Winter garlic under mulch. Planting winter garlic

I never grew garlic under a layer of foliage, but I grew potatoes under hay this year and the result pleased me, and it was very easy to care for: neither hilling nor weeding, only pulling out large weeds. Alas, I have already planted garlic, but perhaps this article will also seem interesting and useful to you. And why not try? At least on the edge of the garden? ..

In the autumn of 2011, having a dozen heads winter garlic and a couple of dozen bulbs collected from mature arrows, I decided to plant this seed material under a blanket of foliage, which I had manure in advance.
Of course, he planted it in undigged soil, after potatoes under straw. Potatoes on it were not bad. For seeds, new varieties for me - Rosamund, Krinitsa and Kyiv Svitanok. To a depth of 5 cm, I passed the ridge with a Fokine flat cutter. Across the beds with the same tool made grooves through 20-25cm. The seed material was soaked in a solution of Baikal EM-1. I planted it, deepening the bottom 4-5 cm from the surface, with a distance in a row of 8-9 cm. I laid it with a layer of foliage of 10-15 cm and on top with cabbage leaves, so that dry foliage would not be blown away much.
All. I forgot until mid-May, when it became a little scary that the garlic did not sprout, but on the "clean" beds it was already rushing with might and main. Moreover, the "clean" beds in our climate are still covered with polyethylene for the winter and are also insulated with sawdust. Rake the foliage in one row. Here he is, handsome! Not in a hurry. Everything has its time. At first, my garlic was stunted. Then came the summer, where the heat alternates with cold nights. Classic plantings were tirelessly watered and loosened by the owners of the ridges. I watered my garlic once in the form of a portion of a diluted infusion of herbs with Baikal EM-1.
Garlic grew, got fat and poured. Turned yellow a week and a half later. When "digging" the average size garlic was clearly higher than the "usual", which could not but rejoice.

Results.
Minimum care: not a single weeding (one-time pulling out of the quinoa along the edges), one watering, once added mulch, not a single loosening, not a single top dressing in the usual sense.
Good harvest.
The fertility of the soil is growing again.

Garlic has a high vitality, sprouting through thick layer sheet mulch.
To increase the yield, it is desirable to add sand directly to the planting area of \u200b\u200bcloves and bulbs.
The same technique will prevent frost from squeezing the bulbs to the surface (they are very small).
On poor soils, to stimulate the development of microflora, I recommend decomposing half-rotted manure or chicken droppings under the foliage. Yes, and not the poor. In no case do not bury.
Garlic under a thick blanket is comfortable both in winter and in spring and in the heat of summer.
Good luck everyone.

I'm not going to bend my back!

Therefore, I will describe in detail my method growing and planting winter garlic, which can be called so - for the lazy. And all because I don’t loosen the plantings, I don’t weed, and I don’t even water them, and I always get excellent crops. And I don’t dig up the ground before planting garlic - in the sense I don’t touch it at all.

AT last resort, if weeds have broken through on the bed chosen for planting, I loosen it a little with a flat cutter. And then I simply divide the heads into cloves, take each by the top and vertically press it into the ground to a depth corresponding to the length of the index finger. If the earth is too compacted, then at first everything is the same index finger I make indentations in it (naturally, it is better not to perform such a trick without a good rubberized glove).

The planting itself is carried out according to the 12 × 12 cm scheme, and first I plant teeth from the most selective heads, and on the plants that then rise from them, I then leave a few arrows to mark - proven and high-quality seed material grows here. Many will immediately tell me that I plant too often. I agree, but you forgot that I did not accidentally name my method of growing for the lazy.

And the whole secret is this: after planting, I cover the entire bed with a thick (10-12 cm) layer of fallen leaves.

I have two already quite large birch trees growing on my site. It is they who give me truly precious material, which is a guarantee good harvest and my peace of mind. To everyone who follows my example, I would like to separately advise you to be patient in the spring and not to remove the coat of leaves from the garlic. Yes, it will not be easy to break the old notions. Yes, garlic will rise a little later than usual. But you will be rewarded with a vengeance!

When I used this method for the first time, every morning, barely waking up, I immediately ran to the garden to check my plantings. I was terribly worried: the neighbors already had shoots of 15 cm, but mine was empty! But the garlic nevertheless made its way and then went into growth so much that it was impossible to keep track of it. Further - even better. The same neighbors loosen the earth without breathing, run around with watering cans, fight with weeds, fertilize, loosen again, water the beds again with water, but I just throw mowed grass on leaf litter from above ...

