxic substances that protect the crop from diseases and pests. At the same time, such poisons can harm neighboring plants, or, conversely, provide them with additional protection. So, the colins secreted by mustard have a beneficial effect on peas, carrots and garlic, but are poorly tolerated by cabbage. Knowing this feature, it is easy to determine with what peas can be planted and cabbage should not be planted.

What crops are best planted in the neighborhood

So, joint landings – important rule crop rotation, which allows optimal use of the limited space of the site, as well as improve crop yields.
For example, potatoes and beans are great neighbors. He protects her from such a pest as caryopsis, and she fills his need for nitrogen and repels the Colorado potato beetle. In addition to beans, it is useful to place cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, radish, dill, and lettuce next to potatoes. All these plants have a beneficial effect on the potato crop, removing excess moisture from the soil. And onions and garlic planted nearby protect potatoes from late blight.

By the way, garlic has a beneficial effect on many crops, so there are enough options with which to plant it. Strawberries are considered classics, as these plants are equally useful for each other: garlic protects capricious strawberries from diseases and pests, and the berry contributes to the formation more garlic cloves. The enzymes secreted by carrots have the same effect on the plant: under their influence, the garlic bulb becomes larger.

Did you know? If you plant garlic and horseradish next to each other, the amount of vitamin C increases in both.

From various diseases and pests (aphid, bear, Maybug), garlic saves not only vegetable crops, for example, tomatoes, beets, cucumbers, carrots, but also flowers - gladioli, carnations, roses, etc. But the garlic itself from dangerous for him onion fly can save calendula and chicory.

Dill and corn are something that can be planted next to cucumbers, carrots get along well with peas, peas themselves with potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants. Gourds are best planted separately.

Other rules regarding what to plant with what in the beds can be presented in the form of a table:

culture
beans	cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, radishes, beets, tomatoes, eggplants, gourds	peas, garlic, onion
peas	cabbage, lettuce, carrot, radish	beans, potatoes, garlic, onions, tomatoes
strawberries	garlic, onion, lettuce, radish
cucumbers	beans, garlic, cabbage, lettuce, celery, onion, greens	tomatoes, radishes, potatoes, zucchini
potato	beans, onions, garlic, cabbage, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, dill, lettuce	tomatoes, peas, sunflower
cabbage	peas, cucumbers, potatoes, lettuce, radishes, beets	garlic, onion, tomato
beet	cucumbers, lettuce	onion, cabbage
tomatoes	garlic, cabbage, lettuce, leek	peas, cucumbers, potatoes
onion	strawberries, cucumbers, lettuce, carrots, beets	beans, cabbage, tomatoes
pepper	cucumbers, kohlrabi	tomatoes, beans
zucchini	beans, beets, onions	cucumbers

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"Neighbours-enemies"

As can be seen from the above table, in addition to a successful neighborhood, there is also an extremely undesirable neighborhood. As a rule, plants "feud" due to the incompatibility of the substances they secrete. For example, black walnut has a depressing effect on most vegetables due to the juglone it releases. Vegetables are also not good for the neighborhood of wormwood. If you plant legumes and onions nearby, both will develop poorly. Literally all cultures feel oppressed with fennel, therefore given plant it is better to plant separately from others. Potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries are also poorly compatible.
Eggplants and tomatoes do not like the neighborhood of other nightshades; peppers and beets, cabbage and strawberries do not get along nearby.

Did you know? I wonder what is beautiful and loved by everyone conifer tree, like spruce, has an adverse effect on almost all trees, and this effect persists for decades after the spruce itself is cut down.

Sometimes it happens that plants have each other different effect depending on their number. As they say, there is medicine in a spoon, and poison in a cup. In this case, you can arrange the neighborhood of such a culture in small quantities, for example, along the edge of the garden. For example, such an experiment can be carried out with valerian, yarrow or nettle, planting them in small groups near vegetables.

Thus, it is important for any gardener to know what to plant next, and proper planning of crops during planting is a way to protect the soil from depletion and help plants naturally support each other for better growth and development.

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