Another tip: if the weather is dry, the boundary should also be covered with mulch. As for the weeds, they are not able to break through the leaf litter. And the land under it is wet, loose, the worms are crazy, garlic, too, well, I'm for the company. I go to the garden only three or four times during the summer.

Harvesting is also a pleasure. Garlic is pulled out of the ground easily, without the help of a shovel or other devices (while earlier, when my grandmother grew it in the traditional way, harvesting turned into a real hard labor, especially in a dry summer). But I dry and store garlic in the same way as everyone else. In three years of growing garlic under a thick layer of mulch, not a single head rotted, although two summers were quite rainy.

Two crops + green manure

I hope my experience will be useful to those who have little time or health does not allow them to spend a lot of time in the “G” position and carry heavy watering cans with water. The only thing I urge those who dare to try this method of growing garlic to is not to try it on the whole garden at once. Take one away running meter for an experiment - suddenly your variety of garlic is more capricious, or the soil will let you down, or the weather will throw out some trick.

After all, what works great in one area may turn out to be a complete failure in another. Recently, by the way, I read that it is impossible to press the teeth into the ground. It’s strange, because my grandmother always planted it like that, and I do it too, and nothing bad happens to garlic. Maybe readers will clarify this issue?

And I also want to tell you about one curious experiment. I conducted it for only one season, but quite successfully. So, all in the same bed with garlic, about three weeks before harvesting, I sowed Minowashi daikon.

I made holes with a depth of 2 cm, with an interval of 40 cm, with my finger right between the heads and threw a couple of seeds into each. I didn’t fall asleep or water with anything (the weather was damp).

When shoots appeared, I removed the extra shoots and forgot about the daikon until September. After harvesting the garlic (and since I removed it without a shovel, the daikon, which by that time was still small, did not disturb or injure), I scattered some white mustard seeds on the mulch and stirred the mulch with a stick so that they would hide under it from voracious birds.

As a result, the daikon, sown before mustard, also did not suffer from its neighborhood and grew large and clean to the delight (in dry summer, probably would have suffered from a cruciferous flea, but I was lucky).

This is how I harvested garlic and daikon from one garden bed during the season, while spending a minimum of effort. Yes, and siderat managed to grow! And by next spring, the mulch and mustard (I didn’t remove it in the fall) will rot and improve the soil.

Mulching is an agricultural technique that consists in covering a layer of organic and inorganic materials cultivated crops. This is done in order to increase the yield and volume of fruits. It protects seeds and plants planted in the ground from frost, weeds and summer heat. Among gardeners and summer residents, such a type of mulching as garlic shelter is becoming more famous. various materials. From the article you will learn why garlic mulching is needed: advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages and disadvantages of mulching garlic

Advantages

Weeds grow slower

At weeds it just can't grow through a fairly dense layer of mulching material. It is necessary to weed the beds less often, and the garlic continues to grow as before.

Moisture stays on the surface longer

Garlic is a plant that loves fairly moist soil and needs to be watered about 4-5 times a week. If you cover it, then a layer of mulch will create an additional obstacle to the evaporation of moisture. This is very good for summer residents who do not live permanently in their country house.

Mulch will protect from frost

By mulching garlic, you can be sure that this will protect it from early spring frosts as the mulch will act as insulation. Harvest can be harvested early.

No need to loosen the soil often

The soil becomes more fertile

The earth becomes wet, the mulch protects it from the scorching rays of the sun and microorganisms actively multiply. The soil becomes more fertile and saturated with valuable nutrient compounds.

disadvantages

Don't Mulch During Rainy Times

Choose carefully

Mulch must be chosen carefully, as different types of mulch may or may not be suitable for certain crops.

Organic garlic mulching

Compost

By improving the structure of the soil, compost gives it substances for growth and development. The fertilizer contains live microorganisms and they fight harmful bacteria, thereby protecting the plant from various diseases. Such a fertilizer can protect garlic from any microorganism better than chemical additives. Good for tomatoes and roses. It keeps weeds from growing like leafy straw mulch. If weeds grow through such compost, they reach huge size. It is recommended to prevent the weed from germinating by laying a layer of about 3-5 cm of mowed grass on top or laying out a newspaper to limit light access.

Leaves

Recently, gardeners have learned to use tree leaves as mulch for plants with bulbs remaining in the ground for the winter, less often for garlic. This mulch is available to everyone.

Straw

Quite common mulching with straw of any crops. The main disadvantage of straw is the presence of seeds of a large number of weeds in it. Straw decomposes for a long time and due to this it is excellent material good for garlic, due to the fact that it is planted early in the spring. Straw should be covered with about 11-12 centimeters and, caking, it will settle up to 5-6 centimeters. As the mulch settles, more must be added.

For garlic, mustard and phacelia are the best sideratomi. The siderator is sown before the main crop is planted.

siderates

For garlic, mustard and phacelia are the best sideratomi. In the spring, before planting garlic, sow a green manure. After warming up the soil, you can plant the garlic itself. Mustard will protect the plant by darkening seedlings early and creating conditions for growth. As the garlic grows, the siderator is removed and mulching can be carried out. Most often straw is used. It will not allow weeds to germinate and retain water in the soil.

The main thing is that the siderator should not be used immediately after it has been removed from the ground. Dry for 24 hours and the straw will not rot and odors due to fungi will not appear.

cut grass

Freshly cut grass contains many essential nutrients, and most of all nitrogen. It is not recommended to mulch with grass that has been treated with herbicides or inseminated with weeds. With this mulch, you can improve the soil with organic matter, mainly consisting of sand. Most best option the use of such mulch is for heat-loving plants - peppers, tomatoes, eggplants. Thanks to the above qualities, mowed grass helps to increase the yield.

Needles

It must be used with caution, as it can cause changes in the acid-base balance of the soil. It should be used mainly for crops that prefer acidic soil. You can give the following recommendations: use the needles of pine or larch trees due to the fact that it rots more slowly than others. Only rotted needles are used. When choosing such a mulching material, you need to know that it provides additional warmth during spring frosts and inhibits the growth of weeds.

Peat is an ideal covering material for garlic. For him, I use dry crushed peat.

Peat

Peat mulch is used very often for tomatoes or raspberries. The ground beneath it becomes loose and allows plants with large roots to develop well. For garlic, dry crushed peat is used.

Sawdust

Another example of a good garlic mulch is sawdust.

Sawdust, like needles, is used for plants that prefer an acidic pH. Plus, you don't have to buy it. Organisms that use nitrogen for their growth and development live in them. Therefore, there is an opinion that if you mulch with sawdust, then the plant will not have enough nitrogen. In fact, if the sawdust is sprinkled with earth a little, these microorganisms will not be able to use nitrogen. Mulch will help to build up the black soil, since when it decomposes, micro and macro elements appear.

sawdust still and one of the best options mulch for garlic. A layer of mulch should be done about 5-7 cm.

Don't use too much fresh sawdust because they give a large number of pitches, wait a bit and it will air out.

In general, we can say that dry humus, dry crushed peat, semi-decomposed straw manure, crushed partially decomposed straw, partially composted leaves (excluding oak leaves), sawdust (it is recommended to mix with pine needles) can be used to mulch garlic. Good material also cut and dried grass. Any mulch does not affect the growth of garlic.

Not suitable for mulch fresh manure, fresh peat and straw, fresh harvest residues, fallen leaves, stems with leaves, fresh straw.

Inorganic garlic mulching

Mulching film is a method that is becoming more and more popular. For garlic, transparent is best.

Increasingly, specialists and amateurs began to use a special mulching film. It comes in white, black and transparent. All types have their purpose.

Black film is most often used for beds with strawberries and strawberries, cutting holes for the bushes themselves. The soil becomes warm faster, weeds practically do not grow due to the lack of light, and the soil is always moist. Berries become ripe in a shorter time. At the onset of a summer drought, the film should be removed due to the fact that the soil dries too quickly. Most often used by enterprises and farms. Gardeners and summer residents are limited to organic types of mulch.

A transparent film is often used for garlic due to the fact that weeds do not grow and the soil becomes warm faster. Warming up the ground is especially important for garlic, as it is planted in early spring.

White films are used for mulching thermophilic crops because it protects the soil from overheating, reflects bright light and prevents moisture from evaporating too quickly. Air passes through it with ease, but weeds, after all, do not grow.

Covering material for garlic

Spunbond is a polymeric covering material. Serves about four years.
Agrospan for garlic is a material made from a molten polymer substance and a stabilizer based on UV rays.
Lutrasil is light and durable. Invented by German specialists. You can see on sale white and black.

These materials are very similar in appearance. It is difficult for young gardeners to choose any particular option.

How to mulch, how to water, mistakes when using mulch

The best period for mulching garlic is the end of May - the beginning of June, then the soil is warm and fungi will not germinate, especially when rainy weather sets in for a long time. It does not allow heat to pass through, which is bad for heat-loving plants. Mulching will prevent the earth from overheating and drying out will help to keep a favorable level. temperature regime at the root system of the plant.

In order for air to circulate, it is necessary to leave space between the mulch and the plant. It is important to observe this condition when mulching the near-stem space.

Lay a layer of mulch after the rain stops. Loosen the bed before starting the process. Mulching is usually recommended in a layer of 4 to 8 centimeters.

Organic mulch can be left over the winter. It creates a favorable microflora and reproduces well in it. earthworms. They create humus in the soil.

Mulching as an option on the lawn mower

Lawn mowers that have a mulching function collect the grass, grind it inside themselves and throw it onto the lawn. This technology using a lawn mower makes it possible not to buy expensive fertilizers, but to use improvised materials, using mulch as humus, which in itself is a good compost.

There are two main types of units: electric and gasoline-powered. Gasoline is divided into wired and wireless, and gasoline is divided into two-pin and four-pin.

Model Bison ZKKE - 43 - 1600

Lawn mower with plastic case operating in two modes

Lawn mower with body made of plastic materials and works in 2 modes. The modes are as follows - the grass is crushed and thrown out of itself, and also collects it in a special tank. The car is quite expensive and not everyone can afford it. It costs about 14 thousand rubles.

Model Enkor - GKBS 5.0/515603

Petrol lawnmower. Very convenient to use

What fertilizers can be used when mulching

Sawdust can be used not only as mulch, but also as a fertilizer. To do this, they need to be subjected to certain processing. They enrich the soil with organic matter. It is necessary to make sawdust earlier in the spring, and not too late, as some publications recommend. During the winter they will freeze and be wet, but they will not rot and turn into humus.

But remember, it is impossible to make clean sawdust as a fertilizer at all. This is a very common gardening mistake.

Mulching in spring, summer, autumn, winter (features for different seasons)

The most common mulching option for garlic is in early spring, just after the soil has thawed sufficiently. If you mulch the plant earlier, then the covering material will keep the cold at the roots.

If you mulch garlic in the fall, then it will overwinter very well, especially in middle lane Russia. In conditions Far East and Eastern Siberia, it is not worth mulching garlic for the winter. As an autumn mulch, pine sawdust is very suitable, they will also protect against diseases and pests.

Garlic is divided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter gives big harvest but poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller crop, but lasts until next year.

plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter appearance? From the middle of the bulb winter crop a rigid rod sticks out - the rest of the arrow. The spring one does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The teeth of the winter bulb are large and form one layer. The cloves of a spring bulb are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is different dates landing. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - in autumn. And now about the main thing - about the rules of landing.

Video about growing garlic

The technology of growing garlic is constantly being improved. So there were several landing methods, which we will now tell you about.

Method number 1 - traditional

A place is allocated for culture from under early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a lowland and flooded with melt water in the spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is introduced, a shovel is dug onto a bayonet and furrows are made every 25 cm. Uncleaned teeth are planted every 10-12 cm. Plantings are closed, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

Double planting garlic is relevant for small plots. The main secret is that garlic is planted in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of teeth at a depth of 11-12 cm. Someone will say - deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

We fall asleep with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Between the teeth we make a distance of 10-15 cm, between the grooves - 25 cm. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one tooth over the other. No one interferes with anyone, everything is enough for everyone.

Method number 3 - sowing

You can also not stick teeth into the ground, but sow, that is, lay them on a barrel or just throw them in rows. The only thing that may confuse you is the garlic head lying on its side and the crooked neck. But this does not affect the quality of products, the taste and size of the bulb.

Pictured is planting garlic

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring they immediately begin to grow. The tooth that turned out to be lower is more favorable conditions. He is deeper and he is warmer there. He developed better root system. And the one that is higher warms up faster in the spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are harvested when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If they are left, then the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes on food, as bulbils form on it, but it’s worth leaving a few. Garlic arrows will show you when it's ready to be harvested. The arrows are broken out not when they just appeared from the stem, but when they made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises in all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Someone prefers to plant a bulb 2-3 weeks before the ground freezes. The tooth manages to take root and in the spring willingly starts growing. But the early August and September planting is considered not correct, since the tips of the feather begin to turn yellow early in the plant. We will not convince you of the correctness or incorrectness of a particular method. We will tell you about our interesting experience.

We planted garlic in three terms: August 20, September 20 and October 20. Most best harvest gave the August landing. He overwintered the best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted him early, he managed to take root well, gained strength and immediately drove him into growth in the spring. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It did not really take root, overwintered poorly and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing terrible happened. That's the way it should be. To check if the August planting is so effective, plant some of the teeth early, and some when it seems right to you, and then compare the results.

You ask why sprouted garlic does not freeze? When he gave roots, the composition changed cell sap it has more sugar in it. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup won't freeze, but the water will. That is, after germination, it passes into another state, it simply “falls asleep” for the winter.

top dressing

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvest is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then this should be done in May - June. Then he gains the weight of the bulb itself from the pen. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of biohumus or horse manure. It is desirable to mulch plantings with humus or straw cut into pieces.

The aisles are sprinkled with ash from pests. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil and protects the bulbs from overheating. You can not mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist of top dressing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

Another rule: for planting, choose the largest teeth. Let's plant small - small bulbs and get. If the tops turn yellow, then this indicates damage to the root system. Causes: gnawed roots by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, then there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions enough rain water. After all, the clove has already grown roots, it will draw moisture out of the soil, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile soil. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is added to the soil in the amount of 3-5 kg/m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between rows. The approximate depth of embedding garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method number 1 - traditional

Planted in spring in early spring on April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. Slices of each size are preferably planted in separate grooves. Care consists in regular loosening of row-spacings, watering and removal of weeds. If the plantings are mulched, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method number 2 - sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the onions are disassembled into slices, soaked for 3 hours in water at room temperature, taken out to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the teeth are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed, as well as winter plants, with infusion of mullein, biohumus or horse manure. From inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 Matchbox on a bucket of water when shoots appear, then after 10 days and a third time at the end of June. From pests in the aisles, ash is scattered.

Spring bulbs are harvested during the mass drying of the feather of the lower tier of the plant in the third decade of August - the first decade of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row for drying under a canopy. The tops must be completely dry. Do not rush to cut the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut off, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, like potatoes. When propagated by teeth, diseases gradually accumulate in the culture, the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time garlic is renewed from bulbs (air). In the first year, single teeth are obtained from the air. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. Garlic turns out to be healthy and you don’t have to run around looking planting material especially since it is quite expensive.

Photograph of garlic

Bulbs are taken from plants in which the arrow was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn into the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken out, put in a dry place for ripening. Bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm are taken for landing.

Method number 1 - traditional

Bulbs are sown in the first days of October. Humus 3-4 kg per 1 m 2 is introduced into the soil, dug up. Make rows up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, every 3 cm air is laid out and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, care for crops is the same as for ordinary garlic. By the beginning of August, single-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug out when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting for a complete bow.

Method number 2 - direct

In the first year, single-toothed teeth are grown from air worms using the traditional method. In August, single teeth are not dug up, but left for the winter in the soil. next spring plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between rows should be 25 cm, and between single teeth in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing garlic and caring for it

Method number 3 - growing through winter

Bulbs are sown in the first half of June. Until then, they are stored unthreshed in the refrigerator. By the second decade of September, the plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick, pencil-thick stem. In October, winter plants harden and overwinter well. On the next year from them full-fledged bulbs develop.

We shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, and preferably a few, so that later you can compare the results and grow a huge crop, to your delight and your neighbors to envy.

Types of garlic: spring - planted in the spring, winter - in the fall. Spring garlic does not shoot, it has a soft neck, there are many flat cloves in the head. It is less productive than winter, but more stale. Winter garlic has large cloves arranged radially, like tangerine slices. It shoots and the arrows must be broken out to get larger heads.

Basic rules for growing large garlic

First rule: Plant only varietal garlic. Do not buy small ones on the market, because garlic has an unpleasant tendency to reduce the size of the cloves (degenerates).

Second rule: If you want to have large heads, plant large teeth and single teeth.

Third rule: Observe boarding times. When to plant winter? It all depends on the weather - on average, in the middle or end of September, so that powerful roots can form. And if a tooth meets the winter “beardless”, without roots, then no shelter will save it. Spring garlic should be planted in late April - early May, depending on the weather. Of course, if there is snow, then you should not plant it in very cold ground.

Fourth rule: Water the beds with biological preparations "Shine". In spring, winter garlic sprouts and may turn yellow, it lacks moisture when it is cold. nutrients are not digested, you can pour it with "Shine 1", it will accelerate the decomposition of nutrients and be sure to mulch. When watering with “Shine 1”, rooting is better, the heads of garlic are larger, the number of cloves is greater.

Rule 5: Clean up in time, otherwise the heads of garlic fall apart and are poorly stored, break out the arrows from the winter crop and leave only 3-4 pieces in the garden to determine readiness.

Preparing for planting spring garlic

In March or early April, disassemble the heads of garlic, sprinkle with water, wrap in a damp cloth, then wrap in cellophane and put in the refrigerator door so as not to freeze. Make sure that the cloth does not dry out, but is damp. There is no need for water to flow from it. By planting in May, he has a whole beard of roots. Do not cut the roots, plant carefully, without damaging, without bending. Water well when planting. How deep should spring garlic be planted? Depth not less than 10 cm, depending on what kind of earth, if very hard, then less, softer deeper. Garlic needs fertile, cool and moist soil. When you plant it shallow, it gets hot, lacks moisture, and the garlic grows small.
Winter garlic can be planted to a depth of more than 10 cm and mulched in autumn with a layer of grass, weeds more than 10 cm. In the spring, remove the mulch for quick germination of garlic.

Soil preparation

The soil is prepared loose, with humus, deep furrows are made and sprinkled with wood ash, which gives potassium and other elements, it is good to sprinkle with Shine 2, the bacteria in its composition will process the nutrients into a form convenient for plants.
Planting garlic Row spacing 20-25 cm, best between cloves 10-15 cm.
Then, teeth are pressed into the grooves in a zigzag, at a distance of at least 8 cm from each other. The grooves are sprinkled with compost or soil, if it is light.

Mulching

Winter garlic is immediately mulched from frost, and spring garlic can be allowed to sprout, then loosen carefully not deep once and mulch.
As a mulch for winter garlic, you can use not only ordinary materials (hay, straw, tree leaves, etc.), but also sunflower stems, corn, even tree branches. Coarse mulch will help snow retention and will play a dual role - it will retain more moisture and better cover the bed in winter. In the spring, coarse mulch must be removed from the garden before the garlic sprouts, so as not to damage the young brittle peaks. For any garlic, do not remove the fine mulch, but observe the seedlings. And only if it seems that the arrows are difficult to break through the mulch - remove it, and return it after germination. In any case, the garlic should be covered with mulch and the bed, then you do not need to disturb until the harvest itself. The roots of garlic can lie near the surface of the soil, so it is easy to damage them with a hoe.

summer care

Do not add garlic. Watering once every 7-10 days with preparations "Shine".
You can pour Biococktail: on a bucket of 20 granules "Ecoberin", 20 granules " healthy garden”, 1-2 tablespoons of the Shine 1 solution. Be sure to add mulch to keep the soil from drying out.
Infusions of herbs from barrels according to the recipe "Shine 3" (for 30 liters of infusion, fill the container 2/3 without compacting with chopped weeds, add 1.5 cups of old jam or sugar, 1 liter of bird droppings or mullein, 1/3 cup of chalk, 1 .5 cups wood ash and packaging "Shine 3". Fill up to 30 liters warm water and mix thoroughly. Cover with cling film and stir occasionally for 7-10 days. The resulting infusion should be used within 3-4 weeks. Use the rest of the infusion in the barrel as a starter for compost.

harvesting garlic

Do not be late with harvesting garlic. If you miss optimal time, then the heads can “fall apart”, their outer shells will burst and the keeping quality of garlic will sharply worsen.
Garlic Ripeness Test - Cut a head of garlic horizontally. If the cloves begin to separate from each other, and the distance between them has reached about 1.5 mm, the garlic is ready. For winter, leave a few plants with not broken arrows to collect bulbs. The arrows will first curl into a ring, then straighten out, balls with bulbs will pour on their tips, and as soon as the wrappers of these balls begin to burst, it's time for cleaning. In any case, it is better to remove the garlic a day earlier than two later.
The arrows of winter garlic must be broken out. In this case, a denser shell is formed in the garlic and the keeping quality improves, it grows larger.

Storage

After digging up the garlic, dry it (but not in the sun) and, without cutting the stem (including those with bulbs), hang it in the shade for several weeks so that the heads dry well and the nutrients from the stems partially flow into the bulbs . Then the stems can be cut, the bulbs removed and the garlic stored in a dry and cool place. The worst storage place is the refrigerator. Even with room temperature Garlic keeps better in a stocking than in a refrigerator.

Pay attention to this: